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A few words about sharpening chains for chainsaws

The chainsaw is an indispensable tool for suburban area, regardless of its size and age of the garden. But it's not enough just to own good tool still needs to be made to work properly. The most difficult moment is sharpening chains for chainsaws. This requires the study of their device and the ability to properly use auxiliary tools.

Determining when it's time to start the procedure is quite simple. With a well-sharpened tool, it does not take much effort to get it into the tree. As soon as it is necessary to increase the intensity of pressing, sharpening of the saw chain is necessary. Excessive wear also affects other important indicators:

• performance decreases;
• increased tension in the body;
• fuel consumption increases;
• the load on all links increases, reducing the life of the equipment.

With timely sharpening, less metal is removed, which means that the life of the chain increases.

The chainsaw will become the best assistant in the countryside

A well-sharpened saw ensures safe and productive work. This makes her virtually indistinguishable from others. cutting tools. But the many teeth and the complexity of their structure make sharpening a painstaking process. In the presence of necessary tool you can do the work yourself. But before you sharpen the chainsaw chain, you need to study the structure of the tool, especially the teeth.

• The tooth has two edges: top and side. The first is beveled at an angle in the direction of blade movement.
• The cutting link consists of a base, a tooth blade, a depth limiter. The blade, in turn, has a horizontal, falling back at an angle, blade and end vertical.
• difference between top line depth gauge and the front line of the back of the tooth determines the chip thickness. Usually it is 0.5-0.8 mm (ideally 0.6 mm). With each sharpening, this distance is reduced due to the reduction of the upper edge of the tooth. Therefore, it is necessary to make a control cut after 6-8 sharpenings.
• It is the corners that provide the cutting properties of the chain.

The rear corner of the top edge is the most important. Its value can be from 50 to 60°.

The rear angle of the end blade is formed by the tooth blade tapering backwards. It plays a role in lateral chip cutting.

The front angle forms the edge of the end blade with the sliding surface of the cutting link. Depending on the type of chain, its value is 60-85 °.

The chain tooth has a complex structure, but after studying it will be easy to sharpen

The sharpening angle is determined by measuring at a right angle from the top cutting edge to the guide bar.

Important! The sharpening angles of chainsaw chains can be different, but you need to remember the basic rule. When cutting wood soft breed(unfrozen) performance is higher the larger the angle. And you can smooth out the vibration when sawing hardwood (or frozen) by reducing the sharpening angle. In this case, the lowest indicator is 25 °, and the highest is 35 °. Only ripping chains have a sharpening angle of 10°.

The file must be held at a certain angle

The frequency of manipulations depends on the frequency of use of the technique. When working on a personal farmstead, the procedure may be needed only after a few months, but when a chainsaw is operating for professional purposes, three times a day is not enough.

Define working condition chain can be determined by its elongation and the type of chips that form during sawing. If the saw is well sharpened, the same sawdust comes out correct form. If it is blunt, the chips are small and sharp, with large quantity wood dust (similar to sawdust formed when working with a conventional hacksaw).

Important! The chain blunts faster if it hits the ground. Moreover, one touch is enough.

If this happened unexpectedly, and you do not know where to sharpen the chainsaw chain, then you will have to master the skills yourself.

For sharpening the chain at home, a special kit is sold. It should be purchased along with a chainsaw so that you don’t have to quit your job and go to the city if the equipment “plows” the ground.

A chain sharpening kit should be purchased at the same time as a chainsaw

You can choose the necessary tool yourself. These should be cylindrical (a holder is attached to it, which will “tell you” along which line to direct the tool) and flat files, a template, a hook for removing chips. Significantly simplify the process of vise (hands free).

In order for the first sharpening of the chainsaw chain to be successful, the video will become a visual aid and the best assistant.

It is more convenient to process teeth through one. First sharpen cutting. For this, a template is applied. Its arrows should indicate the direction of movement of the chain. When sharpening, you need to press on the front part, making a slight slope to the surface of the tire. Movements should be made easily and measuredly, the same number of times for each section. One tooth must be sharpened on the left, the other on the right.

Important! If the length of the teeth differs, it is necessary to grind everything down to the length of the shortest one.

The position of a cylindrical thin file should be such that its edge protrudes slightly beyond the upper edge of the tooth and is located at a right angle.

To sharpen the limiter tooth, you should use a thin file. The template should not be neglected. The marks on it will tell you how to properly sharpen the chainsaw chain so that unnecessary waste does not appear and vibration does not increase:

• S (Soft) determines the angle for working with softwood;
• H (Hard) - with hard or frozen rocks.

During sharpening of the teeth, their internal holes become wider. It is this parameter that does not affect performance, but the bases of the holes must be located horizontally.

Even if the work is arguable and is not as tiring as the first time, all the same, all measures must be taken to engage in this procedure less often without compromising the normal functioning of the equipment.

• Break in new chain before use. To do this, after installation, you should drive it for 1 minute at low speeds and the same amount at medium speeds. Such manipulations will ensure the lubrication of all parts with oil, warm up the sprocket and chain. You can also check the tension. If it is necessary to adjust it, wait until the tool has cooled down, and after necessary action warm up again at idle.
• Do not use a new chain with an old drive sprocket and vice versa. Change the sprocket after grinding two chains.
• Always check chain tension. Stretched may slip and injure the operator.
• The depth gauge must always be loaded and adjusted. This must be checked every fourth sharpening.
• Ensure a constant supply of good quality and sufficient oil for the chain, guide bar and sprocket. They must be constantly lubricated.

But even good master can't always be done manually. If the chainsaw was used without attaching importance to sharpening the chain, its cutting edge becomes completely shapeless. Then it is more rational to use the machine. They are of several types.

With such a device, you can sharpen one tooth in 3 movements.

• A hand saw is more of a chainsaw chain sharpener than a machine. Its working part resembles bow saw. Only instead of the cutting blade, a long cylindrical file is inserted. The configuration mechanism is quite complicated, but allows you to install everything required parameters. For processing one tooth, 2-3 movements are enough.
• The electric one is equipped with an abrasive disc. The adjustment system allows you to accurately set the chain at a certain angle, brings the disk to the edge to be sharpened. The addition can be protective screen, which will prevent sparks and chips from getting into your eyes.

The electric machine provides high precision and fast work

An automatic chain sharpening machine will do the job best. But not always nearby there is such equipment and an experienced specialist who can quickly carry out the work. The process of mastering the manual sharpening method will take some time, but the skills will remain “for life”: a personal chainsaw will always be in perfect condition, and the neighbors will ask for help or advice.

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Chainsaw chain sharpening angle. How to choose the right one?

Even the popular Stihl is not eternal: once the teeth of the chainsaw wear out, which is easy to establish by the nature of the chips formed. With a blunt cutting edge, the chips turn out to be small, because the working edge does not cut, but crushes the wood. Naturally, the efforts expended by the operator increase sharply. It's time to sharpen the saw. How to do it right - choose optimal technology, determine what angle of sharpening the tooth should be and how to check it?

External signs of a blunted cutting edge of a chainsaw tooth

Recall that the chainsaw tooth has a complex configuration (see Fig. 1), which also depends on the direction of chain movement. It has two working edges: the side, which is located perpendicular to the axis of movement of the links, and the upper, located at a certain angle to the direction of movement of the chain. In addition, a limiter is provided on each tooth, the parameters of which determine the height of the chip being removed. Since the main cutting force falls precisely on the working angle, then all subsequent work with the tool will depend on which angle to sharpen the tooth.

Picture 1 - The functional parts of the chainsaw tooth and their appearance

Before starting long-term work with a chainsaw, it must be inspected and test sawed, as a result of which:

1. Visually establish the presence (or absence) of a conical section adjacent to the corner of the tooth, as well as a radius rounding on it - the main signs of blunting (see Fig. 2).

1. Check the feed force at which the tool works stably, with a fast cut. For sharp teeth, the initial moment of penetration of the tooth into the wood occurs quickly, and without significant material resistance.
2. Find out the presence of chain vibrations during a steady cut - if they are noticeable, then the teeth must be sharpened.
3. Examine the appearance of the just cut end (especially if the tool is used for ripping). In the presence of rough chips and dents, the chainsaw chain must be sharpened.

Sharpening angles and chainsaw tooth configuration

The cutting edge of the tooth is characterized by the following parameters:

In addition, each tool model has its own tooth pitch, the value of which for household and semi-professional models is related to the power of the chainsaw, and the torque that the drive develops. For example, for rip sawing, the pitch is smaller (for example, 0.325 inches). The productivity of work will decrease, but the required effort will be significantly lower. The upper step values ​​for household chainsaws are extremely rarely taken, mainly when felling trees with a large trunk diameter. In this case, the motor power should not exceed 2500 watts.

The thickness of the cutting edge for most manufacturers of chainsaws is set to the same and equal to 1.3 mm (there are also edges with a thickness of 1.1 mm, but, firstly, they are extremely difficult to sharpen at home, and, secondly, such links are extremely little functional: they can only be used for sawing thin branches).

The height of the chain profile can be either 0.625 mm or 0.762 mm, and in the vast majority of cases, it is the low profile that is used for household gas tools. When sharpening limiters, this parameter is very important, because with a decrease in the height of excess values, the vibration of the tool during operation increases, although the quality of the cut remains satisfactory. Therefore, you should not get involved in reducing the height of the limiter when sharpening the tooth.

The chainsaw chain sharpening angle depends on the main purpose of the tool - for transverse or longitudinal sawing. Since the resistance of wood is always noticeably higher during longitudinal sawing, the tooth edge must also be very sharp. It is recommended to do it in the range of 6 ... 12 ° (for comparison - with the predominance of the transverse cut - up to 25 ... 30 °). Naturally, in the first case, sharpening should be done more often, and especially carefully, since the unacceptably small angle of inclination of the tooth contributes to its rapid chipping during chainsaw operation. This is especially important for links that are made of structural alloy steels containing silicon and manganese, for example, 40KhGS or 35KhGSA.

Chainsaw chain sharpening template

When purchasing a chainsaw, it is advisable to acquire a special template (see Fig. 3), with which you can easily set the optimal values ​​​​of the tooth angles. It controls the values ​​of the rear angles of the upper and end blades, as well as the front angle of the edge (it is indicated in the manufacturer's instructions, and can vary within 65 ... 80 °).

Especially important is the use of a template to evaluate the value of the back angle of the upper blade. This chainsaw chain sharpening angle is otherwise very difficult to determine, but meanwhile it must be maintained within rather limited limits - from 50 to 60 °.

The sharpening angle is measured by determining the angle between the upper cutting edge and a line perpendicular to the chain guide.

The angle of sharpening the chainsaw chain can be changed, depending on what work will be done. With increasing hardness of wood, its value should be less. In general, it is considered the optimal value of the angle of 10 ... 12 ° - for a longitudinal cut, and 25 ... 30 ° - for a transverse cut.

Figure 3 - Appearance template for sharpening chainsaw teeth

Sharpening can be done manually using a round file with a working diameter of 4 ... 5.5 mm, or on a machine. In the first case, it is extremely important to correctly position the tool relative to the tooth being sharpened. The upper edge of the working part of the file is located approximately one fifth above the upper edge of the tooth. The tool is placed perpendicular to the chain axis, and at an angle of 25 ... 30 ° to the upper edge of the tooth

One round file is not enough. To sharpen the limiter, you will need a flat file, and to clean the work site, a hook that removes the resulting sawdust. There are also special holders on sale, on which the lines of the direction of movement of the file relative to the axis of the chain are graduated. As can be seen from fig. 4, the holder can be installed on the tooth from above, and rest on its upper edge. Since the height of the holder is adapted to a certain chain pitch, it should be selected in relation to chainsaws of specific models and brands.

The minimum required set in order to obtain the correct chain sharpening angle by hand is shown in fig. 5.

Picture 5 - A set of sharpening tools and fixtures

First, the teeth are sharpened in one direction, and then in the other. Start with light pressing of the tool in the direction away from you, gradually increasing the load. During sharpening, a round file is periodically rotated along its axis.

Mechanized sharpening on the machine

Sharpening on the machine is much more convenient, and does not require high qualification of the performer. Such machines have an electric drive, and are equipped with special grinding wheels.

For a household workshop, it is worth purchasing compact units that do not take up much storage space and are suitable for quick and high-quality sharpening of chainsaw chains from different manufacturers. Such units must operate from a stationary 220 V power supply, have low power consumption (up to 100 W) and be easy to install on the circuit.

When choosing a machine, it is necessary to pay attention to the following technological characteristics:

• Possibility of processing teeth with different thickness top edge and different steps chains;
• The ability to adjust the angle of sharpening, within the limits indicated earlier;
• Availability of replaceable grinding discs;
• Constant cutting width.

The design of the machine is simple, and includes a drive motor, a shaft with a seat for a grinding disk, a handle with controls, and a device for attaching the machine to a chain. Adjustment of the pressing force on the element to be sharpened is provided by a spring clamp. Modern models grinding machines are equipped with a differentiated clamp, which provides for self-centering of the product on the machine. For convenience of work on the body of the clamp there is a measuring scale.

Optionally, the machines can also be equipped with a miniature electric light bulb that illuminates working area, as well as a hydraulic booster that facilitates sharpening.

The safety of work is ensured by a folding safety shield.

Sharpening the chain for longitudinal sawing with a manual tool

We sharpen the saw chain for sawing wood along the fibers. We are preparing a saw set to work with a home-made thickness gauge for chain saws.
Tools: file with guide (file holder, file holder) Champion, supplied with the Champion 254-18 chainsaw.
standard angle sharpening of the cutting edge of the tooth for saw chains intended for sawing wood across the grain is 35^. To cut wood along the fibers, an angle of 10 ^ is required. It is quite difficult to find such a chain outside the areas associated with logging operations. Chains of this type are mainly sold in coils of several meters, which is quite expensive for non-professional use. AT finished version, for the Champion 254-18 chainsaw, I managed to find only one chain - a chain with soldering Stihl Rapid Duro 3 0.325-1.5-72zv.
For this reason, it was decided to use a common saw chain re-sharpened for sawing along the fibers. Do not forget to grind off the cut depth gauge https://youtu.be/k25ztzraRzE.
Comprehensive information on the selection of care and maintenance of saw chains is available here: http://www.stihl.ru/p/media/download/ru-ru/saegekette_schaerfen.pdf
Information on the care of the saw chain, bar and troubleshooting when using chain saws on sawmills from Logosol is here: http://www.logosolinfo.ru/cms/downloads/skarutrustning_1-16_web.pdf

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Sharpening a chainsaw chain is easy. True, subject to the use of special tools. Without them, it is impossible to cope with the task: the saw chain has a very complex geometry.

The chainsaw chain is sharpened for longitudinal sawing as necessary. The more intensively the saw is used, the faster its chain becomes dull. In some cases, during the day you need to perform several sharpening. The fastest tire loses its sharpness when in contact with the soil. It is enough to hook the ground with it several times, as the chips become small, and the tool refuses to go deep into the wood.

Timely sharpening of the chainsaw chain for longitudinal sawing not only speeds up work, but also extends the life of the chain. Determining the moment when it needs to be sharpened is easy. Dull teeth are indicated by the need to increase the feed force during sawing. A dull chain can also be recognized by small chips - ideally, large thick chips should fly out from under the bar.

The nuances of sharpening

If you decide to buy a chainsaw, you will not regret it - they sell high-quality devices that can last for many years. The main thing - do not forget to sharpen the saw chain in time.

To obtain ideal cutting properties, certain angles are attached to the blades of the teeth. The back of the tooth, falling back, forms the angle of the blade (rear). It is necessary for cutting the chain into wood. The blade, tapering back, is needed to cut the chips in the assembly. In other words, each corner plays its role.

The angle of sharpening the chain can be changed, starting from the features of its application. For example, for longitudinal sawing, it should be 10 degrees.

General sharpening rules

The internal contours of the chainsaw chain are shaped like a circle. A small round file is used to sharpen them. It must be held with a confident hand and at a certain angle. The upper edge of the file in relation to the edge of the tooth should protrude by about 20% of the tool diameter. When choosing the diameter of the file, you need to start from the chain pitch.

One file is not enough for you. When sharpening the chain, use a special kit sold with a chainsaw or purchased separately. Sets of this kind consist of a hook for cleaning the chain from chips, a round file and a flat file used when filing the depth gauge.

Even with the most careful operation of the chainsaw, the owner sooner or later faces the need to replace the saw chain. The range is represented by several types that differ in pitch, configuration of cutting links and other indicators. Best chain for chainsaws - this is the model recommended by the instructions for use.

The guide bar and chain are interchangeable equipment, so the owners of budget chainsaws are given the opportunity to choose a saw set that is more wear-resistant and durable in operation.

The desire to increase the performance of the saw by installing a longer headset can only be realized if the engine has a sufficient reserve of power and torque.

It is best to independently choose a chain for a chainsaw that is optimal in terms of cost and operating parameter after consulting with an experienced specialist. Incorrect selection of headset components can reduce the performance of the chainsaw or initiate its early failure.

The quality of budget and branded chains is significantly different. Many owners of cheap household chainsaws prefer to operate their equipment with more advanced saw sets from the leading brands Stihl, Husqvarna and Oregon. The unofficial rating recorded an increase in consumer demand for similar products under the Hammer and PowerSharp brands.

The standard length of a household saw bar with a power of 2-2.5 hp. is 40-45 cm. The size of high-performance professional class analogues reaches 70 cm.

The higher price level of branded tires and chains is compensated by the high quality of complex sawing work, increased resource, stability of performance throughout the entire time of the service life specified by the manufacturer.

Properties of wear-resistant chains for general and special purposes

The types of household and professional grade chains intended for working with wood are distinguished by the quality of the material, the duration of the resource and the cost. Designed for work on concrete, the diamond chain, unique in terms of wear resistance, belongs to the category of special emergency equipment.

Wear resistant carbide chain might be one option. The overhaul life of such a product is an order of magnitude higher, but its sharpening requires special equipment that allows you to sharpen the cutting links at different angles, respectively, for standard transverse and longitudinal sawing.

The carbide chain is designed for efficient sawing of hardwoods and light building blocks. It should be borne in mind that when working on aerated concrete or foam concrete, the resource of a saw set, even the most prestigious brand, is reduced by 2-3 times.

Saw chain pitch characteristics

The selected chain must match the length of the guide bar and its design features. One of the main parameters for choosing a chain is its pitch, which is traditionally measured in inches.

In the cutting headsets of chainsaws of the household group, 3/8 inch chains are operated smoothly and safe in operation, in the metric standard - 0.325 mm.

Analogues with an increased pitch of the 0.404 ″ type are designed to complete powerful and productive chainsaws professional level, therefore, they are practically not used in household chainsaw equipment.

Self installation headsets with an increased pitch must be coordinated with the type and traction characteristics of the power unit.

Shank Options

Not less than important condition The correct choice of saw chain is the thickness of its shank, which varies from 1.1 to 2 mm. In inch standard shank sizes are 0.043/ 0.04/ 0.05/ 0.058/ 0.063 and 0.08 inches, respectively.

Chains with minimum thickness are operated in light low-cube models of a budget level. In household and semi-professional chainsaws in more analogues resistant to constant and variable loads are in demand, with a thickness of 1.3 to 1.6 mm. Reinforced chains with 2 mm shanks, complete with professional chainsaw equipment.

Design features

In the medium and high class chain, each cutting link is equipped with two shanks, which inevitably affects the increase in its cost. Owners of their own chainsaws are offered more affordable models of throughput or semi-throughput type.

In the first case, additional chain elements are located directly after the cutting link. In the second option - connecting elements mounted after every second pair.

In standard, pass and semi-pass chains, the number of saw links is 50, 40 and 37.5 percent, respectively. Simplification of the design of cheap products is inevitably accompanied by an increase in the load on the saw links, the need for frequent sharpening and a reduction in its service life.

Length

This chain indicator is determined by the number of links. Leading manufacturers indicate the length of the chain in inches or the number of links in the accompanying documentation. When buying any model yourself, it is recommended to know both parameters.

Professional grade circuit design features

The offered range can be divided into chains with chisel and chipper configuration of cutting links. In the first case, the link in the section is similar to the number 7. Such a profile provides increased productivity in sawing operations of increased complexity.

A significant drawback of the chisel "seven" is the complexity of manual sharpening, since even a slight deviation from the given angle, the main advantages of the seven profile are canceled.

The chipper links are sickle-shaped. The increased area of ​​contact with the sawn wood creates additional loads on the engine. On the positive side, the design of chipper circuits is valued for its stability of operation under high level contamination and less stringent requirements for precision finishing of cutting edges.

Types of materials

Standard saw chains are made from high quality chromium-nickel steel. To work with dense and frozen wood, chains with carbide links are recommended. A significant drawback of such models is the increased cost and the need to use special sharpening equipment with corundum nozzles.

Cutting depth and chain profile height

These parameters should be known to owners of professional models who sharpen chains manually at home. The depth of cut is adjusted by decreasing the stop height of each cutting link.

The parameters of the low profile and high profile chain are 0.025 and 0.03 inches, respectively. Knowledge of profile types is necessary for the correct selection of the height of the limiters.

Chain models for cross and rip cuts

The main range of saw chains with a cutting angle of 25-35° is designed for standard cross-cutting of wood. Models for longitudinal sawing on the domestic market are present in a minimum amount.

If necessary, the shortage problem is simply solved by changing the sharpening angle of standard chains to 5-15°. The tire in this embodiment is operated without changing the design.

All information given is valid for Chinese chainsaws and their components. Most of the Chinese chainsaw range is made up of more or less successful copies of leading European developers, so all standards are almost identical.

How is the need to sharpen the chain manifested?

Dull saw chain teeth significantly increase sawing time. The malfunction is manifested by increased vibration, back kicks when the headset enters the cut, the ejection of small chips and a clear smell of burnt wood.

With the help of a manual sharpening device installed on the headset, cylindrical and flat files, the cutting edge of the saw links is restored without removing the chain from the bar. A more advanced and productive way is to fine-tune the chain in a specialized workshop.

gives a significant gain in time, guarantees the same angle on all cutting elements of the chain. User feedback on automated sharpening is mostly positive. On the negative side, there is a template finishing of each saw link, without taking into account its wear and other individual characteristics.

Pro recommendations for the operation and maintenance of saw chains

A significant part of the used headsets does not fully develop the assigned resource.

The main causes of forced wear:

• low efficiency of the lubrication system;
• high degree of wear of the drive sprocket;
• excessive saw chain tension;
• use of substandard and surrogate chain oils.

Experts advise operating a set of several chains, changing them as needed. In this option, you can use the advantages of more productive mechanized sharpening.

Worn and damaged chains should be discarded in a timely manner. Even in the presence of an emergency stop brake and a safety device, the operation of parts that have exhausted their service life is characterized by an increased risk of injury.

How to eliminate the risks of buying a chain counterfeit?

On the domestic market, there is a small but stable range of fake parts for chainsaws and component materials of Asian, mostly Chinese production.

With all the desire to meet the quality of the European level, technical and operational properties Chinese copies are far from perfect, since they develop their resource somewhere by 50-70%.

This disadvantage is to some extent offset by lower cost. On the other hand, practice shows that only branded products guarantee long and trouble-free operation of chainsaw equipment.

Purchasing a part in a licensed or branded store will help you avoid the risks of buying a Chinese fake branded as a branded product.