Safety devices on a circular woodworking machine. Detailed portrait of a circular saw What a riving knife is made of

In this article we will talk about woodworking techniques for a home workshop. You will learn how to properly debug circular machine so that it does not spoil the workpiece during longitudinal cutting. The article presents techniques and tricks when working with longitudinal blanks.

Burnt wood problem hard rock(oak, beech, birch) when sawing along the fibers on a circular saw, it is solved only by grinding. And this is an additional operation, and quite time-consuming. The appearance of tan marks is a sure sign of incorrect machine settings, while an overloaded engine suffers, the disk wears out heavily and the workpiece deteriorates.

The most likely causes of tanning

Tarred disc. Resin can be quickly removed special tool or wash off with a common solvent (this is a little longer).
Blunt or broken disc soldering. They can be restored, replaced or sharpened in a special workshop, but it is easier and faster to replace the disc with a new one.
Skewed parallelism limiters.
Incorrect workpiece feed.
Structural defects in wood.

The first two causes are eliminated relatively easily and quickly - by cleaning or replacing the cutting blade. The other three are more serious, and further we will tell you how to deal with them.

Reception of setting the parallelism of the disk and the stop with improvised means

Set the stop 100 mm from the disc.
Take a bar 60-70 mm long and screw a round head screw into the end. This head, when the bar is pressed against the stop, should cling to the tooth of the disk.
Mark this tooth with a marker.
Slide the workpiece with the screw onto the other side of the disc and rotate the disc itself until the marked tooth lines up with the head of the screw.
The force when the tooth hooks the head of the screw should be the same at the beginning and at the end. This can be determined by ear - the metal of the disk perfectly reproduces vibrations. If the sound at the beginning and at the end is different, you need to more accurately set the saw device in accordance with the instructions (for different models methods will be different.
Professional models with a stationary saw have an adjustable workbench*. To do this, loosen a few bolts (with which the workbench is fixed to the frame). Carpentry-type machines provide for precise editing of the position of the saw unit.

* Means part stationary saw, which is also called the "saw table".

Precise setting of parallelism with a clock indicator

This is a more professional and accurate method, but it will require a special device - an hour indicator ICh-10. In this case, the reference point for the stop is the disc groove.

Install a rail or bar in the groove.
Install ICH-10 between the rail and the limiter. Then reset to zero.
Using the ICH-10, adjust the stop according to the readings of the instruments - the difference in readings should be zero.

As you can see, this method is much faster and more accurate (scale division 0.1 mm), but such a device costs about 20 USD. e.

Disk alignment trick

The saw device is always fixed with several bolts. Therefore, when adjusting it, it is best to use one of them as an axis around which the entire mechanism or disk will move (by millimeters):

Choose an "axle" bolt based on the location of your saw's fasteners.
Loosen it, and then tighten it a little more than hand-tight.
Carefully loosen the rest of the bolts until there is no play.
Set the mechanism or disk to the desired position, focusing on the readings of the ICH-10 or the alignment device.
Do not press on parts of the mechanism to move it, but tap on reliable parts - this will be more accurate.
After reaching the exact position, tighten the "axial" bolt first - this way the setting will not go astray.

This method is relevant for any stationary circular, reciprocating or band saws.

Rivet knife trick

The final step in fine-tuning the machine is to check and adjust the riving knife. This is a strip of metal behind the saw blade that opens up the cut to prevent pinching. It must be strictly vertical and parallel to the disk. Parallelism is checked by the usual rule. For safety reasons, some models are equipped with pressure toothed plates - they prevent the workpiece from returning (the disk rotates towards the operator). Their adjustment comes down to checking the spring force.

Sometimes when wood has high density, a regular riving knife is not enough - the unfinished workpiece tends to return to starting position and there is a clamp behind the riving knife and the inevitable burn marks. Masters in this case use a simple solution that has no analogues in terms of simplicity and reliability: an ordinary expansion wedge on a leash.

Wedge for circular on video

How to make an expansion wedge:

After the workpiece has passed the regular expansion knife, insert a wooden wedge into the cut.
Next, perform a full pass of the workpiece and fix the extreme position of the wedge.
Choose a fixed point above the machine and pick up the driver along the length from the point to the wedge. It is advisable to use spring material.
Tie the leash to a fixed point (detail).
After the complete passage of the workpiece, the wedge will be removed from it and remain on the leash.

For convenience, when sawing many identical parts, you can adjust the length of the leash.

Proper workpiece feed

Burn marks and a damaged workpiece are the easiest consequences of improperly feeding a workpiece. Even well-adjusted knives and stops will not help if the workpiece is fed incorrectly - skew, jamming, reverse motion or uncontrolled jerk of the workpiece are very likely. Given the tremendous speed and strength circular saw, even a small, light workpiece can injure a person.

Correct submission rules:

Vertical clamp. At whatever angle you start the workpiece, remember that it must be firmly pressed against the saw table at a distance of 30-100 mm from the blade.
Horizontal clamp. Tight contact with the limiter will ensure a smooth run of the workpiece.
Wind and control the workpiece with two hands. This rule follows from the first two - one hand presses against the table, the other against the limiter.
For small parts make or purchase a pusher - it will avoid the dangerous proximity of hands and the saw blade.

Use a "clamp-comb". This device is freely sold (price from 3 USD), has many options. You can also make it yourself (especially if your circular is homemade) in specific sizes. To do this, you need to make a lot of cuts in the bar and cut the “comb” at an angle of 75 °.

Of course, when working on machines, one should not be distracted or do other operations in parallel.

Structural defects in wood

Usually defective wood is rejected at selection. Working with such blanks is fraught not only with tan marks (they will certainly appear even on a precisely set machine), but also with injuries. In this case, the material can be clean, without rot and knots.

The main signs of structural defects:

Longitudinal curvature along the thickness of the workpiece. Masters call such blanks "saber". If the curvature is small (the height of the deflection is up to 10 mm per 1 m), the workpiece can be pressed harder when sawing. Workpieces of greater curvature are rejected.
Longitudinal curvature along the width of the workpiece. The popular name is "rocker". The rule is the same as with the "saber", but the allowable deflection is 20 mm.
The grain of the wood is not parallel to the workpiece. The most dangerous type of defect is that there are significant internal stresses in the workpiece. When sawing, they are released and it can behave unpredictably. The only option to use such a blank is to align it with a thickness gauge (mutual electric planer).

The first two cases can lead to burn marks, the last one will definitely lead. The products of sawn wood that are skewed will also have curvature and must be loosened after installation.

Conclusion

A timely check of the machine will save you from the unpleasant duty of removing burns and scorch marks from workpieces. Remember that all manipulations with the machine must be carried out after it has been disconnected from the mains.

In this article we will talk about woodworking techniques for a home workshop. You will learn how to properly debug a circular saw so that it does not spoil the workpiece during longitudinal cutting. The article presents techniques and tricks when working with longitudinal blanks.

The problem of scorched hardwood (oak, beech, birch) when sawing along the fibers on a circular saw is solved only by grinding. And this is an additional operation, and quite time-consuming. The appearance of tan marks is a sure sign of incorrect machine settings, while an overloaded engine suffers, the disk wears out heavily and the workpiece deteriorates.

The most likely causes of tanning

Tarred disc. The resin can be quickly removed with a special tool or washed off with a common solvent (this is a little longer).
Blunt or broken disc soldering. They can be restored, replaced or sharpened in a special workshop, but it is easier and faster to replace the disc with a new one.
Skewed parallelism limiters.
Incorrect workpiece feed.
Structural defects in wood.

The first two causes are eliminated relatively easily and quickly - by cleaning or replacing the cutting blade. The other three are more serious, and further we will tell you how to deal with them.

Reception of setting the parallelism of the disk and the stop with improvised means

Set the stop 100 mm from the disc.
Take a bar 60-70 mm long and screw a round head screw into the end. This head, when the bar is pressed against the stop, should cling to the tooth of the disk.
Mark this tooth with a marker.
Slide the workpiece with the screw onto the other side of the disc and rotate the disc itself until the marked tooth lines up with the head of the screw.
The force when the tooth hooks the head of the screw should be the same at the beginning and at the end. This can be determined by ear - the metal of the disk perfectly reproduces vibrations. If the sound at the beginning and at the end is different, you need to more accurately set the saw device in accordance with the instructions (for different models, the methods will be different).
Professional models with a stationary saw have an adjustable workbench*. To do this, loosen a few bolts (with which the workbench is fixed to the frame). Carpentry-type machines provide for precise editing of the position of the saw unit.

* Refers to the part of the stationary saw, also called the saw table.

Precise setting of parallelism with a clock indicator

This is a more professional and accurate method, but it will require a special device - an hour indicator ICh-10. In this case, the reference point for the stop is the disc groove.

Install a rail or bar in the groove.
Install ICH-10 between the rail and the limiter. Then reset to zero.
Using the ICH-10, adjust the stop according to the readings of the instruments - the difference in readings should be zero.

As you can see, this method is much faster and more accurate (scale division 0.1 mm), but such a device costs about 20 USD. e.

Disk alignment trick

The saw device is always fixed with several bolts. Therefore, when adjusting it, it is best to use one of them as an axis around which the entire mechanism or disk will move (by millimeters):

Choose an "axle" bolt based on the location of your saw's fasteners.
Loosen it, and then tighten it a little more than hand-tight.
Carefully loosen the rest of the bolts until there is no play.
Set the mechanism or disk to the desired position, focusing on the readings of the ICH-10 or the alignment device.
Do not press on parts of the mechanism to move it, but tap on reliable parts - this will be more accurate.
After reaching the exact position, tighten the "axial" bolt first - this way the setting will not go astray.

This method is relevant for any stationary circular, reciprocating or band saws.

Rivet knife trick

Sometimes, when the wood has a high density, a regular riving knife is not enough - the unfinished workpiece tends to return to its original position and there is a clamp behind the riving knife and inevitable burn marks. Masters in this case use a simple solution that has no analogues in terms of simplicity and reliability: an ordinary expansion wedge on a leash.

Wedge for circular on video

How to make an expansion wedge:

After the workpiece has passed the regular expansion knife, insert a wooden wedge into the cut.
Next, perform a full pass of the workpiece and fix the extreme position of the wedge.
Choose a fixed point above the machine and pick up the driver along the length from the point to the wedge. It is advisable to use spring material.
Tie the leash to a fixed point (detail).
After the complete passage of the workpiece, the wedge will be removed from it and remain on the leash.

For convenience, when sawing many identical parts, you can adjust the length of the leash.

Proper workpiece feed

Burn marks and a damaged workpiece are the easiest consequences of improperly feeding a workpiece. Even well-adjusted knives and stops will not help if the workpiece is fed incorrectly - skew, jamming, reverse motion or uncontrolled jerk of the workpiece are very likely. Given the enormous speed and strength of a circular saw, even a small, light workpiece can injure a person.

Correct submission rules:

Vertical clamp. At whatever angle you start the workpiece, remember that it must be firmly pressed against the saw table at a distance of 30-100 mm from the blade.
Horizontal clamp. Tight contact with the limiter will ensure a smooth run of the workpiece.
Wind and control the workpiece with two hands. This rule follows from the first two - one hand presses against the table, the other against the limiter.
For small parts, make or purchase a pusher - it will avoid the dangerous proximity of hands and the saw blade.

Use a "clamp-comb". This device is freely sold (price from 3 USD), has many options. You can also make it yourself (especially if your circular is homemade) in specific sizes. To do this, you need to make a lot of cuts in the bar and cut the “comb” at an angle of 75 °.

Of course, when working on machines, one should not be distracted or do other operations in parallel.

Structural defects in wood

The main signs of structural defects:

Longitudinal curvature along the thickness of the workpiece. Masters call such blanks "saber". If the curvature is small (the height of the deflection is up to 10 mm per 1 m), the workpiece can be pressed harder when sawing. Workpieces of greater curvature are rejected.
Longitudinal curvature along the width of the workpiece. The popular name is "rocker". The rule is the same as with the "saber", but the allowable deflection is 20 mm.
The grain of the wood is not parallel to the workpiece. The most dangerous type of defect is that there are significant internal stresses in the workpiece. When sawing, they are released and it can behave unpredictably. The only option to use such a blank is to align it with a thickness gauge (mutual electric planer).

The first two cases can lead to burn marks, the last one will definitely lead. The products of sawn wood that are skewed will also have curvature and must be loosened after installation.

Conclusion

Working on a round machine

Longitudinal sawing

Installing the longitudinal stop. Support for longitudinal sawing working across the entire work table from edge to edge, ideal for sawing artificial wood materials. However, when sawing solid wood (solid wood), such an emphasis can lead to an accident. Just as a partially cut kerf in surface hardened wood will pinch the blade, if not for a wedge knife, such internal stresses can also propel the kerf until it is pressed against the saw blade and gets stuck or possibly ejected. . If the fence has front and rear adjustments, it should be moved so that its rear end is 25 mm behind the front edge of the overhang of the saw, providing the necessary space to the right of the blade. Either install wooden block on the stop to ensure this clearance. For any stop setting method, it must be parallel to the disk.

Set the sawing width on the stop scale, make a trial cut on unwanted material and check the setting. If you don't trust the scale, use a ruler, measuring from the stop to one of the saw teeth on the side of the stop. Before switching on, be sure to fasten the stop.

Saw wide board. When cutting a wide board with one hand, move the workpiece from the back side (but not in line with the saw blade), and with the other hand press the board at the same time on the table and stop. Load the workpiece evenly. Use the help of an assistant when working with very wide boards, making it clear that you will guide the workpiece and adjust the feed rate.

Sawing narrow boards. When finishing slitting a narrow board, feed the workpiece with a wooden pusher. Rack with a cutout at one end and a rounded edge at the other. Use the second pusher to press the parts against the stop. Keep pushrods close to the machine so they are always at hand when you need them.

intersection

Edge cutting with bevel stop. In the case of a medium circular saw, the adjustable cone stop is relatively short, but often has drilled holes, with which you can install an additional long wooden stop on a standard support. Hold the workpiece firmly against the fence with both hands and feed at a relatively low speed. If the part is too short to hold with both hands, secure it with a clamp, for example, on a stop.

Moving Section Crossing. The friction between the large workpiece and the worktable can turn cross sawing with a conical abutment into a very hard job. Easy, smooth cross cutting capability helps improve the accuracy and precision of your work, regardless of the size and weight of the workpiece. The movable section of the working table of the round machine is longer than the middle one, which can be rotated 90° to 45° relative to the saw blade. Most stops have an adjustable end stop, which is necessary for the manufacture of several identical parts.

Running Bevels. To make a bevel on a round machine, set the appropriate stop to the desired angle, and then cut the workpiece in the normal direction. Note that the part was pressed firmly against the stop so that the saw did not move it backwards.

To get an angled cut, tilt the saw blade.

Getting the same parts

Getting the same scraps. Of course, it is very tempting to press the workpiece against the rip fence so that the same segments are obtained to the right of the canvas. However, the cut piece may be caught between the stopper and the saw blade and thrown towards the host. The right way is to either not slightly bring the longitudinal stop to the disk, or to fix the dividing block to the stop, which will act as an end stop for the workpiece, leaving a gap to the right of the blade.

Read:

DIY circular saw blade

This video shows how easy it is to make knife for a circular saw from a conventional rivet.

Spreading knife for circular

To be able to use the CMT thin series actuators on the circular WARRIOR W0703F.

Cutting identical pieces. On the rack extension, fix a wooden rod, which will serve as a stop for setting the same length for each workpiece.

Folds, grooves and studs

shake washers. The couple is skewed. swinging. The washer causes the edge of the blade to wobble as it turns from side to side and makes a wider groove than a regular kerf. Another way. mounting the knurled head. It is necessary to change the standard table setting to another one with a wider slot for the saw blade.

folding. As a result, as a result of the bending of the workpiece, two straight longitudinal cuts occur. The first cut is on the narrower edge of the part, leaving enough material on each side of the blade to provide sufficient support. Reset the rip fence and blade height and make a second cut that will remove the wood pulp. Make the second cut so that the cut in the wood is on the side of the stop, as the cut caught between the stop and the blade can be forced out by rotating the disc as the last fibers are cut.

Groove grooves. An oscillating saw allows you to cut a groove in one pass. Due to the lack of special equipment, first make one cut on each side of the groove, then, moving the longitudinal stop along the width of the blade, make alternating cuts until you have selected the entire groove between the two cuts.

Comb cutting. To get the central ridge, make two identical seams on the edge of one of the parts of the joint. Make the first cut at the narrow end, then turn the workpiece at the other end to cut off the second side of the comb. Remove cuttings from both sides of the comb.

Making a hairpin. Some machine tool manufacturers produce stud clamps. Also, you can do wooden pattern for fixing the workpiece during processing. Fasten the screws with two wooden rods of the same thickness on a 400x200mm plywood sheet. Both rods should be aligned along the long side of the plywood and leave room for the workpiece to be placed between one of them and the edge of the plywood. Screws use only one. away from the saw. end of the bar. To prevent the template from changing, glue an additional stop.

Fix the workpiece on the template and make one pass to cut one face of the stud. Turn the workpiece over to cut the second edge.

After that, partially cut off the excess wood from each side of the stud to check its insertion into the socket. If necessary, correct the fence setting before starting work on subsequent workpieces.

To perform the shoulders, fix the dividing block on the longitudinal stop so that they are correctly positioned relative to the blade.

If it is necessary to reduce the width of the spike, first cut the shoulders and then remove the waste with volumes of one blade thickness per pass.

Read:

You can change the pattern to make a bevel cut.

The junction in the spine is open. it gusset used in the construction of box products. This is done by hand. very time-consuming process, but on a round machine using simple device you can cut several of these connections in minutes. Use a wide-cut blade or install shake washers to select the lugs (grooves between the spikes). Calculate the distance so that an integer number of spikes is obtained, evenly spaced on both parts of the joint.

To create a template, attach a long wooden detail against the stop of the bracket and set the height of the blade just above the thickness of the workpiece, make a cut in the template.

Cross the wooden block from hard rock so that it fits snugly into the incision. Cut out a 50-75 mm rod and insert this piece of rod into the cut so that a short protruding pin is formed.

Reinstall the template at the end of the bevel and place the rest of the strip between the blade and the template pin, then secure the template to the stop and remove the bar.

Place the first part of the joint on the end and place it in the protruding spike of the template. Fix the workpiece.

Make a pass through the saw, then place the resulting cut on the template tenon and make the next lug a new cut.

Continue working in this order until you complete a series of spikes.

The spikes on the second part of the joint should be offset so that they match the eyes of the first part. Place the second piece at the end as in the previous operation, but between it and the template, place the rest of the strip.

Jigsaw Saw With Your Hands... A reciprocating saw based on an electric jigsaw - it can be! Now they are buying a tool that can simplify any manual work. They are also related to an electric jigsaw with a reciprocating saw - indispensable tools in the arsenal of a summer resident. Alas, why spend money on both, if, with little effort, of course, one can be converted into the other? Reciprocating saw li...

An emphasis for longitudinal sawing.

Having perfectly aligned the saw with one of the edges of the table, I attached it with M4 screws. To do this, I had to drill the iron base of the circular in four places.

In general, any circular is suitable for installation on a table, but if you choose the type of fastening with screws for the base, then it is better to choose a model with an iron base. The cast may crack.

There is another popular way to fix the circular to the table without drilling holes in the base - attach it with clamps that fix the base by pressing it to the surface. Only this method seemed to me not true enough in terms of accuracy and reliability of the installation, and I did not use it.

Another important parameter manual circular is the ability to connect a vacuum cleaner. If you saw without a vacuum cleaner, fine wood dust rises into the air.

The disc has been sawn to the top side of the table top. Height - 40mm (Bosh wood disc 160mm). The table top reduces the cutting depth by 9 mm. The depth of cut is set on the circular saw itself. It is convenient that the disk can be completely hidden in the table.

UPD: IMPORTANT! On a number of budget circulars, it may turn out that the disk is under an imperceptible slope. And all cuts will be beveled. Be sure to check with a tool square that the disc is at 90 degrees relative to the table surface. (before installing the saw, you can check the angle relative to the native platform. If the disk turned out to be not at a right angle and there is no way to set the ideal angle of the platform, you can put several strips of tin on one side under the platform, achieving perfect angle(you can use washers for the screws that secure the saw to the table, but this solution is worse)

Inside the table I placed a socket for the saw, which will now turn on with the start button.

This is how you can connect a vacuum cleaner to the saw. In general, the table is ready and you can saw. (done in one evening and one morning).

Of course, it is possible to cut without equipment using slats and clamps, but it is inconvenient.

This design, clinging to the edges of the table and aligning with them, can move along the saw blade. By pressing the rail against the sled, you can easily cut it exactly at 90 o. Thin pieces of wood can be placed inside the sled.

You can even cut the rail like a sausage :) For example, I cut several pieces of different thicknesses.

Slides solve only part of the problems. For longitudinal sawing, a side stop is also needed.

I glued brackets from plywood that will cling to the edge of the table.

Clings to the edges with a death grip.

The circular saw is a dangerous tool. In order not to saw off my fingers, I made from waste furniture board simple pusher.

I have already managed to work with this table, sawed and slats, furniture panels, plywood. It became much easier to perform all these works than I did when sawing off with a manual circular saw.

In the future, I will further refine this table:
- I will remake the side stop for longitudinal sawing, so that when moving, it always remains parallel to the disk
- I will put a removable riving knife to which the disc protection will be attached
- I'll make a dust extraction from the top of the table. (Now when I drink, the disc throws wood dust right in my face)
- I will finish the improved pusher. I have already begun to make a more interesting and convenient version of the pusher, I will write about this in the future.

I will gradually implement this in the future, but for now I will work like this.

The most common injury when working on a circular saw is the result of "blowback" of the workpiece. Now we will talk about how this happens and how to avoid such situations.

"Take care of your hand, Senya!" (c) Gennady Petrovich Kozodoev

In most carpentry shops, the circular saw takes one of the central places. or, as they are often called, circulars - this is something that no woodworker can do without when completing their projects. But at the same time, it is one of the most dangerous machines in the shop. Often circulars are operated in violation of safety standards: the absence of a saw blade protection casing, pushing workpieces without the use of automatic feeders and special pushers, a properly configured saw unit and parallel stops. As a result of this, the workpiece returns periodically. It is not uncommon to hear from experienced and newly minted carpenters: "Knocked out the workpiece, almost killed it. It whistled like a bullet near the temple. It flew through the entire workshop!"

Workpiece kickback is when the workpiece is suddenly thrown towards the operator at high speed. This results in the two most common types of injury:

Damage to the chest or head by a flying workpiece. Well, if you can get off with a slight bruise or bruise
Injuries of the hand or phalanges of the fingers due to falling into the rotation zone cutting tool. The person does not have time to react to the recoil and the limb, by inertia, falls on the saw blade. Lacerated wounds, crushing of bones, cut off phalanxes - this is the sad result of criminal carelessness

The sad result of criminal carelessness

Ragged wounds, crushed bones, severed phalanxes. Do you need it?

There are three more. You can live

Forewarned is forearmed

Departure of the workpiece occurs in several cases. First, when there is not enough pressure on the workpiece to parallel stop. Secondly, when the workpiece changes position relative to . In both cases, part of the workpiece hits the back of the saw and quickly flies out in the direction of rotation of the disk, that is, exactly in your direction.

Let's look at a few simple ways avoid knocking out the workpiece and finish the working day safe and sound.

1. Use a riving knife

The riving knife is a metal plate installed in the plane of the saw blade in order to prevent jamming of the rear part of the saw blade in the material being cut due to internal stresses in the wood or when the workpiece is displaced from the axis of the saw blade. How to correct the thickness of the riving knife is equal to the thickness of the teeth circular saw or slightly more.

riving knife

2. Use a spacer

Be sure to use a plywood, wood, or plastic insert. It mounts flush with the table of the circular saw and serves to minimize the distance from the body of the saw blade. Thus, neither the workpiece nor the trimmings will be pulled by the saw below the level of the table and the part will not be ejected towards the operator.

Soft plastic insert

3. Always Use Cross Cut Tools

Another way to avoid kickback is to use crosscutting fixtures or crosscutting carriages. This will allow you to fix the workpiece with clamps if necessary. Also your hands will be on safe distance from the saw blade. Well, the last bonus is always a high-quality and even cut without the risk of displacement of the workpiece relative to the axis of the saw. You can easily make this device yourself. and most machines are equipped with tables with "T" slots for guides

Spend only 2 hours to make a carriage

4. Do not start work without a pusher

You simply must use the pusher to make cuts. This inexpensive and simple device will reduce the risk of unpleasant situations during work.

What could be easier?

5. Install the saw blade guard on your machine

You will be surprised, but the protective cover is not an extra detail, which, in an incomprehensible way, turned out to be supplied with your machine. Right now, remember where you threw it, find it and install it on your machine! Using this "Unnecessary thing" will allow you to play the guitar and piano in the future, as well as type comments on this post with all your fingers))

We hope you take advantage of these tricky advice. And by the way, you already knew all this, but were afraid to put it into practice.