Homemade circular saw. Do-it-yourself stationary circular saw - according to our drawings and manuals, everyone can do it. Homemade circular and jointer machine

It is difficult to imagine a carpentry workshop without a circular saw, since the most basic and common operation is the longitudinal sawing of workpieces. How to make a homemade circular saw will be discussed in this article.

Introduction

The machine consists of three main structural elements:

  • base;
  • sawing table;
  • parallel stop.

The base and the sawing table itself are not very complex structural elements. Their design is obvious and not so complicated. Therefore, in this article we will consider the most complex element - the parallel emphasis.

So, the parallel stop is the movable part of the machine, which is the guide for the workpiece and it is along it that the workpiece moves. Accordingly from parallel stop the quality of the cut depends on the fact that if the stop is not parallel, then either the workpiece or the saw curve may jam.

In addition, the rip fence of a circular saw must be of a fairly rigid construction, as the worker is exerting force by pressing the workpiece against the fence, and if the fence is allowed to move, this will lead to non-parallelism with the consequences indicated above.

Exist various designs parallel stops, depending on the methods of its attachment to circular table. Here is a table with the characteristics of these options.

Rip fence design Advantages and disadvantages
Two-point attachment (front and back) Advantages:· Pretty rigid construction · Allows you to place the stop in any place of the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); Does not require the massiveness of the guide itself Flaw:· For fastening, the master needs to clamp one end in front of the machine, and also go around the machine around and fix the opposite end of the stop. This is very inconvenient when selecting the required position of the stop and is a significant drawback with frequent readjustment.
Single point attachment (front) Advantages:· Less rigid construction than when fixing the fence in two points · Allows you to place the fence in any place of the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); · To change the position of the stop, it is enough to fix it on one side of the machine, where the master is located during the sawing process. Flaw:· The design of the stop must be massive in order to provide the necessary rigidity of the structure.
Fastening in the groove of the circular table Advantages:· Fast changeover. Flaw: Sophisticated design, Weakened design of the circular table, Fixed position from the line of the saw blade, Quite a complex design for self-manufacturing, especially from wood (made only from metal).

In this article, we will analyze the option of creating a design of a parallel stop for a circular with one attachment point.

Preparation for work

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the necessary set of tools and materials that will be needed in the process.

The following tools will be used for work:

  1. A circular saw or you can use .
  2. Screwdriver.
  3. Bulgarian (Angle grinder).
  4. Hand tools: hammer, pencil, square.

In the process, you will also need the following materials:

  1. Plywood.
  2. Massive pine.
  3. Steel tube with an inner diameter of 6-10 mm.
  4. Steel rod with an outer diameter of 6-10 mm.
  5. Two washers with an increased area and an inner diameter of 6-10 mm.
  6. Self-tapping screws.
  7. Joiner's glue.

The design of the stop of the circular machine

The whole structure consists of two main parts - longitudinal and transverse (meaning - relative to the plane of the saw blade). Each of these parts is rigidly connected with the other and is complex design, which includes a set of parts.

The pressing force is large enough to ensure structural strength and securely fix the entire rip fence.

From a different angle.

The general composition of all parts is as follows:

  • The base of the transverse part;
  1. Longitudinal part
    , 2 pcs.);
  • The base of the longitudinal part;
  1. clamp
  • Cam handle

Making a circular

Preparation of blanks

A couple of things to note:

  • planar longitudinal elements are made from, and not from solid pine, like other parts.

At 22 mm, we drill a hole in the end for the handle.

It is better to do this with drilling, but you can just fill it with a nail.

In the circular saw used for work, a home-made movable carriage is used from (or as an option, you can make a false table “in haste”), which is not very a pity to deform or spoil. We drive a nail into this carriage in the marked place and bite off the hat.

As a result, we get an even cylindrical workpiece, which must be processed with a belt or eccentric grinder.

We make the handle - this is a cylinder with a diameter of 22 mm and a length of 120-200 mm. Then we glue it into the eccentric.

Cross section of the guide

We proceed to the manufacture of the transverse part of the guide. It consists, as mentioned above, of the following details:

  • The base of the transverse part;
  • Upper transverse clamping bar (with oblique end);
  • Lower transverse clamping bar (with oblique end);
  • End (fixing) bar of the transverse part.

Upper cross clamp

Both clamping bars - upper and lower have one end not straight 90º, but inclined ("oblique") with an angle of 26.5º (to be precise, 63.5º). We have already observed these angles when sawing blanks.

The upper transverse clamping bar is used to move along the base and further fix the guide by pressing it against the lower transverse clamping bar. It is assembled from two blanks.

Both clamping bars are ready. It is necessary to check the smoothness of the move and remove all defects that prevent smooth sliding, in addition, it is necessary to check the tightness of the inclined edges; gaps and cracks should not be.

With a snug fit, the strength of the connection (fixing the guide) will be maximum.

Assembly of the transverse whole part

Longitudinal part of the guide

The entire longitudinal part consists of:

    , 2 pcs.);
  • The base of the longitudinal part.

This element is made from the fact that the surface is laminated and smoother - this reduces friction (improves sliding), as well as denser and stronger - more durable.

At the stage of forming the blanks, we have already sawed them to size, it remains only to ennoble the edges. This is done with edging tape.

The edging technology is simple (you can even glue it with an iron!) And understandable.

The base of the longitudinal part

And also additionally fix with self-tapping screws. Do not forget to observe the 90º angle between the longitudinal and vertical elements.

Assembly of the transverse and longitudinal parts.

Right here VERY!!! it is important to observe the angle of 90º, since the parallelism of the guide with the plane of the saw blade will depend on it.

Installation of the eccentric

Guide rail installation

It's time to fix our whole structure on circular machine. To do this, you need to attach the bar of the transverse stop to the circular table. Fastening, as elsewhere, is carried out with glue and self-tapping screws.

... and we consider the work finished - the do-it-yourself circular saw is ready.

Video

The video on which this material was made.

Content:

For any job to be successful, you need to have good equipment and tools. The same statement is also suitable for amateurs (or professionals) to "tinker" with a tree. Furniture maker or other wooden products always trying to get various tools and tools to help them get the job done.

For example, a planer. This device significantly increases the productivity and quality of woodworking. But not all fans can buy it, because its price is quite high. And how to get out of such a difficult situation? There is a solution, and it is quite simple - this is to make a desktop jointer with your own hands. And the manufacturing process itself will be discussed in the article.

Why do you need a planer

A woodworking workshop can have a variety of machines, but the most commonly used (of course, except for a circular saw) can be called planer and planer devices. These two types of aggregates are somewhat similar in their function, but differ in the way they are used.

If you need to make a wooden blank in the form of a board, beam or shield, then it is better to use a thicknessing machine. Such a device, the main tool of which is the same knife, is able to cut the source material into two parallel parts. In this case, both of them will be adjusted to certain sizes.

Thicknessing machines are available in both single-sided and double-sided types. In the first case, only one side of the workpiece is processed in one pass. More productive is a double-sided thicknessing machine. Here, the output is already obtained almost finished part.

For thicknessing machines, the shaft is located above the tabletop. Moreover, the latter is made massive in order to smooth out large vibrations. In addition, the mechanism is equipped with a special casing, which is designed to absorb noise.

At planer slightly different task. This device is used to create a smooth, without significant roughness, surface on the workpiece. Such a machine, like the previous version, is equipped with a shaft with knives, only in the jointer it is located under the tabletop.

The workpiece is fed to the working surface from one side, the exit from the opposite side is already partially processed. In this way, the desired evenness is achieved layer by layer. After processing on a planer, the part can be fed to a planer.

Basic concepts

In such equipment there will be numerous rotating parts. From this we can conclude that it will not be so easy to make such a machine with your own hands. Therefore, starting to manufacture it, you need to calculate your strength. If you already have some similar experience, then you will cope with the task.
It should be noted right away that to make a jointer completely from parts own production you won't succeed. Of course, perhaps in your "bins" there is a large assortment various devices, but this rarely happens. First of all, this concerns the shaft with knives and bearings. They, most likely, will have to be bought in addition or even ordered. But if everything you need is available, then you can safely proceed to the design.

Some parts for the planer: cutter shaft, knife bearings, you will have to buy or order

First of all, it is worth understanding what kind of “complete set” you want to receive. There may be several options here:

  1. just a grinder. It will only serve one function;
  2. set of jointer and circular saw. In this case, the functionality of the machine is doubled;
  3. equipment capable of performing the role of a jointer, and a circular saw, and a grinder, and a grinder and drilling machine. Such a device will be very useful for your workshop, but it will be difficult to do it yourself.

The most optimal and easiest option to perform is to make a jointer and a circular saw on one bed. Plus, both tools will rotate from one electric motor. This feature greatly facilitates our task.

Consider the main components of our future table jointer. It will include:

  • Bed. This design will hold the entire machine and equipment installed on it. For its manufacture, it is best to use durable channels, with a wall thickness in the range of 8-10 millimeters. The bed can be made both collapsible and capital. In the first case, all its components will be connected with bolts and nuts. If you do not need a portable machine, then the channels can be fixed together by welding. This option will be more reliable. You can do without a bed if its role is played by the desktop;
  • Work tool. This is one of the most important components of the machine. The jointer knives and the saw itself - it is with their help that you will saw and process the boards. Knives are firmly attached to the shaft. They must be made of reliable and strong steel. Circular saw with victorious soldering. Such a tool will serve you much longer;
  • Rotor - it is to it that all tools will be attached. Without this part, it is impossible to make any machine, thickness gauge or circular saw. Finding a suitable rotor can be quite difficult, so it is better to order it from a professional turner, after providing it with drawings;
  • Desktop. For a normally functioning machine, you will need three surfaces. One will serve as a desktop for a circular saw, and the other two for a jointer. The thickness of the material for the working surface must be at least five millimeters. For these purposes, multi-layer plywood or metal sheets. In this case, it is desirable to make a small difference in height for surfaces intended for jointing. The side on which the workpiece will be fed should be a couple of millimeters lower than the one to which the already processed side will go. Such a difference will facilitate the work and significantly reduce vibration.

Planer electric drive

And of course, do not forget about the drive. All mechanisms must rotate. This means that the drive will be the "heart" of the machine. Here are some recommendations for this design element:
- First of all, prepare the electric motor.

Planer motor

It is best to use a three-phase unit for these purposes. Of course, in this case you may have to redo the electrical network in your workshop, then it's worth it. Three-phase electric motors, operating at a voltage of 380 V, are capable of developing high power. In addition, the torque of such devices is suitable for our purposes. Minimum value in terms of power it should be 3 kW, but the maximum is at your discretion;

  • to transfer torque from the electric motor to the working shaft, it must be carried out using belts. A two-strand wedge-shaped shape is best suited for these purposes. Such belts are more reliable;
  • the electric motor itself can be mounted on a cantilever, directly inside the machine frame. This method will help solve the problem associated with belt tension. If you want to strengthen the engine more firmly, then you need to add a slide to the design, with which adjustment will be carried out;
  • to increase the shaft speed, it is worth using two pulleys. One, of larger diameter, is installed on the electric motor. A pulley with a smaller cross section is mounted on the shaft.

Be very careful with the power supply of the machine. Three-phase current is supplied through a four-wire cable. In this case, reliable grounding must be organized. These requirements will help to avoid accidents when working on the machine.

Drawing. The main stages of creating a jointer

Bench Planer - Blueprint

Bench planer - drawing (part 2)

Planer, the simplest version of it without additional features, you can quite easily make your own hands. The general course of work in this case will look like this:

  • first prepare all the necessary parts, tools and materials;
  • we create a drawing of the future machine. Without this "document" it is impossible to start work. With the help of the drawing, you can calculate all the nuances and prepare for them. In addition, having such a plan will greatly facilitate and simplify the task;
  • further, we transfer all the dimensions of future parts to the workpiece and manufacture them;
  • a very important detail is the place to install the rotor bearings. It is made from several blanks.

When bonding, glue and clamp are used. The recess must ideally fit the size of the bearing;

  • Next, we install the electric motor. To do this, as noted above, you can use cantilever mount, or install the unit on the skid;
  • the next step is to assemble the rotor with the bearing and install them in their place. At the same time, the connection to the electric motor is carried out using a belt drive. Check that the rotor rotates freely in the bearing;
  • further, the assembly and installation of the working surface is carried out. It will consist of two parts - serving and receiving. In this case, the second should be a couple of millimeters higher than the first. The working surface can be made of plywood, and for greater strength and longer service life, upholstered with sheet iron.

After creating the system, turning the electric motor on and off, the machine is ready for use. But for your new tool brought only benefit and joy of work, it is worth exploiting it correctly and safely.

A rotary machine, like any mechanism, needs correct operation. If you do not comply certain rules, the device can quickly fail. And in the worst case, you yourself will get injured. Therefore, when using, you should follow the recommendations from experts:

  • In order for the machine to work reliably, it is necessary to periodically carry out preventive maintenance. Such a complex includes the following measures - checking the reliability of the location of the knives on the shaft, injection of bearings, checking the electric motor, inspecting the belt drive for sufficiency of its tension, checking all contacts, and so on;
  • rotating parts are always dangerous. And if they are also equipped with sharp blades, then the risk of getting herbs is very high. To increase the safety of operation, it is better to cover the shaft with knives with a casing. It will open when the wood piece originates, and close again when idle;
  • Observe all safety precautions when operating the machine. This is especially true for the quality of workplace lighting. Hang a powerful lamp above the machine, and the very room of your workshop should be bright. Also pay attention to the quality of the floor. If it is too slippery, then it is better to install a wooden platform or a rubber mat;
  • do not use excessive force when planing or cutting material. Excess force will not speed up the work, but only spoil the workpiece or lead to breakdowns of the machine itself;
  • do not hesitate to invite an assistant when processing long workpieces. So the work will be done faster, better and safer for your health.

Of course, you should keep your desktop clean. After finishing work, with the machine turned off and de-energized, clean the device from chips. The same thing needs to be done periodically to perform large volumes. Turn off the machine and remove any accumulated chips from all mechanisms and surfaces. Cleanliness will make your job easier and help keep your plant running longer.

The video will discuss in detail one of the options for a homemade planer.

Video: homemade planer

Often, wood processing is carried out by planing. Planing is a process with a straight-line feeding of a tree into the cutting zone, when the cutting plane, the cutting surface and the machined surface coincide. The planer has a shaft with knives that are mounted on a bed and move around its axis. In this case, the workpiece performs a reciprocating motion. The jointer is very popular. A similar woodworking machine has been used at home for the past few years. Industrial models of such equipment are quite expensive, but homemade jointers can also be made, which can also be used in wood processing.

Main knots

Before you make a homemade jointer, you need to create drawings and deal with the main elements that will be included in the scheme. As a rule, a planer consists of the following main elements:

  1. beds;
  2. shaft with a knife;
  3. roller;
  4. the electric motor from which rotation is supplied;
  5. several tables;
  6. tenacious horse.

The created drawing of a home-made jointer should contain information about the distance at which the electric motor with a roller and the shaft with knives are installed. The circuit determines how much the number of rotations at the output will be reduced and the power will be increased.

Manufacturing

We make a bed

The bed becomes the basis for the machine. You can do it yourself, taking into account the following points:

  1. Most of all, a metal profile is suitable for creating a frame for a homemade jointer. It is light weight and easy to dismantle.
  2. When creating a drawing, it should be taken into account that the structure must distribute the load and be stable.
  3. All elements must be firmly fixed. The mechanism installed on the frame, taking into account the material being processed, exerts a significant load.
  4. The elements are fastened together by welding or threaded connections. If you need a homemade jointer to be mobile and transported if necessary, then you need to choose threaded connection. Welding is more reliable, but the design will be non-separable.

It should be borne in mind that the planer must be installed level. Therefore, when connecting all the elements, the level is strictly maintained.

Installation of a shaft with knives

A home-made jointer, like the industrial version, has a drum with knives on the surface, which, when rotated, removes the tree from the surface of the workpiece. The features of the installation of this element include:

  1. The drum is a mechanism that consists of two bearings, a blade and a central shaft to which rotation is transmitted.
  2. It is almost impossible to make blades with your own hands, since this requires a lathe and a vertical milling machine.
  3. The drum is mounted on the frame through bearings that have special fasteners.
  4. The mechanism with blades must be firmly attached to the base, since it is on this node that all the load is concentrated.
  5. A pulley for a belt must be installed at the end of the output shaft. However, you can make it yourself. The profile of this element should be selected according to the profile of the belt.

Many drawings have a scheme in which the blades on the axis are installed in the central part of the bed.

Table

The design has two tables, which are located on opposite sides of the drum. The complexity of their manufacture lies in the fact that the fastening mechanism must rigidly fix the surface. A do-it-yourself planer must have smooth surface tables. This is due to the fact that the tree will be fed with strong pressure. If there is strong friction between the table and the workpiece, then processing is significantly more difficult.

In addition, it should be taken into account that the table must be level relative to the drum with blades. In this case, the height must be adjusted, for which a special mechanism is installed. With your own hands, you can create a similar adjustment mechanism by using a threaded connection.

Another important point it can be said that the table should have a width and length according to which workpieces will be fed. You can also make a collapsible mechanism with your own hands.

Drive motor installation

Rotation cutting tool comes from an electric motor. When considering recommendations for installing an electric motor, consider the following points:

  1. It is quite important to choose the right type of electric motor and its power. A planer homemade jointer can remove a fairly large layer of material in one pass. For domestic use suitable electric motor with a power of more than 1 kW. AT recent times models that are powered by 220 V are very popular.
  2. The machine will work correctly if the motor pulley is in the same plane with the drum pulley. It is quite difficult to do this, you need to use measuring tools and level.
  3. It is important to choose the right pulley diameters. The difference in diameters allows to reduce the number of revolutions at the outlet, which significantly increases the traction force.
  4. The belt must be well tensioned. It should be borne in mind that they are produced according to established standards and have a certain length. Therefore, the distance between the pulleys is carefully measured.
  5. It is recommended to create a seat on a homemade jointer for an electric motor with the ability to adjust its position. This will allow the belt to be tensioned when its length has increased due to wear.

Particular attention is paid to the safety of a homemade jointer. The electric motor of the machine must not be grounded through the bed, as under certain circumstances electric shock may occur.

hard stop

Last constructive element, which you can also create with your own hands, is a hard stop. It is necessary to maintain the rectilinear movement of the workpiece along the table. To do this, the craftsman also exerts a transverse force while feeding the workpiece in the longitudinal direction. The emphasis is installed on the far edge of the table, with your own hands it can be made from an ordinary piece of wood, for which it is enough to improve the quality of the surface for a minimum degree of roughness.

In conclusion, we note that a homemade jointer is made as safe as possible, since it has a large number of rotating elements. To do this, you can create a special casing from wood or plastic that will cover the electric motor, rollers and belt. You also need to pay attention to the fact that a homemade jointer must have a rigid installation.

Planing equipment is an indispensable component of a full-fledged woodworking process. Factory products are quite expensive, so a homemade planer is quite suitable for home use.

The purpose of this tool is the longitudinal alignment of a piece of wood or chipboard (painted or adhesive-containing materials can dull the cutting elements of the equipment). After planing on a jointer, the machined side of the workpiece becomes smooth and even, which is necessary for subsequent calibration on a thicknesser machine or milling.

Industrial options differ in size and significant weight, which ensures the suppression of vibration arising from rapidly rotating machine parts (up to 12,000 rpm). total length the working surface of such equipment is 2–2.5 m. The width of the table, which determines the maximum width of the workpiece to be processed, is in the range of 400–600 mm.

Simpler jointing machines that you can make yourself at home have less weight, dimensions and, accordingly, a shaft speed (no more than 6000 rpm). The total length of countertops on such equipment is 1–1.5 m with a width of 200–300 mm.

The main components of the jointer

  • Bed. A massive element that provides structural rigidity, chip removal, and placement of the electric drive.
  • Working tables (serving and receiving).
  • Stubborn line. For cutting at an angle.
  • Shaft with cutting elements (knives).
  • Electric drive. Provides rotation of the shaft through a belt drive and pulleys.
  • Protective mechanism rack or fan type.

The main components of the jointer

Additionally, your jointer can be equipped with a workpiece feed mechanism and suction system chip removal.

Self-made jointer

Before starting any do-it-yourself machine manufacturing activities, you will need three things: a project, materials and tools. All of them are interconnected, since the project directly depends on what materials are available and what tools are available. If not welding machine and the skills to work with it, it makes no sense to consider a project involving a welded structure.

The metal structure can also be assembled using bolted connections. This option will have some positive qualities: The bolt planer can be dismantled if necessary without much effort.

For the carpenter the most convenient optionwooden structure, but it is inferior to metal in rigidity and in the life of some elements of the machine. In addition, certain nodes cannot be made from a tree.

Part of the components will have to be bought or ordered. These are parts like:

  • shaft with knives, fixing wedges, a set of bearings, yokes;
  • electric motor;
  • pulleys;
  • belt;
  • starting device.

To draw up a project, you need to decide what functions the device will perform. The following options are possible:

  • Jointing machine. A device whose purpose is to plan a part on one side without calibration.
  • A two-operation machine that performs a function and a jointer.
  • multi-operation machine. Such devices can be used for sawing, planing, grooving and milling, like a thicknessing machine.



The jointer is the easiest to manufacture, it requires less tools, material and skills.

Bed manufacturing

The main element of the planer, it will have work tables, a shaft with knives and a stop ruler. A drive will be installed in the body of the bed, and chip removal will also be implemented. To make the design rigid, you will need the appropriate material.

  • for the upper part, on which the tabletops are located, it is suitable for a height of 100 mm and a wall thickness of 5 mm;
  • legs and bottom platform can be made of metal corner(50 mm);
  • the structure is fastened by welding or bolting.

Assembly diagram of the machine bed

Shaft with knives

This unit must be purchased as a set. The kit should include:

  • knives;
  • bearings with housings (yokes);
  • wedges with which knives are fixed.

The quality of the material and the balancing of such elements made in the factory are much higher than home-made specimens.

This unit can be ordered from a turner, providing him with drawings and specifying the details. It is good if the turner works at the enterprise and he has access to balancing equipment.

Work tables

Industrial jointers are equipped with massive cast tabletops with stiffeners to prevent deformations during operation. With the manufacture of their own hands, this is unattainable. Therefore, as the optimal solution for arranging the planer platform, it is better to use sheet material. Ideally, this should be a flat metal plate 10 mm thick, in the most extreme case - a sheet of plywood.

Plywood must be of sufficient thickness (at least 10 mm), in addition, you need to pay attention to the quality of the surface - the plane must be even. It is advisable to use sanded waterproof plywood, without small tubercles or loose knots. To increase the service life of a plywood countertop, you can attach a sheet of galvanized metal to its work surface with your own hands.

The serving table is made 2 times longer than the receiving one. This makes it easier to level the workpiece when jointing.

electric motor

The main parameters to consider when choosing an electric drive for your planer:

  • power;
  • number of turns;
  • operating voltage of the power supply network (220, 380 V).

The longer and larger in diameter the cutting tool, the more powerful the engine will need. It is possible to use a low power drive, compensating for the lack of power with pulleys, but in this case it will not be possible to achieve the speed required for clean processing.

As an example, consider a shaft with a diameter of 100 mm and a length of 300 mm. For stable continuous operation at a speed of about 6000 per minute, you will need a drive with a power of at least 3 kW. If you change the length in the input to 200 mm, you can use a motor with a minimum power of 2 kW.

As for the engine speed: it is more rational to use a drive that has at least 3000 rpm. Otherwise, pulleys will have to be used to obtain sufficient revolutions of the cutting tool.

The operating voltage of the drive depends on the voltage electrical network in a workshop. An engine that runs on 380 V will be more powerful and more reliable than an engine with the same rated power, but designed to work on a 220 V network. But in a home workshop, 380 V is a rarity, and connection costs so much that these funds can buy an inexpensive factory jointer.

It should be remembered that this is a home-made jointer for domestic use, and it does not need to be ruthlessly loaded, strict for the entire width of the knives at 5 mm per pass. Not every industrial unit (especially a modern one) can withstand such loads.

The shaft with cutting elements is attached to the top of the bed in the middle, the exact location depends on the size of the work tables between which it must be located. The shaft and the table top must be in the same plane so that top point cutting tool knives coincided with the top surface of the receiving table.

The feed table is mounted in the same plane as the receiving table, but 1–2 mm lower. This distance determines the thickness of the chip removed in one pass. The quality of planing depends on how exactly the planes of the surfaces will coincide, namely, how even the planed workpiece will be.

Machine Assembly Scheme

There are options for adjustable height of the feed plane by means of eccentrics or a screw mechanism.

When assembling a planer with your own hands at home, it is very difficult to qualitatively implement such a mechanism. It can be considered an incredible achievement if this equipment will plane evenly with fixed worktops.

The electric drive is mounted on the bottom platform of the frame. It is advisable to use an adjustable platform to install the engine in order to provide a more convenient belt tension. The tension mechanism can be implemented using a technological hole in the platform and a screw with a nut as regulating elements.

Connecting mechanisms

Rotation is transmitted from the engine to the shaft by means of a belt drive, through pulleys. The pulleys are sized according to the power and RPM of the engine.

For a drive with a rotation of 3000 rpm, a ratio of 1 to 2 can be considered normal. For example, the diameter of the cutting tool pulley is 100 mm, on the drive it is 200 mm. Optimal ratio when assembling with your own hands, it can be obtained experimentally and largely depends on the quality and balancing of the rotating parts of the planer.

The drive is connected to the mains by means of starting device according to the instructions for the motor.

Alternative option

More simple and fast way to make a do-it-yourself planing machine is to use a manual electric planer, having previously upgraded it a little. Every self-respecting home carpenter must have such a tool available. All that needs to be done is to make a device for fixing it.

The easiest option for making a machine with your own hands is to use sheet material as the basis.

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