Simple homemade clamps - clamps for gluing carpentry panels. How to make clamps from wood, plywood, metal Clamps for making wooden shields

The master from Snezhinsk shared with me the recipe for making these clamps. Artem Laskov. They are intended for fixing plots, which, after the glue dries, become furniture boards. Such clamps are long enough, that is, they have a large span of sponges (factory ones are indecently expensive), but you need not two or three of them ... Therefore, it is better to make them for yourself on your own, which is what we will do.

So, for work we need: hardwood timber (for example, birch, beech, etc.). Pipe 25 mm., or 25 mm in diameter, mortise nuts with bolts of the appropriate diameter, a long bolt (stud) and a decorative nut (with a rounded knob).

So, the base of the clamp is a 25 mm pipe. Cut off a piece of the desired length.

We cut the bar according to the size of the sponges, for example, in pieces of 150-200 mm. On the one hand (stepping back from the edge of 20 mm, we drill a 25 mm hole, and preferably 25.5 mm - so that the beam moves more freely through the pipe). From this end, parallel to the hole, we make a cut, connecting the end and the hole (so that you can pull off its edges and fix the sponge on the pipe).

Behind the hole (to the side of it and from the cut), we drill another hole, for example, with a diameter of 8 mm - under the drive nut). We drive a nut into it, respectively, and on the other hand we twist the bolt. Now, having tightened the bolt, we clamp the pipe in the hole and the sponge is fixed in this position. If you need to move it - unscrew the bolt, move it where necessary and do the operations in reverse order.

Now let's move on to the clamping part (bottom). It has two parts-sponges. The lower one, which is more massive, has exactly the same structure as the upper one, only it is supplemented with one more driving nut from the end opposite from the pipe, into which a stud with a decorative nut is screwed. On the opposite side, it is desirable to make a "lamb" on the hairpin. For example,

The second part is movable - it is less massive, does not have any clamping elements (nuts, cuts, etc.), it is only advisable to make a small recess under the stud.

and one more explanatory photo.

It should turn out something like this.

The clamp works as follows: we breed the extreme sponges 2-3 cm wider than the expected width of the future shield. We fix it on the pipe by lighting the side nuts. We put the blanks, put them on the tubes, coat them with glue, after which, by rotating the "lamb", we tighten them together. It is desirable to arrange the clamps in a checkerboard pattern (see photo) so that the tubes support the plane of the plot (see photo).

The main advantages of this design are ease of manufacture and price, that is, you can make them as much as you need, without spending much money - what you need for garage carpentry.

Currently, the industry offers clamps or clamps various designs. But they are too large and costly. Therefore, for a home carpentry workshop, you can make a clamp with your own hands.

With the help of a home-made wyma, you can perform gluing furniture panels and other carpentry work.

Making a clamp with your own hands

The basis of the design of a homemade clamp is a strong load-bearing beam. It is made from a profile pipe of rectangular or square section. Also, the beam can be made from metal profile: corner or brand.

The supporting beam must have high strength and resistance to bending loads. This is necessary so that during operation the clamp structure does not bend or deform.

To compress the furniture board, you need to make a lot of effort. Therefore, if the supporting beams do not have sufficient strength, they will be bent along with the workpiece.

If the furniture board, which will be made on the haym, must be large, then, accordingly, the material for the base must be selected the most durable. In the design of the wyma, all stops and screws are located above the carrier beam. Therefore, the higher the stops and screws are, the stronger the bending loads acting on the entire structure will be. To do this, the clamp must have a very strong base.

During the work of the wyma, a lot of pressure will be exerted on all stops. Therefore, the stops must be designed for a large load. Otherwise, they may bend.

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Materials and tools

• profile pipe rectangular section;
• screws;
• nuts;
• stops;
• wooden pads;
• welding machine;
• Bulgarian;
• building level;
• squares.

The fastening of the stops to the beam must be strong and be able to move quickly in the longitudinal direction.

The furniture panels to be clamped in the device can be of different widths. In the process of work, it is not always possible to attach workpieces with screws different sizes. Therefore, it is necessary to create the possibility to move the clamps.

All screws must have the required strength. Nuts must be of reinforced construction. They can be purchased at construction stores. You can order the manufacture of these parts in a turning workshop. It is also necessary to order a turner to make stops for screws of the required sizes.

If you buy ready-made screws, you will have to make a groove to install and secure the clamps.

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Stages of work

Start making a clamp with your own hands. It is necessary to prepare a profile pipe of rectangular section with dimensions of 60x30x3 mm. The length of the pipe should be 120 cm.

These dimensions for carrier beam were chosen due to the fact that it is often necessary to glue sheets of large sizes or to make wooden doors. Therefore, the clamp must be of such dimensions that it is possible to fix workpieces of such large dimensions in it.

Too large workpieces are rarely performed. In most cases, furniture panels of small sizes and intermediate platforms for stairs will be made. It is necessary to foresee measures in advance so that during the manufacture of the shield, glue does not get on the surface of the device.

In cases where the length of the wyma does not allow large workpiece, you need to glue such a shield in parts. First, workpieces of such a width are glued together that can be clamped in a clamp. Then a wide blank is assembled from narrow shields. For this, movable clamps are used.

Then you need to make screws and nuts. The screw is made of a hexagon 300 mm long with a section of 28 mm. He must have metric thread 2 cm. The nut is made in the form of a 32 mm hexagon, 60 mm long.

Gaskets 1 cm thick are placed under the nuts. Then welding is performed. After that, a clamp is made from metal rod 5 cm

It is undesirable to perform a clamp having a smaller diameter. Otherwise, it will push through the wooden spacers that are placed between the workpiece and the clamp. If you do not use spacers, you can deform the workpiece.

It is necessary to drill a hole of 1 cm in the end of the screw from the side of the clamp. 2 ball bearings are installed in this hole in order to reduce friction.

Then the nuts are welded on. Make sure that the screw is parallel to the profile. Otherwise, the workpiece will be pressed through.

It is necessary to completely tighten the screw with the nut. Then a clamp is put on the groove. After that, gaskets are placed under it.

With the help of the level, make sure that the parts are located strictly parallel. Parts are fixed and then welded.

Welding is performed small seams so that when the metal is heated during welding, deformation of the material is prevented.

Then clamps are made from a corner measuring 60x60 mm. Weld the corner to the profile. The profile is welded from two corners. They are adjusted so that there is the possibility of free movement and at the same time that there are no large gaps.

Fasten clamps. To do this, drill holes with a diameter of 12 mm. They put pins in them. Thanks to this, you can quickly change the position of furniture parts during manufacture.

If in the process of work the workpiece turns out during compression, then the reason for this may be the non-perpendicular position of the stop with respect to the carrier beam. Therefore, you need to check correct location details using squares and a building level.

Then a hole is drilled, a thread is made and a screw is screwed. The correct position of the workpiece can be adjusted with a screw.

When drilling holes, take into account that the screw with a movable stop moves 200 mm. When fixing the fixed stop, the distance between the holes must be 150 mm. Otherwise, there may be areas in which the workpiece does not fit.

First, a through hole is made on the clamp. After that, install it in its place, press it with a clamp. Then, through this hole, the profile of the supporting beam is drilled. In this way, precise bonding of parts can be performed.

You can make a wyma in which you can press the shield to the carrier profile. This design is more reliable, but more difficult to manufacture.

This completes the work on making a homemade clamp.

The design of the clamp allows you to perform high-quality gluing work furniture panels various sizes and thickness.

With its square nested design, shield making is a very common task in carpentry. In fact, trees of such thickness as to cut out of them, let's say, a countertop, are not so common and there are not enough of them for everyone. Furthermore - wide boards, often, specially chopped into small pieces and re-glued. This greatly reduces the likelihood of their warping and cracking in their subsequent, furniture incarnation.

The gluing process itself contains a number of important points- thickness, orientation of layers, thickness of glue, which will be discussed later, now, we are talking about a mechanism for convenient compression of pre-prepared wooden blanks. This is a specialized clamp - wyma. To glue one shield, use at least two clamps.

Here it should be said that there is a way to fasten blanks with such “teeth”, which allows increasing the bonding area and, accordingly, its strength. Practice, however, shows that since the use of "samovar" wood glue from dry tiles, the chemical industry has stepped far forward, and now, any gluing of even ends is stronger than the main tree. In any case, their coniferous varieties, from which shields are usually glued. Therefore, planing is quite enough.

So here are the options.

Analysis of existing analogues.

The decision "on the forehead". It is more convenient than gluing directly on the workbench, but not by much. The only plus is the simplicity of the design. The base, however, must be very rigid, especially when, however significant the length may be.

When gluing, additional simple carpentry clamps and an even rail along the width of the shield are required to prevent it from bending under load. However, if not frequent work, the design is quite justified, some complication of technology, it is quite possible to survive.

symmetrical design. In general, it follows logically from the previous one, simple. The end stops are movably attached to two even sidewalls. When an axial force is applied, the sidewalls are simultaneously compressed.

Several options for end stops.

The blue version, in addition to painting, is notable for the fact that most of the details are standard - large hardware, a rectangular pipe.

There was even a kind of DIY kit. "Teeth" for stepwise change in the width of the workpiece, will make it easier to push the mechanism onto the workpiece. The most dimensional and inconvenient parts in storage and transportation are proposed to be made independently from solid wood. Therefore, the set, presumably, is worth a penny.

Practice, however, shows - how not to be careful, there will still be glue on the clamps, which can be torn off from the glands without damaging them, even in very rough ways, up to the use of angle grinders. Wooden parts, however, will either have to be protected with rough wood gaskets, or simply changed often. Either way, it's not very convenient.

Homemade metal analogue.

It can be seen that special stops are not provided here, therefore, in order not to spoil the edges of the future shield with dents, a technological gasket made of wood is placed.

Less obvious clamp design - asymmetric. The solution is ingenious, simple and elegant.

Our answer to Chamberlain.

MASHKOV: Astronauts! Which zappa is here?
BI: There rusty nut, native.
MASHKOV: Everything here is rusty!
BI: And this one is the most rusty one.

Kin-Dza-Dza!

I offer my version of symmetrical clamps. The clamps are made without the use of stationary equipment - only hand tool. Electric welding was used a little, but this is more from the delight of a neophyte - in those days, he was just mastering welding inverter and applied the new skill wherever possible.

The materials were only standard hardware and two types of rolled metal - a rectangular pipe and a strip. Four identical wyms were made, with their help, many different blanks were glued together, both of a purely utilitarian nature and for decorative ones.

The size of the clamps is for boards of moderate size, with a maximum width of about 700 ... 750 mm, however, you can connect the clamps in pairs and glue the boards of fair sizes in two steps. The length of the shield, depending on the number of clamps and with four pieces, can reach 1 ... 1.5 m. A number of symmetrical holes on the sides of the clamp allows you to easily rearrange its back stop, for convenient work when tightening narrow shields.

The design of the upper screw clamp is simple and technological, the materials for it are also standard rolled metal and hardware, which is a great advantage in the absence of access to machine tools.

The body of the screw clamp is made from a segment of the same rectangular pipe 40x25, inside it, an M12 extension nut is placed.

The nut is held only by the threaded stud and the body walls, the narrow side of the body prevents the nut from turning. When unscrewing the stud, the nut simply falls out of the body. The solution is very maintainable - in case of damage to the thread, the elements are easily replaced with standard inexpensive hardware.

The back stop is also made of a piece of pipe 40x25 mm, held by two pairs of earrings. To compensate for the thickness of the "overlap", under one of the pairs, two standard M10 washers are placed on each side (see photo below).

"Compensation" washers.

What was used to work.

Tools, equipment.

Set of ordinary metalwork tool, good vise, hand electric drill. Marking tool - tape measure, square, scriber or alcohol felt-tip pen. For cutting pieces of iron - angle grinder. Useful electric sharpener. Welding was used in some places, but you can do without. When working with power tools, be sure to wear safety goggles and earplugs.

Materials.

Rectangular pipe 40x25, strip, threaded stud M12, bolts, nuts, washers M10.

Let's get started. Sidewalls.

Decide on required quantity clamps and purchase the necessary materials.

We cut pieces of a rectangular pipe, mark, mark the centers of the holes. If you have a machine, you can drill from one side, through, but if you work with a hand tool, it is better not to be too lazy and additionally mark-drill the reverse side. Holes in metal, of a relatively large diameter, are best drilled at low speeds. It is convenient to work with a hammer drill in drilling mode, while its clamp is supplied with a small three-jaw drill chuck with a simple adapter. Often, such equipment is included in the puncher kit. High power and low speed, make the work of such a tool very convenient.

After cutting and drilling, do not forget to dull the sharp edges.

We cut, we mark, we drill. I marked rounded edges without fuss - applying a suitable coin. We grind the edges on the grinder, dull the sharp edges. Magic file, in a vise.

Earring. 8 pcs. Material - a strip of 20x5 mm.

Screw clamp, back stop.

Cut to desired length threaded studs, welded on one of the ends along a long “connecting” nut.

Sketch of the screw clamp, where: 1.2 - extension nut M12; 3 - body (pipe 40x25 mm); 4 - threaded stud M12.

In the absence of access to welding work, a screwed nut can be drilled and a transverse toggle lever with stops can be threaded into it, in the manner of a vise gate. The rest is obvious.

Auxiliary devices for gluing wood products

The use of wood glue is mandatory for most joints used during manufacture. various products from wood. The connection should dry under force, and it is possible to create and adjust the amount of force using special devices. Clamps and clamps are the most common, they can be purchased ready-made or made independently. The second option, in our deep conviction, is preferable. Why? Firstly, a thing that we received “almost for free” is always much nicer for us than something bought in a store for relatively big money. Secondly, during production, you can take into account your own needs to the maximum extent, it is very difficult to find the desired option in the store.

How to make wooden clamps

Clamps are very often used during the manufacture of individual small parts furniture. The advantages include ease of use and manufacture, reliability of fixation and small size. The disadvantages include the inability to work with parts that have large linear dimensions. This is especially true for clamps. industrial production, large clamps are very difficult to find, they are only available in large specialized stores. And there are such stores in big cities, while many craftsmen do not have the opportunity to often travel to the city in search of the right tools and accessories.

The way out is to make a clamp yourself, especially since this is not so difficult. For the manufacture you will need several bars or slats of wood hard rock and minimum set carpentry tools.

The thickness of the bar is within 30 mm, the thickness of the rails is within 10 mm. Cut out from a bar front stop clamps in the form of a hammer, a clamping element and a device for fastening a screw handle. Make a ruler from a thin rail, firmly connect the front stop to the ruler in a tenon / groove, be sure to use wood glue. The other two parts should have holes in which the ruler will easily move. As a clamping device, you can use any metal bolt of a suitable diameter with a coarse thread. The larger the thread and the longer the thread section in the screw stop, the greater the force that can be generated during clamping of the parts.

There is a huge amount various kinds clamps, we settled on the most simple and very reliable. It is necessary to make other special clamps only for those specialists who are engaged in the production a large number identical products. Then you need to have special clamps for clamping corner connections on the "mustache" and ordinary ones, for clamping very small elements of wooden structures, etc. For most craftsmen, it is enough to have simple clamps, with their help you can make most carpentry joints.

How to make wyms

Vyma - a device in which glued joints can be made over large areas. They are used in the manufacture of windows and doors, furniture boards and other products with large overall dimensions. Industrial clamps are quite practical, but they are not always available and for the price these devices can turn off some consumers. We will tell you how to make a wyma from metal and wood.

Simple metal wedge

You will need a corner with dimensions of at least 50 × 50 mm, a few bolts and threaded stops. A frame is made from the corner, drill holes on it symmetrically at regular intervals, stops will be fixed in these holes to regulate the length of the parts to be glued. The picture shows how to weld metal screw clamps. We used standard ones, but you can use large bolts with permanently welded nuts. To increase the stability of the rails, you need to weld the footboards, make them from scraps of a corner. The principle of operation is very simple - after installing the part to be glued, use a wrench to tighten the bolts. Don't forget to put between wooden product and metal stops gaskets.

The advantage of such a clamp is that you can clamp different sizes wooden structures. The disadvantage is the uneven clamping along the length. You need to make several pieces or use very strong and rigid gaskets in the form of metal channels or I-beams.

wooden wyma

Even more simple design, it can be made in just a few hours from lumber waste. Production material - wooden bars 50×80 mm, the length depends on the expected length of the elements to be glued. Choose the number of bars taking into account the width of the products, the distance between the bars should not be more than 20 centimeters. The figure shows the manufacturing scheme, we will only describe some of the features of using a home-made wooden rim.

There are two options for clamping the product: metal screws or wooden wedges. In order to use the first option, you need to find or separately purchase metal screws, but we do not advise you to bother. The clamp is perfectly performed with wooden wedges. To do this, you need to pre-prepare them, do not make the angle of the wedge very large during manufacture - it will be difficult to hammer it in and the risk of spontaneous loss of clamps will increase.

Insert the part into the fixture, using slats or boards of various widths, first reduce the gap between the part and the top lath of the clamp. Drive wedges into the small gap between them. If you wish, you can slightly improve the device we offer. To do this, in vertical racks at regular intervals, drill through holes, they will make it possible to automatically adjust the gap between the workpiece and the upper horizontal bar, the wedges will be easier to pick up, the fixation will be more stable. Another, easiest, clamping method is to use rubber bands and wrap them around the parts with tension.

5 000 rub