How to pull off the walls of a brick house. Contraction and strengthening of houses with a metal frame. House screed device from cracks How to pull a house from cracks with reinforcement

Before the beginning exterior finish walls of any building, work should be carried out to align them. For this purpose, a screed is equipped on the walls. In addition, with the help of wall screeds, it is possible to get rid of cracks on the walls of the house. We will consider further how to technologically correctly build a screed for the walls of a house.

House wall screed: device and technology

There are several options for performing plaster on the walls of the house:

execution of plastering by the rule, without preliminary installation of beacons, this method appropriate for a small difference in the walls horizontally or if the walls are completely even;
in the presence of large irregularities and deformations on the surface of the walls, beacons are used to level them.

If we consider the process of manufacturing a screed for walls in relation to SNIP, then three options for plastering should be distinguished, depending on the final result and the quality of the work performed:

1. simple plaster and its application to the walls, as a result, it is characterized by the presence of deviations of no more than three millimeters. Smooth irregularities are allowed, no more than six by eight square meters. In this case, the depth of the unevenness should not exceed five millimeters.

2. An improved version of the wall tie needs more stringent execution rules. For one square meter of the wall vertically, a difference of 2 mm is allowed. Smooth irregularities that are present on the walls should not have a depth of more than three millimeters. Horizontal deviations are not more than two millimeters.

3. The high-quality version of the wall screed is characterized by the presence of deviations of no more than one millimeter. Small irregularities and deviations with a depth of not more than one millimeter are allowed.

Screeding the walls of the house along the lighthouses: features of the process

If there are cracks and significant irregularities on the walls, it is used exactly this method screed. The cost of this process is about four hundred rubles per square meter. Therefore, without hiring builders, it will be possible to save significantly.

To do the job, first of all, you will need a perforator and a level that has a water bubble inside. At the same time, the length of the level should be 200 cm. The process of choosing a mixture for plastering walls follows. Most often, for these works, compositions based on the use of cement or gypsum are used. The use of gypsum mixture is relevant in such cases:

no cracks, even if the plaster layer exceeds five centimeters;
complete absence of shrinkage;
a high level of plasticity ensures the convenience of working with this material;
light weight also ensures work with this material, in addition, the gypsum mortar has good adhesion with any of the bases on which it is applied;
high level of vapor permeability, thermal insulation, sound insulation;
no need to use reinforcing mesh to strengthen the walls.

Plaster beacons are shaped narrow profiles from metal, on the surface of which there are holes that limit the application plaster mixture. When the beacons are carried out using the rule, excess plaster is removed from the surface. Most often, the rules are about three meters long, and the depth varies from 0.6 to 1 cm. The rule is in the form of a long aluminum rail, the sharp edge of which allows the plaster to be leveled when performing the screed. The rule also checks the surface for uneven areas.

To perform work on the screed of the walls of the house, you will need:

plaster composition;
beacons, a certain depth, depending on the thickness of the plaster;
perforator and a special nozzle, with which the solution is mixed;
dowels and self-tapping screws of rather large length;
screwdrivers and building level;
grinders or scissors for metal, with which beacons will be cut;
hammer, plumb line and aluminum rules;
wide spatula and steel rule;
primer on acrylic base, primers for concrete surfaces;
wide brush;
roulettes;
protective clothing.

After preparing all the tools and materials for work, the process of performing wall screed follows. First of all, you should prepare the walls and install beacons on them. The easiest way to do this is to use laser level. Please note that the installation of beacons should be given Special attention, since the final result of the work and the evenness of the walls depend on the quality of this process.

Screed walls at home photo and preparation for work

Before starting work, the walls should be examined for irregularities, deformations, cracks. To do this, install a level on the walls and check their evenness. The long rule will help to detect defects in the form of bumps and depressions on the walls. Irregularities that were found on the walls should be noted with a marker or pencil.

The following is the process of marking for the installation of beacons. Consider the option of having a wall, on the side of which there is a door. In this case, the first two beacons are installed on the sides, retreating from each corner about thirty centimeters. The location of the beacons is indicated with a marker or pencil. The further interval between beacons is from 1 to 1.5 m.

Please note that the length of the beacons must be greater than the length of the rule. An equal distance recedes from the floor and ceiling at which the beacons will be installed. The extreme points of their fixation are indicated by self-tapping screws. For a more secure fastening of the beacons, you must first install the dowels.

Between each of the corners of the wall, a cord should be stretched horizontally. The length of the beacon retreats from the previously installed dowels and a self-tapping screw is also installed on the dowels in the upper part of the wall. A cord is stretched along the top of the wall. like the bottom.

At the intersection with the markings, beacons are installed according to the previously marked scheme. Before that, self-tapping screws with dowels are also attached to the wall. Holes arranged in two rows are obtained, the screws located at the corner are unscrewed, but the dowels remain.

When preparing walls for applying plaster, first of all, they should be cleaned of dirt, dust, degreased and dried. This is followed by the process of applying a primer to the walls, it will help increase adhesion to the surface. In addition, the absorption of moisture on the surface of the walls will decrease. The primer is applied in several layers, special attention is paid to walls made of aerated concrete or brick.

If the surface of the wall is smooth, then the use of Betonokontakt is sufficient. If the surface of the walls is porous and absorbs moisture well, it should be treated with soil. deep penetration. Only after the walls have completely dried, should further work for the manufacture of their screed.

The following is the continuation of the markup. Install two screws at the top and four at the corners. After installing the screws, adjust their location on the wall so that they are on the same level. The line must be absolutely vertical. The second self-tapping screws are also installed vertically. We remind you that technologically depends on the quality of this process. correct execution plasters. A plumb line or a laser level will help you do the job.

Next, check the beacons for evenness of their installation, a cord is pulled over all the caps of the screws. Install a small part of the beacon under the cord, you can take it from the remnants. The beacon should be freely located under the cord on all sections of the wall.

The cord will help edit the location of the screws along the central part of the wall. Do the same for the bottom row. Only after each of the screws is in the same plane with each other, the process of fixing the beacons begins.

Instructions for installing beacons for plastering walls:

1. Lighthouses must be cut strictly according to the distance between the upper and lower self-tapping screws. To fix the beacons, you will need a little plaster mortar.

2. Do not cook too much of the mixture, as it will harden and become unusable.

3. The solution should have a curd-like consistency. The plaster must be firmly held on the spatula.

4. The plaster should be applied along the lines of the beacons and its excess should stick out behind the screws. Install the beacon in such a way as to ensure its uniform installation both at the top of the wall and at the bottom of it. It is best if two people do the work.

5. A long level or rule will help determine the evenness of the installation of beacons. This is followed by the process of pulling the screws out of the wall. Please note that when using the rule, it must be cleared of the solution before further use.

Do-it-yourself screed of the walls of the house: the technology of applying plaster

After fixing the beacons, the process of applying plaster follows. To do this, follow the instructions below:

1. Fill the bucket with water by a third, add a little solution and mix the composition with a drill with a mixer attachment.

2. Please note that the density of the solution directly depends on the thickness of the applied layer. The minimum density of the solution should be such that it does not flow off the spatula and is well kept on it.

3. It is best to read the manufacturer's instructions before thinning the plaster.

4. If the surface of the walls is made of materials that are highly absorbent, then before applying the plaster composition, it is recommended to moisten them with water.

5. Wet the areas gradually, before applying the plaster, using a spray gun.

6. Otherwise, the moisture from the plaster will transfer to the wall and it will begin to crack.

7. Professionals who carry out wall plastering work apply plaster mortar with the help of a yarn.

8. If you have no experience in carrying out such work, then the easiest way is to apply plaster on a trowel, and then distribute it on the wall.

9. The wall is aligned from the bottom to the top. At the same time, the plaster should differ in density and should not go beyond the beacons.

11. If there are bumps or bubbles on the wall, then to remove them, you should remove the plaster and install it again. Next, you should align the site using the rule.

12. The final smoothing of the surface is also carried out using the rule. In this case, the excess solution is thrown onto the wall. Further actions are repeated in the same order.

13. After plastering all the strips, the areas near the floor and ceiling should be plastered.

14. In these places, the mortar is applied in a small overlap. Alignment of these areas is carried out in relation to the wound plastered surface along the beacons. In this case, the rule is held in a vertical or inclined position.

15. To check the result of the work, you should attach the rule to the wall at different angles and on different parts of the walls.

16. The trowel removes excess plaster. If there are cracks on the surface of the walls, use liquid plaster to remove them.

17. If there are metal beacons on the surface of the walls, care should be taken to remove them. Since they, after a certain time, will be covered with rust.

18. Use a screwdriver to remove the beacons, use a plaster mortar to seal the resulting cracks. Movements during application of the solution should be x-shaped.

19. If there are too large differences on the surface of the walls, the screeding process is carried out in two stages.

20. The application of the first layer is carried out without leveling, before it hardens, with a spatula, uneven serifs are made on it. It is they who will become the connecting element between the two layers and ensure reliable adhesion of the plaster to the wall.

The screed of the walls of the house with reinforcement is carried out if there are large cracks and deformations on the walls. Most often, a special metal mesh is used to strengthen the wall. They fit between two layers.

The final stage of work on the wall screed is the grouting of the plaster. Work should be carried out until the plaster is completely dry. Before grouting, the wall is additionally moistened.

The liquid solution is applied to the wall of the trowel. The tool is installed in relation to the wall at an angle of forty-five degrees. With strong movements, the surface is smoothed. When the solution no longer accumulates on the surface, go to next section pre-moistened with a spray bottle.

Please note that if further wall decoration will be done using tiles, then grouting is not necessary. Since small irregularities will accompany good adhesion of the tile to the wall.

Screed house walls video:

Often, cracks that appear in private homes can raise many questions and significantly spoil the mood of their owners. As a rule, this means that mistakes were made during the construction phase, as a result of which cracks form.

But do not immediately panic, because the situation can be saved. Initially, you will need to establish the reason why the crack occurred, and only then you can use a special screed at home.

Causes of cracks

The main cause of wall cracking is the shrinkage of the foundation.

All the reasons that will be given in the table accelerate the formation of cracks in houses. The main factor by which such a flaw occurs is the subsidence of the foundation of the building. Given certain circumstances, cracks can be avoided, and they will have minimum dimensions. So, the reasons and descriptions for them, for which damage appears, are given in the table:

Cause	Description	Problem Solving Methods
No bonding materials between bricks	This happens if another building or room is already attached to the finished house. As a rule, it is the extensions that begin to crack, as they begin to move away from the main building.	If the extension has moved away and no longer moves, you can repair the crack with putty. The second method of solving the problem is a screed at home. To do this, in the corners of the house are installed metal corners 10x10 cm, a rod is fixed between them and tightened with nuts.
Lack of bonding materials	If mistakes were made during construction and there is not enough mortar between the bricks, then after the foundation has set in the building or extension, a crack may occur.	A screed similar to that described above will help solve the problem.
Technological violation of brick laying	A crack can go along the seam of the mortar, while the brick will remain intact. In other words, the crack found a weakness in the building and began to appear.	Most likely, it will not be possible to solve such a problem and you can only close the crack with a solution. The problem is that during construction, the brick was not wetted or placed on the mortar without pressing down, this all makes the hitch weak and fragile.
Appearance of a corner crack	As a rule, a problem arises in the corners of buildings if there is big weight and a great effort is made on the foundation. The problem lies in insufficient reinforcement of the corners or the lack of a bundle.	A screed or strengthening the foundation can solve the problem.

Having studied the main causes and features of damage, we can conclude that in such cases, the only solution would be to tighten the house. Of course, this method is not very aesthetic, but reliable.

Cracks in the finish of a building do not always indicate damage to the walls. You should make sure that the damage has affected the bearing materials.

Basic rules for screeding houses

Steel corners

In already finished building the screed is necessary to prevent the appearance of new cracks, as well as to ensure that the damage that has already appeared does not increase. The technology has proven itself well today. For a house screed with dimensions of 6x6 meters and a height of 3 meters, the following materials will be needed:

Steel corners 10x10 cm - 4 pcs. 3 m.
Rods in diameter from 16 mm - 48 m.
Thick-walled pipe, the diameter is similar to rods - length 1.5 meters.
Threaded studs for rods - 16 pcs.
Nuts and washers - 16 pcs.

Threaded studs

To pull the house, you need to install metal corners at the corners of the building. Sections of thick-walled pipes are pre-welded on them. Studs are fixed to the rods, and after that the whole structure is tightened with nuts. For the reliability of the whole structure, some rules should be taken into account:

For clarity, it is worth looking at the screed of the house from cracks in the walls in the photo. This will allow you to deal with the fasteners and the design as a whole:

After carrying out the work, the house can be ennobled, for example, with siding, but leave access to the nuts to tighten them.

If the damage is small, then other means can be used. ? To do this, use the following tips:

In case of small damage, which does not exceed 5 mm in width, you can use ordinary putty.
If the damage is up to 1 cm, then you will need to use a solution based on sand and cement in a ratio of 1: 3.
For large and deep damage, it is recommended to seal the crack with foam, and then apply cement-sand mortar.

Before you start working on or, read the recommendations of specialists.

most common cause, along which cracks occur, is the overload of the roofs of private houses, due to incorrect calculation of the snow load.

Before covering up the damage, you will need to remove dirt, dust and other debris. It is also recommended to wet the area to be repaired for better adhesion of materials. For more information on how to make a screed at home, see this video:

If a crack begins to appear on the house, then you can be sure that it will not disappear. A screed or strengthening the foundation will help solve the problem. If the work is done correctly, damage will not increase, and reliable protection will be provided to the house for decades to come.

Today, many methods are offered to stop the appearance of cracks in buildings, one of which is a house screed from cracks, which is performed using various materials. Cracks are the reason for the subsequent destruction of the structure and lead to emergency, which requires immediate resolution of this problem.

House screed with fittings

To perform this type of work, certain skills and abilities in welding are required, and you should also correctly calculate required amount rebar and its diameter. These parameters are determined depending on the area of the entire building and the damaged areas.

You can carry out these activities on your own, but it is better to contact a specialized organization. The professional employees of the company also take into account the degree of destruction of the building, the number of floors, the type of foundation and the type of roof, as well as the characteristics of the soil and territory.

In some cases, in places where the walls are not particularly destroyed, it is recommended to lay out new masonry, and in areas with an increased degree of destruction, pull them together with reinforced and more durable reinforcement.

Required materials for screed fittings

For screeding with fittings, the following materials and tools are required, which include:

fittings;
hairpins;

The technology of screeding with fittings is not complicated and consists in the following: special corners are attached to the corners of the house, into which studs are threaded and washers with nuts are screwed on. The screed of the house is carried out with the help of nuts, which are regularly tightened depending on the condition of the building.

Valve characteristics

The fittings are elements that are interconnected by means of concrete and are reinforced concrete beams tensile stress. It is also used to give increased strength and rigidity. different designs. Its components can be rigid (various angles, channels and rolled I-beams) and flexible (grids, frames and profile rods).

There are several ways to connect reinforcement to concrete, which include:

Interaction by friction;
shift method;
Coupling during concreting of the reinforcement element;
Connection at the electrochemical level;
Compression with concrete after shrinkage.

Rebar classification

To date, reinforcement has the following classification, depending on various features.

Depending on the area of use:

strained;
Not strained.

Depending on the designated purpose:

Working;
Mounting;
anchor;
Constructive.

Depending on the location in the structure:

transverse;
Longitudinal.

The main types of house destruction

The screed of the house from cracks is performed as a result of the following causes, which lead to a violation of the integrity of the house.

And these include the following:

collapse;
blockage;
Extension department.

Features and description of the collapse of the structure

Mostly the collapse of the house leads to the formation of cracks in the upper corners of the openings, and the walls are deformed by waves or separated by the entire surface.

This type of destruction can be complete or partial. Full involves a change in the state of all the bearing walls of the structure, and partial - only some partitions.

Light demolition of the house

The main signs of such destruction include cracks in half of the corners of the openings, deformation of the head of the walls up to one third of the height in the normal state of the foundation.

The reason for the occurrence of such processes may be the significant weight of the roof, the construction of an additional floor, as well as the absence of a reinforcing belt. In order to eliminate this, it is necessary to use a steel clip on the corner supports.

Rods run along the facade external walls, and the work will require steel corners, a pipe, studs and nuts, a steel bar, subsequent cooking and painting.

Average camber

The main signs of such destruction are all the same reasons that are observed with a slight collapse, but with a probability of up to 80%.

The reasons for the appearance may be an insufficient reinforcing belt, a significant overload and the lack of a bunch of walls and corners during the initial construction of the building.

AT this case it is recommended to carry out a screed around the entire perimeter of the house in three levels of imposition of steel belts to ensure better and more reliable fixation of the walls. In this case, the steel circle can be replaced by a strip, and the welding seams must be of excellent quality.

strong collapse

The main signs are the appearance of noticeable cracks in the walls and foundation of the building, as well as a combination of other causes that are characteristic of light and medium destruction. The cause of the appearance may be the destruction of the foundation of the house.

To prevent the complete destruction of the building, a continuous support and corner clips, as well as a retaining belt of the foundation, are used.

For applying reinforced concrete laying along the entire length of the base.

Description of the blockage of the house

The blockage suggests the blockage of the walls inside the house, which can be complete or partial. In all cases, welding work is carried out in the middle of the premises, which, as a rule, requires major repairs in all rooms of the building.

Complete blockage is characterized by blockage of three walls to varying degrees. The reasons may be the broken technology of building a house and an insufficient reinforcing belt. To eliminate it, a rigid steel frame on a through fastening is used.

Watch the video:

A partial blockage is characterized by the blockage of two walls, the cause of which may be negative impact moisture or precipitation. For repair, a partial clip is used according to the principle of solid mounting.

Annex branch

In most cases, there is a combined separation of the extension of the house. The main sign is a crack at the junction with the main house or along inner corner.

The main reasons for such destruction are the lack of attachment of the extension to the house during its construction, as well as poor foundation and possible overload of the additional premises.

The screed of the house from cracks is eliminated by such destruction by a set of measures, including the use of through, semi-through, anchor clips and supports. In this case, supports can be located around the entire perimeter of the foundation or clogged in separate places.

DIY crafts. Beading. Brick house screed. 3 years, 1 month back #1365. Alenka.
Content
Method 1: frame (monolithic) reinforcement
Method 2: wire mesh reinforcement

Method 4: Use Additives in Solution

General Tips
During the construction of a house or a major overhaul, most are faced with the question of the need to reinforce the screed during its formation. Someone decides to save money and is content with only a concrete screed, while someone, in order to give ultimate strength, reinforces all surfaces, so to speak, “for centuries”. It is worth understanding the need to apply reinforcement of the floor screed and the ways in which you can make reinforcement with your own hands.
The construction of the screed varies into several types, depending on the intended purpose and the place of its formation. So, there may be the following options for screeds:
Rough screed on the ground or base plate;
Floor screed on floor slabs;
Screed for leveling, self-leveling floor;
Screed with laying a layer of sound and heat insulation;
It makes sense to reinforce the floor screed in cases where rough screed and when creating a multi-layer screed with thermal insulation. In these cases, it is necessary for the reason that the screed is not made on a monolithic and fixed base and is subjected to tensile and bending forces. Also, reinforcement can be performed in order to save concrete, if it is required, according to the calculations, to form a too thick layer of concrete.
Reinforcement of the screed can be done in several ways. You can choose the right one based on design and operational requirements and only after the reinforcement has been calculated. It is quite difficult to perform independent calculations based on the requirements of SNiP and GOSTs, and you can miss a lot of nuances and features, so it is better to contact a design organization for this.
Now consider the materials and structures that can be used to reinforce floors:
reinforcement frame;
wire mesh;
welded mesh with a cell of 5-20 cm;
polymer mesh, fiberglass reinforcing mesh;
fiber additives in the composition of the solution.
In any case, the reinforcement technology is performed according to a specific construction scheme.
Any reinforcing material must be distributed in the thickness of the mortar used for the screed. To do this, it is distributed over the surface strictly before pouring on special supports (does not apply only to additives in the solution in the form of fiber).
Screed with your own walls at home with reinforcement. KattyMorton yulka_shh Shusyik:D the thermometer wants you to go to school tomorrow LeraKirichenko3 I hope not for long so that I can contact you in February The next round of negotiations within the framework of
The composition and structure of the reinforcement should not interfere with the distribution of the solution under its layer.
The reinforcement material must have good adhesion to the mortar. To do this, it should not be contaminated with oily substances or opened with paint or other substances.
Reinforcement must be completely sunk into the mortar layer to prevent corrosion, decay, oxidation under the influence of moisture or air.
Read: Properties of aerated concrete
The formation of frame reinforcement is advisable only in cases where the foundation of the house, that is, the foundation and the floor screed, are an integral system for holding the building. Also in cases where it is justified by calculations and the need in view of the unreliability of the supporting soils. At the same time, reinforced concrete structures are formed with total thickness not less than 10 cm and the height of the reinforcing frame is not less than 5 cm. Method 1: frame (monolithic) reinforcement
You can build a reinforcing frame right on the spot, using reinforcement for this. In construction, rebar is used in sizes from 6 to 40 mm, depending on the design requirements and the required strength. In private construction, reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm and 20 mm is most often used.
You can “knit” a frame from reinforcement using steel wire 2-3 mm. At the same time, a base grid is formed with a cell of the required size within 10-20 cm and everything is connected with the mounting of lifting ribs. On the ribs, the upper layer of the reinforcing frame is formed in the form of the same mesh as on the lower layer. It is best to use solid pieces of reinforcement along the length and width. If you want to use trimmings and shorter pieces, then the reinforcement is extended overlapping with at least half a meter overlapping each other. Next, the screed is poured. This option is also called monolithic reinforcement, because the result is actually a solid and inseparable reinforced concrete slab. Video: knitting reinforcing mesh
Rebar clamps can serve as an alternative to knitting or welding
Often, when forming a reinforcing frame, welding is used. For independent work, this option is suitable only for those who have a welding machine and enough skills to weld thin rods and wire. By the way, in industrial construction, only professional welders who have already proven themselves are allowed to perform such work, because this type of work requires attention and accuracy. If the welding technology is violated, the reinforcement and wire at the joints often become thinner, which negates all the benefits of the frame.
how to pull a house with 7x8 fittings and price. Petya. Brick outbuilding. The house is 50 years old. Need to strengthen the house reinforced screed due to cracks.
Read: Ideas for rework, repair and operation " Khrushchev refrigerator» do-it-yourself Video: mesh formation for reinforcement by welding
During the reinforcement of a concrete floor, it is often required to bend the reinforcement to form the frame. This operation should only be carried out using mechanical means without heating, as is customary among some unconscious masters. With any heating, the metal changes its structure and can easily burst. Method 2: wire mesh reinforcement
A simpler reinforcement option is a wire mesh. This method allows you to strengthen the screed up to 80 mm thick. It can be used when forming a multi-layer subfloor on a soil base or as a reinforcing screed on floor slabs in areas that are particularly subject to stress, such as kitchens, bathrooms, hallways or garages. The reinforcing mesh should also be distributed in the thickness of the solution, which will fill the floor. In fact, the scheme of reinforcing mesh in place is similar to the first stage of performing wireframe reinforcement. As a result, the grid is installed at a height of 2-3 cm and poured with a solution.
The mesh can be either twisted wire or welded. It should be borne in mind that welding is only advisable when using wire and fittings with a diameter of 6 mm or more. If a heat-insulating layer and waterproofing are located under the screed layer, then binding to the walls is not performed and the mesh should be 3-5 cm away from the walls with its edges.
Ready-made metal meshes for concrete reinforcement are available for sale. It is enough to lay them in strips over the entire surface of the floor with visits of 1-2 cells on top of each other and tying them with wire. At a cost, this option is only slightly more expensive than using wire for self-forming the mesh. On the other hand, much less time is spent and the reliability of the mesh itself is somewhat higher.
Method 3: reinforcement with polymer meshes
This is one of the simplest reinforcement methods. It is mainly used not to specifically strengthen the screed structure, but to prevent cracking of concrete or cement mortar during complete drying and minor deformations. Often the mesh is placed directly on the base, especially if it is a film located on a bulk cushion or a layer of thermal insulation to prevent cracks from forming on the underside of the screed.
Read: soft walls in the interior with your own hands
Most wide application polymer meshes were found in the process of reinforcing the self-leveling floor. This is due to the simplicity of its distribution and the peculiarities of the technology of self-leveling floors. During their formation, the main desire is aimed at reducing the volume of the spent solution and the thickness of the resulting layer, and reinforcement options using wire rod, and even more so reinforcement, are not suitable for this. Method 4: Use Additives in Solution
fiberglass
In modern construction, fiber is gaining more and more popularity. These are polymer fibers with a thickness of about 15 microns. By adding them to a cement-sand mortar or concrete, you can strengthen the screed layer and prevent the formation of microcracks during the drying process.
Even if the conditions for proper drying and setting of concrete are somewhat violated, the risk of microcracks in concrete is significantly reduced. However, one cannot rely on microfiber for the sake of wanting to circumvent the requirements and technological aspects of concrete floor formation.
Video: pouring reinforced concrete slab
General Tips
When using any method of reinforcement, options for adding microfiber or plasticizers to concrete can be used. It is only necessary to follow the instructions for their use and dosage.
The process of forming a screed or self-leveling floors contains many nuances and steps, in addition to reinforcement, that must be taken into account and performed in order to obtain a reliable base for the floor as a result. The most complete and complex is the process of forming and reinforcing the floor on the ground. At the same time, up to the concrete screed and reinforcement, layers of sand, gravel, thermal insulation and waterproofing are installed. Violation of the technology for building such a "pie" will negate any efforts to reinforce.

Building a house using bricks is one of the most common options today.

According to the degree of coverage, the collapse can be:

Complete. All load-bearing outer walls are deformed to varying degrees.
Incomplete (partial). Some walls are deformed.

In both cases, even if only one wall collapses, we recommend applying a preventive screed on all sides to prevent the development of movement on other walls.

Depending on the degree of collapse of the walls, measures of different depth of impact are used. We will conditionally divide the degree of collapse into three categories - light, medium and strong, and tell you what to apply in each of the cases.

Easy collapse

signs

The wall heads are noticeably deformed in the area up to 1/3 of the wall height (without the height of the foundation). Cracks at the corners of openings in 50% of cases. The remaining sections of the walls and foundation are normal (without cracks, deformations).

Cause

It arises due to the unreliability or absence of an armored belt, roof overload, during the construction of an attic floor on old walls.

Note. The most common mistake leading to roof overload is unaccounted for snow load.

Elimination Method

In this case, it is reasonable to use a steel mono-clip (hereinafter referred to as the clip) on the corner stops for wall screeding. In this case, as in all cases of using various clips, the rods will pass from the outside along the facade of the load-bearing walls, standing in the shape of a rectangle. Sometimes it is necessary to make technological openings for rods in the walls of extensions.

What you need:

Steel corner 100x100 mm (minimum 75x75) - 4 m.
Pipe 1 inch - 1 m.
Threaded stud 20 mm - 4 m.
Nuts and washers for studs.
A circle (steel bar) with a diameter of 20 mm or a strip of 40x4 mm - the length of the perimeter of the house.
Welding, painting.

Note. It is undesirable to use reinforcement for rods, because it is not designed for outdoor work and is subject to corrosion.

How to make a corner stop: on a steel corner 100x100 mm long, equal to the distance from the top of the wall to the top window openings plus 20%, pipe sections 150 mm long are welded.

The number of stops is equal to the number of corners (4).

Work order:

Rods (strips) are welded into two continuous lashes with a length along the walls of the house minus 200 mm (per tightening stroke).
Then, studs with a free end of 200 mm are welded at the ends of the lashes.
The pins are threaded into the tubes and the lashes are welded together in the middle.
The entire structure is assembled on the ground and fixed at the required height.
The nuts are tightened to a state of tension.

Attention! When using steel clips and ties, remember that they are designed to fix walls. An attempt to return the walls to their original state can result in breaches and sagging areas.

The design of the steel clip may vary. For example, in the case of wave-like deformations, a channel can be used as one, several or all four rods. Installation will be more difficult, but the entire load from the wall will be evenly distributed over the rigid channel.

Average camber

signs

All signs of light collapse extend to the level of 50% of the wall height (excluding the foundation). The probability of cracks in the corners and boundaries of openings is 80%.

Cause

Weak armored belt. Absence of a bunch of corners and masonry in the material of the walls, high wear of the material, overload.

Elimination Method

In these cases, a solid corner clip is used. It is arranged similarly to a mono-clip, but along the entire height of the wall and has more screed belts. With an average collapse, it is recommended to arrange three belts.

In all cases, the circle can be replaced with a 10x40 mm steel strip.

Attention! Welds must be of good quality (they hold the load). Overlap - 250 mm.

strong collapse

signs

All signs of medium and light, but at a level of more than 50%. In the vast majority of cases, it is accompanied by the appearance of deep, sometimes open, cracks along the walls and foundation.

Cause

Most often deformations of the base or foundation in combination with the causes of light and medium collapse. May be accompanied by partial destruction of the foundation.

Elimination Method

For repair, a solid corner clip is used and retaining wall(support) or retaining belt of the foundation.

Retaining wall or support - part of the reinforcement belt applied to the deformed area.

A retaining belt is a repair structural element designed to reinforce existing foundation walls along their entire length. It is used when it is necessary to strengthen the foundation. Material - reinforced concrete.

Support device. Consider the example of a corner section. A solid belt is arranged in a similar way.

First you need to determine the size of the backwater. If we had to resort to such drastic measures, it means that it is too late to calculate the load, especially since the existing foundation remains in place. Therefore, we simplify the calculations in the direction of increasing the margin of safety. The thickness of the backwater should be 50% of the thickness of the foundation wall, but not less than 400 mm. If possible, the bottom of the support and the foundation should be on the same level. Optimal ratio above ground to underground - 1 third above ground, 2 thirds underground.

Attention! The reinforcing bars at the corners must be solid (curved at 90°). The minimum side of the corner support is equal to three thicknesses of the support.

Work order:

We dig out the damaged area and clean the trench. We clean the foundation wall from oils and organics, the remnants of waterproofing.
We drill holes with a diameter of 18 mm into the foundation wall to a depth of 200 mm in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 200 mm.
We drive in reinforcing pins with a diameter of 16 mm and a length equal to the thickness of the backwater plus 200 mm (driven into the wall) minus 40 mm (protective layer).
We tie the working reinforcement with a diameter of 16 mm to the pins with a knitting wire in increments of 200 mm.
We make U-shaped clamps from 10 mm reinforcement according to the dimensions of the beam frame (support) 600x360x600 mm (blank length 1600 mm) and install them in 200 mm increments.
We set the formwork to size.
We lay concrete (factory or prepared on site) with vibration.
After the concrete has set (3 days), we remove the formwork and apply waterproofing.
We produce backfilling of soil with tamping and spilling.

Support reinforcement: 1 - foundation; 2 - working L-shaped rods Ø 16 mm; 3 - formwork; 4 - U-shaped clamps Ø 10 mm; 5 - rods driven into the foundation, Ø 16 mm

The cost of the device 1 running. m of support 400 mm thick, 600 mm high in the production of concrete on site:

Name	Unit rev.	Qty	Unit price, rub.	Total cost, rub.	Note
Armature 16	linear m	20	30	600	Wall pins and working rods
Armature 10	linear m	10	20	200	U-shaped clamps
knitting wire	kg	0,5	200	100	Binding of all frame elements
Concrete	cube m	0,25	1000	250
Waterproofing	sq. m	1	20	20
Formwork costs	sq. m	1	100	100	Self-tapping screws, nails, boards
Additional expenses	-	-	300	300	Disks, drill, etc.
total material				1570	Depends on local conditions and contract
Work				1000
Total material and work				2570

obstruction

The walls are piled into the building. It can be complete or partial (incomplete). In different degrees of deformation (light, medium, strong), one method of stopping is used.

Note. To repair the blockage, it will be necessary to carry out welding work indoors, which is most often associated with a major overhaul of the entire building. Take care of fire safety.

Full blockage

sign

Three or more walls (to varying degrees) are littered inside the building.

Cause

Weak armo-belt, wear of material, violation of technology during construction (weak mortar, lack of reinforcement of corners, etc.).

Elimination Method

Rigid spacer self-supporting steel cage (frame) on a through fastening.

What you need:

Perforator with drill 18-20 mm.
Channel 50x100-150 - length, equal to the perimeter walls to be reinforced.
Steel plate 200x200x3-4 mm (up to 300x300).
Reinforcement 16 - 3 wall thicknesses per linear meter of the frame.
Good welding (tension), coloring.

Operating procedure:

Determine the perimeter of the walls to be reinforced. If necessary, we punch technological holes (for the channel) in the partitions.
We break each wall into steps close to 600-700 mm (but no more). We retreat ½ step from each corner.
Burim through holes 18-20 mm.
We weld reinforcement pins perpendicularly onto steel plates with a length equal to the wall thickness plus 100 mm.
We install the resulting anchors in the holes with the plate facing out.
Trying on the inside of each channel, mark it under the holes.
We burn holes in the channel for fittings by welding.
We paint the outer shelf of the channel with a primer (it will adhere to the wall).
We install the channel on the pins in the holes.
We weld the pins in the holes.
In the same way, we install the continuation of the channel.
When the entire perimeter is installed, we weld the channel to each other along the joint and make welded overlays from reinforcement 16 - 2 per joint with an overlap of 300 mm.
We strengthen the corners in any way possible (for welding).

An ideal option for such a clip is if it is then closed by a suspended ceiling. Then you can arrange diagonal traction. If a false ceiling is not expected, we close the bus with a box.

Attention! The plates on the outside and the fittings welded to them, passing inside the wall, are a strong cold bridge and it will destroy the wall with condensate. Be sure to insulate the plates, and preferably the entire wall.

Partial blockage

sign

One or two walls are littered.

Cause

The walls are located close to a busy roadway (with a tram). Rinse with atmospheric water.

Elimination Method

The device of a partial clip according to the principle of continuous. The side of the interrupted corner is equal to one third of the length of the littered wall, but not less than 1.5 meters.

The device of a partial inner cage: 1 - a wall with a blockage; 2 - fittings with a plate; 3 - channel 100x50x4 mm

With combined collapses / blockages (when the walls diverge in different directions), the inner frame (first of all) and the outer screed (secondary) are used together. AT severe cases use all amplification options at once or their combinations.

Calculation of the cost of 1 linear meter of the inner clip:

Name	Unit rev.	Qty	Unit price, rub.	Total cost, rub.
Armature 16	linear m	1	30	30
Channel 100x50x4	linear m	1	200	200
Plate 300x300x4	PCS.	2	150	300
Primer	-	-	20	20
total material				550
Work				1000
Total material and work				1550

Annex branch

Let us consider the most complex and at the same time popular case - the combined one.

sign

Through crack along the inner corner or at the junction of the extension with the main building with a medium or strong collapse of the outer wall.

Cause

Lack of binding to the wall of the main building during the construction of the extension (in 90% of cases). Weak foundation under the walls of the extension. Overloading of the extension (superstructure, balcony).

Elimination Method

Combination of a through, semi-through or anchor cage and support:

Through clip - rods pass through the load-bearing wall and are fixed (nuts, welding) on a stop rail or plate located on the inside of the wall.
Semi-through clip - one side of the type is through, the second is fixed from the outside to the embedded part.
Anchor holder - rods are fixed to embedded parts arranged on anchors in the walls of the building.

Attachment screed options: 1 - semi-through; 2 - through; 3 - anchor; 4 - corners 100x100 mm; 5 - thrust (rod, plate); 6 - main walls; 7 - plate with anchor; 8 - plate 4 mm

You can arrange any of these types of clips using the instructions above.

Device rules anchor rods:

The thrust rail or plate located inside the building must not fall on the top of the doorway.
Install embedded parts in the walls at a distance of 1/3 of the length of the extension wall, set aside from the junction of the walls, but not less than 1.5 meters. Drill 3 points with a diameter of 12 mm, a depth of 2/3 of the wall thickness.
If the number of anchor rods is more than 2, place them with a 1 meter difference in length.
The walls of the main building should not have deformations and cracks.

The support can be either separate (under the outer wall), or along the entire length of the extension foundation. In this case, the reinforcement is driven into the foundation of the main building at an angle.

Most often, the types of deformations described above occur in houses made of marl or brick laid on clay. Even in the case of the initial stage of deformations (the appearance of small cracks), we recommend applying a prophylactic screed at home on the corner clips. Remember that any metal passing through the wall into the room is a cold bridge and will negatively affect the condition of the wall if it is not thermally insulated.

Vitaly Dolbinov, rmnt.ru

The described problem resembles a typical case bearing capacity changes due to changes in hydrogeological conditions. The bearing capacity of the foundation of the house was not enough, and after the first crack it began to actively collapse at an increasing speed (now much less forces are needed to develop destruction). The reinforcement in the foundation and masonry (armor belts) is most likely absent, and after the appearance of a crack, there is nothing to hold the walls of further destruction.

This problem is fixable. In any case, you should check with the designer-calculator, giving him the opportunity examine the structure of the building in detail. Surely the cost of restoring the integrity of the house will be incomparable with the cost of building a new similar structure or the risk of its sudden catastrophic destruction.

The procedure for restoration work

1. Provide an opportunity for specialists examine the house in detail, including excavation of pits along the foundations, punching walls for taking samples and studying their structure.

2. If necessary, perform foundation strengthening. There are many ways and techniques, so without studying the real situation it is difficult to advise anything. If, however, a specialist recommends strengthening the foundation with an increase in its depth, you should first strengthen the house according to the recommendations below, and then return to strengthening.

3. Need inject cracks and tighten the building. For this you need:

3.1. Clear the plaster along the cracks to the brick. The width of the cleared strip is at least 5 cm.

3.2. Wash out the cracks water from a pressurized hose. Remove loose pieces of old mortar from cracks and any other debris that can be removed.

3.3. Glue fiberglass over cracks on epoxy. After 20-30 cm, leave holes with a diameter of 8 mm.

3.4.fill the cracks repair compound. Gives good results regular glue for tiles. The solution should be diluted to the state of liquid sour cream. As an injector, a syringe gun is also used to seal the seams of panels or a conventional silicone gun with an empty bottle of some kind of sealant. Fill cracks from the bottom up from the outside and inside walls at the same time to the hole. Then you need to close it with a stopper (you can use plasticine), move the injector higher and repeat the operation. In this case, it would be preferable to use a professional injector.

3.5. pull down the building strands of smooth reinforcing steel according to this scheme.

Puffs should be placed under the ceiling of the 2nd floor and above the floor of the 1st floor. Due to the high coefficient of thermal expansion of steel, they should only be placed inside the house. The range of rolled metal in the figure is indicated approximately, based on the fact that the building is brick and has maximum size 8x8 m. The process of tightening the screws should be started at the highest possible temperature inside the building. Tighten the screws evenly throughout the building. Upon completion of this work weld nuts with electric welding, paint metal parts, plaster or concrete strands and nuts with plates on the facade, perform final finishing.

If it so happens that a crack has gone along the load-bearing wall or foundation, this is not a sentence yet, it's just time to take drastic measures to strengthen the entire structure. We will talk about the simplest and most popular methods for maintaining the integrity of a building in this article.

Note. The article uses conditional terminology.

By purchasing finished house, the new owner in all cases is dealing with a pig in a poke. And it doesn't matter if it's a new building or a renovated old one. Builders build and repair cottages and private houses in a fantastically short time, which always affects their stability and durability. Regardless of the reasons for the appearance, a crack is a frequent and faithful companion of stone buildings and structures. It will be about the most difficult cases these unpleasant and dangerous defects - structural cracks, which serve as signals about the appearance of mobility of load-bearing elements. To stop the development of a crack, you should stop the movement and fix the elements, and then repair and "mask".

Note. A crack in the finish does not always mean the presence of defects in the wall material. You should verify that it is the carrier material that is damaged by removing part of the finish and exposing the defective area for observation.

Let's leave the theory and consider the three most common cases of the appearance of the mobility of elements: collapse, blockage and separation of the extension.

collapse

In the case of collapse, the walls and corners have a visual deviation from the vertical outwards, sometimes in waves. Walls can also be wave-like deformed or deviated by the entire plane. In most cases, this is accompanied by the appearance of cracks in the upper corners of door and window openings.

According to the degree of coverage, the collapse can be:

Complete. All load-bearing outer walls are deformed to varying degrees.
Incomplete (partial). Some walls are deformed.

In both cases, even if only one wall collapses, we recommend applying a preventive screed on all sides to prevent the development of movement on other walls.

Easy collapse

signs

Cause

It arises due to the unreliability or absence of an armored belt, roof overload, during the construction of an attic floor on old walls.

Note. The most common mistake leading to roof overload is unaccounted for snow load.

Elimination Method

What you need:

Steel corner 100x100 mm (minimum 75x75) - 4 m.
Pipe 1 inch - 1 m.
Threaded stud 20 mm - 4 m.
Nuts and washers for studs.
A circle (steel bar) with a diameter of 20 mm or a strip of 40x4 mm - the length of the perimeter of the house.
Welding, painting.

Note. It is undesirable to use reinforcement for rods, because it is not designed for outdoor work and is subject to corrosion.

How to make a corner stop: on a steel corner 100x100 mm long, equal to the distance from the top of the wall to the top of the window openings plus 20%, pipe sections 150 mm long are welded.

The number of stops is equal to the number of corners (4).

Work order:

Rods (strips) are welded into two continuous lashes with a length along the walls of the house minus 200 mm (per tightening stroke).
Then, studs with a free end of 200 mm are welded at the ends of the lashes.
The pins are threaded into the tubes and the lashes are welded together in the middle.
The entire structure is assembled on the ground and fixed at the required height.
The nuts are tightened to a state of tension.

Attention! When using steel clips and ties, remember that they are designed to fix walls. An attempt to return the walls to their original state can result in breaches and sagging areas.

Average camber

signs

All signs of light collapse extend to the level of 50% of the wall height (excluding the foundation). The probability of cracks in the corners and boundaries of openings is 80%.

Cause

Weak armored belt. Absence of a bunch of corners and masonry in the material of the walls, high wear of the material, overload.

Elimination Method

In all cases, the circle can be replaced with a 10x40 mm steel strip.

Attention! Welds must be good quality(they hold the load). Overlap - 250 mm.

strong collapse

signs

All signs of medium and light, but at a level of more than 50%. In the vast majority of cases, it is accompanied by the appearance of deep, sometimes open, cracks along the walls and foundation.

Cause

Most often deformations of the base or foundation in combination with the causes of light and medium collapse. May be accompanied by partial destruction of the foundation.

Elimination Method

For repair, a solid corner clip and a retaining wall (support) or a foundation retaining belt are used.

Retaining wall or support - part of the reinforcement belt applied to the deformed area.

Support belt - repair structural element designed to reinforce existing foundation walls along their entire length. It is used when it is necessary to strengthen the foundation. The material is reinforced concrete.

Support device. Consider the example of a corner section. A solid belt is arranged in a similar way.

First you need to determine the size of the backwater. If we had to resort to such drastic measures, it means that it is too late to calculate the load, especially since the existing foundation remains in place. Therefore, we simplify the calculations in the direction of increasing the margin of safety. The thickness of the backwater should be 50% of the thickness of the foundation wall, but not less than 400 mm. If possible, the bottom of the support and the foundation should be on the same level. The optimal ratio of above ground to underground is 1 third above ground, 2 thirds underground.

Attention! The reinforcing bars at the corners must be solid (curved at 90°). The minimum side of the corner support is equal to three thicknesses of the support.

Work order:

We dig out the damaged area and clean the trench. We clean the foundation wall from oils and organics, the remnants of waterproofing.
We drill holes with a diameter of 18 mm into the foundation wall to a depth of 200 mm in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 200 mm.
We drive in reinforcing pins with a diameter of 16 mm and a length equal to the thickness of the backwater plus 200 mm (driven into the wall) minus 40 mm (protective layer).
We tie the working reinforcement with a diameter of 16 mm to the pins with a knitting wire in increments of 200 mm.
We make U-shaped clamps from 10 mm reinforcement according to the dimensions of the beam frame (support) 600x360x600 mm (blank length 1600 mm) and install them in 200 mm increments.
We set the formwork to size.
We lay concrete (factory or prepared on site) with vibration.
After the concrete has set (3 days), we remove the formwork and apply waterproofing.
We produce backfilling of soil with tamping and spilling.

Support reinforcement: 1 - foundation; 2 - working L-shaped rods Ø 16 mm; 3 - formwork; 4 - U-shaped clamps Ø 10 mm; 5 - rods driven into the foundation, Ø 16 mm

The cost of the device 1 running. m of support 400 mm thick, 600 mm high in the production of concrete on site:

Name	Unit rev.	Qty	Unit price, rub.	Total cost, rub.	Note
Armature 16	linear m	20	30	600	Wall pins and working rods
Armature 10	linear m	10	20	200	U-shaped clamps
knitting wire	kg	0,5	200	100	Binding of all frame elements
Concrete	cube m	0,25	1000	250
Waterproofing	sq. m	1	20	20
Formwork costs	sq. m	1	100	100	Self-tapping screws, nails, boards
Additional expenses	-	-	300	300	Disks, drill, etc.
total material				1570	Depends on local conditions and contract
Work				1000
Total material and work				2570

obstruction

The walls are piled into the building. It can be complete or partial (incomplete). In different degrees of deformation (light, medium, strong), one method of stopping is used.

Note. To repair the blockage, it will be necessary to carry out welding work indoors, which is most often associated with a major overhaul of the entire building. Take care of fire safety.

Full blockage

sign

Three or more walls (to varying degrees) are littered inside the building.

Cause

Weak armo-belt, wear of material, violation of technology during construction (weak mortar, lack of reinforcement of corners, etc.).

Elimination Method

Rigid spacer self-supporting steel cage (frame) on a through fastening.

What you need:

Perforator with drill 18-20 mm.
Channel 50x100-150 - length equal to the perimeter of the walls to be reinforced.
Steel plate 200x200x3-4 mm (up to 300x300).
Reinforcement 16 - 3 wall thicknesses per linear meter of the frame.
Good welding (tension), coloring.

Operating procedure:

Determine the perimeter of the walls to be reinforced. If necessary, we punch technological holes (for the channel) in the partitions.
We break each wall into steps close to 600-700 mm (but no more). We retreat ½ step from each corner.
We drill through holes 18-20 mm.
We weld reinforcement pins perpendicularly onto steel plates with a length equal to the wall thickness plus 100 mm.
We install the resulting anchors in the holes with the plate facing out.
Trying on the inside of each channel, mark it under the holes.
We burn holes in the channel for fittings by welding.
We paint the outer shelf of the channel with a primer (it will adhere to the wall).
We install the channel on the pins in the holes.
We weld the pins in the holes.
In the same way, we install the continuation of the channel.
When the entire perimeter is installed, we weld the channel to each other along the joint and make welded overlays from reinforcement 16 - 2 per joint with an overlap of 300 mm.
We strengthen the corners in any way possible (for welding).

The ideal option for such a clip is if it is then closed by a false ceiling. Then you can arrange diagonal traction. If a false ceiling is not expected, we close the tire with a box.

Partial blockage

sign

One or two walls are littered.

Cause

The walls are located close to a busy roadway (with a tram). Rinse with atmospheric water.

Elimination Method

The device of a partial clip according to the principle of continuous. The side of the interrupted corner is equal to one third of the length of the littered wall, but not less than 1.5 meters.

The device of a partial inner clip: 1 - a wall with a blockage; 2 - reinforcement with a plate; 3 - channel 100x50x4 mm

With combined collapses / blockages (when the walls diverge in different directions), the inner frame (first of all) and the outer screed (secondary) are used together. In severe cases, all amplification options are used at once or their combinations.

Cost calculation 1 running meter inner cage:

Annex branch

Let us consider the most complicated and at the same time popular case, the combined one.

sign

Through crack along the inner corner or at the junction of the extension with the main building with a medium or strong collapse of the outer wall.

Cause

Lack of binding to the wall of the main building during the construction of the extension (in 90% of cases). Weak foundation under the extension walls. Overloading of the extension (superstructure, balcony).

Elimination Method

Combination of a through, semi-through or anchor cage and support:

Through clip - rods pass through bearing wall and are fixed (nuts, welding) on a stop rail or plate located on the inside of the wall.
Semi-through clip - one side is a through type, the second is fixed from the outside to the embedded part.
Anchor clip - rods are fixed to embedded parts arranged on anchors in the walls of the building.

Attachment screed options: 1 - semi-through; 2 - through; 3 - anchor; 4 - corners 100x100 mm; 5 - thrust (rod, plate); 6 - main walls; 7 - plate with anchor; 8 - plate 4 mm

You can arrange any of these types of clips using the instructions above.

Rules for the installation of anchor rods:

The thrust rail or plate located inside the building must not fall on the top of the doorway.
Install embedded parts in the walls at a distance of 1/3 of the length of the extension wall, set aside from the junction of the walls, but not less than 1.5 meters. Drill 3 points with a diameter of 12 mm, a depth of 2/3 of the wall thickness.
If the number of anchor rods is more than 2, place them with a 1 meter difference in length.
The walls of the main building should not have deformations and cracks.

The support can be either separate (under outer wall), and along the entire length of the extension foundation. In this case, the reinforcement is driven into the foundation of the main building at an angle.

Vitaly Dolbinov, rmnt.ru