Interior decoration of the steam room and sink: how to finish, what options are there, examples with photos. How to finish the bath inside: what materials should be discarded when finishing the steam room, and which should be used? What material is sheathed inside the bath

Bath is an amazing place for relaxation and recuperation. Therefore, it should be not only hot, but also comfortable. Each owner strives to give his bathhouse an attractive appearance both outside and inside. In this article, we bring to your attention a few tips on how to equip, the interior decoration of which is no less important than the construction itself.

So, if you are planning to do the interior decoration of the bath yourself, then this article will come in handy for you. Here you will find professional instructions for different types of finishes, and step-by-step photos of important finishing works, and detailed videos that will help you solve your tasks at the highest level. Our advice will help you not to deviate from the principles of building technology when cladding, sheathing, etc.

Finishing inside the bath is the most important stage of construction. Its quality and level of performance determine not only the aesthetic characteristics of the bath, but also the atmosphere of coziness and comfort, the degree of convenience. In addition, the materials used for finishing directly affect the creation of a special microclimate in the bath and its healing properties. The main task of finishing is to make your stay in the bathhouse as pleasant, comfortable and useful as possible.

A modern Russian bath involves the presence of several rooms:

vestibule;
steam room;
washing.

If you have built a large bath, then it is quite possible to equip an additional relaxation room, a billiard room, a kitchen area, a playground, a pool and much more in it. Theoretically, you can plan and build any bath, equipped with everything that you think is necessary and useful. However, this does not affect the basic defining requirements for the bath:

all rooms should have an attractive and practical design;
in the steam room there should be hot and pleasant steam;
in the washing should be comfortable and safe.

Finishing has a big impact on the functionality of the bath. Even if you used high-quality material for construction, which does not require mandatory interior decoration, it still needs to be done in the bath. Properly selected materials will allow you to create optimal conditions for a comfortable stay, as well as significantly extend the life of walls, floors, ceilings. Materials are selected in accordance with the purpose and characteristics of a particular room. How best to finish the steam room, washing, vestibule, read below.

When planning the finishing of a steam room, take into account the following features of this room:

The constant presence of heated steam coming in a concentrated and dense stream;
Temperature fluctuations, heating to high temperatures;
High humidity level.

The conditions in the steam room are, one might say, extreme. Many materials are simply not designed for use in such an environment. However, the modern widest range of finishing materials makes it possible to choose the option that will best meet even such harsh conditions. We recommend paying attention to the sheathing board. Its characteristics must meet the following requirements:

Low heat capacity, the ability to quickly warm up and not accumulate heat;
moisture resistance;
High aesthetic characteristics;
Pleasant smell, no tar when heated;
Resistance to fungus and mold;
Air purification.

Today, there are several classes of lining:

C-class. Differs in low cost. But for finishing the bath, its characteristics are not high enough.
B-class. Such material may have contrasting spots, cracks, minor damage, resin pockets. This class includes material on which, for every 1.5 m of length, there are no more than four knots;
A-class. May have shallow cracks. There should be no cores in the cut. No more than one knot per 1.5 m of length is allowed on each panel.
Premium class. The highest quality and corresponding cost. The color is uniform, cores and knots are absent.

The most common profiles are eurolining, thorn-groove, Softline, Calm.

Linden lining shows excellent results as an interior finish for a bath. Its density is quite low, due to which it does not heat up very much in the steam room. However, it does not emit tar. Linden panels provide excellent sound insulation.

And also lining from other types of wood is suitable for solving this problem. For example, cedar and aspen have proven themselves well.

When choosing one or another material for sheathing, carefully inspect the panels. The wood must be dry, well-treated, and free of nicks, knots, and other obvious defects. A high-quality material must meet these requirements, and only it will provide an aesthetic, reliable, durable finish.

Additional processing by special means does not require the material for sheathing the steam room. Do not use antifungal, antiseptic compounds or paints and varnishes. All these products are harmful to humans, and when heated, they will begin to actively release their wood, making bath procedures more dangerous than useful.

Before proceeding with lining the clapboard, the steam room must be insulated. An affordable and time-tested material that is suitable for this purpose is mineral wool. It is the most sought after in this area. Another option, no less effective, is basalt wool. It successfully copes with the effects of high temperatures, so it will last a little longer than mineral wool. But if we talk about the ideal insulation for a steam room, then one cannot but recall the cork agglomerate. Among its advantages are hypoallergenicity, resistance to fungi and rot, fire resistance.

The floor in the steam room should be pleasant to the touch, non-slip, not cold and not too hot.

The washing room is designed not only to take a shower and wash yourself properly at a comfortable temperature. The washroom should have a place to relax, so you can leave the steam room for a while, pamper yourself with massages, face and body masks and other relaxing and enjoyable treatments. It is necessary to think over all these possibilities before starting finishing work, and even better - at the construction stage.

In any case, the choice of finishing materials should be carried out taking into account all these functions of the washing room. The best option is wood or ceramic tiles. If for a steam room you can choose among hardwoods, then only conifers are suitable for a washing room - pine, spruce, larch. It is very easy to explain this choice. Softwood is resinous and highly water-repellent. Therefore, under washing conditions, it will perform better than hardwood, and will last for many years, while maintaining a pleasant appearance.

Particular attention should be paid to the selection of material for finishing floors in the washing room. The main qualities of the finished floor in this room are a comfortable temperature and anti-slip properties. To achieve this result, the base for the floor is made of concrete, and ceramic tiles are laid out on it. In order to prevent strong slipping, wooden pallets or removable logs are placed on the ceramic floor. After each visit to the bath, they are taken out into the air to dry. However, the floor in the washroom can be completely wooden, but ceramic tile as the main finish is a more practical and durable option. She copes well with an abundance of water, various cosmetics, shampoo, etc.

A high level of humidity is maintained in all areas of the bath. This is the most important aspect that must be considered when choosing finishing materials. For the vestibule and other rooms, you can use any type of wood. But don't limit yourself to wood. Other materials are also suitable for high-quality and stylish finishing of the vestibule, rest room and other bath rooms:

Porcelain stoneware;
Plaster;
Natural stone;
fiberglass wallpaper;
Majolica.

Various combinations of these materials open up wide possibilities for aesthetic and practical decoration of the baths. For example, a combination of natural stone and wood looks very solid and beautiful. Do-it-yourself bath will allow you to translate non-standard creative ideas into reality. The interior decoration, the photo of which is presented on this page, will help you choose the best materials and their combinations.

The ceiling of the bath must withstand high temperature loads, as well as cope with the flow of hot wet steam. Do not forget about the need to protect the floors from heat and steam with the help of heat and vapor barrier materials. For this purpose, you can purchase building membranes or aluminum foil. If you put them hermetically, then their effectiveness will be equally high. It is not recommended to perform vapor barrier with foil with a layer of cotton wool, because this material has a thinner thickness, so it is much more difficult to work with it during the sheathing process. The same applies to foil with a layer of polypropylene foam. This material, when exposed to high temperatures, releases substances toxic to humans, therefore it is unsuitable for use in bath rooms.

Each joint of the vapor barrier and thermal insulation is glued with aluminum tape to ensure complete tightness. Sometimes, when performing work, the material is pierced, torn, etc. If this happens, then the hole formed in the material must be immediately sealed with aluminum tape, because later you may simply not remember about it or not find the damaged place. As a result, the vapor barrier will be leaky and of poor quality.

The steam room requires a pipe hole. It is equipped with a box with a stainless steel frame filled with expanded clay.

Cutting the ceiling for a pipe hole must be carried out taking into account maintaining a sufficient distance from the wooden floor to the outer contour of the pipe, as well as taking into account the characteristics of the chimney used.

To make a pipe hole you will need:

2mm stainless steel sheet
galvanized box;
Clamp clamp.

Cutting the ceiling is carried out mainly in order to ensure the fire safety of the ceiling slabs. In addition, in this way, the elements of the chimney receive additional support and are securely fixed in place. Cutting allows you to design the outlet of the pipe.

The box 400x400 mm is installed from the side of the attic. A sheet of stainless steel 500x500 mm is attached to it from below, from the side of the steam room. Near the steel lining, the pipe is fitted with a clamp, preventing the pipe from coming into contact with the furnace. This significantly extends the life of the furnace, since the entire load from the pipe falls on the upper steel circuit.

After the box and the steel sheet have found their places, the inside of the box is insulated and covered with expanded clay. This will prevent heat loss through the duct contour.

The steel sheet on the ceiling provides additional protection against high temperatures.

We bring to your attention an instruction that will help you complete the lining of the ceiling in the bath with clapboard quickly, economically and efficiently:

The ceiling is sheathed with slats 2x4 cm. They are fastened with a distance of 40-45 cm. In those places where the frame is attached, ventilation gaps of 10 mm must be left.
Horizontal slats are placed on the walls perpendicular to the lining;
Fastening panels begins with one of the walls. The first bar is exposed with the groove out. The spike of another panel is hammered into it. The order of connection of the spike and groove can be changed, it is not fundamental.

When sheathing, use rubber pads and a mallet to handle the material gently and gently without damaging it.

Fasten the planks using special clamps. Kleimers are attached to the rail with a screw or nails. You can also use a construction stapler, it will be even more convenient. With the help of a stapler, the fastening is reliable, and the time to complete the work is significantly reduced.
There should be gaps between the sheathing and the wall, up to 2.5 cm in size. They are necessary for additional ventilation and to prevent deformation of the finish. To mask the gaps, it is enough to nail the ceiling plinth. The first panel and the last are attached with inconspicuous nails. It is necessary to hammer in such nails at an angle, and drive the hat tightly into the wood.

Do not forget that the sheathing should be carried out along strictly vertical lines. A level check is required after each panel installed. If there is no level at hand, then you can simply measure the distance between the wall and the edge of the sheathing. It should be equal along the entire length of the bar.

If the values obtained as a result of the measurements diverge, then the lining must be knocked out so that the measurements converge. Otherwise, the skin will turn out uneven and sloppy. Stuffing is done with a piece of panel, which is driven into the groove with a mallet or hammer to fit the size.

You can achieve perfect evenness in another way. The wooden lining is fixed and sharp wood chips are hammered under it.

The only material suitable for wall cladding in a steam room is wood. It is also suitable for other bath rooms, but other materials can also be used in them - stone, tile, etc. In the vestibule and the relaxation room, you can create original ensembles by combining different materials.

Clapboard wall cladding

According to the main parameters, wall cladding with clapboard is performed in the same way as ceiling decoration.

The first stage is to fill a thick beam around the perimeter in a horizontal direction. Step - 80-100 cm.
In the recesses between the bars you need to put a heater. For example, mineral wool. It is cut with a sharp knife into appropriate pieces. It is not necessary to tamp the heater.

Note! All work with mineral wool should be carried out with gloves, a respirator and goggles.

Then a vapor barrier is laid, each joint is glued with aluminum tape.

Pay special attention to insulation in corner joints.

Don't forget to leave gaps for ventilation. To do this, you can fill the remote rail. The crate is created at right angles to the lining. Therefore, if you want to sheathe the walls, placing the lining vertically, then the crate must be nailed horizontally.

First of all, rails for the frame are installed in the corners of the walls in a vertical position. Care must be taken to ensure that their position remains strictly vertical. In order to facilitate the alignment of the horizontal slats, string can be pulled between the vertical slats at the ceiling and floor.

With separate bars, you need to separate the area of \u200b\u200bthe door and the window;
Now you can go directly to the paneling.

It is recommended to fasten the lining for baths from one corner in the vertical direction. Due to this, it will be easier for water to drain from the walls, without lingering in the grooves of the panels. If you like a horizontal pattern, then the panel spike should be directed upwards so that moisture does not collect or linger in the grooves. In this case, you need to start work by fixing the boards to the ceiling. The crate in this situation is performed in the vertical direction.

The lining is directly fastened with kleimers, nails, self-tapping screws or a construction stapler. If you are using self-tapping screws or nails, then insert them at an angle, driving the caps deep into the wood. Ventilation gaps of about 2 cm should remain between the ceiling and the sheathing, the floor and the sheathing.

A common problem that people face when doing self-cladding of the walls of the bath with clapboard is the need to cut the material. It's easy to do. You can cut the lining with a fine-toothed saw or a jigsaw.

The last panel on the wall is cut to the desired size and fixed to the crate. The next wall starts with a panel where the comb is cut off. It should fit snugly against the last rail of the previous wall. In the corners, the elements must be adjusted especially precisely. Determine the exact angle values before sawing the batten or panel. Draw a line with a pencil on the material to avoid mistakes. There should be no seams at the corners of the panels.

The most important moment when performing finishing work inside the bath is the insulation of the furnace. The following materials are suitable for solving this issue:

Stainless steel sheets of appropriate size;
Minerite is a special material with high heat-resistant characteristics. It is a mixture of cement, reinforcing fiber and mineral fillers. With a close location of the stove near the wall, the mineralite must be put in two layers. If at least 40 cm remains between the oven and the wall, then one layer will be enough.
Ceramic heat-resistant tiles;
Solid red brick. They need to lay out the walls from the floor to the base of the pipe or higher;
Profile iron is the cheapest option.

Ceramic tiles are the best option for finishing all bath rooms, except for the steam room. Considering the modern variety of models and collections, it will not be difficult to make the design of a rest room or washing room not only practical, comfortable and durable, but also aesthetic. The most important argument in favor of tiling is its excellent moisture resistance.

Laying tiles is carried out step by step. The first step is preparation. The second is the direct execution of work.

Preparatory stage

The preparation of concrete or cinder block walls consists in removing dust, dirt, plastering and leveling. The preparation of wooden walls is to perform waterproofing. With a construction stapler, roofing felt, roofing felt is nailed onto wooden panels. A chain-link mesh is sewn on top of the waterproofing, on which a concrete solution is densely placed.

Then, in both cases, it is necessary to nail an even beam. It will become the basis of a fine finish. Instead of a bar, a metal profile is also suitable. Do not forget to check the horizontal and vertical rows during the laying process. For horizontal, use the building level. For vertical, you can use a plumb line.

Instructions for laying tiles in the bath

You can prepare a tile fixing solution yourself. To do this, you need to mix cement and sand in a ratio of 1:5. But you can also buy a ready mix. It is recommended to give preference to a special adhesive designed for laying tiles in rooms with high humidity and temperature fluctuations. Tiles must be immersed in water before laying to remove air. Thanks to this, the tile will adhere much better to the mortar.

Start of work - from the attached level. The first row must be laid out especially diligently, because it is he who determines the evenness of all subsequent rows and the accuracy of the entire lining.

Glue is placed on the reverse side of the tile. Use a notched trowel for this. Glue can also be applied to the wall. Then the tile is carefully applied to the wall and pressed down so that the adhesive protrudes slightly beyond its edges. You can adjust the position of the tile with a rubber mallet.

It is important to maintain an equal distance between the tiles. Therefore, after you lay adjacent rows, fix special plastic crosses in the corners of the tiles. This will keep the same gap both in length and in height.

It will take a couple of days for the tiles to dry. After that, you can remove the level and wipe the seams. The color of the grout should be in harmony with the color of the tile.

The final stage is the removal of grout residues, cleaning the tile and giving it the final aesthetic appearance.

With the help of ceramic tiles, you can realize the most daring creative fantasies. You can lay it evenly, diagonally, offset, patterned. The easiest and fastest way is to lay the tiles in even rows.

If you decide to tile a complex pattern or pattern, it is best to transfer it to the floor or wall so that you can immediately see where which tile should be located. This will allow you to accurately complete the cladding and give your bath a truly original and unique look.

An unusual and very stylish solution for a bath is terracotta tiles. They are ideal for this type of room, as they are resistant to both temperature and moisture. At the same time, they allow you to create an original and interesting design, eco-friendly, practical and stylish. The laying of this material has its own characteristics, primarily due to its significant weight. This tile requires a special adhesive. Mastic will work too.

The installation process consists of the following steps:

Mastic is densely distributed on the stove. This material will require much more adhesive than conventional ceramic tiles;
We apply the plate to the wall, press down and align;
We continue to work in the same order with the rest of the plates;
To align the joints between the tiles, pieces of drywall can be inserted into the seams;
Do not forget to regularly check the parallelism and evenness of the rows with a level;
10 hours after the installation is completed, you can start processing the seams. It is performed with a heat-resistant grout for wide joints. The composition is diluted with water to the density of sour cream.
Then pieces of drywall are removed from the seams;
The grout is applied with a construction gun. The spout must be cut at an angle of 60º so that the width of the hole is 8-10 mm;
The seams are carefully filled with grout. It should not fall on the plates themselves or other surfaces.

Handling a pistol requires experience. So be very careful with it. If the grout still gets on the tile, then do not try to remove it immediately. You will only spread the composition over a larger area. It is better to wait a little while the grout dries. So, you can gently scrape it off.

The direction of applying the grout can be any;
Two hours later, you can move on to the stitching, which will provide a finished look to this finish.
Jointing is done with a 7-8 mm screwdriver or a wire ring;
After that, you need to walk along the seams with a finger in a clean glove.

The wooden floor in the bath does not need additional finishing. A concrete floor involves laying ceramic tiles with a non-slip coating.

Laying starts from one of the corners. In this case, the ideal evenness of the rows is not required, because the floor in the bath is made with a slope towards the drain. But the approximate location of the tiles is still worth noting on the floor by level before you start laying them.

The work is carried out in the following order:

The solution is distributed on the floor with a spatula in accordance with the size of the tile;
The teeth of the spatula imprint a pattern on the mortar, which ensures its reliable connection with the tile;
Tiles are laid out. In the process of work, its position is adjusted with a rubber hammer. Don't forget about slope formation! Tiles for the first row must be dry. And it is desirable to pre-soak all other elements in water.
Corner elements are cut to the required size using a tile cutter;

A log, concrete, frame or brick bath in any case requires hydro, heat and vapor barriers, as well as inner lining. Traditionally selected wooden lining. It has an aesthetic appearance, is safe for health, easy to install and operate. But the modern construction market offers other solutions.

Finishing the steam room

As a rule, with a sufficient budget, the steam room is sheathed with solid wood - aspen, linden, oak or cedar clapboard. To save money, you can use pine materials, but in this case it is necessary to check the boards for the absence of "tar pockets".

What to use besides lining? A cheaper option is sheathing with edged or unedged lime, aspen and birch boards. The tree must be prepared for installation: remove the bark, sand the surface and open it with a water-based varnish or special biocidal agents.

What is inexpensive to sheathe a bath inside? For a brick building, you can use a planed board, it is more affordable, does not require lengthy preparation for installation and provides greater thermal insulation. The thickness of the material is 1.5 times higher than the standard lining.

As a thermal insulation material, foil, parchment, jute, cotton wool, foamed foil polypropylene are used. The place near the stove is tiled.

The ceiling, in addition to lining, can be finished with tempered frosted glass. A backlight is mounted in it. The result is a rather non-standard, but modern steam room.

Heat-resistant tiles are laid on the floor. Clinker perfectly withstands high temperatures, has an anti-slip coating and is completely safe. But, if you want maximum comfort, it is better to choose a wooden flooring, alder, ash, birch or poplar are quite suitable.

If the bath was built from a log, the ceiling and walls inside do not require any sheathing. It is enough to treat the log house with a fire retardant, moisture-repellent and antimicrobial agent.

What material for sheathing should not be chosen is plastic, plywood, OSB, chipboard and any derivatives based on sawdust. Even with moisture-resistant coatings, when heated, the resins and synthetics that form the basis of the binder will begin to evaporate. And this is potentially dangerous for the body. The same applies to pine and spruce boards; they cannot be used in the steam room.

Bathroom upholstery

What material is suitable for cladding a bathroom or washing room - tile or porcelain stoneware. Unlike wood, ceramics will not require constant treatment with moisture-proof and bactericidal agents.

Glass-magnesite plates are no less popular. It is a durable, moisture resistant, non-flammable, non-toxic material that is not susceptible to the development of fungus or mold.

You can also use decorative moisture-resistant plaster, plastic panels, drywall and glass-magnesite for walls and ceilings, followed by the application of waterproof solutions. PVC, rack pebbles and fiberboard are also allowed. However, it is necessary to take care of the complete thermal insulation of the steam room.

On the floor, in addition to tiles, you can lay a moisture-resistant laminate or panels based on composite plastic. But the tile will be more practical and durable. Wooden shields are placed on top of it to avoid slipping. What interior to create in the washing room in the photo below.

Arrangement of the rest room

Here the main thing is not practicality, but comfort, relaxing atmosphere, ergonomic design. The most affordable way is to sheathe the room with pine boards. They do not rot, dry quickly, have a beautiful appearance. According to the durability of the material, it is better to choose boards from Scandinavian pine. A pleasant light pink shade will eventually be covered with an original patina and will give the room even more comfort.

Spruce lining can also be attributed to inexpensive and high-quality finishing materials. Thanks to Swedish and Finnish hot air processing technologies, the boards acquire the necessary strength and moisture resistance. There is less resin in spruce than in pine, it is more fragrant, and small knots (which are inevitable) easily turn into the individuality of the interior.

Of the budget materials for the relaxation room, laminated, polyvinyl chloride MDF panels, quartz vinyl tiles, fiberglass wallpaper, decorative plaster, tiles with a stone, brick or wood pattern are also suitable. In general, everything will depend on the imagination of the owners and the style in which it is supposed to decorate the room.

There are also compositions (two-component paints) that completely imitate wood on any surface (mineral, old wood). A brick or concrete-block bath inside is trimmed with OSB or GKL panels, primed and puttied. Then paint is applied.

Since there is no increased temperature exposure and humidity in the relaxation room, linoleum flooring, tiles, edged boards or chipboard can be used for floors, followed by varnishing.

It is cheaper to stick fiberglass wallpaper on the ceiling or simply cover it with panels for painting.

But, if you still want to make a bathhouse not only a place of rest, but also recovery, the use of wood cannot be avoided. Simply selected varieties of inexpensive wood: birch, alder, poplar, aspen, pine. And for areas with increased workload, you can use oak, cedar and linden.

If the bath will be in operation all-season, it is better to install warm floors in the rest room, and it is good to insulate the walls before sheathing.

How inexpensive to sheathe a bath inside - practical recommendations

We will tell you how to inexpensively sheathe a bath inside, what materials are best suited for sheathing a steam room and a bathroom, how to equip a rest room

Interior decoration of the bath - what is used besides lining?

Bath buildings are built from logs, concrete and cinder blocks, bricks and other building materials. The lining of the interior with clapboard remains unchanged. In this article we will tell you what other finishing and decorative products can be used in the bath.

How to sheathe bath buildings besides lining?

The choice of finish depends on the purpose of the room. Inside the building, in addition to the steam room, there is a rest room, an entrance hall (dressing room), a bathroom or a washing room. If desired, a terrace, a residential attic or several square meters for a small pool are laid in the project.

Lining is a universal material, with proper processing it can sheathe all walls and ceilings, but it will turn out too monotonous. Therefore, a heterogeneous interior decoration of the bath is chosen.

Already from the name it is clear that 100% humidity and high temperature are periodically maintained in this room. We need a finishing material that can withstand such changes, plus, besides, it does not emit substances harmful to humans during heating: formaldehyde, ammonia, phenol and others.

According to the specified parameters, only solid wood is suitable, so the owners always try to sheathe the bath inside with clapboard made of linden, aspen, cedar, abasha (African oak). Often planed larch or pine products are used, but slow-growing varieties should be chosen, since so-called resin pockets do not form in them. Accordingly, the resin will not constantly stand out on the surface.
The bath, in addition to lining, can be finished with more budget options - edged or unedged boards from various types of wood - linden, cedar, alder, aspen. Only untreated wood will need to be pre-prepared for installation - remove the bark and sapwood, sand and cover with wood-protective water-based varnishes or impregnations with a biocidal effect.
Wall cladding inside a brick bath with a planed board gives a much better heat-intensive effect, since the thickness of the molded products exceeds the section of the lining by 1.5-3 times.
Do not try to sheathe the steam room and other rooms with sawdust sheets: plywood, chipboard, OSB and other analogues, even moisture resistant ones. In the process of heating, thermosetting resins, on which sawdust is mixed, begin to emit toxic fumes. The result is a poisoning of the body instead of recovery.
On the ceiling, in addition to lining or edged boards, designers offer a non-standard option - tempered frosted glass, under which lighting is mounted. The bath will turn out to be very unusual, but modern.
The floor can be sheathed with clinker or heat-resistant ceramic floor tiles with a special anti-slip coating. It is hygienic and will withstand high temperatures perfectly.
And the last thing: if the bath is made of rounded or profiled logs, then the finishing technology inside the building does not require sheathing the ceiling and walls with anything. It is enough to treat all surfaces with water-based or oil-wax based flame retardants with a moisture-resistant effect.

Bath without washing is unthinkable. Invariably the best material for the bathroom and toilet are ceramics: tiles, mosaics, porcelain stoneware. It is convenient and inexpensive, since the clapboard must not only be sheathed, but also take care of its safety. That is, constantly treat the lining with protective agents with a moisture-resistant and biocidal effect. Tiles don't need it.
The walls and ceiling are finished with decorative waterproof plaster, plastic panels or drywall or glass-magnesite for painting with waterproof compounds, but only if the steam room is thermally insulated according to all the rules.
But for the floor in the bathroom, the choice of products is more extensive. Traditionally, floor tiles or porcelain stoneware are used, but you can sheathe a small room with a modern waterproof composite plastic laminate (Duma Floor, Aqua-Step) or special moisture-resistant floor panels offered by the most famous manufacturers of laminate flooring - Egger, Quick Step, Alloc and others.

By definition, it is intended for changing clothes and precedes the entrance to the steam room. To set the mood in the appropriate way, they also try to sheathe this kind of vestibule with clapboard, but here you should not be limited to finishing options.
A multifunctional bath is an excellent field for the application of fantasy in the field of design. You can sheathe the walls with decorative clinker or ceramic tiles imitating stone or brick, wallpaper, including fiberglass, paint in any color, apply decorative plaster, sheathe with plastic or veneered planks.
The floor in the intermediate room requires a more or less moisture-resistant material - PVC linoleum or natural marmoleum, vinyl or ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware, edged boards, and even plywood or chipboard for varnish.
The ceiling inside the dressing room, in addition to lining, can be paneled or simply painted. Ceiling wallpaper on a non-woven or fiberglass basis will look good.

4. Room for rest.

The bath is good because, in addition to everything else, it almost always has a room for relaxation. To create a special mood, use laminate and MDF or PVC panels with wood decor, vinyl or quartz-vinyl tiles, wallpaper with the appropriate pattern.
Some paint manufacturers offer special mixtures that allow you to imitate wood on any mineral or old wood surfaces. For example, in the Dulux series there is a two-component paint Trade BrushWood. A bathhouse made of bricks or concrete blocks is first lined with LSU, GKL, OSB sheets, then a composition is applied over the puttied and primed plane, which, after drying, creates a wood texture that is visually almost indistinguishable from natural.

Lining - for and against

Summing up the foregoing, it is worth noting that a bath cannot do without lining. This is the best finishing material, as it has a unique set of positive properties:

Low thermal conductivity and high heat capacity.
Resistant to changes in temperature and humidity.
Breakage resistance.
Optimum noise reduction ratio.
Pleasant, healing scent.
Ease of installation.

Of the minuses, it is worth noting the susceptibility of the lining to rotting and woodworms, but the problem is solvable - it is enough to treat the surface with special protective compounds for baths and saunas in order to forget about problems with wood for 3-5 years.

How to sheathe a bath inside, except for lining in the steam room, bathroom, dressing room and rest room

What are the advantages and disadvantages of lining? Overview of finishing materials for different rooms.

What is better to sheathe inside the bath?

What should be considered when choosing a lining for a bath?
Wooden cladding for a bath
What else can sheathe the bath from the inside?

How to sheathe a bath inside and how much is it necessary? The question that worries the owners of these premises can have several answers. So, if the bath building is built of natural logs, the walls inside can not be sheathed, except for the elegance of using lining.

After the construction of the bath is completed, you should think about arranging it from the inside. For sheathing, a variety of materials are used, which are selected depending on the material of the bath itself.

The walls of brick or stone, gas or foam concrete buildings must be sheathed. Firstly, this is the only way to achieve maximum insulation of the room. Secondly, bare walls look unaesthetic.

You can sheathe the walls of a bath or sauna with different materials:

clapboard made of wood of different species or block house;
wooden boards;
glass-magnesium sheets.

You can make a choice that matches your tastes and financial capabilities by familiarizing yourself with the requirements for lining the bath from the inside and the characteristics of different materials.

What should be considered when choosing a lining for a bath?

In steam rooms, in no case should fiberboard and chipboard be used, since they emit toxic substances when heated.

Before proceeding with the choice of sheathing, you need to consider that wood is the most suitable material for a bath. However, in the steam room, dressing room, rest room, you can and should use its different breeds.

For rooms with the least low humidity and stable temperature (dressing rooms, rest rooms), pine can be used. This inexpensive wood does not crack, is characterized by low thermal conductivity and a beautiful pattern. Phytoncides, which pine wood has been emitting for many years, are very beneficial to health. Pine wood impregnated with resin is not afraid of fungi, dampness, mold. However, it is completely unsuitable for steam rooms or sauna interiors: when heated, pine begins to release resin. Using the steam room becomes inconvenient. And the heavy aroma of pine needles may not facilitate, but make it difficult to breathe.

For cladding rooms with very high humidity and temperature, alder, linden, abachi, aspen, poplar or larch are suitable. First, even at temperatures above 100°C, these rocks do not heat up very much. Secondly, such wood dries quickly, is not afraid of mold, fungus. It does not emit resinous substances.

Important: in the bath (especially in steam rooms) do not use materials obtained by chemical means. Fiberboard and chipboard, linoleum, laminate and similar materials release very toxic substances when heated: poisoning can occur. And they are also very flammable. The only exception is magnelite, because it is produced without the use of chemical resins and is environmentally friendly.

Wooden cladding for a bath

It is clear that the best cladding for a bath is wood or materials made from it. But what is the best way to sheathe a bath? Ordinary boards? Block house? Wooden lining? Consider the features of all these materials.

Lining for finishing the bath from the inside is an excellent option. It is inexpensive and fairly easy to install.

Regular boards. Plank upholstery is attached to the crate, always at a right angle. But ordinary boards are rarely used. Untreated with antifungal compounds, they can quickly rot. A ready-to-use board is relatively expensive, but it looks worse than, for example, lining or block house. Planing the boards yourself and treating them with special impregnations is long and costly. Aligning walls with them is not easy. In addition, the boards may contain a certain number of knots, which negatively affects both the operation of the sheathing and its appearance. That is why clapboard or block house is often preferred to ordinary boards.
The advantages of lining are undeniable. It is she who is most often chosen for interior wall cladding in different bath rooms. Here are its main advantages:
- since lining and eurolining are made from different types of trees, you can always choose exactly the type of wood that you like the most;
- even amateurs do not have a question about how to sheathe a bath from the inside with a clapboard: convenient “thorn-groove” locks allow both a novice master and an experienced professional to cope with facing work;
- lining from lining looks very aesthetically pleasing, attracting visitors with a unique wood pattern, panels allow you to visually align any wall;
- the technology of laying planks requires that tiny gaps remain between them, they improve air circulation in the bath, help the walls "breathe", and prevent condensation.
A great alternative to lining is a block house. Outwardly similar to a natural log, this material is many times superior in strength and ease of use, does not dry out, does not crack, does not warp. How to sheathe a bath with a block house? Just like a normal wagon. First you have to build a crate (frame), and then with the help of nails, staples or kleimers, fix the block house. Be sure to be at a right angle to the crate.

When choosing a lining or block house for a steam room and other "hot" rooms, you can not choose conifers (except for larch).

What else can sheathe the bath from the inside?

Magnelite tolerates high temperatures, high humidity and is easy to install.

Sometimes the inside of the bath is sheathed with magnelite. This is acceptable, but far from the best option for interior cladding. It is made from magnesium, fine shavings, binder and fiberglass mesh. It is believed that even at high temperatures, magnelite does not emit harmful substances into the air. It has other features that make its operation convenient and safe:

calmly tolerates temperature changes, does not burn;
easily tolerates any humidity, while it is not saturated with moisture, does not change shape, does not rot or mold;
easy to assemble, does not require complex or special tools.

Magnelite is an excellent material for covering any bath rooms. However, it is preferable to sheathe a steam room with wood, although each owner independently decides how to sheathe a steam room or sauna inside.

How to sheathe a bath inside: the choice of materials

How to sheathe a bath inside, in order not only to create a beautiful aesthetic appearance of the room, but also to benefit health? What to choose: lining, solid wood or use glass-magnesium sheets?

We sheathe the bath with a wooden clapboard from the inside

In construction, it is very important that the material is as natural as possible. The most environmentally friendly of all is wood.. Wood products have a beautiful appearance and have thermal insulation properties. In addition to supporting and enclosing structures, wood is also used as a finishing material. Very often, the lining of the bath inside the clapboard is performed. Due to its qualities, wood paneling has found wide application in construction.

Types of lining and classification

Lining is divided by type of wood:

Pine. The most common wood for lining. It has a beautiful appearance and low cost. Over time, the pine product begins to darken.
Spruce. Northern spruce is used to make lining. It is more durable and has a beautiful appearance. Like pine, it darkens with time.
Canadian cedar used for bath decoration. It is not cheap, but it has excellent technical characteristics and a beautiful appearance.

Oak. Beautiful and durable material, easy to process, expensive.
Aspen. Beautiful light color. Has thermal insulation properties. Good for a bath.
Linden. It is very well suited for finishing a bath, because the material does not heat up much and gives off a pleasant aroma.
Alder. In a room with a high temperature, the material does not heat up. Also, it almost does not dry out and does not warp.
Abash. African oak has high strength and softness of the material. Such wood does not dry out, does not warp and does not heat up. Has a beautiful appearance. Abash cost is quite high.

Most often, the inner lining of the bath clapboard is made of hardwood. In the bath, high temperature and under its influence coniferous wood releases resins. Hardwoods have practically no resin compounds, so resin is not emitted.

Of great importance is the type of wood from which the lining is made. There are 4 main varieties:

"Extra"- a product made of wood of the highest grade without a core and a flaw.

"BUT"- one live knot, two resin pockets and two non-through cracks per one and a half meters long product is allowed.
"AT"- the presence of four knots (up to 2 cm) is not prohibited, two of them must be captive. Two resin pockets are also possible, the product is one and a half meters long.
"FROM"- lining referred to this class allows two captive knots with a diameter of 2.5 cm, non-through cracks no more than 5% long, two resin pockets up to 5 cm long and up to 5 mm wide, mechanical damage up to 6% in diameter, contrast spot up to 15 cm in diameter , as well as other spots and stripes with a total complexity of up to 5% of the entire surface of the product.

Pros and cons of lining

Natural and environmentally friendly material that does not emit harmful substances.
Beautiful appearance. Depending on the type of wood, the lining has different shades and textures.
Resistance to mechanical damage.
A comfortable microclimate is created in the room.
Ease of installation.

High material cost.
The need for constant care for wood.

Methods for attaching the lining to the wall

Listed below are the 5 main ways of attaching the lining to the wall.

A clamp is inserted into the lining, which is attached to the guide rail with a nail, screw or self-tapping screw. A rail is inserted into the groove and each subsequent rail is fastened in the same way. They must be fastened tightly enough so that there are no gaps. If the last row of lining does not fit entirely, and a large gap remains, then the top row must be cut to size and fixed along the guides.

First, the panel is marked in places where nails will be driven in. Then, at an angle of 45 degrees, the nails are baited into the edge with the groove. The panel is applied to the wall and then nails can be driven in. After installation, the caps are recessed so that the next lining panel can easily fit into the groove. After that, the next panel is mounted in a similar way.

This installation method cannot be used for thin lining, because it will break off.

Over time, under the influence of high temperature, the tree may dry out a little, and the locations of the plugs will appear. To prevent this trouble, special compounds must be applied over the plugs.

The technology of performing work on the lining of the bath

Preparatory work. All internal communications must be laid. Finishing material should already be purchased, unpacked and laid out in a drying room. Also, you need to have all the necessary tools, for high-quality and quick work you will need:

perforator;
screwdriver;
jigsaw;
construction stapler;
level;
plumb;
paint cord;
square;
a hammer;
suspensions;
fasteners (nails, screws, self-tapping screws, staples, clamps).

Bath cladding requires significant funds for the purchase of material and its device. There is an opportunity to reduce the cost of material. There is no high temperature and high humidity in the dressing room. Therefore, it does not require special finishing conditions. In the dressing room, you can make coniferous wood paneling. The floor does not have to be made of wood, but it can be made of ceramic tiles.

In the steam room itself, it is best to cover the walls of the ceiling and floor with clapboard hardwood. In addition, all lava beds and other supporting structures must also be made of such material. This is due to the fact that hardwoods do not emit resins and do not heat up under the influence of high temperature, which ensures a comfortable stay in the bath.

Sheathing a bath inside a clapboard: types of pros and cons technology

The ideal covering for lining the bath inside is lining. It looks great in the interior of this room and is easy to install.

Briefly about the purpose of the skin
Lining for a bath
Block house for a bath
Magelan

The history of such a simple but necessary invention as a bath goes back to far, far years, but even today, this building practically does not lose its relevance. A shower and a bath cannot completely replace a bath, because in it you can not only get rid of dirt, but also improve your health. Typically, a bathhouse consists of a dressing room, a sink and a steam room, but the last two items are often combined.

When building each of these rooms, it is necessary to decide how best to sheathe the bath from the inside, because the air temperature in the room, as well as the amount of fuel needed to heat it, will depend on this. In this article we will talk about all the most popular and reliable options for lining the bath from the inside.

Do not rush to think about how it is better to sheathe a bath inside, because sheathing may not be needed at all. The task of the inner cladding of the bath is to keep the internal heat for a long period of time, which will significantly reduce fuel consumption and heating time. Thus, we can conclude that the cladding is an integral part of the bath, but this is not entirely true, because the bath, built from solid timber according to old technologies, does not need additional insulation (for more details: “Sheathing with a pair of lining - how to do it right”).

Having built a bath from cheaper materials, you will have to think about choosing a sheathing material.

First of all, it is necessary to mention the main characteristics that the selected material should have:

It must withstand high temperatures and be non-flammable;
Steam and moisture resistance are also necessary indicators;
It is advisable to choose natural materials without harmful chemical treatment, so as not to harm your health with harmful fumes.

Speaking specifically about how you can sheathe the bath inside, it is worth mentioning the lining, block house and magnolite. Of the three options presented, it can also be difficult to choose one, so below we will talk in detail about each of them.

Lining for a bath

Lining is the most popular material for bath sheathing, because it combines all the most necessary qualities: reliability, beauty and reasonable price.

Also lining has a number of useful properties:

Lining allows you to save a large amount of fuel, reducing heat consumption;
Behind it you can hide various communications, increasing the level of comfort indoors;
The lining is resistant to moisture and steam, in addition, it is able to regulate the level of moisture in the steam room and allows the walls of the bath to “breathe”.
Longevity and resistance to the formation of fungus and mold are also important properties that this material possesses.

Next, it is worth talking about the right choice of material. First of all, pay attention to the fact that the price for lining up to 1.5 m is slightly lower than for material from 2 m, so it is worth choosing a short length. When installing a short lining, use a rail in the middle to avoid various difficulties (for more details: “Which lining is better for a bath - an overview of materials for a bath, dressing room and shower room”).

It is also worth paying attention to the wood from which the lining is made:

The best option for a steam room is linden, because when heated, it releases essential oils, which have a disinfectant and anti-inflammatory effect. Also, the advantage of this wood is its low thermal conductivity, which allows you to protect the skin and respiratory tract from burns, while increasing sweating.
Aspen is a worthy alternative to linden. The price of aspen lining is quite small, and the material itself is resistant to moisture and decay processes. Warming up, aspen promotes healing person.
It is recommended to use larch in the shower, because it has high strength and resistance to water. Larch lining has a positive effect on well-being and improves immunity.
The steam room can also be finished with white acacia clapboard. Acacia is a very durable tree, so products made from it last a very long time. The only disadvantage of this wood is the high price.

You can see an example of such a skin in the photo.

Block house for a bath

If you can’t decide how to sheathe the steam room inside, except for the lining, then remember the block house, because it has similar qualities, but a different appearance. The block house has a semi-oval shape, so the walls made of this material look like a log house, which gives your bath a “historical naturalness”. The strength and resistance to various influences of the block house are quite high, but it is recommended to carry out bactericidal treatment once a year.

Block house is classified by quality:

Grade "C" material is subjected to only surface treatment, various defects may be present on its surface, for example, cracks or chips. Such material is not recommended for installation in a bath;
Block house class "B" has an average quality and is extremely rarely used for finishing a bath. Small cracks and knots no more than 3 cm may be present on its surface;
On the surface of class "A" material you will not find any flaws, except for small knots. This option is great for a bath.
« Extra" class has perfect processing, and its surface is devoid of any flaws. Ideal for finishing baths, but also has a fairly high price.

The block house is made from various woods, but only hardwood and coniferous materials are suitable for a bath. Remember that using spruce and pine is highly discouraged, because you can burn your skin on their heated surface.

Magelan

This is modern, however, not the best material for bath sheathing on the construction market.

If you are thinking about how to sheathe the dressing room inside except for the lining, then you can undoubtedly resort to this option, in addition, it is perfect for other rooms due to its qualities:

It is completely unaffected by moisture and decay processes;
High temperature, as well as its differences, do not harm this material;
Magnelite sheets are quite easy to mount.

This sheathing is made from the following materials: fine wood shavings, magnesium and other non-natural components, which are reinforced with a glass mesh. By making the bath sheathing from such material, you reduce the environmental component of the room.

Conclusion

Now you are familiar with all the options for the interior lining of the bath and you can independently decide how to sheathe the sauna inside, starting from your own desires and financial situation.

How to sheathe bath buildings besides lining?

The choice of finish depends on the purpose of the room.

Inside the building, in addition to the steam room, there is a rest room, an entrance hall (dressing room), a bathroom or a washing room. If desired, a terrace, a residential attic or several square meters for a small pool are laid in the project.

Lining is a universal material, with proper processing it can sheathe all walls and ceilings, but it will turn out too monotonous.

Therefore, a heterogeneous interior decoration of the bath is chosen.

1. Steam room.

Already from the name it is clear that 100% humidity and high temperature are periodically maintained in this room.

We need a finishing material that can withstand such changes, plus, besides, it does not emit substances harmful to humans during heating: formaldehyde, ammonia, phenol and others.

According to the specified parameters, only solid wood is suitable, so the owners always try to sheathe the bath inside with clapboard made of linden, aspen, cedar, abasha (African oak).
Often planed larch or pine products are used, but slow-growing varieties should be chosen, since so-called resin pockets do not form in them. Accordingly, the resin will not constantly stand out on the surface.
The bath, in addition to lining, can be finished with more budget options - edged or unedged boards from various types of wood - linden, cedar, alder, aspen.
Only untreated wood will need to be pre-prepared for installation - remove the bark and sapwood, sand and cover with wood-protective water-based varnishes or impregnations with a biocidal effect.
Wall cladding inside a brick bath with a planed board gives a much better heat-intensive effect, since the thickness of the molded products exceeds the section of the lining by 1.5-3 times.
Do not try to sheathe the steam room and other rooms with sawdust sheets: plywood, chipboard, OSB and other analogues, even moisture resistant ones.
In the process of heating, thermosetting resins, on which sawdust is mixed, begin to emit toxic fumes. The result is a poisoning of the body instead of recovery.
On the ceiling, in addition to lining or edged boards, designers offer a non-standard option - tempered frosted glass, under which lighting is mounted.
The bath will turn out to be very unusual, but modern.
The floor can be sheathed with clinker or heat-resistant ceramic floor tiles with a special anti-slip coating. It is hygienic and will withstand high temperatures perfectly.
And the last thing: if the bath is made of rounded or profiled logs, then the finishing technology inside the building does not require sheathing the ceiling and walls with anything.
It is enough to treat all surfaces with water-based or oil-wax based flame retardants with a moisture-resistant effect.

2. Bathroom.

Bath without washing is unthinkable. Invariably the best material for the bathroom and toilet are ceramics: tiles, mosaics, porcelain stoneware.
It is convenient and inexpensive, since the clapboard must not only be sheathed, but also take care of its safety. That is, constantly treat the lining with protective agents with a moisture-resistant and biocidal effect. Tiles don't need it.
The walls and ceiling are finished with decorative waterproof plaster, plastic panels or drywall or glass-magnesite for painting with waterproof compounds, but only if the steam room is thermally insulated according to all the rules.
But for the floor in the bathroom, the choice of products is more extensive.
How to sheathe a bath inside: beautiful and inexpensive

Traditionally, floor tiles or porcelain stoneware are used, but you can sheathe a small room with a modern waterproof composite plastic laminate (Duma Floor, Aqua-Step) or special moisture-resistant floor panels offered by the most famous manufacturers of laminate flooring - Egger, Quick Step, Alloc and others.

Dressing room.

By definition, it is intended for changing clothes and precedes the entrance to the steam room. To set the mood in the appropriate way, they also try to sheathe this kind of vestibule with clapboard, but here you should not be limited to finishing options.
A multifunctional bath is an excellent field for the application of fantasy in the field of design.
You can sheathe the walls with decorative clinker or ceramic tiles imitating stone or brick, wallpaper, including fiberglass, paint in any color, apply decorative plaster, sheathe with plastic or veneered planks.
The floor in the intermediate room requires a more or less moisture-resistant material - PVC linoleum or natural marmoleum, vinyl or ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware, edged boards, and even plywood or chipboard for varnish.
The ceiling inside the dressing room, in addition to lining, can be paneled or simply painted.
Ceiling wallpaper on a non-woven or fiberglass basis will look good.

Recreation room.

The bath is good because, in addition to everything else, it almost always has a room for relaxation. To create a special mood, use laminate and MDF or PVC panels with wood decor, vinyl or quartz-vinyl tiles, wallpaper with the appropriate pattern.
Some paint manufacturers offer special mixtures that allow you to imitate wood on any mineral or old wood surfaces.
For example, in the Dulux series there is a two-component paint Trade BrushWood. A bathhouse made of bricks or concrete blocks is first lined with LSU, GKL, OSB sheets, then a composition is applied over the puttied and primed plane, which, after drying, creates a wood texture that is visually almost indistinguishable from natural.

Lining - for and against

Summing up the foregoing, it is worth noting that a bath cannot do without lining.

This is the best finishing material, as it has a unique set of positive properties:

Low thermal conductivity and high heat capacity.
Resistant to changes in temperature and humidity.
Breakage resistance.
Optimum noise reduction ratio.
Pleasant, healing scent.
Ease of installation.

See below a useful video about what materials you can sheathe a bath.

Characteristics of a log cabin
Features of modern baths
How to choose the right lining for sheathing
Basics of lining installation
Washing room: the choice of material for finishing
The nuances of finishing a fresh log house with the effect of precipitation

Since ancient times, baths were built exclusively from wood, and such log cabins were extremely effective. The article will focus on the advantages of finishing a bath with a clapboard in comparison with using a bare log cabin.

Characteristics of a log cabin

Initially, the features of the Russian log bath were the high humidity in the steam room and the environmental friendliness of the materials used in construction.

Logs are relevant as a building material to this day, since the most important thing for a bath is massive, heat-intensive and hygroscopic walls.

At the beginning of the procedures, the walls absorb the released moisture, and then give it evenly. Bath attendants with experience even heard how the logs "hiss" from condensed moisture absorbed into the pores of the wood.

The presentability and aesthetics of the Russian bath is determined by the massiveness of the frame. The last conclusion can be drawn on the basis of photos and old paintings, where the bathhouse always looks like a large building made of huge logs.

The main disadvantage of a log cabin is that the bath is heated for a very long time.

In the standard log cabins of Ancient Russia, it took about four hours to prepare. Logs in such operating conditions do not last long, although they are the cheapest building material.

Features of modern baths

However, it was only about Russian baths that have survived to this day, but not about modern buildings. To date, builders in the construction of baths solve the problem of reducing the consumption of thermal energy, as well as reducing the kindling time to 30-60 minutes.

For these purposes, the mass of the finishing layer of wood in the bath rooms is reduced. Usually, the bath is sheathed with a clapboard about 1 centimeter thick, and heat-insulating material with a foil layer is attached under it.

The advantage of this design is fast heating and minimal fuel consumption, but at the same time the rooms cool down faster, you need to add fuel regularly, and therefore the differences with a real Russian bath are significant.

The walls of such a bath do not accumulate steam, and therefore expensive furnaces or steam generators should be used to create it.

In the process of bath procedures, steam must be supplied regularly, which requires the constant presence of a bath attendant or one of the visitors next to the unit.

How to choose the right lining for sheathing

Before starting work, it is worth deciding which clapboard to sheathe the steam room of the bath is best.

Quality lining must necessarily meet the following criteria:

breathable structure (wood), which has an antiseptic effect (fungus and mold do not form) and provides a kind of moisture ventilation;
ecological purity of the material with complete safety for the human body.

In the early stages of production, lining boards were made with tongue and groove and quarter fasteners.

To date, these options have been abandoned, since the fasteners quickly wore out and failed during operation.

Tongue/groove is the most popular fastening method for products today.

Beginning builders will find the following recommendation useful. It is quite easy to save on material if you buy planks 1.5 meters long, and not longer ones (2 meters). Sheathing a room is not much more difficult. The amount of material should be calculated for the area to be covered, minus window and door openings.

Basics of lining installation

If we are talking about how to sheathe a bath inside with a clapboard, then the vertical arrangement of the planks will lead to their uneven heating during the heating process.

Horizontal placement of the material will reduce the degree of shrinkage and broadening during operation. Also, the horizontal fastening of the planks is necessary for the visual lengthening of a room with a small area.

Other advantages of horizontal lining installation:

near darkened floors, the replacement of the facing material is simplified;
moisture does not penetrate into the joints between the planks, and therefore the material dries faster after completion of pair procedures;
air ventilation behind such a facing layer is much better, but for maximum efficiency it is necessary to create a high-quality crate on which the lining will be fixed;
also, the frame under the lining will be an excellent barrier for rodents who want to gnaw on thermal insulation material;
finally, installation work is greatly simplified if the strips are placed exactly in a horizontal position.

Washing room: the choice of material for finishing

After sheathing the bath with a clapboard inside the steam room with your own hands, you should take care of finishing the room where the washing is done after the end of the procedures.

These two rooms differ in temperature, but the humidity in them is equally high.

In this regard, it will not work to completely sheathe the bath with clapboard, or a number of conditions must be met:

you can use only moisture-resistant material based on larch wood;
it is necessary to install a powerful hood on the ceiling in the bath from the lining, which will effectively cope with moisture;
if the material is less protected, then you need to take care of its full processing with various compounds that increase resistance to moisture.

If these conditions are met, then the wood will not deform in conditions of high humidity, and it will not form an unpleasant type of stain, mold, fungus, etc. on it.

The most popular remedy is antifungal water impregnation, which will also protect the wood from various insects.

You can avoid the costs of implementing all of the above conditions if you use polyvinyl chloride plastic lining as an alternative to natural wood material.

Such material is easy to install and operate, and the service life is no less than that of natural.

However, it is worth noting that PVC lining is not suitable for a steam room, since plastic will not be able to counteract high temperatures.

As for the washing room, the material is safe there from excessive temperature loads, and visitors are safe from harmful substances released when the plastic is heated.

The cost of PVC lining is lower than natural material. When the owner finishes the bath with a clapboard with his own hands, additional costs will be required only for the installation of a high-quality vapor barrier layer.

Also, do not forget about the ventilation gap between the cladding and the wall.

Thus, a certain sequence of layers will be observed:

crate of the desired thickness;
vapor barrier film;
support rails;
PVC lining.

The nuances of finishing a fresh log house with the effect of precipitation

Perhaps one of the biggest problems for the owner of the bath is that before sheathing the bath with clapboard with your own hands, you need to wait a fairly long period.

The reason for this is the effect of the settlement of a fresh building. For example, a draft to a height of 5 centimeters will lead to the destruction of a large number of lining planks.

It is possible to solve the problem, but the technology described below should be used only as a last resort, when finishing must be done without fail. However, any specialist, speaking about how to properly sheathe a clapboard bath from the inside, will advise you to wait for the right period.

So, in a newly built bath, finishing can be done using movable guides that will move after the log house.

The better to sheathe your bath inside

On such a device, the bottom of the crate is fixed, as usual, rigidly, but the rest of the functional elements move along the guides.

There are several technologies for mounting such fasteners, but, considering how to properly sheathe a clapboard bath, experts agree that the following option is the most effective and simplest.

A slot is made to the width of the beam, which subsequently will hold the crate.

The wall will settle along the horizon and will not affect the cladding in any way. Large self-tapping screws should be used as fasteners, and galvanized nails are best.

All elements of the resulting structure should be placed so that there is a gap to the ceiling from the highest point, on which the building is supposed to settle.

As for the ceiling sheathing, it should be mounted precisely on the rough base, and not on the frame near the walls.

It is possible to avoid the formation of gaps between the wall and ceiling sheathing if the ceiling is sheathed clearly at the level of the upper point of the wall sheathing. Skirting boards should be nailed to the ceiling, not to the wall.

This cladding technology is universal and even allows you to use tiles as wall coverings, but for this it should be attached to moisture-resistant cardboard mounted on guides, which were described above.

The worst thing is when the bath is a building made of aerated concrete blocks, the heat capacity of which leaves much to be desired, and to be more precise, the material simply freezes through during the cold season. Only a reliable insulated frame inside the premises can protect the bath from external influences of cold air masses.

There must be a gap between such a structure and the walls of the building. It is best to use linden croaker as a finishing material. This material has unique thermal insulation properties and will allow you to concentrate all the thermal energy inside the premises.

Outcome

The article discusses in detail how to properly sheathe a clapboard bath and what materials to use.

From the foregoing, we can conclude that sheathing is not a complicated process and not the most expensive. Properly guided by the information provided, you can perform all the work yourself. If you wish, you can entrust them to specialists who will take responsibility for all stages - from the purchase of the necessary materials to their installation and putting the bath into operation.

The advantages of using lining in the bath
Types of wood for finishing
Lining mounting options
Installing lining in the bath

The quality of the healing procedures of the bath largely depends on the level of thermal insulation of the steam room. By warming the steam room, they achieve a reduction in heat loss, the safety of the wooden structures of the bath.

An important element of the thermal insulation system is lining with a pair of clapboards. To finish the steam room from the inside, it is necessary to use only natural materials. The use of lining allows not only to effectively prevent heat loss, but also much cheaper than lining with natural wood.

The advantages of using lining in the bath

Sheathing with clapboard in the steam room involves the use of wood, and the small thickness of the panels reduces the cost of building a steam room.

The advantages of using lining are:

Adjustment of humidity in the bath, preventing the possibility of condensation and fungal infection;
Ease of processing, obtaining a perfectly flat surface;
Good heat and sound insulation;
Eco-friendly material and beautiful appearance;
Long service life with preservation of original characteristics.

The most optimal solution would be to use not just lining, but eurolining.

Its difference is an increase in the tongue-and-groove connection to 8 mm, and a material that has undergone preliminary forced drying. Having compensation slots on the reverse side of the lamella, the eurolining does not crack. In addition, it participates in the process of ventilation of the coating. See also: "How to sheathe a steam room in a bath - how to choose the right wood."

Types of wood for finishing

The best tree species for a bath are:

Linden, which retains heat well, releasing twice as much essential oils as other trees. Possessing hypoallergenic properties, it is ideal for the human body;
Aspen ordinary - in its medicinal properties does not differ from linden;
Cedar has a pleasant smell when heated, durable, has healing properties;
Pine- durable, easily tolerates dampness and is much cheaper than other tree species.
The disadvantage is that the resin is released when heated and the color changes over time.

Much less often, oak or ash lining is used.

Despite the very high quality indicators, their price is so high that it is not available to most consumers. It is possible to reduce the price of lining a steam room in a bath by using lining made of different types of wood, based on the location.

For example, in places of contact between the body and wood, use lining made of solid hardwood (larch, aspen, linden, ash, oak).

In other places, coniferous wood is quite suitable.

Lining mounting options

Getting to the finishing work of the steam room, the main question will be how to position the lining in the bath - vertically or horizontally. To choose the location of the skin elements in a horizontal or vertical plane, it is necessary to take into account not only aesthetics, but also the laws of physics, in which cold air accumulates below, and hot air rises up to the ceiling.

The vertical arrangement visually increases the height of the room, making it visually more spacious. However, at the same time, temperature differences are observed within the same board due to the difference in temperatures from above and below.

As a result, deformation changes may occur in the form of warpage, propeller and other surface defects of the board. In addition, the process of decay may begin in the lower part of the profiled board.

Important advantages of the horizontal arrangement of the lining when lining the steam room are:

Uniform heating of the board along its entire length;
The same moisture content of the elements over the entire area, which prevents the development of the process of decay;
Simplify the repair process if you need to replace the board.

Essential is the fact that water that has fallen on the wall does not leak into the gaps of the elements during horizontal installation, which is possible with vertical sheathing.

The disadvantage of the horizontal laying method is the deterioration of natural ventilation, which requires the equipment of the room with a forced ventilation system.

The specific choice in favor of the location of the lining in the steam room vertically or horizontally depends on the preferences of the consumer and has its own characteristics in the work.

Installing lining in the bath

Before sheathing the steam room, the lining is fixed. To do this, the beam is attached to the wall with galvanized screws. Then, having determined a straight vertical line with a building level, a crate beam is installed on it. The first rail is installed from the corner, and the subsequent rails - in steps of 50-60 cm, moving to the next corner. A layer of waterproofing is laid under the slats and, if desired, the slats are treated with a protective non-combustible agent.

The next will be a layer of non-combustible insulation (mineral or basalt wool), which has excellent water and steam impermeable properties. The main thing at the same time is to ensure a snug fit of the insulation. If necessary, carry out additional sealing with mounting foam or self-adhesive tape.

A vapor barrier layer of foil or ordinary film is laid on mineral wool, which is fixed with staples from an industrial stapler.

At the final stage, the lining is laid in a vertical or horizontal way.

It is very important to insert the planks as evenly as possible, since at the slightest violation, depressions or bulges will appear on the wall from the lining. If pine lining is used, then pre-treatment is necessary to remove resin and grease stains. For this purpose, wooden slats are lubricated with a 25% acetone solution.

Installing the crate, and laying the insulation, while marking the place where there will be ventilation holes. The most effective ventilation will be when placed next to the stove one hole under the ceiling, and the second - at a height of 15-30 cm from the floor.

For the air duct, a 100 mm aluminum corrugation is used.

The decoration of the steam room begins from the ceiling, and the first board is attached at the entrance (for more details: “How to make the decoration of the bath with clapboard correctly - the recommendations of the master”). For installation, clamps are used and only for the last board a finishing nail is used. They fasten the lining exclusively by a hidden method.

This choice is dictated by the following circumstances:

By heating, through a twisted hardware, which can burn the skin;
The possibility of rust on the hardware when exposed to wet steam;
Not aesthetic appearance when the mount is open.

Fasten the wooden lining with the help of clamps or self-tapping screws.

Kleimer, as the mounting bracket is called, is made of galvanized iron and screwed to the crate with self-tapping screws. The advantage of kleimers is the absence of damage to the lining sheets during installation.

How can I sheathe a bath inside except lining

The height of the kleimers depends on the type of materials and for euro lining it is 4 mm, and for wooden lining the height is up to 5 mm.

How to lay the lining in the bath depends on the installation method. With a vertical arrangement, laying begins from the corner with the fastening of the end board in a special bracket - the kleimer.

Work begins from the left corner, placing a board less than 5-10 mm long less than it should be, with a ridge to the corner.

Then the boards are nailed to the laths of the crate in the middle.

The next board covers the already nailed board with a comb, and is also attached to the lath of the crate. When using finishing nails, they are nailed strictly at an angle. All subsequent boards are attached in the same way. At the same time, the correct location of the boards is constantly checked by the level. Before nailing the last board, measure the width and cut it if necessary.

When mounting horizontally, boards can be nailed starting from the top or bottom. Laying horizontally begins from the ceiling by fastening the first rail to the crate downwards with a groove.

Then the boards are located as close as possible to each other according to the type of constructor with the tongue of the top board entering the groove of the bottom panel.

Bottom-to-top installation is easier, but having to cut the top board to the width gives the wall an untidy look.

And when moving from top to bottom, the resulting gap after cutting to the desired width of the last board can be masked with a beautiful plinth.

After completion of all work with the help of special corners, cords, the final decoration of the surface is carried out. The slopes of the doorways are finished with clapboard cut to the desired size, and framed with platbands. For additional protection against moisture, the mounted lining is finished with a special composition based on wax or water base.

It's creative and interesting. As a rule, up to half of the construction budget can go to the interior arrangement of premises, which is not surprising. A wonderful recreation area should be comfortable, cozy, functional and beautiful. But here you can save money by doing all the work yourself and choosing budget options for finishing.

Work order

Baths are built different, one or two floors, with billiard and upper lounges, as additional equipment they install a solarium, a swimming pool, an infrared sauna and many other amazing gifts of civilization. Such advanced objects are finished by designers, specialists in style and technology, but we should consider a typical version of a bathhouse with three functional rooms: a steam room, a washing room, a dressing room or a relaxation room.

It is clear that all three rooms are finished differently. For example, pine cannot be used in a steam room, but it can be used in a dressing room, this will save money and fill the room with delicious coniferous aromas.

Important! The order of finishing activities in a wooden or other bath is the same. All work is carried out from the bottom up.

Algorithm for finishing work in the bath:

floor arrangement;
wall sheathing;
ceiling installation;
installation of equipment, furniture.

Proper finishing, which includes the installation of insulation, vapor barrier and decoration of the premises, will create a paradise for rest of the soul and body.

Floor arrangement

The process is not inherently difficult. In a wooden bath, logs are mounted from a bar of 200x200 mm or 250x250 mm, boards, edged or tongue-and-groove are laid on them. Of the materials, hardwood is preferable, but the use of oak is not recommended. Pine releases resinous substances when heated. The best option is larch floors.

The joints between the boards are made with a minimum gap for natural ventilation. This is especially true of the washing department, where there is excess water. In the steam room, the floor is raised from the general level by 150–200 mm to retain heat.

The boards are necessarily treated with an antiseptic, a primer to prevent their swelling, the formation of fungal colonies.

Many people cover the floor with ceramic tiles in the steam room and washing room, this is reasonable for a brick bath. In a wooden building, the best floor is a polished, carefully crafted board. Treatment with soils from Tikkurila, Snezhet and other companies will protect against deformation.

As for the floors in the rest room, it all depends on imagination and financial capabilities. You can use tiles of various types. Laminate with the Aqua Stop system, a special impregnation that creates reliable protection against moisture, does not allow the inner part of the panel - HDF board - to swell, does not deform, and lasts from 20 years. You can use modern liquid linoleum, which has recently appeared on the market of finishing materials, and much more.

The floor in rooms where water ingress is possible is done with a small slope and drain.

Bath wall decoration

For finishing the walls of the steam room, the choice of materials is not great; the use of wood-shaving materials, linoleums and other chemical products is unacceptable here.

The walls of the steam room are sheathed with natural wood, clapboard, grooved board from tree species:

Cedar. Moisture-resistant, able to withstand high temperatures and their differences, cedar is most preferable for the walls of the steam room, its wood, when heated, gives off substances that are healing for the human body, pleasant aromas of the taiga. The boards are tender to the touch, it is pleasant to lean back against the cedar wall. The steam room, trimmed with cedar, should be strongly heated for the first time and hold the heat for 40-45 minutes so that the cedar weeps the resin.
Abashi is a foreigner in our market, but is popular despite the high cost. The advantage of abasha is ultra-low thermal conductivity, the wood practically does not heat up, plus a pleasant appearance, tactility, interesting texture, color.
Linden. Healing tree, wood is resistant to high temperatures, does not lose its original color and appearance for 20–25 years, a real find for a steam room, essential linden oils heal bronchi, treat colds. Linden has a beautiful pastel shade that decorates and slightly romanticizes the space of the steam room;
Larch is the most frequent guest of steam rooms, washing rooms and rest rooms. Walls finished with larch are not afraid of moisture, the ephedra is well protected from swelling by resinous bags and the structure of the fibers. Wood has a diverse color palette, natural natural luster and beauty of the pattern. Walls finished with larch also require initial heating to maximum temperatures for 40-45 minutes in order for the resin to stand out. The material is inexpensive, it is considered folk.
Aspen. It is difficult, alas, to find it on the construction market, it is not cheap, but the high cost is justified. Wood does not rot, protects log walls, repels insects and has a healing effect on the human body. It literally treats migraines and joint diseases.

The walls of the washing room can be tiled, sheathed with clapboard of their coniferous wood. For wall tiling, you can use moisture-resistant drywall, OSB boards, moisture-resistant plywood.

The tile for the washing room is especially relevant in a brick building, it does not collapse under the influence of moisture, is easy to maintain, and is operated for a long time.

Important! It is better to use glazed tiles, more resistant. A matte rough surface is preferable so as not to slip, and the reverse side, smooth without porosity, will not allow the occurrence of fungus.

Whatever type of finish is used in the washing room, it is worth putting rubber mats or wooden grates on the floor.

The walls in the rest room should be finished depending on how well it is protected from the penetration of steam and moisture. But for a log bath, you can’t imagine anything better than polished logs, however, it’s a matter of taste. Even decorative plaster of any kind, including Venetian, is suitable for brick walls. And yet, the style features of the room play an important role in decorating the space, where you can relax after a pleasant procedure, sit by the samovar with friends, having a sincere conversation.

Decorative wall decoration is carried out after the installation of a layer of insulation and foil material. Tefopol, for example, perfectly seals the room, its use is permissible in the washing room and rest room, foil penofol serves as a vapor barrier, a heat reflector, and a heater at the same time.

The need for a vapor barrier layer for a brick bath is obvious, especially if forced ventilation is not provided in the premises. Walls must breathe. It is better to use membrane films and not save money by purchasing plain polyethylene.

Ceiling finish

Ceiling decoration is similar to wall decoration. For the steam room, the same materials and technologies are used. In the washing room, you can sew up the ceiling with clapboard made of linden, cedar, aspen. The best insulation for the ceiling of the steam room is ecowool. The material is expensive, but worth the investment. In addition, the ceiling area of the steam room is small.

You definitely need a layer of foil material, but its choice is fraught with some nuances. Do not use materials on foamed foam, polyurethane foam. The best option for insulation is ecowool plus foil on paper, that is, kraft foil.

Important! The use of high-quality finishing materials is a guarantee of safety and health. Saving on these points is harmful and dangerous!

Room decoration

The aesthetics and comfort of the space of bath rooms is formed not only by finishing materials. You will need good furniture:

shelves in the steam room;
a font in the washing room;
sofa, table for rest room.

We also need beautiful doors, glass or solid wood, and many other nice things.

A special factor of comfort, providing the functionality of the space, is the right lighting. Installation of electrical wiring and equipment, permissible voltage, the use of lamps - a topic for a separate discussion. Here you just need to note the importance of competent lighting in all rooms of the bath, which creates a mood, promotes relaxation and pleasant pastime.

During the construction of the bath, there comes a moment when it is necessary to decide on its interior decoration. Here it is very important to choose a material that will not only be beautiful and functional, but will also be able to withstand the specific microclimate of this room. Based on this, many are wondering how to inexpensively sheathe a bathhouse inside and what qualities should the selected material have? A properly equipped steam room is the key to a comfortable and pleasant stay, which is why the finishing of all its surfaces must be approached as responsibly as possible. In this article, we will consider in detail the process of landscaping this room, starting from the choice of materials and ending with the technology of their installation.

Choosing the Right Material

To the question of how inexpensively sheathe a bathhouse inside, there is one correct answer - with a tree. Why exactly them? Because it is the only 100% natural material that meets all the requirements for use in rooms with high humidity and high temperatures. This finish gives the space a special aesthetics, creates a pleasant atmosphere, and most importantly, perfectly retains heat.

For those who are interested in how to sheathe a bathhouse inside, besides wood, we should mention glass-magnesium sheets. This is a new material that is made from wood chips and fiberglass with the addition of various binders.

The plates are produced in light colors and can be used in rooms with high humidity. Since this is a relatively new product, it is rarely used for bath cladding, so we will not dwell on it for a long time.

From wooden materials are actively used: block house, panels and lining. For a bath, these options are considered the most suitable.

What wood should be chosen for a bath?

Being engaged in finishing walls and ceilings, it is not at all necessary to limit yourself to any one type of wood. The combination of various varieties that differ in shade will make it possible to make a more interesting and extraordinary design. But, before deciding which tree to sheathe the bath inside, you should take into account the properties and performance characteristics of each tree species.

Facing the ceiling and walls, it is better to use larch, linden, aspen and cedar. It is extremely undesirable to place pine materials in the steam room, since when heated they emit a pungent odor into the air, which can interfere with a comfortable rest.

But for finishing dressing rooms and rest rooms, this option is optimal. Pine has a beautiful texture, is easy to process and has a very attractive cost.

It is better to sheathe the steam room and the washing room with linden and larch.

These tree species are able to retain their original color for a long time and practically do not heat up under the influence of high temperature.

Steam room decoration

To finish the surfaces of the steam room, only high-quality materials should be selected. Most often, lining is used here. For a bath, a board of the highest class from hardwood is chosen.

The slats are located in a horizontal or vertical position and are fastened with nails, adhesives or staples in a secret way. In order to ensure reliable retention of heat and steam inside the room, a layer of heat-insulating material is placed on the walls.

For this purpose, can be used:

foil;
mineral wool;
polystyrene foam covered with foil;
parchment, etc.

It is very important that there is air space between the lining and the insulation. This can be achieved by mounting the crate on which the facing material will be installed. The distance between the rails should be no more than 50 cm.

The finished frame and lining are covered with an antiseptic. Processing is carried out before assembly. Wall cladding starts from any corner of the room, fixing the boards on both sides, with any of the above fasteners.

Floor covering: wood or ceramic?

The temperature in the steam room at floor level usually does not exceed 30 degrees, so they can be made of any material. It is more important to make the correct and quick draining of water from the bath. The rough floor is covered with a plank flooring, on which a polished floorboard or ceramic tile is laid.

Comparing these two coatings, it should be noted that the tile is more durable. This is due to the fact that under the influence of moisture, the wood darkens, rots and fails after a while. Ceramics, in turn, is not afraid of humidity, temperature changes and is not subject to rot and mold.

Despite this, very often it is wooden floors that are laid in the baths. This material harmonizes perfectly with the surrounding interior and is much more pleasant when touched with bare feet.

Considering how it is inexpensive to sheathe a bath inside, it is worth dwelling in detail on the installation technology of both options.

Wooden floor finish

The process of finishing the floor with wooden materials is very simple. First of all, the logs are laid on which the boards are mounted. They are placed on brick columns, which are installed on the base of the floor. For a log, choose boards measuring 20 x 20 or 25 x 25. They are laid in increments of no more than 1 meter. The floor level in the steam room must be 10-15 centimeters higher than in other rooms of the bath. This is necessary so that warm air does not leave the steam room for as long as possible. For laying the finished floor, grooved or edged material is used, at least 30 cm thick.

Before sheathing the bath inside with a board, all lining and logs must be pre-treated with an antiseptic composition. This will protect them from colonization by microorganisms and extend the life of the wooden floor.

Finishing floors with ceramic tiles

For safe movement for floors, you should choose tiles with a rough surface. This will make them less slippery when in contact with water.

For laying ceramic coating, it is necessary to make a solid concrete base. The surface must be perfectly clean, even and dry. Immediately before laying, the tiles are soaked in water for a couple of minutes. This is necessary so that it does not absorb moisture from the solution and the floor lining is of the highest quality and durable.

From the most noticeable corner of the room, begin laying the tiles using a sand-cement mortar or moisture-resistant adhesive. At the end of the work, the seams are hidden with a special moisture-resistant grout. It helps protect tiles from mold.

For more comfortable movement on the tile, you can place flooring on the floor, knocked down from wooden slats. Such designs are convenient in that they can be taken out of the steam room to dry.

Price

In order to properly plan your own budget, you need to understand how much it costs to sheathe a bath inside. The final amount depends on who will perform the finishing work and how high-quality material is chosen for finishing.

If you plan to hire specialists to equip the bath, you need to be prepared to pay for their services. So, the installation of the crate is estimated at 130 rubles per m2. Facing the walls and ceiling with clapboard will cost the owner of the premises from 350-500 rubles per m2.

In the event that the walls inside the bath will be sheathed with their own hands, only the costs of acquiring lining and related materials are taken into account.

A board of the highest quality made of linden costs about 500-600 rubles per m2.

Lining made of larch will cost 250-350 rubles per m2, while material made of coniferous wood has a price tag of 150-200 rubles m2.

To these costs should be added the cost of fasteners, bars and thermal insulation.

Conclusion

In this article, we found out how and with what it is inexpensive to sheathe a bath inside. In order to save money, the interior arrangement of the premises can be done independently, without resorting to the expensive help of specialists. After facing the floors, walls and ceiling, you need to take care of lighting and furniture installation. A variety of shelves and hooks will not be superfluous, on which you can put personal items and hang towels. After completing all the work, you can start bathing procedures and enjoy your vacation with relatives and friends.

How to sheathe a bath from the inside - how to choose a material

Briefly about the purpose of the skin

Do not rush to think about how it is better to sheathe a bath inside, because sheathing may not be needed at all. The task of the inner cladding of the bath is to keep the internal heat for a long period of time, which will significantly reduce fuel consumption and heating time. Thus, we can conclude that the sheathing is an integral part of the bath, but this is not entirely true, because the bath, built from solid timber using old technologies, does not need additional insulation (for more details: "Sheathing with a pair of clapboard - how to do it right").

Having built a bath from cheaper materials, you will have to think about choosing a sheathing material.

First of all, it is necessary to mention the main characteristics that the selected material should have:

It must withstand high temperatures and be non-flammable;
Steam and moisture resistance are also necessary indicators;
It is advisable to choose natural materials without harmful chemical treatment, so as not to harm your health with harmful fumes.

Lining for a bath

Lining is the most popular material for bath sheathing, because it combines all the most necessary qualities: reliability, beauty and reasonable price.

Also lining has a number of useful properties:

Lining allows you to save a large amount of fuel, reducing heat consumption;
Behind it you can hide various communications, increasing the level of comfort indoors;
The lining is resistant to moisture and steam, in addition, it is able to regulate the level of moisture in the steam room and allows the walls of the bath to “breathe”.
Longevity and resistance to the formation of fungus and mold are also important properties that this material possesses.

Next, it is worth talking about the right choice of material. First of all, pay attention to the fact that the price for lining up to 1.5 m is slightly lower than for material from 2 m, so it is worth choosing a short length. When installing a short lining, use a rail in the middle to avoid various difficulties (more: "Which lining is better for a bath - an overview of materials for a bath, dressing room and shower room").

It is also worth paying attention to the wood from which the lining is made:

The best option for a steam room is linden, because when heated, it releases essential oils, which have a disinfectant and anti-inflammatory effect. Also, the advantage of this wood is its low thermal conductivity, which allows you to protect the skin and respiratory tract from burns, while increasing sweating.
Aspen is a worthy alternative to linden. The price of aspen lining is quite small, and the material itself is resistant to moisture and decay processes. Warming up, aspen promotes healing person.
It is recommended to use larch in the shower, because it has high strength and resistance to water. Larch lining has a positive effect on well-being and improves immunity.
The steam room can also be finished with white acacia clapboard. Acacia is a very durable tree, so products made from it last a very long time. The only disadvantage of this wood is the high price.

You can see an example of such a skin in the photo.

Block house for a bath

Block house is classified by quality:

Grade "C" material is subjected to only surface treatment, various defects may be present on its surface, for example, cracks or chips. Such material is not recommended for installation in a bath;
Block house class "B" has an average quality and is extremely rarely used for finishing a bath. Small cracks and knots no more than 3 cm may be present on its surface;
On the surface of class "A" material you will not find any flaws, except for small knots. This option is great for a bath.
« Extra" class has perfect processing, and its surface is devoid of any flaws. Ideal for finishing baths, but also has a fairly high price.

Magelan

This is modern, however, not the best material for bath sheathing on the construction market.

It is completely unaffected by moisture and decay processes;
High temperature, as well as its differences, do not harm this material;
Magnelite sheets are quite easy to mount.

Conclusion

Now you are familiar with all the options for the interior lining of the bath and you can independently decide how to sheathe the sauna inside, starting from your own desires and financial situation.

Bath cladding inside clapboard

What materials are not used for the construction of baths - bricks, foam concrete and gas silicate blocks and much more. But only a tree is able to create that unique microclimate that will favorably affect the well-being of visitors to the steam room. Yes, and the look is much more pleasant, more familiar wooden panels. And even if the bath is built of wood concrete, stone or other similar material, nothing will prevent you from sheathing the inner surfaces of the walls and ceilings with wooden clapboard with your own hands.

The wagon is…

Lining as a product was first used for lining the walls of wagons. This is where its name came from. The difference from simple edged boards was the presence of grooves along the long sides of the lining, which ensured maximum contact between adjacent panels. The sheathed wall was obtained without cracks and gaps, smooth and quite beautiful in appearance.

Along with technological progress, the production of various types of lining also stepped forward. Today it is produced in several versions of the profiles themselves, which differ in size, quality, material of manufacture.

Note! On sale you can find lining made of plastic, but such panels are suitable only for lining the dressing room and changing rooms in the bath. Plastic does not withstand high temperatures and is not suitable for finishing a steam room. Wooden products, in turn, regulate the level of humidity by absorbing or evaporating water from their surfaces, and some types of wood additionally emit aromatic components that have a beneficial effect on the human respiratory system.

Choosing lining for sheathing

Lining made of wood can be ordinary or euro. The first has a roughness and pile on its surface, the second is perfectly smooth. On the back side of eurolining there are ventilation ducts that prevent the accumulation of moisture (condensate) and relieve stress in the material. According to GOST 8242-88, the moisture content of wooden products is allowed within 12 ± 3%, however, ordinary lining can be made of wood with a moisture content of up to 25%, which can lead to deformation during the operation of the bath. Proceeding from this, we will choose a suitable wooden lining for the lining of the bath.

Marking and technical requirements

The lining is made from softwood and hardwood. The best options for a steam room are aspen, linden, cedar, spruce, alder, oak, pine.

WoodColorPropertiesPhoto


Aspen	White, acquires a silvery sheen. Barely visible yellow growth rings.	Lightweight, withstands high humidity and temperature well. Over time, it hardens so much that it is difficult to drive even a nail into the aspen panel. Does not emit resin, does not heat up.
Linden	Light, brown, less often reddish shades. There is a matte finish.	The fibers are homogeneous, the surface heats up a little, in the steam room it releases healthy aroma components. Upon contact with linden wood in a humid environment, iron oxidizes and rusts, streaks appear.
Linden Canadian or Siberian cedar	Brown with a pink tint.	One of the most expensive and healthy wood species. Does not rot, withstands mechanical loads well, does not crack.
Beige, brown with red tints. Darkens with time. Pronounced pattern of growth rings and resin channels.	Good mechanical properties, viscosity, warping is moderate. Does not cause difficulties in processing. It emits resin when heated, so it does not bypass for sheathing those surfaces in the steam room with which tactile contact is possible. Not suitable for lining the ceiling of a steam room, or repeated heating of the steam room is required, followed by removal of the resin that has come out (repeat the procedure until all the resin comes out of the lining). For a bath, pine lining is better to choose Extra class.

The following table lists the classes and their descriptions. It is worth knowing that wood with a large number of knots heats up faster and can burn. The marking is the same for all types of wooden lining.

Class or varietyDescription


Extra	No cracks, knots or other defects. The surface is perfectly smooth and even.
A or 1	The surface is smooth or slightly rough. There are 1 healthy knot per 1 linear meter (knot diameter not more than 1.5 cm). when drying - no more than the width of the panel. There can be pitchers and resin pockets of 2 pcs. by 1 r.m.
B or 2	A lot of knots, of which there can be no more than 2 pieces falling out. by 1 r.m. There may be through cracks up to 1 mm wide and up to 15-30 cm long, hairline cracks are allowed along the entire length of the board. The presence of wormholes (3 pcs. per 1 r.m.) and rot (no more than 1/10 of the panel) is allowed. Grade B lining is suitable for painting.
C or 3	The quality is low. Lots of different defects. Such lining is suitable for upholstery of technical rooms or rough work.

The norms of defects according to GOST are indicated in the table below.

It remains only to choose the lining profile, because. Each one has its own set of nuances.

ProfileDescriptionScheme


Standard	It looks like a classic quarter-board lining. It has a thorn-groove connection, and the thorn is shorter than the groove to prevent deformation.
Calm or Kolkhoz Woman	It differs from the previous one in rounded edges and the presence of channels on the reverse side to prevent the accumulation of condensate.
Produced in accordance with DIN 68126. Has an elongated spike. After mounting the lining, the surface of the wall is ribbed.
Soft line or soft line is a symbiosis of Euro and Calm lining. Soft rounded corners, elongated tenon, embossed texture of the wall after panel assembly.
It is applied to finishing of external walls and rooms. Stylized as a rounded log. There is a thorn-groove connection, the front side is usually rounded, and the wrong side is flat or with channels for ventilation.

Video - How to choose lining

We calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe inner lining

For example, let's take a bath 3x3 meters with a ceiling height of 2.5 meters. Sheathing will be carried out on all walls and ceilings, the floor is not taken into account in the calculations.

Suppose there are two rooms in the bath - a steam room 2x3 and an entrance hall 1x3 meters. We calculate the area of \u200b\u200bsheathing the steam room.

Ceiling area: 2x3=6 m2.
Long wall area: 3x2.5=7.5 m2.
Short wall area: 2x2.5=5 m2.
Total room area: 6 (ceiling) + 7.5 (first long wall) + 7.5 (second long wall) + 5 (first short wall) + 5 (second short wall) = 31 m2.

We calculate the area of \u200b\u200bsheathing the hallway.

Ceiling area: 1x3=3 m2.
The area of two long walls: 3x2.5 \u003d 7.5 m2. 7.5x2=15 m2.
The area of two short walls: 1x2.5 = 2.5 m2. 2.5x2=5 m2.
Total area: 3+15+5=23 m2.

The total sheathing area will be 31 + 23 = 54 square meters. From this figure, subtract the area of window and door openings, and then add a 15% margin of material for trimming.

The price of lining is indicated for square or linear meters, less often - cubic meters.

You can calculate the difference in price if you find out how many planks of lining are required to sheathe the inner surface of the bath.

The most popular profile size is as follows:

panel thickness 12.5 mm;
panel width 96 mm;
panel length from 2000 to 6000 mm.

The following tables will help you find out how many square meters of material are in one cubic meter, calculate the number of packages (1 package \u003d 10 lining panels) and determine the cost of lining the room.

Advice! You should not buy lining without packaging (shrink film) - this is a low-quality product that will quickly lose its properties and the bath lining will have to be completely or partially changed.

Choose the method of mounting the lining

The lining in the baths is fixed vertically and horizontally. But a more rational option for a bath is a horizontal one.

Consider a number of advantages of this type of attachment:

When erecting and finishing turnkey baths, builders often mount the lining vertically, choosing panels that are suitable in height and installing them without trimming. With vertical fastening, it is easier to arrange corners, the work takes a little less time. But saving time often “goes sideways”, because if a vertical board is damaged by an accidental impact, fallen coal or high humidity, the entire wall will have to be disassembled.

Installation of lining

Before finishing, the walls and ceiling of the bath are insulated. It is best to use mineral (stone) wool or other heaters that do not deform when heated and do not emit harsh chemical fumes into the air. A layer of foil vapor barrier is necessarily fixed on top of the insulation. Ruberoid and glassine are not used in the bath. The furnace and ventilation system are mounted before the installation of the lining.

Video - Insulation of the walls of the bath

Video - Ventilation in the steam room

Even if the ceiling is made of wood, you can’t just nail the lining to it with nails. Consider the step-by-step process of ceiling sheathing.

Step 1. Assembling the crate on the ceiling

The crate will consist of slats with a cross section of 2x5 cm to 5x5 cm. The slats must be fairly even and dry.

The slats will be fixed on top of the foil, under which there is already a crate for insulation. The optimal distance between adjacent rails is from 40 to 60 cm.

Note! It is understood that the crate for the insulation was attached using a level and plumb lines, and as a result, a horizontal ceiling surface was obtained without distortions.

The slats will be perpendicular to the direction of the lining planks. We fix the first rail at a distance of 10 cm from the wall, using yellow-passivated stainless wood screws 7-10 cm long. We screw in the screws every half a meter. It is recommended to pre-drill holes in the rails for self-tapping screws so that the wood does not crack.

We fasten the second rail strictly parallel to the first at a distance of 45-60 cm. The ends of the rails should be 10 cm from the nearest walls. We continue to work until the last rail of the crate is installed. We constantly check the correct fastening of the rails, using a stretched fishing line / cord or a laser level. If a horizontal deviation is detected, small wooden wedges are placed between the foil and the rail.

In some cases, when it is required to make a lower ceiling in the bath, metal hangers are used to fasten the crate.

In this case, first on the ceiling with long self-tapping screws (dowels with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of 80 mm are used only for ceilings made of concrete and other dense materials), suspensions are fixed, after which the sheathing beams are horizontally attached to them (self-tapping screws with large threads are used, length 3 .5 cm). It is more convenient to do the work together, so that the assistant holds the second end of the rail and monitors the correct position of the crate.

It is advisable to impregnate a wooden crate with an antiseptic so that it lasts longer.

Note! You can first assemble the crate of the ceiling and walls, and then proceed to the installation of the lining or completely sheathe the ceiling, and then attach the slats and wooden panels to the walls.

Step 2. Mounting the lining on the ceiling

It is not necessary to make through holes in the lining and hammer nails into it. This is not only unsightly, but will also lead to corrosion of the hardware and the appearance of rust spots on the ceiling.

To fix the lining, you can use either a set of clamps with nails, or staples 38 or 40 mm long. Staples 25 mm long are not used.

Before attaching the first bar, a spike should be cut from it. To do this, we draw a straight line with a pencil, cut the board along with an electrolobe, apply it to the place of the future location so that the panel is 1-2 cm away from the walls.

On a note! If you are working alone, use panel supports. This will make it much easier to keep her.

We fasten the first panel of the lining with self-tapping screws to the crate. We maintain a step of 50-80 cm, we use only stainless screws. If you want to drown the heads of the screws in the thickness of the lining, drill holes for the screws, and then countersink each of them (holes).

Consider the method of fastening with clamps. Metal clamps are inserted into the groove of the first board.

Each of them has three holes, into which either 2 nails included in the kit are driven in, or a bracket is shot. Kleimers are inserted with a step corresponding to the step of the crate, so that the lining is attached to the rails, and not to the foil and insulation.

If instead of kleimers are used staples, then they shoot into the groove of the lining board at an angle.

When the first board is fixed, the next panel is inserted into its groove with a spike. To seal the connection, we take a wooden “chock”, apply it to the end of the panel and easily tap it along the entire length.

There is another way to seal the connection. You will need a wedge, a clamp with a clamp and a hammer. We fix the bracket on the lath of the crate, insert a wedge between the bracket and the end of the lining, knock on the wide end of the wedge with a hammer.

We continue to sheathe the ceiling, if necessary, cutting out holes for lamps, a ceiling ventilation grill, and other decorative elements.

The last board of the lining may have to be cut lengthwise. We measure the distance from the wall to the last inserted plank, make markings, cut out the panel, insert the part of the board with the spike into the groove.

To seal the connection, a bracket is useful. We insert it into the gap between the wall and the lining, tap it with a mallet.

Note! Periodically, you need to check the parallelism of the lining boards. For this, it is convenient to use a tape measure. We insert the "tongue" of the tape measure into the gap between the first panel and the wall, measure the distance to the end of the last panel attached to the ceiling. We repeat the operation on the opposite side of the ceiling, the distance should be the same. That is, if on one side 5 panels nailed to the ceiling are 60 cm wide, then on the opposite side it should also be 60 cm.

The last board, as well as the first, is fixed with self-tapping screws.

Video - Installation of lining on the ceiling

Mounting lining on the wall

Step 1. Mounting the battens on the walls

We fasten the first rail with self-tapping screws to the very bottom of the wall, at a distance of 1-2 cm from the floor.

We nail the following rails in the corners of the room.

Also, slats will pass near windows and doors. To make the work go faster (or in the absence of a screwdriver), you can nail the slats with a nailer (suitable for nails up to 65-160 mm long) or a staple gun (the length of the staples for a 20 mm thick rail is from 38 to 51 mm), but it is important to drive in nails and staples not perpendicular to the wall, but at an angle (from top to bottom), so that the hardware tightly holds the wood even with its thermal expansion.

After all the vertical rails are installed, the crate is nailed around the door and window openings, you can proceed to the installation of horizontal rails, the first of which is mounted with an indent of 10 cm from the ceiling. The danger of breaking through the foil with sharp edges is minimal, so the chamfer can no longer be grinded. Be sure to check the correct position of the installed rails.

For convenience, the distance between the top rail and the floor is divided into equal sections of 40-50 cm, with the resulting pitch, horizontal bars of the crate are fixed using 90 or 100 mm self-tapping screws (holes are drilled under them with a drill) or nails.

Note! The crate described above is suitable for mounting the lining vertically. For a horizontal arrangement of lining strips, horizontal rails are first attached to the wall, and vertical ones on top of them.

It is worth noting that if the walls of the log house are sheathed with clapboard, and there are no layers of insulation and foil (for example, in the dressing room), then the crate is assembled on aluminum hangers. They are fixed to the logs of the log house with self-tapping screws, after which the slats are attached, leaving a gap of 5-10 cm for ventilation.

Step 2. Mounting the lining on the walls

If a lining boards will be arranged vertically, then we fix the first bar from any of the corners of the room.

It is worth carefully measuring the length of the panels, because between the floor and the wood, as well as between the already sheathed ceiling and the wooden wall planks, it is necessary to leave a gap of 2 cm.

To beautifully decorate the corner, cut off a spike from the board. We apply the lining to the crate, check the verticality, screw in the screws.

We insert the second board into the groove of the first panel. We seal the connection with a mallet. Next, we fix with clamps or brackets (the installation method is identical on walls and ceilings, detailed instructions are described above).

If a lining will be located horizontally, installation starts from the ceiling.

We drill holes for self-tapping screws, apply the board to the crate (necessarily with the groove down) at a distance of 2 cm from the floor, check the horizontal position. We screw the screws into the drilled holes. We leave a small gap between the ceiling and the first panel, which will be closed with a plinth. We insert clamps into the groove of the first panel or shoot the brackets.

We insert the second board with a spike into the groove of the one above. We check their parallelism, after which we again fix them with clasps or staples.

Video - Lathing of the steam room

When all the walls are sheathed, all that remains is to install the skirting boards (on the floor or additionally in the corners and under the ceiling), ceiling lamps and sockets, and make shelves. On this, the lining of the bath inside the clapboard is completed.

Video - Finishing the steam room

Files for download: DIN 68126 (standard for the manufacture of eurolining) and GOST 8242-88 (standard for the manufacture of wooden lining, plinths, etc.).

How to sheathe a steam room in a bath - how to choose the right wood

The most important room in the bath is the steam room. In addition to its main function, it must satisfy aesthetic needs, because where it is beautiful to spend time is much more pleasant. Consider how to finish the steam room inside so that it pleases with its appearance.

The choice of finishing material

Traditionally, wood is used for sheathing the steam room, which allows you to give the room a beautiful appearance, creates a healthy atmosphere and retains heat. However, there are many different types of wood and of course the question arises, what kind of wood is better to sheathe the steam room?

For the production of finishing material for the bath, various types of wood are used. However, it is not recommended to take coniferous wood for sheathing the steam room, since it can release resin when heated strongly (read: "Finishing a steam room in a bath with your own hands - from floor to ceiling"). It is best to use such types of wood for finishing a bath as linden, larch, oak, aspen. If you really want to enjoy the coniferous aroma during bathing procedures, then you can finish with cedar material. It is durable and not resinous.

Requirements for the material for sheathing the steam room

When choosing how to sheathe a steam room in a bath, you should pay attention to such points as:

The wood must be moisture resistant and dry quickly, which will allow it to avoid rotting.
The resin value should be close to zero. The best option is that the resins are completely absent.
The surface must be flat, smooth, free of roughness, gaps and knots.
The wood should have a low thermal conductivity, since the wood, which is very hot in the steam room, can burn the skin.

When choosing which tree is better to buy for a steam room, you should pay attention to linden. Lining from such a tree is considered the most optimal material. Linden wood has low thermal conductivity, is easily processed, and releases useful essential oils.

Aspen is also a good material for steam rooms, as it is durable, strong and has healing properties. And another advantage is the low cost.

When deciding which tree to sheathe the bath inside, you can opt for larch. It has a positive effect on the human body, has a high density, strength, low thermal conductivity, does not absorb moisture. In general, this wood has all the necessary qualities and is perfect for finishing a bath.

Interior arrangement of the steam room

In the steam room, as a rule, benches, shelves, headrests are installed. They are easy enough to make, so you can do it yourself. Bath furniture is recommended to be made from the same type of wood that was used for sheathing the walls of the steam room.

Now the African oak or, in other words, abashi, has become widespread.

It has such advantages as:

low thermal conductivity;
moisture resistance;
high density;
durability;
strength;
does not deform;
pleasant to the touch.

The disadvantage of abasha is the rather high price.

Sheathing the steam room, the lining can be mounted vertically or horizontally (for more details: "How to fix the lining in the bath - the rules and sequence of installation"). If a horizontal arrangement is chosen, then the lining should begin to be nailed from the bottom up. This technique will prevent water from seeping into the joints.

First you need to install vertical racks, between which insulation material will be laid. To do this, markup is made, which should start from the corner. The distance between the inner sides of the racks should be 59 cm. Such a step will allow you to correctly lay the insulation of the desired thickness.

There are some peculiarities when cladding the walls of a log bath. It is quite difficult to fasten the sheathing boards in a vertical position and not everyone decides to do this work on their own. To obtain the desired result and avoid errors, it is necessary to process the side of the vertically positioned racks turned to the logs. See also: "How and with what to process the lining in the steam room - tips from practice."

To do this, you need to make a special copier. It is a thin ruler, which is pointed on one side and has holes along the entire length that match the diameter of a pencil. A stand is taken and pressed against the wall, then with the help of a copier, lines repeating the shape of the log house are drawn and drawn.

Next, the racks are processed in accordance with the drawn lines. It is enough to make sure that the rack with a step of 60 cm is tightly adjacent to the logs in several places. The vertical level must be strictly observed. The length of the contact surface should be about 2-3 cm, this will be enough. Be sure to board for the steam room is treated with an antiseptic.

The next step is to attach the protective membrane. This must be done from the bottom up, while each subsequent film should go onto the already fixed one by 20-30 cm. The upper edge is attached to the logs with a stapler, one of the options is selected for overlapping places: glue with tape, upholster or use self-adhesive tape. See also: "How to make a steam room in the bath correctly and beautifully."

A protective film is aligned under the racks installed in accordance with the markings. To do this, use a level or plumb line. To fix the material to the logs, galvanized screws or nails are suitable. You can do without screws of great length: a blind hole is drilled in the rack, which should be a few millimeters larger than the diameter of the screw head.

It is necessary to pull the rope from above and below the wall, it must be tied to the extreme racks. It will help align and install the internal racks.

It is necessary to stretch and align the protective film in such a way that air does not get between the open logs. Otherwise, such a mistake will lead to the fact that both the frame and the lining of the steam room will begin to rot and deform, as a result, bath procedures will no longer benefit the body.

During the installation of the corner posts, it is necessary to immediately lay the insulation material.

The nuances of the interior decoration of the steam room

Before proceeding with the finishing work, it is necessary to prepare the material that will be used to finish the steam room. Lining before fastening to the walls must be acclimatized in the room in which it will be used.

In the steam room, the floor must necessarily be higher than the floor level in other rooms. Shelves are installed about 10 cm above the heater. Benches and shelves should not have sharp corners. Inside the steam room, only natural materials should be used.

It is very important to choose which wood to sheathe the steam room with, as not all types of wood are suitable for this. You should also take into account all the features of the decoration of the most important room of the bath, on which it depends whether the procedures adopted will be useful.

Bath sheathing inside: material selection and installation

To date, there are many finishing materials. However, not all of them are suitable for lining the bath from the inside.

In this article, we will look at how to sheathe a bath inside and how to do it yourself?

What material should be chosen for the interior decoration of the bath

The main thing to remember when choosing a material for sheathing:

the material must be environmentally friendly;
resistant to moisture and high temperatures;
have low thermal conductivity.

One of the most suitable materials is wood. Exploring the pros and cons of different types of wood, we decided that the ideal option for cladding a bath inside is a lining made of linden. It has low thermal conductivity, is easy to process, and also releases essential oils that have a beneficial effect on human health. The price for it is not much different from the price of lining from other types of wood.

Linden lining installation

Step 1. Preparation

First you need to prepare the necessary tools and materials during the installation process:

Jigsaw;
Screwdriver;
stapler;
Level;
A hammer;
Self-tapping screws (depending on the size of the bars);
Nails (1.2×20 mm);
Staples;
Bars (you need to choose bars, the thickness of which is slightly greater than the thickness of the insulation);
Insulation (the most suitable option is balsam wool);
Aluminium foil;
Aluminum adhesive tape;
Well, directly lining itself.

Step 2. Lathing

The installation of the crate should be carried out perpendicular to the position of the lining.
We start from the ceiling of the bath: we level the bars with a level, if necessary, we make substrates from wood or plywood, fix them with self-tapping screws, set the bars at a distance of 50 - 70 cm.
We frame the walls in the same way.
In places of doorways and windows around the perimeter, we attach additional bars.
Next, we treat the crate with an antiseptic to prevent decay and increase the service life.
The openings between the bars, with a slight seal, are filled with insulation boards.

Step 3. Warming and vapor barrier

Attention!
In the process of warming the bath, use goggles and a respirator or other means to protect your eyes and face.
In contact with the mucous particles of the insulation cause irritation.

We fasten strips of aluminum foil for a bath horizontally with a stapler, from the bottom up, overlapping the previous strip of each next by 5-10 centimeters. We glue the joints with aluminum tape to prevent moisture from getting under the vapor barrier.

Step 4. Sheathing the walls and ceiling of the bath with clapboard

We start the installation of the first lining from the corner and continue along the perimeter.
Using a jigsaw, cut the lining to the desired length.
We apply the lining and fix it along the entire height with the help of self-tapping screws.

Tip: in order to avoid chips in the lining, drill small holes in the places where you will screw in the screws.

We insert the kleimer into the groove of the lining and nail it to the crate with nails, as shown in the video in this article.
We insert the next one into the groove of the installed lining, in order for the lining to go to the end, we put a piece of the lining and hammer along the entire length with a hammer. We also fix it with the help of kleimers to the crate.
In the same way, we continue the installation of the following lining.
We install the lining on the ceiling in the same way as we did it on the walls.
After installing all the lining, we close the corners with wooden skirting boards. To do this, we cut the plinth of the desired length and attach it to the wall panel using small nails.

Step 5. Surface treatment

Despite all the advantages of wood, it also has disadvantages - over time, wood under the influence of moisture undergoes decay, which significantly worsens its appearance and reduces its service life. In order for the lining in the bath to please you with its beauty and durability for a long time, there are many materials to ensure the protection of wood from moisture, insects and other adverse environmental factors.

We will consider several types of wood processing products:

Dye

The most accessible means for processing is paint, but it is ineffective, and its use inside the bath is undesirable, since many types of paints break down and release harmful substances under the influence of high temperatures.

Wood impregnation solutions

Such solutions mainly provide non-complex protection, their action is aimed at some specific protection, for example, there are agents with antiseptic properties, there are also agents for protecting wood from fire.

Special lacquers

In our opinion, the most suitable means is special varnish coatings, since these compounds provide comprehensive protection against insects, cracking and moisture. In addition, with the help of such a composition, it is possible to give the lining different shades without disturbing the natural wood pattern, thereby helping to achieve the desired result in the design of the bath.

Conclusion

So, after you have installed all the cladding elements and decided on the type of protective coating, it remains only to process all the wooden surfaces inside the bath with it. One of the possible results can be seen in the photo. In this article, we looked at how to sheathe a bathhouse inside with a linden clapboard.

How to sheathe a bath with clapboard inside: stages and sheathing technology

It is not recommended to use non-natural materials for the interior decoration of the bath. High temperature and constant humidity make it necessary to use only stress-resistant types of sheathing for decoration. One of the classics is lining. You can find out how to sheathe a bath with clapboard inside by reading the article to the end. We will help the reader not only complete the interior decoration, but also show how to choose the material.

Steam room trimmed with linden clapboard, covered with heat-resistant oil

Which lining is best for a bath

Linden lining should lie down unpacked before finishing

Lining for the interior decoration of the bath is chosen depending on the purpose of a particular room, the degree of humidity in it, the temperatures used, etc. All material is divided according to several criteria: size, what it is made of, type of wood.

You can subdivide the material by size :

classical. It has a narrow size, it is better to mount it vertically, since the horizontal arrangement visually lowers the ceiling, which is already low in the bath. In addition, the horizontal fastening prevents water from flowing down freely, and it accumulates in the connecting locks.
Eurolining. These are wider and heavier panels, more interesting in the design of the room and have the same quality characteristics as thin lining. On the back side of the lining there is a special cut, which relieves stress in the product and over time the finish will not crack.

According to its composition, the material is divided into: vinyl, plastic, wood and metal. For a bath, the best option is made of wood, the rest for facade decoration.

Types of wood for the manufacture of finishes for the bath

The steam room trimmed with aspen clapboard looks attractive

It is important what type of wood the product is made of. For a bath, wood trim with the lowest thermal conductivity is used: linden, aspen, abachi, cedar, alder. Moreover, you can not take any cedar, but only the northern one. It has less resin and when heated, the walls and ceiling will not start to cry. Larch species have a lower density of wood and with tactile contact in the bath, the lining will be more pleasant, even at high temperatures in the steam room. Such lining is more expensive, but the costs will be justified. Each of the types under consideration is better suited for different bath rooms.

Aspen: has a beautiful reddish tint and increased moisture resistance. In terms of durability, aspen can only be compared with larch. Upon contact with water, aspen wood does not collapse, but rather hardens. It is better to use for finishing the rest room, washing department. The only negative is the high price, because of which it is not recommended to use it in the steam room and dressing room.

The original version of the steam room trimmed with lime lining

Linden: Lining has become traditional for finishing the bath from the inside. Linden does not heat up at high temperatures and has a pleasant whitish color. But linden has a serious drawback - if not treated with antiseptics and protective compounds, it quickly begins to darken and rot.

Cedar lining in combination with linden looks great

Cedar: This is a coniferous tree, but its structure is low density, so it is often used for baths. Cedar has excellent antiseptic properties and, when heated, gives off a pleasant smell. But it is not recommended to use it in a steam room, since there is still some percentage of resin in it.

Alder lining in the interior of the bath looks original and modern

Alder: has a pleasant pinkish hue with a pleasant velvety texture. Holds temperature well and is not afraid of moisture. The baths can be used in any part.

When choosing lining for finishing a bath, it is better to take Extra or AB grade chamber drying. Since changes in temperature and humidity in the baths occur constantly, it is impossible to use material with inaccurate or curved shapes. And in the higher grades this is unacceptable.

A step-by-step description of the installation of lining inside the baths

Aspen lining is sewn onto the ceiling

Before finishing, you need to decide whether only the walls or the ceiling will be poured. To do this, you can see photos of finished works and stop at the design you like.

It is necessary to sheathe the bath inside starting from the ceiling. Only after this wall. But first the walls need to be waterproofed and insulated.

Bath wall and ceiling insulation

Scheme of a simple variant of sheathing with clapboard of a steam room of a bath

It is not necessary to insulate all the walls of the bath, especially if it is a small summer log house 3x3 m in size. In such, only the steam room is insulated. In other cases, the entire Russian bath from the inside, including the dressing room and the relaxation room.

As a heater, you need to choose a fire-resistant material, such as bosalt wool. It is better not to consider all materials like polystyrene. The insulation is attached to a pre-prepared crate od which is attached to the vapor barrier. Due to the large temperature difference, condensate can accumulate on the walls, the vapor barrier will protect the insulation.

Glassine should be fixed on top of this structure. It will play the role of waterproofing. All seams are glued with a special water-repellent glue. Then everything is covered with foil, it will reflect heat and prevent steam from escaping. You need to fasten the foil between the crate using a construction stapler or buttons with an overlap of 10-15 cm.

Material handling

The walls of the bath begin to be sheathed from the opposite corner from the entrance

Before fastening, the lining must be unpacked and kept in baths for 1-2 days. The fact is that manufacturers, in order to protect the material after chamber drying, pack it in an airtight film. And getting into the natural environment, the tree absorbs moisture from the air and swells a little.

After that, you need to choose how to process the material. It is better to take the composition intended directly for baths. These contain antipyrines and moisture-resistant components.

Mounting on the walls and ceiling of the bath

Fastening the lining begins with the ceiling finish. The first bar should be fixed opposite the door. There are two ways to fix the links in the baths:

Small carnations to the main crate into the groove at an angle of 45 0. Such an attachment will be invisible and the ceiling will look like a single system. It is not necessary to drive the lining tightly to each other when wet, it will swell and warp the entire structure or it will simply move away from the wall in separate links. By leaving a gap, the lining gets space for natural movement.
Small carnations through the lining to the crate. This method is more suitable for eurolining. Beforehand, small recesses are drilled in each attached link, and then a nail is driven into them. These places are closed with corks made of wood and PVA glue.

Since the lining is thin, it is inconvenient to hammer in the whole nail with a hammer. To simplify, use a tool - doboynik

To the wall, the links must begin to be fastened from the most prominent corner to the door. Mount it in exactly the same way as on the ceiling.

A ventilated gap of 4-5 cm should remain between the lining and the walls. A gap of 3-4 cm is also left between the walls and the ceiling. In order for the air to pass well under the lining, planks are attached to the main crate. Finishing material will be attached to this second crate. Lathing step 40-50 cm. The direction is perpendicular to the fastening of the sheathing.

After fastening, the bath is thoroughly warmed up and see what happens after cooling. Incorrectly fixed links are additionally strengthened with carnations.

Subtleties of finishing inside the bath

It is not necessary to mount the lining horizontally in the washing and steam rooms. Water splashes will fall into the castle, and the lining will quickly darken. But if the design requires a horizontal mount, then the spike should look up.
All fasteners must be taken with a zinc coating, since iron will quickly rust with moisture.
All mounting corners and slats at the top need to be slightly sharpened at the bottom, so water droplets will go down faster.
The slats are fixed 4-5 cm from the base, so as not to block the ventilated gap.
Consider a ventilation system in the bathhouse, so the moisture will quickly evaporate and the lining will last longer.
If the lining turns black, it must be immediately treated with bleaching compounds, for example, Senezh Sauna

We examined how to do the interior decoration of the bath with a clapboard with our own hands. Observing all the technique and watching the thematic video in this article, even a beginner will be able to handle the work with his own hands.

How to sheathe a bath with a clapboard with your own hands?

Wood is an ideal finishing material for a bath

The Russian bath is primarily known for the presence of abundant steam inside the room. This effect occurs due to the bare log cabin without special processing. Heat retention in Ancient Russia was achieved by creating especially dense and massive walls, which, at the same time, could absorb moisture from the air and retain it for a long time. In addition, such walls were needed to transfer heat into the bath. Many heard the loud hissing of the walls, which is why various stories were born in Russia. In fact, the hissing was from the wood, which absorbed the damp steam and set in motion the condensation effect. Most people tried to build a bath from the thickest log cabin, as this provided high-quality heating.

In those days, it took a long time to melt the bath, about 4 hours. It should be remembered that wood is a hygroscopic material, which quickly becomes unusable. Then it was the cheapest and most common resource. But today everything has changed radically. A modern bath requires a special approach to wall decoration. The main goal now is a tangible reduction in heat energy costs and an acceleration of the heating time. At the moment, the finishing of the bath is most often carried out using a special material - lining. You should know how to sheathe a bath with clapboard in a quality manner so as not to have problems in the future.

The heating of a steam room with lining becomes much easier, firewood is consumed in small quantities. The only drawback is that the bath does not retain heat so well, so you have to use fuel much more often. Steam is created thanks to modern furnaces and steam generators. At the same time, it is necessary to constantly monitor its supply and control the presence of heat inside the room.

How to choose the type of lining

High-quality lining prevents the formation of various bacteria, mold and fungus, while controlling the level of humidity inside the bath itself. The main requirements for the material are high moisture resistance and environmental safety.

Initially, the lining for the bath was made in a quarter and in a tongue and groove. Because of this, over time, the slats shifted and the pressed joints collapsed. At the moment, almost all lining is made in the groove and in the crest.

Advice from the master!

It is important to know: in order to save money, try to search and purchase a lining of 1.5 m in length at the building materials warehouses. It costs much less than a material of 2 m. It is quite simple to process a lining with such a length in a bath. It is only necessary to sheathe the junction with a rail. At the same time, you will save a lot on building materials.

Lining fastening schemes

Sheathing a bath with clapboard can be carried out in 2 ways: vertical and horizontal. Most experienced bath attendants agree that sheathing a bath with a clapboard using the vertical method is not the best idea. The reason for this is the different temperature of the wood from below and above, which will directly affect the service life of the material. Finishing the bath with clapboard horizontally will contribute to a more uniform distribution of temperature. In addition, horizontal cladding allows you to visually increase the height of the wall in a small steam room.

Benefits of horizontal bath cladding.

In case of darkening of the floors, you can easily change the lining in the right place.
Due to the presence of a vertical frame, the bath will be protected from the inside from rats, mice and other rodents.
Installation of horizontal cladding is several times easier than arranging vertical cladding.
The liquid does not seep between the joints of the boards, the lining dries out much better, which helps to extend its service life.
Ventilation outside the lining is carried out more efficiently due to the presence of a vertical frame. In addition, the gap under the lining also becomes ventilated.

Please note: in the case of fastening the lining in a horizontal pattern, it is necessary to direct the groove downwards.

Benefits of vertical bath cladding.

The bath becomes more like a sauna due to higher temperatures and dry air.
Due to the lack of splashes, the liquid will not seep between the joints of the boards, respectively, the wood will not darken.
For good ventilation under the lining, it is enough to drill small holes.

Installation of finishing material

After weighing the advantages of each of the schemes, you can choose the most suitable option. Remember that the horizontal sheathing method will achieve the effect of a real Russian bath.

Advice from the master!

Finishing the bath with clapboard in a vertical pattern, in turn, will ensure the presence of high temperatures. You will have a real sauna.

How to sheathe a bath with clapboard: detailed instructions

The plating procedure consists of 4 stages, each of which does not take very much time. Finishing a bath with a clapboard with your own hands is a simple process. Follow the instructions on how to properly sheathe the interior of the steam room with clapboard, and you will succeed.

Stage 1: preparation for work

Before fixing the lining inside the bath, you need to carry out preparatory work. If there are differences on the walls, it is necessary to level them with putty. Ceiling and wall coverings are treated with antifungal mixtures. Then the electrical wiring and pipeline are placed. After purchasing the lining, you need to bring it into the bathhouse and leave it there for a couple of days so that it gets used to the atmosphere of the room.

Stage 2: installation of the frame

Wooden blocks are used as a frame. Their size is selected based on the density of the insulation.

Frame for lining installation

Then it is necessary to attach the bars randomly on the wall and mark points on it for mounting metal suspensions. The bars are placed in a row and the distance between them should be about 44-48 cm.

Important to know: it is desirable that the metal parts be made of galvanized iron. In the case of using other materials, traces of rust appear on the wood after a while. Wooden blocks also need to be treated with an antifungal mixture so that the lining is protected from harmful bacteria from all sides.

Holes are drilled for dowels and metal hangers are fixed. Wooden bars are attached to them. Various fastener options can be used, depending on the method of fastening the lining. Keep in mind that there should be good ventilation between the bars. Near door and window openings, the bars must be fixed vertically with an indent of 25 mm from the edges.

It is important to know: the first row of the frame should begin with longer bars, short ones are attached to the next row. The entire frame must be in the same plane. When installing, keep an eye on each row. In the case of a large drop, a material is laid under the bar, which acts as a gasket.

Stage 3: laying thermal insulation

Before the final lining of the bath with clapboard, thermal insulation must be laid under it. It must be laid between wooden bars. Many are accustomed to using mineral wool as a heat insulator. It is worth knowing that this type of insulation does not cope with high levels of humidity. It is recommended to pay attention to foam glass. This thermal insulator has good moisture repellency and copes well with heat retention. At the same time, foam glass is completely harmless to humans. In addition, vapor barrier material does not need to be laid on top of it. But if in doubt, you can use this type of insulator. It is glued on with adhesive tape.

Stage 4: attaching lining

Starting to sheath the bath from the inside, it is necessary to cut the lining. After that, you should cut off the spike at the first segment and place it in the right place.

The final stage - applying an antiseptic

Sheathing should start from the side of the corner. For strengthening, it is recommended to use clamps. First, they must be driven into the groove of the segment, and then installed in the frame. Each subsequent segment is superimposed on a part of the previous one and is also driven in.

At the end of the finishing work, it is necessary to apply a protective layer on the lining segments. To do this, use oil mixtures or wax. Caring for lining lining requires special care. Solvents and abrasives must be avoided.

Advice from the master!

If the segment is severely damaged, it is necessary to change it. Do not forget to periodically update the protective layer on the surface of the lining. You can evaluate the finished bath, lined with clapboard, by examining the presented photos.

Clapboard wall cladding

Preparatory stage

Instructions for laying tiles in the bath

Finishing the steam room

Bathroom upholstery

Arrangement of the rest room

Interior decoration of the bath - what is used besides lining?

What is better to sheathe inside the bath?

What should be considered when choosing a lining for a bath?

Wooden cladding for a bath

What else can sheathe the bath from the inside?

We sheathe the bath with a wooden clapboard from the inside

Types of lining and classification

Pros and cons of lining

Methods for attaching the lining to the wall

The technology of performing work on the lining of the bath

Lining for a bath

Block house for a bath

Magelan

How to sheathe a bath inside: beautiful and inexpensive

Characteristics of a log cabin

Features of modern baths

How to choose the right lining for sheathing

Basics of lining installation

Washing room: the choice of material for finishing

The nuances of finishing a fresh log house with the effect of precipitation

The better to sheathe your bath inside

The advantages of using lining in the bath

Types of wood for finishing

Lining mounting options

Installing lining in the bath

How can I sheathe a bath inside except lining

Work order

Floor arrangement

Bath wall decoration

Ceiling finish

Room decoration

Choosing the Right Material

What wood should be chosen for a bath?

Steam room decoration

Floor covering: wood or ceramic?

Wooden floor finish

Finishing floors with ceramic tiles

Price

Conclusion

How to sheathe a bath from the inside - how to choose a material

Briefly about the purpose of the skin

Lining for a bath

Block house for a bath

Magelan

Bath cladding inside clapboard

The wagon is…

Choosing lining for sheathing

Marking and technical requirements

Video - How to choose lining

We calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe inner lining

Choose the method of mounting the lining

Installation of lining

Video - Insulation of the walls of the bath

Video - Ventilation in the steam room

Video - Installation of lining on the ceiling

Mounting lining on the wall

Video - Lathing of the steam room

Video - Finishing the steam room

How to sheathe a steam room in a bath - how to choose the right wood

The choice of finishing material

Requirements for the material for sheathing the steam room

Interior arrangement of the steam room

The nuances of the interior decoration of the steam room

Bath sheathing inside: material selection and installation

What material should be chosen for the interior decoration of the bath

Linden lining installation

Step 1. Preparation

Step 2. Lathing

Step 3. Warming and vapor barrier

Step 4. Sheathing the walls and ceiling of the bath with clapboard

Step 5. Surface treatment

Dye

Wood impregnation solutions

Special lacquers

We calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe inner lining