First dressing
The first top dressing should be carried out at the first hilling. During this period, agronomists recommend top dressing with a mixture of nitrogen, potash and phosphate fertilizers. The fact is that potatoes are very demanding on the content of potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus in the soil. Potassium and nitrogen are responsible for the size of the tuber, and phosphorus for their number. A solution is used for feeding.
The solution is prepared according to the following method, taken:
- nitrogen- potash fertilizers 30 g;
- phosphate fertilizers 60 g;
- water 10 l;
The solution must be handled carefully and do not get it on young plants (it will just burn them). Often farms use such a thing as nitroamofoska, it is often added to the wells during planting. The norm of use is one teaspoon per hole. In autumn, nitroamofoska fertilize areas for planting potatoes in spring, the consumption rate in this case is 20 g of fertilizer per 1 m2. For potatoes, the use of potash fertilizers is very important, they help increase yields and increase the mass of tubers. Agronomists strongly advise the use of fertilizers with a high content of potassium.
Using chicken manure as fertilizer
The first feeding of potatoes immediately after planting can be carried out using manure or litter. Fertilizer must be diluted with water and insisted a few days before being applied to the ground. proportions of water and chicken manure about 1 to 15, be careful, it's better to make a weak solution than burn the plants. Potato nutrition chicken manure, made by the described method, is done immediately after rain, as well as abundant watering, the earth should be well moistened. A liter of solution is poured under each plant.
Chicken manure is very nutrient fertilizer and contains many trace elements:
- nitrogen - 2%;
- phosphorus (in the form of phosphoric acid) - 1.5-2.0%;
- potassium - 1.0%;
- calcium - 2.4%;
- magnesium - 0.8%;
- sulfur - 0.5%;
Using sawdust, wood ash and onion husks as fertilizer
What else can you feed potatoes to be better harvest. In addition to chicken manure, nitrogen-potassium and phosphorus fertilizers, sawdust, wood ash and onion husks can be used.
There are two ways to apply wood ash like fertilizer. In the first method, the ashes are poured into the hole during planting. In the second method, the tubers are rolled in ash. If the ash is poured into the pits, then it is necessary to control its consumption, it should be no more than 300 g per square meter. When ash is used in the country as a fertilizer for feeding potatoes, the tubers come out starchy.
The beginning of May in our area is the traditional time for planting potatoes. So it's time to think about how to plant it this time, because in recent times new, original ones have been added to the usual methods - there is plenty to choose from.
Traditional ways of planting potatoes
There are three common methods: smooth fit, ridge and into the trenches. Moreover, this is precisely the case when an arbitrary choice does not top scores, because each of the options is designed for very specific conditions and in others it simply may not justify itself. Only the basic requirements remain common: to arrange plantings in the direction from south to north, so that the plants are illuminated evenly and receive a sufficient amount of light; keep distances. Also, do not forget about fertilization (I usually use ashes and compost); useful to add to holes or trenches onion peel, which protects plantings from the Colorado potato beetle. Between rows of tubers:- for early varieties - 60 cm
- for late varieties- 70 cm.
- for early varieties - 25-30 cm
- for late varieties - 30-35 cm.
The distance between plants is important to observe. A photo
It is considered optimal planting depth:
- on light soils - 10-12 cm
- on heavy and loam - 8-10 cm
- on the clay soils- 4-5 cm.
In this video, Doctor of Biological Sciences, Head of the Department of Potato Genetic Resources of VIR named after V.I. Vavilova Kiru Stepan Dmitrievich talks about how to determine the correct planting dates and how to plant potatoes correctly.
ridge planting
This is a method in which ridges about 15 cm high with a distance of about 70 cm between them are made in the area intended for planting potatoes, and then tubers are planted in them.This technology will be expedient where they lie close to the surface, the soil suffers from waterlogging. The method will also be useful on heavy soils, which are quickly compacted, preventing air exchange. In practice, combs are sometimes used simply because there is a tractor.
For example, in the village where I had a dacha, everyone plowed plots for potatoes with a tractor. And since the tractor driver also had the necessary devices for hilling, they put them in ridges - in order to minimize manual labor. I refused this idea, even though we have loams: in dry years, moisture leaves such ridges very quickly, and abundant watering is required. And where I live now, there is sandy soil at all - here even the beds have to be made with sides, because the earth crumbles. Yes, and moisture does not linger in such soil, so another method is more suitable for us.
Planting potatoes in trenches
These are, in fact, ridges on the contrary: on sandy soils that do not retain moisture well, as well as in arid climates, we do not raise the tubers above ground level, but, on the contrary, we deepen them, laying them in trenches laid taking into account all recommended distances.
Naturally, if you use this method in areas with high humidity or very dense soil, there is a risk that our potatoes will simply suffocate or rot in the damp soil.
Smooth fit
If you got a site on the southern slope, where the soil warms up quickly, and the soil is quite loose and moderately moisture-intensive, you can plant it using the “under a shovel” method. This is best done with two people. Rows of future plantings are outlined, then one of the participants in the process, moving along the intended line, makes small holes (someone simply lifts a layer of earth to lay a tuber under it, someone prefers the holes - then the soil from the next "landing point" is covered previous). The second one follows and lays out the tubers.
We once used this method when planting potatoes in the first year on newly plowed virgin soil. The tractor left behind huge layers of earth - it would not have been possible to depict any ridges or trenches there in any case. Somehow they broke large clods with a hoe and put tubers under the shovel - just as they are, as it turns out. By autumn, the site had changed - thanks to loosening, hilling, there were noticeably fewer weeds, and there were almost no large clods left. The method paid off, I used it in the future.
Unusual ways of planting potatoes
I think that I will not list all the options in any case - the ingenuity of our summer residents knows no bounds. Usually, new method invented to solve a specific problem (task). For example, they got a plot overgrown with grass, but they don’t have the strength to raise virgin soil. Or there is not enough space, but you want to grow potatoes. Then, if the idea justified itself, you can develop it.BUT planting material and botanical potato seeds for growing your own seed tubers can be selected in our catalog, which combines the offers of large garden online stores. .
Perhaps you know other ways to plant potatoes? Or have you experienced one of the new methods in practice? Tell us in the comments - how do you plant potatoes, are you planning any experiment this season?
Messages about feeding plants with bread caused heated discussions among gardeners and gardeners. Disputers are concerned about both the moral and practical side of the issue.
On the one hand, it is believed that it is not ethical to throw away even dried bread. People gave their lives for a piece of bread. There can be no objections to this, and respect for the work of the farmer, as well as thrift, has not been canceled. But life is changing. And what if, for example, the bread bought the day before is moldy by morning? Or not so dramatically: there are crusts that no one wants to eat anymore. I do not believe that there are families in which such a situation never happens! Throw away - the hand is not raised. There are, of course, recipes using breadcrumbs. And if you have no time to do kitchen delights? What is the bad option with fertilizing plants with bread? They feed animals with bread. What if there are no animals? Why are plants worse? After all, they are also alive and also want to “eat”! Organics is the favorite "dish" of plants. And bread is the same organic matter. Nikolai Kurdyumov in his books explains the law of fertility very intelligibly: “Return more organic matter to the soil than it gave, and then it will give you even more.” Who cares, but personally, after that, any awkwardness disappears when using bread dressings.
When discussing the usefulness of bread as a top dressing, for some reason, they first of all remember yeast, living organisms capable of producing carbon dioxide. Well, yes, yeast is an indispensable attribute of bread baking. Only dead yeast no longer produces anything, but in bread they are just like that. At a temperature of +75, even their spores die. But as a food for saprophytic microbes, which make dead organic matter available for consumption by plants, bread is no worse than dry grass. With all its proteins, fats, carbohydrates, vitamins, micro and macro elements. During the winter, you can accumulate a decent amount of it.
After weighing all the pros and cons, Galina Donova (Nazarovo, Krasnoyarsk region) conducted a preliminary experiment in 2013. When planting seedlings of cucumbers, zucchini, tomatoes, cabbage, onions, strawberry whiskers, garlic cloves, potato tubers, she added soaked bread to the holes, which had accumulated over winter period, or used it for top dressing during the growing season. Contrary to expectation, not all cultures liked the bread supplement - lunges were noted on the cabbage, which was not observed during normal planting. Tomatoes hit the growth, "fattened", I had to apply special tricks to make them begin to bear fruit. Turnip onions planted with seedlings reduced the yield by half, spring garlic - by one and a half times, leek seemed to have not noticed top dressing. Cucumbers and zucchini, as well as potatoes and strawberries, responded well to the new top dressing. For example, in the experiment with bread, the yield of potatoes of the Agria variety was twice as high as in the control. Whether this happened by chance, and whether it was only on this variety, or was it a pattern inherent in other varieties and conditions, it was necessary to check, and Galina repeated the experiment in 2014. There were several options. Let's consider them in order.
First experience. Variety response.
When planting three varieties (mid-early Gala and Zekura, mid-late Agria), a handful of soaked bread was placed in half of the nests in the hole along with the tuber. What are the results? First of all, we are interested in Agria. Will she repeat her reaction to bread feeding? Yes, I did! And this time the addition of bread doubled the yield - 12 kg against 5.4 kg (calculated for 10 nests). Gala gave an increase of 32%, and Zekura - 22%. In general, we can say that all the tested varieties, to varying degrees, but positively responded to feeding with bread. The reliability of the increase was also confirmed by mathematical analysis.
Second experience. The question arises - is it necessary to soak bread for top dressing? Maybe it’s enough to bury a cracker in the ground, and then the rains will do their job. And the ground is rarely dry during planting. Galina tried this option too. When planting Agria, a third of the nests were left without a bread additive, another third was planted with soaked bread, and dry crusts were placed in the remaining nests. Last summer cannot be called particularly dry, there was enough precipitation (especially in the second half of summer), and one could expect approximately equal increases. But in reality, the option with crackers showed an insignificant increase - only 10%, while the soaked bread doubled the yield.
Third experience. Testing bread top dressing on poor soils.
But what if you plant potatoes instead of earth in bare sand and spud them with unrotted sawdust. Can a bread supplement at least partially compensate for the lack of nutrition? After all, usually the introduction of sawdust causes a depression in the crop in the first year, and sand, to put it mildly, is not the most nutrient medium for plants. For the experiment, the Zekura variety was taken. The choice was random, then we did not yet know that it was Zekura who would use bread feeding less than other varieties. However, the experience cannot be called useless. The results were even somewhat surprising. If 10 kg of potatoes were collected on ordinary land, then from the same number of nests on sand with sawdust - 8.6 kg. Not so little! Apparently, the roots, not finding food nearby, stretched further, deeper into the ground, on which lay a heap of sand. Now let's see if bread gave anything: the increase from it on the ground is 22% to control (without bread), on the sand - 17%. The difference between the options of 5% is too small, and it’s too early to talk about the increase itself, since mathematical analysis showed that the differences in yield are not reliable. Maybe the soil stuck to the tubers more, or they looked through and missed a couple of tubers during harvesting, or maybe the soil difference and microrelief played their role - someone got more, someone got less food and water.
At the same time (in the summer of 2014) near the city of Krasnoyarsk, on a plot with depleted heavy loamy soils, Alexander Fedorovich Linev experimented with bread. The level of potato yield in it, in comparison with the site of Galina, is an order of magnitude lower. This is exactly the option that Galina tried to create by planting potatoes in the sand. In the Krasnoyarsk experiment, two varieties were used: mid-early Adretta and mid-ripening Panda. The bread was not soaked. Contrary to expectations, no increase in bread feeding was obtained for both varieties, moreover, a decrease in yield was noted. Moreover, the differences between the experimental and control variants are significant at a high level of experimental accuracy.
But why on the rich soils of Galina, all varieties gave an increase, but on the poor it is either not significant, or top dressing does not work at all. To what extent should fertility decrease in order to get an increase from organic top dressing? Or maybe in poor soils there is simply no one to decompose organic matter, there are not enough microorganisms?
Perhaps the answer to some extent will be prompted by another experiment conducted by Linev with the Adretta variety. Wanting to improve fertility and get rid of weeds, two years ago Alexander Fedorovich left one part of the plot under clean fallow (he did not sow anything, but only cut the growing weeds), and sowed rye on the other. During fallowing, the earth rested and accumulated moisture, nutrients, increased soil microflora. On the plot with rye, weeds and pests were cleared; rye is not in vain considered an excellent soil sanitizer. At the same time, the earth was losing food and moisture reserves, which rye intensively used for its growth and development. On the next year potatoes were planted on both plots.
The yield of potatoes on the fallow plot, as expected, was higher than after rye, and the difference was 40%. Did the bread feed do anything? On the steam predecessor, the variant with bread showed a yield 14% lower than the control. The addition of bread in the area where rye was the forerunner of potatoes gave an increase of 23 percent.
What's the matter? Why, with a general low nitrogen content in the soil (this was shown by agrochemical analysis), on a more fertile fallow plot, there is no effect from top dressing, while on very poor (after rye), however, as well as on rich soils (in Galina), an increase noted? Or all these declines and increases are not significant at all, and there is no trend?
Thus, questions have only increased, and in order to understand their essence, it is necessary to repeat the experience more widely. What are we going to do next year. Join now!
All kinds of organic top dressings have been used for centuries, however, as the experiments described above have shown, they may not always be effective. Our experiments were carried out with bread. Where is the guarantee that other organic supplements of this type are just as ambiguous? The nuances of antagonistic relationships between plants and soil microbes, their dependence on weather conditions and soil fertility remains to be seen. Here, the microscope of Alexei Popov from Kazan (“Life in all its manifestations”, Gardens of Siberia, No. 11, 2013), and agrochemical analysis of the soil, and the simple ability to observe and analyze would be useful. This is the practical significance of our experiments, albeit carried out in small suburban areas.
One of the most important food crops in domestic agriculture is potatoes. It is grown in large quantities throughout the country. Land fertility and climate in different regions noticeably different. Comfortable conditions for growing there is not everywhere, but using fertilizers for potatoes, you can achieve high yields in any area, and on any soil.
One plant during the growing season consumes up to 100 g of potassium, 20 phosphorus and 50 nitrogen. Fertilizers for potatoes must be applied in much larger volumes than it consumes, since some of the nutrients do not reach the plant. Useful macro- and microelements steal weeds, and some of them dissolve in the soil complex and are removed along with evaporating moisture.
Autumn field preparation for potatoes
Gardeners usually get the largest potato yields when they just start to develop a site, in the first years after its development. Virgin soil is rich in all the nutrients needed to grow this root crop. But gradually the land becomes poorer. Potatoes need top dressing, which is applied both when preparing the soil for planting, and throughout the entire growing season.
Most often, fertilizers for potatoes are combined, combining organic matter and agrochemicals.
General recommendations for autumn application are as follows: per 1 sq.m. soils take 5-7 buckets of humus (or fresh manure, during the winter he will perepreet). In parallel apply mineral fertilizers. , which has a long period of transition of nutrients into the soil complex, is traditionally applied in the fall, about 30 g per sq. m. Phosphorus from the composition of this fat will have time to transform into a form accessible to plants by spring. Potassium sulfate is added together with phosphorus, at the rate of 15 g per 1 sq.m.
For fertilizer, you can use only agrochemicals, without organic matter. This is usually done on soils infested with pests or pathogens, for which manure is a favorable habitat. In autumn, in this case, you can apply double superphosphate, and potassium sulfate, in a ratio of 1: 2, since potatoes consume more.
After harvesting the tops on the potato field, you can plant green manure. But not all. Lupin, for example, will not even have time to ascend, and he will not want to, he does not like low temperatures too much. And the cultivation perfect option. Three weeks is enough for the formation of a sufficient amount of vegetative mass. With the onset of cold weather, green manure will fall down on their own, and in the spring they can be plowed along with the soil.
When the plot is prepared in autumn period, it is possible to make a deep digging of the earth, it is still loose after harvesting potatoes, it did not have time to cake. If the soil will be cultivated by a tractor, then it must be plowed and cultivated. When using a walk-behind tractor, the site is passed twice if the soil is clayey, and once if it is sandy. Manual digging is carried out to the full depth of the shovel bayonet. Large clods do not need to be broken - there are more chances that cold air will get to the roots of the weeds, and they will freeze.
If the soil in the area is acidic, then in the fall you can start restoring its normal balance. For this, dolomite flour, lime or is used. Application rate - 200 g per 1 sq.m. You can understand that the pH has changed by the appearance of sorrel, moss on the beds, as well as by the color of the soil, which turns blue when soured.
Spring top dressing
Potatoes do not tolerate stagnant meltwater and need good drainage, so the first task to be solved in the spring, when preparing the site for planting, is to ensure drainage excess moisture. For this, drain ditches are organized, and the site itself, if possible, is located on a hill. If the level ground water remains high, when planting potatoes form ridges, or ridges, on top of which it is planted. 
The most important element for spring plant nutrition is nitrogen. It is found in manure in huge quantities, which makes this organic compound the best fertilizer for potatoes. But the greatest yield increase is obtained with the combined use of organic and mineral fertilizers. There are many methods of their combined application, some of them are presented below. The dosage is calculated for 1 sq.m. soil:
- 1 bucket of humus, 1 glass of ash, 3 tbsp. nitrophoska;
- 20 g of ammonium nitrate, 20 g of potassium sulfate, make this mixture after plowing along with green manure;
- Peat manure (or compost), 20-30 g of nitrophoska plus inter-row dressing with ammonium nitrate (20 g) and potassium sulfate (20 g).
- 7-10 kg of humus mixed with ammonium nitrate (20 g), potassium sulfate (20 g), superphosphate 30-40 g, dolomite flour - 450 g.
- If there is no organic matter, you can use fats without additional components, for example, nitrophoska - 5 kg per hundred square meters, or - 3 kg per hundred square meters.
When applying agrochemicals together with manure, it should be taken into account that under early varieties potatoes must be applied large quantity fats than under late ones. Varieties with a short growing season simply do not have time to take everything necessary substances from organics. Then mineral fertilizers come to the rescue, which act much faster, and give necessary nutrition in full.
Micronutrient fertilizers, for example, molybdenum or copper, can be included in the feeding of potatoes, and boric fertilizers are used on soils containing lime. They help to assimilate the main nutrients, “polish” their effect on the plant body.
Fertilization at planting
It is believed that nested, spot application of top dressing when planting for each specific plant is much more useful and economical than scattering fertilizers across the field.
Fertilizers can be applied directly into the hole. For example, if the choice fell on organic matter, then a 700 gram jar of dry humus and 5 tablespoons are added to each well. ash (a handful that fits in the hand of an adult).
And when using agrochemicals, you can adhere to the following scheme: put 1 tbsp in each well. nitrophoska and 0.5 cups of bone meal.
For local application when growing potatoes, you can use ready-made fertilizers, for example, Kemiru. This mineral dressing is added to the wells at planting, in the amounts indicated in the instructions for use.
Root top dressing
This type of top dressing is usually done before hilling the bushes, after light loosening, so that the components of nutrient mixtures can more easily reach the roots of the plant. After fertilizing, you should always water the plantings abundantly.
- . Despite the aggressiveness of this fertilizer, it can be used even in fresh, diluting in a ratio of 1:10, and pouring the grooves between the rows of potatoes with this suspension.
- . A tablespoon of urea is dissolved in 10 liters of water, and the bushes are watered with this solution under the root, after light loosening, but before the first hilling. The application rate for one plant is 0.5 liters.
- . In a bucket of water (10 l), a liter of fresh cow manure is dissolved, fermented, and the aisles are shed.
- Herbal infusion. Prepared from any type of weeds growing on the site. Soak in a barrel of water, wait for the infusion to ferment, dilute until the color of weakly brewed tea is obtained, water the potatoes in the evening, around the perimeter of the hole. It is advisable not to touch the stem. It is best to carry out this top dressing of potatoes in June, when the plant actively consumes nitrogen.
- mineral fertilizers. Various agrochemicals are used for root dressings of potatoes, for example, a solution of ammonium nitrate (20 g per 10 liters of water). You can use a mixture of phosphorus and potash fertilizers in a ratio of 1: 1: 2, dissolving about 25 g of the mixture in 10 liters of water.
Foliar top dressing
Throughout the growing season, potatoes need nutrients. Just starting soil fertilization is not enough, since not all macro- and microelements go directly to the cultivated crop, a significant part of them is dissipated due to various reasons.
A good treatment method that allows you to bring nutrition directly to the plant itself is its foliar top dressing. It is best done after weeding the potatoes, in the evening, so as not to burn the leaves. With this method of applying fertilizers, they enter the plant body much faster and activate metabolic processes in it, significantly spurring its growth, development of the root system and, accordingly, significantly improving the quality and quantity of the crop. There are many types of potato feeding that have proven themselves well. Below are some of them: 
Carbamide
The following doses are recommended: water - 5 l, urea - 100 g, potassium monophosphate - 150 g, boric acid 5 g. Microelements - boron, copper, manganese, zinc and cobalt can be included in the fertilizer in minimum dosages, not more than 1 g per 10 l.
The first top dressing based on carbamide is carried out two weeks after the appearance of full shoots on the entire field. The working solution for it is diluted 2 times. The following dressings are carried out with the same composition, but undiluted. Between them it is necessary to observe an interval of two weeks. Continue processing until the onset of flowering potatoes.
Phosphoric
At the end of the flowering of potatoes, about a month before harvest, good results gives foliar top dressing (especially mid-season and late varieties) with superphosphate infusion (100 g of superphosphate per 10 liters of water - for spraying 10 sq.m.). Phosphorus applied as foliar feeding increases the yield and at the same time increases the starch content of potato tubers.
Humates
Plantings can be processed from the appearance of the 4th leaf on the plant, with periods between treatments - 2 weeks. You can use, for example, Humat + 7, the application rate is 3 liters per hundred square meters, the working solution is 2 g per 10 liters.
Nettle infusion
Potatoes need nitrogen, potassium, calcium, iron, which are contained in this fertilizer. It is very simple to prepare the infusion - together with the tops they are poured with water, and kept warm until complete fermentation. After that, the working solution is filtered, diluted and treated with a potato field, at intervals of 10 days.
Video: potato mineral nutrition
Disease and pest control
When growing potatoes, many gardeners traditionally limit themselves to the fight against the Colorado potato beetle, and finding spots, ulcers, and rot on root crops, they say that the potato is sick. Many do not delve into the reasons for what is happening, believing that this is the influence of weather factors. In fact, this is far from the case. This plant has many diseases and pests. Potatoes need protection measures against various negative factors throughout the entire growing season.
Preventive measures
It is always better to prevent a problem than to heroically deal with its consequences later. Therefore, in the spring Special attention pay attention to the protection of potatoes from common diseases and insect pests. The measures taken will greatly help to preserve the harvest and improve its quality indicators.
Protection during the growing season
Potatoes can also be mulched using sawdust. Under them, a favorable environment will be created for the reproduction of insects that destroy Colorado beetles, for example, ladybugs.
Dealing with the aftermath
- Before harvesting potatoes, it is necessary to remove diseased bushes from the field, and cut off the tops of healthy ones, otherwise the spores of the fungus can get from the stems to the tubers, infecting them.
- Sick potatoes can be eaten by removing the affected areas.
- Seed material before harvesting for storage must be prepared. For a successful wintering, potatoes need good drying in the sun and forced gardening.
Video: growing potatoes - seminar "Good harvest at minimal cost"
Potatoes are planted in soil rich in organic fertilizers. Ashes are poured into the holes, wilted grass, compost are laid, and even weeds are weeded between the rows.
Mustard, a vetch-oat nutrient mixture are sown between the rows, cut off, preventing it from blooming and left under the potatoes so that there is no open land. Rye and mustard, by the way, will be expelled from the wireworm site. If you sow green manure in the fall, you can not mow them, they themselves will rot and loosen, fertilize the site.
It is best to spray potatoes from beetles with Fitoverm, which is harmless to humans.
Wake up and fall asleep again
Looking for the most best ways to grow a good crop of tasty potatoes. You can’t plant potatoes early, when the earth has not warmed up, and you can’t plant them late, when the spring moisture is gone.
Tubers before planting are soaked in the Shining preparation, made from cereal bran.
Potatoes must be germinated before planting. But you can not do this in the sun or in the dark. Light and air are needed, cold and heat are dangerous, and it is better to carry out vernalization at a temperature of 18 degrees, for example, on the floor of a loggia. If you are late with vernalization and there is little time left before planting, then by raising the temperature, you can reduce the time. When sprouts and roots appeared, you need to sprinkle the tubers with wet sawdust with a layer of 3-4 centimeters, lower the temperature to 12 degrees to form a developed root system.
Before planting for a week, the potatoes need to be covered again from the light, the tubers should get used to the dark.
Don't dig holes
Potatoes don't need to be planted deep. heavy soils you can place it generally on the surface, covering it with mulch or straw. It is best to bury potatoes so that they top part was at ground level. Often you do not need to plant potatoes, the harvest will be smaller, and even smaller. The distance between tubers can reach half a meter. It is impossible to sow two potatoes, as many gardeners do. And you need to plant a cluster of sprouts down. Then the stems will come out wide from the ground, and this increases the yield, because each of them will give its own nest of potatoes. It is necessary to spud potatoes, without pressing one sprout to another, a shovel of earth must be thrown into the center of the bush in order to separate, and not to bring together a “bouquet”. Each "trunk" should receive as much light, heat and moisture as possible. No need to plant in the shade, under apple trees.
It is known that potatoes can be planted in parts, eyes and even sprouts. You can cut potatoes only across and immediately before planting. The cut is dipped in ash and dried.
Other ways to grow potatoes
potato pyramid
According to this method, the earth is not dug up in rows, but on each square meter vegetable gardens form a pyramid. A vertical hole is drilled from top to bottom - the potatoes are then watered through it. Potatoes are planted in a spiral. Such a bed is easier to process, weeds almost do not grow, and there is no need to spud. And they say the harvest is four times more than usual! Perhaps worth a try!
hay potatoes
Many gardeners, it turns out, grow potatoes in this way: tubers are laid out in rows on even, moist and warm ground, and then covered with dry hay (you can also use straw, mulch, weeds). The layer should always be about 25 cm (otherwise the potatoes will turn green). No weeding or watering required. Weeds cannot break through, moisture from the soil does not evaporate. In summer, you can carefully rake out the shelter, select larger young tubers for food and cover again. And in the fall to harvest a great harvest!
ADVICE
beans will help
It is good to plant beans with potatoes. On their roots there are small growths that release nitrogen, and it significantly increases the yield of potatoes, and the yield of beans is also good. This is done as follows: a bean is thrown into the hole along with a potato, and they grow together. Then the beans are harvested first, and then the potatoes are dug up. If there is still room in the garden, then cabbage can be planted there, it also gets along well with potatoes.
Beets and carrots grow well on potato plots.
Lunar clues
The harvest may depend on what day the grain is thrown into the ground.
Gardeners-gardeners resort to various tricks to grow a good crop on their site. The rhythms of nature play a significant role in this, in particular, the influence on all living things of the Moon. Even in ancient times, depending on its phase, our ancestors were able to determine favorable and bad days for planting. Let's follow their lead!
* Full moon and new moon are not conducive good harvest. On this day, it is better not to engage in agriculture.
* The phase of the waning moon is well suited for planting root crops (potatoes, carrots, beets, etc.) and pruning trees. And on the growing moon, it is better to plant those plants whose fruits ripen above the surface of the earth (tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage, greens ...)
* And of course, love the earth. After all, this is the main thing!
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