How to arrange ventilation ducts in a private house: design rules and construction guide. Ventilation ducts in a private house: how to design an efficient supply and exhaust system How to calculate the cross section of a ventilation duct for a kitchen

have your own a private house out of town is great. But along with space and comfort come additional worries and responsibilities - controlling the operation of an autonomous heating system, roof waterproofing, ventilation system installation. Many do not realize how important ventilation is in the house until they encounter its absence. Without regular ventilation, condensation accumulates on the walls and ceiling, the finish deteriorates, bearing structures damp and rust. It is easy to guess that such a house will not last very long, and it will be completely uncomfortable to live in it. To avoid such problems, it is necessary from the very beginning to take care of installing ventilation in a private house.

Depending on the method of setting the air in motion, there are two types of ventilation systems: natural and forced. In the first case, the air flow moves independently due to the difference in pressure. It is known that air is always directed from the area high pressure to the low area. In nature, this is how wind is created, and on the scale of a single house - sufficient ventilation of the premises. However, it is almost impossible to create the necessary pressure drop in a house of 2-3 floors. This method is relevant only for urban high-rise buildings, so we will consider it only in general terms.

But it is worth paying attention to forced ventilation. The principle of its operation is the mechanical injection of air masses by means of fans. Depending on the nature of the air movement, such systems can be:

  1. Supply - fans suck in fresh air from outside.
  2. Exhaust - fans remove the exhaust air from the house.
  3. Mixed - best option system in which fresh air enters the house and exhaust air is simultaneously removed.

Air masses can enter the room different ways: through special openings in doors or windows, ventilation windows, channels and air ducts.

natural ventilation

Natural ventilation in a private house is best used as additional method ventilation of premises. It is good if the house is located in an environmentally friendly natural area. If you live near a highway, construction site or factory, it is better to refuse such a system, because toxic gases and unpleasant odors will enter your house along with the air.

Natural ventilation is perfect for houses made of brick, wood, adobe, clay, foam blocks or monolithic expanded clay concrete. These materials have sufficient porosity and do not interfere with free air circulation.

To make natural ventilation in a private house even more efficient, you need to provide air with unhindered access from room to room. To do this, so-called overflow holes or gratings are installed in the lower part of the door panels, and a gap of 2 cm is left between the lower edge of the door and the floor. increased level humidity. In this case, their area should be at least 80 cm².

Forced ventilation

As we have already said, the forced-type ventilation system is the best choice for a private house. It provides the interior space with a sufficient volume of air, and if you install special filters, then this air will also be completely clean. For sandwich panel houses, which have become very popular over the past few years, installation supply and exhaust ventilation required. Otherwise, the tightness of the structure will not allow air to circulate. Mixed systems are also recommended to be installed in buildings made of expanded polystyrene concrete and frame houses.

A video about ventilation in a private house will help you better understand the situation:

Installation of the ventilation system

Before proceeding with the installation of ventilation in a private house with your own hands, it is necessary to develop an action plan and make calculations. How much air will the system pump into the house, and how quickly will it be able to bring the spent masses out? The calculation of air exchange depending on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house will allow you to choose the optimal power of the system.

You should also determine the cross section of the duct. The microclimate in the house will depend on this. After choosing the type of system, draw a detailed project for the ventilation of a private house: where the channels will pass, fans and openings will be located, with which parts will be attached, etc. The plan should show the sequence of actions, necessary materials and the end result of the work.

Each ventilation system has a certain rate of air mass movement. In a house with natural ventilation, this figure is approximately 1 m³ / h, while with mechanical ventilation it increases to 3-5 m³ / h. In private houses, only 2-3 floors, the air velocity is small, so it must be increased by force.

How to make a calculation

Before installing ventilation in a private house, it is necessary to calculate it. In this case, one should take into account not only the total area of ​​​​residential and technical premises that require ventilation, but also the number of people living in the house. In some cases, for example, if you like to party often with a large number of guests, you need to consider this as well.

You should also take into account the fact that almost all electronics and Appliances reduce the volume of clean air. Gas stove, for example, during operation, intensively burns oxygen, so it quickly becomes hot and stuffy in an unventilated kitchen. When calculating, determine in which rooms you need to increase air exchange. Usually these are rooms with a high level of humidity (kitchen, bathroom), but if the house has a boiler room, it also needs a lot of clean air.

You can calculate air exchange in different ways, but most of the methods require professional knowledge, charting and tables. Facilitate the task of the current state standards, calculated in accordance with sanitary standards and the specifics of the use of residential buildings. The rules and regulations in them will help you quickly determine the required capacity of the ventilation system. Most often used for household purposes simple circuits calculations: by area, multiplicity or sanitary standards.

Let's take a quick look at each method:

  1. It is easiest to calculate air exchange by area, so most self-taught masters use this method. In addition, these calculations are only applicable to residential buildings. According to current regulations, 3 m³ of fresh air per hour per 1 m² of area must be supplied to residential premises. Thus, to find the amount of air exchange, you must first determine the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house, and then multiply it by 3.
  2. Calculating air exchange by multiplicity is a little more difficult, and this method is mainly used by specialists, but it gives more accurate results. Calculations allow you to find out how often the exhaust air must be replaced with new air in order to fully comply with accepted standards and ensure high-quality ventilation.
  3. The calculation according to sanitary standards takes into account the results of calculations by the multiplicity, and also uses standards measured in m³ / h for each person in the house. Typically, this method is used in the construction of ventilation in offices, shops and other buildings where there are constantly a lot of people, but their number is not fixed.

If you try to calculate the air exchange rate in all three ways, you will get different results, but they will all be correct, because they completely correspond current regulations. For a private house, it is most convenient to use the first method - calculation by area.

Section of the ventilation duct

When you have calculated the air exchange and know how much ventilation should be, it's time to choose the cross section of the air ducts and choose their layout. In stores, you will find two types of rigid ducts: rectangular and round.

The easiest way is to choose the optimal channel section using a special diagram that takes into account the speed of movement of air masses and their consumption. For example, if the standard air exchange is 360 m³ / h, then for a ventilation device in a private house, rectangular ventilation ducts 160x200 mm in size or round ones with a diameter of 200 mm will be needed.

Supply valve

Today, metal-plastic windows are installed in every second house. Double-glazed windows have earned wild popularity due to their exceptional performance characteristics- they do not allow moisture to pass through, reliably protect from the cold, but at the same time they impede the microcirculation of air in the house. If you decide to change wooden windows to plastic ones, then when choosing, check with the seller whether a supply valve is installed in the double-glazed windows. This detail allows oxygen to get inside the house.

If you already have double-glazed windows installed, but there are no valves in them, it's okay. You can install the inlet valve yourself. To do this, in the wall near the window do small hole, where a branch pipe is inserted, closed on both sides with gratings. Inside the pipe can have a filtration system so that only clean air gets inside. It may also have a layer of insulation or a special heater for air, so as not to cool the premises in winter.

Recuperators

Recuperation is the heating of fresh air on the way inside the house through the ventilation duct. The use of a heat exchanger in a private house is fully justified, and the cost of purchasing it is fully paid off during the heating period, after which you start saving on heating. If you have installed a supply and exhaust forced ventilation, then in winter the cold air will be drawn in by the fans and cool the premises. You will have to increase the heating power, use more fuel, and this process will continue continuously.

The heat exchanger is a special box with thermal insulation and a heater, which is mounted on the path of clean air in the supply duct or immediately behind the fan. The fan sucks in cold air, it enters the heat exchanger, heats up to a comfortable temperature and goes to the living quarters. As a result, you save up to 50% of heat.

Due to the large size of the heat exchanger, it will be most convenient to place it in the attic or in the basement.

Requirements for ventilation in a private house

Each owner wants to make high-quality and proper ventilation in a private house, but when faced with such a task for the first time, it is difficult to avoid mistakes. So that some of them do not become fatal, we recommend that you look at the list of requirements for ventilation systems for self-assembly.

How to install ventilation in a private house:

  1. Exhaust air from ventilation duct should be on the roof. If you lead the air duct through the wall, it must rise above the ridge beam by at least 50 cm.
  2. The intake grating of the forced system should be at a level of 2-3 m from the ground. Also, it must be covered with a fine-mesh net so that small insects and debris do not get inside.
  3. Organize the movement of air in the house in such a way that it goes from the bedroom, nursery, living room and other rooms towards the most polluted rooms - the kitchen, bathroom, boiler room.
  4. Plan the layout of the ventilation ducts so that they pass to each room.
  5. If the ventilation system contains filters, remember to clean or replace them from time to time. It is better to mount the supply valve with a filter in the wall closer to the window, so that later it would be more convenient to carry out Maintenance and cleaning.

Making ventilation in a private house is not so difficult if you make correct calculations and purchase quality equipment.

Ventilation in a private house: photo




The ventilation device in a private house is the most important issue, without solving which comfortable life you just have to dream.

But it is solved for the owners of a city apartment and a country cottage in different ways.

The first one has almost nothing to worry about, unless it becomes necessary to install a supply valve or a fan in the bathroom.

For the second one, everything is much more complicated: when designing a ventilation system for a cottage, an individual approach is needed, especially if the building has two floors and is equipped with airtight metal-plastic windows. In this article we will talk about how to properly ventilate a private house.

The function of the ventilation system (SV) is to bring fresh outside air into the room and remove the already exhausted one. Depending on how it is decided given task, distinguish the following types of SW:

  1. natural ventilation in a private house: as you know, a part of a liquid or gas with a temperature higher than that of the surrounding substance always rushes up. It is this principle that underlies the operation of natural SW. The exhausted warm air escapes by itself through a long vertical exhaust duct and at the same time plays the role of a pump, drawing in through supply openings air from the street.
  2. Forced: under certain circumstances, it is not possible to achieve the supply of air in the required volume due to convection alone. For example, if a filter is installed in the supply duct or the house is too large. In this case, the CB is equipped with a fan that provides forced air supply.
  3. Mixed.

Natural ventilation in a private house

With a mixed design, the main part of the SV operates due to the natural movement of air, but in some rooms where a high air exchange rate is required, fans are installed.

Choosing a ventilation system for a residential building

When designing a cottage, they try to organize ventilation according to a natural principle. Moreover, such buildings are mostly located in areas with clean air, so cleaning it is not necessary.

Because the modern windows are sealed, so-called supply valves are installed to supply fresh air. Such an element can be part of a metal-plastic window or be a separate device cut into the wall.

Design of ventilation systems

Supply valves and exhaust ducts are placed in such a way that the air flow follows through the entire house from the most clean rooms to the most polluted.

To do this, the hood is installed in:

  • kitchen;
  • bathroom;
  • laundry;
  • dressing room or pantry if the door this room goes into the living room;
  • boiler room (there should be both an exhaust hood and a supply valve);
  • rooms that are separated from the specified premises by more than 2 doors.

The installation of a supply valve is desirable in all rooms where an exhaust hood is not provided.

On the 2nd and subsequent floors, if there is an entrance door from the stairs to the floor, the exhaust ducts are arranged according to the same principle. If there is no front door from the stairs to the floor, the hood and supply are installed in each room.

It is also necessary to ensure natural ventilation of the following areas:

  • basement space (required to remove radon, which has radioactive properties);
  • underground space on the 1st floor.

Requirements for ventilation systems

Consider what should be proper ventilation in a private house. In living rooms, the SV should provide 1-time air exchange every hour, that is, the volume of air entering during this time should be equal to the volume of the room. At the same time, at least 30 cubic meters of clean air should fall on 1 resident.

The boiler room requires a 3-fold air exchange (also per hour) with a ceiling height of 6 m. At a lower height, another 0.25 times is thrown for each missing meter.

Forced ventilation project in a private house

The cross-sectional side of the exhaust duct during natural air exchange must be at least 10 cm long, while the minimum cross-sectional area is 0.016 sq. m.

exhaust duct for natural air exchange must be vertical, have a uniform cross section (without expansions and contractions) and a length of at least 3 m.

Within the floor, all exhaust ducts must have the same length - this ensures the equality of the traction force in them.

To ensure good traction, heat losses in the exhaust ducts should be minimized, so they are laid only in internal walls and the outside is well insulated.

Calculation

The purpose of calculating the SV is to determine the cross section of the exhaust ducts and supply valves, as well as their number. Each floor is calculated separately, and the following actions are performed:

  1. According to the normative documents The data determine the minimum volume of air Qp, which per hour should enter the premises with supply valves.
  2. According to the same standards, the minimum air volume Qv is calculated, which should be removed from rooms with exhaust ducts per hour.
  3. The largest of the obtained values ​​is taken as the required performance of the exhaust channels Qp.
  4. Based on the size of the building, the length of the exhaust ducts is set.
  5. According to special tables, such a section of the exhaust ducts is selected so that at a given length and temperature in the room they have the required performance.

To show the technique in action, we calculate the ventilation of a 1-story building. The building has an area of ​​120 sq. m includes the following rooms:

  • 5 rooms (total area - 90 sq. m.);
  • pantry or dressing room (4.5 sq. m.);
  • kitchen and bathroom.

The ceiling has a height of 3 m. The height of the ventilated underground space (the floors are wooden on logs) is 30 cm.

The calculation is carried out according to the above plan.

Step 1

According to the regulations, the air exchange rate in rooms with supply valves must be at least 1 volume per hour. Those in this case are the rooms. Therefore, the volume of air supplied per hour should be:

Qp \u003d 90x3x1 (multiplicity) \u003d 270 cu. m/hour.

Step 2

For rooms with exhaust ducts, the following requirements are prescribed in the standards:

  • for kitchen, bathroom and toilet: air exchange in volume, respectively, 60, 25 and 25 cubic meters. m/hour;
  • for the pantry and underground space: the air exchange rate is 0.2 volumes per hour.

Therefore, the total volume of air removed per hour should be:

Qv \u003d 60 + 25 + 25 + (4.5x3 + 120x0.3) x0.2 \u003d 119.9 cubic meters. m/hour.

Step 3

The performance of exhaust ventilation is taken according to the largest of the calculated values:

Qр = 270 cu. m/hour.

Step 4

Based on design considerations, we set the length of the exhaust ventilation ducts. Given the height of the attic, it will be 4 m.

Quality ventilation in the presence of gas boiler just needed for correct operation equipment and for the safety of residents. How to equip and what type of ventilation system to choose, read carefully.

In what cases is a supply valve to the wall needed and how to choose it correctly, read.

Ventilation in the bath should be thought out to the smallest detail, because in the steam room the air concentration decreases and a person may experience a lack of oxygen. Follow this link to see how the ventilation system in the bath should be designed correctly.

Step 5

According to the table, we determine that with a length of 4 m and a room temperature within 20 degrees, the performance of a channel with a cross-sectional area of ​​204 sq. cm will be 45.96 cubic meters. m/h (these channels are available in concrete blocks to be used during construction).

Therefore, we need at least 270/45.96 = 5.8 channels. After rounding up to the nearest largest integer, we get 6 channels.

Step 6

Let's try to distribute the resulting number of channels among the rooms:

  • kitchen, toilet, bathroom and pantry - one channel;
  • underground space - 2 channels (due to its design features).

However, with such a scheme in the kitchen, it will not be possible to provide the required air exchange: the exhaust duct capacity is 45.96 cubic meters. m / h, while the standards require an hourly air exchange in the amount of 60 cubic meters. m/h

It is proposed to increase the number of channels to 7 and install two channels in the kitchen instead of one.

Scheme of natural and forced ventilation with recuperation

The performance of the ventilation ducts installed in the pantry and underground is more than 10 times higher than the amount of air exchange required by the standards. So, in the pantry, instead of the required 2.7 cubic meters. m/h we have 45.96 cubic meters. m/h; underground - instead of 7.2 cubic meters. m / h received almost 92 cubic meters. m/h

However, it is impossible to reduce the performance of these channels to normal values ​​by installing small ventilation grilles, since they provide ventilation for the entire house, and in this case we will not be able to get an inflow of 270 cubic meters. m/h

An effective solution in terms of heat saving is the installation of dampers on the exhaust ducts, controlled by a hygrostat - a humidity control sensor.

SW with recovery

It is obvious that during the operation of ventilation, a significant part of the heat produced by the heating system literally flies out into the chimney.

Significant savings can be achieved by reorganizing the ventilation system and equipping it with a recuperator - a heat exchanger in which the heat of the exhaust air is transferred to the incoming flow.

The reorganization is as follows:

  1. The supply channel is arranged only one, so that for the distribution of fresh air into the premises, it is necessary to build a network of air ducts.
  2. The trajectory of the air flow must be made closed, combining the exhaust channels into one and bringing it to the supply (a heat exchanger is installed here). This requires the application more materials.
  3. The system can only work with mechanical stimulation (forced).

However, all these complications are fully justified, since as a result only a small part of the heat is thrown out. The specific value depends on the type of heat exchanger. The most efficient are rotary recuperators. Thanks to these devices, the amount of heat loss in the SW can be reduced by four to six times.

Humid indoor air condenses on objects and moisture enters the building materials, resulting in mold and fungus forming on the walls over time. The correct one is presented in the material to solve all problems.

Why is it necessary check valve for ventilation, you will learn by reading.

Related video

In the very first winter after buying my house, I encountered an unpleasant problem: the air in it was damp, musty, and the windows were constantly covered with drops of condensate. The reason was an ill-conceived ventilation system. Today I want to talk about how ventilation should be designed in a private house in accordance with the current SNiP, and about own experience its installation.

Regulations

What building codes regulate the operation of ventilation in a private house?

  1. Mandatory Appendix 4 to SNiP 2.08.01-89 contains norms for air consumption through hoods for rooms of different functionality;
  2. A guide for designers engineering systems private houses is designed to develop and specify the requirements of SNiP 2.04.02-84 and 2.04.01-85.

An interesting point: the last two SNiPs are not related to the air exchange of the building with the street and regulate the construction of water supply networks - external and internal. However, the manual touches upon the problems of sewerage, heating and ventilation.

Let's get to know regulatory requirements to the operation of the ventilation system.

SNiP 2.08.01-89

Image Type of room and air flow rate for it

Living room: 3 cubic meters per hour per square meter area.

Kitchen:
  • With electric stove - not less than 60 m3/h;
  • With a gas two-burner stove - not less than 60 m3 / h;
  • With a gas four-burner stove - not less than 90 m3 / h.

Bathroom: 25 m3/h.
Toilet: 25 m3/h.
Combined bathroom: 50 m3/h.
Laundry: 7 m3/h with an air inflow of at least 4 m3/h.
Dryer, ironing room: 3 m3/h with an inflow of at least 2 m3/h.

The lobbies, halls and corridors are not provided with their own ventilation. Air exchange in them occurs due to the operation of hoods in adjacent rooms.

Manual to SNiP 2.04.02-84 and 2.04.01-85

This document tells in more detail how to make ventilation in a private house. Here are its key requirements:

  • The presence of a ventilation system in an individual house is mandatory. Exhaust ventilation (preferably natural draft) auxiliary premises- , bathroom, combined bathroom, shower, toilet. The inflow of fresh air into living rooms can be provided through supply ducts, supply valves in windows or walls, as well as with periodic ventilation through vents and windows;

In homes with loose fitting wooden frames the inflow is provided by gaps in them. This is how the ventilation system was designed in all apartment buildings Soviet-built: ventilation ducts in the bathroom, bathroom and kitchen were responsible for the hood, and clean air entered the apartment through large-slotted frames.

  • All internal doors the apartment must have a 2-centimeter gap between door leaf and threshold. It is needed for air flow between rooms;

The presence of supply and exhaust ducts in each room makes this requirement optional. In this case, the ventilation systems of individual rooms operate independently of each other.

  • Natural exhaust can be supplemented by forced ventilation(centrifugal or axial fans in exhaust channels);
  • If the extract prevails over the inflow, the difference is compensated by periodic ventilation through the windows;

  • If the inflow prevails over the exhaust, the solution is the same - periodic ventilation. But the vents and windows open from the side of the windward facade (from the leeward side of the house);
  • During the warm season exhaust ventilation not standardized at home: its performance may obviously exceed the calculated values. The maximum capacity limitation is only valid in winter, when losses warm air lead to increased consumption of thermal energy;
  • The influx of cold outdoor air should be organized as close as possible to the heat source.. There, the supply air quickly mixes with warm air masses, without creating drafts and cold streams.

Practice

Now I will talk about how to properly ventilate a private house, paying attention to practical solutions.

When designing ventilation in a house, consider the wind rose. The prevailing wind direction will create a pressure difference between the two facades of the house. It is better to place the inflow on the windward side, the hood - on the leeward side: then the wind will not interfere with the natural circulation of air, but help it.

The hood is always mounted under the ceiling. The higher the better. The exhaust air, together with water vapor, dust, soot and unpleasant odors, is displaced by colder masses of supply air upwards. From there it must be taken.

When installing ventilation ducts, make acoustic decoupling between rooms. First of all, the instruction concerns plastic pipes: due to their small wall thickness, they tend to resonate, amplifying the sound. A couple of turns of the air duct and its rigid fixation to the main walls at the bend eliminates the spread of noise through the ventilation.

Provide an exhaust duct with a fan. Forced ventilation is more convenient than natural ventilation in that it provides a constant performance, which is almost independent of the air temperature in the room and on the street, as well as the direction of the wind. Air flow through the ventilation duct with natural draft in calm weather and in strong wind may vary several times.

Use duct fans and hoods with plain bearings and bronze bushings. Their price is 10-30% higher than that of fans with ball and roller bearings, but the noise level during operation is at least half as much.

Organize the flow of air through the basement or subfloor. The soil below the freezing level and under the foundation of the house has a constant temperature of + 10-14 degrees all year; that is why the basement is always above zero. If the supply air enters through the basement, it is heated without any effort on your part.

With inflow through the basement or underground, ventilation can work in a private house with strip foundation. If the house is on stilts, the underground has the same temperature as the street.

My experience

It was

So, at the time of my move to new house the picture was like this:

  • Ventilation in the house was carried out only by ventilation through the windows. Constantly working ventilation ducts were absent as a class;
  • Humidity skyrocketed. In winter, it is impossible to keep the windows open all the time, and when closed windows all evaporation (moisture from breathing, washing dishes and floors, drying clothes, etc.) remains in the house;
  • The windows were constantly covered with drops of condensation;

  • The walls in the coldest corners were damp despite the heating;

  • At an air temperature of +18-20 °C, it was subjectively cold at home. High humidity increases the thermal conductivity of the air and, following it, heat loss through the skin.

It became

After the ventilation for the house was brought into proper condition, it finally became comfortable in it.

Air condition: dry and fresh.

Smells: Disappear within half an hour to an hour after cooking or using perfume.

Condensation on windows and walls: missing.

Subjective temperature: at +18 the air in the house is perceived as warm.

Solutions

Here are the details of the implementation of the ventilation system in my country house.

Basement:

Image Ventilation channel

tributary: window in the basement of the house.

Hood: vertical shafts in the ceiling between the basement and the first floor. From above, they are covered with ventilation grilles with meshes to protect against insects.

Bedroom:

Image Ventilation channel

tributary: shaft in the floor connecting the bedroom through the ceiling to the basement. Air is supplied to the room with a temperature of about 14 degrees. From above, the supply ventilation grille is blown by the air flow from the air conditioner, which is responsible for heating the bedroom in winter, so you can not be afraid of cold drafts.

Hood: ventilation grill in the ventilation duct, common to the bedroom, bathroom and kitchen. An exhaust pipe with a duct fan is led out of the ventilation duct to the street.

Children's:

Image Ventilation channel

tributary: gap under the door. Air enters through it from the bedroom, into which it is supplied from the basement (let me remind you, heated to +14 degrees).

Hood: a duct fan drives air into a vertical ventilation duct that is shared with a neighbor's house. The bends of the plastic ventilation pipe provide acoustic decoupling from neighboring rooms.

The dimmer on the fan's power cord allows you to adjust its speed, balancing between noise level and performance.

1st floor bathroom:

Image Ventilation channel

tributary: gap under the bathroom door

Hood: ventilation grates in hanging plasterboard ceiling. They open into a common ventilation duct with a duct fan at the outlet.

Attic floor bathroom:

Image Ventilation channel

tributary: gap under the door to the bathroom.

Hood: ventilation grille in the ceiling. A duct fan with a capacity of 105 m 3 per hour is hidden behind the grille.

Bathroom ventilation - common with ventilation of the rest of the volume. There is a tee in front of the duct fan, which takes part of the air from under the ceiling of the bathroom, and part from the space between the suspended attic flow and the roof.

Installation of the ventilation duct is made with a gray sewer pipe with a diameter of 110 mm; outer pipe brought out through the top of the pediment of the house and equipped with an umbrella-deflector to protect against rain.

Conclusion

I hope that my experience will help the reader to avoid the mistakes typical for a beginner in construction. To learn more about how ventilation is installed in a private house with your own hands, the video in this article will help you. Feel free to add and comment on it. Good luck, comrades!

Proper ventilation in a private home is necessary to ensure a constant supply of fresh air at any time of the year. After reading our article, you will find out what types of ventilation systems are, ways to increase the level of air exchange in the premises, as well as heat up cold outdoor air as quickly as possible at minimal cost.

Ventilation systems - what is the difference between mechanical and natural

You should not think that the main purpose of the ventilation system is to provide fresh air. It should also remove the exhaust air masses and provide a speed of air movement in the premises acceptable for a person. The lower the speed, the less the residents feel the effect of cold air and, accordingly, feel more comfortable.

In most cases, homeowners are limited only to natural ventilation, which occurs due to the free movement of air due to drafts or ventilation. In addition, the rate of air replacement for this type of ventilation is about 1 cubic meter / hour, while with mechanical ventilation this indicator reaches 3–5 cubic meters / hour. When airing, a complete air exchange occurs in 40–80 minutes, depending on the volume of the ventilated room. In addition, there are large losses of thermal energy, slopes and window blocks cool down, in winter periods condensation may occur.

In old houses with installed wooden windows Almost nothing was heard about problems with ventilation. The fact is that such windows were distinguished by a very high level of air permeability. Even fairly large private houses were fully ventilated due to numerous cracks and not tightly closed windows.

AT modern houses it is often not possible to do without forced mechanical ventilation. The problem lies in the fact that with a decrease in the speed of air movement, the cross section of the ventilation duct increases. In other words, ventilation ducts in a private house with a forced air replacement system have a smaller cross section compared to similar ducts designed for natural ventilation. By installing forced ventilation, you will secure your home necessary volumes fresh air.

Regardless of the type of ventilation system used, you should first make sure that the air masses are able to move freely throughout all the premises of the house. This is fully facilitated by overflow grilles mounted in the doors in the way of air movement. The flow is considered to be properly organized if the most polluted room (for example, a bathroom or a kitchen with unpleasant odors) is located last in the chain.

Another possible solution is the gap between the doors and the floor. This gap must not be less than 20 mm across the entire width of the door. The installation of special doors with overflow gratings, as well as leaving a gap, is carried out at the stage of construction and installation work, therefore, it is necessary to think about proper and working ventilation literally from the very beginning of building a house.

Window and wall valves - creating additional ventilation

Most modern houses provide for the presence of metal-plastic PVC windows. Similar designs are distinguished by numerous advantages, among which - a beautiful appearance, ease of care, high level of heat and sound insulation, tightness. However, the latter property also has a negative connotation, since natural ventilation in a private house in such conditions is reduced to almost zero.

You should not worry about this, since solutions have been found for a long time. Among the most popular methods of creating natural ventilation in the conditions of using plastic windows is the installation of supply window valves. This valve is a small pipe, which you just need to install into the wall, breaking through it. On both sides, the branch pipe is covered with gratings necessary to regulate the level of penetration of fresh air masses from the street.

Experts advise installing these devices near windows, next to heating radiators. The optimal area for installing an inlet window valve is next to the window sill directly behind the battery. Firstly, in this case, the valve can be easily hidden with a tulle from prying eyes. Presence nearby heating system allows you to instantly warm the outdoor air to avoid hypothermia of the premises.

Technologies for the production of modern supply valves have advanced significantly in their development. T ok, on construction market now you can purchase models that are equipped with temperature, humidity sensors, as well as a variety of filters. Such devices should be installed in dining rooms, hallways, and bedrooms in order to ensure maximum movement of air masses from living rooms (the so-called "clean zones") to amenity premises (bathrooms, sanitary facilities, kitchens).

Supply valves will also be extremely useful in private homes, the walls of which were insulated with a vapor-tight material, for example, extruded polystyrene foam or even ordinary foam. These heaters reduce the amount of fresh air, but through pipes can completely correct the situation.

Forced ventilation system - what does it consist of?

In some cases, ventilation in a private house may not be sufficient through the use of window and wall valves alone. For example, if the volume of the building is very large, then it would be necessary to install valves almost next to every window. Naturally, the aesthetic qualities of the inner and outer walls will be seriously affected by such a large number of additional nozzles. Way out - forced system ventilation.

This system includes two main elements - the ventilation network and ventilation equipment.The latter include:

  1. 1. Fan - required directly for circulation required amount fresh air.
  2. 2. Heater - this device is installed to heat the incoming air, however, it is not among the mandatory ones, and it can be installed based on financial resources and capabilities. There are two types of heaters - electric and water.
  3. 3. Filter - its purpose is to retain debris and large dust particles, which in in large numbers present in the outdoor air.
  4. 4. Air valve.
  5. 5. Silencer.

The ventilation network consists of the following main elements:

  1. 1. Air distribution devices (anemostats, diffusers);
  2. 2. Air ducts;
  3. 3. Air intake grille.

The construction of a completely new building should provide for the presence of ventilation ducts in the internal walls of the kitchens, sanitary facilities, bathrooms. These ventilation ducts are recommended to be laid from brickwork. In the event that channels were not formed at the design stage, special attached mines will have to be erected. So don't forget to think about the ventilation system own house even before its construction.

Exhaust fans are one of the main elements necessary for the uninterrupted and continuous extraction of unpleasant odors and exhaust air from the premises. As with window valves, the market building materials offers a huge selection of fans that can meet the needs and needs of all residents.

The most popular are fans that are mounted on the wall and go directly into the ventilation duct. Another type that has recently appeared on sale is fans. concealed installation. They are usually installed in the subceiling space, but there are several important points. Firstly, you will need to additionally conduct an air duct for this particular fan. And secondly, such devices can only be used with suspended or stretch ceilings.

Fans installed in bathrooms and toilets turn on very often depending on the position of the light switch. For example, when the light is turned on, the device automatically starts to draw out air, stopping only after it is turned off. Some models are equipped with a delay function that can be adjusted by the homeowner. Such devices start working a minute after turning on the light, which will be quite enough to, for example, wash your hands and once again do not use the fan and, as a result, do not overpay for the electrical energy spent by it.

Special ones equipped with humidity sensors have been developed. Such a unit will work regardless of external lighting until the normal level of humidity is restored in the bathroom. If the noise of running fans bothers you, you can always get a more expensive, but quieter model. Another option is to use various rubber-metal bushings to reduce noise levels.

Energy recovery plants - features of such systems

Relatively recently, a new type of supply and exhaust ventilation systems has appeared. These are plants with energy recovery functions. Popularity due to huge savings Money associated with heating cold air. Thus, standard ventilation in the house does not provide for heating the air entering the premises, which leads to large expenditures for additional thermal energy.

If you install a system with energy recovery, then it will be possible to save about 50 percent of heat. Such a high figure can be achieved by heating the cold supply air coming from the street with warm exhaust air.

An obligatory component of such systems is a built-in heater, since the heat of the available air is not enough to heat the entire volume of air masses entering the house. During periods of severe frost without a heater it will be quite difficult. However, in spring or autumn, it is quite possible to do without this heating device, which will save a decent amount of money.

This system provides for supply and exhaust fans. An additional plus is that in summer the system partially takes over the functions of the air conditioner, since it cools the incoming air. If you have air conditioning systems, then the load on them will decrease significantly. The principle of operation is that the cold air after the air conditioner cools the warm outdoor air, passing through the energy recuperator.

It is necessary to think in advance where the energy recovery units will be located. In large buildings, the air exchange process often exceeds 800 cubic meters per hour, and therefore the size of the ventilation system can be impressive. Experts recommend mounting them in attic or on the ground floor. In the first case, it is mandatory to carry out insulation work in the attic, otherwise there is a risk of equipment damage and freezing of the coolant.

To ensure forced ventilation, air ducts are used, the purpose of which is to distribute air masses throughout all rooms. There are several types, the main difference of which lies in their shape:

  • Round air ducts - the most popular based on the ratio of price and quality. Differ smooth surface and, as a result, the least resistance when moving large volumes of air.
  • Rectangular ducts - they are characterized by low equipment cost, but the resistance is slightly higher compared to round models.
  • Flexible ducts - have the highest level of resistance due to the corrugated surface. They are ideal if there are channel bends in a small area.

Thus, ventilation in a private house is a very important issue, which must be addressed at the design stage of the building. But as a result, you will get clean and fresh air without unpleasant odors and pollution.

An air duct for a gas boiler in a private house is often confused with a chimney. Actually these are two different systems. In the case of a chimney, perfect tightness is required - a small leak of combustion products can be fatal. It is better if a special channel is arranged under it, but in certain cases it is possible to install one ventilation shaft. At the same time, the receipt harmful substances into the ventilation shaft from different devices should be carried out not at the same level, but from different points. In this case, one should rely on SNiP 2.04.14-88.

Natural and forced ventilation

A ventilation duct and a chimney are not the same

It is desirable that in a private house a special room be allocated for a gas boiler. This room is called the boiler room. In some houses, the boiler is mounted in the kitchen. In the first and in the second case, it is necessary to take care of ventilation. The circulation of air flows can be carried out in a natural and forced way.

Natural ventilation is allowed if the boiler output is 30 kW. The principle of operation is based on the difference in pressure inside and outside the house. Air can enter through vents or doors. Such ventilation is called unorganized. In the case of natural ventilation with organized stimulation, supply and exhaust ducts with adjustable dampers are mounted. For better traction, the ventilation system can be equipped with a deflector.

Important! In a room with a gas boiler, the ventilation system allows not only to provide the house with fresh air, but also helps to remove excess heat from the pipes and the gas boiler.

With natural ventilation in the boiler room, care must be taken to install supply and exhaust ventilation ducts. To do this, a hole with a section diameter of 100, 150 mm is cut out in the wall, an air duct is inserted into it - part plastic pipe. All cracks are carefully filled with foam. The ventilation pipe is equipped with a mesh or grate that does not allow pests or dust to enter the house.

The check valve will help to secure the room from the return of air. exhaust pipe mounted above the boiler, as combustion products tend to rise up. The supply ventilation duct for a gas boiler in a private house is mounted at the bottom of the boiler room so that the supply air enters directly into the combustion chamber.

Forced ventilation

Forced ventilation is installed when it is not possible to make natural ventilation. This option allows you to mechanically regulate the inflow and outflow of air. Fans are used for forced ventilation. Most often, channel devices are mounted. They are selected depending on the diameter of the duct section.

Exhaust forced ventilation - more safe option in the boiler room

If the boiler room is equipped with a floor gas boiler, mechanical devices are selected with a 30% margin of their maximum load. The performance of the equipment depends on the length of the ventilation ducts and their bends, as well as the diameter of the pipe section. To do this more accurately, you must at least use the formula for calculating air exchange:

L - the maximum productivity of the equipment is expressed in m3 / 1 hour

V is the volume of the ventilated room. It can be found by multiplying the area by the height (V = S x h).

K is a value that indicates the rate of air exchange individually for each room. Knowing all these indicators, you can easily choose a fan with required power. There is also a simpler option for performing calculations - on our website.

The supply air can be heated or cooled as desired. There are options for arranging boiler rooms with an air conditioning system. It is better to mount fans in metal cases in air ducts.

The forced ventilation system can be equipped with automation. For example, when the boiler is turned on, the fans will turn on at the same time. It is important to remember that according to the norms of SNiP, a complete renewal of the air in the boiler room should be carried out 3 times in 1 hour. Based on these requirements, you need to take care of how to make a ventilation duct in a private house for a gas boiler correctly.

Important! A reasonable option would be a combination of natural and forced ventilation. In the event of a power outage, air circulation can be carried out naturally.

Calculation of ventilation in the boiler room

To do this, you need to know the volume of the boiler room, the dependence of the ceiling height on the coefficient of increase in the air exchange rate. The supply air velocity must be at least 1 m/s. Knowing these characteristics, we can calculate required dimensions air duct, select the cross-sectional diameter of the ventilation duct for the removal and inflow of air flow.

Duct parameters

Diameter, mmAir flow in m3/h at speed in m/s
1 m/s2 m/s3 m/s4 m/s5 m/s6 m/s7 m/s8 m/s
100 28.3 56.5 84.8 113 141 170 198 226
125 44.2 88.3 132 177 221 265 309 353
140 55.4 111 166 222 277 332 388 443
160 72.3 145 217 289 362 434 506 579
180 91.6 183 275 366 458 549 641 732
200 113 226 339 452 565 678 791 904
225 143 286 429 572 715 858 1001 1145
250 177 353 530 707 883 1060 1236 1413
280 222 443 665 886 1108 1329 1551 1772
315 280 561 841 1122 1402 1682 1963 2243
355 356 712 1068 1425 1781 2137 2493 2849
400 452 904 1356 1809 2261 2713 3165 3617
450 572 1145 1717 2289 2861 3434 4006 4578
500 707 1413 2120 2826 3533 4239 5946 5652

Why choose metal ducts

It is necessary to determine not only the diameter of the section, but also the material of which the ventilation pipe consists. Air ducts are:

  • metal;
  • metal-plastic;
  • non-metallic.

For ventilation of the boiler room, it is better to use metal ventilation ducts. They meet all fire safety requirements. Such pipes are aluminum, steel or galvanized. The main requirement for such ventilation ducts is corrosion resistance.

Air ducts made of metal can withstand both static and shock loads. Therefore, the risk of destruction of the ventilation structure is minimal. Some pipes are flexible, so you can bend them with your own hands at any angle. High structural strength - allows you to withstand maximum internal pressure.

The only disadvantage of metal pipes is that they do not withstand the effects of condensate and become rusty over time. Only 2 types of metal are unconditionally resistant to moisture - aluminum and stainless steel. When installing such pipes, you need to take care of the fasteners. Pick one that can handle the load. Therefore, the installation process may be delayed. The price of such pipes is also higher than for air ducts made of other materials.

Checking the operation of the ventilation system

You can check the operation of ventilation yourself. To do this, just bring a piece of notebook paper or a napkin to the ventilation duct. If there is traction, then the sheet will be fixed at the grate. If this does not happen, then perhaps there were errors in the calculation or the requirements were not observed during the installation of air exchange systems. Although the cause may be clogging of the air ducts.

If the boiler is in the kitchen with interior door without a special slot at the bottom, and the ventilation ducts for the inflow and outflow of air are mounted in different rooms, then with closed doors there will be no traction. To avoid stagnation of air in practice, plastic door ventilation grilles are used. They may be round or rectangular shape. Depending on the material, the purchase price may be different.

It depends on ventilation. safe work heating device. Therefore, it is worth taking seriously the design and choice of the type of ventilation. Make the right calculations and installation. If knowledge and experience is not enough, then it is better to resort to the services of specialists. It is important that the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room corresponds to the installed equipment. The floor in the boiler room must be made of non-combustible materials. It is best to use a cement screed.

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