How to make a knife sheath? Making scabbards from leather. Step-by-step guide DIY braided leather scabbard

For protection, safety and security, a knife sheath is required. The basic requirements are durability, convenience and reliability. At the first stage, the material of manufacture is selected, from which the sheath for the knife will be made with your own hands. It should not change its properties under the influence of moisture and temperatures, have a rigid base to protect the blade.

General manufacturing instructions

First you need to decide on the design. It is recommended to use the standard configuration - it will be difficult for a beginner to make a scabbard with additional compartments and sections. Then choose the material of manufacture - leather, wood, dense fabric. It is not recommended to make a plastic construction - there is a possibility of a burr on the inside, which will lead to constant scratching of the blade.

Manufacturing steps:

Sample. A thick sheet of paper is folded in half, a knife is placed on it. We outline the contours, taking into account the seam allowance from the side of the sharp edge. For a leather knife sheath, this is approximately 10 mm. It is better to make the mount separately so that it is possible to dismantle it and install another.
blank. The source material is cut according to the template, allowances for the connection are taken into account. Wooden sheaths are made without them, as the halves are often glued together special glue. The entry of the blade is checked - it should not experience resistance, but at the same time, the play is minimal.
Insert. It is located on the inside, from the side of the sharpened blade. Recommended manufacturing material - softwood or thick felt. This is necessary to maintain the sharpness of the blade. This is one of additional features, which should have a sheath made of leather.
Wearing method. The most common is hanging. On a wooden or leather scabbard, a loop is made at the top of the structure. It attaches to a belt. The horizontal arrangement is convenient for small blades. Apart from upper loop another one is made, at the other edge of the structure.

To protect against moisture, the surface of the material of manufacture can be treated with special compounds. It is important that they do not have a negative effect on steel - do not lead to its rusting, rapid wear of the blade.

Leather

Easiest for self-manufacturing leather scabbard. Material - saddle leather or rawhide. They work well and keep their shape. The seam connection ensures a snug fit at the edges. This can be done with an awl or with an overlocker.

For this type of scabbard you will need the following materials and tools:

Awl or overlock. If this is a single production, you can stop at the awl.
Thread up to 0.7 mm thick. It is treated with paraffin for better gliding.
Glue and thinner. The seam is treated with this composition so that the case for the folding knife has maximum tightness and reliability.
Felt insert. An alternative is to install a plastic insert.

Stitched components are tested for strength, homemade scabbards should be comfortable. The knife is removed without effort, to fix it, you can install a small rubber insert on the inner surface, closer to the loop. She will press the blade, preventing the knife from falling out when walking.

In the video you can see step by step instructions for self-production:

Wooden

How to make a wooden case, and in what cases would it be appropriate? This design has better aesthetic qualities than a leather product. But on performance characteristics yields to them. For the manufacture of wooden knife sheaths take hard rocks- walnut, oak, beech. They are difficult to process, but the quality will be optimal.

Wooden sheaths are made according to the following scheme:

The contour of the blade is cut out on two dies. Its dimensions should be 2-5 mm larger than the blade.
The dies are cut off, the inner surface is processed with a chisel. The depth of processing is greater than the thickness of the blade by 1-2 mm. Then sanding with sandpaper and polishing.
Connecting blanks and checking the entry of weapons.
Bonding two pieces. For this, standard wood glues are used.
External surface treatment.

Wooden scabbards are difficult to manufacture, but later you can apply a pattern or pattern to their surface, treat them with varnishes or paints. A leather loop is mounted on the belt for fastening.

You can also make a knife sheath out of fabric. But such homemade products will not last long, since additional processing will be required to improve their performance. This may affect the condition of the blade.

How to make a hunting knife with your own hands? This question was asked by more than one man who is fond of hunting.

Every self-respecting hunter should have a hunting knife in his arsenal. In the process of hunting, there are many situations in which a knife is simply necessary: from sharpening different kind pegs, before cutting the prey.

Nowadays, there is a great variety of shops for hunters and fishermen, where you can buy any kind of knives for money. However, mass-produced knives do not differ in durability and quality. A more expensive option is to order a hunting dagger from a well-known craftsman. In this case, you can get a fairly high-quality blade. But only homemade hunting knives can bring the greatest pride and satisfaction. After all, in the process you can adjust the knife according to your desire and taste. The production of hunting knives is a rather complicated process and requires thorough preparation.

Characteristic features of a hunting knife

In order to make a hunting knife, you need to figure out how it differs from other types.

So, in addition to performing ordinary cuts, it must cope with the following tasks:

finish off a wounded beast;
remove the skin;
cut up the carcass.

Based on this, one can distinguish characteristics designs:

Straight butt, for a powerful blow when finishing. For finishing, a separate blade with a point located in the center is often used, it is also called a hunting dagger.
Blade length 100-150 mm.
Use of harder grades of steel.
Handle made of wood, birch bark or non-slip artificial materials, with moderate topography. It should be convenient for cutting on yourself and away from you, as well as stabbing movements.
The absence of additional devices in the design.

So, how to make a hunting knife?

Steel selection

Before proceeding directly to forging, it is necessary to decide on the material from which the hunting knife will be made.

When choosing steel, they operate with five of its main properties:

Hardness. The ability of steel to resist deformation. Hardness is measured using the Rockwell scale, which has a gradation from 20 to 67 HRC.
Wear resistance. wear resistance of metal. Directly related to the hardness of the steel used.
Strength. Preservation of the integrity of the blade during impacts and other damaging factors.
Plastic. Absorption and dissipation of kinetic energy during impacts, cuts and bends.
Red hardness. An indicator of the stability of steel when exposed to temperature. The temperature of forging and hardening of steel depends on this indicator. The most red resistant are hard steel grades (over 900 °C).

All properties are closely related. The predominance of one of the indicators leads to a decrease in the quality of the material as a whole. The severity of a particular property is caused by alloyed additives and elements present in the metal.

Depending on the presence of certain alloying elements, the steel receives the appropriate marking. For example, grade U9 - carbon 0.9%, grade X12MF - contains 1.2% molybdenum and vanadium.

Of the most suitable steels for the manufacture of a hunting blade, steel of two grades can be noted, which are most widely used:

XB5- diamond alloyed carbon steel with high hardness (up to 70 HRC) and excellent cutting properties. The metal contains chromium and tungsten, which add strength. But with prolonged contact with water and dampness, corrosion spots may appear, so a knife made of such steel requires careful maintenance.
X12MB- stamped steel, tool, hardness up to 60 HRC. The composition includes: chromium - increases resistance to corrosion; molybdenum - makes steel more viscous; vanadium - increases heat resistance.

AT recent times powder steel became popular, for example, ELMAX (Sweden). The steel is quite wear-resistant and viscous, and also has anti-corrosion protection. Products from it keep sharpening for a long time.

Damascus steel - has exceptional hardness and elasticity, is not subject to corrosion. Damask steel has a pronounced pattern, which is attached to carbon steel. The blade made of damask steel easily copes with mechanical and thermal loads. The best hunting knives are made from damask steel.

Damascus steel - is not inferior to damask steel in all respects, but requires protection from moisture and dampness. The Damascus blade has a unique pattern and perfectly holds sharpening, but it must always be wiped after use and periodically lubricated with special oil.

Blade forging

Tools

We have dealt with the material, now we should talk about necessary tools and actually forging.

For forging you will need:

hammer up to 1 kg and hammer 4-6 kg;
Kuznetsk tongs, you can use pliers with the insulation removed;
wrench;
vise;
anvil or homemade anvil fixture;
grinder;
welding machine;
grinder;
a blacksmith's furnace or hearth, supplied with pressurization by means of bellows or a fan.

Before starting work experienced craftsmen it is advised to draw sketches of hunting knives, which can be done in the presence of one or another material. After choosing a suitable sketch, forging begins.

Forging steps

The forging process consists of several main stages, it is necessary:

Ignite the furnace and heat the metal to certain temperature(depending on the steel used).
Design and forge the shank. Subsequently, the workpiece is held behind it.
Formation of the future nose of the knife. At this stage, the future form of a hunting knife is acquired.
Blade forging with minimal allowances. At this stage, the metal should be gradually forged without changing the thickness of the workpiece.

Handle making

Making handles for knives creative process justified by their practical use. The handle should be strong, comfortable and practical. On the this moment There are plenty of materials from which you can make a knife handle with your own hands. You can create various combinations of materials and apply various techniques manufacturing, the main thing is that the handle of the knife with your own hands meets the individual requirements and characteristics of the owner.

Material selection

The most elegant, comfortable and most importantly - durable - are handles made of animal horns. Another advantage this material- it lends itself well to processing.

A handle made of wood or ebonite can be damaged if dropped. The metal handle is strong and reliable, but not practical due to freezing at low temperatures.

most suitable and available material for the manufacture of the handle is fiberglass impregnated with epoxy (epoxy resin) and laid in several layers. The material is light, durable and not affected by temperature. Same way wide application received textolite. However, for the manufacture of a textolite handle, it is necessary to use a solid bar, because when gluing several pieces, the strength of the product is lost.

Step by step manufacturing

It should be noted that before making a knife as a whole, it is necessary to initially select the type of handle: invoice or type-setting, since the shank of the workpiece for the handle is formed at earlier stages.

The manufacture of a knife handle is divided into several stages:

Make a sketch. On paper, draw the outline of the blade and shank, apply a drawing of the future handle on top.
Measure the length and width of future overlays or "cheeks". If the handle is type-setting, determine the number and thickness of the constituent elements.
To make a bolster and a trailer from brass (aluminum).
If the handle is type-setting, drill holes for the shank in constituent elements. If the handle is consignment note, drill holes for metal wads in the shank, then alternately in both blanks for lining.
Put on and stick with epoxy resin pads or typesetting tools, tightly squeeze or wrap the handle blank from all sides, for a more secure fixation of the handle on the shank.
Bringing the handle to readiness with a file or other grinding tool. (Produced after complete drying of the resin).
Handle peeling. Giving the handle a perfect smoothness and shape.

Scabbard making

Sheaths are an integral part of quality hunting knives. They are designed to keep the blade from external negative impacts, as well as allow you to keep a hunting dagger always at hand. A knife for everyday use should be equipped with a collapsible sheath for easy cleaning. Sheath for a hunting knife can be made of leather and wood. Everyone chooses how to make a sheath for a knife.

Wooden scabbard

Necessary:

Saw a suitable bar into two halves. If the handle is made of wood, then it is best to use a bar from the same type of wood.
Outline on each half the contour of the corresponding side of the blade.
According to the outline, make a recess in the two halves of the scabbard to the thickness of the blade. You should slowly adjust the recesses so that the sheath subsequently sits tightly.
Glue the halves strictly along the edges of the recesses. A moderate coat of epoxy should be applied to prevent entry into the blade cavity. If necessary, pre-sand the surfaces to be bonded for a tighter fit. You can also fasten the halves with decorative screws.
Give the final shape with a file or dremel, sand it.

Leather scabbard

You will need:

Make a layout out of paper and tape.
Transfer the pattern to the skin and cut it out, leaving a margin of about 7-10 mm along the seam.
Soak skin in water room temperature minutes for 20-30.
Cut out the thin plastic liner.
Protect the blade with masking tape.
Wrap the knife in soaked, cut leather. Fix the necessary bends (you can use ordinary clothespins).
Make a pendant (trench) and form a hole on its loop. Cut a strip of leather and fold it in half, this will be the pendant.
After the skin has dried, glue the pendant and sew it to the scabbard.
Glue on the plastic insert.
Make an expansion wedge for the top of the scabbard.
Sew the scabbard, after making symmetrical holes.
Soak the sheath and insert the blade into it, then place under the press to give the final shape.
After drying, you can impregnate the leather with shoe wax or special impregnations.

Making a knife from a file

As you know, a good blade made of excellent steel can cost decent money. In such cases, the question arises, how to make a knife with your own hands from improvised materials? An old, unnecessary file will come to the rescue, from which you can make a hunting knife with your own hands.

Tools and materials

Making a hunting knife with your own hands from a file must begin with the selection of the source material, or in a simple "blank". It is best if it is a Soviet file, since at that time they were made of very high quality steel. The shape of the file should be flat rectangular, and preferably diamond-shaped, with a width of about 30-40 mm.

It is necessary to determine what the handle of the future knife will be made of, and prepare materials for it. In addition, you will also need:

epoxy resin;
brass or aluminum rivets;
vise;
sharpening machine;
grinder;
sandpaper of different grain sizes;
magnet (required for hardening);
ferric chloride (for etching).

Step-by-step instruction

First of all, to make a knife with your own hands from a file, draw sketch future knife.
Annealing. We heat the workpiece to about 700 degrees. When you have to make a knife with your own hands at home, you can use a gas stove. To determine the heating, coarse table salt is used, poured onto the heated area, when it begins to melt, which means that the heating is sufficient. After the metal has acquired an even color, it is necessary to keep it in this state for 4 hours. Then the metal should cool slowly.
Blade formation. We cut off everything superfluous with a grinder, we give shape to the future blade. Further, with the help of circles of different grain sizes, they form a descent on the knife with their own hands, a butt, a shank for attaching the handle.
We produce hardening and release of the product.
Grinding and polishing the knife to the finished state. We use sandpaper, gradually reducing its graininess, for polishing we use a felt wheel and Goi paste.
We attach the handle and bring it to the final state by grinding and sanding.
Etching. Important milestone, which is necessary to prevent rust on the blade.

Accessories

Such devices most often include a trencher and a sharpener, as well as hidden holes in the back of the knife and pockets on the sheath.

trench coat

Special loop for attaching the scabbard to the belt. In the manufacture of a trench coat, they are used various materials: rope, cord, leather strip. Making a scabbard with your own hands allows you to make a trench coat from any material at hand.

The trench coat can be glued, sewn, attached with a screw from the inside of the sheath, the main thing is to make a loop with a margin for any width of the belt. The length must be selected individually.

winepress

A small, fine-grained block of stone used to sharpen a knife. The sharpener is attached to the scabbard and is necessary for prolonged use of the blade.

Pockets

Making a knife with your own hands and a sheath for it allows you to fully equip it to your taste. But it is worthwhile to carefully consider the need, and most importantly, the practicality of this or that pocket.

Some craftsmen in the manufacture of handles for knives leave a cavity in the back, in which you can also put small objects.

How to harden steel at home

In fact, steel hardening can be done not only in the forge. It is quite possible to build a small oven in the fresh air or get by gas stove. It is only necessary to create conditions to retain the maximum amount of heat near the knife. To do this, use heat shields, or more simply, metal plates.

The metal must be heated until it acquires a uniform bright red color. At the edge of the blade, the metal is thinner, so it heats up more and can have almost White color. The magnet will help determine the optimal degree of heat. If the magnet has ceased to react to the metal, it must be cooled. It is necessary to cool sharply, we take it with tongs or pliers and dip it into a bucket of water, and some craftsmen advise dipping it into used engine oil.

After the hardening process, the metal remains "stressed" and there is a risk of crumbling. In order to prevent this, metal tempering is carried out. We place the knife in the oven, heated to a temperature of 200 degrees, and leave it for 2 hours, then turn off the oven and let the metal cool together with the oven.

Making a knife with your own hands is a rather laborious task. Even using ready-made drawings for the manufacture of knives and detailed instructions, on the way to success, you can ruin more than one blank, fill more than one callus, get more than one cut. But do not stop there, because everyone can make a blade with their own hands.

An independent manufacturing process gives birth special treatment to his blade, makes you appreciate the work invested in it.

Video

See in the video how to make a hunting knife from a drill with your own hands.

Making scabbards from leather. Walkthrough.

Hello. Recently I was once again allowed to sharpen a knife. Very good, by the way. The knife was successfully sharpened, but then the unfortunate fact became clear: the knife did not have a sheath. Not order. After a short meeting with the owner, a decision was made: to have a scabbard! No restrictions were imposed on me by the owner of the knife, and the implementation of the scabbard remained entirely at my discretion. The only thing we discussed was the material. Our knife is quite traditional and all sorts of fashionable kydex and cordura would not look quite appropriate on it. Therefore, it was decided to make the scabbard out of leather. The material was a valve from an officer's tablet. In total, the production took about five hours, but due to technology, it took five days from start to finish. Further step by step description manufacturing process and photo.

Day 1.
1. From paper and adhesive tape we make a layout pattern for future scabbards and suspension loops.

2. We transfer the pattern to the skin and cut it off, leaving a 7-10 mm tolerance in the area of \u200b\u200bthe future seam.

3. Soak the skin in warm water for about 20 minutes.
4. We cut out and bend the liner from any thin and non-fragile plastic. It is better to additionally scratch the fold line, for example with a nail. The line of the butt of the liner must be straight, regardless of the line of the butt of the blade. It is better to warm up the fold line. The fold should be voluminous. After bending with a clerical knife or file, we bring the liner to symmetry.

5. Protecting the knife cling film or a plastic bag and fix it with narrow stationery tape.

6. When the skin gets wet and becomes soft, wrap the knife around it and fix it with clothespins.

7. With the help of any rod and clothespins, we form a bend on the suspension loop. If you use metal clothespins and a rod, then the metal must be wrapped with tape. Otherwise, stains from rust and paint will remain on the skin.

8. We leave it all to dry for a day or longer. Better hanging.

Day 2
9. We glue the suspension loop with glue Moment or similar. At the same time, we take into account the width of a possible future belt on which the sheath will hang and give a tolerance of 15-20 mm.
10. After the glue dries with a clerical knife or scalpel, we cleanly form the edges of the loop. It is better to cut on a metal ruler.
11. We mark the holes for the threads on the loop and make them. I did it with a 1.8 mm drill.

12. Remove the clothespins from the scabbard and glue the loop to them.
13. After the glue dries, we drill holes through the sheath and sew the loop. For sewing, we tie together a thread with a needle and a thread loop with another needle, as shown in the photo.

14. We thread the thread into the first hole. In this case, we should have a loop with a needle on the outside, and a single thread on the inside of the sheath. We stretch the knot into the skin. When sewing, pliers may be needed. I also used a No. 14 intravenous catheter (needle diameter 1.5 mm) to mark and clear clogged holes.

15. We pass a needle with a loop forward into the next hole. We pass a single thread between the needle and the two threads of the loop. Then we pull the needle with the loop back. We make sure that the resulting interlacing of threads does not crawl out of the scabbard.

16. To secure the thread on the last stitch, we thread a single thread more than once, but wrap it around a double thread three or four times. We gently tighten the twist, making sure that it does not get tangled, and hide it inside the skin.

17. We put the sheath blank, insert and knife together. We measure everything carefully and glue the insert. Let dry under pressure. For example, on a shelf between books. So the press will be stronger and more uniform than on clothespins.

18. We glue the lower 2/3 of the scabbard, leaving a gap at the bottom for water to drain, and put on the clothespins again. We leave to dry.

Day 3
19. With the help of any heated metal wedge (for example, a powerful slotted screwdriver), slightly spread the mouth of the liner to facilitate the entry of the knife into the sheath.

20. Cut out one more detail from the skin trim. This will be an expansion wedge for the mouth of the scabbard. We thin the bottom of the wedge with a clerical knife or sandpaper.

21. We apply a wedge, and if it fits, then glue it into place.
22. With the same clerical knife on a metal ruler, we cut off the excess skin in the area of \u200b\u200bthe future seam, thereby processing the skin cut cleanly.

23. Using a caliper with sharp jaws, mark the line of the future seam on the front side of the scabbard. The indentation from the cut of the skin is 3-7 millimeters. The thicker the skin, the more you can indent.

24. Also, on the front side, mark the holes with an interval of 3-5 millimeters. Drilling.
25. We connect the thread, as shown in paragraph 13.
26. Halfway through the needle with a single thread into the second hole from the bottom. We pass a needle with a double thread into the first hole from the bottom. Then we pass the needle with a double thread through the second hole. Tighten the knot inside the second hole. Thus, our first stitch consists of a double thread, both outside and inside.

27. Next, we sew in the same way as we sewed the suspension loop in steps 15-16.

28. From the same plastic from which we made the liner, we cut out two parts that repeat the shape of the scabbard in the seam area. These will be the pads under the clothespins for uniform compression. Without them, the clothespins will leave ugly traces.

29. Soak the sheath again in warm water for about 10 minutes.
30. We insert a knife protected with cling film or a plastic bag into the soaked sheath. We clamp the seam with clothespins through plastic gaskets, and leave it to dry and final mold for a day or two (preferably in limbo). Using a wire or electric cable at this stage, you can additionally mold the mouth of the scabbard along the handle.

D day 5.
31. We impregnate the dried sheath several times with shoe wax. Wherein Special attention we give the edges of the skin and the seams. To make the wax absorb faster and deeper, it is better to warm up the sheath building hair dryer or just over the gas. Instead of wax or along with it, you can use any shoe polish. With the help of a cream, the skin can be painted in the color you need. When the wax is absorbed, the scabbard is ready. Everything.

If you are the proud owner of a license to carry a knife, a sheath is a must for you. If you don't have them, you can make them yourself.

Show all

How to make a sheath for a hunting knife?

Usually hunting knives are made of Damascus steel, so the sheath must be reliable and strong.

First you need to make a sketch on paper. To do this, lay the knife on paper and outline its contours with a pencil.

Then bend the sheet along the back side of the drawing and cut out the layout along the contour. This is what the end result will be.

Now take a piece of leather and attach a knife blank to it, while the sheath will fit exactly in size. On the skin, draw the same product, only with a margin of one centimeter on each side. What kind of leather can be used? In this example, a chrome-tanned saddle cloth three millimeters thick was used.

Don't forget that you must also cut out a two and a half centimeter wide hanger and a one centimeter wide insert.

The suspension must be made seamless. With any available tool, make holes in it as shown in the figure below.

Cut off the excess and thread the straps through the holes.

In a piece of a knife pattern, the sheath must be equipped with a suspension. To do this, mark and punch three holes.

The width of the straps should be slightly larger than the size of the holes by about two millimeters.

Thread the hangers through the holes.

Thus, you managed to make a suspension without seams.

To continue working on the craft for the knife, you scrape the sheath at the place where the skin is bent. After such processing, you can easily fold the workpiece in the center.

Now the product needs to be glued.

You can use any kind of glue that sticks to the skin.

You can fasten the edges with stationery clothespins. Wait a while for the glue to set. To continue to make products for the knife, the sheath must be completely dry.

After complete drying, cut off the irregularities along the edges with a knife.

Using grinding machine, smooth uneven ends.

Now you need to make a mixture with which you will impregnate the product. To do this, you need to take two measures of vodka and one measure of PVA glue. Stir them together so that the vodka and glue are completely mixed together.

Using a brush, apply the mixture to the craft in several layers.

This impregnation dries in fifteen minutes.

While the craft is not yet dry, mark the seam lines. This can be done using a fork.

She also marks the step of the seams.

Using a one-millimeter drill and a drill, drill holes for the seams on the front side. In this case, the drill must be kept exclusively in a vertical position.

Now cut a groove, connecting all the holes. AT this case this was done with a special Chinese tool.

Now you can paint the craft for the knife. The scabbard can, for example, be stained.

Cover with stain several times to make the color darker.

Once the scabbard is dry, sand it down with sandpaper, increasing the size. First, use one hundred and eightieth size, then two hundred and fortieth and then three hundred and twentieth. At the end, polish with a six hundredth.

Sew the product along the holes using a waxed thread in two needles, the type of seam is saddle.

Now you need to soak the knife sheath with shoe wax.

All is ready!

Sheath for camping knife

When you go out into nature or for a longer vacation, for example, by the sea, you always take with you such a necessary and indispensable item as a knife. So that he does not tear the fabric or the walls of the bag, his blade is wrapped with a rag or newspaper. However, you can do it easier - make a sheath for it, and then you will no longer have such a problem. Below we will describe and show how to make a scabbard.

What materials will be needed

Cotton fabric, which must first be impregnated with resin.
Piece of hard leather good quality.
Strong needle and thread made of nylon.
Clothespins stationery.
Awl.
Pliers.
Drill.
Thin drill.
Calipers.
Well sharpened knife.
Well sharpened cutter.
A piece of strong wire.
Shoe cream for polishing crafts.

How to do?

First you need to make a solid tab, using cotton fabric for this. Cover the tip of the knife with paraffin and form a tab on it.

Now cut out a piece of leather of a suitable size and moisten it thoroughly. Then put the tab on the knife and place it in the center of the cut piece of leather.

Wrap the knife around this piece and fix the ends with stationery clothespins along the seam. Wait until the skin is completely dry.

After complete drying, remove the clothespins.

Now the product can begin to flash. To do this, use an awl to make two holes where the bend begins. Thread the thread from both sides into the holes, as a result you will get one stitch.

Poke the thread into the same holes in reverse order, you get the second stitch.

With an awl, mark the places where the rest of the holes will be. Make sure they are evenly spaced.

Using a drill and a thin drill, drill holes.

Continue to flash the product. If the needle comes out tight, help it out with pliers.

Cut off the ends of the threads and melt them over the fire. The hardest part is over.

With a knife, cut off the excess skin, leaving a little for the stock.

Using an abrasive skin, process the cut line.

Now make a pendant for the scabbard. Take a piece of leather and cut out a U-shaped figure from it. Cut small holes in the top of the workpiece with a knife.

Thread the ponytails through the holes at the top.

Now you pull out the knife from the craft, and instead of it you insert a wooden stick of the same size. Now mark the places where the mounting holes will be.

Using cutters, make holes according to the marks.

Thread the ends of the suspension into the holes as in the photo below.

Almost everything is ready, there are a couple of steps left.

Customize the size of the scabbard. To do this, moisten the knife well and insert it into the craft. Using wire, tighten tightly.

Wait until the skin is completely dry and remove the wire.

Now it remains only to cover the craft with shoe cream. In this case, the knife must be inserted into the sheath, and its handle must be wrapped in a bag.

Third option

In order to make a case of this type, you will need the following materials and tools:

Soft skin of the required size.
Sheet of cardboard.
Simple pencil.
Scissors.
Cutter.
Scotch tape.
Food film.
Kitchen towel.
Hot water in a pot.
Clamps.
Strong needle.
Waxed thread.

How to do?

First, draw a template.

To do this, lay the knife on the cardboard and circle its contours using a pencil. It is not necessary to circle butt, indent the contours by five millimeters. This will come in handy if the skin is thick. Now draw the other half mirror to the first. Draw the edge of one drawn half, it will be equal to the length of the handle. This is necessary so that later you can form a loop for closing the scabbard.

Now cut out the template along the drawn contours.

With the reverse side of the blade, you determine the exact line for bending the workpiece.

Fold the layout, glue it with adhesive tape and try on the knife. This is necessary in order to be able to adjust the dimensions. Do not forget that the cardboard is much thinner than the thin look skin. Make sure that the knife easily enters the workpiece.

Expand the craft and transfer its contours to a piece of leather on the side where the suede is. For this purpose, you can use a pencil. Using a cutter, cut out the shape we need.

Wrap the knife with cling film.

Heat water in a saucepan and lower part of the skin into it as shown in the figure. This will make the skin soft.

Dry a piece of wet leather using a towel, and then wrap it around the blade and fasten the ends with clothespins. Wait for the piece to dry. While the skin dries, periodically checking that it is desired shape. If anything, adjust the product with your fingers, stretching where necessary.

Once everything is completely dry, remove the clothespins.

Cut off excess or protruding pieces of skin using a cutter. Then you cut out a thin recess with it where the seam will pass.

Mark the places where there will be holes for the stitches. There should be a distance of no more than five millimeters between the points. Make indentations at each point using an awl or other sharp object.

Sew the other end of the strap to the opposite side of the scabbard using a needle and waxed thread. Then sew the last seam.

All is ready!

It's time to make your own knife sheath with a birch bark handle.

For this, saddle leather of the collar part with a thickness of 3 mm to 5 mm was used. A smaller thickness was used for the strap with a button and for the waist belt loop.

The contour of the knife was outlined with a felt-tip pen on thick blanks on the wrong sides with an allowance for seam and processing. A liner between the plates was also cut exactly to the size of the blade. Thus, the thickness of the scabbard will be from three layers of leather. Before assembling the scabbard, primitive stamps for hot stamping were made on the front side and on the strap with a button.

To do this, a 1 mm wire is soldered to a suitable part according to the figure. Brass screw cap used.

For stamping an oak leaf, the wire was soldered onto a piece of tinplate and the thickness of the stamp was increased by a set of a sufficient number of plates. The thickness should be such that only the pattern is printed.

It was done hot and with simultaneous pressure. An electric iron was used at maximum heating and pressure for 3-5 minutes. At the same time, the place where the pattern was applied was slightly moistened with water to soften it.

The logo is a stylized Latin letter S.V.M, the son-in-law's initials. Since the knife has a guard, I had to mold the wrong side. Molding takes about an hour under pressure. The skin was also wetted with water. It turned out a neat bend that allows you to sheath it without difficulty.

Under the belt with a width of 50 mm, a loop is molded in the same way.

The assembly of the scabbard included the connection of both sides with an insert between them on the Moment Classic glue

After gluing, before sewing, all ends were processed. Trimming first, then trimming grinder with a circular tape rough. After rough sanding (a very dirty process), the ends were impregnated with second glue to stiffen and finally brought to good quality with finer sandpaper.

With a caliper along the perimeter of the sheath, a risk was carried out and then deepened. The marking of the holes for the thread was made with a fork with sharpened teeth.

Marks were applied with light blows and then holes of 2 m were drilled.