To the bath, how to equip it, why certain problems arise during its operation - these questions often baffle those who encounter them, and this is understandable, many of them cannot be solved without professional advice so let's discuss them together.
The sauna stove smokes, we clean the chimney regularly (almost once a month), but it quickly clogs, and tarry deposits form on it. How to deal with it?
This is due to an insufficient system for providing air supply to the furnace, which entails an insufficient combustion temperature of firewood. Such a problem occurs with stoves with a long burning period: a small firebox cannot generate the desired temperature and all heavy fractions form an oily coating in the firebox and chimney.
To solve it, you need to lengthen the chimney by 50-70 cm and clean the air supply system to the furnace. If you have a factory-made stove, you need to drill three or four holes with a diameter of 12 mm in the lower edge of the firebox near the blower.
Take dry firewood (better hardwoods, but not birch) and maintain the maximum combustion temperature in the firebox for half an hour. Do this on a rainy day or winter time, because resinous compounds, when burnt out, can form a fiery stream in those places where formations have accumulated (pipe, chimneys, etc.). There are times when a column of flame up to one and a half meters high bursts out of the pipe during this procedure.
A heat exchanger is built into the iron stoves for a bath to heat water, can it be used as a heater for a floor heating system, and a tank with hot water take it up the chimney?
Of course, such a system can be mounted, but keep in mind that the stove should be 20-25% more powerful than it would be necessary for the volume of your room. In addition, it will be necessary to provide a forced air supply system during kindling.
Also keep in mind that if you want to increase the proportion of heat coming from burning wood to heat the underfloor heating system, this will entail more wood consumption and overheating of the firebox walls. If you want to put a tank on the pipe, then this system will interfere with the removal of gases into the chimney at the moment the furnace is ignited.
The brick oven for a bath does not heat up well. Tell me, what could be the reason?
To begin with, we want to draw your attention to the fact that a brick oven in a bathhouse requires a longer heating period, but the specific heat capacity of a brick is greater, and it keeps heat longer. Therefore, a bath with a brick oven must be heated for several hours longer than with an iron one.
If you are doing everything right and the furnace still does not heat up well, then the cause here may be excessively thick walls of the furnace or a direct-flow exhaust system.
See how the firebox is arranged in the furnace. From the side of the steam room, it should be laid out in a “half-brick” (thicker walls do not warm up). Pay attention to how the chimney is arranged. If it is straight-through, then the firewood will “fly into the pipe” almost literally.
The air jet from the furnace must give up part of its heat to the walls of the furnace; for this, passages along the walls of the furnace are structurally laid in the chimney cut. The temperature of the smoke at the outlet of the furnace reaches 350-400 degrees, and at the outlet of the chimney no more than 50-80 degrees (this is the norm). All the heat goes to heat the brick oven. If there are errors in the masonry, call the stove-maker.
I can not decide which stove to put in the bath. Some advise an iron stove, others a brick stove for a bath. Tell me which one is better to choose?
It all depends on how often and for how long you will use the bath. If trips to the bath are episodic and not long, then the use of an iron stove would be ideal. Its advantage is that it quickly heats up the room, but it also cools down quickly. If you are a connoisseur of the bath and a trip to it lasts several hours for you, then in this case a brick sauna stove will be an ideal option.
The heat capacity of a brick is high and it is able to give off the accumulated heat up to 12 hours. In addition, a brick oven can absorb excess moisture in the room and create a better microclimate for bath procedures.
Minus such sauna stove is a large number of firewood, longer burning time and stove size. The advantages include a more even temperature in the bath, a long period of operation and a microclimate close to natural.
Baths of large sizes are made under a brick oven, for iron furnaces- the size of the bath is planned to be smaller. In addition, do not forget that if the iron stove fails, then it will be much easier to dismantle and replace it than a brick one.
The iron stove for a bath heats up the wall of the log house very much, what should I do?
To avoid this, it is necessary to overlay the oven with a brick "apron". The apron is laid out in a "half-brick" at a distance of 15-20 cm from the bath wall.
In addition, at a distance of 3-5 cm from the wall of the log house, a heat-insulating “sandwich” is attached, which is made of a combination of a heat-insulating mat, a dense surface and a reflective layer.
Here, all air gaps play the role of convection chambers, which force air to circulate and thereby cool the surface, preventing it from overheating and catching fire.
The iron sauna stove heats up the steam room very quickly, and the water in the tank is barely warm (the tank is mounted on the chimney), why is this happening and what should I do?
Most likely, for your steam room you use a sauna stove with excessive power with increased heat dissipation. That is why the volume of the steam room has time to heat up faster than the water in the tank.
Try reducing the volume of stones in the heater by 1/3, which will reduce the heat output of the stove, or reduce the volume of the tank by a third to hot water.
Try also when heating the sauna stove to keep the intensity of the flame at half from the maximum until the water is heated to the desired temperature. This will make it possible not to overheat the stones and at the same time the water will have time to heat up to 75 degrees.
How to air dry the floor using a brick sauna stove. The fact is that the floor does not have time to dry after washing and an unpleasant smell arises in the bath.
It is very effective in this case, when laying a brick sauna stove, to install 3-4 pipes Ø 45-52 mm one row above the firebox, preferably in the chimney. One end should be tightly welded, and the other should be brought out below the level of the wooden flooring. The hot air flow from the pipe will dry the wood floor.
Attention! The pipes should not be in the furnace, in which case they will glow and there is a high probability of getting burned from the flow of hot air.
We hope that our advice will help you solve the emerging issues related to the stove in the bath, and by solving them, you will be able to take a steam bath with pleasure, without being distracted by any problems.
A feature of modern bath stoves is their heating temperature, which can reach 400 degrees. An important indicator of furnace efficiency is instant heating enclosures and maximum heat dissipation.
The entire heating process is accompanied by the release of infrared radiation, which is distributed on the surfaces adjacent to the furnace. Under the influence of high temperature regime the wooden structure of the bath can char or ignite.
That is why it is so important to ensure reliable insulation of wooden surfaces from the heat of the furnace. For this, a protective screen and sheathing made of refractory materials are suitable.
When is thermal protection required?
An urgent need to install additional protection elements arises in cases of non-compliance with fire safe distance between the oven and adjacent surfaces.
At an unsafe distance, the infrared radiation emitted during the kindling of sauna stoves hits the walls and is not scattered. This leads to damage to wooden surfaces or a fire hazard in general.
The safe distance between the wall and the heating structure depends on the material from which it is made:
So the distance from the wall to the furnace:
- from brick - is 35 cm;
- from metal (without interior decoration) - 100 cm;
- metal (with interior decoration brick or fireclay tiles) - up to 70 cm.
In small rooms where it is not possible to maintain a safe distance from the wall to the stove, it is more rational to install a protective screen or sheathing.
Protective thermal screens
As the main protection of the walls of the bath, heat-resistant screens are used - special insulation shields to cover the side surfaces of the stove and reduce the intensity of the propagation of IR radiation in the room.
Screens are divided into two categories: metal and brick.
metal
Protective screen made of steel or cast iron sheets. It is mounted around the perimeter of the sauna stove, while maintaining small technological gaps (3-5 cm) between the screen and outer walls heating structure to provide additional air convection.
Depending on the characteristics of the walls of the bath and the type of furnace, metal screens can be front and side. Some Models metal furnaces produced with an additional protective cover, which is installed during the installation of the firebox.
Installation of metal screens is carried out using adjustable legs with fixation to flooring bolts. In addition, the legs allow for clearance at the bottom of the structure for additional ventilation. To increase the service life, the screens are covered with a refractory coloring layer.
Advantages:
- decrease in the intensity of IR rays;
- improvement of air convection between the furnace walls and the screen;
- reduction in the overall heating temperature of the outer walls of the heating structure.
brick
A protective screen made of bricks is designed to protect the walls of the sauna stove.
Laying is carried out in ½ bricks around the perimeter in compliance with technological gaps of 6 cm. Bottom part The structure is equipped with additional air ducts at a distance of 2.5 cm from each other.
For arranging a brick screen for furnaces, a heat-resistant fireclay brick without voids. As a connecting mixture - a thick mortar of cement or clay.
Finished screen walls should be 22–25 cm higher than the wall of the heating structure.
Advantages:
- low thermal conductivity of the material from which the screen is made;
- resistance to high humidity and high temperatures;
- prolonged accumulation of heat in the room;
- getting soft heat from the oven.
Protective wall claddings
For the arrangement of thermal protection of the walls of the bath, special sheathing made of refractory materials is provided. They prevent overheating of surfaces and reduce the likelihood of a fire in the room.
Important! The height of the sheathing must exceed the height of the walls of the heating structure by 120 cm. The distance between the bath walls and the sheathing is at least 3 cm. To ensure air convection, technological gaps are provided at the top and bottom of the sheathing.
Sheathing - reflectors
This version of the protection of the walls of the bath consists of sheets of metal and a heat-resistant layer of thermal insulation. First, a heat-insulating layer is attached, a sheet of metal with a polished surface is mounted on top of it.
It is non-combustible insulation that provides effective reflection of thermal energy from wooden surfaces, reducing their heating.
Important! The sheet reflector contributes to a softer heat, which is easily perceived by the human body.
As a heat-insulating layer is used:
- Basalt wool. Ecological and safe material, characterized by high thermal insulation, hygroscopic and refractory characteristics.
- Basalt fiber boards. material with good sound and thermal insulation properties. In addition, it is resistant to fire and decay.
- Asbestos boards. A material that is wear-resistant, impact-resistant and fire-resistant.
- Minerite panels. A popular refractory material that provides structures reliable protection from overheating and possible ignition.
Heat-resistant ceramic bushings are used to fasten such a skin. If there is a minimum safe distance from the walls of the bath to the sheathing, a double layer of thermal insulation is installed.
Cladding with facing surface
If it is necessary to comply with the general style of the room, for protective skins can use decorative trim.
The most common Decoration Materials for thermal sheathing:
- Terracotta (tile). Wear-resistant material made from natural clay rock by firing. It features high wear resistance, durability, practicality and resistance to high temperatures. Terracotta is matte and glazed.
- Clinker (tile). The refractory material is made from clay, different high density. Outwardly, it resembles a brick for cladding.
- Tiles (tiles). modern material, the front surface of which is represented by a textured pattern, ornament or texture.
- Talcochlorite. Pure rock with a characteristic shade of gray or green. The material is characterized by impact resistance, wear resistance, heat resistance, durability and low hygroscopicity.
- Porcelain slabs. Impact and heat resistant facing material. The textured surface of the tile allows you to imitate other natural materials- stone, wood, brick.
Installation of refractory cladding in the steam room is carried out on a thermally insulating base using special heat-resistant solutions. Finished skin has the following form: a wooden surface - a technological gap (3 cm) - a refractory base - a facing tile.
The following materials can be used as a refractory base:
- Heat-resistant plasterboard panels with the addition of fiberglass. They are resistant to deformation, damage and impact. high temperatures.
- Glass-magnesium panels based on glass fibers and magnesia component. They have sound and thermal insulation characteristics, resistant to decay, high moisture and temperature extremes.
- Boards based on cement and natural mineralite fiber. Such a base is resistant to fire, decay and high moisture.
Any heat-resistant wall panels should have a minimum clearance to allow ventilation and reduce heat exposure to wood surfaces. Practical cladding will allow you to decorate the walls of the steam room in the same style.
Chimney problems
How would I test the chimneys. Program.
1.
measurements in three points- at the outlet of the furnace (boiler, engine), at the outlet of the pipe and somewhere in the middle.
2.
Make a table of all options for temperatures at the outlet of different heat units - from 100C to 900C.
3.
PPU ( ceiling duct, fire-fighting unit) - in fact, this is a shortened shaft for laying chimneys, as recommended, for example, f. Shidel. They lay a shaft from the ceiling to the exit through the roof and air is drawn in it, cooling the chimney. Mine prevents heating attic space. This option is needed for the chimney of a sauna stove, because. it gets very hot. And for hot water boilers (heating or hot water supply), on the contrary, it is necessary to insulate the chimney, i.e. use sandwich.
1) do not heat combustible materials in the steam room above 50C;
2) do not send combustion products heated above 400C to the chimney;
3) to make the atmosphere in the steam room health-improving for a person, and not destructive in the presence of hard IR, high temperature and lack of oxygen.
4) to harmonize the norms of GOST and the Code of Rules of the Ministry of Emergency Situations with reality in the Russian steam room.
characteristic temperature ranges.
A. 600-900С (chimney inlet and outlet temperatures) technological nonsense for household stoves. This is the lack of heat recovery. Trying to use space technology to ensure heat resistance and heat resistance, thermal insulation is used as a fire-resistant material. Fighting the destructive power of fire - a heat-resistant heat-resistant chimney (stainless steel, ceramics, vermiculite) in a ventilated mine is suitable.
B. 600 - 400C - top reasonable allowable limits for household stoves - chimneys according to paragraph A. and brick are suitable.
B. 400-200C is a common practice for brick heating (cooking) stoves. It is necessary to ensure resistance to the effects of heating and the formation of condensate (atmospheric, if the furnace is used periodically - it is heated and cooled to outdoor temperatures). Usually use brick chimneys, chimneys according to paragraph A are suitable, but they are more expensive than brick ones. Asbestos-cement pipes are allowed up to 300C.
G. 60-200C - heating boilers, acid condensate control. For chimneys, ceramics, asbestos-cement pipes, acid-resistant steel (stainless steel) are used. From item A, only vermiculite is suitable.
Discussions "what bath oven temperature” or about the temperature around the stove in the steam room - a lot. Unfortunately, all of them are conducted on an intuitive level and only a few experts devote entire studies to this issue using pyrometers, thermometers and other equipment. How does the temperature of the sauna stove and the steam room really differ from the one that the thermometer shows us?
Bath lovers are not builders and for the most part they coordinate the oven modes with their feelings. The other half of the bathers glance at the thermometer. I decided to find out what is the difference between our perceptions, between the data of the arrow of a universal thermometer and what a remote digital temperature meter will show us.
Some of the temperature measurement data puzzled me, which I wrote about in the conclusions after the video.
By and large, we are not interested in the temperature of the furnace, but in the conditions in the steam room. Your skin is more expensive than the cover of a piece of iron. Therefore, I measured everything where I shot the laser pointer of the device. I wanted to make temperature measurements with a diagram, but decided to make a video with remarks. Attention! I used a device with a maximum measurement threshold of 330 degrees (frames in the furnace furnace)
Furnace temperature measurement. Video
The temperature of the furnace in the bath. Conclusions:
- in a steam room that is only heating up, the temperature of the walls is always lower than the air temperature;
- do not worry about the fact that you covered the floor acrylic varnish- it is almost always cold and does not heat up above 40 degrees;
- the arrow of the thermometer reacts very slowly to temperature fluctuations, because it integrally shows the temperature with the radiation of the body of the thermometer itself and the walls;
- the mesh-heater in the lower part is most thermally loaded, if combustion is not allowed in the chimney itself, then it does not heat up more than 200 degrees !;
- the convector casing heats up more slowly than all other parts of the furnace due to the strong flow of cold air from the floor to the top of the furnace;
- in summer period the time when it takes 50 minutes to warm up the steam room to 85 degrees - IT IS IMPOSSIBLE to get a hot stone, use a steam generator or
- in steam rooms with pouring floors - the floors are colder than in dry steam rooms - they must be dried thoroughly;
- the outer screen of the sandwich pipe heats up to a greater extent from the air temperature, and not through the heat insulator inside!
- the metal parts of the stove and the stove mesh are higher than the rest of the parts - the metal heats up faster
Of course, bath oven temperature depends on hundreds of factors that are very different in all baths, not to mention weather, draft, etc.
Well, the log house has been built, and it seems that the main part of the work has already been done, a little more, and we will wave brooms selflessly ...
However, I will disappoint the hasty! Bath work is just beginning. After all, the Russian Bath is not exactly the material of the walls and the cost of finishing, Russian Banya is, first of all, a sauna stove!
The oven is the heart of the bath! I do not know who is the author of this phrase, but it brightly highlights the essence of the sauna stove.
Let's decide which stove can turn our four walls into a real Russian Banya. Let's drop all the advertising scales, call for help common sense, thermodynamic calculations and the experience of our ancestors. So let's go!
What mandatory functions should the oven perform in a separate standing bath?
1. Provide comfortable temperature - humidity regime in the steam room and others bath rooms at any time of the year.
2. Have sufficient heat storage capacity of the heater to ensure comfortable steaming for your family and guests (enough steam for 12 - 15 people).
3. Have sufficient power to quickly bring the steam room to the mode after airing (after each entry into the steam room).
4. Have sufficient heat capacity to dry all the premises of the bath for a day or two after the bath day.
5. Should prepare 150 - 200 liters of hot water (80 - 90°C) if needed.
Let's consider these points in more detail.
1. The sauna stove should provide a comfortable temperature and humidity regime in the steam room and other sauna rooms.
Temperature and humidity conditions in the steam room:Finnish researchers in the 70s of the last century proved that the comfortable temperature range in the steam room is from 40°C to 65°C. At these temperatures, a person and his body feel great.
Relative Humidity- from 60 to 40%. If desired, the humidity can be increased. But not the temperature!
The "Methodological recommendations for the design of baths and bath-health complexes" indicate the temperature in the steam room 40 ° C. This is the temperature in the steam room after the end of the furnace. During vaping, the temperature rises to 60-65°C
The same researchers proved that the temperature in the steam room over 100°C is DANGEROUS TO LIFE, as it provokes the development of oncological diseases of the respiratory tract and skin.
Here we are faced with the first problem of the sauna stove. We need to heat the heater weighing 300 - 350kg (calculation see below) red hot (550 - 600°C) . This will take 2.5 - 3 hours. And during this time the temperature in the steam room should not rise above 30 - 40 ° C. (Kamenka is a material that heats up during the heating of the stove and is intended for vaporization - turning water into steam, which is poured onto the stove during the soaring process.)
Obviously, it is possible to heat a heater weighing 300 - 350 kg without heating the steam room to high temperatures only if the stove has thick walls with low thermal conductivity.
If you heat such a mass of stones in an unlined metal furnace, then in 2.5 hours the steam room will heat up to 130 degrees!
Temperature conditions in other bath rooms:At soapy 30°C.
In the locker room 25°C .
In showers 25°C.
In the rest rooms 22°C.
2. The sauna stove must have sufficient heat storage capacity of the heater to ensure comfortable steaming for your family and guests.
In other words, a couple should be enough for 12 - 15 people.
We will calculate the required mass of stones, which can ensure the fulfillment of the task.
Calculation of the mass of the stone.
We have a stove with direct heating of the heater, smoke and heat goes through the stones, which allows them to be heated relatively quickly (2.5 - 3 hours) to the soot burning temperature - 550 - 600 ° C (red-hot).
12 - 15 people will steam for about 4 hours (the capacity of the family bath steam room is 4 people - one run). Taking into account ventilation (5 times per hour), the consumption of hot water (70 degrees) for vaporization will be approximately 10 liters per hour.
Let's find the amount of heat that must be expended when converting 40 liters of water at a temperature of 70 ° C into superheated steam at a temperature of 110 ° C.
Initial data:
Mass of water M = 40kg.
Initial water temperature T1 = 70 °C.
Final steam temperature T2 = 110 °C.
Initial temperature of the heater -Tk1 = 550 °C.
The final temperature of the heater is Tk2 = 200 °C.
The specific heat capacity of stones is Scam = 0.84 kJ/kg °C.
Specific heat capacity of water St = 4.2 kJ/kg °C.
The specific heat of evaporation of water at a temperature of 100 degrees Lv \u003d 2260 kJ / kg.
Specific heat capacity of steam Sp = 1.5 kJ/kg °C.
The amount of heat required to heat 40 liters of water from 70°C to 100°C.
Qload \u003d Sv M (Tboil-T1) \u003d 4.2 40 30 \u003d 5040 kJ;
The amount of heat required to evaporate 40 liters of water at 100 °C.
Qtest \u003d L M \u003d 2260 40 \u003d 90400 kJ;
The amount of heat required to heat 40 kilograms of steam from 100°C to 110°C.
Qsteam \u003d C M (T2-Tboil) \u003d 1.5 40 10 \u003d 600 kJ;
Then the total amount of heat that needs to be expended to convert 40 liters of water at a temperature of 70 ° C into superheated steam at a temperature of 110 ° C will be:
Q = Qload + Qsp + Qsteam = 5040 + 90400 + 600 = 96040kJ;
So, the total amount of heat for vaporization is 96040 kJ.
Let's find the number of stones that, cooling from 550 to 200 degrees, will release the found amount of heat - 96040 kJ.
The heat capacity of stones is Scam = 0.84 kJ / kg ° C, one kg of stones, cooling from 550 to 200 degrees, will release the amount of heat:
Qkam1kg \u003d 0.84 1 350 \u003d 294 kJ
Then the total number of stones will be:
M kam \u003d Q / Q kam1kg \u003d 96040/294 \u003d 326 kg.
The weight of the heater, which provides comfortable soaring for 12-15 people, is 326 kg.
By the way, given that the volume of the steam room of a family bath is approximately 12m³, the calculation approximately corresponds to the data given in some sources - 30-35 kg stones per one cubic meter steam rooms.
Obviously, a sauna stove cannot be small, as 326 kg of stones will take up a lot of space.
If a smaller number of people are constantly steaming in the sauna, then the weight of the heater can be proportionally reduced.
3. The sauna stove must have sufficient power to quickly bring the steam room into operation after ventilation.
It is advisable to ventilate the steam room after each entry.
This paragraph is related to paragraph 2. In general, the power of the furnace depends on the weight of the stones (heater) and the temperature of their heating.
If our oven is a brick oven with direct heating of stones (when burning, smoke and heat pass through the heater), then with the weight of the heater calculated in paragraph 2 and a temperature of 550 - 600 degrees, such a furnace turns out to be the most powerful.
If our oven is a brick oven with indirect heating stones (when burning, smoke and heat heat a metal sheet, on which the heater is laid out), then with the mass of the heater calculated in paragraph 2, the furnace is almost two times less in power than the first one due to the fact that it is problematic to heat stones above 400 degrees in such a furnace. If we like to steam intensively, then with such an oven the process is delayed for a long time, since after each entry we have to wait for the stones to heat up again. Such furnaces are continuous, i.e. drown them in the process of soaring. The use of such stoves makes sense only in public baths.
Despite the ongoing advertising hype around metal stoves, I do not take them into account at all, because due to their thinness, low power (the maximum filling of stones is 100 kg), they can only be considered as training equipment for beginners, and not for long, so how a beginner will cease to be such after two or three months of a weekly visit to the steam room. In addition, a metal stove will not be able to heat or dry a free-standing bath in the cold season.
4. The sauna stove must have sufficient heat capacity to dry all the rooms of the bath within a day or two after the bath day.
This is a very serious issue, which at first almost no one pays attention to.
And absolutely in vain!
If you do not regularly dry your bath, then after a year mold, fungus will appear in the bath, rotting processes will begin. wooden structures. And in a year, not only steaming in your bathhouse, but even just being in it will be harmful to health, since all these processes emit a huge amount of harmful substances. As the unfortunate victims of iron-stove marketing admit, in a year a board 6 cm thick turns into dust. And the worst thing is that it is almost impossible to fight all this muck, after it has developed.
In Runet, there are a lot of proposals for protecting a tree in a bath with various chemicals. However, I would categorically not recommend using antiseptics in the bath! Antiseptics are pesticides, the vapors of which are easily absorbed through the skin in the bath and safely enter your bloodstream. The blood carries these poisons to every cell in your body. It seems to me that comments are unnecessary!
The only harmless cure for mold, fungus, decay processes is the timely drying of wooden structures. If the moisture content of wood is less than 19%, then infection does not threaten it. Therefore, take care of honor from a young age, and a sushi bath all the time.
Let's roughly estimate how much mass the oven should have in order to dry a bath with an area of 20 - 25 m² during the winter in a day.
Calculation of the mass of the furnace.
Initial data:
1. Practice shows that during the first day in winter, the outer surface cools down by 60 degrees - from 90 to 40 degrees, the inner surface by 300 degrees - from 450 to 150 degrees. We take the average cooling temperature as the arithmetic mean - 105 ° C.
Heat capacity of brick - Skirp = 0.92 kJ/kg °C.
2. During soaring, 40 liters of water are consumed. The steam obtained from it is partially absorbed by the wood of the walls and ceiling (approximately 40%), and partially leaves through the ventilation. When using the shower, when washing, the water splashes and is also absorbed wooden surfaces- about 5 liters more. So, the total amount of water that we need to dry for this day will be approximately 20 liters. Specific heat of vaporization of water at a temperature of 30 degrees
Lv = 2428kJ/kg.
3. In the cold season, heat losses through walls, ceiling, floor are high. Let's calculate them.
General heat loss:
Qtot = Qwall + Qceiling + Qfloor + Qwindows, doors;
Let's consider each component separately.
Heat loss through walls:
Qwall \u003d Fwall (Tint - Tnar) λ / Dwall;
where,
Qwall - heat loss through the walls;
Fwall - wall area;
Tin - Tout - difference between indoor and outdoor temperature (Tin = 30°C; Tout = minus 20°C);
λ is the thermal conductivity of the walls ( λpine = 0.15 W/m² °C)
Dwall - average wall thickness;
Qwall \u003d 44 50 0.15 / 0.2 \u003d 1650 W;
Heat loss through the ceiling:
Qceiling \u003d 0.9 F ceiling (Tin - Tnar) λ / D ceiling;
where,
Qceiling - heat loss through the ceiling;
0.90 - correction factor for the attic roof.
Fceiling - ceiling area;
Tin - Tout - difference between indoor and outdoor temperature (Tin = 30°C; Tout = minus 20°C);
λ - thermal conductivity of the insulation (λ mineral wool = 0.05 W/m² °C)
Dceiling - the thickness of the insulation;
Qceiling \u003d 0.9 25 50 0.05 / 0.18 \u003d 312 W;
In fact, the heat loss will be slightly less, since in order to simplify the calculations, we do not take into account the ceiling boards and the attic floor.
Heat loss through the floor:
Qpol \u003d Fpol · (Tint - Tnar) λ / Dpol;
where,
Qfloor - heat loss through the floor;
Ffloor - floor area;
Tin - Tout - difference between indoor and outdoor temperature (Tin = 30°C; Tout = 5°C);
λ - insulation (λ foam plastic = 0.05 W/m² °C)
Dfloor - the thickness of the floor insulation;
Qpol \u003d 25 25 0.05 / 0.05 \u003d 625 W;
Heat loss through doors and windows:
Qwindows, doors - heat losses through windows and doors, Qwindows, doors = 220W;
Then
General heat loss:
Qtotal \u003d 1650 + 312 + 625 + 220 \u003d 2807 watts.
Converting to kJ, we have: 10 105 kJ;
Then,
The total daily heat loss will be Qtotal per day = 10 105 24 = 242 520 kJ;
The method for calculating the heat loss of a building was taken according to SNiP 2.04.05-91 "Heating, ventilation and air conditioning" Appendix 9. Thermal conductivity coefficients building materials taken according to SNiP 2-3-79 "Construction heating engineering" Appendix 3.
To evaporate 20 liters of water at a temperature of 30 degrees, you need to spend:
Q test \u003d L M \u003d 2428 20 \u003d 48 560 kJ;
Then total heat required to compensate for heat loss and dry the bathhouse premises per day will be:
Q \u003d Q test + Qtot \u003d 242 520 + 48 560 \u003d 291 080 kJ
1 kg of brick when cooled by 105 degrees emits:
Q kirp \u003d C M (T2-T1) \u003d 0.92 1 105 \u003d 96.6 kJ
The required number of bricks:
M brick \u003d Q / Q brick \u003d 291 080 / 96.6 \u003d 3013 kg;
To dry a free-standing bath in the winter season with an area of 20-25 m², 3013 kg of bricks = 860 bricks are needed.
Obviously, only a massive brick oven can dry all the rooms of the bath in the cold season.
Convinced of the inability of metal stoves to organize a normal bath, craftsmen cover them with stone or brick (sarcophagus) or make a brick shield to accumulate heat that goes into the chimney. It takes about 200 bricks to make a sarcophagus or shield, which is approximately 700 kg.
However, this amount is clearly not enough to dry the bath.
5. The sauna stove should, if necessary, prepare 150-200 liters of hot water (90-95 degrees).
Recently, the trend of preparing hot water using electric water heaters. It is simple, cheap, allows you to organize a warm shower without any problems.
If there is no electricity or running water in the bath, then the preparation of hot water is carried out by circulating water through a special pipe (register), which is located in the chimney (chimney) of the furnace. The register is connected to a hot water tank, which is located in the washing room. Cold water located nearby in another container (in another tap).
So, all the mandatory functions that the oven must perform in a free-standing bath are considered in detail. In order to resolve some contentious issues thermodynamic calculations are made.
Based on the above, I am forced to conclude:
Organize a Russian Bath, create healthy, beneficial for the body, comfortable conditions only a brick stove with direct heating of the heater will be able to take bath procedures.
Any avid vaper will confirm my conclusions based on personal experience.
We are still operating in Belarus public baths. For example, in our city of 100,000, there are three public baths with brick ovens direct heating, the weight of the stone backfill is several tons. Therefore, we can compare and draw conclusions.
And at the same time, in many regions of Russia, people have not seen anything other than iron stoves, which means they have no idea what a real Russian Banya is. Paradox! Russia, the birthplace of the wonderful Russian Bath - in the power of iron ersatz - stoves! Indeed, there is no prophet in his own country!
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