If you are planning to replace or insert new windows, you need to look into the installation process. It all depends on how you will install the windows: either with your own hands, or by attracting a third-party company. To make the dismantling and installation of the structure, it takes about 4 hours if you do not have experience in this matter. For a company employee who does this often, such work will take no more than an hour. But installing tilt-and-turn windows on your own requires building skills.

Complete set of window system

Before proceeding with the installation, it is necessary to understand the nuances and details. First you need to know all the names of parts and materials. The main bearing part is the frame. In the version of plastic windows, its production is carried out from a plastic profile, which can be single-chamber, two-chamber, etc. A special insert is placed in the center of the structure to ensure rigidity. In plastic systems, this insert is made of plastic; in metal-plastic systems, metal is used.

The profile system is assembled from 2 or more chambers

In addition, the profile is divided into classes: premium, standard and economy. All profiles manufactured at the factory are subject to certain standards. If you want to make a choice in favor of good tilt-and-turn windows, take the standard class. By color, white windows are most common, but other colors can be used: wood effect, brown. Products from a color profile will be more expensive than white.

Components of a plastic window

The main element of the window unit is the frame

The design of the plastic window includes the following details:

frame - the main structural part;
if you have a large window, most often it is separated by a vertical partition, there may be several of them - it all depends on the choice of design;
the part that is motionless is called deaf, and the one that opens is called the sash;
double-glazed windows can be with different properties, for example, tinted, energy-saving, reinforced, using an inert gas. In addition, they are single-layer, two-layer, three-layer or multi-layer - the choice is great;
in order for the glasses to hold securely, they are pressed with a glazing bead, which is a thin plastic bar. For tightness, a rubber seal is used, most often black;
fittings are always used - this is a special set of tilt-and-turn mechanisms that help open and close the doors and provide various functionality;
in addition, seals are needed to ensure the tightness of the entire structure;
on the inside of the frame, ventilated holes are made for drainage, which are covered with caps. The moisture formed during the temperature difference on the street and inside the room gets through them to the outside;
another part of the design is the ebb - it is mounted outside, and the window sill is installed from the inside;
parts located on the side of the frame are finished with slopes.

Is it possible to install the window yourself

There is an opinion that installing windows in a house or apartment is a rather complicated procedure. It must be said that this is not so. What do you need to know when installing? To perform these works, you do not need special professional tools and equipment, vast experience. The procedure includes two main points:

dismantling of the old window block;
installing a new window.

Dismantling the old window takes an average of 1.5 hours

If we talk about the time required to complete the work, then the first stage will take about an hour and a half. Do-it-yourself window installation will take less than three hours. I must say that if, nevertheless, you decide to opt for the services of specialists, then you should require certain guarantees from them.

If you have installed tilt and turn windows yourself, this will void your warranty. In this case, it is necessary to purchase designs directly from the manufacturer, who has been working on the market for a long time and has good reviews from customers. If you decide to buy single-chamber or double-chamber windows in the winter, you can always count on a significant discount.

When a window is purchased from a company that also carries out installation work, the customer has a guarantee for fittings of about 5 years. With self-installation, you can obtain a guarantee directly from the manufacturer, that is, at the place of purchase.

In order for windows to be installed in a brick house, cinder block, gas-block or apartment, you first need to order a tilt-and-turn or blind structure from the manufacturer, and this requires accurate measurements.

Step-by-step instructions for correct measurement

When you place an order, you will be required to specify the following dimensions: the width and height of the structure, the width and length of the slope and window sill.

Before ordering a window, it is necessary to correctly measure the design

Before you start measuring, do not miss an important point - what kind of opening do you have: with or without a quarter. Look carefully at the window opening: if the outer part is narrower, then you have a quarter opening in front of you. The measurement is carried out as follows: it is necessary to measure the narrowest part, it will be necessary to measure in several places, find the smallest value, add 3 cm to it. The height is indicated as it is. If your opening is even, then the measurements are done like this: after measuring the width, 3 cm is subtracted; having measured the height, minus 5 cm. Read the detailed article about.

Before measurements, you need to determine the type of window: with or without a quarter

To determine the dimensions of the window sill, you need to add about 10 cm to the width of the opening inside the window. For the ebb, the same is done, only along the outer part of the window. Everyone chooses the width for the window sill for themselves: it is better if it protrudes a little beyond the battery.

In addition, when placing an order, you need to decide what components your design will be made of: what options for two-, three- or single-leaf windows do you need, how they will open, on which side the capercaillie is located. Do not forget to decide on the type of fittings (handles, locks, ventilation mechanisms).

If you order several designs at the same time, then the width of all openings may be different, but the height must be the same, you must choose the smallest size. Please note that window openings can be located at different distances from the floor.. In apartments, from the floor to the window is about 80 cm, while on the balcony the windows can be from the floor. Accommodation in a private house can generally be any at the discretion of the owners.

Features of measurements for glazing balconies

To determine the width of the glass structure, it is necessary to measure in length that part of the balcony on which the balcony window will be installed, minus 7 cm from each side. This distance will be required for the installation of the corner profile, to which the structures of the side elements of the balcony are attached. The height is calculated as the distance from the support to the roof on the balcony or loggia, while subtracting a tolerance of 3 cm for the gap.

How to take measurements of windows in a country house

To correctly measure the dimensions of the structure in a private house, knock out part of the slopes on both sides. Very often it turns out that the window opening is much larger than the window that is installed in it. This means that during the dismantling of the structure, a part of the materials that filled the space will be simultaneously removed.

Preparing to install a window structure

After you take out the old window, you will need to inspect the resulting opening, remove all parts that can fall off or collapse, if there are protruding elements, they should be knocked down. Then clean the opening from construction debris and dust. If there are large recesses, it is better to cover them with cement. You can also treat everything with soil.

Base needs to be cleaned prior to installation.

Having finished working with the opening, you need to prepare a PVC window, the installation of which is to be. To do this, it is necessary to remove the window sashes, if it is deaf - double-glazed windows. If your frame has small dimensions, then you can install it without removing the double-glazed windows and sashes. The outer part of the frame should be freed from the film that protects it.

Installation Technology Guide

The finished plastic window is brought into the opening, placed on the support blocks and aligned horizontally. After that, using a level, the window is set vertically and fixed in this position with spacer blocks.

Installation of both blind windows and opening sashes is the same. There are two options for installing windows: with and without a structure. When applying the first option, holes are drilled through the frame through which anchor bolts are driven into the wall. This method is more complex and more reliable.

When installing a window by unpacking, holes are drilled in the frame and wall, where anchors are then driven in

Places for anchoring anchors and support blocks

If the installation is done without opening the frame, the window is fixed using special ones that are attached to the profile and then to the wall. This option is faster. However, it must be borne in mind that with significant wind loads, the frame structure may warp or it may sag. If you decide to mount on a plate, you should choose thick, wide options. Please note that if the region in which you live is characterized by a strong wind load or windows are to be installed at a height, then it is worth using the option of unbaking the frame.

Mounting on anchor plates

There are nuances for placing a window in an opening. If the walls are made of foam blocks, bricks, cinder blocks, gas silicate or concrete, then the frame is placed in a depth of 2/3 of the internal thickness of the opening. If the walls are insulated with foam, then the fastening must be done to the insulation layer. When insulating and facing with bricks, a window is installed in the insulation zone.

It is very important to choose the correct installation depth

The installation sequence must be followed:

inserting the frame, expose it to the level, using support and spacer blocks;
further attached to the wall;
after installing the structure, it is necessary to assemble the window;
then you need to check the normal operation of the shutters and all mechanisms, for this, open and close the window;
after everything is checked, the sashes must be tightly closed and the gap around the structure must be sealed. For this, apply.

However, it must be remembered that in direct contact with the sun's rays and the external environment, the material loses its properties and collapses. To protect it, you need to create it, it can be a special film that needs to be glued on the outside and inside of the window. After the foam has dried, it is necessary to finish the slopes on both sides (external, internal) of the structure. You can open the window a day after blowing the gap with foam.

In order for the correct installation to be done both on windows and, follow the simple rules:

we mount the ebb from the outside into a special slot in the frame or fasten it to it with self-tapping screws;
the window sill is installed as follows: it is necessary to cut it from the edges so that it fits in the width of the window opening and rests against the end of the support profile;
the level is leveled with special pads, after which the space under the window sill is blown with foam or filled with mortar.

According to the principle of the description above, windows are installed on a balcony or on a loggia, in brick or concrete walls. However, keep in mind that the entire weight of the window structure will be borne by the parapet, so you need to strengthen it.

Mistakes you can make when installing windows

There are a number of points that you should pay attention to when installing the structure so that it has a long service life:

it is impossible to install the window with glazing beads outward, as this reduces the burglary resistance of the structure, since the glazing bead can be easily pulled out and the double-glazed window removed;
you need to carefully consider the alignment of structures to the level during the installation of the window, otherwise opening and closing the sashes will be difficult;
be sure to protect the mounting foam from direct sunlight in order to avoid its destruction;
the choice of fixing the frame structure only with mounting foam will be wrong: it is imperative to mount it to the wall, otherwise it may simply fall out.

By following all the installation rules, you can successfully mount the window structure yourself, and if you turn to professionals for services, you can control their work at any stage.

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The correct arrangement of window openings is an important component that is necessary for any building. Any residential or commercial facility is equipped with windows: without them, ventilation and natural lighting of the premises is impossible. The strength and safety of the structure depends on how well the window opening is made. From this material you will learn what window openings are and how to create them correctly.

Building preparation

Not always window openings are created as walls are erected: sometimes they are obtained as a result of the partial destruction of the old wall. In this case, it will be necessary to carry out a set of measures aimed at preparing the walls for the formation of new window openings. Jumpers will be decorated during the construction process. For example, the masonry of the opening can be made of bricks.

The main element, thanks to which it is possible to create a window opening in the wall, is called a run. This is a solid element that rests on the edges of the walls and plays the role of a kind of bridge on which the rest of the wall above the future window will rest.

You can use the following elements to create a run:

Ready-made concrete lintels, they are produced by most concrete plants on an industrial scale.
Self-made concrete lintels.
Channel made of durable metal.
Standard corner for window openings.

How to choose a material to create a run?

The choice of material should be made not on the basis of what will be cheaper, but taking into account the future load that will fall on it.

There are materials that can withstand an equal load, but at the same time it will be more convenient to work with some. This should also be taken into account: the easier it is to mount the structure, the faster and cheaper you will solve your problem.

To correctly select the size of the run and calculate the load on it, you need to use the requirements of SNiP. They clearly set out the magnitude of the overlap. It must also be taken into account that the run should be somewhat wider than the window opening itself: for example, if the length of the opening is 1200 mm, then the run should be no shorter than 1600 mm.

Reinforcement

metal girders

Most often, when building a brick building, window openings are blocked using a metal channel. This is a convenient and durable material, the installation of which does not take much time. The main thing is to choose the right size of the part; you can cut off the excess on the spot with the help of a grinder. The size is selected as follows: if the piers are placed in half a brick, the channel should be 120 or 140 mm, if the structure has brick piers, it is more convenient to use a channel with a size of 240 or 270 mm. This will provide the most comfortable installation, give the structure sufficient strength.

However, when using a metal corner for window openings, it must be borne in mind that there are some restrictions associated with the load that can be given to the structure. When using a corner, the masonry of the walls and the opening must be firmly connected to each other, in addition, it is impossible to equip runs of great length.

When mounting a run from a corner, it should be positioned so that the edges of the metal must be in contact with the brick, which will be placed on top. The maximum allowable length of jumpers that are created from the corner is 1.5 meters. If the span is larger, the masonry above it will begin to sag due to the fact that the metal will bend.

The use of a concrete lintel

The arrangement of window openings using concrete lintels is associated with certain difficulties, however, this option is more durable and able to withstand a large load. It is possible to use two methods: buying a finished product, making a jumper yourself.

An industrial jumper is more difficult to install. The design weighs quite a lot, and you will have to hire a crane in order to deliver and lift it into place. However, this is where the complexity of installation ends. Once in place, the jumper will be ready for further use, and masonry can be continued immediately. The difficulty may also lie in the fact that factories produce only lintels of standard sizes, and the windows of the building may be of a different size or shape, in which case the finished product is not suitable for installation.

A homemade concrete jumper also has a number of disadvantages and advantages. It is relatively convenient to use this approach, since it is not necessary to lift the finished structure. It is poured directly on the spot, any size can be made depending on the type and features of the window opening. To create a jumper, you need to do the following:

From the surface of the window opening, you need to remove excess cement mortar, remove debris.
Prime the opening.
Mount the formwork where the jumper will be directly located.

The finished product, like the cement mortar, will have a fairly large weight. For the bottom of the formwork, it is required to use boards of at least 20 mm thick. Under them, you need to create special supports, they can be wooden. For reliability, the support rests against the cut of the window opening.

It is impossible to fill the jumper exclusively from concrete. Such a design will not have sufficient rigidity and will quickly become unusable. To give the desired strength, the future concrete partition is reinforced. To do this, you can use the reinforcement, interconnected, or a special mesh. After the reinforcement is done, you can start pouring the run, but keep in mind that you will need another reinforcing tab, which will be located inside the concrete.

When calculating the jumper, please note that the lower part of the formwork quite often remains in the opening, since it is not possible to dismantle it.

When pouring a run on your own, there is often a problem of seepage of concrete mortar between the boards. Boards that do not have a sufficiently reliable support can bend under the mass of concrete. You can get rid of the cracks by covering the bottom of the structure with cellophane. Watch carefully if the structure does not bend when pouring. If this happens, the pouring must be stopped and the bottom of the formwork sufficiently reinforced.

Window lintels

Masonry decoration

The window opening can be decorated with facing bricks. In this case, you can use a channel. Thus, the bearing part from the outside will be hidden from the eyes, it will be visible only from the side of the room, where it can be closed with plaster or other finishing material. A correctly installed jumper should not be visible from the facade.

If the wall is under construction, a special groove is left for the lintel, if the window opening is being created anew, then it will have to be punched in the existing wall. The jumper is inserted into the cavity, fixed in place with concrete. When the mortar dries, its excess must be removed, and you can start laying bricks.

Creating a jumper for a window opening is not the most difficult task. Both a professional and a summer resident who independently equips his house will be able to perform it. There are several options for runs that allow you to choose the most convenient and acceptable installation method.

Often, when performing repairs in the house, one has to face difficulties when installing an additional door or window. Of course, it cannot be said that this task is simple. Rather, on the contrary: both complex and responsible, but doable. Our article will tell you how to make an opening in a brick wall.

The opening in a brick wall should be approached with all responsibility, otherwise trouble cannot be avoided. First, figure out what type the wall intended for the installation of a new door or window belongs to, what is hidden inside it.

wall types

All of them are divided into 2 main types:

Carrier. Its very name suggests that it is loaded from above. In the event that you manage to find a plan of the house, you will easily find out where which walls are. If not, then focus on the following signs indicating that the wall is load-bearing:

exterior walls;
shared with neighboring apartments;
facing the landing;
walls on which the floor slabs rest on the smaller side;
the thickness of the brick wall is more than 380 mm.

2. Not bearing loads. They are ordinary partitions loaded only by their own weight.

Required details about the wall

Having decided which wall we have to deal with, we learn more about it:

Does hidden wiring run inside?
whether there are fittings or pipes in the wall;
is there a chimney and where is it located.

This information cannot be obtained by simple inspection, therefore it is necessary to use a metal detector. The detection of any obstacles does not mean at all that it is impossible to make an opening in a brick wall. Troubleshooting is simple:

we move the wiring to another place;
retreat from the chimney at least 300 cm;
with pipes, the matter is somewhat more serious; one cannot do without a specialist.

The size of the opening must comply with building codes.
The height of the opening in the bearing wall should not exceed 2.1 m, and the width 0t 0.7 m to 2 m. If the apartment is located on the ground floor, then the maximum width of the opening is limited to 0.9 m.
The location of the opening is the center of the wall.
Correctly, when the top of the opening in the brick wall coincides with the cement masonry joint.
When arranging a new door, make an opening for it so that there is a gap of 2.5 cm on the sides and 0.6 cm at the top between the door frame and the wall. The same rule applies when making window openings.
An opening up to 0.9 m wide does not need additional reinforcement. If the width is greater, then the wall must be strengthened. The opening device in the bearing wall is always accompanied by the installation of reinforcing structures.

How to make openings in brick walls

Armed with theoretical knowledge, we proceed to apply them in practice, but first we stock up on a tool:

perforator;
grinder with a diamond disc;
chisel;
trowel;
hammer;
jumper;
meter ruler, square, tape measure.

You can not start work without the necessary materials:

wooden beam;
corner at least 35x35 mm;
necessary components for concrete mortar;
boards;
hardware.

We start punching a doorway in a bearing brick wall

We perform work in the following sequence:

We expose the brickwork in the place of the future opening.
We mark up using a ruler and a large square.
We outline the places for the jumpers, and if the opening is wider than 0.9 m, then, stepping back 150 mm from the edge, we mark the installation points for the supports to strengthen the structure.
Cut off the corner 2 pcs. 30 cm longer than the width of the opening.
We install a diamond disk on the grinder and make cuts for the corners on both sides. Under the profile 40x40 mm we go deep by 40 mm.
We lay the corners in the formed niches, fix them with hairpins. The gaps are filled with cement mortar.
We make 2 more vertical and 6 horizontal slots along the perimeter of the planned opening on each side. Their depth is equal to the size of the corner shelf used to give greater strength to the opening.
We cut the corner that is inserted into the slots and fold the left and right elements in pairs.
We fasten 2 blanks with clamps, and make holes in each pair.
We first install the vertical and then the horizontal profiles in the slots and drill the wall through the holes in them. So in pairs we mount all the blanks.
We insert the screed into the prepared holes in the form of studs made of reinforcement with a minimum diameter of 1.2 cm. We fix them very tightly on each side with a complex fastening assembly consisting of a regular washer, an engraver and a nut.

Now that the loads on the wall are evenly distributed, you can proceed directly to punching. So, we continue the device of the opening in the brick wall:

we drill holes in several places with a puncher to loosen the masonry;
knock out bricks with a hammer or sledgehammer;
we beat off the protruding edges of the bricks, we clean the resulting opening from debris;
We perform welding of profiles, cleaning of welding seams, painting of the entire metal structure and sealing all gaps with cement mortar.

An opening in a brick wall is also performed in a slightly different way:

As in the first case, after marking in the wall, a strobe is made to install a jumper.
The channel is cut into 2 equal pieces and put into strobes on both sides of the future opening.
Holes are drilled with a diameter of 2 cm, the distance between the centers of which is 0.5 m. Bolts are inserted and the sections of the channel are pulled together.

If the wall is not load-bearing, then they immediately start punching the opening, and if you have to make an opening in the load-bearing brick wall, then you can’t do without reinforcement.

We install supports

Supports are constructed, stepping back from the wall 600-900 mm. As the material for their construction is used:

brick, laying columns out of it;
beams reinforced concrete, wooden, metal, jacks.

Window opening in a brick wall

As a rule, they arrange a window opening in a self-supporting brick wall. The work performed when arranging a window opening in a brick wall is similar to that provided for when punching an opening under a door:

Marking - better outside, if conditions allow.
Punching a strobe under a jumper.
Laying a jumper from a corner, channel or reinforced concrete beam. If the latter option is selected, then the hole is made through.
Marking the position of the beams outside.
Drilling the wall from the outside in order to transfer coordinates to the inside for installing studs.
Installation of studs made of wooden beams. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that their ends protrude equally from the inside and from the opposite side.
Installation of supports, followed by laying wooden beams on them to disperse the load.
Fixing the support structure with nails connecting the studs and support bars.
Removal of bricks in the place where the installation of the jumper is planned and the installation of the jumper itself.
Dismantling the first row of bricks under the lintel. It is correct when it is done on both sides.
Removing the rest of the brickwork and upholstering the exposed edges of the bricks. If you work with a diamond tool, then the opening will immediately turn out to be even.

And in conclusion: The arrangement of an opening in a bearing brick wall is a very responsible matter. Don't start doing anything until you have an approved project in hand. It is especially important to comply with this condition if you live in a multi-storey building. Due to your wrong actions, the structure of the entire house may be disrupted.

And here is a video on how to make an opening in a brick wall:

The load-bearing wall seems to be an insurmountable obstacle, however, modern technical means make it quite easy to make an opening for a door or window. We will talk about the technology of forming openings using a hand tool and the rules for strengthening it.

General technology

Making an opening is a responsible technological operation associated with the risk of destruction of building structures and danger to life and health. Therefore, all work must be carried out in strict accordance with the regulations. The process of cutting the opening itself consists of three stages:

Marking, and if necessary, coordination and approval of the reorganization plan.
Direct dismantling of a part of the building structure.
Strengthening the opening, if we are talking about working with a main wall.

A professional approach involves the use of special wall-cutting equipment, however, you can make an opening yourself, using only hand tools: a puncher, angle grinder and additional equipment for them, it is also desirable to have a construction vacuum cleaner. The complexity of the process will be higher, however, with the right approach, you can achieve a neat design of the perimeter, subsequently spending a minimum of effort on finishing.

The main difficulty of working with a hand tool is the impossibility of making a cut line in one technological operation. The cutting depth of the angle grinder is 60-80 mm, therefore, to make an opening in an interior partition, at least trimming is required on both sides. If we are talking about a main wall, it is necessary to carry out a stepped excavation of the material, each time developing a wide groove for access to the cutting zone by the power tool. When a through cut is made along the perimeter of the opening, the core is felled, fragmented and removed in parts weighing 10-15 kg.

wall material

There is a huge difference in what material the wall is made of. When cutting and crushing, brick, concrete and gas silicate behave differently, this must be taken into account when dismantling.

If you have to deal with aerated concrete, the impact method of destruction is not very good, with the help of a perforator you can only make a chaotic system of holes. It would be much more correct to make a large hole in the corners of the opening, and then cut along the marking line with a conventional hacksaw or tape blade for aerated concrete.

The brick pricks well, so the best way to work is cutting along the contour of the strobe opening, followed by crushing the core. Similarly, it is better to do with hollow thin-walled materials like cinder block: a preliminary cut will make it easy to ennoble the opening after making the passage.

It is most difficult to make an opening in monolithic concrete walls. For apartment partitions up to 100 mm thick, the best way is contour cutting with a diamond blade along the combined markings on both sides. Cutting is carried out "on the run" to form technological gaps that allow free extraction of the core. The main problem is rebar, for cutting which the gap can be expanded to 80-100 mm. It should be noted that cutting openings in structural concrete of strength class B30 and above can only be performed with special wall-cutting equipment; in such cases, the impact method of dismantling is prohibited.

Openings in interior partitions

Partitions up to 100-150 mm thick are easier to cut, but this requires careful alignment of the markings, because cutting is carried out from two sides. To align the markup, two control points are sufficient - the upper corners of the opening, in which through holes are drilled. When working, you need to carefully monitor the perpendicular position of the drill.

The control points must be connected with a horizontal line, and two vertical ones on both sides must be discarded with a plumb line. After that, with an indent of 15-20 mm, cutting lines are drawn on both sides of the contour marking. In the room where it is planned to excavate and disassemble the core, the markings should be indented 10-15 mm more to form a wedge-shaped gap.

Along the outer marking lines, a grinder is cut to the entire effective depth of the disk. You can prick the core of the strobe with a chisel and even a manual one, driving it into one of the cuts. To select the material from the groove, it can be recommended to crush it by drilling holes of 20-24 mm in the central part of the cut in increments of 10-15 cm - such fragments are easily removed with a hammer.

Openings in load-bearing walls

Difficulties when working with permanent structures are mainly due to their considerable thickness: even with a two-sided approach, overlapping of the cuts is not ensured. Therefore, there are only two options for making an opening in a load-bearing wall: contour drilling and stepped trimming.

It is reasonable to drill an opening along the perimeter with a wall thickness of more than 250 mm, when the cutting method becomes irrelevant due to the large number of steps. For contour drilling, it is necessary to temporarily attach two bars 40x40 mm to the wall, the gap between which is the same throughout and is 14-18 mm. With a drill of the same diameter, it is necessary to drill in increments of 20-30 mm, holding the tool strictly horizontally. Next, drilling is performed at an angle of 30-45 ° to weaken the walls between the holes. For the same purpose, you can pre-expand the holes with a drill of a larger diameter.

Removal of remnants of bonds is carried out with a perforator - impact work to clear the cut is allowed even in structural concrete, but reinforcement cannot be cut in this way. It must be cleaned of concrete and a bite to eat using a bolt cutter, or sawn with a hacksaw. Before the rebars are cut, it makes sense to split the core with several drilling lines to make it easier to dismantle.

Important! Unlike a professional tool, a household tool is not designed for continuous long-term work, it needs to be rested in accordance with the set switching time.

Strengthening the opening

Please note that the manufacture of openings in the load-bearing walls of apartment buildings is allowed, but only if the reconstruction is agreed upon and the project is approved to comply with the technical conditions. One of the mandatory requirements in such cases is to strengthen the opening to restore the bearing capacity of critical structures. And although it is not necessary to develop a project for the reconstruction of a private house, strengthening must still be carried out.

It is made with angle steel, the flange width of which is at least 1/4 of the wall thickness. The upper crossbar is inserted into a pre-made cut. Along the plane of the wall, segments of a steel strip are welded to it, which are fastened with a through or anchor fastening to the pillar of the wall at least 20 cm from the top of the opening. The length of the horizontal jumper must be greater than the width of the manufactured passage by at least a third on each side. After installing the top rail, you can make vertical cuts and remove the core. After that, the corners of the jumper are fastened together with steel strip inserts, butt-welded to the corner. In the same way, the side faces are strengthened by setting the corners in the support of the jumper.

In some cases, when the dimensions of the opening exceed the normal ones, as happens when two rooms are combined, it is reinforced not with rolled materials, but with frame structures and trusses. After that, the reinforcement system is sheathed with gypsum plasterboard, due to which it is possible to completely hide the metal structures without disturbing the interior.

What you need to know about window openings - 4 important rules for a novice builder

In modern housing construction, few people adhere to established standards and restrictions on window openings, so each owner of housing under construction tries to choose their shape and size based on their own taste and personal preferences.

In some cases, this approach leads to the fact that an already finished window suddenly turns out to be too small or too large, and sometimes even turns out to be installed in the wrong place.

In order to avoid such situations, in this article I propose to consider the main issues regarding the correct choice of the type and location of windows, as well as common standard sizes of window openings for residential and utility rooms.

Rule 1. What criteria should the window meet

For those homeowners who wish to equip their future home with window openings in accordance with GOST, I recommend that you familiarize yourself with the regulatory and technical document GOST 23166-99 “Window blocks. General technical conditions". At the same time, I want to warn you right away that this document contains a lot of specialized technical information, which in most cases may turn out to be incomprehensible and useless for many private developers.

So that the reader does not puzzle over this issue, then I will try to explain in an accessible language the main provisions of the current State Standard for windows:

When choosing technical characteristics for a future window opening, first of all, you need to be guided by the room in which the window will be located and for what purposes it will be used;
The total glazing area of one or more window openings should provide free transmission of the required amount of natural sunlight, which should be sufficient to avoid the use of artificial lighting during daylight hours;
All sizes according to GOST window openings, in principle, are standardized, however, in accordance with current standards, they can vary within a fairly wide range. Therefore, in the next section, I plan to pay more attention to this issue.

The sound insulation class, air permeability and water tightness class, light transmission coefficient, heat transfer resistance value, and sound insulation value must be within the established limits of this normative technical document;
The estimated service life of wooden and plastic frames should be at least 20 and 40 years, respectively, the service life of fittings and double-glazed windows should be at least 20 years, and the service life of a set of rubber seals should be at least 5 years.
The number of opening / closing cycles of swing or sliding doors, while maintaining normal performance, must be at least 20,000.

During the design and construction of a house, I recommend using standard sizes of window openings for plastic windows, since the manufacture of irregularly shaped or custom-sized double-glazed windows can be much more expensive.

Rule 2. Typical dimensions of window openings in apartment buildings

Window and door openings in apartments of multi-storey buildings are part of the outer load-bearing walls of the building, therefore, changing their size, or making any other changes to the design, is strictly prohibited by the current Building Regulations and Rules (SNiP). At the same time, in order to replace or install new windows, homeowners need to know at least the approximate size of the external glazing in all rooms of the apartment.

In most cases, each type and each series of multi-storey buildings have standard windows, and to make it easier for the reader to navigate, then I will give the approximate dimensions of window openings in typical residential apartments:

The houses of the old housing stock, built at the beginning of the last century, are distinguished by elongated rooms, thick walls and high ceilings, so the window openings in such houses most often have a rectangular vertical shape and are quite large:

In such apartments, the width of a single-leaf window can be from 850 to 1150 mm, and the average height is about 1900 mm, but sometimes it can reach 2100 mm;
Two wings usually have the same height, but their width can be from 1200 to 1500 mm;
Three-leaf windows are not common, while their maximum dimensions can reach 2400x2100 mm.

The so-called "Stalinist houses", which were built in the period from the 30s to the 60s of the last century, in addition to high ceilings, are distinguished by large and spacious rooms with a separate layout, so single-leaf windows in such apartments are almost never found:

Double-leaf windows have two standard sizes: 1150x1950 mm, and 1500x1900 mm;
For three-leaf windows at that time there was one standard - 1700x1900 mm.

Typical five-story residential buildings that were built in the period from the early 50s to the mid-80s of the last century are commonly called "Khrushchevs". They have a cramped, uncomfortable layout with small kitchens and small walk-through rooms, and the standard ceiling height is no more than 2500 mm. For the manufacture of windows in such apartments, two standard sizes were used, and they are easy to determine even without a tape measure, according to the shape and width of the window sill:

If the window has a wide massive window sill, then its dimensions are 1450x1500 mm for a two-leaf opening, and 2040x1500 mm for a three-leaf opening;
In apartments with a narrow window sill that practically does not protrude beyond the plane of the wall, the dimensions of two-leaf and three-leaf windows are 1300x1305 mm and 2040x1350 mm, respectively.

Newer Brezhnevka houses were built in the 70s and 80s, along with the Khrushchevs, and their main positive difference lies in the improved layout and larger kitchen area. Typical projects of such houses have several series, and in each series the window sizes are slightly different from each other:

Of all the Brezhnevkas, the 600th series is distinguished by the largest windows, since in such apartments the two-leaf opening has dimensions of 2380x1420 mm, and the three-leaf opening - 2690x1420 mm;
In the 602 series, a two-leaf window has a size of 1210x1450 mm, and a three-leaf window has a size of 2100x1450 mm;
The 606th series has the smallest windows: two-leaf - 1450x1410 mm, and three-leaf - 1700x1410 mm.

Modern new buildings are considered to be apartment buildings that were built from the 90s of the last century to the present. Typical projects of modern houses are presented in more than 40 different series, so I will give the dimensions of window openings for several of the most common typical series:

137th series two doors - 1150x1420 mm, three doors - 1700x1420 mm;
504th series two doors - 1450x1410 mm, three doors - 1700x1410 mm;
504D series two doors - 1420x1100 mm, three doors - 1420x2030 mm;
505th series two doors - 1410x1450 mm, three doors - 1410x2030 mm;
600.11 series two doors - 1410x1450 mm, three doors - 1410x2050 mm;
The 600D series has only two sashes, in which case the dimensions of the window openings can be 1420x2680 mm, 1100x2360 mm or 1420x2360 mm.

I want to remind you that all the presented dimensions are approximate, and are intended for an approximate calculation of the cost of manufacturing new windows. I strongly do not recommend using the indicated values when ordering window frames, since in each case, all measurements for a plastic window must be carried out directly at the installation site.

Rule 3. Dimensions and location of windows in private houses

When designing and building private houses, I advise you to choose the size and shape of window openings taking into account the requirements of the same regulatory document GOST 23166-99 “Window blocks. General technical conditions". At the same time, I should note that private developers have more room for maneuver, since this document does not establish any rigid framework and restrictions:

In order not to violate the conceptual style of the project of a residential building, when developing the size and number of window openings, one must take into account the height of the ceilings, the total number of floors, the area and width of each room, as well as other architectural features of the building;

The optimal height and width of windows should be determined based on the total area of \u200b\u200bthe room, and the required level;
Glazing area and standard sizes of window openings in private houses are regulated by SNiP P-A862. According to the requirements of this standard, in residential and sleeping quarters, the total area of the light opening should be at least 1/8 of the total area of \u200b\u200beach room;
For glazing non-residential and household premises, these dimensions in a private house can be reduced up to 4 times. Thus, in a toilet, bathroom, pantry or boiler room, the window area can be no more than 3% of the total area of the room;

In regions with a cold climate and a short daylight hours, the direction of the windows is best oriented to the south or southwest side of the house;
In a hot climate with a large number of sunny days a year, for less influence of the sun on the internal microclimate, windows should be located on the north or east side of the house;
The ease of use and functional qualities of windows in various rooms largely depend on the height at which the window sill is located relative to the level of the finished floor. From my own experience, I recommend using the following values:

In the living room, bedroom or children's playroom, the optimal height from the floor level to the window sill is 700-900 mm. This size provides a good panoramic view and the most efficient transmission of natural sunlight;
For the kitchen, the height of the window sill can be from 800 to 1200 mm. This is due to the fact that the window sill should be flush with the sink and countertops of kitchen furniture;

In a toilet, bathroom or bath, it is customary to make the height of the window sill at least 1600 mm. This is done in order to ensure high-quality natural ventilation, and at the same time make it as difficult as possible for unauthorized persons to peep at the residents during intimate procedures;
On insulated balconies, verandas and closed summer terraces, the window sill board should lie on top of the side railing, while its height can be from 700 to 1100 mm.
In household and utility rooms, the light opening is usually made in the form of a low window or a wide horizontal window, which is set at a level of 1600-1800 mm from the floor.

When choosing a place to install windows in a country house, I advise you to pay attention not only to technical aspects, but also to the aesthetic side of the issue. There are no trifles in this business, for example, neat beautiful brickwork and stylish exterior decoration of window openings have a significant positive effect on the appearance of the facade, and on the aesthetic appearance of the whole house as a whole.

Rule 3. Features of the arrangement of window openings in a brick house

To arrange a window in the wall of a brick house, in accordance with the technical design, starting from a given height, several rows of bricks are not laid, as a result of which a window opening is formed in the brickwork.

In order not to go into the technical details of the work of masons, below I will talk about what a quarter is in a window opening, what it is used for, and how to make an opening for a wooden or metal-plastic window in a brick house.

I want to say right away that the width of the opening on the inside of the house should always be made a few centimeters wider than the design dimensions of the window frame. Thus, in the top view, a ledge is formed in the side walls, which is called a quarter;

During installation, a wooden or plastic window frame is installed from inside the house into the slope extension, and rests with its front part against the rear edge of the quarter;
Thus, high-quality thermal and waterproofing of the window is ensured. This is achieved due to the fact that cold wind and slanting rain from the street cannot directly penetrate the gap between the outer slope and the window frame.
After the laying of the side walls is completed, it is necessary to lay the top window slab on the top row of bricks. It is a horizontal jumper, which should take on the load from all other rows of bricks and ceilings located above the window opening;
As a jumper, a thin reinforced concrete beam 250-300 mm wide, a metal channel or a thick-walled steel corner with a section of at least 120x120 mm are most often used;

The main disadvantage of steel lintels is that the metal has a high thermal conductivity, so the so-called cold bridges are formed above the windows. To minimize the likelihood of low temperatures entering the house, the decorative finish on the outside of the house should be made using heat-insulating materials;
The lintel should be of such length that after laying it completely covers the window opening, and comes from above the side brick walls by at least 100 mm on each side;
After installing the jumper, I advise you to once again check the conformity of the dimensions of the window opening, and then proceed with the further laying of the next rows of bricks above the window opening;
Installation of window blocks, sealing the remaining gaps and finishing inside is usually done at the very end, after the whole house is built and the roof is mounted, so I plan to talk about installing windows separately in the next article.

In order to make an arched window of a semicircular or oval shape with my own hands, I advise you to use two metal corners or a channel of a suitable section as a ceiling. To do this, in one of the shelves of each corner, or in two narrow shelves of the channel, with the help of a grinder, make many deep cuts at a distance of 50-100 mm from each other. After that, any profile metal rolling will be easy to bend into an arc along the desired radius.

Rule 4. Arrangement of a window opening in an aerated concrete house

The manufacture of window openings in an aerated concrete house is generally carried out according to the same principles as in brick houses. The exception is load-bearing elements and upper horizontal lintels, since they are cast from monolithic reinforced concrete directly at the installation site.

For the manufacture of vertical load-bearing elements of the house, special hollow aerated concrete blocks are used. After they are installed on top of each other, a vertical cavity is formed inside them in the form of a well;

Such blocks perform the functions of fixed formwork.. Reinforcement is installed inside the resulting well, and then liquid concrete mortar is poured to the very top;
After the concrete solution hardens, a monolithic reinforced concrete column is formed inside the aerated concrete blocks, which has a high bearing capacity. I recommend initially laying such columns in the project, and placing them in the corners of the house, as well as along the edges of wide window and door openings;
The upper window slabs have a similar internal structure, only U-shaped open-top blocks made of heavy grades of aerated concrete are used as fixed formwork for pouring concrete mortar.

Inside the finished window opening, vertical supports from scraps of thick bars or steel pipes must be installed and rigidly fixed;

Fix a thick, even board flat on top of them, and then lay out the U-shaped blocks in such a way that they form the upper edge of the window opening with their lower plane;
In the resulting hollow gutter, you need to lay the reinforcing cage, and weld its ends to the protruding bars of the reinforcement of the vertical columns, and then fill the entire gutter to the top with liquid concrete mortar;
After the solution hardens, a rigid bulkhead of monolithic reinforced concrete is formed above the window opening, closed on all sides by aerated concrete blocks.

In aerated concrete houses, the preparation of window openings for the installation of PVC windows can begin only after the final solidification and maturation of the monolithic-concrete mixture. Depending on the brand of concrete solution, this period can last from 14 to 28 days.

Aerated concrete has an open, finely porous structure, due to which it strongly absorbs moisture, therefore, under the influence of precipitation, it can crack and collapse over time. To prevent this from happening, I advise you not to waste time, and immediately after construction, perform a protective and decorative design on the outside of aerated concrete houses, using hydrophobic moisture-repellent finishing materials.

Conclusion

In this article, I talked about installing windows in brick and aerated concrete houses, and deliberately did not mention wooden log cabins here, because installing windows and sealing in a wooden house is a topic for a completely separate article. The fact is that during the construction of log cabins and frame-panel houses made of wood, it is necessary to take into account a lot of specific points that are not inherent in houses made of mineral building materials.

To visually consolidate the information received, I recommend watching the attached video in this article, and if you have any comments or suggestions, I am ready to discuss them in the comment form.

September 22, 2016

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Examples of brickwork around windows. How to make an opening in a brick wall, a door and a window opening in a load-bearing wall, video. Components of a plastic window