At installation of interior doors in an apartment should be carried out according to certain rules that customers should know. After all, about Mistakes in the repair and decoration of a room or apartment can seriously complicate installation and cost a pretty penny!
You will be able to reduce the cost of installation, avoid mistakes in the choice of doors, fittings and sizes of openings, help the craftsmen to do everything with high quality.
Door opening dimensions
- opening width
The door leaf is usually 60/70/80/90 cm wide. The correct width of the opening is the width of the canvas +8 or +9 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is from 1.5 cm to 2.5), or +10 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is 2.5 cm and above ).
- opening height
For all cases, the correct height of the opening is the height of the door leaf + 6cm. from the finished floor, that is, 206 cm. The doors to the bathroom can be 190 cm high, so the correct opening height is 196 cm.
Here are some examples of correct openings.:
- Canvas 80x200(cm) - opening 89x206(cm)
- 70x200 - opening 79x206
- 60x200 - opening 69x206
- 60x190 - opening 69x196
The dimensions of the doorways must be determined in advance and it is very important to independently constantly monitor your team during the repair process.
Door width for different rooms
If you have the opportunity to plan the width of doors and openings in advance and have questions about what door width to choose, then follow these recommendations:
- doors in rooms are usually made 80 cm wide in order to be able to bring in / take out furniture. Width 90cm. it happens very rarely, since such canvases are heavy and can eventually sag on the hinges.
- the doors in the bathroom are usually made 60-70cm so that a washing machine 60cm thick can freely pass through the opening. Keep in mind that 60cm. the door assembly has a clear opening of approximately 58cm. because of the porches in the door frame.
- the door leaf to the kitchen is usually made 70-80cm. It should also be taken into account that the handles on both sides can interfere with the passage to the kitchen.
- in the dressing room they usually make a width of 60-70cm.
When do you need to install extensions?
When installing interior doors, if the wall thickness is greater than the thickness of the door frame, it is recommended to purchase. You can, of course, stick wallpaper on the ends of the walls, but it will look out of date, and there will be nothing to nail trim on the other side of the wall.
If installed, it will be a good solution that will beautifully decorate the slopes. The color of the extensions can be chosen, for example, under the MDF panel.
The width of standard extensions according to the warehouse program is usually 10/12/15/20 cm. If your walls are very thick (more than 20 cm), then the extensions must be spliced in width or non-standard extensions must be ordered at the factory, which will cost much more.
On which side of the door should the extensions be installed?
It depends entirely on how you planned the opening. Usually, if your door opens into a room, then the box is flush with the room wall, and the extension will be in the corridor, respectively.
If you do the opposite, the door will not open fully (it will rest against the extension). Sometimes they put up with this so that the doors look the same - ALL extensions to the corridor or all extensions to the rooms. Therefore, this is already a matter of convenience and design, taking into account the future arrangement of furniture in the apartment.
Scheme of opening interior doors
Usually, if in one corridor some of the doors will open into the corridor, and some into the rooms, the closed doors will look different due to the features of the door frame. If the doors are next to each other, and at the same time open one inward and the other outward, then the height of the upper trim will not match.
This is what the door looks like from the common corridor, which opens into the corridor, that is, towards us: 
This is how the door that opens into the room looks like, that is, inside: 
It is necessary to ensure that the canvas does not cover the switch when torn off. It is highly desirable that the doors do not intersect with their trajectories. The bathroom must be provided with a 180-degree opening for quick ventilation after taking water procedures.
Make sure that a door opened 90 degrees does not block the opening of an adjacent door.
In order not to waste time coordinating the opening of doors with the masters during installation, make a diagram on a piece of paper in advance.
How high from the floor should the door be?
Standard height - 1 cm from the finished floor. As for the doors of the bathrooms, it is not recommended to do less than 1 cm so as not to disturb the air flow. If you have plastic windows, do not forget to make supply valves for air from the street so as not to increase the humidity in the apartment too much when the windows are closed.
Installation of interior doors during the repair of an apartment and the sequence of stages of work.
In order to protect the wooden parts of the doors from warping due to high humidity during repairs, it is necessary to do the installation after ALL finishing work, including in neighboring rooms.
Early installed doors can be accidentally damaged by tools during the repair process. Tile or wallpaper glue, especially plaster, dry for quite a long time, releasing moisture into the room. Humidity levels above 70% for several days increase the risk that doors will pick up moisture from the air, swell, and stop closing properly.
However, if you like to wash your bathtub or shower often, humidity is not a threat, as the bathroom is quickly ventilated.
Installation of interior doors should be done if you already have a finished floor!
Without doors, it is much easier to lay floor coverings, and then it is easier to install them, with a clear adjoining of the trim to the floor.
If you first install the box directly on the screed (main floor), then it is impossible to bring the flooring under the box, since it is already on the floor. In addition, it is difficult for the master to correctly calculate the lower clearance of the door from the subfloor, taking into account the future coating, especially if the floor has not been leveled.
If you did everything right and did the installation after laying the finished floor, it will not be difficult to replace the floor in the future - you just need to pull out the laminate or parquet from under the door pillars and slip a new coating. In this case, the racks will not fall, but will remain hanging.
What if the doorway is much higher (wider) than the box?
A common mistake of repair crews is openings that are too high, because the maximum height should not be higher than 208~209 cm, and 206 cm is better. from the floor covering.
Sometimes in new buildings standard opening can be 217-220cm high. This is due to the fact that many customers make underfloor heating and the height after their installation becomes standard. If no one paid attention to this during the repair, and a situation arose when the upper casing did not close the opening.
Solution: if your opening is higher than necessary, and there is no possibility to reduce the opening, glue the wallpaper lower before installing the doors, or order high capitals instead of the upper casing, but they are usually mounted from the side of the corridor. A more thorough way is to lower the height of the opening with drywall and wooden blocks and then glue the wallpaper.
Another option: if the platbands are flat, cut off at the joints at 90 degrees, and the upper platband is cut out of the wider extensions. Some customers get out of the situation this way. The disadvantage is that sometimes the additional strips are thicker than the casing, and that if you do this for all the doors in the apartment, it will look a little wild)).
If the opening is at least 2-3 cm wider than necessary from the sides, the foam joint will not have sufficient strength, and this is important, since the mounting foam helps maintain even gaps and ensures the overall resistance of the door to loads.
Solution: narrow the doorway with a wooden beam with a section of 3x5, 5x5 or at the repair stage using foam blocks and tile adhesive.
How to straighten a crooked doorway?
First you need to check the walls to the right and left of the opening for humps / depressions by attaching a long rule, an extension or a flat board to the wall. Especially often humps are found closer to the floor. Even one small hump will interfere with the tight fit of the casing to the wall.
To solve this problem, there is only one option: to plaster and level the walls. If you do not want or cannot level the walls in the entire apartment or wall, then do it only around the openings (about 50 cm wide) and paste the wallpaper.
Then you need to check the verticality of the walls using a laser or bubble level. The ends of the openings must be parallel, the walls must be even and strictly vertical. If the opening is curved, the walls are sloping, there are humps or depressions, act according to circumstances.
If you understand that the opening is a curve, and moves away from the vertical by more than 1 cm - you can level the walls with plaster according to the lighthouses, putting them on a vertical level and re-paste the wallpaper. As you already understood, this is the best and most difficult solution!
How to install a door in a curved opening?
But what if there is no way to level the wall? Let's say the wall in which the door is supposed to be installed is littered from the vertical by more than 1 cm per two meters of the height of the opening. Then you have three options:
- Install the door frame along the plane of the wall, the architraves will fit snugly against the wall, but the door will also be tilted and, probably, will close on its own, slam, etc.
- Install the box vertically in level, while the platbands fit in the upper part and move away from the wall by the amount of wall deviation from the vertical in the lower part (or vice versa), worsening the aesthetics.
- Buy a door with telescopic architraves and install it straight, deepening a little into the wall and pulling out, where necessary, the architraves from the grooves. This is a good solution to the problem, unless you need to open the door 180 degrees, as opening the door leaf more than 100 degrees will pull out the hinges.
The choice is yours, in all cases there are minuses and there are pluses, because this is a compromise.
What if the door is close to the wall?
In such an opening, one wall is perpendicular to the other wall, and it is necessary to reduce the width of the architraves, and attach them close to the wall on both sides. But reducing the platbands in width, we still spoil the appearance of the door, see photo: 
However, there are several other options for solving this problem:
- If the repair has already been made and wallpaper is glued to the walls, you can fasten a wooden bar with a section of 3x6, 3x4 or 4x4 (no more) to such a wall. It becomes possible to install a whole platband close to the wall.
- Increase the doorway at least 5 cm from the wall and cut off the same distance from the opposite wall of the opening at the repair stage. The platband will be located at a small distance from the wall, which looks much more beautiful.
- Increase the doorway at the repair stage by 5 cm on both sides and order doors 10 cm less wide, for example 70 cm. instead of 80cm..
Setting the interior threshold
The door leaf is located in the opening closer to that part of the wall where the door will open, so the threshold covering the floor joint with the door closed should be located under the door leaf and then it will not be visible when the door is closed, see photo:
A common mistake of repair teams is the wrong location of the sills! To avoid such a mistake, draw a scheme for opening all doors in advance and give it to the foreman before laying the finishing floors.
Installation of interior doors in the bathroom
For living rooms and kitchens, it is recommended to order doors 2 meters high. For bathrooms in new homes, a canvas 1 m high is often required. 90cm due to the presence of waterproofing and special high thresholds. If you missed this moment and did not order doors with a height of 190 cm, then you need to expand the opening in height or, alternatively, you can shorten the door.
If you increase the opening in height, then the upper mark of the doors to the bathroom and interior doors will be at different levels. If the door is cut from below, then the panel pattern is lowered. Therefore, sometimes it is better to order smooth doors for bathrooms.
A common mistake is the threshold to the bathroom from a wooden door frame, as the aesthetics and ventilation of a wet room are violated, and in the future, mold may appear.
Preparation of openings for interior doors
Mounting foam will not be able to stick if there is a lot of dust on the ends of the doorway. It is necessary to remove dust or prime the ends of the walls of the opening if they are covered with gypsum putty or if the walls are made of gypsum / aerated concrete blocks.
If there are open round cavities and voids at the end of the opening, they can be repaired with plaster, leaving marks with a pencil so that the master does not drive fasteners into them. Holes for door frame fasteners are drilled between these cavities into lintels.
If the walls of the opening are made of drywall, then in a metal profile at the vertical ends of the opening necessarily you need to lay a dry wooden block. It is needed for reliable fastening of doors to self-tapping screws through the hinges and the counterpart, and it also stiffens the walls in the area of the opening. Doors installed in openings without reinforcement are doomed to short-term operation and quickly sag.
If a bar is laid inside the metal profile and the ends are not sewn up with anything, then this is not correct. Foam does not adhere well to galvanized metal. Over time, flaking is possible. To avoid this, GKL or GVL strips or plywood are screwed to the ends. Foam adhesion to these materials is excellent.
It is not allowed to leave voids between the sheets of drywall in the upper part of the opening. The fact is that the upper box is often strongly bent or bent when wedging, and to straighten it, for example, with the help of foam, a filled end of the wall is required.
Preparation of opening for sliding doors
For those wishing to install sliding compartment doors, the opening height for a standard door should be approximately 202 cm. and the width of the opening should be equal to the width of the door leaf or a couple of centimeters wider. In the process of finishing the opening with extensions and platbands under the portal, its dimensions should become smaller than the door leaf.
At a height of 207 cm. up to 212cm. there should be no voids from the floor in the opening, since a wooden bar with a section of 5x5 cm and a length of about 190 cm will be horizontally fixed here, to which an aluminum top rail with rollers will be attached.
Finishing the doorway (portal) in the apartment
If you do not want to install an interior door, you can install a portal instead. This solution increases the space in a small apartment, so this is a win-win option for visually combining adjacent rooms: a hall and a living room, a corridor and a dining room, a living room and a small kitchen. A doorway without the usual door surprisingly transforms the room: 
Preparing the floor before installing doors
A common mistake of repair teams when laying floor coverings is when the gap between the floor covering and the wall in the area of the platbands exceeds the thickness of the platband. And you just need to remember to make it no more than 3 mm. in the area of platbands.
A recess (strobe) can be made in the wall near the floor to compensate for possible expansions of the floor covering.
Storing doors after purchase
To prevent deformation under the influence of gravity, the canvas, boxed timber and trim must be stored on a flat surface before installation. Doors can be placed on their side against the wall.
Doors, architraves and boxes can change their dimensions after changes in humidity. Due to the set of humidity after the cold in the warmth, before installation, it is necessary to store the door and the moldings indoors for several days. Do not remove the packaging from the doors in advance until the temperatures have completely equalized.
Which loops to choose?
- If the canvas weighs up to 20 kg., Then it is optimal to buy 2 loops of 10 cm high.
- If the canvas weighs from 20 to 30 kg., Then you need to buy 2 loops of 12-12.5 cm. height
- If the canvas weighs more than 30 kg, then you need to buy 3 loops of 10 cm. height
The hinges are hung at a distance of 20 cm from the top and bottom of the door leaf. The thickness of the metal and the absence of backlash are very important. If the thickness of the hinge metal is 3 mm, then these are good hinges, a thickness of 2-2.5 mm is much more common. It is very good if the hinges are made of brass, steel. The most common door hinges come in several types:
- universal hinges- these are traditional, mortise loops familiar to all of us. If the choice of hinges is not a fundamental point, buy universal hinges. They can open both to the right and to the left. In addition, universal hinges have a longer service life.
- - not mortise, overhead loops. Easy and simple to install. They got their name for a special unusual design - both of its elements in the open state resemble butterfly wings. In the process of closing the door leaf, one part of the hinge easily enters the other, forming a single whole. Usually such hinges are placed on lightweight doors.
- - mortise hinges proven by time, the door with such hinges is simply removed if it opens 180 degrees. There are right and left depending on the opening of the door
How to choose locks and latches?
Locks and latches are best chosen based on the quietest operation of the mechanisms when opening and closing and their reliability. Magnetic locks are quiet, but not all, they need to be bought more expensive and preferably Italian, there are very high quality options. Do not save on them, so as not to suffer later.
Cheap latches with plastic tabs are not always of high quality, here you must first ask around with knowledgeable people (not sellers), and not buy too suspicious options. It will work quietly for six months, and then it will suddenly start to rattle. Sometimes such cheap magnetic locks and latches do not work immediately after installation. Door installers are well aware of these models.
You can buy classic latches / locks. It is best to choose them with plastic reeds, as they are the quietest in operation and do not clang like metal ones.
Sometimes it happens that the new latch works hard. In this case, put a couple of drops of silicone grease on the lock tongue.
Door handle height from floor
For Europe - 95 cm. Many symmetrical doors are now being produced, in which the handle according to the design of the door should be located strictly in the middle of the leaf. Therefore, the standard handle height for Russia is 1 meter.
Almost all models of door handles come with too long self-tapping screws, which, when screwed into the door, can jam the lock or lead to its unstable operation. Door installers almost always screw on the handles with their self-tapping screws.
How to choose the right master for installing an interior door and check the quality of his work?
How to make the right choice so as not to be left with hopelessly damaged doors? Will the work be done with high quality if the door installer is in doubt? Let's first find out how best to check the work of the wizard and analyze everything point by point.
How to check the work of the door installation wizard?
- Look at the quality of tie-in locks, joints of the box and trim, tie-in loops. The cracks must be absent.
- The tongue of the lock must fit into the striker without play.
- The canvas should evenly fit along the entire length to the porch or rubber seal. When closing the door, the elastic should not be jammed with the canvas
- The gaps between the door and the box must be even along the entire length.
- The box is fixed in the opening not only with building foam, but also with fasteners
- The canvas should not close or open on its own.
- Hardware must rotate freely.
- The price may rise only because of the increased volume of work that cannot be foreseen in advance.
How to choose a door installer? Basic ways.
1. The master must narrowly specialize in installing doors! It is necessary to watch or see the work live (with friends in the apartment). The craftsman or team must have at least 1 year experience and must be professional: a miter saw, a sawing table or a hand-held circular saw, milling cutters, a screwdriver, a drill, a perforator, a hairpin gun with a compressor, templates for fittings, etc. Read
Any construction is carried out according to the project. This also applies to where the interior door should open. Factors that influence this can be identified.
The design is based on building codes and regulations (SNiP), fire safety rules. The main conditions for installing doors are safety in the event of an emergency and unhindered evacuation in the event of an emergency.
Based on this, in crowded places, in working premises (offices, organizations of various profiles), it is impossible to change the direction of opening the canvases without coordination with the fire authorities. The principle of opening is only from the room into the corridor towards the main exit.
The front door opens outward from the apartment, and must be installed strictly according to the project. If you decide to change the side of the opening, then this should not prevent (block) the neighbors from leaving the apartment.
It happens that an incorrectly deployed door touches the neighbor's door, catches it, which is unacceptable. Hence the conclusion - the doors should allow you to freely exit and enter the apartment for security reasons, plus be comfortable when using.
Now let's talk where the interior doors in the apartment should open. Here the canvases are installed according to the drawings, but the owner himself can change the opening. This is dictated by ease of use, the location of the openings in the wall, the size of the room, the location of the windows.
And also, the number of rooms facing one corridor, its area, and other points. Therefore, for each situation, you can define rules that take into account where the interior door should open.
Options for opening interior doors
single leaf model When choosing a design, they proceed from its best location, ease of use. There are several types of opening models:
Swing single-leaf - the most commonly used design, as they are tightly closed around the perimeter, which increases the sound insulation, thermal insulation of the room.
They are easy to install, the design is simple and clear, the opening side can be any, depending on external factors.
double door Swing double-leaf - these designs are more suitable for large rooms. These are mainly crowded places (conference rooms, cinemas and other establishments). Often in country houses or apartments with an improved layout with a large area, they look quite aesthetically pleasing.
The accordion sliding door is mounted in rooms with a small area, a narrow corridor, so the swing option, when opened into the room, will not allow any furniture to be placed on its way.
If the hallway or corridor is narrow, then when turning in their direction, the swing model will block the free movement of other family members. The accordion helps out, which folds without taking up extra space.
Sliding models are similar in functionality to accordion doors, as they save space. They can zone an area, cover large enough openings where another type is unacceptable.
But in terms of soundproofing characteristics and heat retention, the two above types are inferior to swing options. So choose according to your parameters of the premises, the requirements for noise and heat insulation, where the interior door should open.
Location of interior doors
We all live in apartments, dormitories, other dwellings, where door blocks are installed everywhere. Today, apartments are bought in the "gray version" - without decoration, door panels, even without partitions.
To bring them into the "white version", you will have to install interior doors. I will outline the general principles that can be followed in determining the direction of the turn.
Interior doors from small rooms should open into a large room.
The bathroom door opens outward, as does the toilet door for security reasons. For example, if after taking a bath, an elderly person becomes ill, he will fall at the exit, blocking the opening. If the opening is outward, then he will be helped, and if inward, then it is difficult to get into the bathroom.
In addition to safety, there is also constraint. How do you get to the toilet, when opening the canvas inward, if the door hits the toilet? There are also small toilets. Yes, and the bathrooms in the houses of the old buildings are so small that there is nowhere to turn around.
When installing door panels, be guided so that they do not partially block the space of the room, place them with opening to the wall.
The interior door in the open state should not close the switch, sockets, so as not to bypass it - this is the convenience of installation. So the concept of where interior doors should open is a matter of comfort.
The door from the kitchen opens into the corridor, and with a normal area of the dining room, you can go inside, to the nearby wall, so proceed from the situation.
Often in the kitchen, the canvas is removed and an arch is arranged, but this is not for everyone. Not everyone likes that when cooking, all couples freely go to the rooms. It is better to close the door, cook food, air it out, and then open it.
If there are one or more windows in the room, then when opening the interior door, you should contemplate not a blank wall, but the windows and space of the room.
Opening doors in the apartment
1 - correct; 2 - wrong; 3 - door - accordion. In bedrooms, if they are adjacent to the sanitary cabin, it is better to open the canvas inward to the adjacent wall, and not outward, so that the door does not block the passage when open.
The living room is the largest room in terms of area, so the door opens inward, and if the area is not so hot, then install a sliding model. I have a narrow and long corridor and the door from the hallway was moved into it.
The corridor, divided by the opening, began to visually appear wider and lighter. I made the accordion door myself according to my drawings according to the width of the sawn opening, I also installed it myself. It is very convenient, does not interfere, does not take up extra space and there is no question of where the interior door should open.
The only thing is that when moving the doorway, he coordinated this nuance and legalized it. MBTI made measurements, and on the basis of them they issued a new technical passport. The transfer of the opening is considered a redevelopment.
In a narrow passage, make sure that the canvases do not touch each other, you do not “get entangled” in them. On that there are doors on opening left and right (hanging).
Often in the corridors, hallways, built-in wardrobes are arranged. As a rule, hinged narrow doors are installed here, which open outward and do not create inconvenience. But if the hallway is small, then you can arrange sliding doors.
The location of the canvases should be such that when the door is open, you move freely around the apartment. If somewhere the door opens and hits the wall, install the limiters.
If you feel uncomfortable using any of the doors, reinstall it. I did this with the door frames at the entrance to the loggia. As a rule, they all open into the room, creating a "dead zone" around them for the installation of furniture. Yes, and tulle clung to the canvas all the time.
He turned all the boxes, and the canvases began to open on the loggia, it’s good that their width is 1.5 meters. It has become much more convenient, and the entire area near the loggia is free, you can place some of the furniture. Friends followed my example and were also satisfied.
If you are just planning a renovation, then consider in advance the most rational option where the interior door should open. If it is already installed and makes it uncomfortable to use, then reinstall it.
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Success in self-installation of interior doors can be achieved if you approach this task correctly. On the one hand, such work is not difficult to carry out, but on the other hand, there are a number of nuances that must be taken into account during the installation process. Before installing an interior door, it is important to think over the algorithm of actions. At the same time, if you do the work without being prepared, then this may affect the final result. Of great importance is theoretical training in the question of how to install such door structures. Even in the absence of experience, you can install interior doors correctly and reliably.
Preparatory work
Before you study the theory of installing interior doors and proceed with the installation of the structure, it is necessary to consider the issue of preparatory work. In no case should this stage be ignored, otherwise a simple and quick installation of doors can turn into a real nightmare. First of all, you need to pay attention to two points.
First you need to make sure that the door block is in full compliance with the opening. The optimal situation would be if, after the installation of the structure, a gap of 2-3 centimeters remains on all its sides. This will make it possible to easily set the door frame in the same plane with the opening.
This is easy to achieve. If the opening is too narrow relative to the door block, then it can be expanded with a hammer drill or impact drill. In the case when the doorway is too wide, it is possible to reduce its dimensions using a wooden beam. In general, a gap of up to five centimeters is considered normal.
For the perfect installation of the door block, you can use one simple device. It is required to attach three even wooden slats across the box. One from below, the second from above, the third - in the middle of the structure. These rails will allow you to set the door block in the same plane with the opening.
To avoid damage to the surface of the door frame, you can fix the slats by placing wooden linings under them. They should be screwed to the end of the box. In addition, the length of the rails must be chosen in such a way that after installing the door frame in the opening, the rails rest against the walls. By the way, there are a few more nuances that will help you complete the installation without unnecessary difficulties.
First of all, the rails need to be fixed on the side of the door block into which the door will open. In addition, they must be fixed after the door frame is installed in the opening and gaps of the required size are formed between the opening and the opening.
To fix the box, you can use double-folded thick cardboard. It is very important at the stage of preparatory work to perform the above two steps. Without the implementation of these procedures, it is not recommended to proceed with the installation of the door block, because in this case the risk of skew of the entire structure increases significantly. After the implementation of these manipulations, you can proceed directly to the independent installation of interior doors.
Independent installation of interior doors
After completing the preparatory work and preparing all the necessary tools, you can begin to install interior doors. Of the tools you will need a hammer, a short rack level and a crowbar. In addition, it is necessary to purchase a cylinder with low-pressure polyurethane foam during polymerization. An example is Macroflex 65 foam. Wood wedges should also be prepared. To date, there is a proven technology on how to install interior doors correctly. You can see the installation process in the video.
The first step is to put the door block in the opening. During this process, it is important to pay special attention to the side on which the structure is being installed. When installing, it is advisable to be where the door will open. Now you should set the structure in the center of the opening. By moving the door block to the right or left, it is necessary to ensure the same gaps between the structure and the walls on both sides.
At the next stage, you will need to make sure that the vertical position of the door frame racks is correct. To do this, you can use the rack level. It must be applied from below the upper transverse jumper. If the level is not respected, you will need to use a crowbar, lifting the desired rack with it and placing wooden wedges under it.
After that, you should fix the door block to the partitions. To do this, it is necessary to drill holes with a diameter of 6 mm in the protruding part of the wooden lintels. Then dowels are hammered into these holes. In the process of fixing the door block, it is necessary from time to time to check the position of the structure relative to the side walls.
After that, the door frame and opening should be wetted with water. This procedure is carried out in order to increase the polymerization of the mounting foam and its adhesion to the walls of the opening. Then you need to once again make sure that the correct position of the door frame is maintained. To do this, use the rack level. In addition, it is necessary to check the presence of gaskets made of cardboard between the door leaf and the boat. If some fell out in the process of performing work, then they must be returned to their place.
At the next stage, it is necessary to fill the gaps between the door block and partitions using mounting foam. After that, you need to let the foam grab and dry. This will take several hours. As a rule, the polyurethane foam completely hardens in 6-10 hours. By the way, it will be said that polyurethane foam is a poisonous material. To avoid the unpleasant consequences of skin contact with it, you can use protective gloves. In addition, it is necessary to protect the surface of the products with masking tape, pasting the door block around the perimeter with it.
After that, you must remove all aids. Now they are no longer needed. So, with the help of a screwdriver, dowels and self-tapping screws are dismantled, which secure the jumpers in the door frame. Then you need to remove the rails themselves and open the door. Cardboard pads should fall to the floor on their own after the door is opened.
Finishing doorways
The question of how to properly install door blocks is not limited to the installation of the structure itself. After the interior doors are mounted, it is necessary to carry out work on finishing the doorway. The method of carrying out this procedure depends on the width of the doorway, as well as the type of mounted door unit. In the case of a thin wall, as, for example, at the entrance to the bathroom, it is possible to finish using only architraves. This option is the simplest and most labor-intensive. The purchased set of platbands is fixed on both sides of the door structure, closing the gaps between the frame and partitions filled with foam.
If we are talking about wide doorways, then their finishing is carried out using the same platbands or additional trims. They may differ from the color of the door leaf, especially since recently contrasting solutions have become popular. The sentinel strip can be cut to the required width, and it should be fixed with construction adhesive.
In addition, it is worth emphasizing that one of the ways to finish the doorway is to plaster the slopes. This method is especially appropriate when installing wooden door blocks. The fact is that the cement-sand plaster mortar favorably emphasizes door structures made of natural wood. At the same time, this type of finish is not recommended for fiberboard door frames. This material is not compatible with the high humidity of materials used in plastering.
After installing the door block, installing the platbands with your own hands is not particularly difficult. It is necessary to cut the edge of each architraves at an angle of 45 degrees and fix them on the door frame. For these purposes, you can use glue, finishing nails or self-tapping screws. The caps of the studs are subsequently overwritten, and the self-tapping screws are hidden with the help of decorative plastic plugs.
As practice shows, installing interior doors is a fairly simple procedure. But, only subject to the installation technology and the sequence of work. A reasonable approach to business will allow you to perform all the manipulations without much effort and problems.
Caring for interior doors
It is important to remember that technically competent and accurate installation of interior doors can easily be leveled by the lack of care for the structure and improper operation. Interroom doors are recommended to be used indoors at a temperature from +15 to +35 С°. In this case, the humidity of the air should not exceed 70%. It is important that the door unit is not affected by sudden temperature fluctuations and changes in humidity in the apartment.
By the way, it will be emphasized that special attention should be paid to the operation of interior doors in rooms equipped with sealed windows. If the rooms are not ventilated, excessive humidity may occur in them, which is likely to cause damage to the structural elements of the door structure. So, the door can swell, the finishing material can peel off.
In addition, it is strictly forbidden to install MDF doors in those rooms in which there is a constantly elevated air temperature and humidity. These facilities include swimming pools, saunas and baths. At the same time, it is not recommended to install such structures in rooms without heating, with cement or earthen floors. At the same time, it is allowed to operate interior doors with short-term exposure to moisture. In this case, ventilation of the premises is a prerequisite. An example of such an object is a bathroom.
During the use of interior doors, the opening and closing of the leaf should be carried out exclusively in ways that do not entail damage to the structure and platbands. In addition, even if the door is equipped with a wear-resistant finishing coating, rough mechanical impact on the structure should be avoided. Otherwise, chips, cracks, burrs and scuffs are likely to appear. Such defects will significantly worsen the aesthetic appearance of the door unit.
The interior door, like the furniture in the room or other interior items, needs careful treatment and attention. To maintain the aesthetic appearance of the structure, it is enough to periodically apply special care products. It is necessary to clean the door unit from dirt and dust with a soft cloth or a damp cloth. Contact of the structure with various solvents, acidic and alkaline compounds should be avoided. If you follow these simple rules, then interior doors will delight their owners with aesthetics and a long service life.
In conclusion, it is worth emphasizing that the whole process called “we put interior doors on our own”, carried out in compliance with the technology and recommendations of professionals, will take about three hours. True, this is not counting the time spent on the preparatory work before you start installing the structure with your own hands.
Even the best doors can begin to creak or sag over time: no one can cancel the force of gravity and friction. And if you have heavy steel ones, then even metal will get tired of holding them. After the summer, plastic ones also “sag” - they almost always remain open in the heat, which leads to such results. There is no need to endure these "outrages", as well as spend money on their elimination. Adjusting the front doors is a delicate matter, but in most cases you can do it on your own. Once you adjust the loops and the porch with your own hands, you can then easily repeat.
Adjustment of a metal entrance door
- creak;
- draft - blowing from under the canvas (slits around the perimeter or top / bottom);
- hard to close.
The solution to all these problems is called "adjusting the front door", but this includes very different measures - from banal lubrication and replacement of the seal, to the actual adjustments and mechanical influences.
Sometimes, to fix the problem, you need to go through all the methods, and sometimes the problem that has arisen can only be fixed radically - by replacement. Most often, this situation occurs with cheap Chinese products. Adjustment of entrance doors made in China is almost impossible. Of course, you can try to do something with your own hands: firms and craftsmen do not undertake them.
Eliminate the creak
Doors can creak for two reasons: the hinge grease is clogged or the door leaf touches the frame. Although both are called “creaking”, the nature of the sound is different. It is easier to cope with the clogging of the loops, therefore they usually start with this procedure.
Hinge lubrication
First, remove the old grease, at the same time removing the dirt adhering to it. The procedure is standard: wipe with a soft cloth wherever traces are visible. If this procedure has not been done for several years, and the loops are of the standard classical type, and even detachable, the canvas can be removed. Better to clean when removed.
If the hinges are rusty and won't come off as they should, don't try to knock them down with a hammer or sledgehammer. Do more harm than help. Better buy a rust remover. It is usually sold in the form of sprays. Apply to a rusted hinge and wait for the set time. Then remove the fabric from the hinges and clean. But this time it is necessary to remove all the rust. To bare metal, then coat with a rust converter and only then with grease.
After the old grease is removed, take the "fresh" one and apply it to the hinges. If the canvas is removed, there will be no problems - lubricate the pin and ring. If any other rubbing mechanisms are visible on the frame, lubricate them as well.
In traditional type hinges, squeaking may occur due to the fact that the washer on the stem has worn off. You inspect it after you have removed the door leaf. If it shows signs of wear, replace it. Install a new hard metal washer. Instead, you can put an engraver. He will also compensate for the load.
If the hinges are one-piece, find a can of liquid lubricant (WD40 is the most common) or machine oil that can be applied with a large syringe. Handle all moving parts carefully.
There is another method, but it is destructive. A hole is drilled in the upper part of the hinge, which is then filled with grease. The whole trick is not to damage the mechanism that is inside.
If the hinges are hidden, find all the turning parts and lubricate them. Often in such models there are holes into which oil is applied.
After applying the lubricant, swing the doors several times from side to side, distributing the lubricant. If this was the reason, the creak goes away. The final touch is to wipe off excess oil.
How to lubricate front door hinges
It is necessary to choose a lubricant, first of all, according to the temperatures at which the loop is operated. If the hinges go outside, a composition is needed that does not thicken at low temperatures. There is not much choice here:
- Litol. Reliably works at temperatures from -40°C to +120°C.
- Solidol. The temperature range is slightly lower, but also sufficient: from -35°C to +65°C.
For entrance doors facing the entrance and operated at positive temperatures, a few more items can be added to this list:
Eliminate friction on the box
If, after processing the hinges, the creak remains, most likely it is caused by the friction of the door leaf on the box. Inspect the door frame for wear. If you find any signs of abrasion, see which of the loops is closer. It will need to be regulated, if possible.
The difficulty lies in the fact that there are a lot of types and models of loops and it is impossible to say unambiguously what needs to be done. All that is possible is to list the main points that can be. Based on these, you may be able to determine how to "heal" your door.
Two types of hinges for an entrance metal door with adjustment
Standard hinges are not adjustable. In this case, the adjustment of the entrance doors consists in replacing the washer. They are selected with greater or lesser thickness, adjusting the position of the door leaf. Some hinges with a ball at the top have an adjustment screw. By unscrewing it, we raise the door a little, twisting it - we lower it. You can try to correct the situation with it.
If standard hinges on a steel door are welded, we can assume that this has exhausted the possibilities. If they are seated on screws, the fixing screws are loosened, moving the sash in the desired direction as far as possible. Then the screws are tightened. Check if the problem is gone. If not, try with another loop. Sometimes it is required to loosen all the loops, and pull the canvas in this position. In general, decide on the place where to press, and where to press.
There are models of hinges in which the adjustment holes are hidden under a protective cap. But it’s impossible to remove it just like that: it is fixed with a bolt, which is unscrewed from the inside of the room. An example of adjusting such a loop in the video.
If the hinges on the front door are screwed, you can eliminate the friction of the door leaf on the frame with their help. First, loosen the screws near where the wear is. Try to move the door leaf a little. To begin with, you can knock with your palm or fist, moving it in the right direction. Try opening/closing a couple of times. Did it help? Screw the clamping screws back. And try opening/closing again.
If it doesn’t help, you can use some kind of leverage, hit with a rubber mallet or hammer through the board. But don't overdo it. Especially gently should be handled with Chinese products: they are very flimsy.
If these manipulations also did not give anything, you will have to loosen the screws on all the hinges and try to move the canvas over the entire area. Take hold of the edge of the canvas with your hands and sway it. In this case, the loops should fall into place. Try to open close. If there is no squeak, tighten the bolts. That's all, adjusting the hinges of the front door cannot give more. The next thing to try is to change the geometry of the door frame. More on this in the next paragraph.
The photo above (right picture) shows a hinge with the ability to adjust. By loosening the screws, you can turn the adjusting screw. It does not help - we are trying to move the canvas, as described above.
Eliminate a loose porch (blowing from under the door)
Sometimes there is a noticeable breeze from under the front door. If you examine the perimeter, you will most likely find that in some place the fit of the door leaf to the door frame is loose. There may be a decent size gap. You can check your suspicions with a piece of paper. Open the doors, insert a piece of paper between the canvas and the jamb and close the doors. If the porch is normal, the paper is either pulled with a lot of effort, or it is pinched so that it cannot be removed. Just break. If the sheet is removed freely, then the fit is insufficient.
The simplest explanation is that the seal has lost its elasticity. If the doors are several years old, it is possible. And the first step is to change the seal. Did it help or only partially solve the problem? We move on.
Replacing the seal is the first step if it comes through from under the front door
If the canvas is displaced relative to the door in a horizontal plane, we try to eliminate the draft from under the front door first by shifting the door leaf. This is written above: loosen the fastening screws on the hinges, then try to move the canvas in the right direction. Check the result - the gap has disappeared - tighten all the screws to their original position.
Sometimes gaps under the front door occur due to the distortion of the door frame. This is checked with a level. Most likely, it skewed in the place where the sheet of paper is freely removed. The second option, on the contrary, the box is stuck out in the place where the sheet is pressed, due to the fact that the "normal" part cannot be pressed. All this is determined with the help of an eye and a level. Having determined what the problem is, we are trying to return the geometry to normal. Measures depend on how the box is installed:
See the video for the option to correct the gap in the porch. After front door installation it turned out that it was blowing strongly from under it. The owner corrected the warp with a hammer.
We eliminate the sagging of the door (shuffling on the threshold)
If, after several years of operation, the doors began to open with difficulty, while rubbing against the threshold, most likely the fact is that the ball or bearings have worn out. If possible, there are adjustments, you don’t even have to remove them. Just unscrew one of the bolts and lift it up slightly.
If there is no adjustment, there are several options:
- hinge replacement;
- replacement of bearings with new ones;
- installation instead of bearing washers.
All this is determined based on the situation and the design of the loop.
Adjustment of plastic entrance doors
Problems can be the same: friction, creaking hinges and a loose connection to the frame, which can blow. But adjusting PVC doors is easier - hinges and mechanisms are standardized, there are not so many types. So there is hope that you can handle the problems with your own hands, without calling the master.
Balcony door adjustment
After the summer, the plastic doors to the balcony sag: in the summer they often remain open for a long time, which is why such a nuisance happens. Then they touch the threshold, an unpleasant sound is heard, the plastic is erased. In this case, you need to lift the canvas up. This is done using the adjustment, which is located at the top of the lower loop.
They do this with the lock open, but the door is closed. Take a hex wrench (usually 4 or 5) and insert it into the hole, turn it a few turns. It is not necessary to immediately lift it strongly, as this can cause other problems. Raise only until the problem is fixed.
Sometimes, when closing, the doors rub from the side, touching the metal latches. It turns out that you need to move the canvas towards the hinged part. To do this, there is another adjustment on the same loop. It is located below, visible when the door is open.
This adjustment is also carried out with a couple of turns clockwise or counterclockwise. If you need to keep the doors from rubbing against the post, turn counterclockwise. Take a couple turns and check. Once the problem is gone, stop. Otherwise, you can move so much that the lock will no longer “cling” to the counterpart.
If the upper left corner “clings”, you need to adjust the loop that is at the top. The principle is the same: one or two turns, until the trouble is eliminated.
Top hinge adjustment - top left corner pressure
Clamp adjustment (so as not to see through)
Sometimes a weak pressure is observed from the side of the castle part. It seems that the canvas adjoins exactly, but it pulls noticeably from under the door. In summer this is not a problem, but with the onset of cold weather, it significantly reduces the temperature. There are two ways. The first is to adjust the clamping pins. These are metal protrusions on the sash.
They are of two kinds. as in the photo above - oval, and round, but with an eccentric in the middle. The position of this element determines the degree of pressure of the sash against the frame. The way to change the position depends on the shape of the trunnion. If it is the same as in the photo, take the pliers, clamp and turn slightly. Maximum pressure if the long side is turned horizontally, minimum - if it is directed vertically upwards. There are also all intermediate options.
If there is an eccentric in the center of the pin, then there is also a hole for the hexagon. Insert it and turn, achieving the desired degree of pressure.
It is not recommended to set the maximum value to the stasis: the seals will quickly lose their elasticity. Also make sure that all eccentrics are rotated the same way. This guarantees the normal operation of the fittings.
But sometimes there is a situation that the sash of the balcony door is not tightly pressed from the side of the hinges. This is also eliminated by adjusting the loops. Below it is under a protective cap. Take it off (pull up). Take the key (hexagon) and adjust the pressure of the lower right corner of the plastic balcony door with a couple of turns.
There are also hidden loops on the frame, which also have the ability to adjust the pressure. They are located on the frame from the side of the hinges. Adjustment with the same hex wrench. Turns "clockwise" and "counterclockwise".
Adjustment of plastic doors
There are different hinges on the plastic entrance doors, and there is no lock-and-tilt fittings. They have closed overhead loops. They have three settings:
- the height of the door leaf relative to the frame - from the bottom of the hinge;
- the density of pressing the canvas to the frame - on top of the loop;
- sash movement horizontally - sideways
They are enough if the doors were initially set correctly: the limits of change in positions are significant, which makes it possible to compensate for the changes that occurred during operation.
If a creak occurs in the hinges, they must be lubricated. To do this, remove the top cap and into the opened hole, into which grease is placed. Since plastic doors are mainly used as entrance doors in private houses and they go out into the street or into an unheated vestibule, you select a lubricant that does not thicken at low temperatures (Litol and Solidol).
Apply lubricant here
In some models of hinges, the cap is simply pushed on, in others, you need to unscrew it, and then pull it out. Decide on a place.
Sometimes a situation arises when intervention is required: the lock is poorly fixed. If the sash pressure is normal, the striker needs to be corrected. She is mobile in such doors. Loosen the mounting screws, use a screwdriver to move the bar a little in the right direction and tighten the screws back. You check. Should help.
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