With the help of a knife, we cook food, cut food and perform other household chores. Therefore, it is very important that the blade of the knife always remains sharp. Theoretically, there is nothing complicated in sharpening knives, but in practice it turns out that not everyone can sharpen a blade well. To have an idea of how to sharpen knives and how to do it correctly, we advise you to read our article.
Before you start sharpening a knife, you need to find out what material it is made of. There are several types of knives:
- Carbon steel knives are the most affordable, made from an alloy of iron and carbon, easy to sharpen and stay sharp for a long time. Among the shortcomings, it can be noted - oxidation of the knife blade from interaction with food or an acidic environment, because of this, rust and stains appear on the knife, and the products acquire a metallic taste. Over time, after the formation of plaque on the blade, oxidation stops.
- Low carbon stainless steel knives are made from an alloy of iron, chromium, carbon and in some cases nickel or molybdenum. Stainless steel knives are inferior in hardness to carbon steel, so they dull quickly and require regular sharpening. The advantages include - resistance to corrosion.
- High carbon stainless steel knives are a higher class of knives, with a higher carbon content and additions of cobalt or vanadium. Due to a higher quality alloy, this type of knife does not require frequent sharpening and is not subject to corrosion.
- Damascus steel knives are mainly made as edged weapons, but there are also kitchen options. The Damascus steel knife is a multi-layer blade made of different high quality alloys. The disadvantages include the high cost of knives.
- Ceramic knives have gained popularity because of their sharpness and ability not to dull for a long time. But in addition to the advantages, ceramic knives have a significant disadvantage, which is their fragility when falling from a height and poor fracture resistance.
Sharpening tools
Touchstone (whetstone)
Whetstones are available with a different number of abrasive grains per square millimeter. Therefore, for rough sharpening and finishing grinding, it is necessary to use bars with a minimum and maximum abrasive content. In foreign-made whetstones, information about the number of abrasive grains is on their marking. Grinding bars of domestic production have to be chosen "by eye" or ask the seller which whetstone to use for primary and which for finishing sharpening.
Mechanical sharpener
Mechanical sharpeners are mainly used for sharpening kitchen knives. The sharpening process, although it happens quickly, but the quality leaves much to be desired. For this reason, for hunting and sporting knives, it is recommended to use other sharpening methods.
electric sharpener
Modern models of electric sharpeners allow you to achieve high quality sharpening, due to the built-in function, automatic detection of the angle of the blade. The electric sharpener is perfect for both domestic use and for sharpening knives in catering establishments. The range of electric sharpeners is presented in a wide range, so the price may be different, but if you want your knives to always remain sharp, then buy more "advanced" and expensive models.
Musat
Musat - designed to maintain the sharpness of the edge of the knife. In shape, musat resembles a round file with a handle. Musats are included in knife sets, and many owners often confuse them with a tool for full-fledged sharpening of the blade. Keep in mind that with the help of musat you will be able to maintain the sharpness of a sharpened knife, but if the knife is completely dull, it will not work to sharpen it with musat.
Sharpener "Lansky"
This sharpener is used for sharpening small and medium-sized knives. The design of the sharpener allows you to sharpen the blade at your chosen angle. Sharpener "Lansky" consists of a rod with a removable whetstone and two corners connected to each other. The corners simultaneously serve as a vise for the knife and a scale for selecting the sharpening angle. The sharpener also comes with ANSI marked whetstones in various grit sizes.
Sharpening and grinding machines
Sharpening machines are mainly used in production, for high-precision sharpening of blades of rotating shafts. In addition to high-precision machines, there are electrically driven abrasive wheels and rotating grinding discs. Sharpening knives on such machines should only be done by an experienced craftsman, because due to the speed of rotation of the circle or disk and the high heating temperature, with any unsuccessful movement, the knife blade will become unusable.
Self-sharpening blades
Sharpening a knife with a whetstone
The sharpening of the blade, made by a whetstone, is considered the highest quality, of course, provided that it was produced by an experienced craftsman. To sharpen a knife on a whetstone, do the following:
- Place a whetstone with a low content of abrasive grains on a fixed surface. If the bar is small, it can be clamped in a vise.
- Holding the knife at an angle of 20-25 degrees with respect to the surface of the bar, start moving the knife along the whetstone with the cutting edge forward.
- Move the blade along the bar in such a way that during the movement it touches the surface of the whetstone, along its entire length.
- Try to keep the same blade angle while moving.
- After 2-3 strokes, turn the knife over and repeat the sharpening process on the other side of the blade.
- Thus, alternating sides, sharpen the knife until an edge (burr) appears along the edge of the blade.
- Change the rough sharpening stone for a grinding stone.
- Sand the knife blade until the edge is gone.
- Test the sharpness of a knife by cutting through a hemp rope that has been folded several times, or try cutting through a piece of paper.
How to sharpen a knife with a whetstone, see also the video:
Sharpening a hunting knife on a Lansky sharpener
Hunting knives are made of hard steel, so their initial sharpening requires whetstones with a low content of abrasive grains.
- Clamp the knife in the vise of the sharpener.
- Install a whetstone with a low content of abrasive grains on the shaft.
- Select the angle of the bar (for hunting knives it is usually between 20 and 30 degrees).
- Insert the rod into the desired hole.
- Lubricate the whetstone with the special oil included in the sharpener set.
- Start moving the bar along the blade of the knife, from the base to the tip.
- Turn the sharpener over and repeat the process on the other side of the knife.
- After the edge is formed, change the stone and do the final sanding.
- Since hunting knives are mainly made with a double-edged blade, after completing sharpening on one side, change the position of the knife in the vise and start the sharpening process on the other side.
- When finished sharpening, polish the knife blade with felt.
How to sharpen knives in a Lansky sharpener, see the video:
Sharpening scissors
Sharpening scissors must be done on a special grinding machine. Sharpening blades with the help of improvised (sandpaper, the edge of a glass, etc.) can temporarily improve the sharpness of scissors, but not for long. If you do not have the opportunity to sharpen scissors from a professional, then you can try to sharpen yourself on an abrasive stone. When sharpening, you need to follow a few simple rules:
- The sharpening stone should be fine-grained.
- The blade is sharpened over the entire surface of the edge at the same time.
- The angle of the blade must match the factory edge.
- The movement of the blade over the stone must be done from the screw to the tip.
- You need to sharpen scissors in disassembled form.
When sharpening scissors, do not rush, patience in this matter will be your ally.
How to quickly sharpen scissors, you can also see in the video:
Sharpening plane and chisel blades
Sharpening the blade of a planer and a chisel practically does not differ from each other. Therefore, the sharpening process described below applies to both tools:
- Set the chisel on the whetstone at an angle of 30-40 degrees.
- Holding the chisel with your hand, use the fingers of your free hand to press the bevel against the whetstone.
- Start running the chisel over the grindstone until a burr forms on the smooth side of the chisel.
- Change the touchstone to a fine-grained one and make the final grinding of the chisel.
- Check the sharpness of the chisel blade by removing chips from the corner of the bar.
In addition to manual sharpening, the chisel can be sharpened on a machine with a rotating abrasive disc:
- Turn on the machine and let the disc reach full speed.
- Holding the chisel with both hands, lean its bevel against the grinding wheel.
- Be sure to observe the angle of the chisel, otherwise you will ruin the blade of the tool.
- Do not press the chisel with too much force and do not hold it too long on the disk, this will lead to overheating of the metal and destruction of the blade.
- While sharpening, wet the blade with water.
- The final grinding of the chisel blade is best done by hand, using a fine-grained bar or sandpaper.
Do not forget that when sharpening products on the machine, a lot of sparks and small particles are formed that can get into your eyes, so be sure to work with safety glasses. And in order not to injure your hands on a spinning disk, wear gloves.
You can also learn how to sharpen tools from the video:
Tips for quickly sharpening the blade with improvised means
Stone
To quickly sharpen a knife on a hike or on a picnic, you can use an ordinary cobblestone. Use any stone lying on the ground instead of a whetstone and run the blade of a knife along its surface. You will not achieve razor sharpness, but you will return the knife to working condition.
Second knife
It is quite possible to sharpen two knives at once, without sharpening stones and accessories. To do this, you need to take a knife in both hands and start sharpening the blade of one knife on the blade of another. After 5-10 minutes of this work, the knives will become sharper than before.
glass items
The blade of a knife can be sharpened slightly on the rough edge of glass or ceramic objects. For example, about the bottom of a glass or the edge of a tile. The main thing is that the surface is rough.
Leather belt
A leather belt is more suitable for finishing and razor sharpening a knife blade than for rough sharpening. But if there is nothing at hand except for the belt, then you can try to sharpen the knife on it. To do this, you need to give the belt a stretch and start to drive along it with a blade, you may not achieve strong sharpness, but you will polish the knife to a shine. 
By learning how to sharpen knives and tools yourself, you will acquire a skill that will be useful to you throughout your life!
Blunt knives on the farm can not only cause a bad mood for the hostess, but also cause accidents. Hardware stores have a range of tools designed for sharpening knives, but not all of them suit customers. Alternatively, you can make a knife sharpening machine yourself; the drawings for its manufacture are not difficult for a person who knows how to craft.
Types of stones for processing blades
Before you start making a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the information about its components. Grinding stones, or they can also be called - abrasive stones are one of the decisive factors in achieving an excellent result, but the skill of the master plays an equally important role.
Types of grindstones
So to get the perfect sharpening, you have to practice a lot.
There are the following types of stones suitable for sharpening cutting surfaces:
- Tools that require water to work. The advantage of this type of whetstone is material savings - the surface of the tool is less subject to wear.
- Oil stones are similar in structure to water stones, but have an oily surface.
- Natural stones are made from natural materials. Before making a tool, such a stone undergoes industrial processing.
- Artificial stones - artificial materials are used in their manufacture. It is believed that a tool made from non-natural components is inferior in quality to natural materials, but at the same time they are quite cheap.
If desired, you can make a homemade abrasive bar. To do this, you need to take a flat 5 mm thick plexiglass of a rectangular shape and stick sandpaper on it using double-sided tape. This is the easiest way to make a knife sharpener, it is convenient because when the sandpaper is worn out, it is easy to replace it.
Why is the sharpening angle so important?
The angle between the edges of the blade is called the sharpening angle. Precise observance of the given angle is the main requirement when processing the cutting surface with an abrasive tool, and it is its value that affects the sharpness of the blade.
With a simple marker, you can control the turning angle, just paint over the area to be sharpened with it. Even ink wear indicates a good blade finish.
Prerequisites for a grinder
In order to make knives for your own hands, you need to carefully plan the stages of work and draw up drawings. If the master has experience, then he can develop them on his own or use ready-made drawings that are offered in special literature.
For a perfect cutting surface, the machine must meet the following requirements:
- reliable and at the same time not too rigid fixation of the knife in a vice;
- observance of the angle value, during the sharpening process, the angle must be constant;
- the design of the machine should provide for the possibility of changing the angle of sharpening.
You can read below how to make your own devices for straightening blades, which are in no way inferior to purchased mechanisms.
DIY knife sharpener
The most affordable sharpener option
We make the fastest version of the device. To do this, you need to prepare 2 pairs of wooden corners, an abrasive block and a protractor to correctly determine the sharpening angle. The dimensions of the bars should be the same. Wooden corners are fastened together with adjustable screws, and a sharpening bar is securely fixed between them at the required angle.
Despite the ease of manufacture, such machines have a number of disadvantages, these include:
- the processing angle has to be maintained manually - which is not very convenient during a long processing process;
- the need for rigid fixation of the device on the working surface for its stability;
- when sharpening, you need to constantly control the tension of the screeds so that the bar does not change its position.
But it should be noted that such simple homemade products are quite suitable for processing home kitchen knives and do not require large financial investments in manufacturing.
Manual grinder with adjustable bar
This machine is a more complex design, but it is much more convenient to use. The basis for its creation was a model of a machine called the Lansky sharpener.
Sharpener Lansky
The advantage of such models is the reliable fixation of the knife blade.
The device is a support table on which the knife is fixed. At the opposite end of the table, a screw post with a bar is vertically fixed. A guide rod is inserted into this bar, on which an abrasive bar is mounted. By moving the bar along the screw rod, you can change the value of the angle of metal processing.
The advantages of machines with a similar design include:
- high processing accuracy;
- the possibility of replacing the bar with sandpaper glued to plexiglass;
- The wide support base allows you to fix the machine with the help of any table.
When operating the machine, the difficulty lies only in the long adjustment of the position of the whetstone. If you plan to process different types of blades, you will have to reconfigure the device each time.
Possibility to adjust the position of the knife
An alternative to a machine with a movable grindstone is a device where it is possible to adjust the position of the knife relative to the bar. Basically, its design is similar to the adjustable bar machine, a little easier to manufacture.
On the plane of the base, a movable block is mounted for fastening the rod with a bar. Clamps are also installed on it, one adjustable, the second persistent. With the help of an adjustable clamp, the angle of sharpening can be adjusted.
The only drawback of this model is the appearance of bar wear in one specific place. This disadvantage can be eliminated by installing a long pin for adjusting the edge relative to the surface to be treated.
Each of the above options has its own advantages and disadvantages. When making your choice in favor of a particular model, it is necessary to focus on the level of skills and the magnitude of the needs for operating the machine.
Video: Making a knife sharpening machine
materials
1. Plywood or plastic plate 10mm thick.
2. Screws, wing screws, washers and rod (0.5 m) with M6 or M8 thread.
3. Magnets from a used computer hard drive
4. Bearing from an old coffee grinder.
5. Emery (abrasive skins) sheets and bars of different grain sizes: 120, 320, 600, 1500.
Manufacturing
1. The fixed part of the machine is made of plywood (plastic). Strips with a length of 30 cm and 5 cm and a width of (10 ... 12) cm are fastened with the letter G from below with an aluminum corner. In the upper part we install 1 or 2 magnets (we fill them with epoxy). We drill a hole in the lower opposite part and install a threaded rod (height 12 ... 15 cm) with a bearing vertically.
On the surface (to stop the sharpened knife) we install a prepared aluminum (or stainless steel) plate with a slot in the middle (up to 2 mm thick.) With a wing clamp.
2. Movable part two options:
Option A. For sharpening with bars.
Option B. For sharpening with abrasive skins.
The aluminum profile has 4 sides with a width of 25 mm.
A strip of abrasive skin of different grain sizes is glued on each side: 120, 320, 600, 1500. For the sticker, I use stationery glue stick. After the used strip of the skin is easily removed with a knife and a new strip is glued on.
Sharpening process
1. Install the knife to be sharpened as in the photo.
The knife is clearly fixed due to the magnet and there is no need to fix it mechanically.
With the help of a movable stop, we set the knife up to the required position and fix the stop with a wing screw.
We put the moving part of the machine on the knife.
Now we set the sharpening angle by lowering down or raising the bearing with the screws.
For the first sharpening, turn the side with the minimum grit number 120 (the coarsest) to the knife blade.
sharpen until a continuous strip is obtained on the edge of the blade (width 0.5 ... 1 mm.)
Flip the knife over and repeat.
We continue the process with sandpaper 320, 600, 1500.
Now you can shave with a knife.
The same order of sharpening with sharpening bars. But in this case, there are several disadvantages:
1. The middle part of the bar develops over time, then the sharpening angle "floats", which is not the case in the first version.
2. Bars with different granularity must be changed, and in the first variant, to change the granularity, it is only necessary to rotate the edge. The bar is removed by pressing the spring with two fingers.
Now all knives are sharpened by a full cycle. If some of the knives become dull during use. I only dress these knives with 600 or 1500 grit, two to three strokes on each side of the knife.
Thank you for your attention!
"Useful homemade products" from Gamir Khamitov.
The advent of the Edge Pro sharpeners literally revolutionized. The prices are really high, but no one bothers to copy the principle and create such a device yourself. We offer the design of a simple machine for sharpening knives, chisels and any other blades that you can make yourself.
Machine base
Most parts for a grinding machine can be made from literally anything, following the general principle of the device. As an example, let's take laminated or polished box plywood 8-12 mm thick, which was widely used in the manufacture of Soviet radio engineering cases.
The base must be heavy - about 3.5-5 kg - otherwise the machine will be unstable and unsuitable for sharpening heavy cutting tools. Therefore, the inclusion of steel elements in the design is welcome, for example, the base of the case can be “forged” with a corner of 20x20 mm.
From plywood, you need to cut out two parts with a jigsaw in the form of a rectangular trapezoid with bases of 170 and 60 mm and a height of 230 mm. When cutting, leave an allowance of 0.5-0.7 mm for the processing of the ends: they must be straight and exactly match the markup.
The third part is an inclined plane made of plywood planks measuring 230x150 mm. It is installed between the inclined sides of the side walls, while the trapezoids of the side walls rest on the rectangular side.
In other words, the base of the machine is a kind of wedge, but the inclined plane should protrude 40 mm at the front. On the ends of the side walls, set aside two lines with a thickness gauge, indented by half the thickness of the plywood. Drill three holes in each plank for fastening the parts with screws. Transfer the drilling to the ends of the inclined part, temporarily connect the base parts.
In the rear part, the side walls are connected with a bar 60x60 mm, which is attached to the end with two screws on each side. In the bar, you need to make a 10 mm vertical hole indented 50 mm from the center, that is, 25 mm from the edge. To be sure of verticality, it is better to first drill with a thin drill on both sides, and then expand. From above and below, screw two fittings with M10 internal thread into the hole, and in them - a 10 mm stud 250 mm long. Here it may be necessary to readjust the lower bushing slightly if its threads do not match the stud.
Handpiece device
Remove the flat inclined part from the base - it needs to be finalized by providing a device for fixing and pressing the tool being processed.
First set aside 40 mm from the front edge and along this line with a hacksaw cut a groove about 2 mm deep. With a sectional or shoe knife, chip off the top two layers of veneer from the end of the plank to form a sample into which you can put a 2 mm steel plate flush with the common plane.
The arm rest consists of two steel strips 170x60 mm and 150x40 mm. They need to be folded together along the long end with uniform indents along the edges and three through holes of 6 mm should be made. The strips along these holes must be bolted together, placing the caps on the side of the upper, larger plate. Arc-weld each hat, welding it to the plate, then remove the metal deposits and grind the plate until a perfectly flat plane is obtained.
Attach the narrower striker to the notch at the edge and transfer the holes with a drill, then secure the tool rest with bolts. Before installation, it can also be magnetized with direct current, this will help in sharpening small blades.
Locking mechanism
The second part of the handbrake is the clamping bar. It is also made of two parts:
- Upper L-shaped bar 150x180 mm with a shelf width of about 45-50 mm.
- The lower strike plate is rectangular in shape 50x100 mm.
The parts need to be folded in the same way as the parts of the armrest were folded, placing the reciprocal bar at the far edge of the upper clamp. In the center we make two holes with an indent of 25 mm from the edges of a small part, through them we tighten the parts with two 8 mm bolts. You need to start them in opposite directions, while the head of the upper (near) bolt is located on the side of the clamping bar. The bolt heads are also welded to the plates and pre-sanded to obtain neat fillets.
On an inclined board with an indent of 40 mm from the edge, draw a line with a thickness gauge, and make one 8 mm hole 25 mm from the top and bottom edges. Connect the edges of the holes with a marking and make a cut with an allowance with a jigsaw. Bring the resulting groove with a file to a width of 8.2-8.5 mm.
Fasten the clamping and reciprocal bar through the groove in the plank. Tighten the bolt protruding from above with a nut so that the bar retains minimal mobility, then lock the connection with a second nut. To press or release the bar from below (in the niche of the base), screw the wing nut onto the second bolt.
Sharpening angle adjustment
On the stud screwed into the base bar, throw a wide washer and tighten the nut so that the rod does not turn in the futors.
The adjusting block must be made from a small bar of hard material with dimensions of approximately 20x40x80 mm. Take carbolite, textolite or hardwood.
At 15 mm from the edge, the block is drilled into a 20 mm end on both sides, the hole expands to 9 mm, then we cut the thread inside. With an indent of 50 mm from the axis of the hole made, the second one is drilled, but in the flat part of the part, that is, perpendicular to the previous one. This hole should have a diameter of about 14 mm, and it should also be heavily flared with a round rasp.
The block is screwed onto the stud, so it is possible to relatively accurately adjust the height of the lug without a complex system of screw clamps, as in the original machine, which is a little more difficult to implement in practice. In order for the block to be motionless during operation, it must be locked on both sides with M10 wing nuts.
Carriage and change bars
For a grinding carriage, you will need to coaxially weld 30 cm pieces of an M10 stud and a smooth, even bar 10 mm thick. You also need two solid blocks measuring approximately 50x80 mm with a thickness of up to 20 mm. A 10 mm hole should be made in each bar in the center and with an indent of 20 mm from the top edge.
First, a wing nut is screwed onto the bar, then a wide washer and two bars, again a washer and a nut. Rectangular whetstones can be clamped between the whetstones, but it is better to make several replaceable whetstones.
As a basis for them, take a lightweight aluminum profile with a flat part 40-50 mm wide. It can be a profile rectangular pipe or pieces of an old cornice profile.
We skin and degrease the flat part, “Moment” glue on it strips of sandpaper of different grain sizes from 400 to 1200 grit. Choose a cloth-based sandpaper, and glue a strip of suede leather on one of the bars to dress the blades with abrasive paste.
How to sharpen
For proper sharpening, make several templates from plywood with angles of 14-20º for cutting and 30-37º for cutting edges, the exact angle depends on the steel grade. Fix the blade parallel to the edge of the handle and press it with a bar. According to the template, adjust the angle between the planes of the grinding block and the inclined board of the table.
Start sharpening with a large (P400) stone if the edge does not have the correct angle. Achieve the downhill strip to take the form of a straight strip without meanders and waves. Reduce the grit and pass on both sides of the blade first with a P800 block, and then with a P1000 or P1200 block. When sharpening the blade, pass the stone with a little effort in both directions.
After sharpening, the blade must be corrected with a “leather” bar, on which a small amount of GOI paste is applied. When straightening the blades, the working movement is directed only towards the edge (toward itself), but not against it. And, finally, a little advice: if you sharpen knives with polished blades and engraving, paste them with masking tape so that the crumbling abrasive does not leave scratches. It also does not hurt to paste over the surface of the handpiece with self-adhesive vinyl.
Any knife, even the best, requires careful care. If you neglect this, then over time it may stop cutting. Therefore, it is important to choose the right tool for sharpening knives. Currently, in stores you can find a huge number of stones and sharpeners.
Types of stones for sharpening
Basically, there are three types of stones for sharpening:
Features of sharpening various knives
To sharpen Japanese knives yourself, you must have sufficient skills in this area. After all, Japanese steel is very fragile, so it requires special care. Manufacturers recommend sharpening such knives on Japanese water stones. It is advisable to use several stones with different degrees of graininess at the same time, which will maintain the sharpness of the knives for a long time. Of course, this process is not easy and requires patience.
But to sharpen a kitchen knife, everyone is used to using a special sharpener. With its help, you can quickly and conveniently sharpen any knife. Of course, no housewife wants to use several stones for sharpening. However, thanks to their use, the knife will cut much better.
Conditions for sharpening
Choosing and purchasing a tool for sharpening knives is only half the trouble. It is necessary to make sure that the knife remains sharp for several months. To do this, choose a favorable angle for sharpening. Some believe that the smaller the angle between the edges of the blade, the sharper the tool will be. But this is not entirely true, since such an action can lead to the fact that the knife will soon lose its cutting qualities again. That is, the sharper it is after sharpening, the faster it becomes dull. In this case, a pattern can be identified: the smaller the angle at which the knife was sharpened, the less strength the cutting edge of the blade will have.
Sharpening task
The main task of this operation is to restore the sharpness of the blade. At the same time, the correct sharpening angle must be maintained. Therefore, we can say that in its process, the angle that was set earlier is restored. This angle must fully comply with all technological standards. The task is considered completed if the knife can be used to cut the material for which it is intended.
What problems can arise in the course of work?
Of course, choosing the right angle for sharpening is difficult. Moreover, such a process is difficult if there is no special tool for sharpening knives. After all, if you hold the blade with your hands, it will be very difficult to achieve uniform sharpening with the right angles. To fix this problem, you can use a homemade knife sharpener. Moreover, making it at home is not difficult. And although there are currently a huge number of different sharpenings, their design is not characterized by increased complexity, so it will take little time to manufacture such a device.
How can you sharpen a knife at home?
One of the main tasks of every man around the house is sharpening knives. Do-it-yourself adaptation is not only convenient, but also effective. In this case, you can independently make a device that will resemble the factory one. And you can use some improvised means:
- Hacksaw.
- Wooden block.
- Chisel.
- Sandpaper.
- Plane.
- File and the like.
In some villages, sharpening knives on the foundation is also practiced. It is made of cement-sand mortar and has a granular surface. Of course, this method cannot be called an example to follow. But if you urgently need to sharpen the blade, and there is no tool for sharpening knives, then this is a relatively good option.
Why are drawings needed?
Knife sharpeners are inexpensive. Nevertheless, many owners want to make a device for sharpening knives with their own hands. Such a device will be better than a store-bought one, since only natural materials are used in the process of its creation. In order for the manufacture of the sharpener to be completed successfully, it is necessary to carry out the process according to the proposed plan:
- Purchase or make your own drawings for clamping jaws. It is very important to draw in detail the future design. In particular, attention should be paid to small details.
- Draw a drawing of the left and right stops, which is necessary so that the assembled structure does not fall apart.
- Prepare a drawing of the guide. There are several nuances here.
Guide drawing: features
To get the guide to the right size, you should:
As you know, there are two main types of knife sharpening: one-sided and two-sided. Naturally, the methods of work in both cases differ from each other. When working with knives, the following factors should be considered:
Sharpening planer knives
Sharpening planer knives is a rather complicated process. For its implementation it is necessary to master some knowledge and skills. It is difficult to find a device for sharpening planer knives on sale. Therefore, many improve their cutting qualities on conventional sharpeners. But for this it is necessary to acquire a modern low-speed grinder with water cooling. In order to sharpen a planer knife with ease, you should find a flat and ungreased stone used in this area. It is better to use a water stone. You can find a sharpener in car workshops, where any blade will be sharpened for an additional fee.
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