Table for carpentry do-it-yourself drawings. How to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands. Installation of additional equipment

Any economic man needs his own equipped workplace for storing tools and performing carpentry and plumbing work. In this case, a workbench will become a necessary element of the workplace, and now we will tell you how to make a workbench on your own.

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Indeed, to buy it, you will need to shell out a significant amount and, in addition, choosing the right size for your room is a rather difficult task. But if you do it yourself, you can choose the required size of the workbench with an accuracy of up to a centimeter.

What workbenches are

A workbench is a desktop on which the master performs manual work on the processing of wood, metal and other parts. Self-made workbenches are installed in the garage, in the country and even in the apartment. The workbench is equipped with various additional devices that may be needed during work, such as stops and vices. In addition, containers are installed in workbenches for storing various tools and even documentation. By type of work, joinery, carpentry and locksmith workbenches are distinguished.

DIY workbench video:

Carpentry workbench

A standard carpentry workbench has this design. The main parts are the benchtop and the benchtop. Podverstache looks like a rack (usually two), which are interconnected by wooden bars. The material of this table element is usually pine or other soft wood.

The workbench or lid is made of hardwood, such as oak, and has a thickness of up to 8 cm. The surface of the board is covered with drying oil. If you are going to assemble a workbench with your own hands, then you should know what additional devices you need to install on the countertop.

Note!

First of all, it should be a vice located in the front and used to fix parts.

In the back, you need to make a recess for storing small tools in it. On the edge of the workbench there are holes into which wooden chocks and metal combs are inserted. A standard workbench is suitable mainly for manual work, and if you also want to use power tools, then for this you need to choose a workbench with a lot of holes for stops.

locksmith workbench

The locksmith's workbench is a more powerful structure. It has a metal frame, on which a wooden cover up to 6 cm thick and covered with an iron sheet is laid. The lid is edged with a three-sided bead and, in most cases, a bench vise is installed on it. The tabletop on such workbenches is made powerful so that it can withstand high shock loads, including sledgehammers.

The material is chosen at will, but the most popular MDF is galvanized, which allows you to protect the countertop from the influence of aggressive environments such as gasoline, oils or solvents. In addition, this countertop is easy to clean from dirt. The locksmith's workbench is equipped with several retractable drawers for folding tools.

carpentry workbench

Another type of such structures is the carpenter's workbench. This workplace is designed for processing boards and has dimensions that are significantly larger than the previous two options. Its dimensions are up to 6 m long and 1 m wide. A stop for processing the board must be installed on the carpenter's workbench. It has a cutout in the form of a triangle, for fixing the board with wedges, and is used during the processing of its edges.

Making a construction workbench

Let's figure out how to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands. First you need to make a frame of bars, and between the legs, for strength, install a jumper and a drawer (a connecting element that holds the structure together). It is desirable that they be located at a distance of about 45 cm from the floor. The installation of the workbench frame occurs in this order. First you need to prepare the grooves, then assemble the structure and coat the connection points with glue. We carry out the final fastening with the help of clamps.

Worktop for workbench

It is worth recalling that the manufacture of any design occurs more quickly and efficiently if you have at hand at least the simplest drawing of a carpentry workbench or part of it. Below we give a drawing of the table top, top view.

If the countertop is made of several boards, then it is necessary to ensure that there are no gaps between them, in order to avoid, during subsequent work, dust clogging there. The dimensions of the tabletop should be 3-5 cm larger than the workbench itself, for greater ease of cleaning the tool. The tabletop must be processed with a grinder and varnished. This will serve as protection against getting splinters in your hands.

Installing a vice and creating stops

After we have installed the countertop, we need to mount a vise on them. To do this, a recess must be cut out on the work surface so that a vertical plate can be placed in the same plane with the table top. We put the vise in the place where they will stand in the future, it is desirable that this is not a corner, and we make a basting for drilling. Then fasten with nuts.

Note!

Stops can be purchased at the store, or you can make it yourself.

Then we advise you to make them rectangular in shape with the ability to adjust in height. It is desirable to make holes for stops for a length of 50% of the vise travel. In this situation, you can fix different workpieces well. A video instruction for making a workbench can be viewed in our article.

wooden workbench

Making a locksmith's workbench

Let's look at how you can make a locksmith workbench with your own hands.

  1. Determine the height of the future table. For each person, it can be different, for example, if a man is 180 cm tall, then the height of the workbench is 90 cm. But still, for the final decision, you need to focus only on yourself.
  2. Do not forget that the drawings of the locksmith's workbench, drawn by you, will be useful for faster and better assembly.
  3. For a locksmith's workbench, the frame is best welded from a profile pipe and corners, but in extreme cases it can be made in the same way as a carpentry structure, from beams.
  4. To make the structure as strong as possible, you need to put spacers between the legs. Sometimes, instead of spacers, a shelf is installed, in which you can later put the tool, paint and varnish liquids or other necessary items.
  5. For stability of the structure, you can attach the legs to the floor. This will prevent the workbench from shaking while working.
  6. Build a countertop from MDF and galvanize if possible. This will greatly increase its strength.
  7. If you want your workbench to be equipped with drawers, then place skids under the upper bars, similar to those installed for drawers in. Then you will have a storage space for small parts, screws and nails.

Folding workbench

There is another type of workbenches that are used for both carpentry and metalwork. This is a folding workbench. It is very convenient in the absence of extra space in the room. After working on it, you can always fold it and put it in a corner to wait for the next job. In addition, it can be transferred to the country when folded. Such a workbench consists of two parts: a removable workbench and a folding table. It is usually made smaller than a stationary table.

DIY workbench video:

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Since ancient times, skilled craftsmen have sought to equip the workplace as comfortably as possible and, in modern terms, ergonomically, which was considered the key not only to fast and efficient work, but also to safety. In this regard, the premises intended for repair and manual production were filled with all kinds of tables, racks and boxes, the original material for which was wood. Over time, the cheaper metal gradually replaced wood from the construction arena and began to be used for the manufacture of machine tools, metal furniture and various auxiliary equipment, especially relevant in a construction workshop. Since the goods offered by stores often do not meet the specified characteristics, and sometimes they are on a par with industrial equipment, in our article we will share simple tips and tell you how to make a wooden workbench with your own hands.

The main purpose and typical characteristics of the workbench

Regardless of its design features, the workbench is a desktop, necessarily characterized by massive dimensions and stability, and designed for processing structures and products with a wide variety of dimensions. When designing a carpentry workbench, it is important to remember that the dimensions of the processed products directly depend on the dimensions of the workbench, while processing products is practiced both manually and using power tools - a drill and an electric planer. A typical layout of a standard carpentry workbench consists of the following elements:

  • A working surface, for the manufacture of which a massive board is used, the thickness of which is at least 60 mm. For the manufacture of the cover, experts advise giving preference to hardwood, such as oak or beech, using which you do not have to periodically change the working surface of the workbench, due to the high wear resistance of the material.
  • A vice designed to hold workpieces. They are mounted on the front surface of the cover. Massive workbenches provide for the installation of several vices, separately designed for fastening small and large parts. Large vices are made of wood, while choosing a vice of small dimensions, it is better to give preference to metal structures.
  • Bench supports are designed to increase the stability of the overall structure, which are connected by longitudinal strips. For their manufacture, it is desirable to use soft wood, linden or pine.
  • In the space under the workbench, on supports, you can install drawers designed for tools and any other work accessories.

Joiner's workbench: types of design

When developing a workbench project, it is important to take into account its design features, whether it will be installed permanently in the workshop or will be represented by a mobile structure. If you have opted for a mobile design, the best solution would be to lighten it due to the material used, which should be thinner. The mobile workbench can also be modified with a collapsible table top as well as folding legs. In connection with the listed features, there are three types of workbenches:

  • Mobile workbench designed for minor repairs and manipulations with wood blanks;
  • Stationary workbench used for processing solid wood blanks and heavy boards. It is easy to manufacture, but "tied" to one place;
  • A collapsible or “transforming workbench” is convenient with its collapsible design, which facilitates the process of replacing its individual parts, and also increases the mobility of the entire structure. You can learn how to make a retractable workbench in specialized manuals.

Carpentry or locksmith workbench: differences

In addition to the classification presented above, workbenches differ in their purpose. There are carpentry and locksmith workbenches. Since the creation of a metal workbench is fraught with a number of difficulties, in this guide we will tell you how to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands.

Dimensions and location of the workbench

In the process of creating a workbench, it is important to choose the right location for it. It should be in close proximity to natural light sources, if any. Local light sources will also not be superfluous. We must not forget about electrical outlets, which should also be close to the workbench. All wires located in the working area are preferably enclosed in a corrugated pipe or box.

Before proceeding with the construction of the workbench, experts recommend determining its final height. To do this, lower your hands down, after which place your palms parallel to the floor. The distance between the floor and the palms is the same desktop height that is most convenient for you. Since home-made workbenches are often designed for a single workplace, the table is 1.5 m long and 0.8 m wide.

How to make a workbench video

How to make a workbench in the garage: selection of materials

The selection of material for the manufacture of a workbench is an important stage of the whole work, which determines the final strength and stability of the structure being constructed. Before you make a carpenter's workbench, let's talk about the rational choice of materials needed to make it. According to experts, for the construction of a workbench, planed timber will be the best material, which is suitable for the manufacture of a frame frame and legs.

Ideal dimensions of planed timber:

  • for legs - 100x70 mm;
  • for jumpers - 100x50 mm;

For countertops, it is better to choose boards with a thickness of 5 cm, or a solid canvas, such as an old wooden door or chipboard, characterized by a laminated surface. It is important to know that it is better to give preference to hardwoods such as oak, maple and beech.

How to make a workbench table? Sequencing

The manufacture of a workbench includes several stages, the fundamental of which are:

  • Base assembly;
  • Tabletop installation;
  • Installation of equipment on a workbench.

Base assembly

The base, as a structural element of the workbench, is a wooden frame, the fastening of which is carried out in such a way that the structure meets all the requirements of rigidity and stability. For this purpose, it is necessary to provide for the installation of a horizontally located jumper between the legs of the workbench, and in the middle, along the entire length of the structure, it is important to install the drawer. Both the jumpers and the tsarga are fixed at a distance of 40-50 cm from the floor. Subsequently, they can be used not only to strengthen the structure, but also to install shelves and drawers for improvised tools. When constructing the base, the bars are fixed by means of a tenon-groove connection, and in those places where this is not possible, self-tapping screws are used. It is preferable to first prepare the grooves and spikes, according to the existing drawing, and only then glue the joints of the beams with wood glue.

If you're building a stationary workbench, one or more of the frame pieces can be attached to the wall, further strengthening the final structure.

Countertop fabrication and installation

  • Thinking through the stages of manufacturing the countertop, we must not forget that it should be slightly larger than the base. From the previously prepared thick boards, a massive shield of the previously indicated dimensions is knocked together, for the fastening of which long nails are used, driven in from the inside of the boards. Used boards are pre-fitted to each other to prevent debris from entering the existing slots. For the installation of the tabletop, the use of materials for the manufacture of which pressed chips were used is excluded, since they do not meet the requirements for its stability. Several transverse bars are nailed to the tabletop, for which it is necessary to provide grooves in the base. To these jumpers, with the help of self-tapping screws, horizontally oriented rails are attached, which are needed to slide the drawers.

  • The tabletop is bolted to the base. To do this, a recess is made in the upper part of the base bars, using a chisel, and holes are drilled in the tabletop for bolts, the heads of which are recessed in the lid by drilling recesses of the appropriate diameter in the tabletop. In order to avoid injuries from falling chips in the process of subsequent work, the countertop is polished several times and covered with drying oil.

Equipment installation

  • A vise is attached to the installed tabletop, for the installation of which recesses in the end face of the tabletop should be provided. In the place where the vise is installed, plywood is attached to the underside of the countertop. When installing a vice, they are first applied, the place of their fastening is marked, and then fixed with nuts and bolts. Remember that the vise should not be located on the edge, which contributes to the displacement of gravity during operation.

  • In addition to the vice, the classic workbench equipment is wooden clamps, a high-power stationary drill, certain types of turning equipment, and a milling element. In the conditions of a summer residence, it will also be useful to install a grinder and a circular. When installing equipment on a workbench, it is important to consider all the details of convenience and safety, as well as to check the strength of all fasteners. If the equipment is powered by an electrical network, it is important to correctly calculate the power of the equipment connected at the same time, as well as to correctly connect the connection itself.

How to design and make a universal workbench?

This article did not consider in detail the process of manufacturing a metal workbench, and also does not explain how to make an iron workbench in view of the complexity of this process, however, we consider it necessary to consider the option of combining the metalwork and carpentry workbenches, which is especially important in the conditions of country houses and plots.

For this, the same workbench is made, as given in the instructions, however, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe working surface is slightly increased. Sometimes this may require strengthening the base through the use of additional frame elements. When the countertop is installed, one half is covered with a sheet of thin stainless steel, which is fixed with self-tapping screws. Ideally, they cover not only the top of the countertop, but also its end elements.

A home master must have a comfortable place, this is a guarantee not only of convenience and speed of work, but also of safety. High-quality European-made workbenches cost like industrial equipment, Chinese and handicraft assembly - they are not reliable. However, you can make a good workbench with your own hands, because, in fact, this is a table equipped with various fixtures, stops and a place to store tools.

Workbench project

The height of the workbench depends on the height of its owner, it should be comfortable while standing, without stooping to perform basic operations. For an average height, this is usually 70-90 cm. The configuration of the workbench and the necessary fasteners and fixtures depend on what operations are most often performed on it, but provide for several stops and a pair of screw vices or clamps (). You also need to take into account which hand the owner of the workbench works with.

Workbench scheme - the first option

The width and length of the workbench depend on the area of ​​the workshop, it is convenient if the length of the workbench is at least 2 meters, and the width is 80-100 cm. It is convenient if boxes or cabinets for storing tools and consumables are mounted under the workbench.

When designing a workbench, you need to consider whether it will be permanently installed in the workshop or constantly assembled and disassembled. In the second case, it would be reasonable to lighten the structure due to a material of smaller thickness. In a collapsible workbench, you can make an unscrewing tabletop, or you can provide for folding legs.

It is better to have a workbench by the window, additional local lighting is also required. Directly next to the workbench, you need to provide several electrical outlets for equipment. All wires near the working area must be enclosed in a box or corrugated pipe.

Selection of materials

The optimal material for the workbench is planed timber, from which the frame frame and legs will be made. For legs, you can take it with a size of 100 * 70 mm, and for jumpers - 100 * 50 mm. The table top can be made from flat boards 5 cm thick. It can also be made from a single piece of fabric, for example, an old blank door or laminated chipboard with a fairly durable coating. For a workbench, it is better to choose hardwoods, preferably beech, oak or maple. Thicker timbers and boards will make the workbench heavier and more stable, and it will be more comfortable to work on it.

Fasteners for the manufacture of a workbench are selected taking into account whether it will be prefabricated or collapsible. Self-tapping screws, nails and nuts with bolts will come in handy.

Before building a workbench, you need to pick up a vice. It is convenient if there are 2 of them - on the right side and on the left in front. In the first, you can fix long boards, and in the second, you can clamp short parts. The most versatile jaw width is 175 mm.

Scheme of the second version of the workbench

We build a workbench. Base

The manufacture of the workbench takes place in 2 stages: assembly of the base and installation. At each stage and during each operation, you need to control the size of the parts and the evenness of their installation using a level.

The base is a frame of bars fastened in such a way that the structure is as rigid as possible. To do this, a horizontal jumper is placed between the legs of the workbench, and in the middle, along the length, a drawstring is provided. Lintels and drawers are placed 40-50 cm from the floor, then shelves for storing tools can be installed on them. The bars for the base are combined with a tongue-and-groove connection, gluing it. In places where this is not possible, self-tapping screws are used. If it is assumed that the workbench will be disassembled, then the parts of the support frame can be connected using metal corners. Usually, grooves and spikes are first prepared, according to the drawing, and then the entire structure is assembled at once, gluing the joints with wood glue and fixing them with clamps.

A good option for a stationary workbench, if one or more parts of the support frame can be screwed to the wall, then the construction will be even more reliable. Strength can be increased by using diagonal jumpers or wedge-shaped inserts between the legs and the upper part of the frame from the same beam, which are fastened with self-tapping screws. The narrow ends of the upper part of the frame must also be connected with a jumper.

Table top and useful accessories

If the countertop is constructed from separate boards, then they need to be properly driven to each other so that debris does not get into the cracks. The size of the countertop should be a few centimeters larger than the base, so that it is convenient to work and clean it. The boards are nailed or screwed to 3 bars located across the boards on the back of the tabletop. At the base, you need to provide grooves for these bars.

The board top is carefully sanded several times and coated with a protective solution, preferably oil or drying oil, to avoid injury from chips during further work. The tabletop is screwed to the base with metal corners.

A vise is attached to the finished tabletop, under them it is necessary to provide a recess in the end of the tabletop so that the vertical plate forms one plane with it. The underside of the workbench will also require a plywood gasket. The jaws of the vise should be flush with the table top. Applying a vise, mark the place for the holes and fasten them with bolts and nuts (M12 will do). The holes for the bolt heads must be pre-milled so that they completely sink into them. The vise should not be located in the very corner, so as not to disrupt it under heavy load.

In addition to the vise on the workbench, it is necessary to provide stops. You can fix the finished ones by drilling a hole of the desired diameter in the countertop, or make them yourself. It is not worth using bolts or round dowels instead of stops, since the bolts can damage the workpieces with their heads, and the dowels do not fix the parts well enough.

It is easier to make rectangular stops, or pegs, which are both height-adjustable for different parts and securely fix them. Under them, you need to make holes in the countertop or build it up with the help of bars of suitable thickness, screwed to its edge, and closed with a bar on the other side. The nests should be located at a distance of half from each other from the vise stroke so that any workpiece can be fixed.

The pegs themselves are sawn from hardwood, you can make them with a “spring” that is screwed to the base, or you can just make them rectangular. Rectangular stops can be slightly expanded upwards, then they will be fixed in the sockets more reliably.

Building a carpentry workbench with your own hands is not an easy task, but then this workplace will be able to serve the owner for a long time, acquire useful parts and fixtures and adapt to the specific needs of each craftsman.

When a major renovation is underway in a home, it is essential that everything is at hand at any time, which will allow you to make the most of your time. To do this, it is important to properly organize the workplace of the home master, if he is used to doing everything with his own hands. During repair or construction, a significant place is occupied by woodwork. However, sawing timber on a stool or bench is inconvenient and long. Rational use of time and resources will help the desktop, also known as the workbench. Make it possible at home.

For most men, the garage is both a “home” for a car, and a storage room and a workshop at the same time.

Not every owner believes that a workbench is constantly needed on the farm: it is needed only for the period of repair or reconstruction of the building, so he prefers to rent it. But such an opinion is erroneous, especially if he is the owner of a household standing on the ground. The carpentry workbench that appeared on the farm will be a real help for him. Having made such a design, the owner receives a number of advantages compared to using a workbench rented or bought in a building supermarket.

  1. He will save a significant amount of money, which he can use for further home improvement.
  2. Gain additional management experience and practical skills.
  3. Get at your disposal a comfortable desktop, suitable for processing parts made of wood and metal.
  4. If the owner makes a workbench with his own hands, he can use it at any time.

Therefore, in one room (well, if there is a basement) it is necessary to place racks and a workplace.

Table types

There are various types of workbenches that have different purposes.

  1. Joiner's workbench for the manufacture of wooden parts. It is convenient to process small wooden products on it, but is not intended for primary processing of wood. For him, you need a countertop three meters long and one meter wide. Details on it are fixed with wooden horizontal and vertical clamps.
  2. The carpentry fixture is much larger in all respects and heavier. Tree trunks are processed on it, boards, timber and other wood blanks are cut.
  3. Universal table allows you to work with wood and metal; its table top is reinforced with metal band and has wood and metal clips.

There is a table for locksmith work and car maintenance in almost every garage.

There is another definition of the types of structures according to the possible location.

  1. Mobile (portable). Used to perform small work with small parts. It is comfortable and light enough. It can be easily moved from one place to another. The carpenter's table is equipped with a vice of small or medium size, which allows it to be used for small plumbing work.
  2. The stationary desktop is massive and stable. It is possible to process lumber on it, but such a workbench is unlikely to be useful to a home craftsman if he does not constantly engage in woodworking.
  3. Prefabricated on connections using bolts. This is a kind of transformer: at any time it can be supplemented with special equipment and make the necessary changes, depending on the tasks being solved.

And as a rule - it is self-made, that is, made taking into account the characteristics of a particular room.

What type of construction the home master chooses depends on what goals and objectives he sets:

  • a desktop is needed for processing small parts and manufacturing small products only for the period of repair and construction work;
  • the owner will constantly use it and work with small volumes of wood parts;
  • a workbench will be needed to carry out the primary processing of wood, turning it into boards, timber on an ongoing basis;
  • it is intended to use the table for occasional processing of small wood and metal parts.

The shape and dimensions are determined by the configuration of the room.

Experienced home craftsmen claim that even a novice owner who does not have the skills to handle metalwork tools can make a product.

A garage workbench is often compared to a desk because it provides the convenience of a variety of jobs and makes it possible to keep all the necessary tools at hand.

Material selection

To make a workbench with your own hands, the master needs wood and metal. If you intend to make a small table, then a wooden base will be suitable for it. Laminated chipboard, pressed plywood with a thickness of at least 5 - 7 cm is suitable for the countertop. For a stationary table, you can use well-planed boards, tightly fitted to each other, and partially - metal.

In addition to the countertop, it has a large number of shelves and drawers.

And if at the disposal of the home master there is an unnecessary desk, then it will become a good basis. It is also convenient because it already has several drawers or compartments for storing tools.

The workplace of a motorist must be durable and stable.

An old door made of solid canvas will find application in the design. It will make an excellent durable countertop that does not even require processing.

Cabinets with tools and consumables (drills, hacksaw blades, rags, etc.) must be placed under the table.

The use of improvised materials available on the farm to make a carpentry table with your own hands will save time and money for the home craftsman.

It is irrational to make a monolithic cabinet out of the table, you need to put your legs somewhere during sedentary work.

You can make your own workbench out of metal. It will be strong, reliable and heavy. But experience shows that an intermediate option is considered the most acceptable, when the frame and cover of the workbench are made of wood, and then sheathed with sheet metal.

However, both sides should be, if not sets of drawers, then at least a set of shelves.

A home craftsman who decides to make a workbench with his own hands will need a certain set of materials. What is needed for this, he knows well.

The workbench in the garage should not be part of the rack, therefore, the wall above it is a place for hanging tool storage.

And for those who do not yet have sufficient experience, we have compiled a list of everything necessary for its manufacture:

  • metal corner;
  • steel strip and galvanized iron sheet;
  • plywood;
  • screws;
  • anchor bolts;
  • square pipe;
  • wooden planks ;
  • self-tapping screws for metal;
  • dye.

Both metal and wooden workbench have the right to life.

What tools will be needed

A self-made small wooden carpentry workbench will take its rightful place in the home workshop. You don't need a lot of tools to make it.

You can always put a piece of plywood or hardboard on a steel sheet, and a galvanized sheet on a wooden surface.

You will need a standard set that can be found in every home:

  • screwdriver;
  • roulette;
  • Bulgarian;
  • electric jigsaw or hand saw;
  • a hammer.

First of all, we determine the ergonomics of the workplace.

Depending on what material will be used for the carpentry workbench, the list of materials and tools may vary. For example, to make a metal desktop, you cannot do without a welding machine and electrodes.

The height of the workbench should be such that you do not have to bend your back, and at the same time, stand on tiptoe.

Where to put?

Before starting work, it is important to immediately determine for what and how often the table will be used, where it will be placed. You can't do without a drawing. The answers to these questions will determine its dimensions, material and manufacturing procedure.

The best place to place the device can be considered that part of the room (garage or barn), where there is natural light. It is also important that there are electrical sockets near the workbench to connect power tools and a lamp. It is best if the light falls from the left or straight, then the working surface of the table will be illuminated during the day.

Design the dimensions of your work area.

Then the parameters of the future design are determined. Despite the existing standards regarding the size of the table, if you make a carpentry workbench with your own hands, the home master will proceed from expediency and the actual space available, so the tabletop will be such that tools and parts are freely placed here, without strict adherence to dimensions. The width is usually 50-60 cm; this size is considered optimal, as it allows you to freely reach the opposite edge of the countertop.

The typical vertical table size is in the range of 850-950 mm.

Another important parameter is the height of the workbench. There are various ways to determine it, ranging from exact mathematical calculations to folk experience, which proposes to consider the distance from the extreme point of the arm bent at the elbow to the floor as the optimal indicator. An experienced craftsman can make it adjustable.

A perforated metal sheet is perfect as a wall for placing tools.

After determining the main parameters of the product, you can proceed with the assembly.

  1. First, the legs are fixed (four supports from a steel corner, which are also connected by corners and fixed by welding from above and below.). The result is a rectangular welded structure.
  2. After the frame is made, they begin to prepare the countertop. Boards cut to size are laid out on top of the frame and tightly fastened. The tabletop is connected to the frame with bolts. The working surface must be processed: planed and sanded. The bottom must be secured with crossbars or wooden blocks. They are screwed to each of the elements of the resulting shield.

After fixing it, you need to cover the cover with metal (it is better if it is galvanized). The metal sheet is fixed on the surface of the countertop with self-tapping screws. If burrs form, they must be cleaned.

The workpieces should be cut before the start of welding.

The main work on the manufacture of the workbench is completed at this point, but to make the structure more rigid and attach to the floor, metal corners can be welded from below. Optionally, it can be equipped with drawers, shelves for tools.

We reinforce all welded joints with a corner or a steel strip.

Of the necessary equipment on the workbench, you must definitely find a place for a vice. They are hung on the front side of the tabletop and are used to fasten products. If there are often large parts in the work, there is a need to install several vices of different sizes.

The key is to reinforce all 90° joints.

Under the workbench, you can mount shelves where you can place various fixtures, the right tool, or fold the processed parts.

Be sure to impregnate the tree with an antiseptic and fire impregnation.

Carefully made with your own hands, the carpentry workbench will become a convenient tool for the work of a home craftsman.

This design is close to the ideal of a do-it-yourself garage workbench.

VIDEO: do-it-yourself workbench.

Creating a workbench with your own hands: 50 photo ideas

May 09 2017

Folding workbench in workshop blueprint.

So, I finally made a couple of folding workbenches in my workshop, which now save a lot of free space in my small workshop. I got the idea from the Internet, but I drew all the drawings on my own to fit my needs and sizes.

In principle, based on my subsequent descriptions, you can assemble such a workbench on your own, just put your head and hands on it. But if you are too lazy, then I can provide you with materials on which I worked myself ( drawing, detailing, proportions and dimensions). This will save you time and effort. The cost of the package is 300 rubles - in fact - not money, but how much you value your time is up to you.

Let's move on to the traditional for "golden hands" detailed description of the manufacturing process. As a material for my future workbench, I chose 15 mm birch plywood, the stocks of which I had quite decent. With the help of his plunge-cut saw with a tire, he cut the parts of the required size.

First, I assembled the base box. All joints, in addition to confirmations, were smeared with carpentry glue.

The bottom is solid, two side walls, a rear and an inner rib are attached to it.

Cut out strips for the racks. We try them on the side walls of the carrier box.

We coat them in pairs with glue, which is desirable to be evenly distributed over the surface to be glued.

Having tightened with clamps according to the dimensions obtained as a result of fitting, we fix them with self-tapping screws. Excess squeezed out glue is wiped with a rag.

We cut strips of the same width but shorter, which are strikers mounted on the supporting frame of the tabletop. On all blanks, using a grindstone, I marked the rounding of the edge and the central holes.

With a jigsaw, I roughly filed this circle with an allowance of a couple of millimeters.

Then, using a belt sander, we bring the form to the marking lines.

Here are the details.

We drill the central holes in the racks and counterparts

Having smeared the junction with glue, we attract them with self-tapping screws in the center of the carrier box.

We do this symmetrically, as a result, we get such a design.

We attach swivel wheels from to the bottom of the carrier box using M10 cage nuts - they are the cheapest, but, as practice has shown, the option is not the best. It was necessary to put the wheels with clamps.

To insert a drawer inside the carrier box, I added the thickness of the side walls to the vertical racks with additional spacers.
We turn to the manufacture of folding legs. Similarly, we cut the strips and trim them on a miter saw. In the same way, we mark the roundings and the center.

We glue and fasten the manufactured parts with self-tapping screws

After that, we bring the assembled legs to the shape on the LSHM.

In the same way, using glue, we assemble the underframe for confirmations.

We glue the counter parts of the supports from the inside.

Trial put the supports, fixing them on the bolts and adjusting the final dimensions in place

We make a trial assembly and transformation tests.

After that I sanded all visible surfaces

In addition, I reinforced the vertical bearing racks with a couple more details that I sanded in place.

I replaced simple furniture bolts with round caps, no thread under the cap and a square base. Having laid a washer under the nut (with protection against unwinding), we assemble the structure again.

In the end part, I chose a pair of windows for small things with a milling cutter. They can be made anywhere.

On top, I put an inset worktop made from my old workbench. So far this is how it turned out.

The next step is the installation of synchronizing parts. They allow during the transformation to fold / unfold the legs synchronously with the bearing support.

In order for them not to rest against the bolts, I chose niches in these jumpers with a Forstner cutter.

As a result, it turned out like this. You can put an additional shelf on these parts - a simple workbench is much more convenient to use with it. But my workbench is not simple, so let's move on. I did not dwell on additional components, such as drawers, lids, etc. I'll tell you a secret, I still haven't finished them))), so I'm showing only supporting structures.

When folded, the workbench looks like this. Between the front (folding supports) it is necessary to put another side on the side, otherwise the table is not very stable and the legs do not fall synchronously, which makes jamming possible.


In the unfolded as follows: The table top with a hole serves to reinforce.

Then another tabletop is attached to it from above, exceeding the dimensions of the underframe. I subsequently mounted a milling cutter and a table saw into it (I will talk about this separately).

After all the manipulations, I got such a movable harvester, which, if necessary, can be easily folded and put into a corner.

By the same principle, I assembled another workbench - an assembly one - it is located in the foreground. The tabletop in it is made of 26 mm laminated chipboard.

Workbenches are slowly being finalized. The assembly one is already completely finished (although I still plan to make holes in it for clamps and some interchangeable equipment) .. As a result, the workshop has taken this form so far.


Optimization work continues. But I am already very satisfied with the intermediate result.

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