Do-it-yourself ventilation device in a house with gas appliances. House ventilation. Ventilation system of a private house Section of the ventilation duct

have your own a private house out of town is great. But along with space and comfort come additional worries and responsibilities - controlling the operation of an autonomous heating system, roof waterproofing, ventilation system installation. Many do not realize how important ventilation is in the house until they encounter its absence. Without regular ventilation, condensation accumulates on the walls and ceiling, the finish deteriorates, bearing structures damp and rust. It is easy to guess that such a house will not last very long, and it will be completely uncomfortable to live in it. To avoid such problems, it is necessary from the very beginning to take care of installing ventilation in a private house.

Depending on the method of setting the air in motion, there are two types of ventilation systems: natural and forced. In the first case, the air flow moves independently due to the difference in pressure. It is known that air is always directed from the area high pressure to the low area. In nature, this is how wind is created, and on the scale of a single house - sufficient ventilation of the premises. However, it is almost impossible to create the necessary pressure drop in a house of 2-3 floors. This method is relevant only for urban high-rise buildings, so we will consider it only in general terms.

But it is worth paying attention to forced ventilation. The principle of its operation is the mechanical injection of air masses by means of fans. Depending on the nature of the air movement, such systems can be:

Supply - fans suck in fresh air from outside.
Exhaust - fans remove the exhaust air from the house.
Mixed - the best version of the system, in which fresh air enters the house and exhaust air is simultaneously removed.

Air masses can enter the room different ways: through special openings in doors or windows, ventilation windows, channels and air ducts.

natural ventilation

Natural ventilation in a private house is best used as an additional way to ventilate the premises. It is good if the house is located in an environmentally friendly natural area. If you live near a highway, construction site or factory, it is better to refuse such a system, because toxic gases and unpleasant odors will enter your house along with the air.

Natural ventilation is perfect for houses made of brick, wood, adobe, clay, foam blocks or monolithic expanded clay concrete. These materials have sufficient porosity and do not interfere with free air circulation.

To do natural ventilation in a private house is even more efficient, you need to provide air with unhindered access from room to room. To do this, so-called overflow holes or gratings are installed in the lower part of the door panels, and a gap of 2 cm is left between the lower edge of the door and the floor. increased level humidity. In this case, their area should be at least 80 cm².

Forced ventilation

As we have already said, the forced-type ventilation system is the best choice for a private house. She provides inner space a sufficient volume of air, and if you install special filters, then this air will also be completely clean. For houses made of sandwich panels, which have become very popular over the past few years, installing an air exhaust ventilation required. Otherwise, the tightness of the structure will not allow air to circulate. Mixed systems are also recommended to be installed in buildings made of expanded polystyrene concrete and frame houses.

A video about ventilation in a private house will help you better understand the situation:

Installation of the ventilation system

Before proceeding with the installation of ventilation in a private house with your own hands, it is necessary to develop an action plan and make calculations. How much air will the system pump into the house, and how quickly will it be able to bring the spent masses out? The calculation of air exchange depending on the area of \u200b\u200bthe house will allow you to choose the optimal power of the system.

You should also determine the cross section of the duct. The microclimate in the house will depend on this. After selecting the system type, draw detailed project ventilation of a private house: where the channels will pass, fans and openings will be located, with which parts will be attached, etc. The plan should show the sequence of actions, necessary materials and the end result of the work.

Each ventilation system has a certain rate of air mass movement. In a house with natural ventilation, this figure is approximately 1 m³ / h, while with mechanical ventilation it increases to 3-5 m³ / h. In private houses, only 2-3 floors, the air velocity is small, so it must be increased by force.

How to make a calculation

Before installing ventilation in a private house, it is necessary to calculate it. In this case, one should take into account not only the total area of residential and technical premises that require ventilation, but also the number of people living in the house. In some cases, for example, if you like to party often with a large number of guests, you need to consider this as well.

You should also take into account the fact that almost all electronics and Appliances reduce the volume of clean air. A gas stove, for example, burns oxygen intensively during operation, so it quickly becomes hot and stuffy in an unventilated kitchen. When calculating, determine in which rooms you need to increase air exchange. Usually these are rooms with a high level of humidity (kitchen, bathroom), but if the house has a boiler room, it also needs a lot of clean air.

You can calculate air exchange in different ways, but most of the methods require professional knowledge, charting and tables. Facilitate the task of the current state standards, calculated in accordance with sanitary standards and the specifics of the use of residential buildings. The rules and regulations in them will help you quickly determine the required capacity of the ventilation system. Most often used for household purposes simple circuits calculations: by area, multiplicity or sanitary standards.

Let's take a quick look at each method:

It is easiest to calculate air exchange by area, so most self-taught masters use this method. In addition, these calculations are only applicable to residential buildings. According to current regulations, 3 m³ of fresh air per hour per 1 m² of area must be supplied to residential premises. Thus, to find the amount of air exchange, you must first determine the total area of \u200b\u200bthe house, and then multiply it by 3.
Calculating air exchange by multiplicity is a little more difficult, and this method is mainly used by specialists, but it gives more accurate results. Calculations allow you to find out how often the exhaust air must be replaced with new air in order to fully comply with accepted standards and ensure high-quality ventilation.
The calculation according to sanitary standards takes into account the results of calculations by the multiplicity, and also uses standards measured in m³ / h for each person in the house. Typically, this method is used in the construction of ventilation in offices, shops and other buildings where there are constantly a lot of people, but their number is not fixed.

If you try to calculate the air exchange rate in all three ways, you will get different results, but they will all be correct, because they completely correspond current regulations. For a private house, it is most convenient to use the first method - calculation by area.

Section of the ventilation duct

When you have calculated the air exchange and know how much ventilation should be, it's time to choose the cross section of the air ducts and choose their layout. In stores, you will find two types of rigid ducts: rectangular and round.

The easiest way is to choose the optimal channel section using a special diagram that takes into account the speed of movement of air masses and their consumption. For example, if the standard air exchange is 360 m³ / h, then for a ventilation device in a private house, rectangular ventilation ducts 160x200 mm in size or round ones with a diameter of 200 mm will be needed.

Supply valve

Today, every second house has metal plastic windows. Double-glazed windows have earned wild popularity due to their exceptional performance characteristics- they do not allow moisture to pass through, reliably protect from the cold, but at the same time they impede the microcirculation of air in the house. If you decide to change wooden windows on plastic ones, then when choosing, check with the seller whether a supply valve is installed in the double-glazed windows. This detail allows oxygen to get inside the house.

If you already have double-glazed windows installed, but there are no valves in them, it's okay. You can install the inlet valve yourself. To do this, a small hole is made in the wall near the window, where a branch pipe is inserted, closed on both sides with bars. Inside the pipe can have a filtration system so that only clean air gets inside. It may also have a layer of insulation or a special heater for air in order to winter period do not cool the room.

Recuperators

Recuperation is the heating of fresh air on the way inside the house through the ventilation duct. The use of a heat exchanger in a private house is fully justified, and the cost of purchasing it is fully paid off during the heating period, after which you start saving on heating. If you have installed a supply and exhaust forced ventilation, then in winter the cold air will be drawn in by the fans and cool the premises. You will have to increase the heating power, use more fuel, and this process will continue continuously.

The heat exchanger is a special box with thermal insulation and a heater, which is mounted on the path of clean air in the supply duct or immediately behind the fan. The fan sucks in cold air, it enters the heat exchanger, heats up to a comfortable temperature and goes to the living quarters. As a result, you save up to 50% of heat.

Due to the large size of the heat exchanger, it will be most convenient to place it in the attic or in the basement.

Requirements for ventilation in a private house

Every owner wants to make high-quality and proper ventilation in a private house, but when faced with a similar task for the first time, it is difficult not to make mistakes. So that some of them do not become fatal, we recommend that you look at the list of requirements for ventilation systems for self-assembly.

How to install ventilation in a private house:

The exhaust air from the ventilation duct must exit on the roof. If you lead the air duct through the wall, it must rise above the ridge beam by at least 50 cm.
fence grate compulsory system should be at a level of 2-3 m from the ground. Also, it must be covered with a fine-mesh net so that small insects and debris do not get inside.
Organize the movement of air in the house in such a way that it goes from the bedroom, nursery, living room and other rooms towards the most polluted rooms - the kitchen, bathroom, boiler room.
Plan the layout of the ventilation ducts so that they pass to each room.
If the ventilation system contains filters, remember to clean or replace them from time to time. It is better to mount the supply valve with a filter in the wall closer to the window, so that later it would be more convenient to carry out Maintenance and cleaning.

Making ventilation in a private house is not so difficult if you make the right calculations and purchase high-quality equipment.

Ventilation in a private house: photo

In the very first winter after buying my house, I encountered an unpleasant problem: the air in it was damp, musty, and the windows were constantly covered with drops of condensate. The reason was an ill-conceived ventilation system. Today I want to talk about how ventilation should be designed in a private house in accordance with the current SNiP, and about own experience its installation.

Regulations

Which building codes regulate the operation of ventilation in a private house?

Mandatory Appendix 4 to SNiP 2.08.01-89 contains norms for air consumption through hoods for rooms of different functionality;
A guide for designers engineering systems private houses is designed to develop and specify the requirements of SNiP 2.04.02-84 and 2.04.01-85.

An interesting point: the last two SNiPs are not related to the air exchange of the building with the street and regulate the construction of water supply networks - external and internal. However, the manual touches upon the problems of sewerage, heating and ventilation.

Let's get to know regulatory requirements to the operation of the ventilation system.

SNiP 2.08.01-89

Image	Type of room and air flow rate for it
	Living room: 3 cubic meters per hour per square meter area.
	Kitchen: With electric stove - not less than 60 m3/h; With a gas two-burner stove - not less than 60 m3 / h; With a gas four-burner stove - not less than 90 m3 / h.
	Bathroom: 25 m3/h.
	Toilet: 25 m3/h.
	Combined bathroom: 50 m3/h.
	Laundry: 7 m3/h with an air inflow of at least 4 m3/h.
	Dryer, ironing room: 3 m3/h with an inflow of at least 2 m3/h.

The lobbies, halls and corridors are not provided with their own ventilation. Air exchange in them occurs due to the operation of hoods in adjacent rooms.

Manual to SNiP 2.04.02-84 and 2.04.01-85

This document tells in more detail how to make ventilation in a private house. Here are its key requirements:

The presence of a ventilation system in an individual house is mandatory. Exhaust ventilation (preferably with natural draft) is supplied to auxiliary rooms - bathroom, combined bathroom, shower room, toilet. The inflow of fresh air into living rooms can be provided through supply ducts, supply valves in windows or walls, as well as with periodic ventilation through vents and windows;

In houses with loosely fitted wooden frames, the inflow is provided by gaps in them. This is how the ventilation system was designed in all apartment buildings Soviet-built: ventilation ducts in the bathroom, bathroom and kitchen were responsible for the hood, and clean air entered the apartment through large-slotted frames.

All internal doors in the apartment must have a 2 cm gap between door leaf and threshold. It is needed for air flow between rooms;

The presence of supply and exhaust ducts in each room makes this requirement optional. In this case, the ventilation systems of individual rooms operate independently of each other.

Natural exhaust can be supplemented by forced ventilation(centrifugal or axial fans in exhaust channels);
If the extract prevails over the inflow, the difference is compensated by periodic ventilation through the windows;

If the inflow prevails over the exhaust, the solution is the same - periodic ventilation. But the vents and windows open from the side of the windward facade (from the leeward side of the house);
In the warm season, exhaust ventilation of the house is not standardized: its performance may obviously exceed the calculated values. The maximum capacity limitation is only valid in winter, when losses warm air lead to increased consumption of thermal energy;
The influx of cold outdoor air should be organized as close as possible to the heat source.. There, the supply air quickly mixes with warm air masses, without creating drafts and cold streams.

Practice

Now I will talk about how to properly ventilate a private house, paying attention to practical solutions.

When designing ventilation in a house, consider the wind rose. The prevailing wind direction will create a pressure difference between the two facades of the house. It is better to place the inflow on the windward side, the hood - on the leeward side: then the wind will not interfere with the natural circulation of air, but help it.

The hood is always mounted under the ceiling. The higher the better. The exhaust air, together with water vapor, dust, soot and unpleasant odors, is displaced by colder masses of supply air upwards. From there it must be taken.

When installing ventilation ducts, make acoustic decoupling between rooms. First of all, the instruction concerns plastic pipes: due to their small wall thickness, they tend to resonate, amplifying the sound. A couple of turns of the air duct and its rigid fixation to the main walls at the bend eliminates the spread of noise through the ventilation.

Provide an exhaust duct with a fan. Forced ventilation it is more convenient than natural in that it provides a constant performance, which is almost independent of the air temperatures in the room and on the street, as well as the direction of the wind. Air flow through the ventilation duct with natural draft in calm weather and in strong wind may vary several times.

Use duct fans and hoods with plain bearings and bronze bushings. Their price is 10-30% higher than that of fans with ball and roller bearings, but the noise level during operation is at least half as much.

Organize the flow of air through the basement or subfloor. The soil below the freezing level and under the foundation of the house has a constant temperature of + 10-14 degrees all year; that is why the basement is always above zero. If the supply air enters through the basement, it is heated without any effort on your part.

With inflow through the basement or underground, ventilation can work in a private house with strip foundation. If the house is on stilts, the underground has the same temperature as the street.

My experience

It was

So, at the time of my move to new house the picture was like this:

Ventilation in the house was carried out only by ventilation through the windows. Constantly working ventilation ducts were absent as a class;
Humidity skyrocketed. In winter, it is impossible to keep the windows open all the time, and when closed windows all evaporation (moisture from breathing, washing dishes and floors, drying clothes, etc.) remains in the house;
The windows were constantly covered with drops of condensation;

The walls in the coldest corners were damp despite the heating;

At an air temperature of +18-20 °C, it was subjectively cold at home. High humidity increases the thermal conductivity of the air and, following it, heat loss through the skin.

It became

After the ventilation for the house was brought into proper condition, it finally became comfortable in it.

Air condition: dry and fresh.

Smells: Disappear within half an hour to an hour after cooking or using perfume.

Condensation on windows and walls: missing.

Subjective temperature: at +18 the air in the house is perceived as warm.

Solutions

Here are the details of the implementation of the ventilation system in my country house.

Basement:

Image	Ventilation channel
	tributary: window in the basement of the house.
	Hood: vertical shafts in the ceiling between the basement and the first floor. From above, they are covered with ventilation grilles with meshes to protect against insects.

Bedroom:

Image	Ventilation channel
	tributary: shaft in the floor connecting the bedroom through the ceiling to the basement. Air is supplied to the room with a temperature of about 14 degrees. Top grill supply ventilation it is blown by the air flow from the air conditioner, which is responsible for heating the bedroom in winter, so you can not be afraid of cold drafts.
	Hood: ventilation grille in the ventilation duct, common to the bedroom, bathroom and kitchen. An exhaust pipe with a duct fan is led out of the ventilation duct to the street.

Children's:

Image	Ventilation channel
	tributary: gap under the door. Air enters through it from the bedroom, into which it is supplied from the basement (let me remind you, heated to +14 degrees).
	Hood: a duct fan drives air into a vertical ventilation duct that is shared with a neighbor's house. The bends of the plastic ventilation pipe provide acoustic decoupling from neighboring rooms. The dimmer on the fan's power cord allows you to adjust its speed, balancing between noise level and performance.

1st floor bathroom:

Image	Ventilation channel
	tributary: gap under the bathroom door
	Hood: ventilation grilles in the outboard plasterboard ceiling. They open into a common ventilation duct with a duct fan at the outlet.

Attic floor bathroom:

Image	Ventilation channel
	tributary: gap under the door to the bathroom.
	Hood: ventilation grille in the ceiling. A duct fan with a capacity of 105 m 3 per hour is hidden behind the grille.

Bathroom ventilation - common with ventilation of the rest of the volume. There is a tee in front of the duct fan, which takes part of the air from under the ceiling of the bathroom, and part from the space between the suspended attic flow and the roof.

Installation of the ventilation duct is made with a gray sewer pipe with a diameter of 110 mm; outer pipe brought out through the top of the pediment of the house and equipped with an umbrella-deflector to protect against rain.

Conclusion

I hope that my experience will help the reader to avoid the mistakes typical for a beginner in construction. To learn more about how ventilation is installed in a private house with your own hands, the video in this article will help you. Feel free to add and comment on it. Good luck, comrades!

When developing a project and building an individual dwelling, it is planned to design a set engineering networks: electrical, plumbing, sewer and, of course, ventilation. The comfortable microclimate in the premises largely depends on the latter. Therefore, the installation of ventilation ducts in a private house must be carried out in strict accordance with existing norms and rules, which will be discussed below.

The need for ventilation

With the problem of installing an effective ventilation system for the premises, the owners of their own cottages faced not so long ago. Previously, a small ventilation duct in a private house did an excellent job with the tasks assigned to it. After all, brick walls and wooden windows perfectly let in the air that was necessary for ventilation.

But in modern construction for the most part non-breathable materials are used:

polymer windows that prevent the appearance of cracks and cracks;
frame structures protected by polyethylene membranes;
roofs equipped with vapor and wind protection films.

All the elements of the building listed above completely block the natural air flow. Consequently - high humidity air, which leads to the appearance of condensation on the glass, moisture on the walls and mold in the corners of the rooms.

Note!
Residents of old houses also face similar problems, who replaced their wooden windows with plastic ones with their own hands and did not take care of constructing ventilation ducts.

Elements of the ventilation network

Central exhaust duct

The instruction regulating the process of building individual dwellings states that duct ventilation for the house should be provided at the stage of drawing up project documentation. If for some reason this was not done, it is possible to equip the air intake and exhaust system in finished house. For this, ready-made ventilation ducts are used.

Note!
The price of installing ventilation in an already erected building can be much higher than constructing this engineering network directly during the construction of the house.
In the vast majority of cases, the mentioned method is used to equip the supply and exhaust channels of an old, but overhauled house.

By installing ventilation ducts, and possibly additional mechanical equipment (fans, heat exchangers, filters, etc.), you can avoid negative consequences described in the previous section.

Before starting the installation of the central and peripheral air ducts, it is necessary to determine the type of air exchange system:

natural - in a modern private house it is not very effective, since airtight window systems prevent the flow of fresh air, and temperature changes in the cold season reduce the efficiency of traction;
supply - suitable for private houses up to 300 square meters;
supply and exhaust - the most efficient system that, in the presence of a heat exchanger, allows not only to ventilate all rooms, but also to create a comfortable temperature in them.

All of them, with the exception of small nuances, are designed according to the same principle, therefore, the features of installing ventilation ducts for supply system.

Note!
In addition to ventilation of residential and auxiliary premises, ventilation of the sewerage in a private house is also necessary.
For its manufacture, special types of air ducts are used.

Arrangement of mechanical ventilation

The system of forced fresh air supply and removal of polluted air masses is designed according to the following principles:

On the roof of a private house (usually in the kitchen area), two ventilation ducts are installed, which will serve as the basis for the entire future system. One of them serves to suck in air, the other to remove it from the premises.
An electric fan equipped with an electronic on/off system is installed on the exhaust air duct. The switching of operating modes is based on information received from external sensors that control the humidity and temperature in the premises.
The entrances of the ventilation ducts inside the premises must be installed so that the incoming air enters the living quarters (bedroom, living room), passes through the corridor, kitchen and sanitary block, where it enters specially equipped hoods.

As a result of this organization of air flows, moisture formed in the kitchen is excluded and unpleasant odors to other areas of the house.

Air intake system

As mentioned above, laying ventilation ducts in an already built house is very problematic. In this case, you will either have to punch holes in the walls, which is impossible in some cases, or install air ducts in an open way, which will have an extremely negative effect on the interior.

The best option is to construct a system of air ducts in the attic, and arrange their outlets on the ceiling, masking unsightly holes with decorative grilles.

The material for arranging ventilation is ready-made plastic or metal-plastic ventilation ducts of a suitable section.

They are:

round;
rectangular.

The latter variety is preferable, as it is easier to install on site.

In addition, at work you will need:

grids;
valve;
connectors;
lattices and so on.

In order for the mounted ventilation ducts to work with maximum efficiency, it is advisable to follow the following tips when installing them:

In each living room, it is better to make two supply channels, which will allow you to pump more air.
The cross section of the air ducts and the power of the fans must be calculated based on the area of \u200b\u200bthe premises.
Incoming air ducts should be present only in residential premises, while an exhaust system is installed in the auxiliary ones.

Outgoing air channels

The central channel, through which polluted air will be removed from the premises, is installed on the roof in the kitchen area. The fact is that, unlike supply air ducts, the exhaust system should be as short as possible. This will avoid the formation of condensate and other problems leading to malfunctioning of the ventilation network.

Note!
A similar arrangement of the pipe for removing air is also due to the fact that a stove is installed in the kitchen, which, as a rule, is a source of most harmful impurities.

You should also be aware that the air removed from the premises is warmer than the air masses that are outside. Therefore, it is imperative to take care of the insulation of the output channels, otherwise moisture will condense inside.

In addition to the central pipe, peripheral ones are installed. Their entrances are mounted above the kitchen, bathroom and toilet.

To increase the efficiency of the exhaust ventilation, it is recommended to install a fan in the system. Hood over gas oven and the heating boiler pipe must enter the air channel after it (for this, tie-ins are used).

Air ducts in the boiler room

One of the features of a private house is the presence of a boiler that heats the room. Often it is installed in the kitchen, but sometimes a special room is allocated for it - the boiler room. It must also be equipped efficient system removal of air polluted by combustion products.

In the manufacture of the boiler room ventilation system, the following rules should be followed:

The room has two ventilation ducts that go outside. One of them will serve to remove combustion products, the second - to clean the air inside the room.
It is not necessary to mount a fan in the channel intended for smoke removal. It will constantly fail.
The gas mixture that is discharged through the ventilation duct is much hotter than the surrounding air. Therefore, moisture can constantly form on the walls of the pipe, negatively affecting the operation of the boiler. To avoid this, the pipe must be insulated with mineral mats.
On the contrary, it is desirable to equip a ventilation duct designed to ventilate a room with a fan that can rotate in both directions. This will increase the volume of incoming and outgoing air.

Ventilation for fireplace and stove

If in any of the living rooms it is planned to install a fireplace or a solid fuel stove, steps should be taken additional measures to ensure the supply of clean air to this room and the removal of combustion products.

This will create the most favorable conditions for the complete combustion of firewood or coal, because, as you know, a flame cannot exist without oxygen.

In addition, with inefficient operation of the ventilation system and a lack of oxygen, during combustion, carbon monoxide and other dangerous products that, if accumulated in the room, can cause harm to health and even lead to death.

Many do not bring separate air ducts into the room, preferring to open a window. But in this case, you will encounter inefficient use of heat, because most of it will evaporate during slot or burst ventilation.

Installation of air ducts on the roof

Most of the problems arise when arranging the outlets of ventilation ducts through the roofing.

In order not to make extra holes in the tiles or slate and to avoid rainwater getting into the attic, the following tips must be followed when installing air pipes:

Before designing a ventilation network, it is desirable to draw up a plan indicating the locations of all air ducts, including their points of exit through the roof.
For the arrangement of the considered ventilation ducts, it is necessary to use special parts. In extreme cases - a stainless steel pipe with insulation.
Before installation central channel it is advisable to pre-make all the necessary holes in it, which will simplify further work assembly of the entire ventilation system.
The places where the pipe adjoins certain structural elements should be sealed. Any silicone compound or cement mortar will do.

Advice!
After processing the joints, it is necessary to suspend the installation of ventilation until complete.
The central air ducts must be strictly vertical, otherwise there is a danger of moisture forming on the inner surface of the pipes.

Disadvantages of forced ventilation

Despite the obvious advantages, mechanical ventilation It also has some disadvantages that you should be aware of:

, filtering air, quickly becomes clogged with dust, which requires constant maintenance.
Electrical equipment (fans, recuperators) consumes electricity, increasing utility bills.

Advice!
If the technical conditions allow, it is advisable to focus on the design of natural ventilation, the performance of which is sufficient in most cases.

Conclusion

The right choice and installation of ventilation ducts in a private house is the key to efficient and uninterrupted operation of the ventilation system. You can learn more about the arrangement of ventilation systems from the video in this article.

Natural ventilation channels

For effective ventilation, Each room in the house must have two ventilation devices: one is for air supply, the other is for removing air from the room.

Every room in a house or apartment equipped with a supply and exhaust device for natural ventilation according to one of three options:

Supply valve in a window or outer wall for air flow. overflow hole in adjoining room with an exhaust duct for air removal (hole in a door or internal wall, partition).
For air flow overflow hole from an adjacent room with a supply valve, and exhaust channel
Inlet valve for inflow, and exhaust channel ventilation to remove air.

Check whether in the house or apartment where you currently live, whether all rooms have supply and exhaust devices ventilation?!

In which rooms it is necessary to make exhaust ventilation ducts

Exhaust ducts for natural ventilation must be provided from the following premises of the house:

Sanitary facilities - bathroom, toilet, laundry.
Kitchens.
Dressing room, pantry - if the doors of the premises open into the living room. If the doors open into the corridor (hall, kitchen), then one of two things can be done: arrange an exhaust duct from the premises or install an inlet valve in a wall or window.
The boiler room must have both a ventilation duct and a supply valve.
From rooms separated from rooms with a ventilation duct by more than two doors.
On the floor above the first floor, subject to availability entrance doors from the stairs to the floor - ventilation channels are made from the premises indicated above, or (and) from the corridor, hall.
On the floor above the first, in the absence of entrance doors from the stairs to the floor, each room on the floor is equipped with both a ventilation duct and a supply valve.

In other areas of the house that do not have exhaust ducts for natural ventilation, be sure to install an inlet valve in a window or in a wall and an overflow hole in an adjacent room.

In addition, natural ventilation exhaust ducts are arranged for ventilation:

Sewer pipe riser.

Building rules (clause 6.5.8 of SP 60.13330.2016) require in residential buildings for premises that house gas equipment (gas boilers, water heaters, cookers, etc.), provide for mechanical forced exhaust ventilation and natural or mechanical supply ventilation.

Location and dimensions of ventilation ducts

The minimum side dimension of the natural ventilation duct is 10 cm., and the minimum cross-sectional area is 0.016 m 2., which roughly corresponds to the diameter standard pipe ventilation duct - 150 mm.

Channel minimum size will provide air extraction in the amount of 30 m 3 / hour with a vertical pipe length of more than 3 m. To increase the performance of the hood, increase the cross-sectional area of the channel or the length of the channel. Channels less than 2 m. do not provide required intensity natural ventilation.

In practice, the length of the ventilation duct on the floor is usually set by design considerations - the number and height of the upper floors located above, the height of the attic, the length of the pipe above the roof. On the floor, the length of all channels must be the same. This is done so that the traction force in each channel on the floor is approximately the same.

The cross-sectional dimensions of the channels on the floor are often made the same, but for structural reasons it is more convenient. The performance of the ventilation channel in a particular room of the floor is adjusted by choosing the size of the ventilation grille.

Ventilation channels from the premises of the house on different floors are placed side by side, combining them into a block of ventilation channels.

For constructive reasons, they try to lay several ventilation ducts from the premises of the same floor side by side, in one place they create a block of ventilation ducts.

Block of ventilation channels in stone houses usually placed inside the carrier inner wall at home or attached to the wall.

The block is laid out from masonry materials, for example, bricks. In brickwork, it is convenient to make channels with a cross section that is a multiple of the size of the brick, taking into account the thickness of the seams - 140x140 mm. (1/2 x 1/2 bricks, 196 cm 2) or 140x270 mm. (1/2 x 1 brick, 378 cm 2)

Expanded clay concrete ventilation block, two-channel 390x190x188 mm. Flow area of one channel 168 cm 2
Concrete blocks for laying ventilation ducts in a private house. Block height 33 cm., width 25 cm., wall thickness 4 cm. Flow area of one channel 12x17 cm. (204 cm 2)

They release hollow concrete blocks specially designed for laying ventilation ducts.

A block of ventilation ducts made of masonry materials must necessarily be supported by a foundation or reinforced concrete floor.

In other cases, for example, in wooden or frame houses, a block of ventilation ducts is assembled from plastic or galvanized steel pipes. A block of pipes is closed with a box.

How to merge multiple channels into one channel

In a private house, the number of channels is small, so there is no need to combine air flows from several channels (rooms or floors) into one, as is often done in apartment buildings. Each channel of natural ventilation in a private house should begin indoors and end at the head on the roof. Any combination of two or more channels impairs ventilation performance.

In some cases, however, there is a need to combine several channels, combine them into one common channel of natural ventilation.

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Ventilation channel performance

Performance of a single exhaust ventilation duct with a section of 12x17 cm.(204 cm 2) from concrete blocks, depending on the height of the channel and the temperature in the room:

Productivity of channels of natural ventilation with a section of 12 x 17 cm.(204 cm 2) depending on the height of the duct and the temperature in the room (at an outdoor temperature of 12 about C)

To determine performance for intermediate values of channel height, plot the dependence on the axes: channel height and performance.

Similar tables can be found for ventilation ducts that are made of other materials.

However, for ventilation ducts of the same section (204 cm 2), but made of other materials, the performance will differ slightly from that indicated in the table.

For a channel of a different section, the performance value from the table can be proportionally increased or decreased.

To increase the performance of a ventilation duct of the same height, it is necessary proportionately increase the cross-sectional area of the channel. For this, for example, a concrete block with a larger hole is selected, or two or three channels of the above size are used to ventilate one room.

Calculation of natural ventilation of a private house

AT building regulations the minimum required capacity of natural ventilation ducts is indicated. Usually people feel better when more fresh air is supplied to the room than specified in the norms. The performance of a natural ventilation duct is highly dependent on atmospheric and other variable factors (air temperature inside and outside, wind pressure and direction, resistance to air flow into the room). All this suggests that for a private house, it makes no sense to scrupulously accurately perform the calculation. I recommend rounding the calculation results in the direction of greater productivity of natural ventilation channels. During operation, if necessary, the bandwidth of the channel can be easily reduced.

The calculation of natural ventilation is carried out in order to determine the size of the ventilation ducts based on the volume of air removed.

When determining the volume of air removed through the channels of natural ventilation, it is taken into account that in rooms with supply valves Air enters from the street, then this air flows into rooms with exhaust ducts, and is removed through the ducts again to the street.

The calculation is carried out for each floor houses in the following order:

Guided by the standards (see), determine the amount of the minimum volume of air that must come from outside for ventilation all rooms with supply valves - Q p, m 3 / hour.
According to the standards, the sum of the minimum volume of air that must be go outside for ventilation all rooms equipped with an exhaust ventilation duct - Q in, m 3 / hour.
Compare the calculated minimum values of air inflow from the street (Q p, m 3 / hour) and leaving for the street (Q in, m 3 / hour). Usually one of the values is greater than the other. The larger of the two values is taken as minimum estimated performance all exhaust ventilation ducts on the floor- Q p, m 3 / hour.
Based on the vertical dimensions of the house, the height of the natural ventilation channel on the floor is assigned.
Knowing the height of the ventilation duct, and the total estimated minimum performance of all ducts on the floor (Q p, m 3 / hour), according to the table (see above), the total number of standard channels from concrete blocks is selected. The total performance of the selected number of standard channels must not be less than Q p, m 3 / hour.
The selected number of standard channels is distributed between the premises of the house, which must be equipped with exhaust ventilation ducts. When distributing, the need to ensure standard air exchange in each individual room with a ventilation duct is taken into account.

An example of calculating the natural ventilation of a private house

For example, let's calculate natural ventilation in one-story house with a total floor area of 120 m 2. The house has five living rooms with a total area of 90 m 2, kitchen, bathroom and toilet, as well as a dressing room (pantry) with an area of 4.5 m 2. Room height - 3 m. The house is made with natural ventilation of the underground space through the ventilation duct. The height of the ventilated space under the floor 0.3 m. We use concrete blocks for the installation of ventilation ducts - see above.

Fan at the entrance to the natural ventilation duct

Continuation: for the next

When creating a residential project, the development of various engineering networks is always provided: water supply, electricity, sewerage. To create a favorable climate for living, it is necessary to properly design ventilation ducts in a private house.

In order for ventilation to work properly and for a long time, you need to carry it out based on the rules and regulations listed below.

The role of the exhaust pipe in natural ventilation

There are three ventilation options: supply, natural, and supply and exhaust. Usually in houses ventilation system are designed in parallel with other networks. But if this was not taken into account in advance, then everything can be fixed by skillfully using natural ventilation. The exhaust pipe will help get rid of many negative consequences, if everything is organized correctly.

In order not to disturb the traction force during the movement of air through the channel, to reduce its resistance, it is not necessary to allow contractions and expansions. The channel must be vertical and straight. Only displacement is allowed, at an angle of 30 degrees, up to one or two meters.

A necessary condition for effective air exchange is a sufficient flow of air from the outside, but dense plastic windows can be an obstacle. Also in summer period when the air temperature in the house and outside is the same, the air movement stops.

Therefore, for home the best option will be a supply or supply and exhaust ventilation system. The first is suitable for buildings with an area not exceeding 300 square meters. m., and if the area is higher, then it is advisable to use the second.

What material should the pipes be

If you came to right decision- to make ventilation in the house, the following question arises: what material should the ventilation pipes be made of in a private house? Today, there are only two types of channels - round and flat. It is recommended to choose flat version because such pipes during installation are much easier to behave, easier to join and do not sag. To form a channel for air, ventilation pipes made of plastic or metal are used.

Today there is a wide range of auxiliary parts: connectors; gratings; all kinds of valves and grids that are used to create an air duct system.

How to install air ducts

In a finished house, in order not to spoil the interior, it is advisable to design an air duct system in the attic and bring it to the rooms. On the ceiling, everything is masked by decorative grilles. Air ducts for inflow should only enter living rooms. The inlet flow pushes and drives the air from these rooms towards the auxiliary ones (kitchen, bathroom), where the main exhaust duct is mounted. It is recommended to make two ventilation ducts in the house so that ventilation is more efficient. The amount of material is calculated from the area of the room.

An example of organizing an exhaust duct in a house

When there are many questions. How to make a hole in the roof for the hood and not spoil the roof in several places? When installing air ducts, you must follow the rules:

Initially, you should make detailed plan(scheme), according to which the wiring locations of all air ducts will be oriented and exit points through the roof will be marked.
To simplify the installation of the central channel, it is recommended to drill holes in the roof in advance, which will greatly simplify the work of assembling the ventilation.
Calculate the length and height of the network and the number of required components.
To equip the system, you need to use specialized materials and parts.
The areas where the pipe comes into contact with the roof must be carefully sealed to rainwater did not fall into gaps. To do this, use special frames, sealant, cement.

An example of the passage of a ventilation duct through the roof

The right choice and installation of ventilation ducts in a private house is the key to efficient and uninterrupted operation of the entire system.

How to ventilate

In houses built from aerated concrete, ventilation can be laid from plastic, galvanized steel or asbestos-cement pipes. They can also be used for building an aircraft in a gas silicate house. AT big house, as a rule, the air duct is pulled into each room. To make it easier to install the hood, you can connect the exit from the bathroom and kitchen into one branch. Work is done at the level attic space, in the same place all pipes are insulated with insulating material.

For natural ventilation, pipes with a cross section of 15 cm are suitable; for forced ventilation, it is better to take pipes a little smaller. Cut a hole in the block required size. A 12.5 cm pipe is inserted there and fixed with a solution. It is necessary to install a branch in the first block, to which the ventilation duct is subsequently attached.

If the wall is thin, the channel is made of slate, pre-cut into narrow strips. These segments are mounted in a pre-prepared opening, and then it is plastered. You can make ventilation pipes yourself from improvised material, for example, from wave slate. To do this, you need to saw off two half-waves and connect them together with a thin wire. Homemade pipe It is also mounted on a brick base, and plastered inside.

It is impossible to lay channels in load-bearing walls!

For this, a separate shaft is always equipped, this is enough convenient way ventilation already in the finished house.

Moments of exhaust structures

The hood in the finished house plays an important role. It also serves as a chimney. Exhaust ventilation ducts should be installed in the kitchen. This arrangement of the channel is not at all accidental, because the air in the kitchen is the most polluted. Channel exhaust system should be shorter, unlike the supply one. So you can significantly reduce the likelihood of condensation in unheated areas.

For the least resistance to air movement through the exhaust duct, in other words, to increase the draft, the following conditions must be observed: one duct size, without constrictions; the direction of the pipes is straight without horizontal sections.

Exhaust duct with minimum length

To achieve greater efficiency of air extraction, you can install a fan in the central duct, which will subsequently draw air from the rooms.

For drawing over gas stove, as well as the pipes of the heating boiler, use tie-ins into the main channel, but only above the fan, otherwise it will quickly fail.

About air ducts in the boiler room

Particular attention should be paid to ventilation for a gas boiler in a private house. Usually a special room is allocated for the boiler room. Modern boilers require high-quality chimneys. To clean the room from the products of combustion, a separate ventilation is installed from the hood and gas pipe.

To make it efficient, a ventilation duct is installed in the boiler room in the form of two exhaust pipes that go outside and can be installed inside a brick channel. The first serves as a chimney and removes combustion products. The second channel is intended for cleaning and ventilation of the room. It is desirable to equip it with a fan that can rotate in both directions to enhance air exchange into the room. The hood is made of special steel, covered with heat-resistant enamel and can withstand high temperatures.

Two pipes for ventilation of the boiler room

For a gas boiler in a private house is also used coaxial chimney, consisting of two pipes located one inside the other. Exhaust gas is discharged internally.
In addition, sections of pipes passing through the attic and other cold rooms must be insulated so that condensation does not form on the pipe. You can use special, insulated pipes, or use fire-resistant mineral wool insulation.

Rules for ventilation systems

Consider the requirements that will help you properly install a ventilation system in your home:

Every hour in living rooms complete air exchange must take place.
There should be approximately thirty cubic meters of fresh air per tenant
In an hour, three air exchanges should be carried out in the boiler room.
It is impossible to use a pipe section of less than ten centimeters for a ventilation duct.
It is necessary to observe the installation methods: docking, transitions, inversions, tie-ins.
The exhaust duct must be vertical, at least three meters long.
All branches of the supply system must have the same length - thus, the same traction force is ensured.

Conclusion

It is possible to ensure good air exchange in the house, namely, to mount an effective ventilation system, having knowledge and taking into account all the nuances of installation. If you have doubts about your abilities, it is better to contact specialists. Proper organization of air exchange in the house is the key to comfort and health for many years.