Insertion of double-glazed windows in a wooden house. Features of installing windows in stone, frame and wooden houses. Creating and preparing a window opening

Before starting direct installation, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory measures:

  • dismantling the old window (if replacement is taking place);
  • cleaning the opening from dirt and debris;
  • make the necessary measurements and calculations;
  • drawing up a drawing and fixing the measurement parameters of the opening;
  • alignment of the contours of the sides of the window opening, if the hole has an irregular shape;
  • alignment is performed using putty or sealant;
  • decide on the design and functionality (number of doors, their size, which of them will open);
  • determine the manufacturer and color of the product.

Only after performing all the above manipulations, we order a window from the manufacturer, taking into account individual wishes.

Stage number 2. Installation

As soon as the windows are delivered and the necessary preliminary work has been carried out, you can proceed directly to the installation. Tools:

  • drill;
  • construction level;
  • chisel;
  • screwdriver;
  • roulette;
  • mallet;
  • pliers;
  • anchor plates and bolts;
  • key for adjusting windows;
  • mounting foam;
  • spacer wedges;
  • spray bottle with water.

Important! Installation of a plastic window in a wooden house is not recommended during strong winds and at low temperatures (not lower than -10 degrees).

Casing: purpose, types and design

The casing is a box-shaped structure, which is made of three or four boards and installed around the perimeter inside the opening.

The system allows you to install a plastic window yourself, so that the window is fixed independently of the main wall structure and has a floating character. The window system is fixed with the help of grooves on the side, which are mounted on spikes protruding from the end of the logs and timber.

To fix and seal the casing, only tow, linen or fiber insulation is used. In any case, mounting foam.

Attention! A gap is left at the top based on the draft of the wood.

Thus, the shrinkage of the walls of a wooden structure in no way affects the window and, moreover, will not damage it. Depending on the fasteners, casings can be classified into the following types:

  • into a spike. Such a design is characterized by the presence of a spike, which is mounted on the side parts of the casing, and a groove, which is located in the logs of the opening;
  • in a mortgage bar. The basis of the fastening is a bar, which is placed in a groove at the ends of the opening and passes through the casing posts;
  • into the deck. The spike is located at the ends of the logs of the window opening, but the groove is in the casing posts.

The box is a floating mechanism that excludes deformation of the plastic window during operation, regardless of the type of casing installation.

Calculations should be made with high accuracy, since even a slight error can lead to deformation of the window frame or leakage of the structure. In addition, proper installation is a guarantee of the quality of the plastic window itself.

How to make a pigtail (casing)

The design can be of two types: complex and simple. A simple pigtail is the system described above, with bars and grooves. The complex design is performed somewhat differently: a comb is cut out in the window opening, on which a carriage with grooves is put on. This option is more reliable. When the walls shrink, the comb can slide and does not allow vertical deviations, excluding pressure on the window frame.

The casing, as a rule, is made of timber. Using a wood chisel, a 0.5 cm groove is knocked out in the center of the beam, and a spike (0.5x0.5x.25 cm) is cut out from one end. A comb with spikes 0.5x0.5 cm is cut from the end of the opening logs. To do this, you can use a saw or a chisel.

Important! Ridge marking is an important point. The quality and reliability of the design depends on the accuracy of the markup.

After the comb is ready, we proceed to install the risers and form the opening structure between them. The bars are set according to the level, taking into account the gaps for shrinkage of the walls (1 cm on the sides and 0.5 cm on top). The frame of the bars is strengthened with the help of grooves with the main canvas of the walls and dowels between them. The gaps left are sealed with tow or other fiber. That's all, now you can proceed with the installation of the plastic frame itself. You can see the process in more detail in this video:

Stage number 3. Installation in the prepared opening

After carrying out the necessary preparatory work and installing the pigtails, you can proceed with the installation of the window.

Attention! Installing plastic windows in a wooden house without casing is the wrong option.

To begin with, we check the dimensions and location of the parallels, the gaps between the casing and the frame. The stock for foaming should be: 4-5 cm at the top, 2-3 cm in width and height, 3-4 cm in the window sill area. After making sure that the stock corresponds to these indicators, we proceed directly to the installation of a plastic frame.

The window is fastened with special fasteners, which are sold at any hardware store. They are metal plates with holes.

Installation of a plastic window should be carried out according to the level. If you neglect this factor, then you risk getting a design with a slope, which significantly reduces the operational and aesthetic objectives of the window.

Advice! Before installing the window, the sashes are removed. This facilitates the design and it is much more convenient to mount it in the opening.

After the window is fixed in the opening, it is necessary to fill the gap with mounting foam. To avoid displacement of the structure during foaming, bars are placed that will maintain the position of the frame without deviations. After drying, do not forget to remove it.

Securing the window in the casing is done with care. In this case, it is necessary to choose the correct location for tightening the screws. Under no circumstances should a window be fixed in the ridge area!

That's all, we finish the process by completely foaming the opening. We put on the sashes and let the foam dry.

We have presented the correct way to install a plastic window in a wooden house. This process can be difficult, so if you are unsure of your abilities, it is better to turn to professionals.

However, installing a plastic window with your own hands is a significant cost savings. We offer you to watch a video instruction for installing a window with your own hands:

Not the most secondary issue when building a house out of wood is the installation of plastic windows in a wooden house. The videos presented in the article will help you deal with it, but a certain minimum of theoretical knowledge to begin with will not hurt.

The fact is that the construction of a wooden house initially has its own specific features. Namely: if a building made of ordinary materials shrinks for about a year, then wood remains unstable in terms of physical properties for a much longer period (from five years and more). When it dries, the height of the walls decreases by an average of about 15 mm per meter of masonry. But the height of the wall we have is far from a meter.

What can be the result? A rigidly fixed plastic window in a wooden house with a gap of 25 mm placed on the mounting foam simply will not work, it will jam. So how to insert a plastic window in a wooden house?

The solution is to make the entire structure (the window with its surrounding periphery) slide relative to the wall. How to achieve this?

The easiest option is to cut a groove with a geometry of 50 × 50 mm at the ends of the desired window opening and insert a bar of the same size into it (the connection is not deaf). As a result, the mounted unit will receive mobility relative to the walls.

The option is good, but, unfortunately, it is only suitable for installing wooden windows.

The technology for installing plastic windows in a wooden house, alas, requires a different solution. A special design is installed in the window opening - casing (pipe). You can see her options here:

To put it even more simply, a spike (comb) is made at the ends in the window opening, along which the following design slides:

It is assembled from vertical bars 100 × 150 mm and boards 50 × 150 mm (horizontal lintels).

The assembled unit should be 75-80 mm smaller than the window opening.

This video shows the installation of plastic windows in a wooden house in stages:

The shooting quality is a little lame in terms of quiet viewing, but all operations are shown.

This video in a more relaxed mode shows almost the same actions:

These are the main features of installing plastic windows in a wooden house.

When building a wooden house, the question often arises which windows to install, wooden or plastic. Both have their own advantages and disadvantages. Plastic structures are distinguished by lower cost and longer service life. They require minimal maintenance during operation. Therefore, most often people choose this particular material. But what are the features of installing plastic window structures in wooden walls? Are there fundamental differences between installing windows in a new and old house? It is essential to know the answers to these questions. So, we install plastic windows in a wooden house with our own hands.

Features of window structures made of PVC

Plastic windows are a construction of a PVC frame with a metal profile inside and double-glazed windows. They are double and triple. Air is pumped out between the panes of double-glazed windows. The entire structure, assembled into a finished window, is completely sealed and provides all the necessary consumer properties. Features of materials, technology for the production of profiles and double-glazed windows, as well as their assembly into a single whole made it possible to endow plastic windows with important advantages:

  • They perfectly protect from the cold, thanks to the double-glazed windows with vacuum and the design of the plastic profile.
  • They have increased soundproofing qualities for the same reasons.
  • Their vents are so perfectly fitted that they exclude any distortions when properly adjusted and installed.
  • The service life of such windows exceeds 50 years.
  • They require no maintenance other than cleaning and lubricating the hinges.
  • They have an aesthetic appearance and a wide choice of models and profile colors.
  • The cost of plastic windows is much lower than those of wooden ones in terms of properties and quality.

An important point is that the installation of plastic windows is quite possible and independently, subject to certain rules. If for brick and concrete walls it does not present any difficulty, then for the installation of plastic structures in wooden houses, it is necessary to take into account a number of circumstances, which will be discussed later.

Installation of plastic windows in a wooden house to replace the old ones

Due to their excellent consumer qualities, affordable cost and the possibility of acquiring by installments and credit, plastic windows gradually filled a huge number of window openings even in old wooden houses. Today, an unimaginable number of companies are engaged in the installation of plastic structures on a professional basis. Often the cost of installing one window is up to 20% of its cost. At the same time, anyone who knows how to handle the tool is able to independently change the old windows in their house for new ones made of PVC.
To do this, you need some tools and materials:

  • Electric drill or puncher with a set of drills.
  • Gasoline or electric saw, nail puller or crowbar. For dismantling old jambs and frames.
  • Hand circular saw. For making grooves on the pigtail.
  • Building level. Essential for all work. Without it, you should not even start replacing windows.
  • Autonomous screwdriver.
  • Plastic chisel. Needed in order to select a groove in the risers of the pigtails.
  • Roulette.
  • A mallet made of rubber or wood.
  • Pliers.
  • Anchor plates and bolts, self-tapping screws.
  • Hexagon to fit window adjusting screws.
  • Construction mounting foam. One window can take from 1 to 3 cylinders, depending on the size of the gaps.
  • Gloves.
  • Wooden expansion wedges.
  • Water in the sprayer.

It is necessary to install windows with at least two people, since it is impossible for one person to lift and level a massive window. One person should support the frame, and the second should do all the manipulations to align it and fix it in the slopes.
First, dismantling work is carried out. If the old window blocks can still be used somewhere, and you want to keep them intact, then you will have to tinker, taking everything apart carefully. To do this, first take out the frames, and then remove the window sill and the block itself, trying not to damage it. Most often, in old wooden houses, only glazed frames can be used, and the blocks have already become unusable. In this case, they simply saw them in the middle and tear them out of the walls with a nail puller. The vacated opening is cleaned of debris and rot. If the log or beam under the window is rotten, and this is most likely the case, then they are also sawn out and replaced with new ones. The joints are foamed with mounting foam.

When the openings are completely cleaned, you can start finishing them before inserting plastic windows. There are two options here: the block is inserted directly into the opening, which is wrong, or it is first framed along the perimeter with a special pigtail. In the first case, it will only be necessary to cut off a spike in the walls with a chainsaw, on which the old wooden window block was held. In the second case, you need to make a new pigtail. You can’t leave old jambs, even if they are in excellent condition.

It should be noted that if the house is not very old, then making a pigtail is mandatory. After all, even for 5-6 years, a wooden frame tends to shrink, which can deform plastic blocks. The box is made in the following way. In a beam of 100x150 mm, a longitudinal groove is selected, having a width equal to the width of the ridge remaining on the walls. To do this, you need a circular saw, an ax and a chisel with a hammer. Longitudinal cuts are made with a saw, and then the groove is finalized with an ax and a chisel. With this groove, the resulting riser is installed vertically on the crest of the wall. There are two such risers for each window. At the bottom of each jamb, a spike 50x50x25 mm is selected. It is needed for attaching the lower bar, in which spikes are also made on both sides.

The risers should not reach 100 mm to the upper log of the opening. This will allow you to freely insert the top bar. It is necessary that it does not reach 45 mm to the log. Between themselves, all the bars of the pigtails are fastened with dowels, and the joints are insulated with jute tape.

Installing a plastic window block requires special care and precision. If you neglect the rules, then the window will not only open and close poorly, but it may also leak or freeze in winter. The easiest way is to drill a frame and screw it onto the screws directly to the walls. However, this is the worst and wrong option, which violates the thermal insulation and tightness of the plastic block. The technology for installing plastic windows in wooden walls involves the use of pigtails.

For the correct installation of PVC window blocks, special fasteners are required, a place for which is available at the ends of any frame. They look like thin metal plates with perforation. The frames have technical skids along the entire edge of the profile. They are made in the form of a gutter with a hook. To facilitate the design of the window, you can remove the doors and vents by removing the pins from the hinges. Sometimes this may not be enough, for example, when installing windows at high altitudes. In this case, all double-glazed windows can be removed so that only the frame remains. This will require a special device for pulling out plastic glazing beads. Only this must be done carefully so as not to damage the double-glazed windows and not violate the tightness of the profile.

The frame is installed using the building level. Alignment is done both vertically and horizontally. The frame is fixed first with wooden wedges-spacers. Before that, two identical chips 10 mm thick must be placed under the frame. This is enough to be able to foam the gap with mounting foam. This is required by the technology of installing plastic windows. The aligned frame is fixed with the help of mounts on the pigtail in several places.

After that, the window is completely assembled and the sashes are hung. Attention! Installation of double-glazed windows must be done correctly. Inside the frame there are deformation pads made of soft plastic. They must be located on all sides of the double-glazed window so that it does not directly come into contact with the profile anywhere. This is necessary so that as a result of accidental deformation, the glass does not crack. Since the glazing beads have corner cuts along the edges, it is not so easy to insert them into place. To install the glazing bead, one of its edges is inserted under the previous bead perpendicular to it. Then bend in the middle and gently insert under the second. Only after that they press it into place.

Correctly installed glazing beads should not have any gaps with the frame. When installing them, you need to try not to damage the sealing gum, otherwise water will accumulate in the frame. After installing double-glazed windows around the perimeter, foaming is carried out, not forgetting to remove chips and spacers after the foam dries. The resulting holes are foamed. Attention! If the frame is foamed without completely assembling it and without hanging the sashes, then when it hardens, the foam deforms it so that it will be impossible to insert and close anything.

Of course, self-installation of plastic windows in a wooden house has some difficulties, but if you do everything according to the instructions, following all the recommendations, then everything will work out for you, and the plastic windows installed by your hands will please you for a long time without causing any problems.

Now the matter remains small: to install a window sill, ebb and veneer the slopes, both inside and outside. To install the window sill, it is cut so that it does not go beyond the opening. Install it directly under the frame in level. To fix the window sill, it is wedged with wooden wedges between the walls. Bars are placed under the bottom so that it takes a horizontal position. After that, the entire space between the window sill and the slope is foamed. The ebb is also installed horizontally and the bent part is screwed onto the screws to the frame. There are a large number of ways to finish slopes, so we will not consider them within the framework of this article.

Installation of plastic window blocks in a new wooden house

Installing plastic windows in a new wooden house is somewhat different from replacing them in old openings. It is not required, for obvious reasons, to carry out dismantling work. Additionally, it will be necessary to form a ridge in the side walls of the openings. To do this, using a level, mark out two parallel lines exactly in the middle of the wall. The distance between them will be 50 mm. Along these lines, cuts are also made with a depth of 50 mm. Then, on both sides of the wall, a line is sawn at the same distance from the edge of the opening. The result is a comb that matches in size with the grooves on the racks of the pigtail.

Another nuance is related to the fact that a new wooden house shrinks a lot in the first year. In some cases, it can reach 5 cm. For this reason, it is better not to insert windows at all in the first year, but if there is such a need, then a shrinkage adjustment is necessary. To do this, at the top above the pigtail, it is necessary to leave a gap about 5 cm wide. It compensates for shrinkage and the frame will be unharmed. This gap can be temporarily filled with boards with soft insulation, so that after the main shrinkage it is foamed. As the boards shrink, they are taken out one at a time, allowing the gap to gradually narrow.

For wooden houses, you should not order ordinary white windows if you are not going to sheathe it with siding. A natural log or beam is worthy of brown windows or having a color similar to the wood structure. If you make an opanel under a tree on them, you get a very beautiful combination. White windows are in dissonance with wooden structures.

We examined ways to independently install plastic windows in wooden walls. As you can see, the technology is quite complicated, so it must be observed with great attention. Remember that violation of the technological rules for installing plastic windows leads to their deformation or loss of positive qualities.

It is known that wooden windows in houses built from timber are rightfully considered the safest and most practical solution that favorably affects the microclimate in the dwelling.

Fundamental in the presented case is that when it shrinks, the window system and walls behave uniformly. The decisive role here is played by their installation according to technology.

Features of installing windows in a wooden house

The assembly of windows in a timber structure has certain features. As you know, wood shrinks. In houses made of chopped logs or during the first 5 years, shrinkage is about 10-13% of the height of the building, while it shrinks no more than 2%.

If there is warping of window structures, the formation of interventional gaps in the walls or cracking of a double-glazed window, this indicates a violation of the technology during the installation process.

  1. In houses made of chopped wood, logs, planed or profiled timber, it is advisable to install a window support after shrinkage of the house (not earlier than 1.5 years after construction).
  2. The installation of windows after the construction of the log house is not rational due to the lack of the possibility of calculating the shrinkage of the walls. This indicator depends on the moisture content of the timber.
  3. In houses made of glued laminated timber, windows can be installed immediately after erection of walls and installation of a roof of the house.
  4. The installation of windows must be carried out exclusively by means of sliding joints - support bars and casing. Tying window blocks and pigtail construction to logs or timber is strictly prohibited. Tight fastening during shrinkage leads to a violation of the integrity of the window modules and walls of the building. In fact, the window system must balance separately in relation to the wall.
  5. In the upper part above the window frames, it is necessary to provide for a shrinkage margin - a gap of 6-7 cm. Miscalculations of spare gaps can lead to poor closing of windows or interventional gaps in the walls.

Scheme of installation of wooden windows

Window opening preparation

Before mounting the box, prepare a window opening. The opening should be rectangular in shape without cracks, recesses, distortions and other flaws. From all its surfaces it is necessary to remove construction waste, dirt, dust and deposits.

In order to avoid distortions in the future, accurate measurements of the external, internal and lateral sides of the opening are required.

In the case when the distortion of the opening is significant, and it is not possible to correct it, it is recommended to expand the parameters of the window in such a way that the highest level of the outer opening exceeds the width by 2.5-4 cm, and the height by 1-2 cm.

To carry out the extension makes it possible to install an additional profile on the window. This will prevent the appearance of gaps between the box and the hole in the areas of maximum skew.

In addition to the option of expanding the size of the opening to correct the skew, there is such an option as increasing the parameters of the window frame.

siege

A special design, which is a wooden box without a bottom crossbar, the purpose of which is to securely fasten the window and maintain the shape of the window frame, regardless of the degree of shrinkage of the house, is called casing or pigtail.

There are several types of this design:

  1. Whole. It is made from specially processed solid material.
  2. Adhesive. The individual components are made of typesetting boards, connected by means of micro-grooves and glue. All burrs and small knots are removed.
  3. Mixed. Part of the casing is made in one piece, and the other part is made using glue. Upon completion of installation, the pigtail is varnished. This type is suitable for the use of large window sills.

An okosyachka is made according to the size of each window. Moreover, if internal lining is planned, then a sample can be made for it. When facing on both sides, sampling is not performed.

The assembly of the casing can begin after the preparation of the window opening.

Its production is carried out as follows:

  1. Grooves are made in the base, which is adjacent to the window opening. A beam of the same size is inserted into them, acting as the side of the casing.
  2. First, a beam is placed at the bottom of the opening, which will prevent the displacement of the side elements.
  3. A seal is placed under the beam from linen tow.
  4. Sealing material is placed in the recesses and install the side boards.
  5. The final step is fixing the top board of the structure.
  6. A space is left on top of the pigtail for the wood to dry out and fill it with a sealant. So in the process of drying the logs, the window opening will not be affected by the load.

Window installation

The window is installed in the following sequence:

  1. A waterproofing layer is laid on the lower part of the opening. and sealing material.
  2. Install the window frame and fix it with the help of linings or wedges made of wood.
  3. Using a building level or plumb line, adjust the horizontals and verticals. In this case, attention should be paid to the actual horizontal and vertical, and not to the sides of the window opening.
  4. On each side of the opening, in increments of 50 cm, drill holes.
  5. With self-tapping screws fix the box.
  6. Perform isolation of the space between the box and the wall sealing material.
  7. Next, mount the frame. It is installed in the grooves of the box and attached to it with screws.
  8. Window blocks are installed on the box with hinges(separable and inseparable). The difference between them is the possibility of removing the hinge. Detachable are convenient in areas where there is no possibility of raising the window transom. Even fastening of the hinges contributes to the even hanging of window transoms. They are fastened with screws.
  9. The sash is locked by means of a locking element or a latch. After checking the opening and closing of the transom, fix the frame using nails.
  10. Next, proceed to the installation of window sills. They are mounted from the inside so that the side edges go into the walls by 4.5-5 cm on both sides.
  11. Immediately before installation, using a lime-gypsum mixture, align the bottom of the window opening.
  12. The window sill is fixed with wedges. After laying the thermal insulation material, it is finally fixed.
  13. Installation of ebbs is carried out from the outside of the opening- for the entire width of the frame penetration into the base.
  14. The gaps between the casing of the base and the box, as well as the upper and sides of the window, are closed with a casing. It is advisable to use the same type of wood from which the house is built as platbands.
  15. All parts of the casing are interconnected. To do this, use spikes, nails or adhesive solution.
  16. Preliminary marking of placement fasteners (the step is 10-12 cm).
  17. So that in the process of fastening the platbands they do not move, the design can be put on glue.
  18. The final step is to fix the platbands with nails or self-tapping screws., and closing the gaps between the base and the platbands with sealing material.

  1. For the manufacture of casing, wood with a moisture content of at least 10% is used., otherwise cracks form inside the structure over time.
  2. In the manufacture of pigtails is strictly prohibited use metal fasteners.
  3. Building foam cannot be used as a sealing material when assembling the casing. In this case, the wood is bonded, which prevents its natural shrinkage.
  4. In the process of installing windows, it is important to properly drill holes for them. The optimal distance from the window sill to the floor is 85-90 cm.
  5. Experts do not recommend installing windows without installing a pigtail, even if the house was built many years ago and the log house is completely dry. This is due to the fact that throughout the entire life of the tree has a tendency to shrink.
  6. For greater efficiency and heat retention, wooden windows should be installed closer to the outside of the window opening.
  7. As a material for the window sill, it is necessary to choose hardwoods. The window sill made of glued wood has the longest service life, the window sill made of solid wood has the shortest service life (as a rule, the product is warped).
  8. The corners of the window opening should be 90 degrees, and the diagonals should not differ by more than 10 mm. If the hole in the base is larger than the allowable value, more sealing material will be required. If you do not ensure the evenness of the corners, warping of the box is possible.
  9. It is important to correctly calculate the depth of the window in the opening so that the dew point isoline, equal to 10 degrees, passes in its inner part. Then there will be no condensation on the inside of the window.

Inserting a plastic window into a wooden house is not as difficult as it might seem: with the knowledge of some technical subtleties, it will be quite within the power of a non-professional. It must be remembered that wood is a special living material, and all work must be carried out taking into account the future shrinkage of the house. Therefore, the technology for installing a plastic window in this case will be somewhat different from standard installation. Let's consider each stage in detail.

Creating and preparing a window opening

How to insert a plastic window in a wooden house? The success of the work depends, first of all, on a well-prepared opening: most often it is cut through in a wooden house after the log house has been assembled, but sometimes it is done even at the construction stage. In the first case, it is possible to proceed to the preparation of openings only after the completion of the main shrinkage, that is, a year and a half after construction. The contours of the hole are drawn with a plumb line and a level, after which they are cut very carefully with a chainsaw.

It is advisable to apply the markup even at the stage of assembling the house, so that there are no pins in the places of the openings. The calculation is made so that the upper and lower logs are cut in half: this will allow you to calmly install the casing to even horizontal surfaces. When preparing the opening, it is necessary to take into account the size of the casing. Therefore, in width, it should be 14 cm larger than the frame dimensions, at least 12-14 cm larger at the top, and 7 cm at the bottom for installing a window sill and a layer of mounting foam.

If the opening is prepared at the assembly stage, it should be 10% less in width than planned. This is necessary, after the logs have dried, it will take the specified value. If you immediately give it a standard size, after shrinkage it will be larger than necessary.

Before inserting plastic windows into a wooden house, you should carefully process all the end parts of the logs, cover them with an antiseptic to protect them from decay. In addition, the wood must be sanded so that the surface is smooth. Often it has to be leveled in height: wooden houses rarely remain perfectly even after shrinkage. In order for the frame to fit correctly, the hole must be leveled with a laser level and a plumb line.

Casing box installation

If you want to understand how to correctly insert plastic windows into a log house, it is important to understand the installation of the casing. This design is also commonly called a pigtail: it is designed to protect the window opening from shrinkage. The pigtail is an additional frame that is mounted to the end parts of the opening logs according to the sliding principle: the logs will gradually descend along it and will not harm the frame.

To create a movable connection, several mounting options are possible:

  • A rectangular groove 5 cm wide and 5 cm deep is cut out in the end part of the logs and in the side parts of the casing box. A bar of the same size wrapped with insulation is inserted into it. When lowering the logs, they will gradually slide along the bar, while the casing will remain in place, and the window blocks will not suffer.
  • A groove is cut out in the logs with a depth and width of 5 cm, and a T-shaped design of a pigtail made of timber is inserted into it. The spike should fit snugly into the groove; to get rid of the creak, it is wrapped with a heater.
  • There is also a reverse option: a spike is cut out in the logs of the opening, and a pigtail groove is mounted on it.

In all cases, vertical elements are placed first, the upper and lower horizontal boards are mounted to them. In some cases, the pigtail is installed without the bottom. A gap of about 7 cm is left above the top board: it will gradually decrease as the walls are lowered and disappear completely in a few years. For a while, it is filled with insulation so that the heat does not go outside.

The casing box must not be installed on mounting foam, it must not be used to fill the upper gap. This is an inelastic material, it will not compress, so the casing will simply lose its meaning and will fall along with the house itself, breaking the frames.

The pigtail, like other wooden elements, is treated with an antiseptic. After the protective layer has dried, it is ready for the installation of a plastic block.

Design selection criteria

When deciding how to correctly insert plastic windows into a wooden house made of timber or logs, it is necessary to study the proposals of manufacturers. Plastic window systems are selected according to several parameters:

  1. The number of chambers in the profile determines the thermal efficiency. Manufacturers offer three-, four- and five-chamber profiles. A four-chamber one will be quite enough for the conditions of the middle lane: thanks to the air gaps, it will not freeze through and will be strong enough.
  2. Glass unit type. The more air chambers and sheets of glass in it, the more powerful heat insulator it will be. However, triple-glazed windows are very expensive, while they are heavy and require high-quality fittings.
  3. Hardware type. You can not save by choosing a set of accessories. The performance of the handle, the ability to choose operating modes, as well as the strength of the frame itself depend on it. If you choose a cheap option, very soon the window will begin to sag and will not close well.
  4. Manufacturer. The original German systems Rehau, KBE and others are considered a classic option that guarantees excellent quality. However, their full counterparts are now being manufactured in Russia, which are much cheaper. In addition, we must remember that it is more profitable to purchase any products and designs directly from the manufacturer, in this case they cost a much smaller amount.

In addition to the frames themselves, you need to purchase handles, ebbs, window sills, additional accessories, as well as trim that will close the mounting seam. Typically, installers offer a complete installation kit along with the window unit. It can be supplemented with anti-burglary fittings, special child locks, a “comb” for ventilation, etc.

Window sill installation

Dust and debris are removed from the opening with the casing already installed, the surface is cleaned. After that, they put the window sill: it is the basis for the window, so you need to mount it as evenly and accurately as possible. To install it, you need to make 8 mm cuts in the window box, the window sill itself is attached to the bottom of the casing or the bottom log with self-tapping screws. It is advisable to put special washers under them so that the plastic does not start to crack.

The window sill must be strictly horizontal, so after installation it is checked with a building level. If there are any deviations, plastic or wooden wedges are placed under it.

After mounting the frame, the attachment points of the self-tapping screws will be invisible, they will be completely hidden by the box. The window sill can be not only plastic: it is made of natural or artificial stone, wood, and other materials.

Frame assembly

How to insert plastic windows in a wooden house? When all the preparatory work is completed, you can proceed directly to the installation of the window system. The protective film is not removed from it until the very end of the process, this is guaranteed to protect it from damage. A handle is pre-attached to the frame, as shown in the instructions attached by the manufacturers, sashes with double-glazed windows can be removed during installation, it is much easier to work with an empty box.

The installation process is as follows:

  1. In the side posts of the casing and in the side parts of the window, 4 holes are drilled for installing fasteners. The distance from the top and bottom edges to the hole should be 25–30 cm, such an arrangement of the fasteners will ensure an even distribution of the load.
  2. The window frame is placed in the opening, after which it is leveled with the help of a building level, a plumb line and spacer bars. When it takes a perfectly flat position, it is attached to the casing with long self-tapping screws.
  3. Important! Self-tapping screws should not go through the casing and twist into the wall. The block is attached exclusively to the casing, otherwise its installation will be useless, and the plastic block will suffer from shrinkage. The casing is movably connected to the house, and the logs will gradually take their places, while the window frame must be stationary.

  4. Doors with double-glazed windows are placed in the box. It is important to make sure that the frame is not skewed, the sashes open and close freely and clearly.
  5. After all checks, the spacer bars are removed, and the space between the casing and the box is filled with mounting foam. After drying, it will provide an airtight mount and will reliably protect your home from the cold.
  6. The last stage of work is the installation of a low tide: it will drain rainwater from the wall and prevent dampness from entering the house. The ebb is cut to the desired size and attached with self-tapping screws. The seams filled with polyurethane foam are closed with decorative platbands.

Knowing how to properly insert double-glazed windows in a wooden house, you can completely glaze the building without resorting to the help of specialists. When properly installed, plastic window structures serve for a long time and perfectly protect the building from the cold, and it is not so difficult to cope with this work.

The thickness of the mounting foam layer should be at least 2 cm, you can not save on it. For greater reliability and tightness of the connection, the space under the window sill can be smeared with a special silicone sealant. This is a good additional protection against blowing.

In any case, the mounting foam will have to be closed from sunlight: it collapses under the influence of ultraviolet rays. Carved platbands or decorative shutters will help, which can become an important element of home decoration.

All installation work is recommended to be carried out at positive temperatures. Plastic changes its structure in severe frosts: at -10 and below, it becomes brittle and can be damaged very easily. To avoid unnecessary problems, choose the right time for installation.

Installation of plastic window blocks requires increased attention to the correct angles, compliance with vertical and horizontal lines. Even a slight misalignment in the future can lead to an increased load on the fittings, which will negatively affect the operation of the entire structure. If the sashes turn out to be skewed, they will begin to creak and close poorly, and the hinges will quickly become unusable.

And once again: the installation of windows cannot be dealt with immediately after the construction of a wooden house, even if it is being built from dried lumber. It will take at least six months for the logs to finally take their places, then the installation will be safe.

Was this post helpful to you?

You can find out detailed and extended information on the topic of the article from the book "Wooden Houses", which reflects all the stages of building a house, starting with laying the foundation and ending with the installation of the roof. The price of the book = 77 rubles.

Loading...
Top