We insulate the walls from the inside. Internal wall insulation in the apartment in a dry way - the nuances that you did not know. Ways to insulate walls from the inside

Most of the constructed panel and brick houses did not provide for the insulation of facades. Concrete and brick have high density and low thermal insulation properties. The result is cold walls and uncomfortable temperatures. There are several ways to insulate from the inside, the main thing is to avoid the appearance of dampness.

Dew point - physics of the phenomenon

A cold wall is not the only drawback of panel or brick houses. Often dampness and accompanying fungus and mold appear on it. The best way struggle - wall insulation from the outside (this is also a requirement of SNiP), but this is not always possible. Therefore, you have to fight cold wall warming it from the inside. But there are pitfalls here.

Even if the cold wall was previously dry, then when it is insulated from the inside, dampness may appear. And the so-called dew point will be to blame.

The dew point is a conditional boundary at which the temperature of water vapor becomes equal to the temperature of condensate formation. It manifests itself, naturally, in the cold season. With proper design of the house (taking into account the characteristics of the region), it is approximately in the middle of the thickness of the facade of a material of uniform density.

If insulation is carried out from the outside, then the dew point shifts in the direction of decreasing density (that is, to the outer surface of the wall). When insulating from the inside, it moves inward, and condensate may appear on the surface of the main wall or inside the insulation.

And in order to assess the scale of possible damage, it is enough to say that as a result of the life of one person, about 4 liters of water evaporate per day (cooking, wet cleaning, personal hygiene, washing, etc.).

Features of cold wall insulation from the inside

There are several ways to prevent condensation on a wall insulated from the inside:

Creation of a layer of heat-insulating material with a vapor permeability lower than that of the facade material.
Warming with materials with minimal water absorption.
Application of ventilated facade technology (taking into account internal placement).

Liquid thermal insulation

polyurethane foam

PPU insulation meets all requirements for vapor barrier, water absorption and the absence of seams. Therefore, even if there is a dew point inside the layer, it will remain “conditional”, since there is no condensation in vapor-tight materials. It turns out from the side of the room a completely sealed heat-insulating layer.

The environmental friendliness of PPU after curing meets the requirements for residential premises. Harmful fumes are present only when the components are mixed during the spraying process - after polymerization, the structure of the material remains stable.

Thermal insulation is applied between the crate and sewn up with moisture-resistant sheet materials(GKL, OSB or plywood). In fact, it is like a large prefabricated sandwich panel.

The disadvantage of this method is the use of special equipment.

liquid ceramics

This is a relatively young heat-insulating material, the action of which is based on the use of two principles - the creation of a thin layer with high resistance to heat transfer and the reflection of heat towards the radiation source.

Of course, a thin heat-insulating layer cannot provide good thermal insulation This is an optional but essential factor. Although it gives a fairly high effect - the wall becomes much "warmer" to the touch.

The main task of reducing heat loss is performed by microscopic ceramic spheres that reflect infrared radiation.

According to the manufacturers, the effect of a 1.5 mm layer can be compared with thermal insulation with 5 cm thick foam plastic or 6.5 cm mineral wool.

Application method is the same as for acrylic paint(basic is the same). After polymerization, a dense and durable film is formed on the surface, and latex additives improve the waterproofing properties.

Roll thermal insulation

Penofol

Penofol is a combination of polyethylene foam with aluminum foil. This is a whole series of materials (including single-sided, double-sided, laminated, with an adhesive layer). Moreover, it can be used both in combination with other heat-insulating materials, and independently. By the way, penofol is popular for warming the bath from the inside, and there is much more steam there than in an ordinary residential area.

To insulate a cold wall, foam foam is used with one layer of foil (one-sided) and up to 5 mm thick.

In the case, as with liquid ceramics, the effect is achieved due to the low thermal conductivity of foamed polyethylene, as well as its low vapor permeability and high reflective properties of the foil (up to 97%).

But unlike seamless coatings complete sealing and prevention of cold bridges cannot be achieved. Consequently, condensation may form on the surface of the foil. Even the obligatory sealing of joints with adhesive aluminum foil will still leave gaps inside between adjacent sheets.

The method of combating the formation of condensate on the foil is traditional - a crate with a ventilated gap between the foam and the outer lining.

polyph

Another version of polyethylene foam, but already made in the form of a kind of wallpaper - there is a layer of paper on both sides. Polyfoam and is designed for gluing wallpaper on it.

Of course, its thermal insulation properties are not as high as those of penofol, but in order to make cold wall warm to the touch, they are quite enough.

In most cases, the insignificant thickness of the insulation does not lead to the dew point moving to the inner surface.

The disadvantage of this method is that only a dry wall is insulated.

Insulation with expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene (or extruded polystyrene foam) is glued to a prepared and leveled wall. Both materials have very low water absorption (especially extruded polystyrene foam), so the formation of condensate in the insulation layer is excluded. The main danger is its appearance on the surface of the insulated wall.

Therefore, it is best to glue sheets on special hydrophobic adhesive mixtures applied over the entire surface of the sheets. And to prevent the penetration of water vapor from the side of the room, treat the seams with sealant (you can also use foam plastic with a step or a tenon-groove connection).

Finishing can be done in two ways:

mesh reinforcement and plastering;
paneling according to load-bearing frame fixed to the floor, ceiling and adjoining walls (plasterboard false wall).

Warming with mineral wool

Mineral wool does not meet the requirements for vapor permeability and water absorption for insulation from the inside. But it can be used.

The main thing is to provide maximum protection from moist air from the side of the room and the weathering of water vapor from the insulation layer. That is, to make a ventilated facade, but in the reverse order: wall, gap, vapor-permeable membrane, mineral wool, vapor barrier film, decorative cladding indoors.

It is necessary to create a false wall at a distance of 2-3 cm from the main wall. And to weather the water vapor from below and above, make ventilation holes.

If it’s cold and uncomfortable in a house or apartment in cold weather, and you continue to pay huge sums for heating, then you should think about whether there is a reason why heat is not kept indoors. The simplest assumption is that heat escapes through the walls.

But internal insulation is usually carried out only in extreme cases, for example, when the authorities impose a ban on changing the facade. If there is a seam between buildings behind the wall, then external thermal insulation will also be impossible. Sometimes this approach cannot be implemented when there is an elevator shaft behind the wall or an unheated room to which there is no access.

Features of insulation from the inside

If you are faced with the question of how to insulate the walls brick house from the inside, then you must remember that the main problem in carrying out such work is the fact that the wall can begin to freeze even more. This results in a dew point shift as moisture begins to condense onto the surface of the wall. Condensation causes dampness, which destroys the materials and the finishing layer. All this contributes to the deterioration of the thermal insulation properties of the insulation, and the heat loss at the same time turns out to be even higher, high humidity is also added to this problem.

Brick walls are exposed to greater destruction. In order to avoid this, you should choose heaters, the vapor permeability of which is minimal, and there is no moisture absorption. During installation, there should be no joints and seams between the canvases through which condensed moisture could penetrate into the premises. These criteria do not fit:

liquid ceramics;
mineral wool;
drywall;
cork coating;
warm plaster.

The latter option can only be used for final stage. Moisture-absorbing fibrous and vapor-permeable materials are not suitable for thermal insulation of walls from the inside. It is better to refuse from expanded polystyrene, because it is rather difficult to achieve proper joining of the material with the walls without using a solution. The joints between the canvases will play an important role in reducing tightness.

What to consider before starting insulation

Before you insulate the wall from the inside with your own hands, you must make sure that it is as dry as possible. The insulation must have a minimum vapor permeability and high moisture resistance. The wall from must be protected by hydro and vapor barrier. The insulation layer should not have cracks, joints and gaps.

If you want to insulate the walls in the apartment from the inside in panel house, then as one of good decisions stands the construction of another wall inside the room. It should fit snugly with the outer one or be separated from it by an air gap. Sometimes a layer of thermal insulation is placed between these surfaces, which acts as a buffer. But such measures reduce the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe room to 7 m 3.

Material selection

Before starting work, you should ask yourself how to insulate the walls of the house from the inside. For example, polyurethane foam allows you to create a moisture-resistant barrier with high properties thermal insulation. The problem can only be expressed in the method of application. Initially, the material is a foamed liquid that quickly hardens. To form an even base and sufficient thickness, formwork should be installed, filling inner space parts. Using wireframes will not work. Elements of such a system made of metal or wood can also become sources of dampness.

After forming the surface of the insulating layer, it is necessary to install hydro- and vapor protection. For this, a plastic film is used, which is fixed to adjacent walls, floors and ceilings with the help of rails. Gluing is carried out with mastic or sealant.

Polyurethane foam is characterized by low strength and density. This indicates that subsequent finishing cladding and plastering will not be possible. To do this, it is necessary to erect drywall walls, which are erected on a frame and fixed on an adjacent wall, floor and ceiling. in this case, it will be located at the junction of polyurethane foam and the wall or in the thickness of the thermal insulation.

Insulation with a double wall

If you want to insulate a wall in an apartment from the inside, then you can use the technology " double wall". A warm floor will act as a thermal barrier. Installed on the surface of the wall heating elements. Heating can only be turned on in severe frosts in order to warm the inner surface of the wall and shift the dew point.

For normal finishing of the room, a second wall of drywall or brick is installed. The insulation is mounted on a false wall from the side of the opening. This option will save in severe frosts and eliminate destruction, as well as the formation of dampness. But you will spend a lot of money on electricity. This is due to the fact that you will heat not only the volume of air in the room, but also the street.

The use of penoplex

If you still have not decided how to insulate the walls of the house from the inside, then you can use polystyrene foam or foam plastic. Due to the fact that it does not meet the characteristics for such work, special attention must be paid to installation work. The material is smooth sheets of dense material. Joints will certainly form between them during the installation process. It will not be possible to completely get rid of them, so a layer of sealant will have to be applied to the ends.

The technology of applying the solution with separate cakes should be abandoned. This is due to the fact that as a result air chambers where condensation accumulates. Water in this case finds cracks to enter the room. The only option would be to apply glue to the entire sheet and tightly adhere the material to the wall over the entire area. Before applying the solution, it is necessary to use a needle roller, which processes the surface of the material. This will ensure the best penetration of the solution. This is especially true for the option with penoplex.

This mounting method will require wall alignment. It is impossible to use ordinary cement-sand mortar. It is better to use a mixture that forms a waterproof layer. The use of anchor fasteners should also be abandoned. This is due to the fact that leaky transitions will form in the places of their installation.

If you plan to use the mesh reinforcement method and will apply plaster over the foam, then the structure should be reinforced with profiles that are located between the insulation sheets and are fixed from above and below to the floor and ceiling.

Work procedure

If you decide to insulate the wall in the apartment from the inside, then after choosing a specific method of work, you must bring the surface into perfect condition. To do this, the old coating is removed from the base in the form of lining, decorative elements, paint and wallpaper. The plaster is also removed. You should see concrete slab or brickwork.

The surface should be cleaned of dust and dirt with a broom and a vacuum cleaner. Particular attention should be paid to places where the walls were especially damp. Before insulating the wall from the inside, it should be treated with an antiseptic and coated with a primer. After each operation, the base is left until dry.

Priming should be done with a deep penetrating compound. If you plan to use foam or heating elements, then the wall is plastered and leveled. In the process, you can use water repellents, ready-made mixtures for finishing pools and bathrooms. In this case, the method of plastering with the help of beacons is suitable. The technology is relevant if the magnitude of the differences is more than 10 mm.

The plaster layer should dry for several days. Only in this way will the material gain normal strength. This process should not be accelerated by heaters. The surface of the plaster is primed again. This step should be omitted for concrete walls that are level. In the case of them, you can seal the joints with a moisture-resistant mortar, mastic or sealant.

Warming process

Quite often, home craftsmen are faced with the question of how to insulate a wall from the inside. In each case, the technology will be different. Some of the details have been described above. After the installation of the thermal insulation layer, a drying period follows. Only then can you proceed with the installation of the second wall, where the finishing finishing layer will be applied like tiles, wallpaper, paint or cork.

For installation drywall boards you have to form a framework. Plates will be attached to the ceiling, floor and walls. A gap of 5 cm should be left between the thermal insulation and the wall. If you want to use high-density polystyrene foam, then you can limit yourself to applying reinforcing mesh and plastering. But the durability and the result will depend on the quality of the installation of the foam. The joints between the sheets must be coated with sealant, and the canvases are fixed on a uniformly thin layer of mortar.

Insulation of a corner apartment with mineral wool

If you were among those who wondered how to insulate corner wall from the inside, then you can use mineral wool as a material for work. It consists of natural fibers, is environmentally friendly and is made from rocks by melting them. Cloths of this thermal insulation have low weight, excellent sound insulation and low thermal conductivity. Mineral wool is ready to serve for quite a long time, and is installed on the wall between rails made of metal profiles or wood bars.

How to insulate a wall from the inside? This question is quite relevant for residents of corner apartments. When installing mineral wool on the walls you have to take care of waterproofing. This is important, because the moistened heat insulator loses its properties. Before installation, the walls are covered with a moisture-proof film. You can make a frame from wooden slats, the distance between which will be equal to the width of the insulation plate. From this value it is necessary to subtract about 2 cm.

After laying the mineral wool, a layer of vapor barrier or a superdiffusion membrane is then covered. Rails are stuffed onto the guides, which will create an air gap, which is necessary for moisture to evaporate from the superdiffusion membrane. Plasterboard or plywood is stuffed onto the rails. With mineral wool it is better to work with glasses and gloves, as well as a respirator.

Insulation of a corner apartment with foam

If you are concerned about the question of how to insulate a wall in a corner apartment from the inside, then for this you can also use foam. It is more common for the reason that it is easy to mount, and its cost is affordable. For an apartment, you can purchase polystyrene foam, which contains substances that prevent ignition. Before laying the slabs on a leveled wall, apply liquid waterproofing. Tile adhesive should be applied to the sheets of insulation. A comb spatula acts as a tool for this.

After filling the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe wall, a mounting grid is glued on top, which is covered with putty. Once dry, the surface can be wallpapered or painted. Before insulating a wall from the inside, you should consider what material to use. If foam or foam plastic is used, then fungus and mold can form between the moisture-proof layer and the wall. This also applies to foil penofol. This is due to the fact that the wall in the panel or brick house stops breathing, and in conditions of a cold circuit and access to moisture, it begins to become covered with condensate.

Insulation with drywall

If you want to solve the problem of how to insulate brick wall from the inside, you can use the technology that involves the use of drywall. This method is fast and simple. A distance of 3 cm must be maintained from the draft surface to the front base. With an increase in this space, more insulation will fit into the voids of the structure. This method is great for large rooms, because the wall thickens during the installation of thermal insulation.

The process begins with the installation of a frame from metal profiles. They are removed from the wall by 2 cm. The frame must be made of a galvanized profile. A tape is glued to the sole of the elements to isolate the surface from the plaster. This will protect the drywall from the cold that is transmitted through the metal profile. Mineral wool is placed in the cavity of the frame, and the layer between the wall and drywall will also become a heater.

The next step is the installation of drywall. When insulating rooms with high humidity, you should not save money - it is better to purchase moisture-resistant material. At the final stage, the tiles are finished with wallpaper.

Thermal insulation in a panel house

How to insulate a panel wall from the inside is an urgent issue that interests many apartment owners. For work, you can use plaster. If it's about brickwork, then you will be able to cope with the work in a short time. The material is laid in three layers, each of which dries well.

At the first stage, the composition is applied by spraying. This will fill in all the bumps and gaps. The thickness does not exceed 10 mm. The main stage is the application of a primer layer 5 cm thick. The effectiveness of thermal insulation will depend on the quality of this stage.

If you want to know how to insulate a wall in a panel house from the inside, you can use foam. Even a beginner can handle its installation. But mineral wool, although it is an excellent option, takes up more space. It has one important advantage, which is expressed in the fact that in the process of fixing the material does not need a prepared layer of plaster.

Wall insulation in residential buildings, especially apartment buildings, is an important and responsible process, especially if a major overhaul is planned - the insulation protects the walls from freezing in winter period and dampness in the off-season, but its main function is to provide thermal protection.

Thanks to quality insulation walls with inside, for example, you can significantly save on heating, this is especially true for corner apartments and private houses. The issue of insulation should be approached very seriously, since the result of the work is designed for a long period of operation, therefore below we will consider the types and technologies of insulation applied to different types walls.

Types of wall insulation and features of internal insulation

Wall insulation can be outdoor and internal. The first type is considered more effective and is the modern standard, but internal wall insulation becomes the only way out if it is not possible to produce external one for one of the following reasons:

The house is part of the architectural heritage or the facade faces the main street.
The presence of an expansion joint of buildings in the area that is planned to be insulated.
Outside behind the wall is an unheated room (for example, an elevator shaft).

The performance of internal insulation requires right choice material, since it must be vapor-tight, as well as careful installation - if the work is not done correctly, the apartment will not only not become warmer, but will also be subject to the destructive effects of mold, fertile soil for which can be condensate that appears between the main wall and the insulation layer, or dew point.

What is dew point and what does it matter when planning wall insulation?

Dew point- this is a place on the wall where, at a certain temperature, the vapor contained in the air begins to condense, settling on the walls in the form of droplets resembling dew. It is of great importance, first of all, in the inter-heating seasons, when the air temperature in the premises decreases and the humidity rises. In fact, the higher the humidity, the closer the dew point is to the air temperature, and vice versa. Condensation appears in uninsulated or most weak points walls - at joints and seams.

The choice of material for insulating walls from the inside with your own hands, insulation technologies

The first requirements when choosing materials for internal wall insulation are their high density, low vapor permeability, minimum number of joints during installation. The most common heaters for domestic use are materials based on foam, polyethylene, warm plaster, ceramic compounds, mineral wool and many others, and we will consider the most acceptable types of materials and the technology for their installation when doing the insulation with our own hands.

Internal wall insulation with mineral wool- one of the most common, but not ideal types of insulation, since wool over time can begin to absorb moisture and contribute to the appearance of dampness, however, with careful work, processing of joints and impregnation of the wall and insulation with antifungal compounds, its service life is quite long and can reach 10 years .

When insulated with mineral wool, the wall is equipped metal frame, the cells of which are filled with mineral wool slabs, are carefully compacted and covered with drywall sheets on top. The disadvantage of this method of insulation is a decrease in the area of \u200b\u200bthe room.

Striving for comfort, many residents of apartments refuse centralized heating and install warm electric floors; testimonials from those who have already used warm floors, eloquently testify to increased comfort and warm along with economy.

Instructions for laying underfloor heating devi - in this article. Features of installation and competent styling.

Wall insulation from the inside with polystyrene foam It is also popular, since expanded polystyrene sheets have a low specific gravity and high resistance to moisture, and their small thickness does not require prior placement of the frame on the wall. Fastening to the prepared wall can be done using building glue, dowels, liquid nails, be sure to process the joints with polyurethane foam.

Insulation of internal walls with foam, or expanded polystyrene foam, is considered one of the most reliable ways to protect the premises from dampness. This material is absolutely environmentally friendly, has high strength and wear resistance, is fireproof, easy to install and relatively inexpensive.

Penoplex is glued or nailed to the prepared wall and requires the creation of a reinforcing layer to give the structure greater strength, as well as additional leveling of the surface - only after that you can start finishing the walls.

Internal insulation foam walls also performed frameless method by gluing foam boards to the wall with ceramic tile adhesive.

The surface of the foam is covered with a layer of glue and a reinforced mesh with an overlap of 10-15 cm is placed on top of it with a slight indentation, which is eventually covered with a layer of plaster for painting or wallpapering, or ceramic or tile is mounted directly on the insulation.

Before insulating the walls of the apartment from the inside, it is necessary choose insulation material to the materials from which the walls or ceilings are made:

insulation of a brick wall from the inside can be done using polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and mineral wool;
internal insulation of walls made of foam blocks is best done with foam plastic, foam plastic or expanded polystyrene;
to insulate the internal walls of a wooden house, it is better to use foam or polystyrene foam;
insulate concrete walls from the inside it is possible using any of the described heaters.

Many owners of their own suburban housing are interested, especially if there is no basement or cellar. Find out the features and methods of floor insulation in a private cottage or country house.

If the house is cold or the climate is harsh, you should also think about how to insulate the walls of the apartment from the inside. Learn about the methods and features of wall insulation from the inside of a dwelling.

When choosing materials for internal insulation, it is important that they meet the following requirements:

resistance to high temperature, fire safety;
low ability to conduct heat - the selected material should not release heat from the room in winter and should not contribute to heating the apartment in summer;
environmental friendliness or safety for health;
durability, strength and ability to retain shape and volume;
high resistance to moisture.

Also when planning self-insulation walls, it is advisable to consult with experts who could recommend the optimal thickness of the material.

Rules for the internal insulation of the walls of the apartment

Walls to be insulated must be properly prepared to this process, and the most important elements of preparation are:

drying the wall with a building hair dryer, spotlights or infrared lamps;
status check or installation insulating materials which will protect the surface from moisture and steam;
processing of seams between floor slabs and in the heat insulator layer.

Warming process step by step as follows:

All finishes are completely removed, the primer layer should also be completely removed, especially if traces of mold or fungus are noticed. The surface is completely cleaned with construction vacuum cleaner and a broom The walls are dried with a building hair dryer, spotlights or infrared lamps and, if necessary, impregnated with antifungal mixtures.
After the wall has completely dried, it is necessary to block all cracks and holes. If they are shallow, you can use a cement or any other primer mixture, for cracks up to 3 cm deep, it is recommended to use mounting foam, deeper damage should be covered with tow and blown out mounting foam.
The next stage is surface treatment with antiseptics and a primer. The break between actions should be sufficient for the wall to dry well.
The surface must be leveled for a snug further fit of the frame or frameless insulation.
Particular attention should be paid to the joints of the floors - blow out all the holes, and also glue them with construction fabric.
If necessary, you can additionally lay a layer of waterproofing, which should be placed between the base of the wall and the insulation layer.
After preparing the wall, you can proceed with the installation, the methods of which for each of the materials have been described above.
After the insulation layer and additional elements (reinforced mesh, finishing primer layer) have completely dried, you can start finishing the walls.

The cost of insulation square meter walls with my own hands will be from 450 rubles to more high price based on the type of insulation chosen and a set of additional measures for surface preparation.

Wall insulation from the inside should be resorted to only in extreme cases, when the outside, that is, accepted as a modern standard, is impossible. The constant development of technologies over time will make it possible to improve the process of warming an apartment from the inside without losing space and the risk of condensation in the wall space, however, the methods listed above are among the most optimal in the current conditions.

For those who are interested in the technology in a more visual format, see the wall insulation from the inside in the video instructions:

Specialists in thermal insulation of houses agree that, if possible, it is better to insulate the outside. However, if this is not possible, you have to resort to internal wall insulation. In this case, you risk losing the useful area of the apartment and reducing the life of the building due to dampness of the walls. Of course, the degree of risk depends on the choice of insulation materials and installation technology. We will talk about all this in detail in today's article.

The main problem of wall insulation from the inside is that the wall itself does not cease to be exposed to external atmospheric influences: frost, moisture, wind loads. When the insulation is on the inside of the wall, frost penetrates through its thickness and collides with the heat-insulating layer, and a conflict arises between two temperatures - cold street and warm home. As a result of this, condensate begins to form behind the insulation, and since it cannot evaporate anywhere, the porous material of the walls and insulation begin to absorb moisture. The wall from this is gradually destroyed, and the insulation loses its protective characteristics. You end up with cold house with weak walls. Brick walls suffer the most from this state of affairs.

To avoid such disastrous consequences, it is necessary to be able to choose the right heat-insulating material. It should be characterized by minimal vapor permeability, not be afraid of moisture, and during its installation there should be a minimum of butt joints (potential leaks and damage). Also, to prevent the accumulation of condensate, a small gap should be left between the wall and the insulation so that moisture can evaporate freely. Many people neglect this particular step, trying to press the thermal insulation against the wall as tightly as possible and save usable space, but this is not worth doing. In any case, you will sacrifice free space, and 5-10 cm will not change the situation much, but the house will stand for a couple of decades longer.

Warming methods and materials

Under the above requirements for the choice of insulation do not fall at all the following materials: mineral wool in rolls, warm plaster, cork, plasterboard panels, liquid ceramics and other products that are not able to withstand moisture changes. Drywall and warm plaster can be used for finishing decorative finishes insulated wall, but nothing more. To better navigate, remember one simple rule: if the material consists of fibers, can absorb moisture or actively passes steam, it is not suitable for internal insulation of the walls of the house.

Expanded polystyrene in this regard is very popular, and it is used to insulate walls not only inside, but also outside (facades). However, when laying polystyrene foam, a lot of joints and seams are formed, which accelerate the decrease in the tightness of thermal insulation.

Criteria for choosing insulation for walls:

Environmental friendliness - remember that you are going to insulate the house from the inside, so all materials used must be completely safe for health. When laying mineral wool, for example, it is imperative to wear protective gloves, a respirator and goggles so that the fibers do not harm the body. It is non-toxic, but requires careful handling and subsequent high-quality finishing. The material must be safe not only at the time of installation, but also after many years (do not emit toxins during aging).
Fire safety - insulation should not easily ignite or support combustion.
Low thermal conductivity - the lower the thermal conductivity, the better the material retains heat or coolness inside the house. The indicator is determined based on the square of the section, that is, the lower the thermal conductivity, the thinner the thermal insulation should be. Some mistakenly believe that the thicker the insulation, the better, but in reality you risk simply overpaying for more expensive material and at the same time taking up even more free space inside the house.
Moisture resistance - the insulation should absorb a minimum of moisture or not absorb it at all. In this regard, polystyrene occupies a winning position.
Resistance to deformation and mechanical stress - the material must be durable and not warp over time due to temperature changes or natural seasonal wall movements (expansion in summer and narrowing in winter).
Durability - the insulation should last as long as possible (10-15 years).

Despite the abundance of insulation materials on the market, only a few fully meet the above criteria. Below we will consider which of them are the most popular in private construction and talk about efficient way wall insulation from the inside.

polyurethane foam for wall insulation

Foamed polyurethane is the leader in the field of insulation for interior and exterior walls, ceilings and even floors. Its popularity is due to its high moisture resistance, durability and quick installation. The only drawback of the material is the peculiarity of its application - for this, a special spraying technique is used. Polyurethane foam itself consists of several components that are mixed in a spray bottle, after which it is applied under high pressure to the surface to be insulated. Upon contact with oxygen, the material immediately foams and hardens, giving a monolithic and seamless heat-insulating layer. If you have ever worked with polyurethane foam, the principle of applying polyurethane foam should be clear to you.

In order for the polyurethane foam to properly set and form a sufficient thickness to protect the house from the cold, it must be applied to the pre-installed formwork. It is built of wood or metal and the sections are alternately filled with foamed insulation. If you are making a frame out of wood, all elements should be treated with an antiseptic, if made of metal - with an anti-corrosion compound. In this case, there are no seams in the insulation, but there is still a risk of depressurization - if the formwork elements are destroyed.

After the foam layer has hardened, it must be closed vapor barrier membrane, then cover with sheets of drywall. It is already becoming clear that each of the layers, starting with the formwork, ending with drywall and finishing, takes up a lot of space, so this method is not suitable for warming rooms with a modest quadrature. Apply plaster or other Decoration Materials directly on top of the frozen polyurethane foam is impossible - firstly, the surface turns out to be uneven, and secondly, if the finish does not hold, it will not last very long.

For the installation of drywall, it will also be necessary to build a frame of metal profiles, and the profile can only be attached to adjacent walls, floors or ceilings, because the insulation will not withstand such a load. You can learn more about working with drywall in the article "". In this case, the dew point (the place where cold and warm air meet) will be in the thickness of the polyurethane foam itself or between it and the wall, and since the vapor permeability of the material is very low, condensation will not form.

Styrofoam for walls

If you decide to insulate the walls with ordinary polystyrene foam, which is sold in slabs, carefully study the technology for its installation. Expanded polystyrene is a close relative of ordinary foam, but unlike it, it has a greater density and strength. The surface of the boards is even and smooth, therefore, for their gluing, special mixtures are needed, designed specifically for expanded polystyrene. In this case, joints cannot be avoided, but the risk of cold bridges can be minimized if the insulation sheets are fitted as tightly as possible to each other.

When choosing mixtures for the installation of expanded polystyrene, pay attention to the instructions for their use - some are intended only for gluing, others - only for UV protection, others are designed for woodworking, etc. Consider also the material the walls are made of.

An important point: If you worked with foam or saw how professionals mount it, you should have remembered that the adhesive solution is applied to the plates in small cakes. In the case of internal insulation of the walls of the apartment, this option will not work, since air chambers will remain under the insulation - ideal condensate collectors. Over time, mold and fungi will inevitably develop there, which will damage both the wall and the interior.

In our case, the adhesive composition should be applied to the expanded polystyrene evenly, smearing it over the entire area of the sheet. Before applying the mixture, it is necessary to walk over the surface with a spiked roller to slightly perforate it, thereby enhancing adhesion to the adhesive and the wall. This step should by no means be ignored, especially if you are working not with ordinary foam, but with polystyrene foam (a hard and dense material with a smooth surface).

Since the expanded polystyrene plates are perfectly even, in order to securely fix them, the insulated wall must also be perfectly even. This is the greatest difficulty - if the wall has significant differences and defects, preliminary leveling with plaster will be required. In this case, you need to use not the usual mineral (cement) mixture, but moisture-resistant compounds that are sold to work with the kitchen and bathroom.

Helpful Hint: Styrofoam can only be glued! It is not advisable to use metal anchors for fixing, since in this way you yourself create a depressurization of the heat-insulating layer. If after insulation you want to plaster the wall, then before installing the reinforcing stack, reinforce the surface with “T”-shaped profiles. Run them between the styrofoam panels and attach them to the floor and ceiling.

Mineral wool for walls

Although we said that it is undesirable to use mineral wool for wall insulation, this only applies to material produced in rolls. Mineral wool in plates is more resistant to moisture changes, and it is much easier to work with it. For the manufacture of the material, basalt rocks are used, which is why it is often called stone wool.

Mineral wool insulation is resistant to high temperatures, almost does not react to the effects of household chemicals. The main advantages of the material are excellent heat and sound insulation. However, it is worth making a reservation here - if the mineral wool becomes damp, it will immediately lose its protective properties. On sale there are plates, one side of which is covered with foil material, which not only increases the thermal insulation capacity, but also serves as additional protection against getting wet. Such plates are most suitable for internal insulation of external walls and ceilings, since in literally reflect the heat tending to leave the house, back.

A serious disadvantage of mineral wool is the presence of carcinogenic fractions in it. This is a non-environmental synthetic material that does not have the best effect on health. Of course, in the long run, but the fact remains that mineral wool emits formaldehyde that is hazardous to health.

Protective equipment must be put on before installing mineral wool: gloves, long-sleeved clothing, goggles and a respirator. Nearby should not be open food, drink, fire. If a piece of mineral wool gets on the skin, it will cause irritation and itching, so after work, the room should be carefully cleaned and ventilated.

Second wall for insulation

The construction of a second wall for insulation is a common way for houses, the square of which allows you to donate several tens of centimeters of area without much damage. The most reliable material for internal wall insulation in this case is the “native” material, that is, if the house is built of wood, then the second wall should be wooden, brick - brick, block - block, etc.

For a stone house should be done masonry second wall. This technology is quite simple: you need to cover the walls along the inner perimeter of the house with burnt brick or stone with mandatory reinforcement. The second wall must be tied to the old one, and the space between them must be covered with sand or poured cement-sand mortar. Experts recommend pouring a solution, since the sand will sag over time, and it is not possible to add it.

The advantages of this method:

You practically do not need to prepare the base - just clean it up a bit and restore it if necessary.
The dew point problem disappears - no need to worry about the wall getting damp.
The walls become stronger, and the house will stand several times longer.

Among the shortcomings, in addition to reducing the usable area by several meters, one can single out the fact that the second wall gives an additional load on the floor and foundation. Not every foundation is able to withstand such a mass.

If you want to build a second wall in a log house, it must be wooden. This is an old proven technology, when the walls of a log house are upholstered with boards from the inside, nailing them directly to logs or beams. However, it is better to mount the second wall on the crate, and the space between it and old wall fill with sawdust, expanded clay, slag or other environmentally friendly insulation.

This design is homogeneous, so dew points cannot occur. It is almost not necessary to prepare the basis for it, except to treat all the wooden elements with an antiseptic and fire retardant.

wall insulation technology

In this chapter, we will talk about the technology of insulating interior walls using popular materials. We will not consider foamed polyurethane, since it requires special equipment and handling skills.

Mineral wool insulation

Mineral wool is cheaper than other heaters, and it is the easiest to install. To attach mineral wool boards, you need to create a frame. To do this, you will need rack metal profiles for drywall and staples for them.

Mounting technology:

Insulation with expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene, unlike mineral wool, is completely safe and does not require personal protection. The only thing that confuses many home owners is its flammability. Yes, Styrofoam and its derivatives burn and emit highly toxic smoke, but the ignition temperature is twice that of paper. At the same time, the foam plastic emits 5 times less heat than wood, so if a fire happens in the house, it is not because the foam is sewn into the wall.

To insulate the inner wall of a block house, extruded polystyrene foam up to 40 mm thick is used. Since it is a flat material, it can only be glued on flat surface, so the wall must first be processed. For external insulation with polystyrene foam, umbrella anchors are used as additional fixation, but inside the house, the operational loads are not so serious, so only special glue is enough.

Helpful Hint: If the walls are only insulated from the inside, leave ventilation gap between wall and insulation. So the condensate will evaporate and will not be able to harm the wall material.

The technology of wall insulation from the inside with polystyrene foam:

Finally, we suggest watching a training video on the internal insulation of walls with your own hands:

Properly insulated walls of the house will make life in it comfortable, and heating bills will be minimal. There is a wide variety of thermal insulation materials that differ in their thermal conductivity, installation method and price. Consider the most popular ways of warming private houses.

Thermal insulation materials

In total there are many types. Starting from the well-known glass wool and ending with a modern heat-insulating mortar, which is applied like paint.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is made from fibers of inorganic materials such as dolomite, basalt, quartz, broken glass, diabase, etc. To create it, the material is first melted and then placed in a centrifuge, where it is stretched into thin fibers and settles in a special chamber. The resulting mass is a chaotic interlacing of fibers, further heat-insulating mats and plates are formed from it.

Properties of mineral wool:

has low thermal conductivity;
is a non-combustible material;
has high compressive strength and no less high tensile strength;
excellent soundproof qualities;
resistance to temperature changes;
environmental friendliness;
ease of installation.

Good thermal insulation properties of the insulation are due to the structure of the material, in which the number of air channels is 95%. Mineral wool belongs to the class of non-combustible materials (capable of withstanding temperatures up to 700 degrees) and its use is allowed not only in private homes, but also in public buildings. Does not lose its operational properties for several decades.

Most opponents of the use of mineral wool as a wall insulation explain their position by the fact that the mats are quite soft and in a vertical position, over time, will shrink, which will lead to cold bridges. But the fibers in it are arranged randomly, giving the material the necessary rigidity and resistance to mechanical stress.

When insulating with mineral wool, it is necessary to use vapor-tight films to protect against condensate. But this is not its only protection against moisture, hydrophobic substances are added even at the manufacturing stage, and basalt fibers themselves are non-hygroscopic raw materials.

Fiberglass

This material has been known for a long time and has been successfully used for home insulation for many years. They are made on the basis of broken glass, soda, sand, dolomite, limestone and a number of other components. It is also heated and separated into many fine fibers, which are located in finished material parallel to each other.

Fiberglass properties:

keeps the house warm in winter and cool in summer;
has soundproofing properties;
fiberglass mats, although they absorb moisture, easily give it back, which indicates non-hygroscopicity;
due to good elasticity and resilience, it does not deform for many years;
the composition of the material is environmentally friendly, and due to the treatment with special preparations it is not afraid of pests and is not susceptible to mold;
unlike mineral wool, fiberglass is more vibration resistant;
great for warming uneven surfaces;
when burning does not emit harmful substances.

Fiberglass insulated walls and facades frame houses, but still, this material is more suitable for thermal insulation of floors, floors and pipelines.
Fiberglass mats are easy to cut, but you should work with them in protective clothing and a respirator, because when it comes into contact with the skin, irritation begins, which will take quite a long time to get rid of.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Extruded polystyrene foam is a modern analogue of conventional polystyrene. It is favorably distinguished from other heaters by low water absorption and strong compression resistance, providing high stability to the material.

It, without losing its properties, withstands very low and high temperatures. When warming them, it is not necessary to carry out waterproofing work. There is also no need to purchase vapor barrier films, which is an additional advantage.

Expanded polystyrene has special markings, thanks to which it is easy to choose the required material according to its characteristics - compressive strength or surface embossing.

Styrofoam

Polyfoam has been known for more than half a century. Perhaps this is the most cheap look thermal insulation material. It is great for warming residential and non-residential buildings. Its structure is made up of plastic granules filled with gas, which practically do not let heat through.

Despite the artificial origin, in terms of vapor-permeable characteristics, expanded polystyrene is similar to wood. And due to its low hygroscopicity, it is not subject to rotting and the formation of mold that is harmful to health.

Another important advantage is its resistance to acids (with the exception of nitric and acetic acid) and paints.

For do-it-yourself insulation, PPS plates sized 50x100 and 60x120 cm are best suited.

Disadvantages:

high flammability of the material;
enters into chemical reaction with some solvents (in particular with dichloroethane and benzene);
fragile material that is easy to break;
when insulating a private house with it, it suffers from the teeth of mice that like to make their holes in it.

Ecowool

This is a relatively new thermal insulation material that is gaining popularity due to affordable price, environmental friendliness and excellent technical characteristics.

Advantages:

made from wood fiber, it has excellent thermal properties;
during production, special additives are added to ecowool, making it a difficult-to-ignite material;
in its manufacture, antiseptics are used, so rodents and other pests do not live in it, and mold and fungus do not form;
protects wooden house from rotting, and in frame houses it extends the service life of wooden elements up to 100 years. Due to its natural origin (the basis is cellulose), ecowool has the ability to "breathe".

A layer of ecowool of 15 cm is equal to: 46 cm of foam concrete wall, 18 cm of mineral wool insulation, 50 cm of thickness wooden beam, 90 cm expanded clay, 146 cm brick walls.

Features and comparison of thermal insulation materials

What you should pay attention to when choosing a thermal insulation material:

All cotton wool insulation (mineral wool, fiberglass) suppress well airborne noise. But polystyrene and polystyrene foam will require the use of additional soundproofing material.
Wadded heaters, although made of non-hygroscopic materials, absorb water well (the air between the fibers absorbs water). And having got wet only by 2% of the mass, they lose 50% of their properties. Therefore, they are insulated only in conjunction with the use of vapor-tight films. PPS and EPPS do not absorb moisture, and being in water, do not lose their characteristics for a long time.
It is not recommended to insulate the walls of the house with foam from the inside. It belongs to combustible materials, and when burned, it releases toxic substances. But if the choice fell on PPS, it is worth stopping at the G1 flammability group. Although it will burn on contact with fire, it will not be able to sustain combustion on its own. Of course, groups such as G4 or G3 are much cheaper, but it is dangerous to choose them for warming a private house.

Wall insulation from the inside of a frame house with mineral wool

Mineral wool is classified into several types:

with a density of 10-90 kg / m3 - suitable for insulation and soundproof frame houses, in which no load will be placed on it;
more rigid, with a density of 90 kg / m3, designed to bear some loads, most often it is insulated with the contours of structures;
the third type is technical. It is used for insulation of equipment and is able to withstand temperatures from - 180 to + 700 degrees.

Insulation of the walls of a frame house with mineral wool is best option. It does not burn, perfectly retains heat, isolates rooms from noise and is safe for health and the environment.

The main task when working with it is to create a hermetic vapor barrier from all sides, reliably protecting the material from condensation and moisture. It will also be necessary to equip a ventilated gap between the vapor barrier covering the insulation and the finishing wall cladding.

Stages of work

The distance between the vertical posts in the frame house is 60 cm, which corresponds in width to the size of the basalt slab. For wall insulation, material in the form of plates with a density of at least 30 kg / m3 is suitable. The standard sheet thickness is 5 cm, so the number of layers is selected individually, depending on the weather conditions of the region. So, for the south of Russia, it is enough to make a layer of insulation of 10 cm. And during construction in the northern regions optimum thickness 15 cm of thermal insulation material on the inside, and 5 cm on the outside. Moreover, the external insulation is fastened in such a way as to cover all the wooden beams of the frame, thereby eliminating the possibility of cold bridges.

With outside frame house, as a rule, already has a layer of vapor barrier to protect the external insulation, so it makes no sense to duplicate it from the inside before laying the insulation. If between OSB boards small gaps have formed, they must be foamed with mounting foam.
The insulation between the vertical posts must be laid tightly so that there are no gaps. Due to the good elasticity of the material, this is easy to do. From above, it is closed with a vapor barrier film, which is overlapped, and all its seams are additionally glued with construction reinforced tape.

On top of the membrane film, a crate for plasterboard sheathing is attached to the frame.

How to insulate a frame house with ecowool

Second best way to insulate a frame house is to use ecowool. In most cases, the companies that produce it offer installation services. But spraying it is easy and on your own, just rent a special vacuum cleaner. True, it should be noted that the manufacturer will assure that there is no need for vapor barrier material. This is partly true, but to extend the service life and to prevent unpleasant situations, additional protection from condensate is necessary.

Ecowool is applied in three ways:

dry method. This is the most common option, it is suitable for insulating the walls of a private house from the inside, floors, interfloor ceilings and sloping mansard roofs. Spraying is carried out using a hose from which insulation is supplied. It is simply poured into prepared wall cavities or filled in the floor space between the beams.

Wet way. Ideal for insulating sloped surfaces. Water is added to it, due to which adhesion increases and the material sticks to the wall. And after drying, a denser coating is created.

"Adhesive method". As the name implies, glue is added to the insulation. This method is used when insulating concrete or metal walls, for example hangars. AT this case finishing sheathing not required.

Insulation of the walls of a brick house from the inside

When choosing a heat-insulating material for warming a brick house from the inside, it is important that it has high thermal insulation properties, but had a small thickness. Unlike a frame house, in which the insulation is located inside the walls, in a brick house it occupies a usable area. Therefore, it is so important to find the best option without damaging residential meters.

Consider three methods of insulation - plaster, foam and mineral wool.

Insulation of the walls of a brick house from the inside with plaster

The first coat of primer is applied to the leveled walls paint brush with hard brush. It should have a liquid consistency, and when applied, fill all the gaps and small cracks. On average, the thickness of the first layer is 5-8 mm.

Then comes the plastering. She is the main heat-insulating material so it should be evenly distributed. First, a fabric reinforcing mesh is mounted on the wall, and the composition is applied on top of it with a spatula with a flat surface. Gradually, in two stages, a layer of 5 cm is created (a layer thickness of 1.5-2 cm is allowed, but not more).

On the final stage the plaster is covered with the last leveling layer. To do this, the liquid consistency of the solution is diluted and fine-grained sand is added to it. The thickness of this layer is approximately 5 mm.

Insulation of the walls of a brick house from the inside with foam

All the advantages and disadvantages of foam insulation have already been described above, so we will consider the stages of work directly.

For more effective insulation the brick wall is first plastered. Then a layer of putty level the surface for a snug fit of foam sheets.

If the outside of the house does not have waterproofing, it must be done from the inside. It can be a liquid primer or a vapor barrier film. Despite the moisture resistance of PPS, the moisture that forms on the brickwork penetrates and destroys it.

Now the installation of sheets begins. On a flat surface, it is attached to a special adhesive, which is applied to the walls or directly to the material. Styrofoam sheets should fit snugly against each other, without the formation of cracks at the joints.

From above, the heat-insulating material is closed with a vapor barrier. Warming is completed, you can start finishing.

Insulation of the walls of a brick house from the inside with mineral wool

With this type of insulation, the brick wall must also be closed with hydro or vapor barrier.

Then a crate is mounted from metal profiles or wooden slats located vertically. The distance between them should be equal to the width of the heat-insulating material. You can’t make it a little wider or add allowances, because mineral wool is a soft material that is easy to lay, but it should be very tight in the frame.

After all the insulation is laid and covered with a vapor barrier film, a crate is nailed on top for finishing.

Walls are insulated in the same way. panel house from within. But depending on the initial thickness of the walls, a thicker layer of insulation may be required.

Insulation of the walls of a log house from the inside

Above is a diagram of the "pie" of insulation log house. When insulating a wooden house with mineral wool, it is imperative to provide a ventilated gap between the timber wall and the insulation layer to prevent condensation from accumulating.

The tree is organic material which is subject to decay. Therefore, it will be necessary to build, from the inside, a whole frame system filled with insulation. If this is neglected, the timber will rot in 4-5 years.

For the frame, boards are selected with a length equal to the height of the room from ceiling to floor. They are installed in increments of 60 cm, this is the standard width of all mineral wool heaters. They are fixed indented from the wall by 2-3 cm, thus creating a ventilation gap.

But in order for the moisture to escape into the atmosphere, it will be necessary to make ventilation in the wall. To do this, a hole with a diameter of 2 cm is drilled in the first beam from the floor at an angle of 45 degrees to the ground. They must be made along the entire length in increments of 1 m. From above, the ventilation gap is left open, with access to the attic or under the eaves.

To protect the air from overlapping with mineral wool and to retain warm air inside the room, a vapor barrier film is attached to the frame.

After installing the vapor barrier, the insulation is tightly laid, without the formation of cold bridges. From above, as shown in the diagram, the structure is also covered with a vapor barrier film.

The insulation is completed, it remains to make the crate for inner lining walls.

All information about the required layer thickness is given approximately. For an accurate calculation in each case, many factors should be taken into account - the material of the walls, the presence external insulation, climatic features, thermal insulation characteristics of a particular manufacturer, etc.

One and the same heat-insulating material cannot insulate everything. But if the seller or builder assures you otherwise, this only indicates their personal benefit.

It is necessary to lay cotton materials tightly, but in no case compress it. It should be located exactly in the crate and not have a bend.

According to the above technologies, wall insulation is produced country houses from the inside, cottages for year-round use or city apartments. The only difference is that in the first and last case, the insulation layer is made minimal.