Joinery work on the manufacture of windows is considered to be one of the most difficult, it requires considerable skill and understanding of window construction. Do not flatter yourself and think that a wooden window can be made on your knee, with a couple of simple carpentry tools. In the process of making a wooden window with your own hands, the carpenter has to spend a lot of time and effort preparing the material and making additional hanging elements, from glazing beads to awnings and fittings. Therefore, wooden windows simply cannot be cheap and at the same time of high quality if they were made by hand.

How to make a wooden window

In addition, you will need equipment for cutting grooves, cutting chamfers and internal transitions, otherwise it simply will not work to make a wooden window with high quality. To build a window you will need:

• A circular saw;
• Milling cutter for wood easel and manual;
• Grooving and slotting machine;
• Hand drill, tape measure, a set of carpentry clamps.

The window can be completely blank, for example, if you plan to make glazing in a barn, garage or utility room. For residential premises, as a rule, a ventilation system is used with the help of a window leaf and an opening sash. General form window device is shown in the photo. It is possible to make the main part of the window frame in the presence of tools, equipment and prepared material in a day, if you have a clear idea of ​​\u200b\u200bhow to make a wooden window with your own hands, and drawings for the manufacture of the main parts.

Note! In order to make a window with an opening sash, you must first prepare a set of canopies and two window locks.

It is clear that before making a window out of wood, it is necessary to take the dimensions of the window opening and the box into which it will be inserted window block. AT this case a window will be made with an opening sash-window window measuring 130x110 cm.

What is the best way to make a window

In order to make a wooden window quickly and efficiently, you first need to choose quality material. Forget about oak, larch, Karelian pine, all kinds of options for making a window frame from glued laminated timber. In order to make a wooden window soundly the first time, you need to buy a well-dried pine blank without knots, without fiber defects and traces of wood damage by microflora or bark beetles.

To make a wooden window frame, we need:

• Three blanks 115 cm long and 40x140 mm in section for vertical window pillars;
• Two blanks 140 cm and a section of 40x140 mm for horizontal crossbars;
• Two blanks of 50 cm each and two blanks of 110 cm each, with a section of 40x50 mm, for the manufacture of an opening sash.

Note! All workpieces must have an ideal geometry, without "propeller" and cracks.

If wooden blanks long time stored outside, before starting work, allow the material to mature and gain initial moisture. Wooden planks and beams should not be dried in the sun, in drafts or in a warm, dry room. It is clear that processing wood blanks protective compounds it is necessary in advance, after which the material is folded into operation and dried thoroughly. If possible, for the first experiment, it is better to make a stock of blanks, since often, due to errors, it is necessary to redo or restore joints or entire elements of the wooden window frame.

How to make a wooden window

If you have at your disposal necessary equipment, then cutting the material under wooden frame it’s quite easy to make it on the window in 2-3 hours, you will need a circular saw and a groove cutter.

The order of work is as follows:

• Quarters are stretched on vertical and horizontal blanks;
• Wooden beams are trimmed and cut to size for assembly;
• At the ends of the blanks, an undercut is made for a corner connection into the frame;
• On the central crossbar and the left pillar, a selection is cut out for the arrangement of the opening sash.

It remains to assemble a wooden window box, make a window, install awnings and fittings. In order to install canopies and make locks, you will need to spend at least 4 hours. About as much as it took to make the main part of the frame.

Making a wooden window frame

The first operation for joiners involved in the manufacture of wooden windows is called the selection of quarters. In plain language, this means making rectangular cuts at the ends of the blanks, which, after assembling the frame, will be used to install glasses. Groove dimensions 10x12 mm.

On the side vertical racks, the selection must be made at the corners of the wide side of the beam, facing the inside of the frame. On the central vertical rack, quarters are selected along all four faces of the timber.

This can be done on a circular saw, a hand mill or any end mill. If the tree is very dry, then before cutting the corner grooves, it is necessary to remove a small chamfer from the edges. This will avoid chipping.

After milling the quarters, it is necessary to trim the vertical posts and horizontal crossbars to size. That is, the vertical posts are cut to fit 104 cm. The design height of the window is 110 cm. The thickness of the horizontal crossbars of a wooden window is 40 mm. In order to ensure that the vertical post is inserted into the upper corner of the horizontal beam, it is necessary to make a sample of 10 mm in it, the rest of the body is 30 mm. The same selection must be made for the lower corner and horizontal beam.

The vertical post must be installed in the upper and lower recesses on the crossbars. This means that the size of the rack is 1100-2x30 \u003d 1040 mm or 104 cm. In a similar way, you need to trim the second side and central pillar of a wooden window.

Let's make lateral selections in the horizontal beams of the window under the sidewalls.

With the side posts, everything is more or less clear, it remains to choose a place for the grooves in the upper and lower crossbars to install the central post, on which the opening sash of the wooden window will close.

For the opening sash, we selected four wooden bars, two of 110 cm and two of 50 cm. At the ends of the upper and lower horizontal beams, we have already made samples of 40 mm. Set aside the width of the future sash from the edge - 45 cm.

On each transverse beam we make two cuts hand saw to a depth of 10 mm and cut a groove 40 mm wide.

We assemble a box of a wooden window using self-tapping screws.

We make an opening sash and install it on the frame

Unlike the box, we will assemble the wooden frame of the sash on tongue-and-groove joints. This connection option will provide high rigidity of the frames and guarantee the absence of deformation and sagging of the sash. If you try to make it on self-tapping screws or even on the corners, the sash will still deform and crack the glass.

First you need to cut grooves in horizontal segments with a cutter. Best suited for these purposes end mill or a groove cutter, but in their absence, the grooves can be made manually with an ordinary chisel and a mallet.

On the vertical racks of the sash, spikes 40 mm long are cut out. Before making spikes, it is necessary to make a selection of quarters under glass, as was done earlier for a large box.

We assemble the frame on spikes, after having smeared the joints with carpentry glue. After an hour and a half, the assembled sash frame is doweled and ground along the plane of the sash to the main wooden frame of the window.

The size of the sash frame is 50x1100 mm. In order for the sash to close into the window opening, it is necessary to cut a sample along the perimeter of the frame in the size of 1040 mm.

The sash frame of the wooden window is almost ready, now it easily fits into the main box. It remains to make canopies and install locks. Small window hinges can be used as awnings, but their installation is quite long and requires careful cutting of hidden grooves for awnings. In addition, strength conventional canopy not enough for a heavy sash, and sculpting three loops will already be ugly. Therefore, barrels with pinned fastening are used as canopies.

You can install the barrel in a couple of minutes, but only if there is an appropriate tool for drilling holes in the frame and sash. The problem of installing the barrel is how to perform perfectly precise drilling in the wooden beam of the frame at an angle of 45 o, the drill diameter is 6.8 mm, the thread on the barrel is M8. Trying to do this by eye does not make sense, it is better to spend an extra hour, but to achieve a high-quality result.

In order to make a fixture, you will need an oak bar with a section of 40x40 mm. one facet wooden block cut along the entire length. The bar is exposed to drilling machine and drilled exactly diagonally.

On the reverse side of the bar, a quarter of 6x12 mm is selected along the edge. This is necessary so that the fixture fits tightly and rigidly on the edge of the sash and frame of the wooden window.

Before drilling the sash and frame, you need to make markings for installing the barrel. To do this, we apply the risk of installing a canopy on the frame, step back up the rack by 13 mm and transfer the risk to the sidewall of the sash, along which drilling will be performed for the counterpart of the barrel.

After drilling the holes, it remains to wrap the barrel screws into the frame and into the sash, after which you can hang the sash on the installed canopies.

Cut handles and finish

It remains to make pens and execute finishing wooden window. For convenience, it is best to use balcony handles with hidden locks of domestic production made of steel, aluminum ones will not work, they last for 2-3 months, no more.

We fix the sash on the frame with clamps. On the front part we mark the points for the output of the lock handles. From the points we transfer the line to the end plane of the sash. To install the lock, you need to make groove milling. It will be most convenient to cut the groove with manual router with 8mm drill. The depth of milling the groove is 28 millimeters, it is impossible to drill less - the lock will not fit, more - too, can break through wooden beam through.

At the second stage, you need to mill a shelf to hide the mounting flange of the lock. Next, you need to drill holes for the installation of handles and fix the "ears" of the handles on the wooden plane of the sash.

To install the reciprocal part of the lock, you need to get the entry point of the lock tongue on the frame. To do this, simply turn with a little effort to make a dent in the surface of the B-pillar. We cut a groove along this dent and install the reciprocal metal bar of the lock.

Conclusion

Before assembling the window, it is necessary to carefully sand the entire surface of the frame and sash, especially the ends and quarters. After grinding, we process wooden surface impregnation, varnishing and installation of glass. After the varnish or oil-paraffin impregnation has dried, we sew up the glass with a glazing bead and install locks and slats, and the wooden window is almost ready.

wooden window modern home- the product is quite complex. But think about it, complex means that it is composed of several simple ones. It doesn't matter how many there are simple steps, ten or one hundred. If you move consistently, then everything will work out.

Let's imagine what the future window will look like. Let's say you need a window that can be slightly opened for ventilation, but can also be opened wide to let more fresh air into the room. Modern fittings allow you to combine both functions in one sash. However, it is in this part that we will make the window “the old fashioned way”. There will be a small window at the top, and a large sash at the bottom. In addition, the window will be vertically divided into two parts. Left side deaf, right, where the sash and the window are located, - opening. The final window should look something like this:

Now we take the dimensions of the future window:

The dimensions of the window opening are 112 by 136 cm. It will be necessary to leave 1.5 cm gaps on each side for foaming. So 1.5 on the right plus 1.5 on the left adds up to 3 centimeters. Similarly, we consider the size vertically. The total dimensions of the window frame will be 109 by 133 cm.

Window frame manufacturing. Layer one.

The first step is to take care of lumber. Using clippings coniferous board"fifties" of sufficient length. They were aged for two seasons and dried out well.

You cannot use a raw board. If you got a raw board, then you can do the following. After sawing it into blanks, lay them on hot batteries. They will dry out in two or three months.If you do not want to wait for this period, look for those who are engaged in carpentry, makes wooden kitchens, furniture and the like. Often they have drying chambers, in which drying generally takes no more than an hour. It will be inexpensive.

We saw boards with a thickness of 50 mm into segments along the length. Our lengths are 109 by 133 cm. When mounting the frame, one of these “lengths” will decrease by almost 10 cm. But more on that later. For the time being, it is better to file the trimmings with a margin of several centimeters. Let's make a length of 115 by 140 cm. A little later it will become clear why this stock is needed.

Next, you need to cut the segments in width, which will be 65 mm. The thickness of the blanks will remain 50 mm, that is, the thickness of the board. My circular saw there is a special bar that allows you to fix the width of the cut:

Now we file blanks of the same width, and then additionally cut off another blank 140 cm long, but already wider - 7.5 cm.

If you try to measure the actual thickness of the "fifty" boards, you will find that there is not one exactly 50 millimeters among them. Their thickness will “walk” from 45 to somewhere up to 52 mm:

It's not scary. There are no boards of the same thickness in nature, and this should not be embarrassing.

And one more thing. Of course, we try to choose blanks without knots. But, if you reject all boards with knots, a lot of wood will go to waste. The frame will subsequently be glued together, and no more than two sides will remain “in sight” of the blanks. Therefore, in some cases, you can use blanks with knots. Here, for example, is a board that, it would seem, will not work for anything. But after sawing into blanks, it is clear that only the middle bar will go into marriage. The two extremes can be used.

Now we pass the blanks with a planer at a time. We “set” the planer almost to the very minimum:

This will be enough to remove the “fringe” remaining after sawing from the board.

Now you can roughly lay out the future window frame from the blanks:

We cut the blanks to the estimated lengths. It's time to say why these lengths were originally sawn off with a margin. The fact is that when we pass the blanks with a planer, at the end of the planer, as it were, “dives”, making a “wave”.

Thanks to the available length reserve, we saw off this “wave”. We mark the place of sawing off on two sides of the workpiece at once, so that the cut does not “go to the side”

First, we cut the bars 133 cm long. The first bar is measured with a tape measure, the second, using the already sawn one.

The width of the frame, as we remember, is 109 cm, but the horizontal bars will be shorter in length by almost 10 cm. We measure them in this way, using those that have already been sawn off with a length of 133 cm. We measure 109 cm taking them into account:

Now we grind the blanks. For coarse sanding, a belt sander can be used to smooth out the small "waves" left by the planer. There are models that are attached to the workbench. By the way, very convenient:

For fine finishing, it is better to take a small vibrating grinder. We also remove the chamfer with it, that is, we round the sharp edges of the bars. Well, in the end, be sure to “zero” manually.

By the way, it is not necessary to carefully grind the workpieces from all sides. You can limit yourself to those faces that will later turn out to be “front”. Grinding the edges, which then "go into gluing" is not necessary.

Is there any point in having grinding machines of two types. The draw frame is more powerful and is suitable for "covering the area." She, of course, is far from a planer, but she can be considered as a certain intermediate stage between sandpaper and a planer.

In contrast to the tape machine, a vibration-type machine, small in power, is easier to hold in the hand, and allows you to process places that are inaccessible to the tape machine. It is good to use it for fine finishing also because the sandpaper is attached to it with Velcro. Fine sandpaper "sits" on this Velcro much better. Rough sandpaper falls off too easily. And by the way, the minus of this Velcro is that once the sandpaper that has fallen off will not stick for the second time.

Now we begin to assemble the frame. The narrower 50 mm side will go “on the face”. We apply glue to the ends of short blanks, and “sit” the blanks on the self-tapping screw, not forgetting that we must carefully observe the right angle of contact as carefully as possible. To do this, we use a metal square:

After assembling the frame along the contour, we measure, saw, grind and also “sit down” the middle vertical blank on the glue and self-tapping screw:

This is not the whole frame. We have collected only its first "layer". It's time to take on the second "layer".

Upon completion of the assembly of the first layer of the frame, it may turn out that the elements adjacent to each other are not joined to "zero". And it's not even that when sawing and processing it is very difficult to maintain perfectly accurate dimensions. Remember, a piece of wood is part of a once living tree. It has a certain internal tension, can retain the shape of an arc or be twisted into a "spiral". You won’t see it with your eyes, and you won’t measure it during the initial processing.

However, it is the flexibility of wood that will help us later, when docked, to “pull” all the elements to each other. Therefore, we simply eliminate the irregularities with a planer:

Frame manufacturing. Second layer.

We take the remaining blanks 50 mm thick and 65 mm wide. We dissolve them in thickness into bars of 30 and 20 mm, the width of 65 mm remains the same.

The bars are thinner, 20 mm thick, while we put them aside. We now need bars 30 mm thick and 65 mm wide. We also go through them with a planer and grind.

First we bring finishing touch relating to the first layer of the frame. We install a bar that will fence off the window from the lower sash. We make it from a bar 30 mm wide. We also fasten it with glue and self-tapping screws, not forgetting to maintain the right angles of the entire structure.

Well, now we begin to make the second layer of the frame. We start its installation from the same window partition that we installed last. So it will be easier to follow the order in which the elements of the second layer will overlap on the joints of the elements of the first layer. This will give the whole structure strength. We turn the frame over with a “knotless face” down and overlap the first part of the second layer. We carefully measure the elements to be joined, fasten them strictly in the center, and apply glue:

We press for a few seconds so that the glue grabs and tighten the surfaces to be glued with a clamp or vise. Then, in order to maintain the density of gluing, we put the elements on self-tapping screws.

Please note that the length of the glued strip is “taken with a margin”. It protrudes a few centimeters beyond the middle vertical bar. This can be seen in the top right photo. Then we fix the rest of the details of the second layer of the frame. It is not necessary to screw the screws all the way. After the glue dries, we will unscrew them.

If you remember, we made one vertical blank a little wider than the others, 75 mm instead of the usual 65 mm. We also cut it in thickness, we need a part with the same width of 30 mm. This wide bar will “go” to the middle vertical bar. After all, we need it to stand for the bar on both sides.

After the glue has dried, it's time to replace the screws with wood dowels. Take sheet piles 8mm in diameter and 40mm long. The drill, respectively, is also eight-millimeter. Under the tongues, drill holes with a drill.

In order not to drill too much, you can wind tape on the drill. Then when drilling, a sufficient depth of the hole will be visible

We fill the drilled holes with glue and hammer the tongues with a hammer.

Now that all the details of the second layer are installed, you can cut that “window” plank with which we started the installation of the second layer:

Grinding dried tongues:

This is the frame we got:

Now you can start painting. If you cover the frame without assistants, then it is better to paint the sides first, and then front part. This way you can better avoid leaks.

When you choose the color of stain and varnish in the store, make sure that the seller shows the color of the exact manufacturer whose products you are going to purchase. Some kind of "oak" or let's say "rosewood", different manufacturers the color will be very different.

To say that the frame is completely ready, and you can proceed to the manufacture of sashes, we just have to lay rubber compressor. We take the so-called "D"-shaped. It is called so because in cross section it resembles the Latin "D". This sealant already has a sticky layer, it is not necessary to apply additional glue.

Now the frame is ready. Let's move on to the shutters.

The advantages of plastic windows over wooden ones are considered quite obvious today. But ease of manufacture and installation does not mean quality and comfort.

Windows Features

Spared from the ability to breathe, plastic double-glazed windows often create conditions that are unfavorable to health. In addition, suffocating air does not become cleaner even after ventilation of rooms with double-glazed windows.
Wooden windows in turn, they also have a number of disadvantages, the most important of which is exposure to moisture. But with proper care, a wooden window can serve for a long time and, due to its environmental friendliness and the ability to breathe, will allow residents of a wooden or other house to stay in a more pleasant state.

Wooden windows have important advantage- environmental friendliness and naturalness

How can you make a quality wooden window with your own hands? To do this, you need to follow a simple plan, as well as have some skills in working with woodworking tools. Manufacturing of windows simple form has a memorable step-by-step character.

Training

Before making a new wooden window, it is worth preparing a number of tools, including a screwdriver and a drill, a hammer with a set of chisels and chisels, as well as an electric planer. If there are no ready-made glasses for the window, then you will also have to get a glass cutter. Additionally, rulers and other small devices will be needed.
From the materials you should take the wood itself, self-tapping screws, window hinges, as well as a sheet of glass.

Chief on the ground preparatory stage the task of the wizard is to create a drawing. Sketches or drawings should contain clear dimensions for each element of the window.

When they are created, it is usually done to scale, respecting all relative distances. An improperly designed scheme can lead to a waste of materials or premature destruction of the window.

When buying lumber, it’s worth everything to buy them with a margin so that it’s enough. If you plan to make more than one window, then it is better to make one probe and then proceed from the amount of materials that actually went into making one window with your own hands.

blanks

Wooden blanks for wooden window parts should be made from wood that is best suited for this. Pine wood is often used for windows, as they are easy to process and sufficiently resistant to moisture. Often oak materials are also used.

lumber requirements:

1. drying on high level(about 22-23 percent humidity);
2. absence of chips, rotten knots and other defects.

Individual parts and blanks are manufactured according to the drawing. This must be done with the usual cutting tools- jigsaw, saw. It is better to grind already finished parts.

In some cases, glued beams can also be used instead of solid wood. Their main feature is that, due to the glued structure, the beams from many layers remain quite stable and do not deform for a long time.

box

The basic size of the raw material for creating a box of a conventional wooden window is a board with a section of 150 by 50 millimeters. The box consists of four boards, which are interconnected with the help of grooves and spikes made with a cutter or chisels. They are made dense in such a way that they fit into each other quite rigidly. In this case, all 4 parts of the box must be connected to each other strictly perpendicular.

The strength of the finished structure depends on the strength of the connection.

In order for the tongue-and-groove connection to gain greater strength, it is stitched through with a wooden rod, under which a separate hole is drilled.
The finished base of the wooden window is installed in the window opening, and the gaps between the box and the walls are foamed with mounting foam. It is worth noting that too large gaps between the walls and the box cannot be sealed with foam alone, since a foam layer of more than 5 centimeters can deform the box. Therefore, it is desirable to make a window opening optimal size with a margin of up to 5 centimeters.
In the case of a wooden building and walls made of beams or log cabins a pigtail is also used, the production of which has its own characteristics.

Window frame

Before you make a frame, you need to determine the base material for it. Window frames are made of beams with a section of 50 by 50 millimeters. Manufacturing window frames provides for one of two processing options - you can make both a 1-glass and a 2-glass profile, which have 2 or 3 grooves, respectively (one for each glass insert and one for the box).

The grooves, as a rule, have a recess for glass sheets 10 millimeters high and 14 millimeters wide. The glazing bead, which will fix the glass, has a width of 10 millimeters (calculated on glass with a thickness of 4 millimeters). The groove for the box is a little larger and has a section of 15 by 20 millimeters.
Making wooden windows with your own hands is generally a simple process, just like assembling the most complex part of them (the frame). First, wooden window frames are assembled in the same way as a box was assembled. Their elements are connected using spikes and grooves, which are glued with glue.
Sometimes the frames are additionally fastened metal corners(using self-tapping screws). Although the corners give additional strength to the structure, they negatively affect their static appearance.

Glass

Even if all the dimensions of a do-it-yourself wooden window, frames and openings for glass are known in advance, the glass still needs to be measured before cutting. This is important to know in fact, since a deviation of even 1 millimeter can cause the window to blow through.
If you accurately measure and cut the glass, then this will provide enough high density its connection with the base of the frame.

Working as a glass cutter requires skill and experience.

To cut glass, a glass cutter is used, the technique of working with which also needs to be mastered. If there are no skills in working with glass cutting, then it is better to ask a specialist about this or purchase glass right size in the store, where it can immediately be cut to the specified dimensions.

The edges of the glass are quite sharp, and therefore they need to be processed with sandpaper.

If glass is processed independently, then it is very important to adhere to safety precautions, the instructions for which have several important points. First, you need to use special gloves with rubber pads, since even the smallest pieces of glass can injure your hands. Secondly, it is desirable to protect the face with a mask, as well as glasses.

Before cutting the main sheet, make a few preliminary cuts to determine the optimum pressure on the glass cutter.

When cutting glass, you need to press it with optimal force. If you do not press it, then a poor-quality cut will lead to the appearance of chips on it. Otherwise, applying excessive force will cause the glass itself to crack, which will not only damage the glass, but also lead to injury and cuts.

When cutting, the glass cutter is carried out along a ruler, which can be made from almost any material. As a ruler, you can also use a regular bar.
After cutting, the glass is placed in the window frame, fixed with glazing beads. Sealant is applied to the wood first.

A window made of wood is mounted on a box. For this, self-tapping screws or window hinges are used. After that, the window sill is installed.
The simplest do-it-yourself window will provide the house with warmth and comfort, and will also be inexpensive.
If necessary, several such windows can be made and installed in a box with an external and inner sides. Thus it is easy to provide additional insulation for the winter.

With your own hands, you can create almost any device or element of the house that will be a reason for joy. After all, even a wooden window can not only replace plastic double-glazed window, but also become good test on the aptitude of a novice carpenter.

Video: do-it-yourself window block

Four years ago, I published an article "Window block profile drawings (wooden double-glazed window)", where I attached a photo and drawings of wooden window profiles. Over the years I have received several letters asking for drawings. corner connections or send more detailed drawings. A week ago, I received another such letter, and today I will try to clarify the situation with this overview article.

Letter from a reader of ModelMen.ru

Written by: Daniel

Hello Dmitry. I am from Sevastopol (Crimea, Ukraine). I was very interested in the drawings of a wooden window with a double-glazed window. (). Now I am doing repairs in the house and did not want to put plastic windows, and very expensive wooden windows came to my mind to make them myself, I began to look for drawings on the Internet and many search engines indicate yours. You write that you developed the drawings yourself, so I wanted to ask you a question as a developer. How much the window should be less than the frame, i.e. if you assemble the frame, then how should the frame (height and width) be calculated so that they fit exactly to each other and do not create gaps when closing (or do not cling to each other). Is it possible to make such a window without a milling machine? How to connect the corners (butt or at 45 degrees)? Under what fittings was the window calculated? I promise that if I manage to make such a window, I will post photos phased creation such a window. Thanks in advance. Sincerely, Daniel.

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =

So let's go!

Is it possible to make such a window without a milling machine?

Yes, it is possible! Moreover, such a window can be made with only a circular saw at hand. I have a modern saw blade for aluminum in my arsenal, although it was written at the time of sale that it saws wood, of course. My disk looks like this:

Specifications:
Disc diameter 255 mm.
Number of teeth 80 pcs.
Mounting hole diameter 30 mm.

Mine really has a 32 mm bore and a larger diameter, but that's not the point, it's the number of teeth! Thanks to the large number of teeth on the blade, it cuts wood exceptionally cleanly. I often asked friends to compare planed wood and sawn wood with this blade, sawn wood always won in quality. Homemade jointers often do not give a high-quality planed surface, it turns out to be wavy, especially at the ends of the workpiece, and industrial equipment not everyone can afford.

Why am I all this, you can make a wooden window with it at hand circular machine and a good saw blade with large quantity teeth (solder).

How to connect corners?

Most interest Ask:) because most people make a simple spike connection into one spike.

Such frames with one spike have already proven to be extremely short-lived. If you want the window to serve for a long time and withstand a large number of opening and closing cycles of the sashes, then make a spike connection in two spikes. You can of course make it in three spikes, if the thickness of the frame allows.

The more spikes, the greater the bonding area of ​​the parts and, accordingly, such a spike connection is several times stronger.

How to make a spike connection?

This is not as difficult as it seems at first glance, first you need to cut four blanks to size, two vertical and two horizontal. It might just be rectangular section bars or already bars with the selected profile. The length of the blanks depends on the size of the box of the window block, it is better to calculate this, of course, on the drawing.

You can even saw off the blanks to length by eye, attaching them to the finished box, but given that the frame should overlap the box. Of course, in this case, a profile must already be selected in the blanks for the frame.

They cut spikes and eyes usually on milling machine, but we have circumstances, there is no machine, so the same can be done on circular saw with little or no equipment.

It should be noted right away that the vertical parts of a wooden window or door are always eyes, and the horizontal parts should be spikes.

For example, I will show you a video of how an uncle does spike connections on the circular using your device.

Here's a smarter one:

In both videos, box spikes are made, they are small and there are a lot of them and it is difficult to make them without devices. If you make one or two windows, then you can get by with a simple fixture as in the first video, but without a pin, then all the work will need to be done according to the markings on the workpiece with a pencil.

Under what fittings was the window calculated?

To be honest, I took the fittings and the profile of a plastic window as a basis. I don’t know if there are differences between fittings for a wooden and a plastic window, but I think that having any of them you can adapt.

At the beginning of this winter, I installed a factory-made wooden window in my kitchen on my own. Below, see the photo of the window, which elements can be taken from there when developing a drawing.

Today, I would portray my profile a little differently than four years ago:

As you can see, I increased the size of the bars to 80 mm., All the same, we have harsh winters, and I would like the heat to remain in the house, besides, a more massive frame will be stronger and look better.

In this article, I again do not give you ready-made drawings and window sizes, because in order to develop them, you need to have window fittings in your hands and understand how it is attached and works. Unfortunately, I have no experience with such fittings, therefore, to develop finished drawing I can't yet. Below I tried to visually depict how the corner stud connection should look like.

I found a few more photos on the Internet that show elements of the tenon joints of a wooden window. I hope the information I have provided will help you develop a drawing yourself. wooden double-glazed window and bring it to life. Good luck!

Of course, plastic windows have long won our hearts. However, for a budget way to replace windows, it is a wooden frame that is suitable. And if you decide to carry out such repair work in your country house or on the veranda, then you can make wooden windows with your own hands. When I attached a veranda to my house, I immediately decided to glaze it and the option with plastic windows didn't suit me. Of course, production machines assemble window frames much better and faster, but you always want to do something with your own hands. But if you follow all the rules for processing wooden material and the technology for connecting parts, then it is quite possible to achieve good results. Today we will look at step by step instructions for the production of wooden windows.

Making a wooden box

wooden box

When I decided to make a wooden window with my own hands, I thought about what kind of wood to use. From myself I want to advise you to use pine - it is quite affordable due to its cost. If you, like me, decided to try to make a wooden frame for windows yourself, then give preference to this particular material. Oak can be considered a good alternative, but it is more expensive than pine and I was afraid to use it for the first time.

Important! If you decide to experiment, then you should not immediately purchase expensive materials. It is possible that you will not succeed and the wood elements will be damaged.

stock up necessary tools in advance, although many home craftsmen have all these items in constant use:

• Drill and screwdriver - mechanized way tightening screws will speed up the assembly process
• glass cutter
• electric planer
• Chisel and hammer

Before buying, always check the condition of the boards. They should not have cracks or chips, protruding knots or any deformations. They must also be completely dry. Step technology:

1. For my window, I chose a board measuring 150x50 mm
2. In all wooden blanks he made a groove resembling the letter "G". The depth of the groove was 15 mm
3. After that, I connected 4 parts together. For joints, wood glue is used, and the corners should be 90 degrees each. After the box is glued, drill holes in it for a wooden rod, which is 3 cm long. This is an additional fixation and provides 90 degree corners
4. The box is inserted into the already prepared opening for the window. Everything is simple here: you drill holes into which you insert dowels, and then fix the box with self-tapping screws. I did not perform such actions - my goal was to make a window with my own hands

Important! All cracks must be filled with mounting foam. With this fixing, the mobility of the tree with a temperature difference is not taken into account.

DIY wooden windows

The wooden box is standing - we make a frame

DIY wooden windows

Step-by-step instructions for making a frame for windows with your own hands depends on what kind of window you want to make. I made a single-glass profile with 2 grooves:

• The window frame is made from a wooden bar, the size of which depends on the design of the windows. I used a 6x4 cm wooden beam, but you can take larger sizes
• If a window profile will be double-glazed, then the design will have 1 groove more - 2 grooves for glasses and 1 for fixing in a box
• The profile is made using a milling cutter or an electric planer - I chose 4 mm glass, and 10 mm bead
• In order to assemble the parts, they need to be cut. To get 90 degrees, cut the edges obliquely, that is, 45 degrees. Self-tapping screws should be used for high-quality fixing and immobility

As a beginner in this business, it was not immediately clear to me how the whole process takes place. Instructions for the manufacture of wooden windows were written for me as if in an incomprehensible language, but having bought everything necessary materials and tools, I started work. Having considered all the drawings and photos that can be found on the Internet without any problems, it turned out that making a wooden window with your own hands is not such a difficult task.

Important! More recently, cashing was used to hide flaws in the installation of wooden windows or their thermal insulation. Now cashing out plays not only practical, but also decorative role. Cash is suitable for wooden houses and is only used for them. It can be carved or resemble images of animals - it all depends on the imagination of the master.

Only a little remains - we insert glass

We make wooden windows with our own hands

The most important thing in this process is the exact choice of glass dimensions. Thanks to this, cold bridges are not created, and the glasses adhere qualitatively to the wooden window frame. Deviations of 1 mm may already have Negative consequences- but we don't need it.

Important! Remember safety precautions when cutting glass. You should definitely have gloves to protect your hands and goggles - protection from glass chips is a must.

Need to cut glass diamond glass cutter, and fine-grained sandpaper is suitable for polishing the edge. The cutting technique is very simple. It is enough to stock up on a ruler that will be longer than glass and lead along it with a glass cutter. Before you smear the edges with sealant, you need to attach a glass for fitting. If everything is successful, then sealant is applied to the grooves, after which the glass is finally inserted into the frame. After that, we use a glazing bead - it should hook both the frame and the glass, and then fix it with thin nails. If the fillers are wider, then fix them with self-tapping screws - choose thin fasteners.

On this, the manufacture of wooden windows with their own hands is completely completed and only one thing remains: the placement of wooden windows in prepared boxes. I did not need this action, but if you still decide to install, then:

1. We insert the structure into the block and fix it in the grooves
2. Using self-tapping screws, we fix the frame - the elements must pass through it directly into the wall
3. All slots are filled with polyurethane foam and wait for it to dry completely.
4. In the future, you can make slopes with your own hands in the most convenient way for you. But for wooden structures everyone is accustomed to using plaster, as plastic slopes will not look harmonious

Renovation of an old wooden structure

We restore old windows with our own hands

I would like to raise another important question: how to update old wooden windows with your own hands? Despite all the defects that appear on wooden structures after many years, they remain very strong and durable. Therefore, there is not always a desire to change old window structures and spend a lot of money on it.

Usually, do-it-yourself restoration of wooden windows involves installing seals and painting frames, but in some cases a more time-consuming process is required. When gaps appear between wooden frame and the box, seals should be used. You can use rubber, foam rubber or polyvinyl chloride. But if a skew has formed, then closing or opening the sash on the windows becomes a real problem. In order to correct the situation, you can try 2 methods: first, check the loops - maybe they have settled and it’s enough just to find a new place for them or cut off the excess with a planer. The fact is that wood tends to swell and therefore there may be places that need to be adjusted over time.

Very often, windows do not close due to a corny thick layer of applied paint. To do this, it is necessary to remove excess layers of paintwork materials from wooden structures with sandpaper. However, the most terrible problem may seem to be rot in certain areas. Oddly enough, there is a common solution to this: using a chisel, you need to cut out the damaged area, it would be better if you grab some more usable material. Lubricate the resulting recess with epoxy or wood glue, then insert new material and secure it. When the adhesive solution dries, the entire surface is processed with a grinder. The final decision will be to open the frame with varnish or paint with paintwork materials.

Results

As you can see, there is nothing wrong with making new wooden structures or updating old wooden windows. In order to do all the work yourself, it is enough to study the technology, as well as stock up on the necessary tools and wooden materials. By choosing suitable wood, you can build your own window construction and in the future to carry out glazing of your summer house or veranda, and possibly a summer kitchen.