Graduation:

• When grading inward (haircuts based on "Kare"), to give a rounded silhouette, the first strand is taken from the extreme hair of the lower occipital zone, clamped between the index and middle fingers, stretched along the neck and an even cut is made from the inside of the fingers. The second strand is clamped together with the first and cut 5-7 mm longer, while the strands are stretched and the fingers lie on the neck. The next strands, located above, are cut in the same way. As a result, the upper (covering) strand is several centimeters longer than the lowest strand. The ends of the strands will be bent inward. This method allows you to achieve a rounded haircut silhouette.

• When grading outward (haircut "False caret"), the first strand is cut in the same way as the method described above. The second strand is combed out together with the first, clamped between the index and middle fingers and pulled towards itself at a certain angle to the neck (for example, 30-45 degrees). The difference in the length of the first and subsequent strands depends on this angle. Each subsequent strand is cut flush with the previous strand, respecting the original angle. As a result, the upper (covering) strand is slightly shorter than the lowest strand. The ends of the strands are directed outward.

Tushevka- smooth transition from short to long hair. That is, the reception of reducing hair to nothing. To perform shading, you need to take the comb in your left hand so that the thumb is on the butt and the rest are on the teeth, insert it into a strand of the marginal hairline (for example, the lower occipital zone) and cut straight from the comb, leading it smoothly up. In this case, the teeth of the comb should be directed outward (in no case towards the head). To obtain a high-quality haircut (without steps and other irregularities), this operation must be repeated several times.

Hair removal on fingers- hair is cut to one length, the length of the control strand (haircuts based on "Italian"). When using this method, the strands are pinched between the index and middle fingers, pulled and cut. Cutting hair from the outside or from the inside of the palm depends on which area we are cutting. For example, when cutting the hair of the occipital zones, the palm is turned towards itself and the cut is made from the inside of the palm. And when cutting the parietal zone, the palm is facing the head and therefore the cut is made from the outside of the palm.

thinning- thinning strands. It is carried out with double-sided and one-sided thinning scissors, thinning razors, as well as ordinary scissors. Thinning gives the haircut splendor and volume. Sometimes, thanks to her, it is possible to hide minor haircut defects. Thinning makes the haircut lines smooth. Distinguish between near-end and root thinning.

End milling

a) Horizontal thinning: a strand of hair is taken, stretched with a free hand between the index and middle fingers, and then with thinning scissors, stepping back from the end of the strand, a part of it is cut across (3-5 mm maximum). When thinning the ends, splendor is created at the ends of the hair.
b) Vertical thinning: with your free hand, we reject the strand to the side by about 30 degrees, the thinning scissors should be held vertically, with the blade down. Do not be afraid to close the canvas to the end, because thanks to the slots on them, a small part of the hair is cut off. For example, when performing a bob haircut using vertical thinning, you can achieve a more rounded haircut silhouette.
c) Method "cloves": performed with ordinary scissors. The strand is stretched and cut off at the end with teeth about 0.5 cm high.
Root thinning: a strand stretched with fingers is cut with thinning scissors in several stages. The first haircut is done across the strand, starting from the base of the hair. The second one is about half way. The third is closer to the end of the strand. When using this method, the splendor of the hair at the roots is achieved.

edging: the final stage of the haircut. The edging gives the haircut a finished look. In short haircuts, it is performed on the bangs, temples, behind the ears, on the neck. In the lower occipital region, hair often grows differently. It happens that they grow asymmetrically, directed upwards or form vortices. Correct hair growth is considered when the hair grows evenly towards the neck, spreading over its entire back surface. When choosing a haircut that opens the lower occipital area, hair growth must be taken into account. The direction of the edging affects the final result of the work. For example, if you trim the bangs by cutting the strands from right to left (or vice versa), then a straight bang line will not work; bangs should be cut from the middle of the forehead to one side and from the edge of the bangs to the middle. Similarly, the edging of the hair strands in the lower occipital area is performed when cutting hair of medium length and long. Making out the length of the hair, you can offer the client a edging with a corner, an oval or even.

A woman's morning cannot do without a mirror. Looking at themselves from all sides, they pay a lot of attention to their hair. How beautiful are they? Is it time to cut the ends or, on the contrary, grow long hair? Many choose women's short haircut. The execution scheme can be simple or complex. Women even perform some types of haircuts on their own. But, of course, you can see by the hair whether the hands of the master worked with them or the hairstyle was done by an amateur. In the article, we will consider common haircut schemes. Having studied them, it is easier to choose the option that suits you.

Short haircuts: advantages and disadvantages

So, if a girl decides to make herself a short haircut, she obviously understands that:

• it is easy to care for her;
• styling is a simple matter;
• the image changes with styling;
• open neck area makes the image the sexiest;
• a short haircut makes a woman younger.

At the same time, deciding on it, you need to understand some disadvantages:

1. Hair must be dried after washing to avoid morning surprises.
2. If you then decide to grow long curls, then get ready for a certain period when you can’t do it, nor the required length yet.
3. You will have to cut your hair at the stylist often.
4. If a master of not very high qualification comes across, then the appearance, and with it the mood, will be lost for a long time.
5. Owners of very thick hair will get a head like a dandelion.
6. It is better to refuse a short hairstyle if the facial features are sharp.

Haircuts are tailored to the shape of the face. If this is not done, the effect may turn out to be far from expected. For example, the task of a stylist working with a client with a round face is to lengthen its lines. For this, different methods and rules are used.

1. At the crown, it is desirable to obtain layering. So the hair will rise, and the face will lengthen.
2. Direct parting in this case is excluded. Hair combed make a side parting or asymmetrical bangs.
3. Too short haircuts for this face shape are strictly prohibited.

But the caret in any form looks good.

Haircut schemes for also involve visual stretching. To do this, raise the line of the forehead. This is achieved by:

• oblique partings;
• various asymmetries;
• wavy strands;
• open ears.

But even thick, long and heavy bangs should be abandoned. The ideal option would be a voluminous haircut with ajar ears and no longer than the chin line.
For girls with a triangular face shape, volume is added just on the chin. They fit long or oblique bangs. Short and thick options are excluded. It is not recommended to make a high bouffant or a haircut that is too short, as this will only emphasize the shape of the triangle.

For long hair, it will stretch even more. The best option in this case would be haircut schemes, in which the face is neatly framed and the ears are covered. For this type, thick bangs will come in handy.

The most common types and patterns of women's haircuts

Today, a good stylist is able to create an individual image, combining classic techniques and haircut patterns with the use of modern technologies. However, you need to take the time to search to find such a worthy specialist who has a sense of style and understanding of your hair.

If such a master is found, then you just have to choose the general look of the hairstyle and trust the professional in all the nuances. Consider the most common haircuts today.

1. Bob is a classic short haircut for different face types. It fits in different ways, and this should be done every day.
2. Kare is suitable for all types of faces, with the exception of those with large features and round cheeks. If it is done professionally, then special styling is not required.
3. The cascade is characterized by a gradual transition from short to long strands. Here, a double or torn technique is used. The cascade looks great on the owners of oval faces.
4. Cessun frames the face with clear lines. Therefore, it is great for heavy smooth hair.

Always wash your hair before cutting. Therefore, if you are going to the hairdresser, there is no need to pre-wash. The master will do it for you.
Let's take a look at short haircuts step by step.

Bean

1. Clean, not yet dried hair is divided into four parts, attaching each with hairpins.
2. In the lower zone at the back of the head, a strand is combed along the growth line and, pulling it perpendicularly with two fingers (index and middle), cut off the hair.
3. So they continue, moving up along the horizontal parting. Strand by strand, alternately shorten the left and right sides.
4. After combing the curls in the parietal zone, cut them in the same way. The border should disappear with the processed strands.
5. Then they are determined with the length of the hair at the temples and cut the bangs. At the same time, the line of the cap is made perfectly even.
6. At the end, the bob haircut (the diagram shows this) acquires features of smoothness and softness. The effect is achieved by the hands of the master and thinning technique.

Kare

This haircut, unlike the previous one, is performed without pulling the strands. That is, the hair is left vertically, and the cut line is parallel to the floor. Consider the technique in stages.

1. First, two partings are made: one goes from the top of the head to the sides to the upper points of the ears, and the second - from the midline of the forehead to the neck. After that, another parting is made: from temple to temple.
2. In a similar way to the previous haircut, a strand is separated in the lower zone. But the cut is made strictly horizontal. This first strand is then guided when cutting.
3. The next part is taken half a centimeter higher and, pulling it down, they cut it two or three millimeters longer than the previous one. So continue until you reach a horizontal parting at the top.
4. In this zone, a strand is combed parallel to the parting from temple to temple and cut, focusing on the line behind. Curls are cut on both sides of the parting, which runs from the midline of the forehead to the neck.
5. The remaining hair is divided into two parts and cut, gradually lengthening.
6. Each strand that is processed is compared with the cut line.

Cascade

This type of haircut is similar to a square. However, the work here is being done in a different direction. The same length of hair is achieved when combed up. In this case, the control, as in the previous case, is a strand from the lower occipital zone.

Cessun

This haircut is in the shape of a semicircle. It can add extra volume to hair. Cessun is universal, meaning what suits young girls and older women in years. However, it is not recommended to choose chubby and chubby. It looks best on those with thick hair. It also looks beautiful with wavy curls. Cessun is a good solution for women who decide to rejuvenate. This haircut has a complex technique. The scheme consists of the following steps:

1. The curls are combed from the crown to the sides down. After that, they are separated by a vertical parting.
2. A horizontal parting separates which is then divided into two more parts, and the parietal zones are stabbed.
3. Select the central strand and cut off, making the desired length. It is further oriented.
4. The rest of the hair in this area is trimmed.
5. Having released the clamps, comb the strands and cut them in the same way as the base. The length will be slightly longer than the previous one.
6. Next, the parietal part is combed down, the curls for the bangs, the temporal part are separated and the bangs are cut below the eyebrow line.
7. Then the temporal zone is cut at an oblique angle.
8. Next, they provide a smooth transition by picking up curls from the side zones with bangs and trimming them.

Haircut is carried out without haste, as it is complex and requires a careful approach. But the result is a feminine, romantic and stylish look.

A few words about men's haircuts

To create male images, a typewriter is often used. But it is suitable only for those who prefer hair length up to five centimeters. The scheme of a male haircut is no simpler than a female one. Masters sometimes work wonders, emphasizing individual style. We list the most common men's haircuts:

1. Half box.
2. Boxing.
3. Tennis.
4. Hedgehog.
5. Bobrik.
6. Kare.
7. Garson.
8. Boxing ring.

Hairdressing: A Practical Guide Konstantinov Anatoly Vasilyevich

§ 26. Shearing operations

§ 26. Shearing operations

Let us consider in detail what each haircut operation is, what actions it consists of on the hair, and what is its originality.

Reducing hair to nothing. Reducing hair to nothing is a smooth, gradual change in the length of hair from the longest in the central areas (crown and occiput) to the shortest in the peripheral areas of the scalp along the edge of their growth in the temples and neck.

This operation can be performed with any cutting tool. But one machine does not always manage to get a fairly smooth transition in the length of the hair. The machine performs only "rough" processing, scissors are needed for final finishing. The combined use of a machine and scissors allows you to reduce the time to complete the operation.

Reducing hair to nothing using a machine and scissors can be done in two ways - without using a comb and with a comb.

The first way (without using a comb). This method is mainly used if it is required to process the hair from the edge of their growth on the neck only 2–3 cm upwards, i.e., to make a rather sharp transition from long hair to short hair that is acceptable for this operation.

Before starting the haircut, it is necessary to cover the visitor with special hairdressing underwear - a peignoir and a napkin. The client's chest and shoulders are covered with a peignoir, and a napkin is placed over the peignoir, tucking one of its edges under the collar of the visitor's clothes. Then the neck is powdered and a cotton cord is laid between the napkin and the neck so that the cut hair does not fall behind the collar.

To process the hair with a machine, they begin from the edge of their growth on the neck, gradually rising up to the back of the head. Moreover, given that scissors will be used after the machine, it is necessary to leave hair slightly longer than required on each treated area.

Taking the machine in your right hand, put it in its original position for cutting. In this case, the lower plate of the machine should be pressed to the skin only by its opposite side from the teeth (heel), and the teeth should be directed upwards at an angle of 10 - 20 ° relative to the surface of the treated area of ​​the head. The greater the angle of deflection of the teeth of the machine, the more abrupt the transition in the length of the hair can be achieved when cutting. To maintain the selected angle of inclination of the machine teeth to the treated area, it is necessary to move the machine parallel to the plane of its lower plate when cutting. Consequently, the lower plate of the clipper will touch the skin with the side opposite to the teeth (heel) only at the initial moment of cutting. And then, as the machine moves up towards the top of the head, it is gradually raised above the level of the treated area of ​​the head.

The expediency of starting a haircut from the border of hair growth on the neck along a line going up through the crown to the nose and dividing the scalp into two equal parts is due to the fact that in this case it is much more convenient to bring the hair on it symmetrically, i.e., to make the upper border the treated area of ​​hair close in shape to the bend of the hairline on the neck.

There is a certain relationship between the upper and lower boundaries of the hair treatment during this operation: the smaller the distance between the upper and lower boundaries of the hair treatment area, i.e., the sharper the transition from longer hair to shorter hair, the closer in shape should be the upper and lower border (Fig. 44). Therefore, in this case, the imaginary upper limit of the reduction of hair to nothing should practically repeat the shape of their growth line on the neck. The greater the smooth transition from the longest to the shortest hair, i.e., the greater the distance between the upper and lower borders of their processing, the higher the upper border of the processed hair, repeating, however, the characteristic curve of the edge of hair growth on the neck. Consequently, the upper border of the processed hair in the back of the head falls lower than its other parts, as if repeating the curve of the edge of hair growth on the neck, and is located just on the line that can be mentally drawn from the neck through the top of the head to the nose. Therefore, already when processing the first section of hair captured by the machine, it is necessary to bring the machine to the upper limit, thereby determining its height. The remaining sections of hair on the left and right should be cut in relation to the first section in such a way that the imaginary upper border of the processed hair is symmetrical to the hairline on the neck.

Rice. 44. The area of ​​​​treatment of hair when reducing them to nothing

The second way (using a comb) finds its main application in smoother than in the first method, reducing hair to nothing. It consists in the fact that a comb is placed under the teeth of the machine and the hair is cut along the plane of the comb. Therefore, the smoothness of the transition from long to short hair depends on the inclination of the comb to the surface of the treated area of ​​hair (Fig. 45).

In this case, the comb should be held in the left hand in the fourth way: the index finger is on the teeth, and the thumb is on the butt. Start cutting from the same sections of hair as when cutting in the first way. A comb is inserted into the hair at the edge of their growth on the neck, placed at the right angle to the surface of the treated area, and then the haircut is started with a machine.

The quality of the haircut with this technique depends on how evenly and simultaneously the comb and the machine will move up. It is impossible to allow a comb or a machine to be ahead of each other. If this condition is violated, uneven snatching of hair and other defects are possible. The sequence of processing sections of hair in this case is the same as in the first method of cutting.

After cutting hair with a machine, additional processing with scissors is necessary. This operation is the most responsible and difficult in the process of cutting. In this case, the correct possession of the comb is of great importance. She must be constantly on the move. With its help, in the process of cutting, small cut hair is combed out, hair is captured and lifted from the scalp, which is very important for a proper haircut.

Rice. 45. Reducing hair with a machine along the plane of the comb: a - the teeth of the comb are directed upwards, b - the teeth of the comb are directed downwards

Before starting the haircut, the teeth of the comb are inserted into the hair - at the edge of their growth on the neck (in the same area that was first cut by the machine), and then, moving the comb up against the hair growth, they begin to cut them with scissors. The scissors move up along with the comb, and their working blades cut the hair in a plane parallel to the comb. However, their position may change when processing different parts of the scalp.

There are a number of methods of working with scissors that allow you to perform the cutting operation after the machine with less time and correctly. For example, scissors do not always have to be parallel to the comb - sometimes they are located at an angle to it. In addition, the ends of the scissors do not have to be directed to the left, towards the left hand with the comb. Their direction may be opposite - it depends on which part of the scalp is currently being processed.

Depending on the length of the processed hair, you can use the ends of the working blades of the scissors, then their middle. So, the hair of the right side of the neck and behind the auricle is more expedient to process with the ends of the scissors, and they should be directed to the right (Fig. 46). The hair of the left side of the neck and behind the auricle, as well as at the right temple, is more expedient to process with the ends of the scissors, pointing them to the left and parallel to the comb.

For cutting very short hair, it is more convenient to use the ends of the scissors, since only the thin ends can be cut short. As the length of the hair increases, that is, when moving up, you should gradually move the scissors to the left or right (depending on the position) parallel to the comb so that their working blades cut off the hair with their middle part.

To ensure a smoother transition during the cutting process, it is necessary to operate not only with scissors, but also with a comb. The base of the comb teeth is much thicker than their ends, and this feature can also be used when cutting. Very short hair is treated only with the ends of the scissors and the ends of the teeth of the comb. As longer hair is processed, they are cut off by the middle part of the working blades of the scissors, bringing the middle part of the comb teeth under the scissors, etc.

Rice. 46. ​​Treatment of short hair on various parts of the neck with scissors and a comb: a, d - with the ends of the scissors and comb teeth, b, c - with the ends of the scissors at the base of the comb teeth

The operation of reducing hair to nothing can also be performed with a dangerous or safety razor. The specificity of a haircut in this way lies in the fact that hair thinning also occurs at the same time. Thus, a haircut with a razor combines two operations - hair reduction and thinning.

The process of cutting with a dangerous razor is built as follows. As always when cutting, the hair is pre-moistened with water or washed (if it is dirty). Then, longer hairs of the parietal and temporal areas of the scalp are separated with straight partings, which do not require processing when performing this operation. Thus, the desired section of hair is obtained for cutting from the line of their growth on the neck to the upper limit of their processing.

The line of the upper limit of the processing is chosen arbitrarily, depending on what transition in the length of the hair is to be obtained. As noted above, the smoother the transition is needed, the higher will be the boundary of their processing. After separating the section of hair to be cut with straight parting, comb the hair so that it is directed at an angle of about 45 ° to the vertical to the left and right. Such a combing technique is necessary in order to be able to cut in two crossing directions (Fig. 47): first in the direction of combing (left or right), and after cutting in one direction, comb the hair in the other direction at an angle of about 45 ° to the vertical and process them in the same way.

Cutting hair in the neck area with a razor in two crossing directions makes it possible to minimize excess hair pulling and get a more even cut. Taking a comb in the left hand, and an open razor in the right hand, hair processing begins from the upper border of the separated area, and from the place where the combed hair takes the direction. To do this, insert a comb into the hair at the very top of the treated area. Then, moving it in the direction of combing, start cutting with a razor.

Rice. 47. Movement of the razor and comb when cutting (shown by arrows)

The razor should be held at a very slight angle to the hair, i.e. almost flat, in order to cut only the topmost layer of the hair. The movements of the razor and comb should be light, without strong pressure and frequent. When the comb moves from the upper border of the treated area to the desired distance, the cut of the uppermost layer of hair with a razor begins. The comb must be removed from the hair and transferred through the razor to its original position.

In one movement, the razor should go on average 1.5 - 2 cm. As soon as the razor has passed this distance, you should stop cutting the hair. After stopping the razor, they begin to move the comb in the selected direction of combing the hair, and the razor is returned to its original position by moving it through the comb. When moving the comb down, small cut hair is combed out.

Thus, the operation of reducing hair to nothing with a razor consists in coordinated alternating movements with a razor and a comb (Fig. 48). During the working movement of the comb, the razor occupies its initial position, and during the working movement of the razor, the comb occupies the initial position; moreover, the razor and comb occupy the original position for work each time lower by 1.5 - 2 cm of the previous one. Therefore, after each movement with a razor and a comb, the hair treatment area is reduced by 1 - 1.5 cm.

Rice. 48. Reducing hair to nothing with a razor: a - dangerous, b - thinning

As you move the razor and comb down to the hairline on the neck, you should constantly increase the pressure on the razor. At the same time, the number of hair cut for each of its working strokes also increases. Such techniques achieve a gradual reduction in the length of the hair from the upper border of the treated area to the hairline on the neck.

After processing all the hair in one direction, comb it in the other direction and repeat the haircut in the same way. In this way, hair is cut at an angle of 45 ° to the vertical to the left and right.

To trim the ends of short hair in the neck area, they are cut by cutting. The comb is inserted into the hair from the line of their growth on the neck. Start moving the comb upwards against hair growth in the same way as when performing this operation with scissors. When the comb moves up, the hair rises, which makes it possible to see their length. Hairs, the length of which exceeds that required for a given area of ​​the scalp, are cut off with a razor.

To perform this operation, it is necessary that the razor be very sharp, and the movements of the razor should be sharp and short. When cutting hair, the razor blade is located at an angle of 15 - 20 ° to the comb, and the right hand with the razor moves parallel to the plane of the comb, that is, perpendicular to the direction of its teeth. This direction of movement of the right hand with a razor is most convenient, because

that the hair distributed between the teeth of the comb cannot deviate from the razor and is cut off with a sufficiently vigorous movement of it. Moving the comb up, you should cut off longer protruding hairs with sharp short movements of the razor. After processing the desired area of ​​​​hair in the neck with this technique, the operation of reducing the hair to nothing with a razor can be considered complete.

The technological process of cutting hair to nothing with a safety razor is almost no different from performing this operation with scissors, except that it takes a little more time. This is explained by the fact that the working part of a safety razor is smaller than a dangerous one, therefore, less hair is cut off for each working stroke. All movements of the safety razor and comb are the same as when cutting hair with a dangerous razor.

Tushevka- getting a smooth transition in the length of the hair from long to short. This operation is similar to the reduction of hair to nothing, but requires more careful execution. Shading is a very delicate operation. Even a slight violation of the gradual transition from long to short hair will lead to the fact that in some areas characteristic shades of hair will appear, indicating a poor-quality operation.

To perform the shading correctly, simple scissors should be used, with the thin ends of which it is possible to perform the operation very accurately. The sequence of processing each section of the scalp during shading is the same as when reducing the hair to nothing (Fig. 49).

thinning- creation of a natural ratio between long and short hair in the process of cutting on the entire scalp or on its individual sections.

As you know, the life of each hair is limited to a certain period of time. A new hair appears in place of the dead hair. Thus, the hairline of the human head is constantly updated; this explains the difference in hair length. This difference is a positive factor due to which the hairstyle lasts for a long time. Hair of the same length will be very monolithic, and the hairstyle will be heavy and unsightly. The hair will stretch under the weight of its mass and cannot retain the shape given with the help of curlers for a long time. Therefore, it is necessary to cut the hair in such a way that their length in each strand on any part of the scalp is different.

Rice. 49. Shading hair

This ratio in hair length is most easily achieved when cutting with a straight or safety razor, but scissors can also be used, although in the latter case it is much more difficult to achieve a natural ratio in hair length.

Consider the technological process of performing thinning with simple scissors of the temporal sections of the hair. Separate a small strand with vertical partings - it is more convenient to process such a strand with simple scissors. The base of the strand should look like a rectangle with sides of 2 - 3 and 4 - 5 cm, and the large sides of such a rectangle will be vertical. Then, grabbing a strand of hair intended for thinning between the middle and index fingers of the left hand, comb it thoroughly. After that, half-open scissors are brought to the strand from below so that the strand of hair is between their working canvases (Fig. 50).

The initial position of the scissors in relation to the strand is with the ends up. Hair thinning is carried out by the bases of the working blades of the scissors.

Before you start cutting, you need to determine what maximum length of hair you need to leave and, therefore, from which section in the strand to start cutting. Then, holding the drawn row of hair with the fingers of the left hand, they begin to smoothly squeeze the working blades of the scissors, while moving them towards the hair roots. It is impossible to close the scissors to the end, since the thinning is carried out only by the very bases of their working canvases. Therefore, while the scissors are slightly covered, it is necessary to move them to the hair roots at the required distance. Usually, with medium hair density, thinning is considered normal if it captures 1/3 of the length of the processed strand.

Rice. 50. Techniques for thinning hair with scissors in various parts of the scalp: a - parietal area, b - occipital area

After moving the scissors from the ends of the hair to the roots by about 1/3 of the length of the strand, you should open them and return them to their original position. To process the entire strand, several working movements of the scissors are required. When processing hair of medium density, for thinning a strand of the specified size, it is necessary to return the scissors to its original position 4-6 times.

From the consideration of the technological process of performing this operation, it can be seen that hair cutting is carried out during the compression of the working blades of the scissors and their simultaneous movement towards the roots, as a result of which the hair in one strand is cut at different lengths, which is the purpose of hair thinning.

When thinning with serrated scissors, a strand of hair is separated with a vertical, horizontal or any other parting. The dimensions of the strand are the same as when cutting with simple scissors.

The strand is taken with the index and thumb of the left hand and slightly pulled away from the scalp. After combing it, proceed to cutting with serrated scissors. The blades of the serrated scissors should grab the hair strand not perpendicular to it, but at about a 45° angle. This is a very important condition that must be observed. If you introduce blades of serrated scissors perpendicular to the strand, then it will contain a lot of hair cut at the same level, i.e., the same length. As a result, individual bundles of hair cut at the same level will stand out sharply, in the form of a "ladder", in the hairstyle - this is considered a marriage.

When the serrated scissors are inserted at an angle of approximately 45° to the strand, each tine of the scissors cuts off a certain group of hairs at different distances from their roots. In this case, even with a single grip of a strand with scissors, the length of the hair when cutting is different.

Depending on the density of the strand, it takes an average of 5-8 grips to process it. Thus, a strand treated with serrated scissors at an angle of 45° to it will consist of such a number of groups of hair of different lengths, which are obtained by multiplying the number of teeth of the scissors by the number of grips (cuts) made, plus those hairs that did not fall under the teeth scissors and were not cut.

Let's say that the number of teeth on the scissors is 10 and they made 8 locks of the strand. Multiplying 8 by 10, we get that such a strand consists of 80 groups of hair of different lengths (not counting the scissors not captured by the teeth). If, on the other hand, a strand is processed, placing the serrated scissors perpendicular to it, then under similar conditions there will be only 8 groups of hair of different lengths, that is, ten times less.

It can be seen from the foregoing that the location of the serrated scissors in relation to the processed strand of hair is very important for the high-quality thinning.

Holding the strand intended for thinning with the index and thumb of the left hand, it is necessary to grab it with serrated scissors at an angle of about 45 ° to it. The place of the first strand capture depends on the density of the hair. The thicker the hair, the longer the section of the strand should be processed. For normal thinning of medium-sized hair, it is necessary to process them by at least one third of the length.

Having carried out the first capture of the strand in the selected area, it is necessary to compress the working blades of the serrated scissors. In this case, the part of the hair that has fallen under their teeth will be cut off. Then you should unclench the scissors, move them towards the ends of the hair by about 1 - 1.5 cm and squeeze their working blades again.

Thus, the working movements of the serrated scissors are constantly repeated as they move towards the ends of the strand.

After the strand of hair has been processed, it is necessary to comb out the cut hair from it. To do this, take the comb in the right hand and, pressing the base of the strand to the scalp with the left hand, begin combing from the ends of the hair, gradually moving towards its base. After combing the strand and, therefore, removing all the cut hair from it, you can begin to thin out the next strands.

As noted above, it is advisable to perform thinning when cutting hair with a razor. Moreover, regardless of whether the work is done with a dangerous or safety razor, you can get equally good results.

The technological processes of thinning with dangerous and safety razors are similar. Therefore, the process of performing hair thinning with a razor will be considered below without indicating which razor the operation is performed with.

Before cutting hair with a razor, they must be moistened with water or washed, wiped and combed.

Usually in the process of hair thinning, their general shortening is performed.

Combed hair is ready for a haircut. The scalp is divided into certain sections, which, according to the specifics of processing, are common. It is advisable to single out four such areas: two - uniting the temporal regions of the hair, one - on the parietal part of the head, and one - uniting all the hair from the crown to the line of their growth on the neck (Fig. 51).

According to the specifics of processing, these sections of the scalp (two temporal sections are taken as one, since they are usually processed in the same way) differ from each other and are considered independent. The change in the length of the hair in any of these areas is practically independent of the length of the hair in the remaining areas of the scalp. Most hairstyles require a certain length of hair at the back of the head, temples or parietal part.

Rice. 51. Dividing the scalp into sections for cutting and fixing them with clamps: a - occipital area, b - temporal area

Each section of the scalp has its own specific treatment, which will be discussed below.

There are many different hair thinning techniques. However, you should use only those that give the best results with the least amount of time and effort.

For ease of processing, each of the main sections can be divided into separate strands and secured with clips. The number of such strands depends on the density of the hair. Hair is divided into sections as follows. Take the comb in the right hand in the usual way, as when combing hair. Then the parietal part of the hairline is separated with a U-shaped parting. For this, two horizontal partings are made, originating from the left and right frontal notches and limited by a parting perpendicular to them, passing through the top of the head.

After the formation of a U-shaped section of hair on the crown of the head, comb the hair in different directions from the parting line along the entire perimeter of the resulting area. Next, with two vertical partings going from the left and right ear up to the intersection with the horizontal partings, you need to separate the temporal sections of the hair and comb them in the same way as in the first case - in different directions from the parting line. Thus, along with the separation of the temporal sections of the hair, the area at the back of the head required for processing was also formed.

Then, for ease of processing, each section of the scalp should be divided into separate strands and secured with clips. It is advisable to start this operation from the back of the head so that the shape of the base of each strand is as close as possible to a rectangle with average side sizes not exceeding 3 - 4 and 7 - 8 cm. small parts.

So, to divide the section of hair on the back of the head into strands, it is necessary to continue two partings, passing from the frontal recesses down to the neck. Thus, the occipital section of the hair will be divided into three parts. Next, each resulting part must be divided into strands of the desired size with horizontal partings, starting from the top, and secured with clips (the lowest strands along the edge of hair growth on the neck do not need to be fixed with clips).

Each of the temporal sections of hair is usually divided into two strands by horizontal partings. Then the hair of the parietal area is separated. The division of hair into strands must begin from the forehead. The first strand of hair adjacent to the forehead in the hairstyle acts as a bang, and its size depends on the style of the hairstyle. The dimensions of the bases of the remaining strands of hair are shown in Fig. 52.

Start thinning hair from the lowest strands. The strand is taken with the index and thumb of the left hand, combed and proceed to the haircut. It should be borne in mind that the hair treatment starts from the lowest strand and therefore it should be the shortest. It is along the ends of the hair of the lower strands that the edging line usually runs (see p. 132). A rare exception is the haircut style, in which each subsequent strand is longer than the previous one.

The first strands of hair along the edge of their growth on the neck should not usually be milled strongly, so as not to make them too sparse. Therefore, having determined how long the hair should be left, you should slightly pull the strand with the fingers of your left hand from the scalp. Then you need to put the razor on top of the strand at a rather obtuse angle to it so that the thinning area does not exceed 1 - 1.5 cm. After that, the strand is cut off by moving the razor from the hair roots to the ends. In this way, the lowest strands of hair are treated, and they are left quite thick. The strands of hair located above should be thinned a little more, i.e. the area of ​​their thinning gradually increases to 2-3 cm or more. However, in any case, the length of each subsequent strand is not less than 3/4 of its length.

Rice. 52. Techniques for thinning strands of hair with a straight razor

When processing hair strands located closer to the back of the head, it is necessary to change the angle of the razor to the strand, making it more and more sharp. As you move up, in addition to the angle of the razor, the hair cutting technique also changes. For example, if the first (and in some cases the second) strand of hair can be cut with a single stroke of the razor, then the number of strokes required to cut each subsequent strand will increase by about five. This makes it possible to perform thinning more accurately and make the hairstyle lush.

The number of strokes of the razor increases with very thick hair. For thinning such hair, a technique is usually used in which the strand is processed from two sides - external and internal (Fig. 53). Bilateral thinning is usually used in those areas where you need to get more lush hair (most often on the crown). In addition, it is in this area that the hair is the thickest. See p. 121 - 124.

After thinning the hair on the back of the head, the temporal areas are treated. The hairline on them, as a rule, is not very thick, therefore, here they are limited to minimal thinning. Having determined the required length of hair with the index and thumb of the left hand, comb it. Then the razor is brought almost at a right angle to the side of the strand, that is, if the base of the strand has the shape of a rectangle, to its smaller side. This will make it possible to easily change the length of the cut strand of hair during the haircut, which is very important. After all, the length of the hair in the temporal areas can be very different depending on the hairstyle. With a significant difference in the length of the hair at the back of the head and temples, it is necessary to achieve a gradual transition.

Such a transition from short hair at the back of the head to long hair at the temples is very convenient to get when cutting the temporal sections of the hair. The features of cutting these areas are as follows: when processing the left side of the scalp from the starting position (the combed strand of hair is held with the fingers of the left hand, and the razor is brought to the strand at the desired angle), it is necessary to start cutting the hair by moving the razor to the left towards the face. At the same time, the fingers of the left hand holding the strand should move in the same direction as the razor, as if absorbing its pressure on the hair. During the movement of the razor and fingers to the left, the strand of hair is taut. Thus, the razor will move as if in a circle, the center of which is the base of the cut strand of hair. Using this technique, it is possible to achieve a very smooth and even cut line of the temporal sections of the hair.

Sometimes it is necessary in the process of cutting the temporal strand of hair to gradually increase its length. To do this, simultaneously with the advancement of the razor and the fingers of the left hand towards the face, one should gradually move the razor and the fingers of the left hand along the strand towards its ends. The same technique is used to cut the second strand of hair on this side of the scalp. However, the angle of the razor to the strand of hair should be reduced in order to file the second strand slightly larger than the first.

Rice. 53. Hair thinning from the inside and outside of the strands with dangerous and safety razors: a - in the dark area, b - in the occipital area, c - in the temporal area

The technological process of processing the right temporal section of the hair is similar to that just considered and differs only in the direction of movement of the razor and the fingers of the left hand, which move not towards the face, but away from the face.

After thinning the hair at the temples and the back of the head, you can proceed to the processing of the parietal area. The haircut starts with a strand of hair on the forehead. The bangs are an important element of the hairstyle, and they need to be filed very carefully. If the client wears a bang all the time, then it is treated with bilateral thinning. If a bang is needed from time to time, it is milled only on the side of the strand that will be inside in the hairstyle.

To perform bilateral thinning of the parietal area, remove the clip from the strand on the forehead, take it with the index and thumb of the left hand and comb it. Then, pulling the hair forward on the face, a razor is brought to them from below. The razor is at a very sharp angle to the strand, i.e. almost flat. Then, with light movements of the razor towards the ends of the hair, they begin thinning. If the master uses a dangerous razor, to protect the fingers of the left hand from cuts, it is necessary to move them towards the ends of the hair at the same time as the razor. In the case of a safety razor, this precaution is unnecessary.

For high-quality thinning of hair, three to five strokes with a razor from the underside of the strand are enough. They can be less or more depending on the thickness of the hair, the requirements for the hairstyle, and the sharpness of the razor. The sharper the razor, the more hairs it will cut with each stroke. Usually, it is enough to file about 1/3 of the hair from the bottom side of the strand.

After thinning the lower side of the strand, the razor is moved to the upper side. The razor should be at the same sharp angle to it as when processing the underside of the strand. When final thinning, it must be taken into account that the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthreading the strand should not be less than 1/3 of its length. True, this condition can be violated if the hair is very sparse.

The remaining strands of hair of the parietal area are processed in the same sequence and with the same precautions (in the case of using a straight razor) as the first strand of hair on the forehead.

edging- this is a haircut operation, as a result of which a sharp line is attached to the hair, limiting it along the entire edge of the growth of the scalp or in its individual sections within the required area and giving the hairstyle a final contour. Edging is most often the final operation of a haircut; with its help, the hairstyle is given the final silhouette. Only the hair along the edge of their growth is processed.

Sometimes in the process of performing other cutting operations, you can simultaneously make edging in separate areas. However, it is more expedient to make it the final operation.

Hair edging can be done with a machine, simple scissors and a straight razor. In men's hairdressing salons, all three tools are used to perform this operation, while in women's salons, edging is most often done with simple scissors. Such a difference in the use of the tool in the men's and women's halls is explained by the fact that in the men's halls mainly short hair is processed, and in the women's - long hair. For edging on long hair, you can not use the machine. A straight razor is just as unacceptable, although in some cases it is used. Simple scissors in this case are universal, since they are equally convenient for edging both short and long hair (Fig. 54).

Below we consider the technological process of edging with each of the above mentioned tools. As mentioned, the use of a machine to perform this operation is possible only with a short haircut.

To perform edging, after all the operations required for this haircut model, a comb is taken in the right hand and the hair is combed with the side with frequent teeth. In this case, special attention should be paid to those parts of the hair that are located at the edging line. The fact is that the ideal conditions for edging are those under which each hair located on the peripheral areas of the scalp, due to the characteristics of its growth or artificially, using a comb, will be directed along the shortest path to the nearest point on the edging line, i.e., perpendicular to it (Fig. 55).

It is recommended to start edging the hair from the left temple. To do this, you need to take the machine in your right hand so that its bottom plate is on top. Moreover, the machine should be directed with its teeth towards the edging line in such a way that its lower plate, which is currently on top, is perpendicular to the treated area of ​​the scalp. At the same time, it must be remembered that in order to perform edging, a machine with the thinnest possible bottom plate, i.e., the smallest number, is required. Such a clipper removes hair almost at the level of the skin.

Rice. 54. Hair edging: a - with an electric machine, b - with a straight razor, c - with scissors

Rice. 56. Forms of the temples: a - straight, b - oblique

Having outlined the height of the left temple, i.e., the line of its edging, as well as its shape - straight or oblique (Fig. 56), the teeth of the machine are applied perpendicular to the skin of the treated area.

After the edging line has been processed, without removing the machine from the skin and without changing its position in relation to the treated area, move it down from the edging line by 1 - 1.5 cm. As the machine moves down, you need to gradually loosen the pressure on it. Thus, the hair located below the edging line is cut off.

After edging the left temple, edging the hair behind the left auricle should be done. To do this, once again comb the hair with the fulfillment of the above requirements and outline the edging line. As a rule, the edging line behind the auricle has a shape close to a semicircle with a small radius, so the hair treatment in this area has its own specifics. If hair is cut with the entire cutting plane of the machine, that is, with all its teeth, then, given the shape of the hair edging line behind the auricle, it is impossible to trim with the entire cutting plane of the machine. Such areas are treated with only one side of the cutting plane of the machine. To do this, the machine is held at such an angle to the scalp, which will make it possible to process any rounding of the edging line with the very edge of its cutting edge, that is, with literally a few cutting teeth. When edging the hair in this area, it is necessary to slightly bend the auricle with the fingers of the left hand.

After processing the hair of the left side of the head, the edging of the right temple is performed with the same techniques. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the height of the edging line of the left and right temples and their shape are the same.

Then they move on to edging the hair along the edge of their growth on the neck. Such a sequence of processing each section of the hair is considered the most rational, as it allows you to correctly complete the edging line of the entire scalp. In addition, this way it is easier to make the left and right sides of the hairstyle symmetrical.

However, edging the hair with a clipper does not give the effect that can be achieved using a straight razor. The reason for this is that it is practically impossible to cut hair at skin level with a machine, that is, to achieve such a clean edging as with a straight razor. A straight razor is also often used to cut hair from the edging line down after processing with a machine and scissors.

The technological process of performing edging with a dangerous razor is as follows. Considering that shaving dry hair causes painful phenomena, it is necessary to moisten the hair in the area of ​​​​the entire edging line with a damp piece of cotton wool. Bearing in mind that during the operation the hair may dry out, it is recommended to wet it in parts.

After wetting the hair with wet cotton wool near the edging line of the left temple and behind the auricle, a comb with frequent teeth must be carefully combed in the right direction. When processing the left temple, a dangerous razor is taken in the right hand with the second move. The razor is applied to the intended edging line, and one of the fingers of the left hand (big, index or middle) is applied to the scalp 1–2 cm above the razor blade. This position of the fingers of the left hand and the razor is considered to be the initial position for edging.

The operation consists in the coordinated movements of the fingers of the left hand, pressed to the scalp, and the razor: by moving the finger of the left hand upwards, the skin is pulled up in the area of ​​the treatment area, and then the hair is shaved by moving the razor down from the edging line. If necessary, these movements are repeated.

When edging the hair behind the left auricle, the fingers of the left hand stretch the skin in the right areas and hold the auricle for ease of processing.

Starting to process the right temple, as in the first case, moisten the hair in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe edging line and comb it in the right direction. The razor is taken in the right hand with the first trick. The edging of the hair on the right side of the head is performed in the same manner as on the left side.

Hair edging with scissors is performed both in the women's and men's halls. As noted, it is equally convenient to process both long and short hair with scissors. However, the treatment of short hair is different from the treatment of long hair.

Before edging short hair with scissors, it is necessary to comb the hair of the treated area, giving it the desired direction. It is advisable to start edging from the left temple, since it is more difficult to process it than the right one; giving a certain shape to the left temple when edging, it is easier to repeat it on the right.

After combing the hair, the scissors are taken in the right hand in the usual way. Then, turning them with the back side of one of their working canvases to the scalp, half-open them and bring the ends to the skin before the hair grows from the side of the face (Fig. 57). The working blade of the scissors, touching the skin, should be at a very sharp angle, almost parallel to it, and the ends of the scissors should be turned towards the ear and directed along the intended edging line.

With a slow movement of the scissors to the right towards the ear, the edging begins. As the scissors move in this direction, their working webs are constantly compressed and unclenched, trying to cut the hair only with the ends of the scissors. At the same time, the working blade of the scissors, resting on the scalp, should slide smoothly, without breaking away from the skin, in the direction of the edging. In this way, the edging of the left temple is performed.

Then the hair is processed behind the auricle. In the process of edging this section of hair, it is necessary to hold the auricle with the fingers of the left hand. At the same time, for a more stable smooth movement of the scissors along the edging line behind the auricle, the fingers of the left hand, if necessary, will be the support for the right hand with the scissors.

Rice. 57. Edging a straight temple with scissors

The edging of the right temple is also performed in the direction from the face to the ear and with the same techniques as the left temple. Techniques for cutting hair in the neck area are similar to those discussed above.

The technological process of edging longer hair is as follows. First of all, it is necessary to comb the hair very carefully so that not a single uncombed area remains on the scalp. Then the hair of the parietal area is divided by a straight parting into two equal parts and combed from the parting line in different directions.

The reception of the edging depends on the length of the hair. If the length of the hair is such that in the temporal areas they only slightly fall below the earlobes, and in the back of the head they cover the neck approximately to its middle, certain edging techniques are used. If the hair in these areas is much longer, then the edging techniques will be different. According to the methods of edging, hair can be divided into two groups: the first - hair up to 20 cm long, the second - hair longer than 20 cm.

When processing the hair of the first group, they are first combed and separated with a straight parting. As in all the cases considered, it is more convenient to start edging from the left temple. First you need to determine the shape and height of the edging line. In this case, it is necessary to be guided by the natural landmarks of the details of the face (nose, lips, chin, etc.) and the auricle, i.e., outline at what height in relation to the auricle the edging line will pass and to which details of the face it will be directed. This procedure for determining the shape and height of the edging line of the left section of the scalp will allow, when processing the right temporal section of the hair, to repeat it with a sufficient degree of accuracy (Fig. 58).

Then the scissors and comb are taken in the right hand, placing them in the palm of the right hand so that the ring finger is inserted into one of the rings of the scissors, the rings are pressed to the palm, and the index and thumb hold the comb. Then a comb is inserted into the hair as close as possible to the parting on the parietal part.

By moving the comb down, begin to comb the hair. At the same time, the comb is held in such a way that the hair passing through its teeth is pressed against the skin by the end of the comb, i.e., so that the teeth of the comb are directed at a very sharp angle to it, almost flat.

Rice. 58. Determining the direction and shape of the edging line according to the details of the face

With the edge of the palm or fingers of the left hand, press the hair against the skin just above the comb and at the same time move the palm to the ends of the hair. After the comb reaches the ends of the hair, the palm of the left hand is stopped and the hair is pressed against the skin with it. Then the comb is transferred to the left hand, and the thumb of the right hand is inserted into the free ring of scissors.

It is advisable to start edging the left temporal section of the hair from the side of the face towards the ear. To do this, the scissors are brought to the strand of hair so that one of the working canvases touches the skin, and the ends are directed to the ear along the edging line. Pressing the processed strand to the skin with the left hand, start cutting with the tips of the working blades of the scissors. The scissors are moved along the edging line to the ear. That working blade of scissors, which rests on the skin, should slide over it without separation during the shearing process.

When cutting hair, the working blades of the scissors open and move them to the right by 1 - 2 cm. Then, stopping the scissors, they cut off the section of hair that is between their working blades. Opening the scissors again and moving them another 1 - 1.5 cm to the right, cut off the next section of hair. With this technique, the hair of the left side of the head is edged, after which they proceed to the processing of the hair on the right. In this case, only the direction of the edging changes, all the techniques remain the same. In this case, it is advisable to carry out the edging in the direction from the ear to the face, and not vice versa. The occipital section of the hair on the neck is recommended to be processed by moving the scissors to the right.

After processing the entire scalp, it is necessary to check the quality of the edging. To do this, carefully comb all the hair in the direction in which they will lie in the hairstyle. If it turns out that in some areas individual hairs crawl out of the edging line or the edging itself is uneven, the mistakes made should be corrected.

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Pointcut - a dotted jagged cut from the ends of the hair to the middle (for thinning).

Polishing - a dotted jagged cut from the middle of the strand to the ends.

Pointing - a sliding jagged cut from the middle of the hair to the ends (with straight scissors):

• - ponting - a jagged cut, sliding from the ends of the hair to the middle to dry (more obtuse angle);
• - pancroting - a sliding jagged cut from the ends of the hair to the middle on dry to wet hair (sharper).

Slicing - a sliding cut with straight scissors from the roots of the hair to its ends, the angle is 30 - 60.

When styling hair up, slicing is performed from the outside, and down - from the inside.

Modern haircut techniques

Geometric - geometric shapes, details, hair cutting.

Corridors are not connecting parts. Cut with straight scissors. Corridors come in different lengths, can be arranged in parallel or in a checkerboard pattern.

Unconnected connected parts - not connected in form, but connected in image.

Control strand

Having chosen a haircut, the first step is to set the length of the hair, cutting off the first strand, along which the rest are then leveled (or, conversely, not leveled, but made shorter or longer). This strand is called the control strand. With different haircuts, the number of control strands may be different. But the technology is the same anyway. After the control strand is separated, the next strand is taken, partially or completely capturing the hair of the control strand, and cut off at the desired level. The figure shows how hair is combed to the control strand in different parts of the head. (Appendix C Fig. 1).

This technique of holding (pulling) the strands in a certain position in relation to the head. The pull can be made at different angles. This means that a strand of hair with the surface of the head makes an angle of the specified number of degrees. A slight delay of each next strand by 10--15 ° creates the effect of hair curling up. In this case, each next strand is cut off at the level of the previous one.

With a 90° pull, the strand should be perpendicular to the head.

Pulling is the main technique when modeling a haircut. By increasing or decreasing the length of the strands, you adjust their length and create a hairstyle silhouette.

Hair removal on fingers

Tools: straight scissors, comb. Works on both wet and dry hair.

The sequence of the reception: parietal zone, crown, temples, occiput. Removing hair on the fingers is one of the main techniques in all modern haircuts. This approach must be used:

• - if you need to shorten too long hair before the main haircut;
• - when performing a control haircut, the purpose of which is to remove individual hairs that violate the haircut pattern. (Appendix C Fig. 3).

When performing the reception, you need to stand behind the client, insert the comb into the hair from the side of his face and move it towards you. The essence of the reception is to shorten the hair all over the head. In this case, the length of the strand is set once, and the subsequent ones are guided by it. To do this, when combing a new strand, grab some of the hair from the previous one and cut off the hair at their level. First you need to comb a strand of hair 2-3 cm thick, hold it between your index and middle fingers under the comb. Then, pulling the strand perpendicular to the head, insert the comb up and then move the fingers squeezing it. Stop the movement of the fingers, a little before reaching the intended cut line. The comb must be brought to the end of the hair and removed. Cut the hair by guiding the scissors along the fingers holding the strand. For thick hair, the thickness of the strand is 0.5-1.0 cm. With a hair length of more than 20 cm, a removal technique is used on the fingers or from a comb. The first cut strand is the control. The following are sheared, capturing all or part of it.

Removing hair on a comb

Tools: straight scissors, combined comb. Works on both wet and dry hair.

Used for short haircuts. The sequence of the reception: parietal zone, crown, temples, occiput.

Using only scissors and a comb, you can make any haircut, including a very short one, using the hair removal technique on a comb. This technique is used when long hair has already been cut, so that the length of the strands does not exceed 3 cm.

A comb with very fine teeth should be inserted into the hair, holding it at an angle of 30--40 ° and trying to keep the hair perpendicular to the head with it. The scissors should be held parallel to the comb. The comb is advanced against the growth of the hair and the hair is cut from it at the moment when they are in an upright position. (Appendix C Fig. 4).

Reducing hair to nothing

Tools: combination comb, straight scissors, straight razor, safety razor. Works on both wet and dry hair. The sequence of the reception: from the hairline on the neck up and from the hairline on the temples up to the frontal zone. This technique is used to create a smooth transition from short hair at the back of the head and temples to longer hair in the upper occipital and frontal zones. It can be done with both scissors and a straight razor. When performing the technique, the length of the strands is gradually and smoothly increased from the shortest possible on the neck to the longer hair of the parietal zone. Performing scissors. Insert the comb into the hair to the roots at the very bottom of the occipital area and cut the hair from the tips of the comb teeth with the tips of scissors. The comb should be held at an angle of 30-45° to the hair roots. If the hair is long, first you need to cut it off on your fingers to 3-5 cm, and then proceed to nullify it. Performing this technique, first move from the bottom up and to the right. Then you need to comb your hair in the other direction and cut off the protruding strands. Then they move from bottom to top to the left, etc. This operation is repeated several times. With each higher and higher horizontal, you can increase the length of the hair at the back of the head. To do this, the hair should no longer be cut from the tips of the comb teeth, but from their middle, and not with the tips of the scissors, but with their middle part, etc. You can increase the angle of the comb in relation to the head if you want to get a smooth transition to longer hair . (Appendix C Fig. 5).

Performing a straight razor. Usually, a razor nullifies the hair of the lower occipital zone with a short haircut. Here, the upper limit is the line of the largest shearing volume. It runs approximately from the top of one ear to the top of the other along the convex part of the back of the head. The hair of this zone is first combed out at an angle of 45 ° with respect to the vertical parting in one direction and cut off, alternating movements of the comb and razor. Then the same operation is repeated, combing the hair at the same 45° angle to the other side. When performing the reception, the razor is pressed against the hair almost flat. However, since the goal is to gradually reduce the length of the hair and reduce it to nothing at the marginal line of the back of the head, the pressure of the razor must be increased as it moves down.

Tools: scissors or razor (work on wet hair), comb. It is performed with scissors on both wet and dry hair, with a razor on wet hair. Shading is the final stage, fine-tuning the method of reducing hair "to nothing" to a perfectly smooth polished surface. Its purpose is to provide a smooth transition from long hair to short hair, to create the effect of "varnished" hair. The technique here is the same as when cutting hair to nothing with scissors or a razor. The difference lies in a more thorough study. To perform the technique, it is better to take a comb with very thin teeth and work with the tips of the scissors. Scissors should be held slightly obliquely in relation to the comb. If the reception is performed with a razor, then the latter should be very sharp. When performing shading at the very neck, you can resort to the "cutting" method. To do this, insert the comb from below into the hair on the neck and lift them perpendicular to the head. With a very sharp razor, the blade of which should be at a slight (15-20 °) angle to the comb, cut off the protruding hairs. The razor should move perpendicular to the teeth of the comb. (Appendix C Fig. 6).

thinning

Tools: thinning scissors, straight scissors, straight razor, comb. It is performed with scissors on both dry and wet hair, with a razor - only on wet hair. Thinning is the thinning of hair. The essence of the technique is to cut out individual strands at different heights. Thinning can solve different problems: creating a certain silhouette of a haircut (modeling), maintaining a hairstyle, as well as giving a haircut a natural look. Thinning is performed at the roots, at the ends of the hair and at different heights of the strands. Increasing hair volume. To increase the volume of hairstyles, basal thinning is done. It is performed by plucking the hair of the parietal and upper occipital zones. To perform the technique, comb out the strand with a comb with sparse teeth, lift the strand up and after 0.5-1 cm separate thin strands are plucked with the tips of the scissors (after 1-2 interdental intervals). The length of the strand is 2-4 cm, depending on the length of the haircut. Filtration of the ends of the hair. Milling the ends of the hair is recommended in almost all haircuts - this gives the hair a natural look. Thinning the ends of the hair can be done with straight scissors, thinning scissors, a dangerous or thinning razor. Cut hair in both straight and oblique cuts. Now thinning, performed by pointing, as well as slicing, is becoming more and more popular. To perform the reception, take strands 1.5-2 cm thick and 3-5 cm long and work with thinning scissors. They are closed at a distance of about 2 cm from the ends of the hair strands. This operation is done several times depending on the thickness of the hair. Thinning with straight scissors. First, a strand of hair is pulled. Then open the scissors and bring them approximately to the middle of the strand. It is necessary to slightly reduce the working blades of the scissors and at the same time quickly move them to the ends of the hair. You can not close the scissors, otherwise you can cut the strand. (Appendix C Fig. 7).

Hair thinning with a thinning razor. There is a special thinning tool. It is very easy for them to work. The razor is led along the raised strand from the roots or from the middle of the strand (depending on the thickness of the hair) to the ends of the hair. The razor should be held almost parallel to the strand. Repeat the movement 4-5 times. Thinning hair with a dangerous razor. This technique significantly improves the quality of the haircut. With it, you can increase the volume of the hairstyle, especially in the area of ​​​​the crown and back of the head, even with sparse hair. Thinning hair with a razor is done only on wet hair. With one hand, you need to pinch a strand of hair and pull it to the desired angle. The thicker the hair, the closer to the roots you can start thinning. At the beginning of the reception, the razor blade is pressed flat against the hair. Having brought the razor to the intended cut of the hair, it is necessary to increase the angle of its inclination. The movement is repeated 2-3 times, if you need more splendor - 3-5 times.

Thinning hair with straight scissors. Thinning hair improves the appearance of hair. The scissors must be kept parallel to the hair. You can work both the entire length of the working canvases - you get deep thinning, - and part of it. Thinning long hair. To thin out long hair, you need to comb out a strand and remove the hair with the same techniques, only from the side of the palm of your hand. The depth of thinning can be different depending on the purpose. Usually it ranges from 2 cm to "/z of the length of the strand. Thinning allows the master to create hairstyles in accordance with his plan, without resorting to additional means. Thinning for long hair can be done over the entire length of the working blade of the scissors. (Appendix C Fig. 8) Thinning using the pointing technique.In modern haircuts, masters try to use techniques that allow you to create an original shape.One of these techniques is pointing - a haircut performed using the pointing technique.Due to the oblique cut and teeth, the hair lies great, and after washing it is sometimes enough to dry them slightly hair dryer - and the hairstyle takes on a beautiful look.

Hair cutting is one of the most difficult operations. The quality of the haircut determines the appearance of a person, the health of the hair, how the hair will lie in the hair, how long it will keep the shape of the haircut. A good haircut, well-chosen and carefully executed, not only affects the external state of a person, it raises self-esteem, gives self-confidence.

Despite the fact that fashion is changing all the time, and skills and techniques are being improved, any person who decides to master the profession of a hairdresser needs to know the basics of hairdressing.

Hair cutting methods.

To create different haircut silhouettes, the hair can be processed with different haircut techniques. These methods include:

¦ removal (cutting) of hair on the fingers and on the comb;

¦ hair removal on a comb;

¦ reduction of hair to nothing;

¦ shading;

¦ thinning;

¦ edging.

Removing hair on the fingers is one of the main techniques in all modern haircuts. This approach must be used:

• - if you need to shorten too long hair before the main haircut.
• - when performing a control haircut, the purpose of which is to remove individual hairs that violate the haircut pattern.

When performing the reception, stand behind the client, insert the comb into the hair from the side of his face and move towards you. The essence of the reception is to shorten the hair all over the head.

In this case, the length of the strand is set once, and the subsequent ones are guided by it.

To do this, when combing a new strand, you grab part of the hair from the previous one and cut off the hair at their level.

Removing hair on a comb - using only scissors and a comb, you can make almost any haircut, including a very short one, for example, by removing hair on a comb.

However, it should be noted that this technique is used when long hair has already been cut, so that the length of the strands does not exceed 3 cm.

Reduction of hair to nothing - this technique is necessary to create a smooth transition from short hair at the back of the head and temples to longer hair of the upper occipital and frontal zones.

It can be done with both scissors and a dangerous razor, which requires skill in working with it.

The reception consists in a gradual, smooth increase in the length of the strands from the shortest possible on the neck to the longer hair of the parietal zone.

The reception technique is about the same as when cutting hair on a comb.

Shading can be considered the final stage, fine-tuning the method of reducing hair "to nothing" to a perfectly smooth polished surface. Its purpose is to provide a smooth transition from long hair to short hair, to create the effect of "varnished" hair.

Thinning is the thinning of hair. The essence of the technique is to cut out individual strands at different heights.

Filtration can solve different problems. It is not only necessary when creating a certain haircut silhouette (modeling), but also helps to maintain the hairstyle, and also gives the haircut a natural look.

Thinning is performed at the roots, at the ends of the hair and at different heights.

Modern haircut technologies allow the master to create hairstyles in accordance with his plan, without resorting to additional means such as styling, combing, fixing with varnish, etc. With such technologies, so-called precision cutting methods are used. Accuracy in work is the key to success.

Point cutting methods include the following:

• - strand by strand.
• - the imposition of strand on strand.
• - graduation.

Strand by strand.

The essence of this method of accurate haircuts is as follows. The length of one control strand is set, and all the rest, combed with partings (depending on the model, they can be multidirectional), are superimposed on the control and cut off exactly at its level. The draw angle of these strands can also be different.

The control strand can be determined by the line of the lower contour - this happens, for example, in a bob haircut - or it can be formed at different stages of the haircut in different areas of the head in its own way. The length of the hair when performing this method also depends on the angle of tension of the subsequent strands in relation to the control. If, when combing strands, you increase the angle of tension, the upper strands will turn out to be shorter than the lower ones.

When cutting hair without applying a tension angle, at the same level, it should be borne in mind that when it dries, it will rise slightly and the upper ones will be slightly shorter than the lower ones.

Graduation.

Graduation - changing the angle of the stretch of the strands in order to create a smooth or contrasting silhouette.

So, for example, if a caret is made with a zero pull, that is, all hairs have a common cut line, then in a graduated caret, the strands are pulled to some angle when cutting, and the result is a completely different haircut.

But graduation is also called a haircut method, in which the hair is combed with vertical partings, and the cut line runs at an acute or obtuse angle to the head.

Smooth transition of hair length.

A blurred cut line of the strands and a smooth transition in the length of the hair are obtained by gradually increasing the angle of the draw from 0 ° to 90 ° of each subsequent strand in relation to the previous one.

In order for the graduation line to be smooth, the strands must be taken thin, stretched well and carefully aligned along the trimmed hair.

Cutting hair with ledges or a ladder

If, when moving from strand to strand, the angle of tension of the strand with respect to the control is sharply changed, the haircut will turn out to be ledges.

If, with a sharp change in the angle, the strands are taken thick, you get a "ladder".

It should be noted that modern fashion very often resorts to this technique.

edging.

Edging is the process of creating the bottom line of the haircut outline, as well as this line itself.

The edging, like the hairline, runs along the entire circumference of the head. However, the word “edging” is most often followed by a clarification: edging the back of the head, edging the temples, edging the bangs.

When performing edging, the following points must be considered. First of all, ask the client what he wants the bottom line of the haircut - even, torn, curved, with ledges. Then carefully look at the features of the face and neck of the client. The edging line can help hide some flaws or, conversely, emphasize the merits of appearance.

In addition, pay attention to whether the client has any skin defects - pigmentation disorders, scars, moles, which are also better hidden under the hair.

It is also important to consider the direction of natural hair growth.

And if, for example, a person's hair swirls or grows upwards on the back of his head, and you overestimate the edging line, no matter how hard you try, a beautiful even line will not work.

In some haircuts, edging is done at the beginning of work - for example, in a square - because it is the main shaping element of the haircut.

However, in most haircuts, it is still done at the end.

Short hair edging.

The edging of short hair is done with straight scissors, a typewriter or a razor.

When performing the technique, comb your hair as often as possible so as not to miss the hairs that can disrupt the intended line. Work with the tips of the scissors, cutting off only those hairs that go over the hair-free skin.

With a very short haircut, you may need to remove short hair on the neck (sometimes at the temples) that grows below the edging line.

To do this, use a razor.

The skin is pulled with one hand, and unnecessary hair is processed with the other: first the left temple, then behind the left auricle, then the right temple and behind the right auricle, then the neck.

Machine edging requires some work skill.

Hair should lie strictly perpendicular to the edging line. You need to work carefully so as not to snatch out excess hair. The sequence of work: the temple and the line behind the auricle on one side, then on the other, then the neck.