How to make a bed with your own hands - from the choice of materials to the finished product. We make a wooden bed with our own hands A wooden bed

It is very difficult to create all the conditions for a comfortable life in a small house. A kitchen-dining room, a bedroom, a bathroom, a workplace are areas without which a modern house is inconceivable. But even in a small area, you can not only place everything you need, but also do it in style!

There are practically only three main ways to rationally use space in a small house:

• development of space in height - the creation of the second tier;
• installation of folding multifunctional furniture;
• maximum use of corners.

Here are some prime examples of creative ways to increase the space efficiency of a small residential building.

Raising beds overhead

Most of the space in the house, as a rule, is occupied by the bed. And this statement becomes especially obvious when the bed comes off the floor, freeing up a few scarce square meters. The bed can be raised on racks, or you can hang it from the ceiling!

Creating the second tier

If the height of the room allows, then it is advisable to raise not only the bed, but also the whole tier above the floor, creating almost a second floor.

We use folding compact and multifunctional furniture

In this matter, the fantasy of furniture designers and designers has no boundaries: wardrobe-bed-bathroom, shelves-TV-wardrobe-bed, bed-cabinet-wardrobe, sofa-2-story bed, etc.

Use the corners of the rooms to good use

The corners of the rooms are usually empty or occupied by something completely useless, while this is one of the most capacious places in the house, which can accommodate, for example, a corner desk, a TV table, or even special corner drawers.

The beginning was, as usual, banal: the bed under me fell apart again. There is nothing surprising in this event (especially considering my considerable weight, as well as the fact that the bed was practically the same age as me).

I will not hide also that in a furniture store, when I saw a kind of bed, which was quite shaky and consisting of compressed sawdust, a toad literally began to choke me. Moreover, these “beds” cost as much as if they were a real marble bed with gilding ... It’s not in my rules to pay for something that will then have to be finalized, improved and corrected, as well as repaired.

It was then that the thought came to my mind: why not make such a bed yourself? By the way, this idea was subsequently implemented by me, however, not everything turned out to be as simple as it seemed to me at first glance. It is worth noting the fact that the construction of the bed took almost two months (but, of course, given the factor of human laziness, the need to do the main work and many other circumstances). But let's start in order.

There will be step by step photos and some text that will describe each step.

So, at first I bought boards for this good cause. I needed 14 linear meters of good (but as it turned out, raw) floorboard, the width of which was 120 mm and the thickness was 30 mm. All this took 990 rubles. I also bought 2 sheets of plywood 10 mm each (its size is 1.5x1.5 meters) - 1230 rubles, wood glue, paint, brushes, various screws, sandpaper, edge tape (it still remains a mystery to me why I need it needed?), legs (which I also did not use), a set of corners, which was only partially needed. All this was spent 2354 rubles.

As a result, the total cost was 4574 rubles, but that was not all, since there were also bolts, nuts, stud screws, a can of paint, a hardboard sheet. It also took about 850-1000 rubles, more accurate information can not be given now.

Yes, now I am no longer surprised why we have such high prices for furniture in our country. But it’s too late to change anything, moreover, for this whole thing, I also bought a jigsaw. As it turned out, this is an amazingly useful thing in any home. The money spent on it returned incredibly quickly, and therefore this tool was not included in the list of committed costs. I already had a screwdriver and a drill.

But let's get back to the process itself.

My first task was to cut plywood. It was then that I realized that I had bought two whole sheets in vain. A rectangle 195 by 92 could easily be cut out of one sheet of plywood, the size of which is 150 by 150. Then I generally found plywood, 2x1.5 meters in size, so you can generally cut out a whole sheet, but that was already later ...

The next step was to work on the boards. It was here that the curvature of my hands first of all came to light, because I could not manage to make the drank even. Well, what can you do, even though this fact is not particularly pleasant.

The frame is complete!

Plywood is attached to the frame with glue and screws.

Using glue, we bait the spars from the ends with screws.

The glue was pretty good. For the test, I glued two pieces of plywood. In the end, I just couldn't break them. The plywood cracked and flaked, but there was nothing in the seam.

Here the consequences of my crooked hands are already clearly visible. Yes, and the tree showed that it was not dry enough, as it seemed, because now it has dried up and warped a little.

Nothing can be done - you have to cover the joint with a mixture of glue and sawdust.

The boards began to literally “go by helicopter”. But I also planned to make bed legs out of them.

Well, there is nothing terrible in this, besides, I have leftover plywood.

We make the base for the legs from plywood, and then we make the legs themselves from short pieces of boards. By the way, you need to make them so that they do not bend.

The legs of the bed will be removable, and will be fastened with stud screws. I drilled holes in the boards so that a thick stud screw (8 mm) would not break it. I drilled holes at the same time in the plywood, which will be fastened with them, so that everything is tolerable. Next, I simply drilled holes in the plywood up to 9 mm so that everything would fit without problems.

In order not to waste time with a wrench over each stud, I decided to screw two nuts on each and just lock them. Then everything was done with a cordless screwdriver.

Do not be surprised why a cordless screwdriver needs a wire. It just leads to the battery (car).

Everything, now you can proceed to the final assembly. Glue…

... nuts ...

... glue again ...

…and, of course, screws!

As I said, the paint was not enough. Moreover, the work piled on, but then my mother came to visit, who bought the paint herself and painted everything herself.

According to her, the pink one is very personal. But, in my opinion, not so much. But nothing can be done about it, it will still be practically invisible.

And I have already started fixing the "heels".

"Heels" are ready. They also act as adjustable feet.

At first, I planned to level the plywood with glue, and only then sand it - that's why I bought sandpaper. But then I decided not to do this, I bought a sheet of hardboard, cut it to size ...

... and then pasted. It's hard to make sure it sticks straight. By the way, the glue for this case was barely enough. But at first I scolded myself for having bought a large bottle. I thought that half of the glue would remain.

I decided to take the backs and sides from the old bed. The backs turned out to be just the right size, but the sidewalls were too short. It happened from the fact that I decided to lengthen the bed a little. But at the same time, I did not take into account that the sidewalls are attached to the bed through planks. This added another 3 centimeters. Well, nothing, I decided to go to the store and buy a panel that matches the color (plus another 420 rubles). True, it is worth noting the fact that even the narrowest one turned out to be twice as wide as the old one ...

… but it turned out so much more beautiful!

... and I decided to seal the joint with edging tape, it was not in vain that it was bought. She, however, turned out to be a little darker, but nothing. It is convenient to glue it - glue has already been applied to it, and therefore you just need to iron it with a warm iron.

On the side, I also decided to add a ribbon.

It didn’t take long to install the backrest, I already have experience with this.

You can sum up: the whole apartment is littered with sawdust, about 6,000 rubles were spent, it turned out a little clumsy, but you can’t see anything under the panels (of course, if you don’t look closely). But most importantly, it is impossible to convey the feeling of how good it was when my bed did not even creak after I climbed on it.

When it became necessary to add another bed in the country house, it was decided at the family council that it would be a double bed. The dimensions of 1.6 by 2.0 meters were determined for a reason, but because this is a very common mattress size (the same in a city apartment) and its purchase will not cause problems. And so it turned out later.

I will make a double bed according to my drawings and of course with my own hands. I will carry out the installation right at the installation site, having previously prepared all the details.
The article turned out to be voluminous detailed, so be patient.

If you are going to make such a double bed with your own hands, then below you will find details, drawings with dimensions, photographs, as well as a 3D model of this bed.

Since the project is quite difficult, before starting work, you need to prepare tools and materials.

Tools

• Circular saw.
• Drill.
• Set of drills.
• Screwdriver.
• Electric jigsaw or wood saw.
• Sander.
• Construction corner.
• Clamps.
• Roulette.
• Pencil.
• Putty knife.

materials

• Bar 100*100*330 mm - 4 pcs. (bed legs).
• Board 195*45*1690 mm - 4 pcs. (front - back frame board and headboard).
• Board 95*45*1690 mm - 1 pc. (back of the bed).
• Board 195*45*2000 mm - 2 pcs. (side boards of the frame).
• Board 95*45*1400 mm - 2 pcs. (internal front and rear frame boards).
• Board 95*45*1800 mm - 2 pcs. (inner side boards of the frame).
• Board 95*45*1910 mm - 1 pc. (internal longitudinal frame board).
• Lamel for a bed (820*63*8 mm curved plywood) - 24 pcs.
• Latoderzhateli laid on for shooting (under the lamella 63 * 8 mm) - 48 pcs.
• Birch dowel 10x50 (30pcs)
• Steel corner 50 * 50 mm - 12 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws 5 * 80 mm - 150 pcs. (for assembling bed parts).
• Self-tapping screws 3.5 * 35 mm - 50 pcs. (for fastening steel corners).
• Self-tapping screws 3.5 * 12 mm - 100 pcs. (for attaching lat holders).
• Joiner's glue.
• Wood putty.

According to materials:

As a result, I bought 2 boards 195*45*6000 mm and 2 boards 95*45*6000 mm. All boards are dry and planed.
I cut it to size on the spot in the store (for a fee), so all the materials fit into the trunk of my car with the rear seats folded down.
As a result, I "killed" two birds with one stone: they sawed the boards exactly to size and saved on shipping.
I had a piece of timber 100 * 100 mm after the construction of the barn, and that is why I decided to use it to make the legs of the bed. You can use any other material as legs.

Look for lamellas (lats), as well as lat holders, in specialized stores or online stores; they are rare in ordinary building hypermarkets, and if there is, then in a small assortment.

By size:

Using the basic dimensions for the desired mattress size (I have 2000 * 1600 * 180 mm), you can change the dimensions to those that are convenient for you. For example, the height of the legs of the bed or the height of the boards of the sidewalls.
The only thing that is not worth it is to reduce the thickness of the inner longitudinal board (45 mm), which divides the bed in half, because. this value is determined by the seat of the lato-holders on one side and the other.

Bed assembly: diagrams and dimensions

So, if all the tools are prepared, and the materials are cut to size, then you can start assembling the bed. And let's start, of course, with the base frame.

Frame manufacturing

We start the assembly with the main boards and legs of the bed, fastening them together with self-tapping screws.

Using clamps, we fix the legs to the side boards. We drill holes in the boards - the diameter of the drill should correspond to the diameter of the self-tapping screw. Don't forget to countersink the holes for the screw head.

Side and center boards should be fastened 10 mm lower, because. they will be equipped with lato-holders with lamellae. The photo below shows why this should be done.

Before assembly, I smeared all the details with carpentry glue and for reliability (reliability is never superfluous), I reinforced all the corners in the joints of the bed frame with steel corners. You can see it in the photo below.

Under the middle board for reinforcement, I made and installed a leg-stand from a piece of timber. You can use any other design, for example, make boards from scraps or buy a finished cylindrical metal if you find the right size.

Sanding and sanding the frame

Now that the bed frame is basically ready, you can begin to improve the appearance, namely, puttying the mounting holes, as well as other visible wood defects. To do this, use a special wood putty.

Apply the first layer of putty, trying to fill the holes as much as possible, leave to dry, following the manufacturer's recommendations on the package.

Important! Do not try to putty all the problem areas the first time - it still won't work. Correct puttying should be done in 2-3 stages, with intermediate drying and abrasive treatment.

Treat the dried putty with a sandpaper with a coarse abrasive, for example P80. I used an orbital sander with velcro pads. It is possible to grind with a piece of skin on a flat bar, but this is more laborious.

After blowing off the remaining dust, apply a second layer of putty and repeat the drying-sanding stage.

At the end, we grind the entire surface of the frame to a pleasant smoothness. First with P80 abrasive and then with finer P120-180 abrasive. Of course there was a lot of dust...

While the putty dries, we do not waste time - you can start making the headboard, unless of course you need it. Below I will tell you how I did it.

Assembling the backboard

Since the double bed turned out to be quite heavy, I decided to make the backrest removable, in case the bed needs to be moved to another room.

For the headboard, you can take a ready-made furniture board, or you can do it yourself. I bought two six-meter boards and from the leftovers, I just got three trimmings for making the back (they are higher in the list of materials).

I decided to splice three boards into a shield using dowels and glue. In order for the holes for the dowels to match perfectly, I applied the following “trick” - marking the centers of the holes on the edge of the board, I punched carnations without a hat into them.
So that all the cloves stick out at the same height, I hammered them with pliers as in the photo below.

Having combined the second board from above along the edges, he tapped on top with a mallet and received reciprocal dents on it.
To drill holes for the dowels to a certain depth, I glued red tape on the drill - so that it could be seen.

Having prepared the holes (clean from sawdust and cut off burrs), I put dowels on the glue (pictured below). Having smeared the mating edge with carpentry glue, with the help of a mallet I drive the second board into place.
The same operation must be done with the third board of the headboard.

Due to the lack of wide clamps (I will definitely have to buy), I am smart and with the help of a car jack (I used it for laying floors) I squeeze a shield of three boards in the doorway and wait a couple of hours until the glue dries.

After gluing, I send the shield for trimming and grinding. The most suitable place for this dusty work is the yard.

Having cut off the upper corners, I grind with an orbital, P80 abrasive. By grinding, I remove small steps at the junction of the boards and sharp corners.

The result is a pretty decent shield for the headboard.

It remains to put the back in place and fix it. To do this, I do the same operation with dowels, only without glue.

Installation of slats

Since the length of the lamellas exceeds the required one, they should be cut to the desired size.

Having put lato-holders on the ends of the lamellas, we fix them to the support boards with self-tapping screws 3.5 * 12 mm. The distance between the lamellas in my case is 92 mm.

3D model of a double bed

Click on the picture, wait for it to load and use the left mouse button to rotate the model. Rotate the mouse wheel to zoom in and out. Watch in full screen - icon in the lower right corner. Exit full screen - Esc key.
To fully view 3D models, you need to download the SkethUp viewer program from the official website (for free) and install it on your computer. You can download this model for viewing by clicking on the logo in the lower left corner of the viewing window.

Now it is fashionable to make furniture at home on your own, and every year the number of home craftsmen is increasing. Someone prefers to purchase blanks and assemble the necessary furniture from them, while someone does all the work on their own from start to finish. A homemade bed can be very simple or with intricate shapes and patterns. It's not just a matter of skill and availability of equipment - personal preferences and financial capabilities play an important role. In this article we will tell you how to make a bed with your own hands from various materials.

In order for the product to please and to be used for a long time, you need to approach the matter very responsibly, realizing the limits of your capabilities. It is necessary to choose a suitable model and, taking into account the material used, prepare a tool.

Required Tools

Depending on which material is selected, certain tools will be required to work with it.

For working with metal

• Electric welding machine.
• Bulgarian.
• File.
• Metal brush.
• Electric drill.
• Roulette.

To work with wood

• Electric jigsaw. If the product is made of boards, you can get by with a hacksaw for wood.
• Screwdriver.
• Electric drill.
• Roulette.
• Building corner.
• Pencil.
• Plane.
• Chisel.
• Grinder.

As for consumables, we will talk about this separately, considering this or that model.

Material selection

Bed materials:

1. Metal corner.
2. Profile or round pipe.
3. An array of wood.
4. Plywood.

The above materials can be used either individually or in combination. So, a metal bed can be equipped with wooden backs, and a plywood product is assembled on a frame made of timber. There can be many options, and you can figure it out in more detail by reading the article.

Location

The first step is to clearly determine what the dimensions of the future bed will be, taking into account its location. It is possible that you are modernizing the bedroom, changing its design, then you can move away from the usual bed placement patterns and find a new place for it. If so, here are a few tips to help you.

• Do not install the bed with the headboard to the window opening, as if the window is open, there will be a draft, and the head can be blown out.
• If you place the bed with the headboard towards the doorway, then it will not be possible to see who enters the bedroom.
• It is better not to hang a chandelier over the bed. It can break loose and fall on a person lying in bed.
• In uninsulated houses, the outer walls are very cold, so it is better not to put the bed in such places.
• A shelf not securely nailed to the wall above your head can also cause a lot of trouble.
• In a narrow bedroom, a bed located in the center of the room will not allow you to move freely. In addition, this arrangement can cause discomfort.
• Many people leave a place for a laptop at the head of the bed. Note that this "time thief" will deprive you of many hours of good rest in this case.

It may seem that there is no room for a bed in the bedroom at all, but this is not so. We only gave recommendations, and you decide for yourself how relevant they are in your case.

Wooden bed

Don't let the apparent simplicity of the design fool you. You need to tune in to the fact that you have to work hard to make a bed out of solid wood. If you are determined, then there is every chance to do something original, while saving money. It is quite natural that it is not easy to decide on the design of the bed right away, so first look at some photos of wood products.

Photo of wooden beds

Having chosen the product you like, you can find a similar drawing on the Internet or draw it yourself, taking into account the dimensions of the room and personal preferences. Often, home craftsmen take a drawing of a bed and remake it for themselves, removing or adding something.

From array

If you are not going to sleep on boards, then when planning the size of the bed, you need to take into account the dimensions of the mattress. If it has not yet been purchased, then you need to take care of this in advance or find out the standard sizes on the selling sites and start from this data. If you plan to make a bed of non-standard sizes, it is important to know that the mattress will have to be made to order.

A custom-made mattress will cost a little more.

It is clear that in a relatively small article it will not be possible to describe the manufacture of several wooden beds, and we are not striving for this. Based on the example given, it will be possible to understand how to assemble a bed from an array.

Let's look at an example of making a wooden bed for a 200 × 160 cm mattress, if there is a minimum of tools - only the most necessary ones.

The actual dimensions of the mattress often differ from those declared by the manufacturer, and to a smaller extent. Having purchased a mattress, measure it, and then adjust the dimensions of the manufactured bed to fit it.

If there is no drawing with a bed suitable for the size of the mattress, then you can take any one you like as a basis, redoing it to fit your size. If the design is very simple, then you can draw a sketch yourself.

Let's say that after checking the dimensions of the mattress, it turned out that its length and width are one centimeter less than the declared ones - 199 × 159 cm. You will need the following material:

• Bar 50 × 40 mm, length 209 cm - 19 pcs.
• Planed board 22 × 100 mm, length 159.5 cm - 18 pcs.
• PVA glue (furniture).
• Self-tapping screws 41 and 65 mm.

Having a clear idea of ​​the quantity and size of the required material, you can go to the store for it.

Making a frame

You can assemble the frame on the floor or on four stools.

So, we need to make a rectangle with internal dimensions of 200x160 cm, which corresponds to the dimensions of the mattress + 1 cm of tolerance. Each side of the frame will consist of three bars assembled into a single structure.

• Of 19 pcs. purchased timber 40 × 50 mm, you need to choose 4 pcs. the most even and with a minimum number of knots.
• For further work, you need to saw off the excess at a right angle. With sufficient skills, you can mark the beam, and then, using a building corner, draw a cut line. If you cannot cut evenly with a hacksaw along the line, then it is better to use a miter box.
• You should get 2 bars of 160 cm each and 2 bars of 208 cm each (internal size of the length of the bed 200 cm + 2 bars of 4 cm each).
• The cleanest side of the bars will be used as the front (top of the bed), so we will lay the bars down with this side.
• You will need 4 more bars with the same dimensions. You also need to cut 2 bars of 200 cm each, and 2 bars of 168 cm each (internal size of the width of the bed 160 cm + 2 bars of 4 cm each).
• For the frame to be strong, the corner joints must be overlapped, so for the second row, the bars of a different size are used, which we cut out last.
• Glue is applied to the bars of the first layer, and then the bars of the second row are laid and attracted with self-tapping screws. Excess glue must be removed immediately, otherwise it will interfere with the work on grinding the surface.
• Now the bars of the third row are attached in the same way.

• It is necessary to check that the corners of the bed are assembled at an angle of 90˚. To do this, we measure the dimensions of the assembled frame diagonally - they should be the same.
• After the glue dries, you can continue to work.
• Since our mattress is 159 cm wide, this size is quite large - the boards we use can sag. To exclude this, in the center of the bed, from one back to the other, from below, you need to make a stiffener. For its manufacture, you will need 2 bars 2 m long each. They are also fastened together and installed in the same plane with the bottom of the bed. This is clearly visible in the photo.

The bed being made has 4 legs located at the corners, but for safety, you can set the fifth point of support in the center - then the base will definitely not bend.

• The legs will be made from two bars 40 × 50 mm, fastened to each other. Their height is selected according to the preference of the owner in such a way that they will be attached to the bottom two bars.
• Having glued and fixed the legs with screws, we wait until the glue dries, and only after that we turn the bed over to the position in which it will now be constantly located.

• To make the base for the mattress along the sidewalls of the bed frame, you need to fix the remaining beam 50 × 40 mm (or existing trimmings), since the boards will be attached to it. The lower edge of the upper beam of the frame will serve as a guide.
• The width of the inner part of our product is 160 cm, therefore, in order to avoid squeaking, the boards can be made 5 millimeters shorter - 159.5 cm (or a little less).

• After sanding the boards, you need to lay them on the frame so that they do not touch the sides of the walls of the frame, and fix them.
• Since the self-tapping screws will be screwed in from the edge of the board, holes will need to be drilled under them in each board, using a thin drill for this.
• As for the distance between the boards, we find it empirically. In our case, the length of the inner part of the bed is 200 cm. We retreat 5 mm from the edges. It remains 199 cm. Divide by 16 (the number of boards). 199/16 \u003d 12.44 cm. Round it up, and it turns out that you need to mark the support beam every 12.4 cm. Since the width of the board is 10 cm, the gap between them will be 2.4 cm, which completely suits us.

• If you need to get a greater distance between the boards, then you need to reduce their number and again perform the calculations according to the scheme we have given.
• Now we need to sand the whole structure. To do this, it is better to take the bed outside the room, as there will be a lot of dust.
• It is convenient to use a grinder or a drill with a nozzle on which an emery cloth is attached. After mechanized processing, you need to complete the process manually using fine-grained emery cloth.

• The bed must be primed and varnished in several steps, each layer is applied after the previous layer has dried. The job is best done with a spray gun. In extreme cases, you can use a brush, but it is important to understand that the appearance of the applied coating will not be the same as when using a spray gun.

You probably noticed that we still have 3 boards left. Of these, we will make the back, as in the photo.

The height of the backrest is 45 cm, and the width is 170 cm, but this does not matter, since it will not be integral with the bed - we will fix it on the wall at the level with the mattress.

Its manufacture is not at all difficult. Three boards are sawn off at 170 cm each. We make 11 boards of 45 cm each from scraps. If there are not enough boards of 45 cm each, then 2 boards of 40–42 cm can be screwed through one board. Just like the bed, the back needs to be given a presentable look by varnishing it.

The backrest can be hung on hooks, only in this case it will knock against the wall. More practical - rigidly fix the back to the wall. Now the wooden bed can be used.

Video: making a wooden bed

Chipboard bed: step by step instructions

The manufacture of structures from chipboard may seem very difficult, due to the nature of this material. If you cut, grind and glue the edge at home, then some difficulties arise, especially with cutting chipboard, as the decorative layer can be damaged. Many problems can be avoided if you make a drawing in advance and order the manufacture of parts in a furniture workshop. At home, it remains only to assemble the structure.

This time we will look at the process of making a small single bed with two drawers. Here is an example of cutting a standard chipboard sheet for one bed.

From the remnants of the stove, you can make shelves for books or something else that is needed on the farm.

So, we have a ready-made set of parts that need to be assembled to make a bed.

To do the job, you will need the following tool:

• screwdriver;
• drill (you can use a screwdriver instead);
• jigsaw;
• confirmation drill;
• bit extension;
• bits (cross and hex);
• mallet;
• pencil;
• ruler;
• awl;
• roulette.

You will also need consumables:

• Confirmations - 50 pcs.
• Stickers or plugs for confirmations - 50 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws 3.8 × 45 mm - 15 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws 3.5 × 30 mm - 30 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws 3.5 × 16 mm - 40 pcs.
• Furniture corner - 12 pcs.
• Linear roller - 8 pcs.
• Wide furniture handles - 2 pcs.
• Plastic legs - 12 pcs.
• Bar 20 × 45 mm (3 m) - 3 pcs.

Now let's start assembling.

Since a mattress of 200 × 70 cm will be used, we will adjust the existing slats to the width of the mattress, making them 70 cm long. As a result, there will be 12 of them.

On ten rails on one side, you need to fix the corners.

First, we will make boxes that can be pushed under the bed. Let's assemble the frame first. To do this, lay out the blanks in such a way that the part glued with the edge is at the top. When assembling, it is important not to confuse the sides. Well, if the edge is not glued from the end of the inner part, then you will not mix it up. If the edges of the parts are glued in a circle (which is wrong), then you need to try to fold the box without twisting it, and then attach the bottom. After making sure that everything matches, you can start assembling.

Stepping back from the lower (or upper) edge of about 3 cm, you need to drill a hole with a confirmation drill. This must be done carefully, as one awkward movement - the part will be damaged. The thickness of the laminated chipboard is 16 mm, so we retreat 8 mm from the edge of the workpiece, slightly core and drill a hole without the slightest deviation.

If you have never assembled furniture from chipboard, then first practice on the unused remnants of the sheet.

By connecting the parts, we get such a box.

In order to screw the bottom, eight confirmations are enough - 2 on each side. These drawers are not designed to hold very heavy items because the plastic casters are not designed for that.

It remains to attach the handle and install the rollers. One box is ready, now the second is going in the same sequence.

Putting the finished boxes aside, let's start assembling the bed. Since boxes will be installed on one side, you need to put together 3 parts, using 3 confirmations on each side.

As a result, we get such a "bench".

Now we will assemble a decorative box, thanks to which the mattress will be fixed. This part is not as high as the base of the bed, so 2 confirmations will be used on each side.

We put the resulting frame on the bed frame so that it does not interfere with pulling out the drawers, and connect them together from the inside with 3.5 × 30 mm self-tapping screws.

You need to nail the plastic legs.

Let's start making ribs. On the front of the frame, draw a line from one edge to the other along the height of the bed frame. Now we fix the bars with the corners screwed to them every 13 cm, so that their lower part is lined up.

Instead of ribbed boards, you can use a chipboard cut to size.

After that, it remains to fasten the bars to the opposite sidewall with 30 mm screws.

Having rolled up the boxes and laid the mattress, you can begin to use the bed.

As you can see, with the right approach, it will not be difficult to assemble a bed from chipboard at home. The design can be any size, as in the next video.

Video: making a podium double bed from chipboard

pallet bed

Beds made from pallets are in fashion right now. At first glance, it may seem that this kind of design would be appropriate only in some provincial dacha, but this is not so, because pallet beds can also be found in houses with a rather rich environment.

Let's move from words to deeds. Consider one of the options for assembling a pallet bed. How many will be needed? It all depends on the size and design of the manufactured product. So, a single bed with legs can be made from 2 pallets, and without legs - from 4. We used 8 pallets to make our double bed.

If possible, then you need to choose the most whole pallets. They need to be skinned.

All pallets should be painted with non-toxic wood paint. Since the tree is very hygroscopic, it is likely that the pallets will need to be opened with paint 2-3 times.

If there is such a desire, then you can open the blanks with varnish.

Having laid the first row of pallets, it is necessary to fasten them. If the wood is very strong, then holes are drilled under the screws.

Then the second row is laid.

All pallets are fastened together with metal plates, fixed with wood screws.

Thanks to this simple technology, you can make a pretty decent pallet bed.

You can also make a back from pallets.

From the remains of pallets, you can assemble some furniture and install it near the bed. In general - who likes what.

From plywood

You won’t surprise anyone with a plywood product, but you can make furniture from it at home. We will use sheets of the FSF brand, since not every plywood is suitable for making a bed.

Consider an example of making a bed for a spring mattress 1900 × 900 × 200 mm.

Materials for making a bed

The thickness of the plywood used can be 12, 15 or 18 mm. Thin sheets can be used when fastening plywood with screws. From 18 mm plywood, the bed will be more durable, but very heavy, so it is preferable to use sheets with a thickness of 15 mm - they are much stronger than standard chipboard.

• Plywood 2.44 × 1.22 m - 1 sheet.
• Beam 30 × 40 mm - 2 pcs. by 1.9 m.
• Beam 30 × 40 mm - 7 pcs. by 0.9 m.
• If the edges of the parts need to be pasted over, then buy a PVC edge. Its consumption will be no more than 8 p / m.
• Glue "Moment" - 1 tube.
• Screws 5×40 mm - 26 pcs.
• Screws 5×60 mm - 12 pcs.
• Screws 3×9 mm - 8 pcs.
• Thrust bearings - 4 pcs.

As for the tools, they are the same as for working with chipboard. Wood screws can be used instead of screws.

The side wall of the back of the bed has a large height. This is done so that the drawers that are pushed under the bed do not rest against the walls. If there are no boxes, then the side walls can be made the same.

Bed making

From the existing plywood sheet, you need to cut out the details corresponding to the drawing.

If desired, laminated plywood can be used. In this case, it is important to consider that it is very difficult to cut such a sheet at home without damaging the laminated coating. In addition, then the edges will necessarily need to be pasted over with a furniture edge.

To cut plywood, you need to use a file with a fine tooth, and drive the jigsaw slowly - so we get an even cut without chips. As a result, we should get parts of the following dimensions:

1. Front back - 932 × 650 mm.
2. Backrest - 932 × 500 mm.
3. Front side panel - 1900 × 200 mm.
4. The rear side panel is 1900 × 350 mm (if there are no cabinets, then we also make 1900 × 200 mm).

• The ends of all parts must be sanded. To do this, you can use a small wooden block wrapped with medium grit sandpaper.
• After that, we assemble the bed frame.

bed base

• The backrests are attached to the side rails with 5x40mm screws (2 for each front side and 3 for the back).
• Then we fasten the beam to the side rails of the bed using 5 × 40 mm screws (7 pcs per side). The head of the screws should be slightly recessed into the timber. If driven deeper, the screw will go through the plywood.
• We fix the crossbars from the timber on the horizontal bars with self-tapping screws 5 × 60 mm (1 for each point).
• With 5 × 40 mm screws, we fasten the bars to the backs from the inside (3 screws for each).
• At the last stage, we fasten the thrust bearings from below to the backs - 2 screws 3 × 9 mm for each.
• We install the bed, lay the mattress and use our product.

If instead of a spring mattress on the frame you use a soft one, then you need to cut the bottom out of plywood and screw it to the bars from above.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in making a plywood bed.

metal

If you have some welding skills, then you can make a metal bed. We will not even consider the option of a bolted connection, since such a product will loosen very quickly.

Look at the photo of a collapsible metal bunk bed. Agree that she looks very presentable.

For its manufacture, the following materials were needed:

• Profile pipe 50 × 25 mm - 8 m.
• Profile pipe 40 × 40 mm - 8 m.
• Profile pipe 20 × 20 mm (or 15 × 15) - 40 m.

In addition to pipes, a metal primer and hammer paint were purchased.

One of the advantages of such a bed is the absence of bent parts, so a pipe bender is not needed to make it.

If you buy pipes, and not use those that have lain for several years in the garage, then do not opt ​​for rusty ones, since then they will need to be cleaned for a long time.

Frame manufacturing

Since the bed is collapsible, its parts can be made in parts. Let's start with the backs.

• The base will be pipes 40 × 40 mm. We cut them into equal parts of 2 m each. If the ceilings are low, then they can be reduced to 185 cm.
• The width of our backs will be 90 cm, so we will cut off 8 identical segments of 82 cm (90-(4 + 4) = 82) from a 20 × 20 mm pipe, and 8 pipes of 30 cm each.
• So far we will use only half of the prepared material.
• On a flat plane, parallel to each other, you need to lay pipes-racks.
• Stepping back from the bottom 40 cm and from the edge 1 cm, a pipe 82 cm long is attached.
• It is necessary to check the correctness of the set angles with a building corner.
• After 95 cm, the second pipe is grabbed.
• We return to the first one, and on the tacks we assemble the grate - 2 pipes of 30 cm each and a cross member of 82 cm.
• We do the same with the second lattice.
• After checking the angles and alignment of the stuck parts, they can be welded thoroughly.
• The second back is made in the same way.

Now let's start making the shelves.

• We will also cut the profile pipe 50 × 25 mm into 4 equal parts of 2 m each.
• The width of the shelves will be 88 cm, so we need 26 pieces of pipe 20 × 20 mm, 83 cm each (88-(2.5 + 2.5) = 83).
• 2 pipes are laid on the edge parallel to each other.
• We mark 13 cm from the edges and grab one jumper at a time, placing them along the bottom edge.
• We lay out the remaining 11 jumpers every 14 cm and grab them.
• After checking, the shelf is scalded, and the second one is assembled in exactly the same way.
• To the shelf that will be installed at the top, it is necessary to weld a fence of the same height as the height of the lattice on the back. The pipe used for fencing must be bent, not welded at an angle. If there is no pipe bending machine, then it can be filled with sand and bent in a vice or between two supports. This pipe must be welded in the middle of the bed, as in the photo.

• In the same way, 3 more vertical racks are welded, but it will not be welded to the back, so you need to weld a small bar from the end.

The turn has come to assemble the structure together, for this we will use welding a little more.

Since our bed is collapsible, we will make universal fasteners for it.

• From a pipe 20 × 20 mm, 16 pieces of 10 cm must be cut off and welded to the backs at the junction.
• Each attachment point uses 2 tubes. They are inserted into the lattice pipe and cling to the back. If this is not done, then it will not be possible to assemble the bed, since the attachment points will not match.
• After checking the correct location of the part, we thoroughly weld the tubes to the back.

• With the help of a grinder, it is necessary to process the welding seams.

Assembly

• Now let's assemble the bed.
• In order for the collapsible parts to hold together securely, they will need to be secured with self-tapping screws (after final assembly).

It is also necessary to make a small ladder, the dimensions of which can be arbitrary.

• We attach it to the shelves with bolts and nuts.

• At the final stage of work, the entire structure is disassembled, degreased, primed and painted.
• After the paint has dried, the bed can be brought into the house and assembled.
• To close the ends of the pipes, specially designed plastic plugs are purchased for this purpose.

If the bed is made for children, then its length can be significantly reduced.

As you can see, at home you can make a beautiful and durable metal bed.

Production of decorative elements

If you want to do something original, then in the manufacture of a bed, instead of standard profile pipes, you can use forging elements.

Such parts are sold in specialized stores or made to order. Good results can be achieved using bent parts, and you can bend them yourself.

Bed legs

A person may have the wrong opinion that the legs of a metal bed will look rough. If you set a goal, then this element can also be made very attractive.

Video: making a metal bed with forging elements

Design choice

The wrong bed can cause a lot of inconvenience. Here are some tips from experts in the field:

1. It is best if the bed is made of natural materials. When using chipboard, plywood, laminate and other materials with synthetic additives (glue, etc.), the products must be certified, intended for the manufacture of furniture.
2. The size of the bed matters a lot. A single bed can be 100, 90 or 80 cm wide, and a double bed can be 200, 180 and 160 cm. If there are no restrictions on the size of the room, then you need to act on the principle - the more the better. The length of the bed must be 20 cm longer than the height of the person (minimum 10 cm).
3. Structures made of chipboard (and laminated chipboard) are the most unreliable and brittle.
4. The solid bottom of the bed does not allow the mattress to ventilate, but too little ribbing can cause the mattress to deform.

Since we are talking about a mattress, there are some nuances of choice here.

1. The mattress should not be hard. It should be soft enough, but not too deformed under the weight of a person lying on it, so it must be selected individually. For a double bed, you can choose 2 mattresses of different elasticity. To make sure that the mattress suits you, you need to lie on it for 15-20 minutes before buying.
2. If a hard mattress is purchased, then you can put a thick mattress topper on it, for the manufacture of which latex or memoryform is used (thickness from 3 to 10 cm). If you have not decided on the choice, then it is better to purchase a mattress with double-sided rigidity.

As for the design features of the bed, this is a matter of personal preference and convenience. In a small room, you can place a bed, under which there will be drawers, folding or pulling out from the podium. In a large room, you can give free rein to your imagination by making a wide bed.

Video: how to choose a bed in the bedroom

Single

A single bed is installed in cases where it is planned that only one person will sleep on it, whether it be a child or an adult. Also, 2 or more beds can be installed in one room, for example for two children. Be that as it may, you first need to decide which design is suitable, and then take up manufacturing. Photos of homemade single beds can help with this.

Photos of single beds

double bed

As a rule, married couples sleep together (at least for the first few years), and in order for this bed to be comfortable to sleep, you need to take care of its size and design. Look at the photo exhibition of double products.

Photos of double beds

bunk bed

Usually a double bed is made for children. It can be either a simple bed or a fairy-tale castle in which the child will fall asleep with pleasure. When choosing the design of this kind of children's bed, you need to think about both convenience and design.

Video: designing a baby bed

Photos of bunk beds

Drawings and diagrams: bed assembly

Littleone 2009-2012 > All about children > From one to three years > The child strives to fall out of the crib. What to do?

View Full Version : The baby tries to fall out of the crib. What to do?

Help plz!

wall_84

21.12.2010, 17:18

At home, my parents have a crib for their daughter when we visit them. When my dad saw that his daughter was trying to jump over the side, he immediately built it up. How to write more precisely. I can't take a picture, it's in another city. In general, he screwed two small sticks on the sides of this side, and screwed a long stick to these sticks, like from a mop. And as a result, the side turned out to be 8 cm higher. I wrote something stupid, but I hope you understand what I mean: 008:

wall_84

21.12.2010, 17:19

we nailed another plank to the crib, and stopped worrying - only the head peeked out of the crib :)

Wow, that's what I meant :)

21.12.2010, 17:28

our husband himself lowered the bottom even lower

We had to remove the side, after the son crawled out of bed onto a sewing machine, which was on the side of the crib. Bed height at seam. the machines are the same as those of the sides. Down by the bed they put a mat from the sports complex, but the small one did not even think of falling on it. At the crib there was a transverse stick 10 cm above the mattress instead of the front wall. It was useless for us to build a bed at your age, because.

By this time, the son was already above the norm.

21.12.2010, 18:04

We also lowered the bottom and attached another rail, because. there was a bedside table next to the children's bed, and once I entered the room I saw how my son, having got out, was hanging on the bedside table! :010::010:

We lowered the side to the end. His bed is pushed close to ours. So when he got out, he ended up on our bed.

Thanks everyone for the advice and replies!

:flower:

21.12.2010, 18:15

3. How to lower the bottom even lower (in the sense of purely physical HOW?): 005:

husband just drilled holes below and screwed =)

Well damn, it's too easy! :flower:

the husband made the corners and lowered the bottom even lower (than it should be)! the second side was removed and moved to the bed ... and we sleep))) everyone is happy and the bed has become safe!

********************
Look, maybe you have even lower holes to lower the bottom? (we have a bed with a drawer at the bottom. in the lowest position, the bottom lies on the drawer practically).
Or maybe your mattress is high?: 008: Then buy a thinner mattress (there are 20 cm thick, or something, but there are 5 cm, in my opinion: 016:. In general, the thinnest coconut mattress for a crib I have in mind).

You can also, if your side is attached to iron pins (the pins are wrung out and the side rises / falls), lift it up, release these pins and, as it were, hang the side on them.: 008:

Thanks everyone for the advice and replies! :flower:
Now the following questions arose:
1. how to build up the side? Those. I basically understood the scheme, but then how do I put the child in bed?! :009:
2. If you remove the side completely, the child will not roll away in a dream?
and 3. How to lower the bottom even lower (in the sense of purely physical HOW?): 005:

The author, it is strange that the bottom is in the lowest position, the child is below 80 cm and may already fall out.: 008:
My daughter is 89 cm, the bottom is lowered to the very bottom - she cannot physically hang over the side.

I mean, how do you put a baby in bed?
you will not screw the bar across the crib, but along;)

I mean, I can hardly reach her to put her in the crib: so I changed her clothes for bed, sang a song and I have to put her in the crib ... but the bottom is far away 🙂

I don't understand... :009: I thought it would come MUCH later, but apparently we have a relatively high mattress (I think it's about 20 cm)... + she stands on her tiptoes.
And about the pins - thanks! Must try :flower:
I think the best option in your case is to drill holes below and buy a thinner mattress. Although, for starters (if it's a pity to spoil the bed), just a new thin mattress is enough.;)

About the pins, it won't work. I have experimented now. She leaned into the bed through this side (respectively, pressed on it) and the pins jumped off the very top of the bed - the side fell and fixed, as it should, in the highest position.

thanks :flower:

21.12.2010, 19:20

Mine was also outweighed ... Once I didn’t keep track and he fell, thank God successfully, but now he himself is not outweighed.

23.12.2010, 17:03

we also have this problem. He also seems to be tall enough to sleep in a crib, but he pulls himself up in his arms ...

Brrrunka

23.12.2010, 17:37

And we did not redo anything, just did not keep the child in the crib while awake. At that age, our baby only slept in the crib. That is, if he needed to look at something on the floor and he bent over, I just took him out, let him see enough and put him back.

23.12.2010, 17:43

we drilled new holes and lowered the bottom.
now one head sticks out)
removing the side is not yet an option, although the son knows how to get off the bed, he constantly spins in a dream

23.12.2010, 20:54

Mine managed to fall out of the crib upside down when she was 1 year and 1 month old, I don’t know how, she pulled herself up, leaned over and forward. Good luck. I don't seem to be trying to do that kind of trick anymore. But at 1.3, I took off the regular side board and put a low one from Ikea, and no matter how she spins, crawls and crawls in the night, she never fell out of the crib. At the same time, she could already get out on her own if necessary.

Please help with advice!
Mattress on the bottom position in the crib. My daughter (less than 80 cm tall) sleeps in a sleeping bag (from Ikea). She began to get up in the crib and hang over the side. It's not like she wants to get out of her crib... She just looks around. But if it bends a little, it can fall head down! :001:
I found here a lot similar to those in which it is advised to switch to older beds or remove the slats (or the entire side), but my child only sleeps in a bag and crawls in his sleep! Therefore, I think that in this situation, she will generally spend the night on the floor: 005:
Help plz!

at 1.2 the son leaned over the side and fell out. It's good that it's on the bed next to it, and not on the floor.
immediately the side was removed and a low side from Ikea was put in its place (the son knew how to get off the bed)

even if the child crawls in a dream (and the son crawled) - it won’t fall out anywhere, the side is almost the entire length of the bed and is quite high.

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Library

How to increase the height of the bed

When bed rest, we advise you to make the bed higher. It will be more convenient for you and easier for the one who cares for you: your back will not be so tired.
Here are three options for how to increase the height of the bed.
If you are undergoing physiotherapy, you should check whether the bed can withstand the additional load.

How to increase the height of a metal bed

Since it is difficult to drill and attach metal or wood to a metal bed, it is easier to put the bed legs in small wooden boxes. This stand method can be used for any bed, especially if you need to give the bed its original height.

Material

Choosing a crib

Base - plywood 9 mm x 90 mm x 90 mm, 4 pcs.
B. Smaller sides - plywood 9 mm x 72 mm x 150 mm, 8 pcs.
C. Large sides - plywood 9 mm x 90 mm x 150 mm, 8 pcs.
D. Churban - strong wood, area corresponding to the stand, x required height.
E. Forged wood screws No. 8 x 25 mm.
Fastening with glue and screws.

Operating procedure

1. Drill holes for base A and sides C.
2. Drill auxiliary holes in sides B with a diameter equal to half the diameter of the screw.
3. Attach sides B to sides C.
4. Attach assembled sides B and C to base A.
5. Sand and paint to match the bed or coat with impregnation.
6. Cut the logs to the correct size.

Wooden coasters for wooden beds

This way to increase the height of the bed is simple and effective, but take the time to choose the material. The wood must be well dried so as not to crack under the weight of the bed itself and lying on it. Glued plywood is suitable for this purpose.

Material

A. Extensions - well-dried wood, diameter approximately equal to the diameter of the bed leg, length - the height to which the bed needs to be raised + 150 mm, 4 pcs.
B. Nuts and bolts - approximately 5 mm, 8 pcs. C. Washers - as large as possible so that the wood does not split when tightening the nuts.

Operating procedure

1. Drill holes in the bed legs and extensions A for the bolts.
2. Bolt the extensions to the legs of the bed.
3. Paint to match the bed or coat with impregnation.

Metal stands for wooden beds

An angle steel or angle aluminum stand is very durable. It can be installed quickly.

Material

A. Extensions - sheet iron or sheet aluminum, dimensions are calculated in the same way as the dimensions of a wooden extension, 4 pcs.
B. Nuts and bolts - about 5 mm in diameter, 16 pcs.
C. Large washers - 32 pcs.

Operating procedure

1. Round off all corners of the edge of each extension A.
2. Drill the bed legs and extensions A to match the nuts.
3. Bolt the extensions to the bed.
4. Paint to match the bed.