In the presence of a milling machine, work on inserting loops, forming complex holes, recesses, woodcarving, etc. is really simplified. But this does not mean at all that it is necessary to have professional and expensive equipment: it is enough to have a simple manual device.
The only thing you need is to be able to handle wood and use power tools. In addition, you need to have a desire, otherwise there will never be a result without it. Those who have no desire to work simply buy furniture or hire craftsmen to, for example, install a new door and embed locks. Any work, especially with a power tool, requires certain knowledge, and especially safety precautions.
The milling device is intended for processing both wood and metal. With its help, it is possible to form recesses or holes of any configuration. This greatly simplifies tasks such as tapping hinges and tapping locks. To do this with a chisel and an electric drill is not so easy, and it takes a lot of time.
There are stationary milling devices and portable (manual). Manual electric cutters are considered universal devices, with the help of which, in the presence of nozzles, it is possible to perform operations for various purposes, it is enough just to change the position of the part relative to the device or vice versa.
Stationary devices are used in factories or factories where mass production of wood or metal products is established. Under such conditions, the cutting nozzle is stationary, and the workpiece moves along the desired path. When using a hand tool, on the contrary, the part is fixed motionless and only then it is processed, although there are parts that require fixing a hand tool. This is provided for in the design, therefore, it is considered more universal. This is especially true when you need to process a large number of parts, and it is not possible to use a stationary machine.
Homemade milling machine - a horizontal platform with a hole in the center, from below to which a manual fixture is attached. There are many types of milling machines, but for use at home or for starting a business, universal models are more suitable. As a rule, they are equipped with a set of cutters and various devices for performing various kinds of operations. The only thing is that with a manual router, simple operations can take much more time than with a stationary machine.
With the manual milling device it is possible to:
- Make grooves or recesses of arbitrary shape (curly, rectangular, combined).
- Drill through and non-through holes.
- Process ends and edges of any configuration.
- Cut out complex shapes.
- Carry out drawings or patterns on the surface of parts.
- Make a copy of the details, if necessary.
Copying parts is one of the functions of any electric milling machine. The presence of such functions makes it possible to simplify the production of the same type of furniture or the production of identical parts that are not related to the production of furniture. This is one of the main advantages of this tool. As a rule, for the production of the same type of parts, it is necessary to install copy machines that are designed to perform only one operation, which is not always profitable, especially in small enterprises.
Getting Started and Caring for the Tool
To understand how this device works, you should familiarize yourself with its main parts and their purpose.
Composition and purpose of the main nodes
The manual milling fixture consists of a metal case and a motor, which is located in the same case. A shaft protrudes from the body, on which various collets are put on, serving as adapters. They allow you to install cutters of various sizes. A cutter is inserted directly into the collet, which is fixed with a special bolt or button, which is provided on some models.
The main elements of a manual milling device and their purpose. The design of the milling fixture provides a metal platform, which has a rigid connection with the body. It is attached to the body with two rods. From outside the plate has the smooth covering providing smoothness of the movement in the course of work.
The manual milling fixture has some characteristics that can be adjusted:
- Due to the handle and scale setting the depth of milling. Adjustment is carried out in increments of 1/10 mm.
- By adjusting the speed of rotation of the cutter.
At the initial stages, when the tool is mastered, it is better to try to work at low or medium speeds. Although you should always remember that the higher the speed, the better the work. Especially when it comes to responsible, visible areas that cannot be masked.
In addition to these levers, there is also a button for turning the product on and off, as well as a lock button. These elements are considered the main ones that ensure the quality and safety of work. There is also a parallel stop, which contributes to ease of use. It can be rigidly fixed or with the ability to adjust the shift of the working area, in the direction from the center.
Caring for your handheld router
Usually, a factory product falls into the hands of a person tested and lubricated, so no additional measures should be taken. Only in the process of its operation it is necessary to monitor its cleanliness and serviceability. At the same time, it should be regularly cleaned of dust and change the lubricant, if the passport says so. Especially lubrication is needed for moving parts. Alternatively, you can use aerosol lubricants, but you can get by with the usual ones, such as Litol. The use of thick lubricants is not recommended, as chips and dust stick to them. If aerosol lubricants are used, then this factor can be eliminated.
Lubrication also requires a sole - a smooth part of the body. Regular lubrication will ensure the desired smoothness of movement.
Despite this, the purchased item should definitely be checked for build quality and the presence of lubrication.
Unfortunately, not all manufacturers, and especially domestic ones, care about build quality. There are cases when, after the first hours of operation, screws or screws are unscrewed from the product, as they were not tightened properly.
Rotation speed adjustment
The operation of any tool is associated with certain conditions related, first of all, to the nature of the material being processed. It can be plywood, composite material or ordinary wood. Depending on this, the rotation speed on the electrical appliance is set. As a rule, the technical data sheet always indicates the operating parameters of the device, depending on the technical characteristics and characteristics of the surfaces being processed, as well as the cutters used.
Processing speed indicators when using various cutters. Cutter fixation
The first thing the work begins with is the installation and fixing of the cutter. At the same time, one should adhere to the basic rule - all work is carried out with the cord removed from the outlet.
The cutter is set according to certain marks, and if they are absent, then to a depth not less than ¾ of the length of the cutter itself. How to install the cutter on a specific model, you can learn from the instructions, which must be present in the technical documents for the device. The fact is that each model can have its own design features and it is not possible to talk about this in the article.
Installing the cutter on the device before starting work. There are models both simple and more "advanced", as they say. Some models have a shaft rotation lock button, which makes it easier to install the cutter. Some, especially expensive models, are equipped with ratchets. So it’s impossible to describe specifically the process of installing the cutter, and it doesn’t make sense, since everyone who is familiar with the operation of such devices will figure it out at the moment.
Milling depth adjustment
Each model has its own maximum cutting depth. At the same time, it is not always the maximum depth that is required, but a certain depth, which is set before work. Even if the maximum depth is required, then, in order not to overload the device, the milling process is divided into several stages, changing the milling depth in steps. For adjustment, special stops are provided - limiters. Structurally, they are made in the form of a disk located under the bar, on which stops of various lengths are fixed. The number of such legs can be from three to seven, and this does not mean that the more of them, the better. It is better if it is possible to adjust each of the legs, even if their number is minimal. To fix this stop in the optimal position, you should use the lock, in the form of a flag.
The milling depth adjustment process is as follows:
Thus, the workpiece is milled to a predetermined depth. On high-quality expensive models, there is a wheel for fine-tuning the depth of milling.
With this wheel, you can more accurately set the depth without violating the previous setting. This wheel (green in the photo above) allows you to adjust the depth in a small way.
Cutters for manual milling tools
A milling cutter is a cutting tool that can have an intricately shaped cutting edge. As a rule, all cutters are designed for rotational movements, therefore they have a cylindrical shape. The shank of the cutter, which is clamped in the collet, has the same shape. Some cutters are equipped with a thrust roller, so that the distance between the cutting surface and the workpiece remains constant.
Milling cutters are made only from high-quality metals and their alloys. If you want to process soft woods, then HSS cutters will fit, and if you need to process hard wood, then it is better to use cutters from harder HM grades.
Each cutter has its own technical characteristics, which provide it with high-quality and long work. The main indicator is the maximum speed of its rotation, which should never be overestimated, otherwise its breakdown is inevitable. If the cutter is dull, then you should not try to sharpen it yourself. Sharpening of cutters is carried out on special, expensive equipment. After all, it is necessary not only to sharpen the cutter, but also to maintain its shape, which is no less important. Therefore, if the cutter, for some reason, has become dull, then it will be cheaper to buy a new one.
The most popular cutters
There are cutters that are used in the work more often than others. For example:
Groove molds are designed to create recesses in an arbitrary place on the workpiece. There are simple cutters, monolithic, made from a single piece of metal, and there are type-setting. Type-setting cutters consist of a shank, which serves as the basis for a set of cutting elements. By selecting cutting planes and installing them on the shank, using washers of various thicknesses, it is possible to form an arbitrary relief on the surface of the workpiece.
A type-setting cutter is a set of cutting surfaces and washers, which allows you to assemble the cutter of the desired shape. In fact, there are a lot of cutters and this is only a small fraction of what is produced. All cutters differ in shank diameter, cutting surface diameter, cutting height, knife position, etc. As for manual milling equipment, it is enough to have a set of five most popular milling cutters. If necessary, they can be purchased at any time.
Rules for working with manual milling tools
Working with power tools requires special rules, especially when there are rapidly rotating elements. In addition, as a result of the work, chips are formed, which scatter in all directions. Despite the fact that most models are equipped with a protective shield, this does not fully protect against the flow of chips. Therefore, it is better to work with such a tool in protective glasses.
The photo shows a model where a vacuum cleaner is connected to remove chips. General requirements
If you fulfill the basic requirements for safe work with an electric hand router, then the end result will please you with the quality of work and a safe outcome. Here are the conditions:
The requirements are not very difficult and quite feasible, and ignoring them means putting yourself in danger. And one more thing, no less important, is the ability to hold a milling tool in your hands and feel how it works. If serious vibrations are felt, then you need to stop and analyze the reasons. It is possible that the cutter is dull or a knot is caught. Sometimes it is necessary to correctly set the speed of rotation of the cutter. Here you can experiment: either add speed or reduce it.
Edge Processing: Using Templates
Processing the edge of a wooden board is best done on a thickness gauge. If this is not possible, then you can use a manual router, although this will take some time. These works are carried out both without a template and with a template. If there are no skills or there are very few of them, then it is better to use a template. For processing edges, straight edge cutters are used, both with one bearing at the end of the cutting part, and with a bearing at the beginning (see photo).
Edge cutters. For the template, you can take an already processed board or another, even object. Moreover, the length of the template must be greater than the length of the workpiece, both at the beginning and at the end of the workpiece being processed. This will avoid unevenness at the beginning of the edge and at its end. The most important thing here is that the template or object acting as a template has a smooth and even surface. In addition, its thickness should not be greater than the gap between the bearing and the cutting part.
The width of the part is less than the length of the cutting part
At the same time, the longer the cutting part, the more difficult it is to work with the tool, since more effort is required. In this regard, it is better to start work with cutters that have an average length of the cutting part. The working principle for edge processing is as follows:
- The template is attached so that it is at the desired height and has a flat horizontal surface.
- The template is firmly mounted to a table or other surface.
- The cutter with a roller is installed so that the roller moves along the template, and the cutter (cutting part) along the workpiece. To do this, perform all the necessary manipulations with the template, workpiece and tool.
- The cutter is set in working position and clamped.
- After that, the tool turns on and moves along the template. In this case, it is necessary to determine the speed of movement, which is determined by the depth of processing.
- The milling unit can be both pushed and pulled: as it is convenient for anyone.
After the first pass, you should stop and evaluate the quality of work. If necessary, another pass can be made by adjusting the position of the tool. If the quality is satisfactory, then the clamps are removed, freeing the workpiece.
With this approach, it is possible to remove a quarter along the edge or in some of its parts. This is done by setting the cutting edge so that it goes to the required depth into the part.
A quarter taken on a furniture facade. If you replace the cutter with a figured one and shift the guide, as well as use the stop, you can actually apply a longitudinal pattern to the part (in the photo below).
Drawing a longitudinal figured pattern on the workpiece. If you use a similar milling technique (with a template), you can easily master the technique of working with wood in general. After some time, you can abandon the templates, as their installation takes a lot of useful time.
How to make a smooth edge without a template: experience is indispensable here. The width of the part is greater than the length of the cutting part
Quite often, the thickness of the workpiece is greater than the length of the cutting part of the cutter. In this case, proceed as follows:
- After the first pass, the template is removed and another pass is made. In this case, the already processed part will serve as a template. To do this, the bearing is guided over the machined surface. If the cutting part was again not enough, then you will have to make another pass.
- For final processing, you should take a cutter with a bearing at the end, and the workpiece must be turned upside down, after which it is fixed with clamps. As a result, the bearing will move over the machined surface. This approach allows processing thick parts.
The bearing is guided over the machined surface while the cutting edge machine the rest of the workpiece. In order to master the work of a manual milling tool, you will need a lot of rough workpieces, which you do not mind throwing away later. Nobody got it right the first time. For something to work out, you need to train hard.
Obtaining various curly edges
If a curly edge is required, which is most likely to be necessary, then first pay attention to the condition of this edge. If it is uneven, then it will have to be leveled and only then proceed to the formation of a curly edge, choosing the appropriate cutter.
Rounded edge. It is necessary to prepare the surface so that the cutter does not copy the curvature along which the roller will move. In this case, a sequence of actions is needed, otherwise a positive result will not work.
- Basics at work
- Work rules
- Open groove
- deep groove
- narrow groove
- end surface
- Curved edges
- decorative trim
The purchase of a hand-held woodworking tool can give impetus to the development of a new and very exciting profession, which gathers more and more fans every year. Numerous video tutorials and photos containing the author's methods of working with a manual milling cutter are replicated on the Internet, which once again proves the popularization of the craft, which the Russian people have chosen for a long time. If you do not yet know all the basics of manual woodworking and are just getting acquainted with specialized household equipment, the following information will be useful to you.
What can be done with a hand mill?
Of course, we are unlikely to be able to list all those useful gizmos that can be made at home with a manual router, certain skills and desires due to the unlimited range of such crafts, but we will still mention the most common of them, and if necessary, you can easily find photos of such homemade products on the Internet.
So, armed with a manual milling cutter, even a novice master can easily cope with the manufacture of railings, all kinds of shelving and shelves, hangers and stools. Now it has become fashionable to breathe new life into old dilapidated furniture at home, and this process will definitely be within your power.
Also, a manual milling cutter will be indispensable where it is necessary to select grooves for future joints, insert a lock, and even create a fancy intricate pattern on the surface of the wood, which serves as a decorative ornament. Even if you do not plan to keep such a versatile tool in your hands around the clock, sooner or later it will certainly serve you well in everyday life.
Basics at work
The depth of cut here is regulated by a lifting mechanism that connects the two main parts of the router - the electric drive and the base. To be more precise, the parameters of the penetration of the cutter into the material being processed are set by setting a certain distance between the pin and the washer located next to the motor. In order for the milling machine to maintain the same distance relative to the edge of the workpiece when moving, it has a straight guide. Some models are equipped with a circular guide, with which it is possible to mill circles with a large radius. For small circles (radius less than 15 cm), technological holes are provided on the base of the equipment, into which a centering pin is inserted at a distance specified from the cutter.
The selection of grooves is carried out using an angular stop fixed on the machine body at a right angle. Before starting work, the carpenter must ensure that the workpiece of the future product has a fixed position, because the lack of a reliable support will inevitably lead to the fact that the edges of the groove will be crooked, and this will negatively affect the final result of the work. Please note that it is not recommended to remove a layer of wood exceeding 5 mm in one pass. Sufficiently deep grooves according to the technology are selected in several stages. Work with a manual wood router should be done smoothly, without haste and sudden movements, otherwise you will have to face such an unpleasant phenomenon as torn edges of the groove.
Setting up the tool and getting started
Wood router, like any other equipment, needs to be adjusted before starting the work process. First of all, the safety nut and the clamping collet are removed, after which the unit is started and a control cut is carried out. Next, check whether the screws and other threaded parts are well clamped and remove excess protective grease.
Beginners often make the mistake of not holding the milling machine firmly enough in their hands, or applying excessive force to the material being processed. At the corners of the workpiece, as well as when changing the direction of movement of the router, the speed of movement of the unit is not slowed down so as not to leave burns from overheating the machine.
Work rules
Depending on the nature of the work performed, the carpenter chooses the method of their implementation. For example, the processing of curved surfaces differs from decorating wood crafts with an openwork pattern, and here the main thing is to follow the rule for using a particular technique, taking into account the peculiarity of a particular process. We have selected the most common cutting techniques for you, accompanying each method with a thematic video.
Open groove
If you plan to process the workpiece by forming a groove from the very edge, install the tool so that the cutting element hangs over the edge of the wood. Then it is necessary to lower the knife to a predetermined depth and fix the position of the basket, after which the engine starts and the feed begins. When the edge is finished, the cutter rises and the lock is loosened, and only then the motor can be turned off. Blind grooves are formed in a similar way, with the only difference that they do not start from the edge of the part.
deep groove
In this case, after each pass of the processed area, it is necessary to adjust the new depth of immersion of the cutter into the wooden material, after turning off the cutter, and it is desirable that the depth does not exceed 5 mm. This rule applies especially to hard materials that require careful handling. The last layer should not exceed 1.5 mm, which will make it possible to create a clean surface.
narrow groove
In this case, for greater convenience in work, the wood is processed using an additional device. The process to be carried out consists in attaching a flat base to the sole of the unit. Guide rods are installed on both sides of the auxiliary plane, providing a straight trajectory of the router, the main thing is that their axes are located on the same line with the center of the knife. If the master will use an auxiliary device with a router, it must be guided so that the rods are evenly pressed against the sides of the workpiece.
end surface
Carpentry work on wood with a hand mill is often associated with the processing of the ends of the workpiece, and here it is very important to get a clean edge. A practice-tested rule will come to the aid of a novice master, stating that a fairly gentle cut is initially performed, while the tool is guided in the direction of rotation of the knife. With this design, the main part of the wood material will be selected evenly, after which you clean the end face in the usual way, leading the router against the direction of rotation of the cutting element, and the appearance of the workpiece will acquire the desired shape.
Curved edges
Milling curved edges with a hand router is done in a slightly different way, and here the master will need templates with a thrust ring. The ring itself is a round plate with a rim that moves along the template, giving the cutter the correct trajectory of movement. Such a part is fixed on the sole of the tool with the help of special fasteners, after which it can be used for its intended purpose.
Before starting the main process, the template must be fixed on the plane being processed, and this can be done using ordinary double-sided tape, after which the resulting structure is pressed with clamps to the desktop. The use of templates allows you to create exactly the same products from which you can make furniture or any other interior details.
decorative trim
Patterns on the tree are designed to decorate joinery, giving them a decorative "zest". Artistic milling is perhaps the most interesting method of processing natural material, because here the craftsmen can fully give free rein to their imagination, and a manual machine will help to cope with this task without any problems. Wood is very malleable in work, the main thing is to know how the processing is carried out correctly so that the result is really worthy.
In addition to the milling cutter, a vice, a jigsaw and a chisel will come in handy here, which you will have to use during the work. A wooden canvas with a pattern transferred from a picture or photo you like is fixed on a stable surface. A tool with a special cutting nozzle is smoothly driven along the contour of the pattern, carefully removing a layer of wood, thereby giving it volume. Using a cutter of different sizes will allow you to create a different ornament, depending on personal preferences. Now you know how to work with a manual milling tool and can try it out in practice.
After acquiring a manual router, a novice master may have questions about the technology of work. True, as a rule, a router is purchased by people who already have an idea about woodworking, but this is not always the case. Therefore, at first you just need to get acquainted with the router and with the popular cutter profiles.
This article is for beginners, so let's start with the most basic things. When buying a router, you need to check the completeness, the set should contain keys for tightening the nut, a removable stop, bits (cutters). A good router may include spare brushes, a collet and additional guides with a roller or pin.
The cutter is installed from below, into the hole on the shaft and fixed with a collet using a clamping nut. On the milling cutter, the thrust pad is movable, it allows you to change the depth of cut. The depth is fixed with a special clamp with a handle, and the exact one is set using a nut on a threaded stud. In appearance and shape, locking latches may differ slightly for different tools, but the principle of operation is the same for all.
Before starting work, it is necessary to tighten the nut on the collet well, set the depth and clamp the lock.
Remember that when the router is moved quickly, small chips may appear on the profile, and the load on the tool will increase markedly. Slow movement of the cutter gives a cleaner profile, but there is a risk of burning on the profile. What is also not good, then these places are difficult to sand.
In order to make profiles on the edges of parts, there are milling cutters with a support bearing.
Milling on the edges of countertops is called the common word "moulding", although the profiles themselves may differ in shape.
To pass profiles at a distance from the edge of the part, end mills without bearings are used. In this case, the use of a guide stop is mandatory, otherwise the grooves and grooves will not turn out to be even. In any case, the milling cutter with the cutter must go along some kind of stop. Useful for more serious work.
Set of cutters.
A cone cutter is used to pass a V-shaped groove. A groove or groove is passed both for decorating the surface and for assembling parts.
Grooving cutter "dovetail", used in the processing of parts, for the manufacture of spiked joints.
Profile cutters with ball bearing support are used for processing the edges of wooden parts. This profile is suitable for countertops, we can say that this is one of the options for "moulding".
Cutter for the passage of the inner oval on the edges of parts, the old name is "fillet". Usually such cutters are called "fungus".
To remove a sharp edge, use a cutter with sharpening at 45 *. This profile is often used and is called a "bevel".
Pictures diynetwork.com
Woodworking can be both a profession and a hobby. It will be interesting for novice craftsmen to learn how to choose a manual milling cutter, what are the techniques and rules for preparing and working with a tool, what equipment may be needed when making wood products. We'll talk about this.
Wood milling is the mechanical processing of a material that removes part of it to create grooves, grooves, edges, holes, figured patterns on the surface, and obtain parts of complex shape. A milling cutter is a hand-held power tool for woodworking with a working body - a milling cutter. A milling cutter is a single or multi-bladed tool that cuts wood while rotating. The possibilities of the work performed depend on the modification of the router, the number and type of cutters, as well as the density of the wood and the experience of the master.
Types of hand routers
Wood milling is used in the manufacture of furniture, the production and installation of doors, the laying of wooden flooring, for various kinds of crafts. The choice of tool depends on the prospects for its use: special and universal purposes.
Special cutters:
- submersible (for holes, grooves, grooves of any depth - the motor with the cutter moves along the vertical axis);
- edging (only for edges, chamfers - with a guide bearing);
- lamellar (for rounded linear grooves);
- dowel (for grooves, for dowels, tenon-groove assembly);
1 - submersible; 2 - edging; 3 - lamellar; 4 - dowel
The universal milling cutter is completed with two bases. In this case, the tool works as a plunge tool and processes the edges.
When choosing a tool, you need to pay attention to the parameters:
- power (0.8-1.3 kW is enough for a home master);
- cutter speed;
- compliance with power and "speed";
- type of clamp (the best is a conical collet);
- speed control (smooth, clock);
- maximum immersion depth;
- work accuracy;
- smooth start;
- security locks;
- the presence of a dust extractor.
By determining the level of importance of each parameter, you can find a router that matches the upcoming tasks and intensity of operation.
Types of cutting tool
Structurally, cutters can be monolithic, with replaceable blades, prefabricated, soldered. Materials: carbide or high-speed alloys, cermets, etc. The configuration of the tool corresponds to the recess or shape of the edge that must be obtained on the product.
Varieties of groove cutters:
- straight;
- fillet;
- structural;
- shaped;
- "dovetail";
- "mouse tooth", etc.
Varieties of edge cutters:
- straight;
- moulding;
- disk;
- curly;
- horizontal, etc.
Each cutter is produced in various standard sizes. The easiest way is to purchase a kit containing a set of cutting tools for a specific activity. The diameter of the part to be fixed must match the collet of the router.
The procedure for working with a manual milling cutter
The easiest way to start learning is on a plunge router. Visually, such a tool is the most cumbersome and complex, but it is easier to work with it, since the direction of the cutter is fixed by the design of the machine perpendicular to the surface being machined.
Step 1. Fix the cutter shank in the collet.
It is necessary to insert the shank into the chuck and tighten with the key intended for this. At this stage, it is important to correctly calculate the tightening torque. Constriction is undesirable and insufficient fixation too.
Attention! If deep cutting is planned, it is better to take a cutter with an extended shank.
Step 2 Depth setting
If the work is carried out according to the drawings and the groove is shallow, you just need to set the appropriate depth on the limiter and set the fine adjustment (if the model has fine tuning). If milling is performed "by eye", you need to evaluate the depth of immersion of the tool by attaching the milling cutter to the end face of the product. The depth can also be selected in stages - when working out more than 3-8 mm (depending on the diameter), precise work or at the training stage.
Step 3 Approbation of the work of the milling cutter
For those who have no experience in milling, have acquired a new tool or work with an unfamiliar wood species, it is advisable to use a “draft” - the same piece of wood as the future product. It is necessary to test the work of the cutter, changing the speed, direction (toward, away from you, turn clockwise and counterclockwise) and the depth of the recess, monitor the accuracy. Adjust settings.
Step 4 Determine RPM
When the cutter is working, an important indicator is the circumferential speed - the speed of rotation not of the shank, but of the surface of the cutting tool in its widest part. If rotated too fast, the cutter will pull out the fibers of the wood and leave gaps, if too fast, the material will burn. If the rotation is too slow, the surface of the product will be rough, as if covered with “ripples”.
When adjusting, the rule applies: the larger the diameter of the cutter, the lower the speed on the shank (shaft revolutions) should be. Some manufacturers supply tools with instructions: wood / diameter / speed. If there is no such data, you need to experiment.
1 - too low speed; 2 - too high speed; 3 - uneven movement of the cutter at high speeds; 4 - good result
Step 5 Product fixation
The processed wood should not wag. The result of the work will be spoiled, you can injure yourself. The workpiece must be laid on a reliable base and secured, for example, with clamps. When using a template, it is also fixed.
Step 6 General rules for preparing for work
You need to mark the workpiece (when working without a template). The movements of the milling machine should not be abrupt. Smooth start and smooth, uniform movement along the calculated trajectory, correctly selected number of revolutions - a recipe for an ideal and beautiful result.
When working, you should not lean with your whole body on the router or let it float freely. The clamp must be tight, confident, uniform throughout the entire stage.
Attention! The instructions for the machine will indicate how to properly hold the router. Each model has handles that ensure safety during operation.
Step 7 Finished product milling
The beginning of work can be on the edge of the products (open groove) or in its array (deaf groove). In the first case, you must first install the router, and then turn it on. In the second - turn on, and then feed the cutter to the desired point. Upon completion of milling, turn off the tool after removing it from the wood.
When making deep grooves and stepped cuts, always turn off the tool for adjustment. The maximum one-time depth should correspond to the diameter and material of the cutter, the density of the wood. To obtain a smooth surface, the last removal should not be thicker than 1.5 mm.
It is important to correctly determine the speed of the router along the line being processed. Too slow will give overheating and burns. If the movement is too fast, sawdust will not have time to be removed, the work will be difficult, it may look sloppy.
The basic rule when choosing the direction of movement of the milling cutter: in the direction of the running of the cutter blades (cutting edges). This applies to both free milling and tooling.
To process edges, to obtain a certain edge configuration, sometimes the router is fixed under the table, and the cutter rises above the tabletop, and woodworking is performed by the movement of the workpiece relative to the cutter. Thus, from the category of a hand tool, it goes into the category of a mini-machine.
Equipment when working with a manual milling cutter
To facilitate and speed up the work, it is advisable to use simple devices, such as:
- guide rails;
- parallel stop;
- rod compass;
- copy sleeves;
- templates.
All fixtures can be purchased, and some can even be made by yourself and improved to match the author's idea.
The parallel stop provides rectilinear movement of the cutter relative to the workpiece, the edge of the workbench, the guide bar. This device is usually included in the instrument package.
The guide rail (bar) allows you to guide the tool not parallel to the edge, but at any given angle. It must be secured with clamps to the table. A homemade version is a fixed wooden plank limiter.
A rod compass is needed to perform circles, arcs, geometric curves. When working with a compass, the movement should be carried out in a counterclockwise direction.
The copy sleeve makes it easier to guide the tool along a complex path and ensures accuracy. In combination with templates, the best result is achieved.
There are two types of templates: internal and external. It all depends on whether the tool moves along the inner or outer edge. When moving along the inner contour of the template, the router must be driven clockwise, along the outer contour - against. The template must be thick enough so that the copy sleeve does not touch the workpiece.
It is also necessary to work with a router using equipment carefully, smoothly and equally, as with free milling. Perhaps the first time you get a not too outstanding milling result. This is the type of work where experience and attention to detail are very important.
In the tool kit of many home craftsmen, a milling cutter takes pride of place. A universal router is an electrical device designed to process the surface of wood or metal products. The milling machine simplifies the work of manufacturing a variety of products, creating recesses for loops, various grooves.
For these works, expensive and professional equipment is not necessary at all: a simple universal tool is enough.
With the help of a milling cutter, you can make a lot of household items and carry out any operations with wood or metal. Milling cutters are needed for processing flat and shaped surfaces. These tools create technological recesses, grooves for various connections, and even complex patterns that serve as decorations.
Milling cutters differ in the installation method - these are stationary machines and manual milling cutters. Machine tools, in turn, differ in the type of operations performed.
Stationary devices are placed in large factories or factories - where it is necessary to manufacture a large number of parts of the same type. The cutting nozzle in them is fixed motionless, and the part that is being processed moves.
The most versatile and suitable for a wide range of tasks are hand-held electric mills. When using a hand tool, the workpiece is fixed rigidly, and the tool itself moves. In milling cutters, there is a constructive ability to fix the tool, so manual devices are recognized as more versatile.
To change the type of work, it is enough to change or position the nozzle in a different way.
In particular, what can be done with a manual wood router, which has the right equipment:
The wide possibilities of this tool allow it to be used by both professional construction or repair teams, and novice home craftsmen.
It is indispensable in the manufacture of interior decorations, the production of furniture or the creation of various crafts.
Universal router device
To maximize the use of a manual device, the master must be guided in the design of the device and the purpose of its main parts.
The main part is an electric motor hidden in the body. Holders with collets are inserted into the body. Collets are adapters for the use of milling cutters of various sizes.
The cutter is inserted into the collet and fixed with a special button or clamping bolt.
The body is placed on the platform with two rods. The platform is made of metal and is quite massive and stable. Attached to the bottom of the platform is a smooth sliding plate that allows the tool to move smoothly over the part.
The case also houses the "Start" button and the tool lock button. The operating mode is selected using:
- Knobs and setting scales that can be used to adjust the depth of milling. They allow you to adjust the depth with an accuracy of 1/10 mm.
- Speed switch. For those who are just starting to get acquainted with the tool, it is recommended to work at medium and even low speeds.
In some modifications, there is a parallel stop that allows you to move the cutting part to the left or right. This is very convenient for some types of wood milling.
According to their purpose, hand-held devices are conditionally divided into the following types:
- Upper.
- Kromochny.
- Lamella.
Top-type milling cutters are fixed or submersible. In stationary devices, the cutting part cannot move along the body. Therefore, to adjust the depth of processing, the master is forced to move the entire tool, which requires certain skills and experience.
When choosing a unit, preference is often given to plunge cutters. In them, the motor is located on guides along which it can move along with the cutting part. In addition, in the submersible type of devices there is a spring responsible for raising the nozzle at the end of work.
Milling wood with a manual edge-type router is the chamfering and processing of the edges of workpieces. When using different nozzles, it is possible to process not only straight, but also curly surfaces: for example, to make skirting boards or process curly door panels.
The lamellar type is used to create various grooves. Of all types of hand routers, it is the most highly specialized.
Tool selection rules
The choice of a suitable type of electric cutter depends on the technological tasks set. Based on them, a device with optimal functionality and suitable technical characteristics is selected. In addition, the need and availability of additional devices is taken into account. These are clamps, different stops, templates, with the help of which the workpiece is processed more accurately and safely.
First of all, a device with suitable power is selected. The mass of the tool depends on this characteristic. Therefore, manual routers are divided into light, medium and heavy.
Lightweight devices with a minimum mass have a power of no more than seven hundred and fifty watts. The middle category has a power of up to one thousand one hundred watts. For heavy devices, this value is more than one thousand two hundred watts.
In the case of simple and non-intensive tasks, or if the processing material is exclusively wood, the purchase of a high-power device is not justified. Very powerful tools have a low shaft speed.
The speed of rotation of the router is also one of the important characteristics of the tool. The speed indicator ranges from 7,000 to 24,000 rpm. Different materials and types of work for processing require different rotation speeds.
Brittle and hard materials and large cutting depth require a low-speed powerful tool. High speed devices are suitable for polishing, grinding, engraving or for processing wooden parts.
When choosing a device, the location of the on / off button is important. The convenience for the hands, and hence the speed of processing the workpieces, depends on this.
Collets differ in material, workmanship and their design. The best collets are cone-shaped and made of hardened steel. Such elements wear out less and last much longer than collets, which are made of ordinary steel.
Modern routers are often equipped with a built-in dust removal element during cutting. An effective vacuum cleaner can be located directly in the housing.
The sole of the tool can be cast or stamped (in inexpensive models). The quality and speed of performing production tasks depend on the density and uniformity of the fit of the sole to the material being processed.
The base support has holes for accommodating rails.
The size of the hole diameter of the lining affects the maximum diameter of the cutter that can be installed on this device.
Distinctive features of a professional class router:
- The presence of a whole set of various additional elements for the device.
- The presence of metal bushings instead of polymer ones.
- The strength of metal sleeves with bearing assemblies. They guarantee the absence of backlash after repeated overheating and cooling.
Professional models are able to actively work for several hours without a break. Simpler devices require a fifteen-minute break after working for a comparable length of time.
The issue of choosing a tool is difficult to overestimate, but you need to learn how to manage it. It is necessary not only to read the user manual, but also watch a video tutorial on how to work with a wood router.
Basics of working on an electric mill
Before starting practical use, like any equipment, the electric cutter needs to be set up. First unscrew the safety nut and remove the clamping collet. Be sure to check that all threaded connections are tightened to the end and that all threaded connections are reliable. Then remove the dense protective grease.
The cutter is inserted into the collet chuck. If necessary, the cartridge is changed to a suitable diameter. The shank is tightened with a special key so that the cutter does not hang out. Then there is the clamping of the spindle.
The position of the cutter is fixed and the required depth of milling is set with the help of the limiter regulator. The correct speed of the device is determined based on the data of the table of correspondences between the parameters of the material and the size of the cutter. Turn on the device with the "Start" button and make a control cut.
Before real work, you need to check what stroke of the router, the value of the spindle speed and select the depth of penetration of the drill. This is done in draft form. If the product undergoes circular processing, then tool should move counterclockwise and away from you when moving on a flat base.
Beginners in carpentry work often make a common mistake: they change the speed of movement of the device with a figured processing contour. In this case, the machine overheats and burns appear on the workpiece.
Before working with a wood router, it is advisable to read application lessons in good sources.
Grooving
If the groove starts from the very edge, then the cutter should hang over the edge of the part. Then the required depth is set and the tool is started. When the edge is completely processed, the latch is loosened. The cutter is raised and the tool is switched off.
A blind groove is made in the same way, except that the cutting does not start from the edge of the part.
When the groove is very deep, it is cut in several passes. With each new pass, a new depth of no more than five millimeters is established. The depth of the last layer should be no more than one and a half millimeters.
End surface treatment
Creating a clean edge is one of the most common types of work with a hand router.
First, a shallow cut is made. The electric cutter moves in the direction of rotation, then in the opposite direction. After this action, the correct outlines appear at the end.
Working with Curly Templates
Templates allow you to make copies of parts and are used to create curly edges.
With the help of fasteners, the stop ring of the template is attached to the sole. The thrust ring is a plate that moves along the template and forms the necessary trajectory of the cutter.
decorative trim
Decorative patterns are often made to decorate wooden products. The manual machine perfectly copes with the task of artistic milling. You just need to learn how to properly process a pliable tree - and you can mill.
When working on a pattern, in addition to the router itself, you will need a vice, a chisel and a jigsaw. A wooden blank with a pattern on the surface is firmly fixed, and a special cutting nozzle walks along the contour, removing layer after layer of the blank. Gradually, the pattern becomes voluminous.
If you use a cutter of different diameters, you get an individual ornament.
Details of universal hand routers are described in the work of Jackson Day "Working with routers".
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