Self-insulation of the walls of a frame house. Instructions for insulating the walls of a frame house How to insulate a frame house correctly

Frame houses are being built very, very actively. But even such reliable and high-quality structures in the Russian climate cannot do without insulation. And this means that a quiet life in the house depends on the choice of the right version of it and on the literacy of work.

Why is it necessary?

Panel buildings are very popular among summer residents: they are attracted by the opportunity, having started work in late autumn, to have a full-fledged house by the beginning of the season. At the same time, such structures:

environmentally friendly;
are inexpensive;
serve for many decades.

But all these advantages are realized only if the insulation of the frame house is done properly.

Otherwise, it will be quite difficult to call it comfortable. It is worth immediately distinguishing between two types of buildings.

Buildings for permanent use by default should have solid thermal protection.
If it is planned to be there only from the end of spring to the end of autumn, thermal insulation should be minimal - strictly to maintain the stability of the structure itself.

The "framework", intended for the summer period, has a wall thickness of no more than 70 mm. In the cold season, the required figure is at least twice as high. If you limit yourself to a thinner layer of material, the heat leakage will be disproportionately large, and you will either freeze or lose a lot of money on heating.

Important: for winter living, it will not be necessary to insulate the entire volume of the frame, but only its individual details, first of all:

slopes;
cellars;
attic planes;
plinth structures.

It will not work to get by with only a warm floor, even if its power is excessive. Through basements, external walls and other parts of the structure of the panel house, heat will flow away all the same cheerfully. Given the variety of conditions where heaters will be placed, it is impossible to give a universal answer about the best option. The walls of the basement are equipped with some types of thermal protection, load-bearing walls - with others, the ceiling of a cold attic - with third ones. But in any case, the choice of suitable insulation formats always comes first.

Types of thermal insulation

Cross (additional) insulation of frame structures is carried out, as its name implies, by adding an auxiliary volume of insulation to one layer. Such a solution allows you to reliably close the existing cold bridges. Most builders prefer outdoor insulation- because it does not take away precious interior space, which is always lacking in dachas and rural dwellings. In addition to thermal protection of the facade plane, special attention should be paid to preventing heat from escaping through the corners.

They are the most problematic points in any home; now you can find out which solutions to all these problems should be preferred.

What should be insulated?

Insulation for a frame house cannot be bulk; standard technology involves the use of only tiles or rolls. The difference is not only that "one is put down, the other is untwisted." Technologists are aware of the differences in nominal thickness. Usually, increasing the layer thickness increases the energy efficiency of the material.

But it is worth remembering that even a material that is impeccable in itself can be applied incorrectly, and this immediately devalues all the advantages. Therefore, it is better to either turn to professionals, or study the slightest subtleties and nuances of each coating.

The vast majority of amateur builders and official firms use the "brilliant four":

mineral wool;
expanded polystyrene;
mineral plates;
isolon.

There are many other options, the main division of which is carried out by chemical nature (organic or inorganic substances in the base) or by structure - solid blocks and bulk substances. You can even choose expanded clay, metallurgical slag and other bulk reagents. But the problem with this solution is the gradual shrinkage of the thermal protection layer. You will have to thoroughly ram the layer to be laid, and not just fill the entire volume of the wall, floor, and so on with the selected composition. Slab materials do not cause such problems - but they also have their own "pitfalls".

So, it is pointless to use mineral wool in its pure form for external wall insulation: it will not hold well, and it will retain its thermal qualities only until the first rain or snow. An indispensable condition for success is attachment to a special structure made of bars stuffed vertically. Each beam is placed only where the border between the mineral wool slabs passes. You should also take care of external protection against getting wet.

It is important to wear respiratory protective equipment, wear special goggles and do not remove gloves when working.

Styrofoam is a substance of organic nature. Its undoubted advantages are:

low specific gravity;
protection of walls from strong winds;
exclusion of decay.

But these advantages also have a downside: high fire risks. Therefore, it is impossible to finish the walls with foam plastic that has not undergone special processing.

Mineral wool is absolutely non-flammable. A similar advantage can be obtained when using basalt wool, but it has another significant plus - ease of processing and perfect safety for builders.

The use of penoizol is called by many the ideal solution.

But he also has weaknesses - after a few years, areas are formed where the material will not fit snugly. Therefore, the heat loss will increase sharply. The liquid version of the coating has a more powerful adhesion and lasts 50–60 years (a guarantee is given for such a period). The disadvantage is also, however, obvious - without special equipment, success will not work. But penoizol is in any case acceptable for keeping heat in the floor, roof and walls.

Internal insulation of the walls of frame buildings with rolled materials is impossible. More precisely, it will be possible to attach them to the walls, but then the walls themselves will shrink, and the thermal insulation will inevitably be damaged. Regardless of the option chosen, and whether the work is done inside or outside the house, it must be carried out very carefully. It is useful to keep this in mind whenever the thought arises of saving money by working on your own. If among all the materials the choice fell on penoizol, its installation is preceded by the installation of profiles.

Expanded clay frame structures are extremely rarely insulated, and such a choice does not justify even its low cost. Yes, the material is very dense and does not absorb water well. But if he has already absorbed the liquid, its return will be very slow. Expanded clay is very heavy, and even with a minimum dry density, it presses on the walls, the foundation is very strong. This circumstance will have to be taken into account when decorating the exterior, choosing the most durable solutions for it.

But the main thing is not even this, but the fact that expanded clay is three times worse in terms of thermal qualities than mineral wool and polystyrene. Be sure to use therefore layers of waterproofing and vapor barrier. Solid competition to this material is made by stone wool insulation. Working with her plates is a pleasure, there is no need for complex tools. Cutting into the desired fragments is done with a knife or a saw with fine teeth.

For your information: stone wool blocks cannot be compressed, rammed and squeezed. This will certainly lead to negative consequences. Ecowool also needs to be used wisely. So, in its pure form, ecological cotton wool is very flammable, but if you mix it with borax and boric acid, the level of fire danger will drop sharply. In addition, such processing will avoid interest from microscopic organisms and certain animal species.

Near the surface, ecowool can contain up to 20% water (by mass) and retain its basic insulating properties.

When the material dries, it fully restores performance. Such advantages as an optimal microclimate, damping of extraneous sounds, the absence of seams and sanitary safety will also be attractive to people. As for possible problems, they are:

you will have to limit yourself to vertical backfilling in order to guarantee thermal protection;
you will definitely need specialized equipment;
if the fastening control was poor, the material may settle;
ecowool is not very appropriate where high humidity may be present.

Insulation of frame houses with sawdust is another traditional, even centuries-old technology. But there is no reason to consider it exclusively primitive, as modern people often do. Careful consideration of the features of the material makes it possible to profitably embody its positive features and weaken the negative ones. The undoubted advantage of sawdust is its natural origin, affordable price and decent heat retention. It is only necessary to deal with the risk of ignition and with the settlement of rodents in the material.

Antiseptic components, lime, clay, gypsum or cement help to solve such problems.

Important: when choosing an additive for sawdust, you should pay attention to how hygroscopic it is.

In many places, high humidity can lead to very unpleasant consequences. Large fraction sawdust is usually taken on the draft insulating layer, and heat retention is mainly provided by a finer substance. When buying or self-harvesting, you should pay attention to the dryness of the material, the quality of thermal protection depends on it.

Adherents of modern materials and the latest technologies can insulate frame houses with extruded polystyrene foam. It is quite widely used when working on floors, including:

over unheated basements and technical undergrounds;
under attic ceilings;
to enhance the acoustic protection of structures separating the floors of the house.

Usually, on the floors of frame houses, expanded polystyrene is placed in the intervals of the lags; at the request of the owners or craftsmen, it can be mounted under a reinforced cement and sand screed. The disadvantage of the material (easily eliminated, however, with a careful approach) is the need to strictly observe the specified gaps between the plates. Expanding when heated, polystyrene foam can be damaged - gaps are needed to prevent such a development of events. It is important to remember the flammability of this synthetic substance, it should be used with caution.

It is unacceptable to glue it on mixtures containing any flammable or simply caustic component.

In addition to insulation, it is worth remembering that reliable, well-thought-out ventilation should be provided in a frame house.

The input of fresh air is always organized from the utility rooms, and the overflow is carried out under the doors separating the rooms. If you do not take care of the presence of a gap under them, then not only freshness, but even distribution of heat in the home will not be achieved. When it is not possible to form such a gap, they come to the rescue:

special channels for overflow;
lattice through the wall;
separate channels for the passage of air into a particular room.

Specifications

The more monolithic the insulation layer, the more stable it usually holds heat. That's why the density of the structure should be given paramount attention, it is much more important than a big name or a whole series of certificates. The only particularly lightweight material that deserves attention is expanded polystyrene (including its modification such as polystyrene). Even mineral wool is already in the light category, although its specific gravity can vary widely. It is this circumstance that allows you to choose the optimal solution for a variety of conditions and situations.

If the strongest cold blocking is needed (in living rooms and on the floor), the tightest versions are required. For a non-residential attic, the requirements bar is lower. With a density of 75 kg per 1 cu. m. cotton insulation is suitable only on surfaces that carry a relatively low load, as well as for thermal protection of pipes.

The P-125 brand is already more worthy, it can be used in different procedures:

sheathing of ceilings and floors;
thermal insulation of walls;
thermal protection of partitions;
suppression of external noise.

Cotton wool category ПЖ-175 has increased rigidity and is not used in frame houses, to a greater extent it is used in stone and concrete buildings. If you plan to cover the walls with siding, you can use basalt wool with a density of 40 to 90 kg per 1 cubic meter. m. Moreover, the most dense material is recommended to be used in the upper parts of the walls. Under the plaster, experts advise taking cotton wool with a specific gravity of 140–160 kg per 1 cubic meter. m. Less high requirements for heaters used in the interior of the frame house.

When the dwelling is covered with a pitched roof, the optimal parameters are 30–45 kg per 1 cubic meter. m, and if it is planned to insulate the attic, the lower bar is already 35 kg.

Five times higher than the minimum figure for mineral wool under a flat roof, and for polystyrene foam it is much more gentle, only 40 kg per 1 cubic meter. m maximum. In the floors, loose insulation is allowed to be used only when laying in the intervals of the lags. Otherwise, the thermal protection will be a mechanically loaded element, which will adversely affect its characteristics.

Residents of frame houses naturally strive to ensure that their habitats are not only warm, but also environmentally friendly; errors in the selection of insulation can interfere with the achievement of this goal. Until recently, it was possible to meet an environmentally friendly method of thermal protection only in elite areas, but now such schemes have become much more accessible. In the first place, quite predictably, are the fibers of natural raw materials:

woody;
linen;
hemp and some others.

The advantage of such substances is the zero degree of allergic and toxicological risk. The softness of the structure makes it difficult for individual components to penetrate into the outer space. In an environmentally friendly house, there is absolutely no place for mineral and glass wool. Shards of glass and stone fibers, insignificant in size, cannot be seen without a magnifying glass. But they can cause quite large-scale harm to health.

Important: no matter how great the desire for cleanliness and health protection is, this is not a reason to refuse antiseptic treatment of a number of materials - where it is really needed.

Flame retardants are most often made from borax, a natural mineral that is completely safe. The vast majority of thermal protection components, however, do not pose a danger only under strictly specified conditions. One of them is always the preservation of the integrity of the insulating "pie", from which one or another substance cannot escape normally. Linen insulation is relatively cheap and at the same time quite normal, based on data obtained from medical studies in different countries.

Peat blocks are now becoming increasingly in demand in frame construction. 1 cu. m of such material costs about 3 thousand rubles, and it will last from 75 years, all this time being a sharply unfavorable place for microbes. What is important in our troubled era, such a heater is able to reduce the entry of penetrating radiation into the house by 80%. The only problem is that there is still little operating experience, and it is not clear how peat blocks will behave in different conditions after many years.

Cork structures are easily placed under wallpaper, on interior walls and under the floor; but due to the very high price, it is unlikely that many people will be able to appreciate their quality in the foreseeable future.

Manufacturers Overview

Reviews allow you to appreciate not only various types of insulation materials, but also the professionalism and integrity of individual firms.

Attention: you need to take into account that we will talk only about the really best of the best companies that have shown all their capabilities over the years of competition.

Firm "Rockwall" supplies the market with fireproof thermal insulation made of stone wool. At the same time, it focuses on ensuring the highest environmental and sanitary performance of its products. You can use such mineral wool as part of thermal protection:

pipes;
facade walls;
room partitions;
roof structures;
areas under heavy load.

100 mm of such a slab is enough to replace almost 2 m of brickwork.

french corporation "Isover" sells glass wool to its customers in roll, slab or mat configuration. Of course, environmental safety is somewhat less, but the cost of products is noticeably lower and optimal fire-fighting properties are guaranteed. The level of thermal conductivity also meets the necessary requirements. The company's line includes pressed materials that are easy to put even without the use of fasteners.

Glass wool is also supplied under the brand name URSA, which uses a significantly smaller amount of phenol in production, and in some cases got rid of it altogether. The product range includes:

plates of moderate rigidity;
products adapted for medical and children's organizations;
hydrophobic structures of increased density;
products resistant to deforming loads.

Calculations

Regardless of which particular substance is used, it is required to carefully calculate the thickness of the insulation. If you miscalculate with this indicator, you will get either an insufficient effect, or excessively high costs for the purchase of thermal protection and for working with it. When the work is entrusted to a professional team, you still need to control the measurements and calculations made by it. As practice shows, installers left without supervision, making sure that no one checks them, sooner or later they will “mistake” in their favor.

The main role in the calculations is played by indicators such as thermal conductivity and thermal resistance.

Glass wool has a very high resistance to heat escape - but its shortcomings prevent the widespread use of this material. When calculating, it is worth focusing on the climatic properties of a particular area. So, in Moscow and its environs, the recommended layer of most good heaters does not exceed 0.2 m. If you use so many of them in the Far North, the result will be deplorable for residents.

The standard formula of the form δut = (R - 0.16 - δ1 / λ1 - δ2 / λ2 - δi / λi) × λut has the following components (in sequence):

heat resistance of structures in a particular area;
total thickness of all layers;
coefficient of thermal conductivity;
the ability of the insulation to transmit heat.

Raw materials and tools

When the type of insulation is selected, the calculations are made, it's time to get ready for work properly. Be sure to choose the necessary tools as carefully as possible, taking into account the slightest nuances.

With a dry version of insulation, along with the selected thermal protection, timber or metal structures of the created frame can be considered as "raw materials". It is also useful to choose decorative materials, waterproofing films, membranes, vapor barriers that are consistent with the material.
The "wet" scheme is implemented using water-based adhesives.

Typical tools for wall and roof insulation include:

screwdriver;
guns for applying polyurethane foam;
hammers;
jigsaws for precise cutting of wood and metal;
perforator;

spatulas;
hydraulic levels;
roulettes;
metal scissors;
containers for preparing solutions and so on.

The exact set cannot be predicted in advance, because it strongly depends on the chosen technology, on the nuances of the frame house and the amount of work. In any case, you should try to purchase high-quality tools and supplies. All devices purchased specially or already on hand should be carefully checked before starting work. Otherwise, it will not be possible to guarantee the quality and safety of manipulations during insulation. In almost all cases, craftsmen benefit from a square: it is able to both mark exact right angles and measure the actual angles formed by the sides of the part.

Among all hammers, the locksmith type is the best.

It is suitable for processing any kind of surface. On the one hand, such a tool is even and allows you to strike, and on the other, it is pointed, like a chisel. If you have to dismantle building elements and structures, you need a nail puller. It is possible to divide polystyrene and other insulating, decorative elements into parts using saws with a fine tooth. The teeth should be specially bred and honed in a special way.

For the preparation of building mixtures, only mixers with a spiral working part made of strong steel grades are quite suitable. Using rollers, it is easy to apply primers and various paints, even if the surface is very rough or rough. To apply the adhesive solution for the subsequent introduction of the reinforcing mesh, it is recommended to use Swiss ironing tools with teeth. The optimum tooth size is 8 x 8 or 10 x 10 mm and is determined by the manufacturer of the façade systems.

Self coating

In any case, step-by-step instructions require you to mount a layer that protects against moisture. The only exception is made for those situations where such protection is already on the outside (or inside). The reason is simple - bilateral blocking of water deprives it of an exit. The liquid will accumulate inside the walls and gradually destroy them.

The first step is usually to measure the external surfaces and cut the waterproofing material according to their size.

Next comes the vapor barrier. It will not be possible to get around this point even in the case when hydrophobic or substances that neutrally tolerate contact with water are used for insulation. Indeed, besides them, the “pie” includes other details that are much more sensitive to getting wet. When insulating inside and outside, it will be correct to use a special film or polyethylene foam to contain water vapor. Such materials are attached to the racks of the frames, ensuring the tightest possible pressure on the insulation.

Important: wrapping thermal protection blocks in a film is a violation of the standard scheme - until all components of the frame, without exception, are covered from water, the work cannot be considered completed.

Only when all this is finished, they begin to work with the filler itself.

At the same time, safety requirements are strictly observed, which are especially relevant when choosing mineral or glass wool.

The final step is the lining of the walls from the inside. Out of competition in terms of the sum of their qualities, there will be drywall and oriented strand boards. GCR is recommended to be installed if the frame is perfectly flat, then the outer surface will be smooth. But OSB, due to its rigidity, will cope with flaws as efficiently as possible. But in any case, this is only a preparation for a real finish.

Master classes from professionals

Master classes organized by professionals allow you to get the most recent and adequate information on all problems of insulation and related topics. As a result of the consultation, it will become clear what the width of the frame board should be in a particular case, and how to calculate the thickness of a fundamentally new material.

Experienced craftsmen understand safety measures and storage mode, transportation of each insulating coating is better than ordinary amateur builders. Many mistakes are made when attaching structures, drawing up diagrams and determining the sequence of layers in the "pie". But communication with knowledgeable people helps to correct this situation.

When mineral wool is used, care should be taken to prevent condensation from warm rooms from getting on it. But waterproofing and vapor barrier are also fraught with many "pitfalls". The choice of material for sheathing is often dictated by tradition, personal tastes or stereotypes - but meanwhile, thoughtful design is much more pleasant. Professionals will tell you when you can use natural heaters, and when it is better to use artificial ones. It is very important to understand the compatibility of materials with each other: here, again, master classes help.

For information on which insulation keeps heat better, see the next video.

Increasingly, when building a country cottage, frame structures that are easier to install are preferred. Finished panels with a thickness of 12 to 20 cm are not inferior in technical characteristics to stone walls. Building houses from SIP blocks is an inexpensive way to build your own house in a short time. Panels for such structures can be factory-made or be a type-setting structure.

The construction of frame houses has gained its popularity due to the simplicity of building walls, but they are rather poorly susceptible to cold, so they need to be insulated additionally.

When using multilayer "sandwich" panels, you need to think about how to insulate the frame house, which insulation to choose for walls and ceilings.

The post-beam structure, which serves as the frame of the house, is made of durable materials - wood or metal. Blocks of thermal insulation are placed between the racks of the frame of the house. It is better to choose a heater in plates, and not in rolls. Sheets are easier to mount in frame bases. The walls are sheathed, starting from the outside - in this sequence it is easier to fix the vapor barrier and insulation. A membrane wind protection is attached to the crate, followed by a layer of heat insulator, which is protected by a vapor barrier coating.

Thermal insulation materials used in frame structures

There are several possible options to insulate the cottage. All heaters on the market today have their own advantages, allowing you to build a warm, economical home. When choosing a heater in frame structures, it is better to focus on one of the following materials:

Synthetic wool (mineral, fiberglass, slag).
Eco-friendly materials (ecowool, wood fiber wool, reed boards and mats).
Styrofoam.
Extruded polystyrene foam - additional external insulation.
Polyurethane foam.
Foam glass.
Natural heaters: expanded clay, slag, straw, flax tow, cereal husks, etc. are mixed with clay. For such materials, it is necessary to make frame walls of greater depth.

The thickness of the thermal insulation layer is determined based on the capabilities of each insulation, the design of the house and the characteristics of the climatic zone. The multilayer wall as a whole has a thickness of 12 to 40 cm, which, according to its characteristics, corresponds to brickwork of 50 cm. during installation.

Insulation of building walls with mineral wool

Mineral wool is the most common material for warming a house on a frame. A high level of thermal insulation is provided by the fibrous structure of the mineral wool. The air gaps between the particles of the substance provide a high level of protection against noise and cold. An important condition for wool to perform its functions is its correct installation. The pressed plate is attached to the frame walls with a snug fit to wooden or metal racks without creasing and creases of the material. Mineral wool should not be tamped or compressed. It is better to lay cotton wool in layers of 50 mm. The total thickness of the layer should be about 15 cm.

The most highly effective representative of mineral wool is basalt, or stone wool, made in the form of slabs. They can not only insulate the walls, but also provide a reliable level of sound insulation. It is a fire-resistant material, withstands temperatures up to 1000 ° C and does not shrink. Basalt (stone) wool is produced from molten gabrobasalt rocks (95% is stone).

For the installation of energy-saving structures using mineral wool, you will need a minimum set of tools:

knife for trimming excess plates;
a hacksaw with a fine tooth for cutting material.

Among the disadvantages of mineral wool, the following features of this material can be noted:

Fibrous material is able to accumulate moisture, so it is better to pay more attention to the layer of hydro and vapor barrier on the inside and outside of the wall. When the mineral wool gets wet by 2-3%, the heat-insulating properties decrease by 50%. Due to the low moisture-resistant performance, basalt wool is not recommended for floor insulation.
One of the main disadvantages is the presence of formaldehyde in the composition of mineral wool. These carcinogens are harmful to health. To prevent the release of harmful substances into the room, cotton wool is covered with environmentally friendly materials - membrane vapor barriers. It is better to use durable polyethylene for such purposes, as they do, for example, in Canada.
Basalt wool serves up to 25 years. After this period, the walls will lose their energy-saving properties. The heater will have to be replaced with a new one.

On sale you can find glass wool. This material is easy to install, but too fragile for home insulation, sags in vertical structures and is harmful to health both during installation and in the further operation of the building. Slag wool has the highest thermal conductivity among mineral wools. When moisture gets in, slag wool becomes aggressive for metal structures.

Foam-based insulation for frame cottages

For the construction of energy-saving housing, double wall insulation will be required. Styrofoam is a lightweight and inexpensive material that can be used as a thermal insulator inside walls between studs and on the outside of a building. Polyfoam is often used in the manufacture of frame-panel structures assembled in factories. Styrofoam sheets have different sizes and configurations. When buying this material, you need to carefully inspect the panels for cracks.

The advantages of polystyrene include the following indicators:

It is used for insulation of horizontal and vertical surfaces inside and outside the house.
With a smaller layer thickness (5 cm is enough), the quality of thermal insulation is not inferior to other heaters.
Safe for health.

Expanded polystyrene has the same characteristics - a more modern material, in some respects better than the usual foam. It has an aluminum layer. Expanded polystyrene is produced in rolls and in the form of plates. It is easy to install due to the presence of a self-adhesive surface. Styrofoam sheets are placed on a special glue.
Styrofoam has negative qualities. These include:

when burning, it emits acrid smoke (modern analogues have a lower degree of flammability);
has poor sound insulation;
collapses under the action of heat - for external installation, additional protection from sunlight will be required - painting or plastering walls;
possible destruction by rodents.

A new and not very common insulation is foam glass. This is foamed glass, consisting of small cells. The heat insulator is better than its predecessors in many respects. Foam glass is an environmentally friendly substance, easy to attach, has high thermal insulation performance. Protects from external noise, and is also a vapor barrier in itself. The only drawback of foam glass is its high cost.

Seamless eco-friendly insulation for any surface

Heat insulators can be not only in sheets or rolls. There are a number of safe heaters with a loose structure - these are bulk materials, the application of which requires special equipment. Such heaters include ecowool and polyurethane foam. According to some characteristics, bulk insulation is better than sheet counterparts.

Polyurethane foam (PPU) is a relatively new material on the market of heaters, with high rates of heat and sound insulation. The heat-insulating substance consists of two components that are mixed and sprayed between the uprights of the frame structure. Outwardly, it resembles a mounting foam.

With the use of polyurethane foam, roofs, attics, floors under the screed, exterior facades of buildings, internal partitions and walls are insulated. A layer of polyurethane foam of a certain density lies on different surfaces. For example, for facades and floors, the density of the heat insulator is 40-60 kg / m, and for roof insulation - 20-40 kg / m.

Polyurethane foam refers to a new generation of insulation, which have a number of positive qualities:

Thanks to its sticky consistency, PPU adheres to any surface, fills it without leaving joints.
Hardens in a few seconds.
Does not accumulate moisture.
The elasticity of the material allows it to be used on structures of any shape and at an angle.
There is no need to use fasteners, PPU fills all joints and cracks.
Non-flammable, resistant to temperature changes.
Biologically neutral, environmentally friendly.
Service life more than 30 years.

Ecowool belongs to loose environmentally friendly heaters. Thermal insulation particles are 80% cellulose. This adhesive material has the same characteristics as PPU. The difference between ecowool and the above-described heat-insulating agent is several ways of applying it to the surface: dry, wet and wet-adhesive.

During dry installation, ecowool is used to fill the closed space between two panels. The material is blown into the technological hole in the wall of the house. During wet application, cellulose particles are mixed with water, which is sprayed by a special blowing machine. With the wet-adhesive method of installation, water vapor is mixed with the adhesive. The disadvantage of PPU and ecowool is the high cost due to the need to call a professional team.

Natural insulation based on natural materials

Now, when all new modern means of insulating frame houses appear on sale, sawdust concrete is used less frequently. Many experts are skeptical about the use of such products, arguing that a mixture based on sawdust cannot serve for a long time and will rot in a few seasons. The practice of building frame houses shows that buildings that have been in operation since the 60s of the last century have not lost their qualities.

During the shortage of building materials, the use of improvised means was the only possible way to insulate summer cottages. Today, suburban residents can be stopped not only by the age of origin of this material, but also by the laboriousness in its production. Mixing clay with sawdust, shavings, straw is done exclusively by hand. You also need to cut the straw yourself.

It will take a lot of time to produce 1 cubic meter of insulation. And for the thermal insulation of a one and a half-story frame house 6x9 m, it will take about 2 months. Sawdust concrete can be used in a cramped financial situation, because its main advantage is its low price.

Insulation is one of the most important components, without which it is impossible to build a frame house. The energy-saving characteristics of a residential building largely depend on the choice of a heat insulator. Before choosing one of the proposed materials, you need to carefully study the characteristics of each of them and the design features of the cottage. Knowing the requirements for insulation, it will be easier to navigate in all the variety of choices.

To achieve a comfortable stay in the house during the winter period, it is necessary to think about insulation even at the construction stage. This will prevent the penetration of cold air into the room and ensure compliance with the temperature and humidity conditions. Insulation of a frame house can be done by hand. Step-by-step instructions for each type of structure are given below.

Why is it necessary to insulate the house

With the help of thermal protection of structures in contact with cold air, the following problems can be solved:

condensation from inside the premises;
the appearance of dampness, mold and fungus;
increase in heating costs;
non-compliance with the temperature regime of the dwelling and a decrease in the comfort of living in it.

In addition, a competent technology for warming a frame house can extend the life of the main structures of the building.

Materials for thermal protection

Home insulation can be carried out using the following materials:

mineral wool;
extruded polystyrene foam;

Types of mineral wool

There are two classifications of this heater. The first is based on the raw materials used to make:

basalt;
glass;
slag.

The most popular is the insulation of the walls of a frame house and other structures with basalt mineral wool.

The second classification is based on the form of insulation release:

rigid boards;
roll material.

It should be noted that glass wool is produced only in rolls.

Rigid slabs that can withstand fairly high loads are suitable for floors. Insulation of the walls of a frame house can be carried out using both plates and rolls. For attic roofing, it is best to use slab material. This will allow you to easily insulate with mineral wool between the rafters.

Insulated frame house structures

Before insulating a frame house, it is necessary to decide which structures require this additional event.

With your own hands, you can protect the following elements of the building from the cold:

the floor of the first floor;
attic floor (if the attic is cold);
mansard roof;
exterior walls.

Do-it-yourself insulation work can be carried out both outside and inside. It is best to mount the thermal insulation between the racks, as this will ensure the competent work of the material. Warming a wooden house with mineral wool from the inside of the wall will greatly simplify the work and allow you to hold events in all weather conditions.

Double-layer insulation - a guarantee of 100% thermal protection

An external insulation scheme is possible if the insulation from the inside is not sufficient and additional insulation is required. Peculiarities:

the outer thermal insulation material must not form a vapor barrier. Otherwise, the resulting condensate from water vapor will accumulate between the two layers of insulation, which is fraught with the formation of mold and mildew;
house wall thickening

Based on the foregoing, it follows that the thermal protection of a wooden house from the outside with mineral wool should be carried out only in exceptional cases, when the scheme from the inside is not applicable.

Wall insulation

Double layer insulation (double frame)

To guarantee a comfortable stay during the winter period, it is important to take care of the thermal protection of the walls. To reliably insulate the walls with basalt or other wool from the outside with your own hands, you need two-layer insulation. Follow the following layer order:

interior decoration;
vapor barrier;
mineral wool insulation (2 layers with offset racks);
windproof membrane;
OSB-3 on the crate;
exterior decoration of the facade.

It is important to remember that the scheme for using this type of insulation requires the obligatory presence of a ventilated layer with a thickness of at least 4 cm. This is necessary due to the high hygroscopicity of the material. In order for the insulation to retain its performance characteristics, it is necessary to remove excess moisture from its surface. This is ensured by the circulation of cold air outside the surface of the mineral wool.

Most often, the technology for insulating the walls of a frame house is the following scheme: the material is not laid on any side, but between the racks of the frame. This reduces the overall thickness of the wall and significantly reduces the construction time of the building. Mineral wool is fixed between the racks of the frame, after which sheathing is performed on both sides.

Vapor barrier and wind protection during do-it-yourself work are located similarly to the previous cases: steam protection from the inside, and wind protection from the outside.

With thermal protection of the walls from the inside under the hinged facade, the order of the layers is as follows:

interior decoration of the premises;
vapor barrier;
mineral wool;
superdiffusion membrane;
wall construction;
facade decoration.

Floor insulation

For a wooden frame house, overlappings along the beams are characteristic. When arranging thermal insulation with your own hands, insulation boards are laid between the supporting structures of the floor. You can also use rolled materials, but for their spreading, you will need to pre-install the lower crate or solid flooring.

When insulating with mineral wool in the form of rigid slabs, it is better to take the step of the wooden floor beams so that 580 mm remain clean between them. This will provide maximum convenience for working with 600 mm wide plates and complete filling of the space with heat-insulating material.

When doing do-it-yourself activities, you need to remember that the vapor barrier is located from the inside of the room, and the waterproofing is from the cold air side. In the case of intermediate floors, steam protection should be provided from the side of the ceiling.

Attic floor insulation

It is also important to remember that when working with any type of mineral wool, it is better to prevent particles of the material from getting on the skin and into the lungs. For this, it is best to use gloves and a mask. Also, workers must have special clothing that completely covers the arms and legs.

Pitched roof insulation

Do-it-yourself installation technology is similar to ceilings. The pitch of the rafters, as in the previous case, is selected with respect to a clear distance of 580 mm.

Work is performed in the following order:

installation of the truss system;
laying a waterproofing layer over the rafters;
thermal insulation;
installation of vapor barrier;
upper and lower crate;
laying roofing material;
ceiling interior trim.

Preparatory work

Before properly insulating a frame house, it is necessary to prepare the surfaces. To do this, perform simple actions:

processing of all structures of a wooden house with the help of antiseptic compounds to prevent damage to them by various microorganisms;
cleaning the surface from dirt and dust;
elimination of significant inconsistencies.

These simple do-it-yourself manipulations will provide the insulation with a reliable connection to the structures and the longest possible long service life.

Frame construction technologies, as already proven by experience, provide high operational parameters of housing. One of the advantages that frame house building enthusiasts do not forget to mention is environmental friendliness. Frame houses are often referred to as healthy housing. We can say that this is so if certain key factors are provided during the construction and insulation of the building:

Environmentally friendly materials

At the heart of frame technologies is wood. You can’t argue with the fact that this natural material, despite the rapid development of today’s most “space” materials and technologies, has not lost its relevance over the centuries, remaining today one of the most popular in housing construction.

Of course, frame technologies do not stand still, and many modern building innovations are actively used in frame housing construction today. Although supporters of "frameworks" like to emphasize that in them the likelihood of any harmful particles from the materials and chemicals used being released into the air is minimized. And in order for the house to be always supplied with clean water, classic frame buildings use autonomous sources and a well-developed filter system.

energy efficiency

Along with mineral-cotton slabs, frame houses are often insulated with foam or extruded polystyrene foam slabs.

It is spoken of in a context that builders of "Canadian houses" are usually proud of. The walls of the "frameworks" really have excellent thermal insulation characteristics, maintaining comfortable conditions for the internal microclimate both in winter frosts and in summer. It is generally accepted, and this is not without reason, that the owners of frame buildings significantly save not only on heating, but also on ventilation and air conditioning.
An additional touch that the defenders of frame housing construction do not forget to mention is that alternative energy sources, for example, solar collectors, often successfully “fit” into frame houses. During the construction of frame houses, they are also well used, recreated from recycled materials, the so-called. recycling materials. The classic argument in favor of “frame housing construction” was the argument about the optimal use of materials - with frame buildings, the amount of construction waste is minimized.

About how to build warm frame house alone, with your own hands, is quite interesting and vividly described in the next video. Watch, think, discuss. Someone will definitely benefit.

Let's go directly to the issue of warming frame houses.

Wall insulation: thermal insulation materials

Insulation of the walls of frame-type houses is usually performed in the intervals between the racks of the frame. Let's take a closer look at what options for heaters can be that are optimally suited for the walls of a frame house and how exactly to carry out insulation.

I propose in this article to consider such heaters suitable for thermal insulation of frame structures:

Mineral wool (with a density of 30-50 kg / m3;
Glass wool (with a density of 17-20 kg / m3);
Styrofoam (with a density of 25 kg / m3);
Extruded polystyrene foam (with a density of 20-35 kg / m3);

Please note: We did not consider in the article such types of natural heaters as sawdust, straw, flax, slag and the like, the use of which requires an increase in wall thickness compared to the heaters that we indicated in the list. At the same time, each of the heaters not included in the consideration deserves its own consideration; other articles of our journal are devoted to them.

As for the heaters listed in the list we have reviewed, mineral wool of the density indicated above deserves special recommendations, because. with all other equal parameters, it has a number of advantages that users pay attention to in their reviews:

Not combustible;
Turns off the sound;
It is convenient in work (comparing with EPPS).
Unlike glass wool, mineral wool of the required density in vertical structures is somewhat more convenient, in any case, it does not crumple and does not settle).

Please note: The fact that the authors of this article recommend mineral wool for use does not mean at all that other heaters are not recommended. This is their opinion based on their own observations and research, an attempt to answer the question of which of the heaters is best used to insulate the walls of a frame house.

Important nuances

Any wool (stone, glass wool, mineral wool) should be in slabs. Roll will not work.
The thickness of the insulation (within 100-250 mm) is calculated for a specific area of the house, taking into account the climatic zone.
Thermal insulation boards are laid in layers of 50 mm with a mandatory overlap to avoid cold bridges.

Technology

Wall insulation is made between the racks of the frame. If you took mineral wool or glass wool for insulation, they are placed between the uprights. Sheets of Styrofoam or Styrofoam are cut to size and after insertion are foamed with polyurethane foam.

In places of the jib, the insulation is cut to the desired size and inserted into the space between the jib and the rack. When the jibs are smaller than the rack, a half-meter layer of insulation can be laid on top of the jibs from the outside.

Exterior wall cladding of a frame house

Such a skin is called rough. It is important. And when we are asked whether it is possible to immediately attach the finishing material directly to the frame racks, we explain that the presence of sheathing, along with all the slopes of the frame, will form its rigid structure, the space of the frame. Both sheathing and lower / upper cuts are required. In the absence of one or the other, the frame will not have the necessary rigidity.

Materials for rough sheathing

Let's talk about the most actively used:

Oriented strand board is considered a reliable, inexpensive material, besides it has an attractive appearance, reminiscent of natural wood.

OSB - oriented strand board.
Oriented strand board, OSB - material in sheets of several layers of wood chips (thin chips), glued with complex chemical resins with the addition of synthetic waxes and boric acid. Wood shavings in the layers are stacked differently. In the outer layers, it is oriented longitudinally. In the internal - transversely.
OSB-1 - used in conditions of low humidity (in furniture production, for sheathing in construction, for packaging)
OSB-2 - is used for the manufacture of load-bearing structures in rooms with a dry microclimate.
OSB-3 - used for the manufacture of load-bearing structures in rooms with high humidity.
OSB-4 - is used for the manufacture of various kinds of structures designed for significant mechanical loads in conditions of high humidity.
OSB with one-sided varnishing.
OSB laminated (used for reusable formwork during concrete work, withstands up to 50 cycles.
OSB grooved.

Cement particle board is about twice as dense and heavier than OSB, which makes it difficult to lift it up for floor cladding in the absence of scaffolding and winches

TsSP - Cement particle board.
Cement bonded particle board) - sheet building material of a composite type of wood shavings, Portland cement with the addition of special additives to reduce the harmful effects of wood extracts on cement. DSP is used quite actively in construction, including frame construction, for external and internal wall cladding. Cement particle board competes with its competitors such as chipboard, plywood, flat slate, drywall, gypsum board, OSB. One of the disadvantages of DSP is considered to be low bending strength. But since the material itself exhibits sufficient strength to longitudinal deformation, it is traditionally used to strengthen the frame structure of houses.

SML - Glass magnesite sheet.
The actual characteristics of the LSU of various manufacturing plants in fact may differ markedly from each other. On ordinary sheets, as a rule, there is no marking, which makes it impossible to distinguish between sheets of different classes and manufacturers. Mandatory marking is available only on panels Premium Standard of Quality.

This material can also be found in the form of such names as "novolist", "glass-magnesite", "magnesite plates", "stroylist" and simply "magnesite" - so you need to understand that this is all about the same thing. This is a sheet building and finishing material made on the basis of magnesia binder. The composite composition includes caustic magnesite, magnesium chloride, foamed perlite plus fiberglass (as a reinforcing material). Sometimes a non-woven synthetic material is also used. There are Russian manufacturing plants, but mostly they are imported from China (it has long held the lead).
Suggested thicknesses are 3mm, 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm. The most commonly used sheet format: 1220 x 2440 mm.
The most popular density is from 750 to 1100 kg/cu.m. Colors - from white to gray-blue.
Some classes of LSU are successfully used in wet rooms, the material is also used for outdoor work. Differs in the high durability and good adhesion. Glass-magnesite sheet is used for finishing, decorating sheets with acrylic paints.

Please note: All materials listed will require a fine finish. Siding has become popular. Some people are quite happy with just plastering the walls. It is appropriate to put thin layers of foam plastic with a density of 25 kg / m3, 30 mm or extruded polystyrene foam of the same density and thickness under the plaster. Plaster layers can be applied to the mesh without insulation, but it must be borne in mind that in this case the risk of cracking is higher.

Board

Sometimes you can find tips-recommendations to leave the boarding as a fine finish. It must be understood that the board for these purposes must be properly processed. And we must remember that in this case it is necessary to arrange wind and water protection of the wall under the board in a special way.

Important! It is not necessary to sew up the frame with a board without making a preliminary rough OSB lining. If a board is used as a fine finish, it is fixed on top of the OSB. Why is that? The fact is that if the board is nailed directly to the racks of the frame, without OSB, the board can be twisted, and such a danger will occur at least twice a year during the off-season. And our task is to give our frame spatial rigidity, and not subject it to senseless additional loads in the form of unpredictable consequences from the behavior of the skin. Based on this, we recommend boarding only according to OSB.

In this part, we will describe in detail the process of OSB sheathing (as the most versatile and most commonly used option). In addition, compared to all of the above options, OSB boards have a noticeably greater moisture resistance. OSB sheets are larger in area, which will make it possible to make fewer joints.

For sheathing, OSB boards with a thickness of 10-12 mm are usually taken.
OSB fastening to racks, upper and lower trim, fastener step.

OSB is attached to the racks, the joint runs in the middle of the rack.

OSB sheets should cover the bottom strapping entirely. According to the upper trim, the option can be selected depending on whether the house has one or two floors.

If a one-story house is being built, the upper trim is completely covered, and the edges of the OSB boards are flush with the edge of the trim.
If the house is two-story, it would be better to arrange the sheets in such a way that they also go to the racks of the 2nd floor and the racks of the 1st, and let the upper trim overlap approximately in the middle of the sheet. This is not a prerequisite, but it is recommended, as it will give the entire frame structure additional rigidity.

Mounting method in the case of a two-story house

The first video gives tips on how to insulate a frame house so that it remains "breathable".

The following video, using a specific example, talks about one of the main stages in the construction of a frame house - its insulation. Let us consider in detail what the wall and floor insulation pie consists of. You will learn how to competently insulate the under-roof space. Get many other useful tips and instructions from the expert.

The following video provides instructions on how to properly insulate a frame house using TechnoNIKOL mineral wool:

In the following video instruction, experts give recommendations on how best to insulate the walls of a frame house using URSA TERRA insulation, which reliably protects the walls of the house from any bad weather and cold weather. The video shows how to properly install URSA TERRA to avoid heat loss. An important point of insulation is the installation of vapor barrier and wind protection. For this purpose, URSA SECO films and membranes were chosen, which are optimally combined with URSA thermal insulation.

Steam and waterproofing and wind protection of the walls of a frame house

These functions for the outer walls of a frame house are performed by a special superdiffusion membrane with a vapor permeability of 800 g/sq. m per day or more.

Attention: You can find recommendations saying that it is not necessary to use a membrane, but you can take waterproofing films or polyethylene instead. Our experts oppose the use of film or polyethylene as wind and waterproofing in such structures. Any film has low vapor permeability (up to 40 g/sq.m per day) compared to membranes. This means that the film simply cannot cope with the removal of moisture from the insulation. And this is absolutely necessary, because. in the insulation - the dew point (see. Dew point. How to determine the dew point in the wall with various types of insulation), and this is its legal location in this design. Moisture must be allowed to vent. A membrane with the above vapor permeability copes with this task.

The placement of the superdiffusion membrane in the wall structure depends on what the rough lining and fine finish are.

Insulation of the outer walls of a frame house in a section

Important aspects of wall vapor barrier

The vapor barrier of the frame structure is carried out with a vapor barrier film. It is attached to the racks of the frame close to the insulation from the inside of the room using a construction stapler. The joints are overlapped with an allowance of 10-15 cm.

If you take polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene as a heater, vapor barrier is also needed. These heaters themselves do not gain moisture, but in addition to them, there are wooden frame elements in the thickness of the walls, and they need to be protected from vapors from inside the room.

All joints of the vapor barrier must be carefully glued with special double-sided tape.

Vapor barrier can be made with foil foamed polyethylene, this material is convenient because it does not affect the thickness of the base thermal insulation of the wall.

Internal lining of walls

For internal lining of the walls of a frame house, you can use, for example, popular drywall or the same OSB. The latter, according to many experts, is preferable. The fact is that if sheets of drywall are fixed on the racks of the frame from the inside, the racks, and they are by no means perfectly even, take on all the unevenness of the skin. As a result, drywall will need more leveling layers. As for OSB, its plates are more rigid, they will better smooth out bumps.

Attention: Internal lining is often performed with popular MDF panels. If the panels are not laminated, they should be used carefully, they are afraid of moisture. And certainly they are not recommended for use in rooms such as kitchens, bathrooms, bathrooms.

On OSB or drywall, a fine finish is performed. Materials like lining are also mounted on OSB sheathing, you should not do this directly to the racks, without sheathing.