Plasterboard false ceiling elements. The device of false ceilings from hl. There are a number of nuances

A plasterboard suspended ceiling is a fairly simple solution. A plasterboard suspended ceiling can be made your own using step-by-step instructions. The functionality and technical characteristics of drywall make this material the most popular among the rest of the variety of finishing methods offered by the modern construction market. GKL is especially often used in the design of ceiling surfaces. It not only levels the ceilings, but also allows you to implement unique design tasks in the form of complex multi-level structures. Even a single-level plasterboard suspended ceiling will look spectacular if supplemented with original lighting.

Gypsum plasterboard suspended ceiling: materials and tools

Most of the tools used in the installation can replace each other. Therefore, when compiling a list, it is worth focusing on those that you have at home. To install a false ceiling you will need:

pencil, building or laser level, upholstery cord - for marking;
puncher or impact drill for making holes for dowels and self-tapping screws;
screwdriver and bits of different diameters;
a hacksaw for metal and a construction knife.

profile;
drywall;
fasteners;
metal screws, dowels 6 mm.

To perform the finishing of drywall, you need:

mesh-serpyanka;
sealing tape;
primer;
putty;
roller or brush;
spatula (large and medium);
fine-grained sandpaper;
acrylic or water-based paint.

Suspended plasterboard ceiling - profile

For mounting the suspension system, two types of profiles are used:

guides. They are installed along the walls along a horizontal line that outlines the perimeter of the room, they are the basis of the entire suspended structure;
ceiling. Made in the shape of the letter "C" and are metal strips 3-4 meters long.

The strength and reliability of a false ceiling does not depend on the shape of the profiles. But when choosing elements, you need to pay attention that they are all from the same manufacturer.

If you decide to install plasterboard suspended ceilings in the bathroom, purchase material labeled moisture resistant. GKL sheets of this type have a characteristic green tint. Special additives allow the material to retain its original qualities throughout the entire service life, despite the high level of humidity and sudden temperature changes.

When finishing the ceiling surface from the living room or bedroom, you can buy a regular gray plasterboard with a sheet thickness of 8-10 mm. It does not make sense to take sheets of greater thickness for self-assembly of the structure. The thicker the material, the more difficult it is to work with.

Gypsum plasterboard suspended ceiling - Fasteners

Fasteners - the parts on which the suspended ceiling will be held.

To ensure reliable fixation of structural elements, you will need:

straight hangers. Their number is determined taking into account the distance between adjacent elements (no more than 60 cm);
crabs are used to connect parts at right angles. The number of crabs is equal to the number of compounds formed with their help;
extensions are used to build a profile.

Dowels 8x10 cm act as suspension fasteners. To connect two pieces of the profile, as well as fix the frame to the concrete floor, galvanized screws 4.2x5.1 cm are used. GKL sheets are fixed to self-tapping screws 25 mm long.

Before starting the installation of a false ceiling made of plasterboard with our own hands, we make markings for the base of the future ceiling. To do this, we find the lower corner in the room, we retreat down from it to the required distance. The minimum distance from the draft ceiling surface to the suspended structure must be at least 5 cm. You need to choose your distance, taking into account the communications passing under the ceiling, which are supposed to be installed fixtures, which can be increased up to 30 cm.

If the room is small, use a hydraulic level in your work; in large rooms, it is better to use a laser level for more accurate marking of lines. After you find the dots in all four corners, connect them together with a horizontal line using upholstery cord.

The next step is marking for fastening the longitudinal profile. Elements should be located from each other at a distance of a multiple of the width of the GCR. For example, drywall sheets are produced with a standard width of 120 cm. Thus, profiles are best fixed in increments of 60 cm from each other.

The distance between the suspensions on the ceiling is approximately 50 cm. At such intervals, marks are made on the lines that were drawn to fasten the longitudinal profile. The transverse profile is mounted in increments of 60 cm. Thus, the result is a cellular frame with regular-shaped rectangles and a side length of 50x60 cm.

Installation of a suspended structure frame for a plasterboard ceiling - step by step instructions

In the photo, the frame of the suspended structure from the profile

The frame for the GKL false ceiling is mounted as follows:

on the line outlining the perimeter of the room, we drill holes in increments of 40 cm for dowels. Using dowels, we attach a UD profile to the wall;
we install suspensions that will hold the longitudinal ceiling profile. We fix each suspension to the base base with the help of two dowel-nails;
before proceeding to the installation of the ceiling CD-profile, we check the evenness of the structure with the help of a nylon thread stretched under the base of the false ceiling. We adjust the height of the frame with suspensions;
we first fasten the longitudinal profiles in the supporting profile located along the perimeter, after which we sequentially fix the strips in the hangers;
we fix the transverse elements of the frame in increments of 60 cm. With their ends they will be attached to the wall profile, and along the length - to the longitudinal profiles using special connectors (“crabs”).

Important! Longitudinal, transverse ceiling profiles and plasterboard sheets should not fit tightly into the guide profiles. The small gap left during installation of the structure will act as a ventilation system, allowing air to circulate freely between the ceiling base and the grid.

How to properly lengthen the profile

Often, suspended plasterboard ceilings have to be installed in large areas, and therefore there are situations when the length of the CD profile is not enough, so you have to increase it. The easiest way, which is used by most professional builders, is to extend the profile using special one-level connectors. The algorithm of actions will be as follows:

we insert the connector inside the profile;
from the other end of the connector we insert the end of another profile strip;
we check the quality of the connection for rigidity and, if everything is in order, we bend the edges of the profile with pliers;
Now we strengthen the connection with metal screws. To do this, screw the screws from the end of the profile.

Video for clarity

In addition to this universal and most common method, there are other methods by which the ceiling profile is extended. For example:

elongation using a cutter. This is an expensive tool that is used by professionals. The advantage of using it is that there is no need to additionally strengthen the connections with self-tapping screws;
rack profiles in drywall construction are sometimes connected using self-tapping screws. This method is not the most reliable and is used only in extreme cases, when it is impossible to find a suitable connector or solve the problem in another way.

Before proceeding to the final stage of installing a plasterboard suspended ceiling, the GKL sheets need to be given time to adapt to the climatic conditions of the room. To do this, they are placed in a room in a horizontal position and left for several days.

When sheathing the ceiling, proceed as follows:

cut the chamfer from the ends of the GKL sheet with a knife at an angle of 45 ° by 5 mm;
start fastening the first sheet from any corner in the room to self-tapping screws after 15 cm along the edges and after 20 cm in the middle. Step back from the edge, at least 1.5 cm, so as not to damage the end of the GKL;
at the junction of two adjacent sheets, leave 2-3 mm of free space, the same gap must be left at the junction of the plasterboard and the wall;
pay attention to the fact that the head of each self-tapping screw must be recessed into the material by 1-2 mm. The recess will subsequently be sealed with putty;
proceeding in a similar way, sheathe the entire frame with drywall. It is better to fasten the sheets in a checkerboard pattern so that they are offset relative to each other.

UD profile. The standard length of the elements is 3-4 meters. To determine the required number of planks, divide the perimeter of the room by the length of one segment, round the resulting figure to a higher value;
cd profile. In this case, the standard size of the GKL sheet is taken into account: 1200x2500x12.5 mm, 1200x3000x12.5 mm or 1200x2500x9.5 mm and the direction in which the ceiling profile will be installed. The best option is mounting in width. With this method, material waste will be much less.

On one sheet of GKL you will need three profiles, which must be placed in increments of 60 cm from each other. If the room where you are installing the plasterboard false ceiling is long and the profile needs to be extended, add the missing segment length to your calculations;

suspensions. The first element is fixed at a distance of 30 cm from the wall surface, the next - in increments of 60 cm. Therefore, for one profile 3 meters long, five hangers must be purchased;
transverse jumpers are usually made from CD-profile scraps and installed every 50 cm;
single-level crab connectors are also fastened every 50 cm between hangers. Thus, five crabs are needed for one profile 2.5 m long.

Knowing the perimeter of the room, you can easily calculate the number of elements needed to install a false ceiling.

As for the dowels and self-tapping screws, the profile on the dowels is attached to the wall every 30-40 cm from each other. Suspensions are also fixed to the dowels, and two fasteners are needed for one suspension.

The profiles are fixed to the hangers with metal screws (also 2 pcs per hanger). To install one crab, 8 self-tapping screws are required.

To calculate the number of sheets of drywall, you need to calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling surface, dividing it by the same indicator for one sheet.

Sealing joints when installing a plasterboard ceiling

Making a false ceiling from plasterboard with your own hands is only a small part of the finishing work. It is necessary to close the seams and cracks on the new structure in such a way that after painting the surface becomes perfectly smooth and even. It is at the junction of the elements that ugly gaps are formed, which can disperse over time. To avoid such a nuisance, you need to carry out quality work to strengthen them:

clean the joints from dust with a dry sponge or paint brush;
Apply a deep-penetrating primer to all joints, covering a distance of 7-8 cm on both sides of the joint. Handle the ends of the sheets especially carefully;
after the primer has dried, stick a sickle tape on the joints;
prepare a special solution for Knauf seams. Gently apply the mass to the joints and press it in with a spatula (until all voids are completely filled and the sickle mesh is closed);
also seal the recesses from the screws with a small amount of the composition;
after it dries, using fine-grained sandpaper, rub all puttied places, prime the entire suspended ceiling;
if you are going to paint your structure, you need to finish the ceiling putty with a thin layer of putty mixture, re-clean the surface after drying and prime. Only after such manipulations can you safely proceed to staining.

As you can see, installing a plasterboard suspended ceiling with your own hands is not at all difficult. The main thing is to follow the sequence of steps, correctly calculate and choose materials. Then the self-assembled structure will delight with its appearance for a long time.

Video: plasterboard suspended ceiling

To bring to life their most daring ceiling design projects, designers use drywall. With the technology of mounting plasterboard ceilings, it is necessary to create a central flat surface that allows you to work with complex decor elements. At the same time the design differs in the special durability and reliability.

The simplest installation of a false ceiling is to install a ceiling with one or two levels. The technique of creating a drywall ceiling from two levels will be discussed a little later. But you can get acquainted with some of the intricacies of installing a single-level plasterboard ceiling in the material "Do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling in the kitchen: installation features."

Ceiling fixing markings

According to the installation technology of a suspended plasterboard ceiling, the first thing to do is to mark:

So, a perfectly even horizontal line is applied to the walls, which will become a feature of the ceiling level. To do this, use a long building level or water level (spirit level). The most acceptable level length is one and a half to two meters, while it should have four strips in the viewing window - two on one side of the air bubble and two on the other side. Subject to these requirements for the tool, marking accuracy is guaranteed.
When the line is drawn, its end must converge with its beginning, while its slightest shift is not allowed. When marking in the corner of the room using the building level, you should follow the rules for working with the hydraulic level. To do this, when marks are applied to adjacent walls, the level should be placed both on the surface of these walls and in the corners of the spacer.

Scheme of technology for the installation of plasterboard ceiling

After completing the creation of the horizontal level of the ceiling, the next step is to mark the ceiling with the attachment points for direct suspensions. As a result, a grid with cell dimensions of 600 x 600 mm should appear on the ceiling. Very often, at the edges of the room, the dimensions of the cell do not correspond to the specified 600 mm, in which case their dimensions should be reduced and made symmetrical with respect to opposite sides.

Installation of profiles for fixing drywall

Installation of the guide profile

The next step in the installation of a plasterboard ceiling involves sheathing the entire perimeter of the room with guide profiles (PN). The size of such a profile is 2.7 x 2.7 cm. Of course, this process has its own characteristics:

Installation of U-shaped suspensions

Installation of U-shaped suspensions is carried out according to pre-planned markings on the draft ceiling. In this case, the interval should be within 70-100 cm, and the distance from the wall to the suspension on opposite walls should be the same.

To fix the hangers, do not use dowel-nails for vertical fasteners. It is recommended to use plastic dowels and screws. If the draft ceiling is made of concrete, metal dowels designed for heavy structures will be the best solution. However, you should be careful, because the frame dowels are also metal, but they are completely unsuitable for this purpose.

At the joints of the guide profiles, U-shaped hangers should be installed on both sides of the joint.

Elements for fastening the frame of a plasterboard structure to the ceiling

At the end of the process of fixing U-shaped profiles, the next step is the installation of ceiling profiles (PP). Their parameters are - 5.6 x 2.7 cm, sometimes there are sizes of 6 x 2.7 cm.

Installation of ceiling profiles

The first thing to do when installing ceiling profiles is to fix the long profiles on the ceiling from wall to wall. Then install short transverse profiles between them. In this case, cross connections are made using a special fastener.

PP is mounted from the wall and inserted into the guide profiles. Then they indicate the horizontal level of the location of the ceiling profiles (a level is used for this purpose), and then it is fixed with a double-sided connection to the U-shaped suspension. At the same time, metal-to-metal screws (self-tapping screws) are used for such a connection.

To make the job easier, you can use the following tips:

The most rational solution would be to install the longest profiles parallel to the wall with the window. In this way, attention can be diverted from minor defects at the junction of drywall sheets, which will be attached in the direction of natural light from the window.

Fastening drywall to the frame

A solid sheet of drywall (gypsum plasterboard) is attached transversely to long guide profiles.

Sheets are connected in the central part of the profile. For high-quality installation of GKL on a profile, it is recommended to work with a partner. To attach the sheets to the profile, self-tapping screws are used, while the screw is slightly “recessed” in the drywall sheet, about two to three millimeters. The distance between the screws should be approximately 250-300 mm, and from the corners of the drywall - 30-40 mm.

In addition, the screws should be fastened no closer than 10-15mm from the edge of the drywall. When screwing in self-tapping screws, you should be extremely careful not to chip the edge of the sheet. However, if such a nuisance nevertheless happened, it is necessary to remove the screw and screw in a new one at a distance of 30-40 mm from the chipped point.

When attaching sheets of drywall to the ceiling, you must remember the following nuances:

When installing drywall sheets, remember that there is a narrow profile at the corners of the room, and this can complicate the installation process;
For a beautiful aesthetic appearance of a plasterboard ceiling, you should follow a simple rule: fewer edges - a more beautiful look;
In the process of screwing in self-tapping screws, you should adhere to the same depth of "drowning" at all attachment points. Such accuracy will come in handy later, at the stage of painting work, it will allow them to be carried out with the highest quality;
In order to avoid unpleasant situations, such as height differences at the joints of sheets, the best option would be to use products from one manufacturer (for example, Knauf).

Gypsum board cutting technology and painting work

To carry out the marking of drywall sheets, an aluminum rule is used, which should be thoroughly cleaned of all kinds of contaminants. If such a tool is not available, you can use a flat rail.

Marking is made on the sheet, drywall will be cut off on it.
Next, an incision is made with a depth of 2-4 mm according to the rule (or rail). To do this, use a sharp construction knife so that the line is even and not interrupted.
After that, a sheet of drywall is placed on the edge of the table and, with the help of a careful but sure movement, breaks. With a properly made incision, the drywall sheet will break evenly.

Drywall Cutting Instructions

Cardboard will remain on the back of the sheet, it can be cut with a construction knife.
You can use a planer or #4 or #6 sandpaper to smooth the cut edge.

To paint a plasterboard ceiling (to familiarize yourself with the rules for painting work, read: How to paint the ceiling in the kitchen: paint selection and work procedure), you must use a paint bandage and paint mesh, which are used to glue the joints of drywall with the wall and joints.

The process of marking the ceiling to accommodate spotlights should be performed before the last paint application. This procedure will help prevent smudges and help keep the marks for the light points visible. The final coat of paint is applied in the direction of the strongest light stream.

Technology: for painting a plasterboard suspended ceiling, the best solution would be to use a roller, this will save paint and allow you to create a uniform coating

The above rules for the technology of creating suspended plasterboard ceilings will allow you to carry out high-quality installation on your own. However, this can only be achieved if all instructions and recommendations are strictly followed. Otherwise, you risk getting a curve and an unreliable ceiling at the exit, which will need to be redone.

A fairly simple plasterboard ceiling device allows you to build it with your own hands.

At the same time, you do not need any special skills - a minimum skill and at least some skills in working with the most common tools are enough.

Suspended ceiling: an overview

Suspended ceiling design

To begin with, let's figure out what is the device of such a ceiling?

A plasterboard ceiling is a rather rigid metal frame attached to the ceiling and walls, sheathed with plasterboard sheets on the underside.

It is made of a special profile of galvanized metal, and suspended from the ceiling on a rigid suspension, or on a rod suspension with special brackets.

The frame elements are arranged in such a way as to facilitate their sheathing with drywall as much as possible, and to make the structure as reliable as possible.

To give greater rigidity, the frame is also fixed to the walls of the room using a profile of a special shape.

By design, suspended ceilings are:

single level
Multi-level (in this case, the frame is mounted in such a way that the planes for plasterboard sheathing are at different levels).

Fundamentally, the device of a single- and multi-level plasterboard ceiling does not differ, so if the technology is mastered on simple options, then you can cope with a more complex design.

What will we need?

As we noted at the very beginning of the article, no complicated tools are required to equip a plasterboard false ceiling. But the materials will have to be purchased.

We will need:

Drywall- ordinary construction or moisture resistant. Depending on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room and on the number of ceiling levels, it is not difficult to calculate the number of drywall sheets, especially since most manufacturers make them in a standard size - 2500x1200 mm.
Frame profile- both starting (attached to the walls around the perimeter of the room), and the main carrier (suspended from the ceiling)
Hangers- we choose depending on the distance between the ceiling and our future suspended ceiling.
For a ceiling located at a great distance from the ceiling, a suspension on a wire rod with a bracket is suitable.

fasteners- dowels and screws
Putty for sealing joints between sheets of drywall on a finished ceiling

Of the tools you need to have at your disposal:

Perforator
screwdriver
Knife or saw for cutting drywall
Metal shears for profile cutting
Level (you can also use a regular building level, but laser is better)
Roulette

As you can see, nothing too complicated or expensive. When everything is bought, you can start working on arranging the false ceiling.

Plasterboard ceiling: do it step by step

Profile frame

The installation of suspended ceilings begins with the installation of a frame from a special profile:

we clean the old finishes, remove the chandelier and prepare communications (for example, wires, if we plan to make built-in lighting)
Then, on the walls of the room along their entire perimeter, we draw a base line indicating the level of our future plasterboard ceiling.

Note!

Since it depends on the baseline how even our ceiling will be, we must use the level to align it.

Best of all, of course, is a laser, but a regular one is also suitable - as long as it is long enough and accurate.

Along the baseline, we begin to mount the starting metal profile. To fix the profile in the walls using a perforator, we drill holes, where we then hammer in the dowels. Dowel sleeves can be used both metal and plastic - anyway, the load on this fastener assembly is not very large.
Having fixed the starting one, we go to the ceiling itself. Having marked the main lines, we attach suspensions to the ceiling, after which we bend the suspensions vertically down. If a rod suspension is used, we fasten its bases to the ceiling also on the dowel.
Next, from the main bearing millet, we assemble a frame of longitudinal and transverse beams. We fasten the profile beams to the suspensions and connect them together.
To connect them, we use longitudinal connectors, as well as crab-type connectors, which allow joining the beams at a right angle.

With the help of the level, we control the horizontalness of the lower plane of the frame. If there are no complaints, you can start trimming.

The technology for mounting a false ceiling for greater clarity is presented in the video below:

Fixing drywall

Fastening drywall to a profile is the stage that completes the installation of drywall ceilings: there is a video attached to this article that will help you consider all the nuances in fixing.

We will give an algorithm for independently performing this stage of work:

Note!

If you are working alone, then to facilitate fastening and ensure accuracy, the craftsmen recommend fixing the drywall to the frame with clamps.

Using drywall screws and a screwdriver, we fasten the sheets to the frame.
The head of the self-tapping screw should not protrude above the surface of the sheet, at the same time it should not be pressed into it too much - otherwise the fastening will suffer.

We putty the fixed sheets of drywall, paying special attention to the joints and masking the self-tapping screws. We process the dried putty with fine sandpaper.

That's all! At our disposal is a perfectly flat ceiling, ready for any finish.

The above plasterboard ceiling technology allows you to build both simple single-level ceilings and complex structures. Of course, for the construction of a multi-level irregularly shaped ceiling, you will have to try with the design, and maybe even master the profile bending technology - but the result is worth the effort!

Here is an instruction describing the installation of a plasterboard ceiling. It is quite detailed and understandable even to those who have not encountered the GKL. All stages are considered - from the project to the rough finish. In addition to standard techniques, you will learn some tricks to save time or money. At the beginning of the article, lists of the necessary tools and materials are given, as well as conditions recommended for such work. Then a short workflow is given. And from the next section, which is called “Plan and calculations”, a direct detailed description of each stage begins.

Where does the installation of drywall on the ceiling begin?

With wall decoration. The fact is that the correct installation of drywall on the ceiling requires perfect. So before starting ceiling work, the walls must be prepared for fine finishing (plastered and puttied). Or at least sheathed with drywall.

The future ceiling also needs to be prepared. Remove the old trim if it gets in the way. Fix all communications on the floor - wires, air ducts, pipes.

The rules for installing a plasterboard ceiling are almost the same as for. There are some difficulties. But in general, the idea is worth it, even if you first encountered the GKL. Of course, for the installation of plasterboard ceilings, it is desirable that you have at least a little ability to handle power tools and have some physical strength.

What is required for the installation of plasterboard ceiling

You will have to work with long and relatively heavy materials. You will definitely need an assistant.

Of the tools you will need:

water or laser level;
pencil;
marker;
scissors for metal (a grinder is suitable);
perforator;
a hammer;
screwdriver and some PH2 Phillips bits.

The list should be supplemented with tools and devices that will greatly facilitate your work:

Chalk shnu
Special bit for drywall with limiter

It will be useful and the usual building level. If you don't have a hydro level or a laser level and nowhere to get them, you can get by with the usual ones.

Trick: how to do without a laser level

Tape a standard level to a long, perfectly straight plank;
place the bar on a deliberately horizontal surface;
if the bubble is not exactly in the middle, slide a thin wedge under the appropriate end of the level. Try to align the bubble perfectly;
rotate the bar 180°. Make sure that in this position the bubble is exactly in the middle.

So instead of a short and inaccurate level, you got a long and accurate one.

You will also need finishing tools. The list will depend on the type of finish, but in any case, you need:

spatulas - narrow and wide;
bucket (or other convenient container).

It is advisable to have a drill attachment () for mixing building mixtures.

An elementary bench will help a lot. Forget about stepladders - working on them is inconvenient. Put together a simple bench from boards or twist a simple bench from chipboard. Calculate its height so that 10-15 cm remain above your head to the future ceiling surface.

List of materials:

guide profile;
ceiling profile;
single-level connectors (“crabs”);
longitudinal connectors (if longitudinal profiles longer than 3 meters are required);
straight suspensions (for heights up to 20 cm);
anchor hangers + rods (for a height of more than 20 cm);
dowel-nails with a diameter of 6 mm
or wood screws for wooden walls and ceilings (black, with a rare thread pitch);
self-tapping screws with a press washer 4.2 x 13 mm (silver, without a drill head);
(black, with frequent thread pitch)
and the drywall itself;
as well as ;
and sickle.

How many materials will be needed? In order to have enough, but not left surplus, you need an accurate calculation. How to do it, read in the "Scheme and calculations" section.

Work plan

We conditionally divide the installation of hl on the ceiling into five large stages. Further, each section of the article will describe these stages in full detail.

Scheme and calculations;
markup;
installation of profiles and suspensions;
drywall installation;
finishing/

By measuring the room and drawing up a diagram, you will get a clear idea of how much materials will be needed.

The technology of installing drywall on the ceiling requires accuracy. So that the structure does not warp, it is necessary to apply markings around the perimeter of the room with great accuracy.

Now let's count the number of profiles. The technology of plasterboard ceilings is as follows: first, a guide metal profile is fixed along the perimeter. Ceiling profiles are inserted into it and attached to it. Additionally, the profiles are attached to the floor with hangers.

Installation technology of plasterboard ceilings

Important: rules for mounting the guide profile

There should be no gaps between the sections of the guide profile. In the corner, one profile is inserted into the other until it stops. On one plane, the profile segments are joined in a butt joint. If there is an outer corner, then one of the sections of the profile should stick out by 27mm. Thus, a continuous belt is obtained from the guide profile.

To count the number of dowel-nails, focus on the mount approximately every 40-50 cm.

Long sections of the ceiling profile are installed exactly every 50 cm. Gypsum boards are placed across them. Thus, the edges of each sheet will lie clearly in the middle of the profile. Not a single edge should hang in the air! The edges adjacent to the walls will be attached directly to the guide profile.

Jumpers are inserted across the longitudinal profiles. These are segments of the same ceiling profile, installed in increments of 60 cm. The principle is the same: all edges of each sheet of plasterboard should fall into the middle of the profile. The middle of the sheet must also be fixed. The length of the jumpers = 50 cm minus the width of the ceiling profile (60 mm), i.e. 44 cm.

Suspensions are installed along the entire length of the longitudinal profiles with a step of 60 cm.

For clarity, draw all the profiles on your diagram so as not to make a mistake in the calculation. Each intersection of ceiling profiles is one crab and three metal screws (with a press washer).

Self-tapping screws for drywall are screwed in increments of 15 cm. Just take the total length of all profiles in centimeters and divide by 15.

Buy putty with the calculation of 1 kg of the finished mixture per 1 m 2, about 3 kg per sheet. A kilogram of exactly the finished mixture, not a powder.

Materials should be bought with a small margin - about 20%. Quickly calculate the right calculator.

markup

So, we begin directly the installation of ceiling drywall.

Usually drywall on the ceiling is mounted strictly horizontally. Arm yourself with a level and get ready to draw a horizontal line around the entire perimeter of the room. You can limit yourself to short strokes every half a meter. The main thing is that the ends of the markup converge exactly at the same level.

It is important to correctly position the sheets of drywall on the ceiling

Not to buy tools

It makes no sense to buy rather expensive equipment for one-time work. Tools such as a laser level, puncher and screwdriver can be rented.

You can draw a line with a pencil along a long straight bar. For this purpose, a piece of ceiling profile is suitable. You can put marks only in the corners, then drive carnations into them and pull the cord. But it is even easier to stretch a chalk cord between these marks and slap it on the wall - a perfect, straight and well-marked line will remain.

According to this markup, a guide profile is to be installed. Remember that the finish surface of the ceiling will be about a centimeter lower.

Next, you need to mark the installation locations of the ceiling profiles. Place the marks directly on the wall, just below the guide profile attachment line. They should be visible even after installing the GKL sheets. Apply strokes in 50 cm increments to install long ceiling profiles, in 60 cm increments for lintels.

It remains to mark the junction of the longitudinal profile with the jumpers. Draw on the metal with a marker. Put strokes every 60 centimeters on the longitudinal profiles. You can do this even before you install them in the guide profiles. Mark the ends you started with: they should all end up on the same side of the room.

Installation of profiles and hangers

Drill the guide profile with a 6 mm drill bit in increments of approx. When drilling into a wall, hold the profile firmly. Make sure that it does not move relative to the markup.

Through drilling of the guide profile is allowed

If you have drywall walls, then you need to imagine how far the drywall is from the wall. The working part of the dowel (with a notch) must completely sit in the concrete.

On walls longer than 3 m, be sure to “splice” the guide profiles by inserting one into the other. They also need to be joined in the corners. Then install the longitudinal ceiling profiles, inserting their ends into the guide profile.

Trick: how to insert the ceiling profile into the guide easier

Cut off the corners at the ends of the ceiling profile with scissors. This will make it much easier to insert it into the guide, especially if you are working alone.

Hangers are best installed before you fix the longitudinal profiles and install the jumpers. You just need to make sure that the profiles are exactly in their places: you will be guided by them where to put the suspensions.

For fastening to concrete, a dowel-nail is usually used. You can also take it - it holds much stronger, but it is also much more difficult to dismantle it.

Concrete floors in old apartments are insidious. It often happens that the drill, having passed a little less than a centimeter, falls into the void. You can deal with such surprises in different ways:

take a very long dowel-nail;
attach the suspension in another place;
instead of a dowel-nail, drive in a wooden cork and fix the suspension with a self-tapping screw.

It is better to mount a direct suspension not in the extreme holes (which are in the petals), but in the neighboring ones, located closer to the middle. It is, of course, more convenient to fasten by the petals: it is easier to get close to them when the frame is already assembled. But this method will allow the ceiling to sag a little.

You can use direct hangers even when the ceiling height from the ceiling is more than 20 cm. You just need to use two instead of one hanger.

But it is much more convenient to use an anchor suspension. Anchor hanger rod is attached to the ceiling in the same way as a straight hanger, through an eyelet, previously bent 90 ° with pliers. Please note that only the ear itself needs to be bent. The rest of the bar should remain perfectly straight.

Where to install hangers? Above each of the long ceiling profiles, with a step of about 50-60 cm. They must not get into the junctions of the longitudinal and transverse profiles! Focus on the markings previously applied.

direct suspension

Having nailed straight suspensions, bend the legs 90 ° down. Do this carefully - after bending the legs should remain perfectly straight.

When all hangers are nailed, install the longitudinal profiles according to the marking (every 50 cm). Fasten them with self-tapping screws through the guide profile, one at each end.

Tightening screws without a drill is not so difficult. The main thing is to use a suitable bit (marked “PH2”). Apply enough pressure on the screw (but without fanaticism) and turn at medium speed. After a second or two, the sharp tip will pierce the metal, and then the self-tapping screw is screwed in without difficulty.

Cut the jumpers. Please note that the length of the extreme jumpers will not be 44, but 47 cm. Attach the jumpers with “crabs”.

Ceiling crab for connecting transverse profiles

Crabs snap on top. They have special petals with holes for fastening with screws to the profile. Bend the petals and attach the crab with one self-tapping screw to the long profile. Before doing this, make sure that it has not moved relative to the label. Screw two more screws through the same petals into each jumper.

How to save on crabs

Make jumpers 6 centimeters longer. Cut off the side shelves 3 cm from each end. Screw the remaining, middle, part with a self-tapping screw directly to the long ceiling profile from below. Let it not bother you that the head of the self-tapping screw sticks out a little: this will not be a serious hindrance to a snug fit of drywall.

Options for connecting profiles without using a crab in the photo:

With such savings, the rigidity of the frame will suffer somewhat. Of course, the ceiling won't collapse; it will just be a little less smooth and durable.

Do not rush to screw straight hangers to the profile. The problem is that profiles with a length of 2 m or more will inevitably sag. Especially if you used an extension (longitudinal connector).

We eliminate the sagging with the help of a cord tightly stretched across all longitudinal profiles:

screw one self-tapping screw into the guide profile at each end of the room, in the middle of the wall;
tie a string to them and pull it properly;
you can see that the long profiles "lie" on the lace. Before attaching with hangers, lift them so that they hang 1-2 millimeters above the cord.

When all suspensions and all jumpers are screwed to the longitudinal profiles, the frame is ready. We proceed to the installation of drywall on the ceiling.

Installation of drywall sheets

But first you need to make insulation (if in your case it is necessary). There are different ways to insulate the ceiling. Perhaps the most convenient is mineral wool insulation. Roll insulation is simply placed on top of the frame. Work with gloves, goggles and a respirator - dust from mineral wool irritates even the skin, not to mention the mucous membranes.

And now you can screw the sheets of GKL. Start at the edge where the whole sheet fits. Position the sheet across the long profiles, close to the walls. If you did everything correctly and accurately, then the edges of the sheet along the entire length will be exactly in the middle of the ceiling profiles.

Screw the sheet to all profiles, both along the edges and in the middle. Self-tapping screws should go along the edge approximately every 15 cm, in other places you can increase the step to 20-25 cm.

How to attach sheets

GKL has a front side and a wrong side. On the front side, the chamfer along the longitudinal edges of the sheet is rounded and there is a slight unevenness. The back side is always flat.– for tight adhesion to the surface.

Screw in the screws ten millimeters from the edge. At least 15 mm must be retreated from the incised edge. Step back at least five centimeters from the corners!

The head of the self-tapping screw should be slightly recessed into the surface of the plate. Do it carefully: the self-tapping screw is quite easy to tighten, especially with a lack of experience. In such work, a special bit for drywall with a limiter helps a lot.

By the marks on the wall you will see where the profiles go. However, you can draw a sheet of drywall in advance, even before you lift it up and start fixing it. Continue the longitudinal row of sheets, end to end, without gaps. In this work it is difficult to do without an assistant.

Devices to not hold a sheet of drywall

Make a brace. Take a board a little longer than the height of the ceiling, screw a piece of board about a meter long across it to make the letter “T”. Reinforce with two planks obliquely. Such a device, similar to a mop, is used by masters of the whole world when they make installation of plasterboard on the ceiling.

Ways to install the GKL ceiling without an assistant:

Lift use

Homemade version of holding a sheet on the ceiling

The next row starts with half a sheet. The technology requires that the seams between the sheets do not intersect crosswise. The correct arrangement of the plates resembles brickwork.

How to cut sheets of drywall

With a knife. Can be office. Mark exactly the middle and make an incision along the ruler. You probably still have a piece of the ceiling profile - use it as a ruler. The incision may be shallow, it is enough to cut through the paper. Place the same profile under the cut or lay the sheet on the edge of the table and break it. It remains only to cut the paper from the back.

If you need to cut a very narrow strip, then it is easier to use a hacksaw for wood.

Cut edges need to be chamfered additionally. This is necessary for high-quality puttying. With the same knife, cut off a few millimeters from the front side at an angle of about 45 °. Accuracy is not required at this stage. Do not touch the factory longitudinal edges - their chamfer is already rounded.

Finishing

Prime the ceiling with a roller or large brush. With a small brush, carefully go over the seams.

After the primer has dried, apply the tape. It is glued only at the junction of two factory seams, as well as at the corners. Right after that you can.

Mix in a small amount of putty. At this stage, it is required to cover only the seams and recesses from the screws. Apply putty with a narrow spatula, then smooth with a wide one.

According to the technology, it is necessary to putty the seams twice. So you have to wait for the putty to dry, then apply a second, thin, layer. But before that, be sure to scrape off all the burrs with a spatula (just don't make much effort).

Conclusion

Actually, that's the whole article on how to mount a plasterboard ceiling. Save this page or print it - let it be your cheat sheet on how to install drywall on the ceiling.

Good luck with your repair! In addition, watch a video selection on the installation of GKL structures.

Today we will analyze how to install the simplest single-level plasterboard ceiling with our own hands. In another way, it is often called a suspended ceiling. Let's take a closer look at the advantages and disadvantages of drywall, what will be needed for its installation, marking the ceiling, the procedure for installing the frame and its cladding, how and how to seal the joints of the GK-sheets, and also how to avoid cracks. Go!

Pros and cons of drywall as a material for finishing the ceiling before plastering

The main advantages of the material:

Drywall allows you to level surfaces of any curvature, while the maximum layer of plaster on the ceilings cannot exceed 15 mm;
The Civil Code allows you to easily hide (or at least disguise) the existing communications and structures: wires, pipes, beams;
Plasterboard ceiling allows you to realize almost any of your fantasies in terms of lighting;
Design: countless shapes, two, three levels, niches for lighting;
Relative ease of construction;
The possibility of using heat and sound insulation;
No "wet" processes during installation - no need to wait several days for the surface to dry.

Disadvantages of drywall:

A significant reduction in the height of the room (depending on the curvature of the original ceiling and the possible need to install recessed fixtures) by at least 5 cm;
The relative complexity of installation and the need for tools such as a hammer drill and a screwdriver (read how to choose a screwdriver);
The potential for cracks to appear at the joints of sheets in the future (we will look at how to avoid this);
The need for the help of a partner.

Knowing all the pros and cons of drywall, it is impossible to unequivocally recommend it or not recommend it. Everything follows from the analysis of a particular room, but in most cases, its use is still preferable.

In this article, we will consider the most common way to install a false ceiling with your own hands - in one level on direct suspensions.

Tools and accessories

Necessary accessories for plasterboard ceiling installation:

Guide profiles PN 28×27 mm.
Ceiling profiles PP 60×27 mm.
Sealing tape.
Anchor wedges.
“Dowel-nails” (ordinary dowels and self-tapping screws will not work, since the holes in the profiles are larger than the self-tapping screw heads - 8 mm, and even more fuss with them).
Cord breaking device.
Hydraulic level / laser plane builder.
Bubble building level 2 m.
Rule aluminum 2.5 m.
Drywall sheets.
Putty for seams GK (Uniflot).
Reinforcing tape for seams (serpyanka).
Roulette.
A hammer.
Stationery knife (or special knife for cutting the Civil Code).
Perforator + drill.
Screwdriver.
Self-tapping screws for metal 25–35 mm (black, frequent pitch).
Self-tapping screws with a press washer.
Acrylic primer.
Single-level connectors CRAB.
Metal scissors.
Heat and sound insulation materials (if required).
Profile extensions (if required).
A set of spatulas (narrow, wide and for corners).

In the picture, all accessories follow in order:

It should be noted right away - much of what is now sold in hardware stores under the guise of profiles and suspensions is just foil. We offer to opt for Knauf products - you can recognize their profiles and sheets by the corresponding stamp.

A few words about the hydraulic level. It consists of two small flasks with water connected by a thin tube. The principle of its operation is based on the law of physics about communicating vessels, which makes horizontal marking with its help extremely accurate. When installing the ceiling, you can’t do without it (unless, of course, you have a laser level), because marking the entire perimeter of a room with a bubble level is not a quick or easy task.

With the hydraulic level, we only need to mark the corners, and then connect them by applying a “beat” (this is the simple name for a string fender). There are many types of drywall sheets. You and I need to know only two: ordinary and moisture resistant. It is unnecessary to say something additional about the first type, but the second one is used in rooms with high humidity, that is, in kitchens and bathrooms due to reduced moisture absorption achieved through the use of hydrophobic additives in gypsum. To distinguish these two species from each other is very simple - by color. Ordinary drywall has the color of plain cardboard - gray. Moisture-resistant sheets have a greenish color. For ceilings, sheets with a thickness of 9.5 mm are most often used.

Now about the sealing tape. It is self-adhesive, made of porous polymer material, width - from 30 mm. It is necessary for tight mating of frame elements with supporting structures, it also improves the acoustic properties of our ceiling. In addition, it is believed that it plays a significant role in protecting against cracks, allowing the structure to expand / contract slightly.

Marking, mounting guides

First we need to determine the lowest corner of the room. We take a tape measure and measure the distance from floor to ceiling in each corner, it is advisable to do this in the center of the room, just in case - you never know, suddenly the ceiling is sagging. We found the lowest corner, retreated 5 cm (if recessed fixtures are not planned) or 8 cm (if planned), put a mark. From this mark, using the hydraulic level, set aside the horizontal to all other corners. Now it remains to connect the labels with a spacer. Together with an assistant, pull the cord properly between the marks on one wall, pull it with your free hand and release it sharply. The cord, hitting the wall, will color it - here you have the finished horizontal. We do the same for all walls. Here's what we get:

It's time to fix the guide profiles on the walls. To do this, first attach one of them to the wall along the line and mark the future holes along the finished holes with a marker (if the holes on the profile are located far from the edge, you need to make additional holes with a perforator, stepping back from the edges by 5–10 cm), then put it aside for a while. We drill holes in the marked places. Again we take the profile and stick a sealing tape on it, after which we again apply it to the line and fix the dowel-nails to the wall. There must be at least three attachment points per profile. Here's what happens in the end:

Next, you should mark the axes of the main profiles. But first, let's decide which profiles to call. The main ones will be those profiles that are attached to the base with suspensions, and the carrier profiles are those that are attached only to the main ones. It is more logical to place the main profiles across (so it is less likely that they will have to be increased). The width of the sheet is 1.2 m, the step of the profiles must be less than an integer number of times. Usually it is 40 cm. We mark out:

Important: mark their position (both main and load-bearing) not only on the ceiling, but also on the wall under the horizontal line.

Carriers (with such a step of the main ones) are needed only at the transverse joints of the GCR, that is, their “step” is 2.5 m, which means that the step of the suspensions should be less than an integer number of times. 50 cm is suitable for us, but the first row of suspensions will not be 50, but 50/2 \u003d 25 cm from the wall, the next one will be 25 + 50 \u003d 75 cm, etc.

For marking, we take a suspension, apply it to the ceiling at the right points and mark with a marker the places for holes for anchor wedges. For one suspension, at least two are required.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for installing a suspended ceiling frame

We wait until the dust settles, stuff the pockets with anchor wedges and fasten the hangers. Don't forget to stick the sealing tape on them first. After fixing the hanger, carefully pull its ends down; during the subsequent fastening of the main profiles, they should not bend.

Now let's install the main profiles. If the width of the room is less than 3 meters, simply cut them to the length of the room minus 1 cm and insert them into the guides. If the room is larger, we lengthen each profile so that the resulting profile is again 1 cm shorter than the room. Moreover, the connections of neighboring ones should not be on the same line! And there should be a suspension near the extension cord. You need to start attaching profiles to suspensions from the corners of the room. Your assistant will need to attach the rule to the guides on the walls, forming an angle, the grip is as wide as possible so that the rule does not bend (this is very important!). Thus, it will support our PP, and it will stand on the same level with the guides. Your task at this moment is to fix it to the suspension on both sides with four (2 per side) self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws with a press washer are best taken without a drill. You will do it longer, but everything will come out very strong. So, we fixed it near one corner, we also fix it near the second. If it is not possible to fix the middle of the profile in this way, you should simply attach a rule along it from below, then we will fix it without any problems. We bend the excess length of the suspensions up (or pre-cut it, as in the pictures). We control the process with a two-meter level.

Using the same method, we hang the second profile, relying so far only on the guides. Then we go to the opposite wall, we mount 2 more main PCBs. If there are more between these four, we expose them, relying on the already fixed ones. But if the room is very large, we continue to go from the edges to the middle and, as soon as it becomes possible, we use the already fixed profiles to expose the rest.

You can pull the cord and expose it, but the cords tend to sag, besides, in this case it is much more difficult to hold the profile during vibration from a screwdriver. Let's look at our result:

Now we hang CRABs on the places where the profiles will join, and fix them with four self-tapping screws, two per side. If you lower the ceiling slightly, please note that then you will have to insert the CRABs into the main PCB BEFORE they are installed. In general, make sure that the connectors pass over the profiles.

As soon as all the CRABs are in place, we cut the supporting profiles (remember the margin of 1 cm) and insert them into them, fixing them with four self-tapping screws, each. Please note, we DO NOT fasten the carrier to the guide at the bottom with a self-tapping screw, but simply insert it. They will stick together when we sew the sheets. If it is required to make soundproofing of the ceiling, mineral wool is usually used. It is cut into rectangles slightly larger than the frame cells and simply pushed into them, additionally clinging to the curved suspensions. That is, roughly speaking, it hangs on the frame. When working with it, use gloves and a respirator - the thing is extremely unpleasant, but you will be surprised how well it absorbs sound. It will be useful to study the article about soundproofing an apartment with your own hands,.

Video: Suspended ceiling from Knauf sheets

Installation of drywall on the frame

Important: before starting the installation of drywall sheets, they must necessarily undergo acclimatization in the room - a couple of days, at least. In addition, the storage of sheets of the Civil Code is only allowed in a horizontal position.

Before installation, it is necessary to process the edges of the sheets - chamfer with a knife at an angle of 22.5 degrees. to a depth of 2/3 of the thickness of the sheet (of course, approximately); this applies to end edges that are not pasted over with cardboard. The sheets should be fastened from the corner, the recommended pitch of the screws is 17 cm, on adjacent sheets, the screws must be screwed in different directions. We try to maintain a distance of 10 mm from the factory edge of the sheet and 15 mm from the one we cut. The heads should be slightly recessed, but do not pierce the cardboard, check by touch. It is very important to sew the sheets apart, at least by a step of the main profiles (40.2 cm), and leave a small gap between them (2 mm), by the way, between the sheets and the walls - too . If the self-tapping screw does not stubbornly pierce the frame, we throw out and screw in another one, stepping back from the hole 5 cm.

We also attach to the guide profile. Surely there are people who believe that this cannot be done - they say, this is what Knauf technology claims, for this it was necessary to insert the carrier profiles close to the guides. Indeed, in the materials of this company there is a drawing where there are no screws through the guide profile.

Therefore, for the purity of the experiment, we turn to Giprok's materials, and there we see the following:

Self tapping in place! But another one is missing here - the one that should be in the carrier profile! But Knauf is the opposite!

So, we attach the sheets to the PN. Another important detail. Do not allow sheet joints near the outer corner:

This rule also works in the case of multi-level ceilings in the absence of a wall:

The joint must be at least 10 cm from the corner. Violation of this rule threatens with an almost inevitable crack.

Let's summarize what we have done so far. Here is the plan of the main ceiling of our virtual room:

Now we know the whole technology of installing a plasterboard ceiling and can calculate how much material we need in reality. According to the drawing, we used: 99 suspensions, 8 sheets of civil code, at least 19 ceiling profiles, 8 guides, at least 24 CRABs.

Seam sealing

Before sealing the seams, they must be primed and wait for the primer to dry completely. When sealing, special extra strong putties are used. Knead a little, following the instructions on the bag. With the first layer we hammer in all the seams: both “ours” and factory ones (first we fill in the space between the sheet and the wall, then we apply a layer), as well as recesses from self-tapping screws. For factory ones, you will need a wide spatula. Particular care should be taken to fill the factory seams near the walls, now the main thing is that the putty does not stick out.

We are waiting for the putty to grab, and this will happen in a matter of minutes (in the case of Uniflot). For high-quality reinforcement of the joints, a special Knauf Fugendeckstreifen Kurt paper tape is used. On the factory edges, the tape fits into the Uniflot layer, after which it is covered with it. On cut edges, you can also use Uniflot, or you can glue the tape on PVA so that it does not stick out so much. If you glue on Uniflot - pre-moisten the tape in water, otherwise it may turn out that you will not be able to expel a certain amount of putty from under the tape, and you will form a bump. And if the tape is moistened, the putty will glide well on it. At the corners, we recommend using a special spatula - with it everything will turn out faster and better. Kurt tape has a fold line in the center, especially for the convenience of gluing on inner corners. On seams with cut edges, the tape will give small protrusions, but that's okay - this is corrected by subsequent puttying the entire surface.

Ready. We have a surface ready for subsequent puttying. We minimized the possibility of cracks on the plasterboard ceiling, but to completely eliminate this possibility, we use it. It is glued to the entire area, previously already puttied, puttied again and painted. Yes, it takes a lot of time and effort, yes, the price of the issue is high. But the ceiling is guaranteed not to crack.

That's basically it. Now we can make a plasterboard ceiling at home with our own hands.