Do-it-yourself ventilation grill for a bath. Forced ventilation in the bath: ways to organize and install a good hood. Where can there be supply and exhaust openings

Ventilation in the bath is a mandatory structural element. Without full-fledged air exchange and fresh air supply, even the highest quality wooden building can completely become unusable in 2-3 years. However, even in this short period of time, bathers will have to enjoy such "charms" as dampness, unpleasant smell, lack of fresh air.

Therefore, the installation of the ventilation system must be approached with all responsibility. This is not difficult. Moreover, in most small private baths (especially with the “Russian bath” mode), natural ventilation is the most optimal. And its construction, unlike the forced analogue, will not require the installation of expensive fans. And in some baths, it is generally created "by itself" - only due to the appropriate design of the steam room.

How is the natural ventilation system arranged?

Natural ventilation is driven by air convection that occurs when there is a difference in pressure (temperature) in the room (bath) and outside.

According to the laws of physics, the heated air in the room always rises, and the cold air descends to the floor. The main task of ventilation in the bath is to ensure the flow of fresh air (cold) and displace the exhaust (warm). Therefore, when planning natural ventilation, the inlet is usually located below the exhaust. Then the warm air, rising up, goes out through the exhaust shaft. At the same time, a vacuum (reduced pressure) is created in the room and fresh cool air is drawn in through the inflow near the floor. Gradually, it warms up again, rises and displaces a portion of the exhaust air through the hood. This ensures continuous convection and natural ventilation.

As extracts in a bath with natural ventilation, air vents, vents, and a stove chimney can be used. The air flow is carried out through the crowns of the walls (in chopped baths), ajar doors, ventilation openings. Both supply and exhaust openings (air vents, vents) are provided with shutters or adjustable grilles. This helps to control the air exchange in the room and prevent drafts.

There are several options for natural ventilation. Each of them has its own advantages, special functionality and some restrictions on use.

Option 1. Volley ventilation - airing

Volley ventilation is common in small Russian baths. This is the usual ventilation, which is performed either after bathing procedures, or between entering the steam room. Volley ventilation contributes to a quick change of air, drying the surfaces of the steam room.

With burst ventilation, the role of ventilation holes is performed by a door and a window leaf located on opposite walls. To change the air, they are opened for a short time after soaring (or between visits to the steam room). Depending on which direction the pressure drop is directed, air will move from the window to the door or vice versa.

The role of salvo ventilation is to freshen the air in the steam room, but at the same time not to cool the walls. Therefore, the ventilation time is short - 1-2 minutes is enough.

Option #2. Ventilation with outflow through the chimney

A stove with a chimney can be the driving force behind ventilation. When the fuel is burned, the exhaust air is drawn into the furnace blower and exits through the chimney. In order for fresh air to flow in, a gap of about 5-10 mm is made at the bottom of the door. Or loosely close it during procedures. In log cabins, when a fire is burning in a stove, air from the street is drawn in through loosely fitted lower rims.

Ventilation through the outflow of air through the chimney is only possible while maintaining the fire in the stove. If fuel combustion is not maintained during vaping (e.g. in black-baths or short-duration ovens), no air change will be performed. A more versatile ventilation system will be required.

Option #3. Air exchange through vents

Air exchange through special vents is a universal type of natural ventilation. It allows you to gradually change the air in the steam room several times during the soaring (ideally - 5-6 times per hour). With proper planning of such ventilation, drafts and a decrease in surface temperature will not be observed.

The exhaust hole is usually arranged under the ceiling, above the top shelf. It has dimensions of 15-20 cm, it is square or round. The hood is closed with a removable plug or a sliding damper (door), with which you can change the size of the hood and the degree of air exchange.

A few more rules:

• It is undesirable to place the ventilation holes at the same level opposite each other. It is highly likely that fresh air entering the steam room will immediately fly out into the hood. This eliminates the full circulation of air, but leads to the formation of a draft.
• The linear dimensions of the hood, ideally, should match the dimensions of the inlet. Or be more. If the dimensions of the hood deviate downwards, new clean air will not enter the bath.
• If you want to increase the outflow of exhaust air, the dimensions of the hood make it larger than the supply vent. Or they arrange 2 hoods for 1 inlet.

For the influx of clean air in the steam room, an inlet is equipped, as a rule, 0.2-0.4 m from the floor surface. It can be on the same wall as the hood, or on the opposite side. It is desirable - next to the stove, so that the incoming air has time to heat up and enters the soaring zone already warm. The inlet is closed with a ventilation grill so that the air is drawn into the room in separate streams, and not in a continuous stream.

Step by step installation guide

The classic workflow is:

1. In the walls of the bath, two holes are made with transverse dimensions of 100-200 mm. It is advisable to form ducts even at the construction stage, so that later you do not have to carve them into finished walls. One hole is made behind the stove (or next to it), at a distance of 20 cm from the floor. The other is on the opposite wall, diagonally, at a distance of 20 cm from the ceiling.
2. Boxes are installed in the holes. They can be bought ready-made - made of metal or plastic. In chopped baths, it is better to use wooden boxes knocked together from boards.
3. A ventilation grill is placed on the inlet, and a valve on the exhaust. If one of the holes goes outside, an insect net is installed on the outside of the box.

But this order of work is not the only correct one - it all depends on what kind of structure you have and what duct scheme you have chosen.

Advantages and disadvantages of such a system

Among the advantages of natural ventilation, the most significant are:

• simple device and easy installation;
• low cost - natural ventilation does not require the installation of expensive forced fans;
• Efficiency in work - allows you to avoid spending on electricity;
• reliability - the absence of mechanical devices makes natural ventilation practically “eternal”, not subject to breakdowns and not in need of repairs.

There are also disadvantages:

• the dependence of the ventilation force on the temperature difference in the steam room and on the street;
• in autumn and winter, cold air coming from the supply openings lowers the temperature in the steam room, drafts may occur;
• smells from the street.

Agree, the shortcomings are insignificant. In a small bath, standing on its own site, natural ventilation is the most rational solution. If there are no pools and large washing facilities inside, there is no point in overpaying for mechanical fans (for forced air exchange). If, for some reason, natural ventilation will not cope with the functions assigned to it, you can convert it to mechanical at any time - just put fans on the holes!

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the bath - scheme

A well-equipped ventilation system, other things being equal, guarantees, firstly, a long service life of building and finishing materials involved in the arrangement of the serviced premises, and secondly, the comfort and safety of visiting the latter for the user. Particularly relevant is the issue of arranging full and sufficiently effective ventilation in the bath, due to the characteristic temperature and humidity conditions and additional requirements for such buildings.

General requirements for ventilation in the bath

Video - Requirements for ventilation in the bath

The choice of the optimal type of ventilation system for servicing a bath is a topic for many hours of discussion. For example, there is natural ventilation. The cost of money, time and effort for its arrangement is minimal - the work literally comes down to drilling holes in the walls, installing boxes / pipes and valves / gratings.

Ventilation damper and grille

Ventilation grilles for baths and saunas

However, it is impossible to use natural ventilation to serve all the premises of the bath. Of course, it would be possible to save money, but the disadvantage of such a solution will become obvious with the arrival of the first winter: along with the influx of fresh air from the street, cold will come in, and everyone knows the combination of frosty air with humidity - everything around will simply freeze. Therefore, natural ventilation in some rooms must be combined with other existing options in other rooms of the bath.

If the bath is equipped with a washing room or even a private pool, natural ventilation will definitely not cope with the maintenance of such premises - you will have to equip an exhaust system. And in general, the presence of a forced inflow / outflow of fresh air will be useful for both visitors to the bathhouse and its premises. Recommendations regarding the optimal composition of the air exchange system are given in the table.

Table. The choice of ventilation system for different rooms

Steam room, dressing room or rest room		Under aeration it is necessary to understand the organized natural air exchange. The option is most optimally suited for use in a bathhouse: air is supplied from the bottom of the stove (for other rooms - 25-30 cm above the floor), exhaust air is removed through an opening in the upper part of the room. The work of air exchange is based on elementary physical laws: cold air from the street displaces warm air masses, which have less weight, up the room. Aeration is ideal for use in rooms with high heat dissipation rates. The presence of additional moisture contributes to an even more pronounced increase in the efficiency of the system.
Wash room, bathroom, pool room		The system is equipped with a fan and, if necessary, cleaning filters. Mechanical exhaust ventilation is ideal for use in the washroom, pool room and other damp and high traffic areas of the bath. A mechanical extractor effectively removes unpleasant odors and excess moisture, which makes the air in the serviced room safe and clean. It is impossible to use only exhaust ventilation - air rarefaction is formed. To compensate for the rarefaction, air is supplied from the street or other rooms. Along with this, the presence of forced ventilation will eliminate the likelihood of drafts. The supply ventilation system can be either natural or mechanical. In combination with mechanical exhaust ventilation, it is more expedient to use a mechanical supply system, because. the potential for natural inflow may ultimately be insufficient to compensate for the resulting rarefaction. At the heart of mechanical supply ventilation is a blower fan. Additionally, it can be equipped with an air heater, which will eliminate the inconvenience and solve the problems of ventilation of the serviced premises during the cold season. Additionally, the supplied air can be humidified or purified using appropriate devices. The mechanical system is more complex in arrangement compared to its analog, which works according to the laws of physics: in addition to fans and air ducts, the system may include additional equipment and devices (diffusers, air distribution grilles, automation equipment, silencers, etc.). This gives an excellent opportunity to arrange an air exchange system that fully meets the wishes of the user.

In vestibules, warehouses and other premises of a similar purpose, a natural hood is made.

Regardless of the type of ventilation system chosen, the bath must have conditions for simple ventilation. Install adjustable windows in all rooms, the location of which allows this.

Video - Types of ventilation systems

Instructions for self-calculation of air exchange

For the calculation, an elementary formula is used:

W (required volume of fresh / exhaust air) \u003d k (coefficient indicating the frequency of air exchange) x V (volume of the serviced room, determined by multiplying the width of the room by the length and height).

That is, first you must calculate the volume of each room and find for it the required indicator of the volume of clean air (in calculations it is customary to denote Wpr, i.e. inflow) and a similar indicator of exhaust air (indicated as Wvt, outflow). In this case, multiplicity factors must be taken into account. The calculated values ​​are rounded up - the last digit in the number must be 0 or 5.

Next, the summation of all Wpr is performed. A similar action is carried out for the found Wvt. The amounts received are compared. If the total value of Wpr exceeds the total indicator Wpr, it is necessary to increase the exhaust volume for rooms with a minimum air exchange value, if vice versa, increase the inflow by the missing value. That is, at the output, the sum of all Wpr should be equal to the total value of the found Wvt.

The results of the calculations will allow you to determine the optimal cross-sections of the installed air ducts and choose the appropriate type of ventilation system. Thus, with the calculation of the volume of premises and other related data, there will be no particular problems. For greater convenience of subsequent processing, enter the found values ​​in a simple table, as in the example presented.

In the given example, the total value of Wpr is less than the sum of all found Wvt by an indicator equal to 110 m3. In order for the balance to be maintained as a result, it is necessary to ensure the flow of clean air in the missing amount. This can only be done in the waiting room. Thus, the value of 55 m3 for the dressing room, given in the table, must be replaced with an indicator of 165 m3. Then the balance will be struck.

Proceed to the calculation of the installed air ducts and the drawing up of the structure of the equipped ventilation system.

The ventilation system is designed in such a way that the air moves through the installed air ducts with the following speed indicators:

• ≤ 5 m/s in main channels and ≤3 m/s in existing branches - for mechanical ventilation systems;
• ≤ 1 m/s - for air exchanges operating according to the natural principle;
• 2 m/s - for natural air exchange directly in the steam room.

When choosing the cross-section of air ducts, consider the above indicators. As for the profile of the box / pipe, this moment is determined by the design features of the air exchange and the bath itself. For example, air ducts with a circular cross section are easier to install than their rectangular counterparts, and it is much easier to select the required connecting fittings for round air ducts.

The relationship between the diameter of the air ducts and other significant indicators is shown in the following tables.

For example, we will work with round ducts. We select the necessary sections according to the corresponding table, focusing, at the same time, on the indicators of the table An example of calculating ventilation.

Estimated air consumption is 165 m3/hour. The air flow at this flow rate should not move faster than 5 m/s. In accordance with the table above for round ducts, we select the section according to the specified data. The tabular value closest to ours is 221 m3/h. Air duct cross section - 125 mm.

Air duct with insulation Flexible ducts

In the same order, we determine the optimal sections for all branches of the system in the serviced premises, remembering that in them the air flow should move at a speed not exceeding 3 m / s (in vestibules and closets - 1 m / s, in the steam room - 2 m / s). sec):

• steam room: calculated Ww is 60 m3 / h, which requires the installation of an air duct with a cross section of 125 mm;
• shower room - Ww is 50 m3 / h, air moves at a speed of 3 m / s, a 100 mm air duct is suitable;
• toilet - the indicators are similar to the shower room;
• pantry, vestibule, etc. - indicators (except for the speed of air movement) are similar to the shower and toilet.

Important! In the shower room (washing room, room with a pool), an increased level of humidity is noted. When determining the cross-section of the duct for this room, it is necessary to make an upward adjustment (in this example, 125 mm).

For greater convenience, enter all the information received in the table. As an example, you can use the template below.

Important note! In the table above, the extract volume exceeds the clean air supply. This happened because the sections were determined by the nearest flow rate, and the diameter of the air duct in the washing room was deliberately increased. In practice, such an approach will only benefit - the margin for outflow and inflow will not be superfluous.

SNiP 2.08.01-89. Residential buildings. Download file

SNiP 2.08.01-89

Sanitary and epidemiological requirements for residential buildings and premises. Sanitary and epidemiological rules and regulations SanPiN 2.1.2.1002-00. Download file

SanPiN 2.1.2.1002-00

Building codes and regulations of the Russian Federation heating, ventilation and air conditioning heating, ventilation and conditioning SNiP 41-01-2003. Download file

SNiP 41-01-2003 (Heating, ventilation and air conditioning)

The cross-sectional area of ​​the ventilation window is determined in accordance with the volume of the served room: 24 cm2 for every 1 m3.

It remains to figure out only the optimal height of the ventilation holes:

• for the influx of fresh air - an average of 25-30 cm above the floor (in the steam room - near the stove);
• for the outflow of exhaust air - about 15-20 cm below the ceiling, as a rule, on the wall opposite to the supply air.

Popular bath ventilation schemes

Separate consideration deserves only options for arranging ventilation in the steam room - in the rest of the rooms everything is done according to the standard scheme, for example, like this:

Air exchange in the steam room can be organized in accordance with 4 main schemes presented in the following image.

Scheme "a". The most popular option. The window for air flow is next to the stove, at a distance of about 25-30 cm from the floor. The incoming clean air gradually displaces the exhausted warm upwards to the opposite wall. On it, about 15-25 cm below the ceiling, there is an exhaust hole.

Scheme "b". Both holes are on the same wall. The circuit will only work if an exhaust fan is installed. Fresh air enters through the lower opening, equipped in the wall opposite to the stove. The air will rush in the direction of the stove, and then, covering the space of the steam room with an arc, move to the hood and be discharged outside the bath.

Scheme "in". The option is suitable for steam rooms with a leaky floor. The inlet opening is located as in scheme "a". After warming up in the upper part of the steam room, the air descends to the floor, passes through the gaps in the boardwalk, contributing to more efficient drying of the boards, and then is removed through the exhaust hole, usually equipped in another room. Also, the hood can be carried out through a separate insulated channel.

Scheme "g". Option for baths with a constantly working stove. In this case, the function of the hood is performed by the blower hole of the furnace. The supply window is arranged under the shelf, in the wall opposite to the furnace. The height of the inlet must correspond to the height of the furnace blower. Fresh air rushes to the stove, displacing the air masses heated by it to the ceiling. Cooling down there, the air descends and is removed from the bath through the blower.

In order for the operation of the air exchange system to be as efficient and high-quality as possible, before starting its installation, study and remember a few simple tips.

If your bath has a bathroom or even a kitchen, equip them only with exhaust ventilation - this solution will eliminate the possibility of unpleasant odors spreading to other rooms. Alternatively, you can equip other rooms with forced ventilation, and equip the bathrooms with a natural exhaust - in this case, the air will move towards the bathrooms.

When calculating the performance of fans, it is recommended to reduce the total capacity of the supply units by 5-10% of the total performance of the exhaust units. In this case, the exhaust air will be completely displaced by the incoming air masses, and a 5-10% margin will compensate for the inflow of air entering through windows, slots, etc., which will allow you to maintain a balance.

In rooms with only natural ventilation, it is recommended to definitely make opening windows - this will increase the efficiency of fresh air intake and reduce the risk of fungi, mold, rot, etc.

Important! If your bath has a non-standard configuration, the ventilation system project will also be individual. When compiling it, the features of the composition of the premises, their design, design features, etc. should be taken into account.

The main stages of independent arrangement of the ventilation system

Any ventilation system in any room is equipped in approximately the same sequence. Differences are present only in the characteristics of the air vents and their locations, as well as the configuration of the system (mechanical, unlike natural ones, are supplemented by various kinds of devices).

For example, the following arrangement of ventilation elements can be used.

Or its somewhat modified counterpart, shown in the following image.

Recommendations regarding the choice of the location of each opening, the type of air exchange system for different rooms of the bath, as well as the procedure for determining the characteristics of the ventilation elements, were considered earlier.

Along with this, the procedure for arranging ventilation may vary depending on which design option you prefer. There are few solutions available:

• independent ventilation in each room. An easier option. Work is limited to the installation of transoms, vents, fans and other necessary elements, if provided for by the project. Fans can be mounted both in windows and in separate channels brought outside through the wall;
• centralized system. More difficult option. Requires ventilation ducts. It is used mainly in private homes - in the case of a bath, this option will be too costly and time-consuming;
• "hybrid" option. Some rooms are ventilated individually, some are combined into a joint system.

A reasonable option for use in a bath is independent ventilation - the owner can choose the optimal characteristics of fans and other elements for each room, saving money, time and effort on the activities necessary to combine the channels into a single system.

Important! The location of some bath rooms may not allow to equip independent supply and exhaust ventilation. In this case, it will not be possible to avoid laying ventilation ducts. Alternatively, the boxes can be placed in the attic, and the ventilation holes can be arranged in the ceiling or connected to the channels equipped in the walls (the option is more complicated if the laying of such channels was not provided for by the project at the construction stage of the bath).

In most cases, the first option is used: ventilation pipes of the required length are led out through openings in the ceilings of the serviced premises and either equipped with their own fan, if necessary (easier to implement for an unprepared user, the procedure is similar to that given in the following table), or connected into a single circuit and connected to a common hood (may require the involvement of specialists).

Remember: the maximum efficiency of the ventilation system is ensured by using as short and straight air ducts as possible - up to 3 m with natural air exchange and up to 6 m with electric fans.

The procedure for arranging an independent ventilation system is given in the following table.

Important! The example considers instructions for arranging a mechanical ventilation system using fans. The order of installation of natural air exchange remains almost the same: only the stages of laying wires and installing fans are excluded.

Table. Arrangement of ventilation

Stage of workExplanations

	The operating procedure remains the same for the supply and exhaust openings. Only the height of their arrangement and location change (possible options were considered earlier), as well as the type of fans used (supply or exhaust). The characteristics of the latter are selected on an individual basis, taking into account the volume of the serviced premises, the required air velocity in the air ducts, the required air exchange rate, etc. - all these moments were consecrated in the theoretical part. We equip the holes in the following order: - we outline the center and contours. We make the markup so that the diameter of the hole as a result slightly (usually a 2-3 mm gap is made) exceeds the diameter of the installed pipe (recommendations for choosing the diameters of the ducts were given earlier); - Using a perforator, make a hole in accordance with the markings. We hold the working tool horizontally, but with a slight downward slope; - carefully take out the cut material (a hammer and a chisel will help us with this), after which we carefully clean the finished hole from dirt and dust.
	The ventilation pipe (ventilation duct housing) is placed in the prepared hole, but before that it (if mechanical / forced ventilation is planned) must be equipped with a fan. Useful recommendation! Initially, buy ready-made kits for arranging ventilation, including, in addition to related accessories, a ventilation duct / pipe and a fan with an appropriately sized case - this way you will avoid difficulties during the assembly phase. The pipe with the fan is placed in the prepared hole, and the remaining gaps are filled with mounting foam.
	The fan is an electrical appliance, therefore, it must be connected to the mains. Let's do this while the mounting foam dries (at least 10-12 hours). The procedure is standard: - the contours of the strobe for the cable are cut out in the wall using a grinder. Excess material is removed using a chipper; - a hole is prepared in the wall for installing the switch box (for example, you can use a puncher). The box is installed (pre-read the instructions specifically for your switch). The switch itself will be mounted after finishing; - the wire is laid in a strobe. We use alabaster to fix the cable; - connect the wire to the switch and fan. We must first study the connection diagram recommended by the fan manufacturer in the attached instructions, because. it may differ for different devices. For example, one of the most commonly used schemes is given.
	It remains only to bring the whole structure into its proper form. To do this, we do the following: - get rid of excess dried mounting foam with a knife; - putty strobes; - we mount adjustable ventilation grilles on both sides of the pipe. For fastening we use self-tapping screws. If provided, we install additional elements at the appropriate stages of work (for example, an air heater, a filter, etc.). Each of these devices is mounted individually - we first clarify these points in the manufacturer's instructions.

Video - Arrangement of ventilation holes

Video - Do-it-yourself ventilation in the bath - diagram

State norms for ventilation of premises are regulated by SNiP 41-01-2003, the document establishes the minimum frequency of air exchange in rooms, depending on their purpose and features of use. In residential areas, ventilation must perform two tasks - to provide favorable indicators of the percentage of oxygen in the air and to remove exhaust gases.

SNiP 41-01-2003. Heating, ventilation and air conditioning. Download file

SNiP 41–01–2003

For a bath, ventilation tasks become more complicated, it must additionally remove moist air as quickly as possible (fast drying of wooden structures is ensured) and regulate the temperature in the steam room. There are cases when it is necessary to quickly reduce the temperature in the steam room before taking procedures by small children, the elderly or large people. The stove continues to give off heat for a long time, it takes a very long time to wait until the bath cools down on its own. With the help of room ventilation, you can quickly set the desired temperature and maintain it within the specified limits all the time people stay in it.

What are the types of ventilation and the method of their calculation

Ventilation can only exist when there is an inflow of fresh air and an outflow of used air into the room. Often you can find the concept of "supply" or "exhaust" ventilation. These are not quite correct concepts, there cannot be only supply or only exhaust ventilation, it is always only flow-exhaust. Why are these terms used? Thus, it is emphasized that the supply or exhaust of exhaust air is carried out in a forced way, and, accordingly, the removal or supply of fresh air occurs in a natural way.

When calculating the parameters of ventilation systems, the initial data take into account the volume and purpose of the premises, the presence of special conditions in them in terms of air indicators, the presence or likelihood of the presence of carbon monoxide or other chemical compounds harmful to health. Based on these data, state regulations establish the frequency of air replacement within an hour, it can vary from 1 ÷ 2 to ten or more.

Next, engineers determine the parameters and location of the channels to ensure the necessary intake and removal of air, taking into account weather conditions and the climatic zone. If natural ventilation cannot provide the required frequency of air changes, then forced systems are used that supply / exhaust air with electric fans. Baths have their own characteristics of each type of ventilation, consider them in more detail.

General rules for ventilation in the bath

The principles of the ventilation device in the bath largely depend on the architectural features of its design. If the floors have slots for draining water, then supply air can also be supplied through the same slots, there is no need to make a special hole.

Quite often, small windows are installed in the bath - when opened, they “turn” into exhaust holes. In addition, if the furnace firebox is located directly in the steam room, the room can be ventilated even easier - open the firebox and, by changing the position of the damper, adjust the air change rate.

These are the simplest options for a steam room (by the way, the most efficient and low-cost ones), but there are cases when the furnace firebox is located in another room, there is no window, and the floors are solid without gaps. It is on such a bath that we will focus in our article. Why do you need to do ventilation in the bath?

1. For better mixing of air throughout the volume. Natural convection of air masses is not able to equalize the air temperature along the height, the difference in indicators under the ceiling and near the floor can reach tens of degrees. This negatively affects the comfort of taking water procedures.
2. For the supply of fresh air. If one person is steamed in the steam room, and the residence time does not exceed 20 ÷ 30 minutes, then the oxygen concentration in the air will not have time to drop to critical values. And if several people steam at the same time in the steam room for a long time, then the influx of fresh air becomes mandatory.

Quite often, developers fall into two extremes: in order to save heat, they generally refuse ventilation or make it too strong and unregulated. Both extremes have negative consequences, ventilation should not be neglected, it is cheap, and the positive effect is very impressive. But it should be done correctly, taking into account the features of the premises, the requirements for the temperature in the steam room, the materials for the manufacture of walls and cladding.

In the event of a complete lack of ventilation, the risks of oxygen starvation increase and, if the furnace firebox is located directly in the steam room, carbon monoxide poisoning. In the case of strong unregulated ventilation, the heating time increases significantly, warm air is quickly removed from the room. But that's not all the problems - the rapid removal of warm air automatically causes an equally rapid influx of fresh air - the floors will always be very cold, and this increases the risk of colds.

Uncontrolled ventilation is fraught with cold floors

The influx of fresh air in the steam room is arranged in two places: behind the stove or under the sun loungers.

There are many air movement patterns on the Internet, most of them are made by amateurs, you should not pay attention to them. Follow only two conditions: air inflow at the bottom, exhaust at the top, placement of channels diagonally across the room.

This is quite enough to ensure normal circulation and air mixing. Everything else is reasoning about nothing, they can only confuse inexperienced developers, significantly complicate the ventilation system, make it expensive and unreliable. There are options with two multi-level exhaust valves, with two supply valves, etc. The air outlets are located at different heights.

One under the very ceiling, is used only for complete ventilation of the bath after the completion of water procedures. The second is done 30 ÷ 40 centimeters below the first and is used during washing. Some craftsmen connect them together with internal air ducts, install several control dampers, etc. We assure you that these complications do not have any visible effect on the comfort of staying in the steam room.

A few words should be said about the ventilation ducts in the bath, they are often suggested to be used in steam rooms. In large buildings, ventilation ducts are used to connect several different rooms to a common ventilation system, no matter if it is natural or forced. This is quite justified from both technological and economic points of view.

And what other rooms can be connected to the steam room with ventilation ducts? Weird question. Then why make complex channels under the wall sheathing? Wouldn't it be easier to make ordinary holes in the walls and insert ordinary pieces of pipes and grates with elementary valves into them? Of course, we will talk about a real, effective, simple and cheap way to install ventilation, we will not lay any channels anywhere. This is a universal option, perfect for both "budget" and expensive exclusive pairs.

Video - Ventilation in the bath

Natural ventilation of the bath

The most accepted option for most baths, minimal in cost and safety, and quite effective. The specific location of the ventilation openings should be taken into account, taking into account the size of the premises, the location of the shelves, the stove and the material of the building. The general rule is that the holes should be located at different heights, as a rule, the inlet (supply) 20 cm from the floor and the outlet (exhaust) 20÷30 cm from the ceiling. When choosing holes, you need to consider where the holes will be located on the outer walls. It is desirable that they do not stand out too much on the facade walls.

The dimensions of the holes are approximately 300÷400 cm2, it is better to make them larger than smaller. In case of too rapid air exchange, leading to a decrease in the temperature in the steam room, the channels should be covered with control dampers. To improve the appearance, it is better to use decorative grilles, they can be purchased at specialized stores or made independently.

Somewhat complicates the ventilation system, requires the installation of electrical equipment. Another problem is related to the microclimate in the steam room. There, high temperature and humidity are the main enemies of any electrical equipment. Fans must have a reliable protection of the housing from moisture; during connection, the recommendations of the Electrical Installation Code must be strictly observed. And in order to comply, you need to know them.

The advantages of forced ventilation - the rate of air change in the room is significantly accelerated, the control parameters are expanded. Natural ventilation is very dependent on weather conditions, in some cases it can become ineffective. Especially if the wind is at right angles to the exhaust vent. Forced ventilation works with the same efficiency in any weather and regardless of the direction and strength of the wind.

How to make ventilation in the bath with your own hands

Initial data. The architectural features of the bath do not provide for air to enter through the cracks in the floor, doors, windows or the furnace. It is necessary to make holes for both entry and exit of air. There is no internal and external wall cladding, the bathhouse is built of sawn timber.

Step 1. Decide on the location of the input and output channels.

We have already mentioned that it is better to place the inlet channel near the stove at a distance of about 20 centimeters from the floor level. Exit channel diagonally under the ceiling. This position of the inlet and outlet openings will ensure the distribution of air flows throughout the volume of the room. Also, the inlet air will not cool the flooring. Channels should be easily accessible. There are recommendations to make an exit hole in the ceiling. We are opponents of such a decision, humid air will certainly cause great damage to the entire truss system.

Step 2 Purchase or make your own grates and valves.

They can be of various sizes and geometric shapes: round, square or rectangular. At the same time, take into account the materials of the future cladding of external and internal walls, consider how the decorative grilles will be attached to them.

Important. Be sure to install grilles with adjustable gaps, only they can provide smooth adjustment of the frequency of air changes in the room.

And one more thing - from the outside of the bath, the holes should also be closed. Moreover, the closure should be as airtight as possible, to prevent moisture from rain or snow from getting on the log house crowns.

Step 3 Make holes in the walls.

The most time-consuming operation, you have to work manually. Pre-in the marked places, you need to drill holes around the perimeter. The closer they are to each other, the easier it is to gouge the wood later. When the holes are drilled, take a chisel, a chisel and a hammer in your hands and begin to destroy the timber bridges remaining between the holes. Ventilation holes should be made 1-2 cm around the perimeter more than the inserted pipe. The fact is that then this pipe must be insulated to prevent the appearance of condensate on wooden structures.

Use only a sharp chisel and a chisel - the timber will have to be cut across the fibers, this is quite difficult. If the thickness of the beam is 20 centimeters, then it is better to make half the depth of the hole from the inside of the bath, and the second half from the outside. If you have extensive experience using a gasoline saw, then you can cut a hole. But we immediately warn you that it is very dangerous to work with a gasoline saw in such conditions. You will have to cut with the end of the tire, while grabbing the tree with the lower part of the chain, the saw will be pulled out of your hands. This way of using the saw is strictly prohibited by safety regulations, remember this.

If there is a need to dilute the inlet in the wall and in the bath, then buy a pipe with an elbow. It is advisable to use not round pipes, but rectangular ones, they take up less space under the lining of the inner walls of the steam room.

Be sure to seal the joints of the elbow and pipe with silicone and wrap with adhesive tape for reliability.

Scotch metallized

Step 4 Lay foil or polyethylene film and mineral wool around the perimeter of the holes, the wool layer should be dense, without gaps. It will not be possible to make the edges of the hole absolutely even, carefully make sure that the waterproofing is not damaged by the sharp protrusions of the timber.

Step 5 Insert the pipes into the holes in the log house. They should enter with little effort, quite tightly. In order to increase the reliability of sealing and fastening, be sure to walk around the perimeter of the hole and pipe with foam. Mounting foam eliminates all invisible gaps in thermal insulation between the pipe and the wall and firmly fixes it in the desired position.

We recommend foaming the holes and after wall cladding, the foam will eliminate the gaps between the wall and the vapor barrier. During the expansion of the foam, the vapor barrier will press tightly around the uneven hole, all possible small damages will automatically close.

The pipe to the hood may not be insulated, warm air comes out through it. But we advise, just in case, to do all the operations for her. First, you will lose a little time and money. Secondly, you will make additional and reliable protection against penetration of atmospheric moisture to wooden structures.

When both holes are prepared, you can start upholstering the walls and install decorative grilles with adjustable throughput parameters.

Important. We strongly advise you to ventilate the space between the wall cladding and the aluminum foil during the installation of steam room ventilation. The work is performed according to the above algorithm with one difference. Ventilation should be either permanently closed (during the adoption of water procedures) or permanently open (during the airing of the bath). Using foil as a wall vapor barrier has many benefits. But there is one problem - the difficulty of removing condensate between the skin and insulation. An ordinary hole solves all problems and completely eliminates damage to wood.

Video - DIY ventilation

How to make a hole in a log house with a crown

If you do not want to make holes for ventilation by hand, you can drill them with a special metal crown. They are sold in stores and are inexpensive. The only problem is that the crown requires a powerful low-speed drill or a hand-held drilling machine; ordinary drills can quickly fail due to a heavy load. Another limitation is that the maximum diameter of crowns is rarely more than 120 mm. But for most baths, small volumes of this size are enough.

Step 1. Choose a drill bit of the appropriate diameter and secure it in the chuck. Mark the drilling site.

Step 2 To lighten the cutting force, be sure to lubricate the bit with machine oil. Lubrication should be repeated periodically. Once the bit is about two-thirds deep, stop drilling, remove the bit and re-lubricate its inner and outer surfaces.

Step 3 Mark the center of the hole with any thin drill. Insert a crown into a shallow hole and start drilling the timber.

Step 4 Drill as long as the bit height allows. Carefully monitor the operation of the electric tool, do not allow heavy loads. Loads are regulated by the force of pressing the crown to the bar.

Step 5. The crown does not work further - take it out and gradually remove the cut wood with a chisel or chisel. It is removed quickly, start gradually chipping holes in the corners. Don't cut the log across the grain with the chisel, only chip it along the grain, it's much easier to do the job.

Repeat the steps until the hole is through. If the timber is so thick that the drill cannot go through it on one side, go to the other. To do this, you need to find the center of the already made hole as accurately as possible. The crown has its own centering drill, but its length may not always be enough to reach the reverse side. You will have to find the center yourself. To do this, install a thin wood drill in the drill, insert it into the existing hole from the center drill of the crown and very carefully make a through hole. The more precisely you drill the center, the easier and faster it will be to work on the other side of the wall.

Video - How to drill a hole with a crown

Bath ventilation with heating

A rather original way of arranging ventilation, not only fresh air lends itself to the bath, it is immediately heated. This is very important in winter, as it is possible not only to increase the comfort of your stay, but also to speed up the heating of the premises and save firewood.

The air intake is made at the bottom of the bath and is fed into the air intake duct with the help of electric fans.

The stove has a metal chimney, a special screen is installed around the chimney, air from the duct enters the screen channels. The screen performs two functions: it protects the limbs from burns and serves as a radiator for heating the air coming from the duct. The heated air exits the screen into the steam room.

If desired, you can slightly improve the design. Install a tee with a damper on the air duct. This will allow you to take both air from the bathhouse and from the street - the possibilities for regulating the parameters of the microclimate in the room are significantly expanded.

Video - Ventilation in a steam room with heated air

Why is ventilation needed in a Russian bath? Let's take a simple example: a person is steaming, there is hot steam around him and he breathes it. Oxygen is exhaled and carbon dioxide is constantly inhaled - and if there is no influx of fresh air in such an environment, the vacationer can simply burn out. That is, if there is no ventilation, the bath becomes simply life-threatening, which is why there are so many subtleties in the technical rules for the operation of the bath. Yes, sometimes you can hear from experienced craftsmen that ventilation in a brick bath, for example, is not needed - but this is not about the fact that fresh air is not needed in the steam room, but that sometimes natural ventilation is enough in the bath, and she doesn't need a forced one.

So, how to make ventilation in the bath - we are looking for an answer together with the Stroy-Banya.com portal.

General rules for planning bath ventilation

The ventilation system in the bath itself has two main tasks: to deliver fresh air during the procedures and to ensure fast and high-quality drying of the bath rooms after them. And both options should be thought out and implemented.

And here is what ventilation should not do:

• Violate the temperature regime of the bath with an influx of fresh air.
• It is wrong to stratify temperature flows - i.e. it can be cool only near the floor, but not on the shelf where a steamed person sits.
• To remove from the steam room the wrong air - not exhausted, in which there is the most carbon dioxide.

Also, the lack of fresh air will invariably lead to the appearance of an unpleasant smell in the bath - and it is difficult to get rid of it. Yes, the air filled with mold and fungus spores is not the most healing for a resting person.

In total, ventilation in the bath is provided by the following types:

• Natural, when the entire air flow occurs due to the pressure difference between the street and the room.
• Mechanical - when both the temperature and the air supply are monitored by devices.
• Combined, when pressure is artificially created using a fan.

And in the bath itself, not only inflow is needed, but also outflow - and this is already done with the help of a box, which is always located diagonally from the supply channel.

Ventilation is vital not only in a stuffy steam room - but also in the shower room, in the locker room and even in the rest room. Just initially you need to decide which of its types is suitable for a particular bath.

The floors in the bath should also be ventilated - because they are constantly in contact with water, which can lead to their destruction. If this is not done, they will have to be changed at least once every 5 years. Therefore, in order to extend their service life, it is important to do the following:

1. Initially, even during the laying of the foundation, it is necessary to ensure the ventilation of the floors - to make small vents on opposite sides of the basement.
2. It is necessary to leave two more ventilation holes near the opposite walls of the steam room - for fresh air. And so that a rodent does not accidentally enter the bath, these windows are usually closed with bars.
3. During the installation of the stove, it is important to make sure that the level of the finished floor is slightly higher than the blower - then it will work as a hood.
4. Boards should be laid so that there are gaps between them from 0.5 to 1 cm.
5. At the end of the bath procedures, the floors must be dried well - every time.

You can also make ventilation “according to Bast” in the bathhouse: arrange an influx of fresh air under the stove, and exhaust from the ceiling directly opposite the door in the corner. For this, a special exhaust box is used - it can be made from a board and sheathed inside with foil

Correct direction of air flow

Under the floor, the veterinary duct must be made directly right at the metal sheet - it is he who protects the floors from fire. And the size of the box itself should not exceed the diameter of the chimney by 20%. In general, such a system is good - it is easy to regulate the flow of fresh air from the street, but the unpleasant smell no longer penetrates into the steam room.

If the firebox is located directly in the steam room, then this option is the most rational. Of course, the design turns out to be more complicated - after all, two boxes already need to be installed in it: one to ensure the convection of air masses, the second - to burn firewood. And the channels themselves can be placed directly in the brick podium - if the furnace is installed.

5 popular device schemes to choose from

But the ventilation in the steam room should be thought out especially carefully - otherwise there will be no comfort from pleasant procedures. And you can provide it in different ways:

Option number 1. The inlet is located behind the stove, half a meter from the floor, while the outlet is on the opposite side, at a height of 30 cm. A fan is installed in it for forced air movement. In this option, the air warms up evenly - cool streams heat up from the furnace and go up, where they cool down and go down. There they are already brought out through the exhaust hole. And the lower it is, the stronger the air flow will be.

Option number 2. Both vents are on the same wall - opposite the stove. But the input is at the bottom, 30 cm from the floor, and the output is at the top, 30 cm from the ceiling. Here, a fan is also placed in the outlet. But the flow pattern is somewhat different: cold air enters the steam room, hits the stove, heats up and rushes up - into the hood and out.

Option number 3. In this method, the inlet is behind the stove, at a height of 20 cm from the floor, and the outlet is at the same height, but on the opposite side. And here, too, a fan is placed. The whole system is quite simple: cold air enters the steam room, passes through the stove and is pulled out with the help of a fan.

Option number 4. This option is ideal for a steam room with floors where there are gaps for water to flow out. The inlet behind the stove at a height of 30 cm from the floor, the air that has cooled down, goes down and penetrates through the floor, and then through the ventilation pipe is discharged into the street.

Option number 5. This method is for those baths where the stove is constantly working. The inlet is opposite the stove, 30 cm from the floor, and the chimney and the firebox with a blower act as an exhaust hood.

If you need to raise the temperature in the steam room or increase the amount or saturation of steam, then it will be enough to close the inlets with plugs. And after the end of the procedures - remove the plugs. And it's easier than pressing the buttons on some remote control to a complex and expensive ventilation system. This is how the ventilation of the bath is done with your own hands - nothing complicated!

Ventilation is needed in all rooms, the rules for its installation are prescribed in SNiP 41-01-2003. But they concern only residential, public and industrial premises in which conditions favorable for a person are created. At the same time, it is taken into account that people stay in such premises for a long period of time and for everyone it is necessary to create the same standard indicators of the microclimate and air quality.

Baths have completely different tasks, they create a stressful microclimate for the body - high temperatures (in Russian baths up to + 60 ° C, in saunas over + 100 ° C) and high humidity (up to 90%). Moreover, in one room, the temperature and humidity indicators should vary widely, depending on the wishes of the washers. Changing the microclimate parameters should be carried out as soon as possible, and the achieved values ​​should be maintained for a relatively long period of time. And another very important difference between the bath and ordinary rooms. If, secondly, people have the opportunity to “protect themselves” from temporary inconveniences with clothes, then this is impossible to do in the baths.

Based on these features, the ventilation of baths must perform individual tasks, and this affects the principles of its design and features of operation. Ventilation in the bath can be natural and forced, each type has its own characteristics, characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. In this article, we will talk in detail about only one type of ventilation - natural.

Types of natural ventilation baths

We have already found out the tasks of bath ventilation and how it differs from the ventilation of other rooms, now it's time to tell you how they can be achieved. The methods depend on the architectural features of the room and your preferences.

First you need to remember the lessons of physics from school. Ventilation of premises occurs due to the difference in air density in the street and in the room. Warm air has less weight and rises, cold air is heavier and sinks down, so-called convection occurs. Accordingly, in order for the room to be ventilated, hot air must be able to leave, and cold air must be allowed to enter, inlet and outlet openings are needed. These can be ordinary cracks in windows and doors or specially made ventilation holes.

On the Internet, you can find statements that these holes must necessarily have the same dimensions, otherwise the ventilation does not work or “blowing in the wrong direction”. Only those who skipped classes can say that. The ratio of the size of the inlet and outlet of air does not affect the performance of ventilation.

Square ventilation window

If the outlet, for example, can release only 1 m3 of warm air per hour, then exactly the same amount will get into the cold room, no matter what the dimensions of the inlet, and vice versa. And the effect of reverse thrust is obtained in the case of wind backwater or in the complete absence of fresh air. In the first case, a strong external wind "drives" the air into the room, in the second case, after the air leaves the room, a small vacuum is formed, which draws the air back into the room. This is not to say that ventilation is completely absent, it just becomes cyclical and works on a back-to-back basis. Of course, the efficiency of such ventilation approaches zero, the air moves a little only near the holes.

And with these phenomena it is clear, now we will consider specific types of natural ventilation of the bath. Let's start with the simplest ones and work our way up to the more complex ones.

The simplest, but also the least effective way of ventilation.

In the steam room, a door opens or a door and a window open at the same time - ventilation occurs quickly, but not in the way we would like. Why?

Steam is removed from the bath, and this has negative consequences.

Bottom line - ventilation is not the method of ventilation that should be used all the time. This is an extreme method, it is recommended to resort to it only in case of urgent need.

This method can be considered more successful, but it is possible only in one case - the furnace of the sauna stove is located in the steam room. Warm air is removed through the firebox and chimney; it can enter through floor cracks, an ajar window or door. Sometimes a special hole is made in the lower part of the door leaf; to improve the design, it is closed with a decorative grille.

Benefits of ventilating a bath with a stove.

There are, of course, disadvantages, we will name the main ones.

1. Insufficient performance. It will not be possible to quickly change the temperature or humidity in the steam room.
2. The presence of "dead" zones. Mixing of air throughout the volume does not occur, there are zones with drafts and zones with stagnant air.
3. Dependence of draft (ventilation) on weather conditions.

Despite some disadvantages, this method of ventilation in combination with ordinary ventilation is very often used in "budget" baths.

For a budget steam room, the best option is to ventilate the stove and ventilate

Airing the bath with a stove - scheme

The best option for ventilation devices for most baths.

Advantages:

Important. It is desirable to think over the ventilation device even before the start of the construction of the bath. Solve questions with the specific placement of holes and their overall dimensions. We advise you to make the height of the ducts no more than the height of the beam, and to adjust the length of the holes.

Why is it better to provide ventilation at the construction stage?

Variants of placement and sizes of ventilation products

There are a few general rules for all natural ventilation products. Firstly, in order to improve the efficiency of the system, the cold air inlets should be located at the bottom of about 20 centimeters from the floor level. The exit holes should be placed at the maximum height - under the ceiling or on the ceiling. Secondly, the mixing of different layers of air in the volume of the steam room is improved if the inlet and outlet are located at the maximum distance from each other, preferably along the diagonal of the room. Where are they recommended to be installed?

It can be done at the bottom of the steam room door leaf.

Advantages - there is no need to make an extra hole in the wall of the bath. This saves time and effort, in addition, the possibility of getting wet of the lower rims of the log house is excluded. The disadvantage is that in most cases the doors are located opposite the shelves for taking bath procedures, cold air flows appear, creating a number of inconveniences.

Under the shelf

Advantages - the inlet is imperceptible, cold air flows are well mixed with warm air throughout the volume. The disadvantage is that access to the grate for opening / closing the damper is more difficult. If during washing it is possible to regulate the intensity of ventilation only with the help of the upper grate, then after airing the baths, both should be closed. And this means that after some time you will have to visit the steam room specifically to close the vent.

Important. The dampers on the ventilation openings must be installed two for each - outside and inside the steam room. After airing the baths, both should be closed. Choose a grille installation technology that guarantees complete tightness of the external dampers. It is strictly forbidden to get atmospheric moisture on the crowns of the log house.

Behind the oven.

The best option. Cold air from the street hits the stove, warms up a little and breaks into several separate and low-speed flows. Drafts are completely eliminated. Disadvantages - it is not always possible to install decorative grilles in this place. If the stove is close to the wall, then the high temperature adversely affects the plastic or wooden materials of the decorative grille. In addition, according to safety regulations, such places behind the stove must be insulated with sheet metal using thermal insulation.

Doesn't fit your particular case? No problem, make a hole where you see fit.

As for the outlet, there are fewer problems with its placement. Our only advice - do not do it in the ceiling. Waterlogged air cannot be taken out to the attic, it will cause constant wetting of the wooden elements of the truss system, and its premature repair always costs a pretty penny. To protect the rafters, moist air will have to be brought to the roof. Why make an additional hole in the coating, why worsen the tightness of the roof coating with your own hands and at your own expense?

Dimensions of openings for natural ventilation

The technology for calculating the dimensions of ventilation openings is indicated in the current regulations. Determining the size of vents for natural ventilation is much more difficult than for forced ventilation - there are too many factors beyond the control of people. The main performance parameter of the ventilation system is the frequency of air changes. For residential premises, the minimum value of the multiplicity is regulated, while both the temperature in the rooms and the temperature outside are taken into account. The temperature in residential premises fluctuates within insignificant limits, which simplifies the work of designers.

In pairs, the situation is much more complicated - the temperature and humidity indicators vary over a very wide range. In addition, the rate of arrival / entry of air in different situations may differ significantly. Such preconditions make it almost impossible to accurately calculate the optimum air exchange rate for natural ventilation.

Some bath owners are afraid to suffocate while taking bath procedures due to lack of oxygen. We bring to their attention that one cubic meter of air is enough for one person to breathe for an hour and a half. Calculate the cubic capacity of the steam room and find out how long you can safely steam, the bill goes to tens of hours.

Carbon monoxide can cause problems. If you closed the stove gate before the firewood is completely burned out, then no ventilation will help. It can ventilate the room only if there is no more carbon monoxide coming in. Heat the stove correctly and never burn out, do not rely in vain on ventilation.

How to make a ventilation hole in the wall of the bath

For example, we will take the most difficult option - the outer and inner lining of the walls of the bath has already been done. The hole can be round, square or rectangular.

Step 1. Mark the location of the vent on the inner lining of the steam room. Before starting work, you must not only know the location of the hole, but also its dimensions and configuration. It is desirable that air ducts and decorative grilles are available, this will make it possible to accurately control the size of the hole and not do extra work.

Step 2 Prepare a long drill for wood, the working length should exceed the thickness of the bath wall together with the outer and inner lining. In the center of the drawn contour of the vent, drill a through hole from the inside of the steam room. The exit of the drill outside the steam room will be the center of the air. Draw around it the dimensions of the hole, similarly made in the steam room.

Step 3 Remove the elements of the inner and outer skin in the contour. If your bath is sheathed on both sides with natural clapboard, then the process is simplified, just carefully cut the boards. If metal sheets were used on the outside, use a grinder.

Step 4 Carefully inspect the supporting structures of the skin, if they are damaged, repair. Drill through holes as close as possible to each other along the contour of the ventilation duct, constantly check where they exit from the outside of the wall. The drill must always be perpendicular to the plane. Drill the same holes over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe vent, the more there are, the easier it is to make a hole in the wall.

Video - How to drill a large diameter hole in a tree

Step 5. Next, you need to work with a chisel and a chisel, gradually remove the wooden bridges between the holes. It will not be possible to completely gouge a hole on one side of the wall - it is too difficult to reach with a tool. Do half of the work from the inside of the steam room, and the other half from the outside. It is not necessary to carefully level the surfaces of the holes, the main thing is that the air duct fits easily into the channel.

The most difficult physical work is done, you can proceed with the installation of the duct and gratings. Don't be discouraged if it takes a long time to make holes, even experienced builders can rarely prepare more than two holes a day.

How to install ducts and grilles

For air ducts, you can take metal galvanized or plastic pipes, the length is determined by the length of the passage. Select the grate according to the size of the hole; to adjust the ventilation efficiency, it must have dampers.

Step 1. Insulate the planes of the hole with mineral wool, carefully insert the air duct into place. In order to firmly fix the pipe in the desired position, use mounting foam. Excess foam that has come out should be cut off after hardening.

Step 2 If there is waterproofing between the sheathing and the wall, foam the gap between the wall and the hole in the sheathing with foam, it will seal the cut and prevent water from entering the wooden structures.

Step 3 Fasten the gratings, the method of fastening depends on the material of manufacture of the wall cladding and the crate.

Check ventilation with a smoldering firebrand or other source of smoke. Bring it to the inlet and observe how and at what speed the air flows in the steam room.

In the photo, the air inflow valve and its performance check

Experiment with natural ventilation at various damper settings, from maximum to minimum.

Video - Installing the KPV 125 valve

Video - Ventilation in a bath with a Termofor air conditioning oven

Arranging a sauna is a very interesting process, but troublesome. It is necessary to take into account a good hundred little things, so that it is not only comfortable, but also safe for health. The latter also depends on air exchange - improperly equipped ventilation in the sauna can form a draft or, conversely, lead to too much heating of the room!

The steam room is a key place for ventilation

The most important room of any sauna or bath is, of course, the steam room. And in the steam room, the high temperature largely depends on ventilation, and not only it, but also the quality of rest. What is the use of hot air if it is stale and saturated with damp smells and sweat products?

In addition, one should not forget that any steam room is a place with high humidity, which means an increased danger for all elements (especially wooden ones) to become a breeding ground for mold and fungus. And what sauna can do without electrics now? Even with a minimum of electrical equipment, you need to run a banal light, make a switch - that's the risk of getting an electric shock in high humidity!

In order not to have to constantly think about high humidity, it is better to think about high-quality ventilation once. Thinking, of course, will not be enough - you also need to implement the plan correctly! Since school days, we all know that hot air has one pronounced feature - it always tends to rise up, pushing cold air down. Thanks to this, the natural circulation of air in the atmosphere on a global scale and in each room in particular is ensured. Applied to the steam room, thanks to this law of physics, we get the hottest places on the upper shelves and relatively cool on the lower ones.

According to generally accepted standards, the air in the steam room should be updated at least three times per hour., optimal recommendations - all seven times! Such air exchange can be ensured using conventional supply and exhaust ventilation - hot air, rising to the ceiling, exits through the exhaust vent, as a result of which a slight vacuum is created in the intake duct, and fresh air enters the room. Such a system is applicable to the toilet, but, unlike them, has its own characteristics.

But the task is complicated by the fact that the hottest steam, which is located at the top level of the steam room, should not immediately slip into the hood, otherwise you will be left in a cold sauna, which urgently needs to be heated. If this happens, it means that the hood is equipped incorrectly! Sometimes this is due to the impossibility of the correct arrangement of elements due to the architectural features of the building, in which case it is necessary to consider options for ventilation combined with a mechanical method.

Supply and exhaust ventilation in the sauna - arrangement scheme

To begin with, consider the classics - natural supply and exhaust ventilation. The hood law of this type is the correct location of the inlet and outlet openings. The correct one is when the inlet is located near the stove or under it (if we are talking about the electric version), while the outlet is located on the opposite side. Also, cold fresh air will enter the steam room through a specially left 5-7 cm gap under the door.

The inlet openings must be located strictly below so that the cold air can have time to heat up before it enters the area where people stay.

For proper air circulation, one exhaust opening will not be enough. On the opposite side of the inflow, the first hood is located at a height of about a meter, the second is under the ceiling. Both openings must be connected by an exhaust duct, which leads either to the main ventilation system or to the chimney. If the air duct goes separately, then you need to remember that the higher the pipe rises above the roof level, the more thrust will be in the system - it is important not to overdo it!

So that you can regulate the intensity of air exchange, it is imperative to install shutters on the air outlets. How does such a system work? Let's imagine a standard steam room with a stove-heater at the far wall and a door at the near one. As expected, a gap was left under the door, and the hoods are located on opposite walls: near the stove and at the door.

Before heating the steam room, it must be properly ventilated so that there is fresh air in the room. The doors and outlets are then closed, leaving only the inlet valve open. The steam room will heat up quickly enough, since the hot air will soon have nowhere to go, which means that there will be no air discharge in the inlet.

When the sauna has warmed up, we still leave the upper channel closed, while opening the lower channel a little - thanks to this, air circulation in the steam room will begin, while the upper layers of the warmest air will not leave the room. Cold air will again begin to enter through the supply channel, but due to the proximity of the heater to the resting people, it will get already warmed up, gradually rising up and replacing the stagnant air.

Thanks to this air exchange, the room will have fresh and warm air. Vacationers may not even notice such a change, enjoying the process. Such a system provides economical handling of already heated air, which means you will save on coolant consumption. In addition, problems with mold and fungus will not affect you - thanks to this circulation, all elements will dry properly.

Combined system - when there are no other options

Structural features do not always give us the opportunity to provide ventilation strictly according to the above scheme. For example, a steam room has three adjacent walls with other rooms, and the inlet and outlet must be placed on the same wall. In this case, the correct location must be observed: the supply should be at a distance of 20 cm from the floor, while the outlet should be located at the same distance, only from the ceiling.

Cold air currents, entering the room, will pass through the stove, heat up and rise up, refreshing and warming the room. The disadvantage of this method is that the air circulation is too intense, which must be tightly regulated using valves on the holes.

There is also an option in which the inlet is not located below, under the stove, but above the heater. If the outlet channel is located at a higher level on the opposite wall, we will get a relatively normal movement of air masses. True, it may not be enough, therefore, in such cases, a fan is placed in the outlet to drive air. This will be combined ventilation.

Classic mistakes - what not to do

The most common mistake in the arrangement of supply and exhaust ventilation is the location of the ventilation openings at the same level. As a result, we get a draft below, and hot air at the upper levels will practically not take part in air exchange.

If you make only one hole for the air outlet under the ceiling, even with the correct placement of the inlet and outlet, the mixing of hot and cold air flows will be too fast - the steam room can cool down in a few minutes! Usually, the upper opening is used only in cases where you want to quickly reduce the temperature or completely ventilate the room.

Greetings, dear host. You built a house, gave birth to a son, planted a tree near the house, it's time to think about health. Yes, yes, about your health, and your family. It's time to build a bathroom!

How to build, from what materials, where to choose a place - you decide - you are the owner, and I will talk about, probably, the most important and important part of the construction - ventilation. Ideally, the calculation and organization of the ventilation system should be carried out at the construction planning stage. But in real life, there are many options:

• the bath is being built, but they forgot about ventilation
• construction is over, and then they remembered
• steam room inside the house

Building a bath without ventilation is not a rare case, you should not sprinkle ashes on your head and think that you are stupider than others. Not at all, at least you remembered, and this is already something. Adjustment of air circulation is possible, even if it has not been provided.

It is not advisable to rely on burst ventilation: the accumulated heat does not go away with the door open, but, according to the laws of physics, turns into steam and settles in the form of condensate on the walls and floor. Hello fungus! It’s a pity, of course, because redevelopment, and this is what it is, will cost a pretty penny. And when in the house? What about a brick house?

• air is enriched with oxygen
• creates the optimum temperature
• removal of excess moisture
• removal of accumulated carbon dioxide

The diameter of the ventilation carried out affects the quality of the process: a small traction force will not allow the entire system to work fully, which will nullify all the work done, and an excessively powerful traction, on the contrary, will not allow creating the optimum temperature. Proper ventilation requires compliance with indents:

• for supply air flow 10-30 cm from the floor
• for the upper hood 20-30 cm from the ceiling

Do you need a steam room?

Yes, definitely yes. This famous and very useful building is being erected with the main goal: recovery. Steamed skin passes accumulated slags and dirt through itself, while saturating the body with oxygen, and what kind of oxygen are we talking about in a tightly sealed room?

A steam room without ventilation is more like a hyperbaric chamber with carbon dioxide; within a few minutes, unbearable heat and lack of oxygen will drive you out of the steam room. To arrange an outlet with a natural outlet, forced exhaust - depends on the technical and your capabilities. The main thing. The hood from the stove, it is gas, wood, must have a separate overpass.

Ventilation in the steam room in the Russian bath

The Russian bath differs from the sauna in the principle of operation of the steam room, the method of heating and ventilation. The bathhouse was heated "in black" and "in white". In the first version, the stove was heated, the stones laid on top of the hearth were heated, the burnt coals were raked out and carried away, the heat came from the stones, the air was outflowed through the door or window. In the second version, the stove worked during the park, the smoke came out through the chimney, and excess heat also went through it. In a modern bath, in addition to the chimney, additional exits are used.

There are many options: in the finished room, connect the steam outlet of the vent to the existing air ducts, through other rooms, when the wiring goes inside the house, bring a separate pipe to the street by drilling a hole in the wall.

The location of the holes varies depending on the desired result: the hood is lower - the temperature rises faster, higher - better air circulation.

Steam room ventilation

Supply and exhaust diameter

Basement. The steam room is ready. The only opening is the front door. Already good. For the organization of forced ventilation we use it. It's easier - cut a hole at the bottom of the door with a jigsaw, put blinds, grating.

Better - in front of the door, from the side of the steam room, build a box with outlets from sewer pipes under the stove and to the side. Use the grate with a valve - in winter, the air is colder, it will take longer to warm up the room.

The air flow from under the stove will rise up, capturing heat, and an additional draft of fresh air will go from the pipe laid aside (in winter it can be tightly closed with a valve). Next, we cut a window to Europe. Kidding. Outside.

From the outside, we mark the approximate place where you need to make an extract. Above the ground - lucky, below the level - we remove the soil, make a dig (so as not to miss, it is better to take it wider). A concrete wall or masonry can be drilled with a special tool. It is unlikely that he will be found by a non-specialist.

Alternatively, rent a tool. You go to the Internet, open sites that specialize in such a service, and place an order. But you and I are simple people, we will break through. A puncher is not a rare thing, I have it, I think you will also have it.

We go down to the basement again. I managed to sheathe the walls - nothing, we will remove the sheathing. On a bare wall, mark the place where the pipe exits with a marker. Be careful with the diameter! Above, I already gave the calculation formula. You can take a piece of pipe and circle around. Silently stepping back along the perimeter of the circle (the hole should eventually be slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe), a through hole is drilled with a perforator, after 2-3 cm the next one, and so on in a circle.

With a chisel you break the formed jumpers - that's it, the opening is ready. You take out the remains of the wall, trim the edges and walls of the tunnel, and try to advance the pipe. Happened? Cool. No - pay attention to what interferes, bring down the excess.

When the wall is made of timber, the technology for cutting the opening is on the same principle as on brickwork, with a small difference: a jigsaw is taken instead of a chisel. Sewer pipes are not suitable for an exhaust pipe, galvanization is required.

We insert the segment into the opening, fill the voids with insulation (glass wool, mineral wool), sew up the walls with wood. The gap between the casing and the pipe must be foamed. We make a box. It is needed to regulate the degree and height of heating the room. The thickness of the box corresponds to the diameter of the pipe with which it is connected, the length depends on the height of the steam room. Two windows are cut out on the box, which are equipped with a blind valve. One window is located about twenty cm from the ceiling, the lower one is 50-60 cm from the floor.

When the stove is fired, both exhaust dampers in the steam room are closed, as a result, the lower one opens first, and then, if necessary, the upper one. So you can easily adjust the temperature right during the procedure.

Using the built-in fan will improve the outflow of hot air from the room. Don't forget about gratings at the outlet of the duct to keep dry leaves and other debris out. By the way, it is necessary to clean the hood at least once a year.

Bastu has become widespread. The system has taken root due to the ease of installation and efficient heat distribution. Only now it is better to mount it initially, at the construction stage. The above scheme and the device for circulating air flows are fundamentally different from those described by me in this article earlier.

The bastu principle is an inverted glass. As you can see, both the supply air duct and the outlet are almost at the same height - just above the floor level.

The lower pipe, through which air enters the steam room, originates from the street, the outlet is located behind the stove - in fact, this is the thrust. The heated air outlet is located strictly diagonally from the stove, located below the bench. Warm air from the stove rises, creates an increased pressure under the ceiling, and cools down a little in the opposite corner and, descending, enters the ventilation.

The main difference is approximately the same air temperature along the height of the room, while in the Russian bath the upper bench is hotter, and the lower one is more comfortable.

When the heated air masses rush to the lower point of the exhaust, they will take heavy moist air with them and dry the floors faster.

The downside here is the dependence of effective work on the strength of the wind on the street, when the air blown into the exhaust pipe interferes with the natural outflow, moreover, it can reverse it. Then the steam room will be filled with the smell of burnt fuel, which will not allow you to get the proper result from the procedures.

Useful video about ventilation in the steam room

To determine the value of ventilation in the bath know its purpose:

1. Rapid heating of the room, uniform distribution of heat. Savings in heating costs.
2. Constant air renewal during soaring. This is necessary for the comfort and health of vacationers.
3. Rapid removal of moist air. Implementation of mandatory drying of the premises.
4. Preservation of the building for a longer time. No fungi or mold appear. Objects are not deformed, do not change color under the influence of moisture.

No or insufficient ventilation unpleasant odors gradually accumulate in the room, the air becomes damp. Fresh air is not supplied, it becomes difficult to breathe. There is a risk of carbon monoxide poisoning. Without ventilation, all the warm air will gradually go up, and the cooling air will accumulate below.

Proper ventilation system in the baths

In baths made of natural logs any punching of holes to provide ventilation is considered superfluous. The lower crowns of the walls are laid with the installation of holes through which a moderate amount of fresh air passes. If there is a stove-heater in which the blower is simultaneously designed to bring air out, you can limit yourself to its presence. They let in air through the open door, a gap of 5-7 mm is enough.

Ventilation is designed for regular entry into the bath of fresh air, outflow of cooled and moist. For fresh air flow need to build vents. If they are not, then you can use the vents, doors. The hood also takes place through special openings; a furnace blower can be used; a chimney is of great importance in the outflow of steam. In order to be able to fully control the air exchange, the openings are equipped with shutters, by adjusting which you can stop or resume the flow and exit of air.

There is a wide range of ventilation systems:

1. For inlet and outlet located opposite each other, one level is used. In some cases, the low placement of the inlet helps to retain heat for a longer time. To activate the air exchange, a fan is installed, an air duct or a deflector can also be used. You can not place holes with an exact match in level. As a result of the rapid release of air, accumulations of cold at the bottom and warm in the rest of the bath can form.
2. The air currents directed by the operating ventilation device lower the pressure inside the duct. Exhaust air is drawn out due to a decrease in pressure inside the bath. To raise the pressure again, fresh air is supplied.
3. The vents can be arranged in this way: the supply air is 30 cm from the floor, the outlet located opposite does not reach the ceiling by 30 cm. Fresh air immediately heats up from the stove, rises, gradually leaving the room.

To ensure constant control over the speed and volume of incoming and outgoing air, dampers are created. It is advisable to make them retractable, slightly opening to the required distance. The length of the duct is determined by the dimensions of the bath, as well as the maximum volume of required incoming air.

When the room is only heated with a preheated stove, all openings should be covered. When the temperature becomes optimal for vaping, the shutters open slightly and are immediately regulated so that the air exchange does not change the temperature in the room. Both inlet and outlet openings must have a connector close to the same. To make the influx of fresh air stronger, you can slightly increase the outlet.

The inlet connector must not be larger than the outlet. This leads to a reverse draft, which contributes to the release of fresh air from the bath, and not its active circulation.

Ventilation in the Russian bath

In a classic bath, created according to the Russian model, no special holes, so air exchange should be performed in a more natural way. Normally, conventional ventilation is used to supply fresh air. You can open the door leading to the street and the window opposite to it. Sometimes forced exhaust is used with the door open. To better get rid of the accumulated dampness, you should sweep the leaves from the broom in a timely manner. Benches and other wooden objects can be dried when wet, sometimes sheets are swept. These procedures will not allow the formation of heavy steam, remove unpleasant odors and decay products from the room.

After the bath is ventilated and dried, need to start steaming. To do this, pour water on the stones in small portions. The prepared steam rises quickly and stays there for a long time, so it may turn out that it is already very hot at the top, and still cool at the bottom. With a strong temperature difference, you can wait until the steam sinks or use artificial methods to lower it.

It is enough to work with brooms to create movement in the steam room, the air will immediately mix. Waves with a towel or broom should be carried out closer to the ceiling.

You can make a fan: on the wooden handle there is a stainless steel loop, on which the fabric is stretched. Horizontal or vertical movements are made by this device to move warm and cold air. Sometimes they begin to use it in the manufacture of steam. To do this, one person pours water on the stones, and the second works with a fan.

in the steam room

In classical bath ventilation schemes, it is assumed air flow in the steam room from below. The hole is usually located below half a meter from the floor. The hood can be placed close to the ceiling by equipping a hole on the opposite wall. The regulation of the level of humidity and heat of the air is carried out by extending or closing the shutters.

The best option, especially for a small steam room, is to create an air inlet next to the stove. This is necessary to instantly heat the incoming fresh air. This arrangement will not allow strong drafts to form, helps to avoid a large temperature difference in different parts of the steam room. The heat from the steam room can not only be taken outside, but also moved to other rooms for their high-quality heating.

Proper ventilation works by bringing fresh air under the box. Air masses leave the device through the top opening. The steam room warms up quite evenly until the warm air reaches the bottom of the box. Hot air will gradually displace colder air, providing warming before leaving the room. The steam room simultaneously heats up and dries out.

In the bathhouse

The ventilation channel is directly connected to the duct, the diameter of which usually exceeds the chimney by no more than 20%. With such parameters, oxygen fills the room, and does not leave it. Air intake from the underground is not needed.

The walls of the stove, if it is in the dressing room, should be close to the floor. Shelves are not necessarily placed in a strictly horizontal position. They are able to slow down the rise of heat to the ceiling. For better absorption of warm air, it is better to equip the stove with several chimneys.

Sometimes during the heating of the bath in the room a large amount of smoke is formed and retained. This means that the air inside the dressing room is colder than in the environment. Cold air is somewhat more massive than warm air, so it often creates a shell in chimneys. In order to push out this air, it is necessary to equip an additional door for burning ash.

Forced ventilation

Ventilation in the bath with the help of electronic systems is carried out if it is impossible to provide good air circulation in natural ways. Fans can be installed on both supply and exhaust openings. They accelerate the movement of air masses, providing the room with fresh air, quickly removing moist.

Exhaust ventilation

In the design of this ventilation is always present exhaust fan. For air circulation, a supply air is also necessarily constructed. Sometimes cracks in the walls are used for fresh air to enter, windows or doors are slightly opened. The advantage of exhaust ventilation is to reduce the pressure in the bath. The action must be compensated by a constant flow of air from outside.

Ventilation with a powerful hood perfectly removes harmful gases, humid air with an unpleasant odor. It is possible to build such a ventilation system not only in the steam room, but also in showers, washing rooms, departments with a pool or in bathrooms. Usually, the basic set of the exhaust ventilation system includes a fan and a box. If the device is too noisy, a silencer can be used.

Forced ventilation

It is installed according to the exhaust principle, however the fan must be placed on the inlet. When the supply ventilation system is activated, an increase in pressure in the room is observed, which should be compensated in a timely manner by the release of air through the hood or gaps in the walls, floor, ceiling, through the windows, the door.

Supply fans are not considered convenient if they will operate in cold temperatures. In winter, they supply icy air, which must be additionally heated by pre-installed air heaters. If it is necessary to purify a large amount of incoming air, filters can be used.

Supply and exhaust ventilation

Combination of artificial inflow and exhaust air is often equipped with recuperators, silencers, filters. Additional devices provide comfort while in the bath, at the same time there is a constant, good air circulation. In order not to worry about ventilation, you can equip it with an automatic control unit.

Creating a design for supply and exhaust artificial ventilation often causes difficulties. It is necessary to calculate the optimal air exchange in all rooms of the bath at the design stage. The amount of outgoing air must match the incoming air. Sometimes air flows are not specifically balanced. In order to prevent the spread of excessive humidity or unpleasant odors from a certain room, the pressure is artificially reduced in it. To do this, the hood is mounted with greater intensity than in other rooms.

When arranging ventilation in the bath, you should take care not only of the steam room, but also of other important rooms. To save heating costs, you can use the warm air generated in the steam room, taking it out not to the street, but through other rooms. By adapting the ventilation system to specific requests, you can make the most successful option.

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the bath? - easily, the event can be carried out by a man without professional skills. Why do you even need to monitor how to properly ventilate the bath? The answer is obvious. Properly arranged ventilation in the bath affects the maintenance of temperature in the locker room, washing room, steam room, or relaxation room. The second, but no less significant impact, the movement of air masses has on safety wooden structureand the service life of its parts.

When designing a bath complex and its construction, it must be taken into account that the ventilation of the bath complex must be carried out taking into account the established rules, supplemented by subtle nuances. There is plenty of information on how to make ventilation in the bath with your own hands, with detailed instructions, photos and videos. We will outline the main stages of installing air exchange inside the bath space and the steam room below.

Properly arranged ventilation in the bath is guaranteed to keep the temperature at a comfortable level inside the steam room. Extending the life of wooden structures.

The operation of the ventilation system based on the known laws of physics, as well as the ventilation scheme, is understandable and does not raise questions. To fulfill the condition of air circulation in a constant mode, we need only a pair of holes of two types:

• exhaust;
• supply.

The intake of fresh air into the room will provide an inlet. The best location for supply ventilation in the bath is near the stove, at a height as close to the floor as possible. Such an arrangement will provide rapid heating of the incoming air, not allowing it to cool the room, maintaining a constant temperature.

Scheme of air movement inside the steam room.

Extraction slots are necessary to remove superheated moist air and carbon monoxide (carbon monoxide) from the steam room. Exhaust openings should be located opposite, as high as possible, slightly below the edge of the ceiling. Both lugs are preferably positioned opposite each other in order to effectively create and maintain a continuous exchange of air.

Attention! Do not plan the location of the exhaust outlet directly in the ceiling! A hole for the exit of air masses in the ceiling part leads to a sharp cooling of the bath, preventing hot masses from lingering.

With the concept of locating the supply and exhaust openings, everything is clear and there are no problems in organizing work on the ventilation device in the bath with your own hands. But the task of maintaining a high temperature in the steam room and at the same time effectively removing exhaust air and carbon monoxide remains open.

You should also pay attention that the ventilation in the bath should work to maintain an acceptable temperature in the premises for hygiene procedures, in the dressing room, and other parts of the room: in the dressing room, in the washing room and in the rest room. And if you are faced with the task of implementing a ventilation scheme in a steam room with your own hands, you should think about doing the job right.

The correct scheme of air circulation in the bath

Main types of ventilation

There are two main types of ventilation:

• natural;
• forced.

Which one to choose depends on the design of the bath and the volume of its premises.

Ventilation using an electronic control unit

Natural ventilation of the bath

It starts up on its own due to the difference in temperature and pressure inside the room and outside. The efficiency of natural flows depends on the placement of air inlet and outlet openings. It is better and more optimal when the feed holes are close to the floor. Place them at a height of 200-350 mm, next to the stove. It is better to place the exhaust pipes of the hood on the opposite wall, below the ceiling level of 150-200 mm.

Ventilation systems with natural air movement are not suitable for ventilating a steam room or sauna, as the cold air in this room accumulates at the bottom of the floor, and the hot air at the top. We also need hot streams to linger in the steam room as long as possible.

Adjusting the movement of the air flow is accompanied by difficulties, but with the correct arrangement of the components of the ventilation system with your own hands, you can cope with this problem.

Natural ventilation for a steam room is not desirable, it is advisable to organize it in a recreation area

Forced ventilation

This kind of air recirculation in a steam room of a Russian bath or a Finnish sauna can be divided into two subspecies:

• The ventilation controls the temperature and humidity through the automation of the electronic system, by automatically adjusting the supply and filtration. Such systems are expensive, and their use often does not match the allocated budget.
• The combined ventilation system involves the sharing of conventional natural air exchange in combination with a forced fan.

Scheme of internal ventilation ducts in the wall of the bath

Ventilation in the bath depends on the type of construction

The natural movement of air with the correct location of the ventilation holes and their sizes corresponding to the volume of the premises works well in a Russian bath, assembled from round logs or timber.

The structure of the frame of the steam room must be airtight. It is advisable to use forced ventilation in frame baths made of timber. Vents for supply are arranged in the outer wall of the steam rooms and must be additionally equipped with a blower fan. In bath structures made of brick or concrete blocks, it is possible to achieve high-quality air movement only through forced ventilation.

Depending on what material the bath is built from, the ventilation system is selected.

We plan ventilation in the bath: subtleties and nuances

Before proceeding to the choice of the ventilation scheme in the bath and the device of its design with your own hands, you need to understand the subtleties and nuances of the design.

Carefully! Even a slight mistake in the location of the air inlet and outlet leads to unpleasant consequences. In the steam room, either the desired hot temperature drops or the concentration of carbon monoxide (carbon monoxide) increases.

The ventilation system is laid down at the design stage of structures - the necessary channels are planned and the location of the inlet and outlet windows is determined. During the construction of the bath, adjustable windows are installed after the decorative sheathing of the room. The organization of the exchange of air masses in the room and the question "How to make ventilation in the bath" must be resolved at the design stage.

The ventilation ducts of the dressing room, bathroom, steam room, rest room, as well as openings for the inflow of fresh air and the removal of a mixture of carbon monoxide, including moist air masses, must be installed at the appropriate stages of construction. At the stage of final finishing of the premises, valves and gratings are installed to control the dimensions of the supply and exhaust openings and the cross sections of the ventilation ducts.

Basically, two factors affect the effective functioning of the ventilation of the bath:

• ventilation window size. Both supply and exhaust air openings are determined by the amount of space, whether it is a dressing room, a washing room, a steam room or a relaxation room;
• location of slots relative to each other.

1. Vent size

The dimensions of the slots depend on the number and volume of rooms: dressing room, steam room, bath room or lounge. It is necessary to choose the optimal size of these holes, as well as to provide the possibility of its regulation. To adjust the gaps in the holes, install the door damper and the grille. The exhaust opening is made with approximately the same dimensions as the dimensions of the supply opening. In any case, the "hood" should not be less than the "supply", otherwise it is impossible to ensure a full outflow of moist and carbon monoxide air from the steam room.

In the photo on the left. air vent with slider to regulate the amount of fresh air. Keep in mind that with a large number of ventilation windows, it is more difficult to heat the sauna room to the correct temperature.

Large ventilation windows lead to excessive consumption of fuel or electricity. In addition, there are problems with adjusting the cross section of the ventilation ducts. It is difficult to relax if you constantly have to change the position of each valve.

IMPORTANT! The dimensions of the ventilation hole are calculated as 24 cm2 per 1 m3 of the volume of the ventilated area. For a good supply of fresh air from outside, the outlet eye must be larger than the inlet.

If the area of ​​the ventilation holes is insufficient, the temperature, humidity and concentration of carbon monoxide in the room can rise to critical levels.

The required dimension of the ventilation opening is designed at the rate of 24 sq. cm per 1 cubic meter of bath volume

2. The location of the ventilation holes relative to each other

The functioning of any ventilation system is based on the replacement of a mass of hot air with cold air. The movement occurs under the pressure of cold air from outside, as it is heavier. It remains only to provide for the possibility of adjusting the direction of the flow of hot air coming from the stove installed in the bath.

For this reason, ventilation in a steam room is not limited to equipping a single supply opening. It is necessary to plan two windows. To optimize the heat flow, it is enough to adjust the gaps of a certain width in the holes with the help of a valve - a valve.

Schematic representation of the placement of ventilation holes in the steam room. Influx of fresh and removal of polluted air masses.

Ventilation in the Russian bath

Assembling ventilation in the bath with your own hands is easier if you follow a simple rule. Qualitative indicators of the ventilation system in the bath are laid at the initial stage of design work. In the bath, the circulating air flows in the rooms have a pronounced temperature difference, to level discomfort from this mixture is the main task.

IMPORTANT! A comfortable atmosphere in the bath depends not only on the absence of sudden changes in temperature "horizontally", that is, when moving from one room to another: from the relaxation room to the locker room or from the steam room to the washing room. Synchronous mixing of air masses in the vertical plane is necessary: ​​the air temperature near the floor should not be significantly lower than the temperature at the level of human growth.

The microclimate in the bath is directly affected by the number, size and location of ventilation windows.

The uniformity of intake, mixing and removal of air masses depends on the number of supply and exhaust openings, their size and location relative to each other, as well as heating devices and equipment of additional devices.

Block diagram of the ventilation device in the bath

Any scheme of the ventilation system in the bath is designed with one goal in mind - maintaining the temperature, humidity and freshness of the air in the steam room. Bath rooms, especially steam rooms, are exposed to water and steam, so periodic ventilation and drying is required. But airing and drying will be ineffective if proper ventilation is not organized in the bath. Proper and continuous ventilation of the steam room greatly reduces the effects of wood absorption of moisture.

Ventilation in the bath controls the temperature, humidity and freshness of the air in the steam room.

Do-it-yourself floor ventilation in the bath

Air exchange in baths and saunas, among other things, provides a ventilated floor.
in constant contact with water, they lose their appearance and become unusable after 4 years. Requirements for ventilation organized by means of the floor:

• it is necessary to create a stream, and make a small vent in the foundation part of the building;
• the floor should be laid, leaving a gap between the boards of 1 cm;
• arrange the supply air openings in parallel walls (not forgetting to protect the control grilles from rodents);
• it is desirable to make the stove work as an additional hood, for this it is necessary to plan the level of the finished floor above the blower;
• after completing the water procedures, it is necessary to leave the door to the steam room open until the floor in the room is dry.

Ventilation in the bath - a general scheme of the system

Ventilation in the dressing room of the bath

There is no direct contact with water in the dressing room. That is why it is not difficult to make ventilation with your own hands in the wardrobe room, armed with photos and videos with instructions.

Use natural or hybrid ventilation. Use a fan to supply fresh air. Install vents with ventilators that need direct access to the street and a power cable connection to the power supply.

Natural and combined ventilation is allowed in the dressing room.

Ventilation in the washing area

To optimize the air exchange in the washing room, a forced ventilation system is used. It is driven by an electric motor. The air flow is removed in the direction of the vestibule (vestibule). The air supply and exhaust ducts are mounted with the same cross section. section. The inlet opening is located above ground level (2 m) and the outlet of the outlet pipe is led out to the roof.

Steam room ventilation

Special requirements are imposed on the microclimate of the steam room. The steam room must be heated quickly, while maintaining the optimum level of humidity and without drafts. Thus, for a steam room, the actual position and dimensions of the inlet and outlet channels that are used in the construction of the bath are very important.

To regulate the inflow and outflow of air, there are enough valves in the ventilated openings. A large amount of space will most likely require the use of a blower or exhaust fan.

Scheme: ventilation in the steam room

We have given typical schematic diagrams for designing ventilation in a bathhouse. Video and images, attached instructions, will definitely help those who want to build a bath complex on their own. We wish you the speedy realization of your dreams in concrete forms!