Sanding a wooden frame. Sanding a wooden house. Understanding this will definitely lead you to our company.

The process of polishing a log house is quite laborious, but it is quite feasible at home. In order to perform high-quality grinding, it is necessary to have special equipment, as well as initial skills in working with it. Self-polishing a log house will help save material resources, while obtaining a high-quality result. We will learn more about how to properly sand a log house from a rounded log.

Sanding logs is not at all a mandatory process. However, after its implementation, the wooden surface becomes more attractive. appearance, it becomes resistant to external stimuli.

Most often, polishing the bath is necessary to get rid of the upper, dark layer of wood. In addition, with the help of grinding, it is possible to partially or completely remove the fungus. Further, covering the wood with a special protective agent, it is possible to extend its service life by several more years.

In order for the grinding process to go quickly and efficiently, it is necessary to choose the right equipment. Most often, for these purposes, a grinder is used, on which a special nozzle is installed or grinding machine.

When choosing a grinder, pay attention to compact, small and lightweight models with minimum set functions. Also, the device should be distinguished by the presence of a function of smooth switching of operating modes. It is more convenient to perform grinding using two grinders, one of which has a fine and the second coarse abrasive. However, it is quite realistic to do the job with one device.

Choose plastic nozzles for abrasive elements, since rubber ones leave dark spots on a wooden surface. Please note that prolonged use of the tool and the constant replacement of nozzles leads to its excessive heating. Therefore, if you work with only one grinder, then pause in its work. The initial sanding of the bath is done using a 40-60 grit abrasive. With the help of this abrasive it is possible to process about five meters of a log.

Please note that for polishing the log cabin of their coniferous trees, you will need to purchase more abrasive. Since these types of wood are characterized by a high resin content in their composition, this leads to premature deterioration of abrasive nozzles.

Secondary processing of bath logs is carried out using abrasives with a grain size of 110 units.

Please note that round logs are sanded exclusively with an eccentric sander. And with the help of a grinder, it is possible to grind the timber. However, please note that the power of the grinder is quite high, and pressing too hard will damage the wooden surface.

Before sanding the log house, it is necessary to carry out a series of preparatory work. The work is done before the installation of windows, as this species work is characterized by the release of a large amount of dust and dirt. If the wood has a high moisture content, then it is necessary to wait for it to dry. Since sanding wet wood will be of poor quality. It is preferable to carry out the work after the roof has been installed.

Before starting work, inspect the surface of the log house for defects. If there are places where the surface of the wood has peeled off, then it must be smeared with glue and wait for it to dry.

How to sand a log house: instructions

Start sanding the log house from the bottom of it, gradually moving towards the top. The grinding process involves the following actions:

1. Grinding with a grinder to a coarse-grained nozzle.

2. Processing grooves with a grinder, the size of the disk should be 1-2 cm larger than the size of the tool itself. If you choose a large nozzle, then the tool may jam and cause injury.

3. The corner sections of the log house are processed with a chisel. This process is carried out either at the beginning of work or after the completion of the first grinding.

4. For grinding the ends, use only a coarse abrasive. To reduce the pile on the ends, use a soldering iron or a hammer.

5. Before further finishing, inspect the wood for gray spots. If they are present on the surface, apply bleach to them. Remember to remove dust with a vacuum cleaner and a damp cloth.

6. In order not to leave deep marks on the surface of the wood, do not use the grinder or grinder at too high a speed.

• apply a layer of primer, use a brush or spray gun;
• in order to emphasize the structure of the tree, bleach and paint the surface;
• apply a layer of protective impregnation.

How to sand a log house with your own hands: internal grinding

While doing internal grinding log house, there are several options for performing this process. If earlier the bath was amenable to grinding, then to update its upper layer, it is enough to use a coarse abrasive.

If no further wall cladding is planned, then the process of grinding them should be of high quality and lengthy. It is preferable to perform primary grinding before installing the finishing floors and ceiling ceiling. The work process is as follows:

• removal of a rough layer of wood bark, for this a grinder or grinder is used;
• using a grinder, process the groove and corner areas;
• sand the wood with fine abrasive materials;
• for grinding the joints of logs and the most inaccessible places, use hand tool This process is labor intensive and requires high labor costs.

After sanding one wall, remove dust from its surface and apply protective compound antiseptic action. This process is repeated each time after grinding is performed.

When applying an antiseptic to the wall, make sure that there are no caulks on it. Use sealant to remove them. For execution finishing, do the following:

1. Apply protective layer antiseptic. With it, it will be possible to prevent the development of mold and fungus on the walls.

2. After the antiseptic dries, treat the walls with a glazing solution. Thus, it will be possible to improve the aesthetic appeal of the room.

3. Finish the end sections with acrylic composition with moisture resistant properties. After it is completely dry, apply another layer of the solution.

4. To improve the fire resistance of wood, apply a flame retardant to it.

How to quickly sand a log house: abrasive blasting

Another fairly simple option for grinding is the use of abrasive blasting technology. To perform grinding, you will need a special apparatus that ejects sand under pressure. He, in turn, cleans the wood from dirt and mold. This method wood processing is non-contact. However, wood, after processing, is particularly smooth and has an excellent texture.

The process of performing such grinding is easy and efficient, and the quality is impeccable. With the help of sandblasting, it is possible to create a certain natural texture on the tree. The appearance of the tree, after processing, is distinguished by exclusivity and high cost.

Benefits of using the sandblasting method:

• grinding wood of different structure and type;
• sanding wood with any contamination;
• the ability to highlight the fabulous texture of the tree;
• high speed of work;
• grinding in the most hard-to-reach places;
• the duration of the operation of the tree increases due to the fact that its upper layer is compacted;
• ease of doing the job.

This grinding method is characterized by a high speed of execution. There are no scratches or chips on the surface of the wood, and there is an excellent wood texture. In addition, it is possible to get rid of pile and additional elements that degrade the quality of wood. There is no need to grind the surface after sandblasting. This process is quite easy to perform even for a beginner. The only thing that is required is the availability of special equipment and sand for work.

Therefore, when answering the question of how to polish the logs of a log house, first of all, pay attention to this processing method.

If you do not have the time and energy to perform grinding, then we recommend entrusting this process to professionals. When answering the question of how much it costs to polish a log house, it is necessary to take into account many factors, such as the quality of the wood, the size of the log house, the complexity of the work, etc.

The average cost of polishing one square meter of a log house is about 450 rubles. This process is quite expensive, however, in this way, you will save time and get a quality result from professionals.

When choosing a tool for self-processing wood, pay attention to grinders that have a dust bag. Thus, the work will be easier, and after its completion there will be no need for cleaning.

To process semicircular logs, belt grinders will not be able to; for these purposes, special equipment will be required. It is possible to use a grinder, but it must be equipped with a nozzle with special petals that will help grind hard-to-reach places. Optimal value grinder power is up to 1 kW. The use of more powerful equipment is fraught with the fact that on the second day your hands will be very sore, due to the severity of the instrument.

If you want to get a perfectly smooth surface, then sand the log house only after it has completely dried. Otherwise, worn fragments will be present on the wood.

There are four main ways to process wood with a grinder and abrasive materials:

• draft method - involves peeling the bark;
• medium processing option - at this stage, small irregularities are removed from the tree;
• thin processing option involves final grinding;
• sanding wood before painting.

Please note that the abrasive wears out very quickly, and when doing the work yourself, you will have to change nozzles very often. To clean the nozzle from resin and dust, use a brush and thinner in the form of white spirit. However, in this case, it is more difficult to achieve high performance.

The speed of the work is determined by such factors as previous grinding experience, equipment power, quality of nozzles, the amount of resin in the composition of the tree. The average grinding time for one linear meter is about two minutes, with a log height of 300 mm.

Before grinding, put on a respirator, protective glasses and gloves. Since in the process of work dust is released, which should not get into the eyes or respiratory tract.

Immediately after grinding the log house, it is covered with special compounds. If mold or fungus is present on the logs, then special bleaches are used to remove them. Next, you should protect the tree with the help of antiseptic glazing compounds.

To apply the composition, use a brush, and even better spray. Thus, it will be possible to evenly cover the surface. After applying paint or varnish to the surface of the wood, the pile begins to rise, to remove it, sand the surface again.

External polishing of the log house helps to restore the natural shade to the wood, which is lost under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. If you do not polish the log house before applying antiseptics to its surface, then you will not be able to achieve the optimal effectiveness of their impact.

Sanding the log house allows you to get rid of the top layer of mold and fungus, which appears from excessive moisture. In addition, with the help of grinding it is possible to remove all the bumps, dirt from the walls. At the same time, they acquire a pleasant color, excellent texture and a smooth surface. Sanding walls significantly increases the life of wood. In addition, with the help of grinding, it is possible to restore a tree that has previously lost its color.

Sand log house video:

Grinding the timber inside the house is a mandatory operation that is performed after construction and complete shrinkage wooden structure. The main purpose of this work is to level the surface, remove the darkened and blue-damaged areas of wood and prepare the internal walls of the house or bath for further painting or applying varnish. Grinding is required not only for newly built wooden houses, but also to old timber buildings. Sanding allows you to remove a layer old paint and update the color of the interior walls of the house. What tool is suitable for the job, and how to properly sand a log and log house from the inside - questions that will be discussed in detail in this article.

The question of the better to grind the timber inside the house is far from idle. From right choice devices for grinding largely depends on the speed and quality of work. Previously, grinding was carried out only manually using a chisel and sandpaper of different grain sizes. But grinding by hand is quite a long and tedious process.

Today, manual grinding is practiced only for processing hard-to-reach places in the corners of logs, and grinding of the entire area, as a rule, is carried out with different power tools.

1. The most common way to grind beams is with an angle grinder or a grinder with nozzles in the form of grinding wheels of different numbers. For initial processing and cleaning of the surface, nozzles with coarse abrasive No. 30-60 are used. Fine grinding of a wooden surface is carried out with an abrasive nozzle with a fine grain No. 80-120. An angle grinder is also suitable for processing the interior walls of a planed log house.
2. A belt sander does an excellent job of sanding a house made of profiled timber, which processes the surface with a rotating abrasive belt. The machine is well suited for removing old paintwork from large area. The functionality of the device to a large extent depends on the length of the working canvas. Processing a large area is best done with a machine designed for a tape length of 610 mm. Most models are equipped with a bag for collecting chips and sawdust, which allows dust-free grinding.
3. To grind the internal walls of a log house, you can use a vibration grinder with a rectangular sole. Machines of this type are of high quality grinding, so they are most often used for fine finishing and polishing wooden walls. Models with a triangular platform are suitable for processing hard-to-reach areas - corners and grooves of a log house.

During grinding, a a large number of dust. If wood processing is carried out with tools without a dust collector, then it is necessary to take care of the means of protecting the body and respiratory organs: a respirator, glasses, gloves.

wall sanding wooden house do-it-yourself can be done only after the beam dries. This rule is especially important when the house is built from planed or profiled timber. natural humidity. If you start grinding ahead of time, you will not be able to completely remove the pile. After treatment with antiseptics, it will rise again, and the process will have to be repeated.

Some home craftsmen, having read incorrect information on the Internet, try to do wood sanding with water. However, wet wood should not be sanded as it will scuff. After such grinding, it is unlikely that a beautiful and smooth surface will turn out.

Grinding is best to start from the upper floors of the house, so that a minimum of dust enters the finished premises. Work is not recommended to be performed immediately on the entire area. It is more convenient to grind in parts. The surface of the processed wall is divided into sections, which are polished alternately.

Before sanding wooden ceiling in order to clearly see all the surface irregularities, it is necessary to install the correct lighting. Light should fall from one side with a slight angle of inclination. Ceilings of a large area are faster and more convenient to process with a vibration grinder. For ceilings complex design It is better to use an eccentric sander.

When grinding with a grinder, wood fires often occur. Usually this happens if inexperienced craftsmen take up the work, who select the wrong disk rotation speed. As a result, the tool runs at high speeds, and when pressed hard, a spark is formed, which ultimately leads to the burning of wood.

To avoid igniting the timber during grinding, it is necessary to work at low speeds and do not press hard on the tool. Another reason for the ignition of wood is the untimely change of emery wheels. Worn and clogged bits can cause sparks. During operation, care must be taken to ensure that the cables are laid correctly, which, if twisted or broken, can also cause a fire.

Grinding the walls of the log house is carried out in stages and includes three types of processing: rough, fine and finishing.

1. At the first stage, a rough processing of the timber is performed, the task of which is to remove all significant irregularities from the surface and prepare it for finer grinding. For this work, the abrasive with the largest grain size is selected. During the initial treatment, the nozzles become clogged with dust very quickly and have to be changed frequently.
2. For basic grinding, sandpaper is used with fine fraction grains. After processing, a flat and smooth surface should be obtained, ready for subsequent painting.
3. Finishing grinding is not always performed, but in cases where it is required to bring the surface into perfect condition for the subsequent application of a transparent varnish coating. The walls are polished with the finest abrasive, which makes the surface as smooth as possible.

For grinding grooves, a grinder is used with a nozzle several sizes smaller than the diameter of the circle. Corners are processed manually with a chisel with a working part width of 20 mm.

After each stage of grinding, it is necessary to clean the surface of dust with a vacuum cleaner. After completion of all grinding work, the surface must be treated with antiseptics that protect the wood from rot and mold. This must be done no later than seven days after grinding.

Typical mistakes when grinding timber

Many home masters, performing grinding on their own, often make mistakes, among which the most common are:

1. Grinding wet timber, which inevitably leads to re-processing;
2. Wrong choice of tool, which affects the quality of grinding;
3. Work at high speeds, which contributes to the appearance of depressions and grooves on the surface;
4. Polished walls remain without protective coating which causes the wood to darken.

Sanding is a complex and time-consuming job that requires a lot of patience and a competent approach. It is not easy to do it yourself, without certain skills and experience.

Professional grinding services

The specialists of the company "Master Srubov" are highly qualified, have extensive experience and proven work skills. All this provides high quality polishing, which we will perform in accordance with the terms specified in the contract. In our work we use modern professional power tools, which allow you to achieve perfectly smooth and flat surface. If you need high quality sanding country cottage, country house or a bath, we will perform work of any level of complexity with great desire. Contacting us is very simple - on the page you will find all the coordinates of our company, and you can also leave your application.

Calculate the cost of painting and insulating your home right now

Having built a house from logs or timber, the question arises about its external decoration. If the log house is built of logs, it must be sanded and unnecessary flaws, the remnants of the bark, removed. Even if everything suits you in appearance, then you still need to do this to extend its service life. Grinding a log house is, so to speak, a mandatory necessity.

If you leave the bark on the log house, then over time it will begin to rot and mold will appear on the house. There is also a high probability of damage to your building by insects such as bark beetles. Unsanded and unpainted wood will quickly darken and lose its former beauty.

If the house is built from ordinary or profiled timber, there will be no bark on it, but polishing the log house will remove flaws, improve the appearance and simplify further processing and painting.

Modern grinding tool

Such work as grinding a log house or a bath cannot be done without a modern power tool. With its help, the work will be done not only quickly but also qualitatively. On sale you will find many various options, we will consider them below.

There are several types of grinding tools:

Belt sanders

Delta grinder

eccentric sander

This is a good kind of this kind of tool, it will easily cope with many jobs. With it you can sand flat surfaces, if necessary it can even be used for sanding logs, although it is not the best option. He will not be able to process many places of a cylindrical log, but if you wish, you can still try it.

Belt sanders are used for aggressive and rough surface treatment. This tool can be used not only for processing wooden surfaces, it can easily cope with plastic and metal.

The machine can quickly remove a thick layer of the surface, for example, you can grind an unplaned board, timber, log.

The working mechanism is an abrasive belt closed in a ring. A wide variety of these tapes with different grains is commercially available. Please note that the coarser the grain, the rougher the surface is processed and the thicker the layer is removed.

When buying such a tool, you should pay attention to the width and length of the abrasive belt used in the tool, and the speed of its rotation is also important. Standard sizes are as follows: 76x457 mm, 76x533 mm, 76x610 mm, the speed should be in the range from 150 to 500 meters per minute. Depending on the amount of work that lies ahead for this tool, you need to select the power, mainly it ranges from 400 to 120 watts. a good plus this tool will have the ability to smoothly switch the speed of rotation of the tape, as well as automatic centering of the tape - it will not allow the tape to slip even with circular movements of the tool.

There are two types of abrasive belts for such a tool - a surface made on the basis of aluminum oxide or zirconium oxide. For wood, zirconium tape is used, it makes the processing more aggressive. But aluminum oxide is used for fine metal processing, with such a tape you can even sharpen a tool.

With this tool, you can process any flat surface, it can be wood, metal, plastic, and even plaster or putty.

The grinding process is carried out thanks to the circular and oscillatory movements of this tool. The amplitude can reach 5 - 6 mm and even more. With it, you can do fine processing, the degree of which will depend on the amplitude of the oscillations, which can be smoothly adjusted by the tool.

Grinding is carried out by the sole on which it is attached sandpaper. Therefore, consumables for it can be bought at almost any hardware or hardware store.

random orbital sander

An eccentric sander is similar to a orbital sander in many ways, but instead of a rectangular sole, it has a round one. Its purpose is to do grinding and polishing. This is done by more complex movements of the sole. It is the best suited for grinding a log house. . Its weight is small, approximately 600-800 gr., which allows you to work with it even with one hand.

The working area can be special nozzles with felt, grinding discs and sandpaper are also used.

Usually, in such a tool, both the amplitude of the oscillations and their frequency can be adjusted, which is very convenient for use.

grinder for grinding
After viewing the tool, you will understand that not all places of the log house can be processed with grinders, for example, the ends and grooves for such devices will be inaccessible.

But what to do, what tool can be used for such places? Here, a grinder will come to our rescue - this is an indispensable tool for the home.

To use it to grind wood, you need to buy special plastic nozzles. And if you have work to do with logs that still have bark, you can first go through the paint stripping disc, this will speed up the process.

Since sanding a log house is a lot of work, you will need to stock up on a considerable amount of sandpaper.

Grinding a log house - a technological process

So, to begin with, we will prepare the necessary tool for our work. We will need:

• random orbital sander
• Bulgarian little
• Chisel 20 mm

Consumables:

• sandpaper for eccentric sanders with a fraction of 40 and 100
• sandpaper for a grinder with a fraction of 40
• flat plastic nozzle for grinder

Before starting work, you need to break it into several sections, especially if the wall has a large area. This is done so that the sanded sections of the log house are painted. no later than 7 days otherwise the tree will darken and you will have to do it all over again.

Grinding a log house according to technology is this: first we choose small plot walls, which we can polish in no more than two to three days, then we make a one-time pass with paint. This gives us a guarantee that the treated area will not darken.

If a person is a professional, then he can process no more than 8 square meters per day, and for a beginner this area is even smaller. Focusing on these figures, you can already designate for yourself the scope of work for the day.

Also, you should take into account that the longer the log house stood without processing, the more difficult it will be for you to sand it, because you will have to remove a thicker layer of wood.

Grinding is carried out in two stages, at the first stage, the log house is polished with an eccentric grinder with sandpaper of fraction 40. In the process, we remove the darkened wood but raise the pile, which results in a very low-quality grinding that will not allow painting. To remove the raised pile, a second pass is made, but at the same time, sandpaper with a fraction of 100 is used.

Of course, when working, you can use other fractions of sandpaper, but the above options have already been tested by craftsmen.

When grinding a log house, as you understand the main tool is an eccentric sander, it allows you to do everything evenly without leaving recesses. The grinder is not used in this case, it is used only for grinding the ends and grooves. In this case, you need to use flat nozzles made of thin plastic, while rubber nozzles are not recommended, because they not only quickly become unusable, but also leave a black mark.

When working with a grinder, sandpaper with a fraction of 40 is used, if you set it to 100, then it will burn the tree. It is also desirable that the grinder be able to regulate its speed - this will be very useful in such work.

Difficult available seats in the log house of the house, these are corners, while there is no power tool that could process them well, therefore, for cleaning in such places, a chisel is used to remove a thin layer. You can clean them before or after grinding, it does not matter.

As you can see, polishing a log house, even with modern tools, is a laborious process, but unfortunately you can’t do without it.

(or you can go to the first photo in the left menu). But, in addition to the installation of the bathhouse and the erection of a roof over it, in 2011 we managed to hold a number of events in the house itself. Completing the set-up process new apartment, we will devote the whole next 2012 year to "bringing to mind" the house and, if possible, the baths. This article will talk about the features of grinding the walls of a log house (in this case wooden walls of the house).

When you communicate with construction companies at the stage of designing and manufacturing a log house, somehow you can’t even imagine all the burden of problems for the further construction of a house or a bath that you will have to take on your shoulders in the future. And this situation is certainly true not only for log houses and baths, but also for any suburban construction.

But when all these problems begin to arise, you begin to appreciate the charm of human relationships, because in one company they will simply turn away from you as soon as you have paid the last payment, while in others they will be happy to help and answer questions even several years after completion construction of a log house. I am very pleased that the company "Rus Log" belongs to the second category, in fact, that is why I ordered a bath from them this year, and for the same reason I am writing these lines.

Having filled the "bumps" in the construction of the house, and now also the baths, I understand that other developers will also face these problems. Therefore, let our experience and the advice that we received from the specialists of "Rus ..." become available to other clients of this company, and simply to connoisseurs of wooden chopped houses and baths.

So, our today's story is devoted to grinding the walls of the house. Well, to be more precise, this year we sanded and painted the internal walls in the house, as well as the internal and external walls in the log cabin of the bathhouse. We will tell you about the polishing of the bath and its coloring. in separate articles (see links), there we will briefly dwell on the features relating specifically to the work on the bath. We will also talk about painting the walls of the house in a separate article, this issue was also not as simple as we thought before.

Photo of the living room in 2011 after sanding the walls.

How our walls look after grinding can be seen in the previous photo. Of course, the house began to be perceived in a completely different way. The only thing, my main mistake is that it was necessary to engage in grinding before installing floors and ceilings, but we will dwell on this in more detail a little later. And now let's go through all that difficult path together, which led to such beauty.

Note from autumn 2013. It is always interesting to look ahead a little in order to understand, but actually "for the sake of what all this was started." In the next photo you can see how the living room began to look after grinding and painting the walls. Well, at the same time, and after a number of other events (from the fireplace and underfloor heating, to tiles and doors).

Photo of the same living room, but taken in the fall of 2013.

The initiative is punishable or "come on guys"

At first glance, you can’t say that sanding the walls of a log house is a hard job that requires skill, strength and endurance. When about two years ago I found out approximately how much it would cost me to polish the house from the inside, I said: yes, what kind of nonsense is this, I can do it myself. Just think - drive and drive a grinder. I was also "motivated" by my good friend and senior comrade, let's call him Yu.V., since I did not ask for his consent to this publication. At one time (being a teacher, having two higher educations, a PhD and an associate professor), he built a country house for his father-in-law in a couple of weeks. In short, in addition to a refined mind and a rather sharp tongue, which many were afraid of, he also had golden hands.

Of course, at work we often discussed the construction of my and his dachas. And once he asked me, what did I actually do in the country with my own hands, because you need to put your soul and heart into the house. So, I say, my wife and I seem to have developed the project in agony, I myself planned and bred the electrician, perhaps that’s all. And he told me - well, can't you yourself be able to sand the walls, and indeed, I thought, why not. By the way, Yu.V. he was very unlucky with the builders, he also built a log house, but he ordered it through mutual friends, and they let him down.

Hard men's work - grinding the walls of the log house

No sooner said than done. I already knew at that time that they were grinding log walls angle grinder, in the common people - grinder. Entering the big hardware store, I asked to show me all the nozzles for the grinder. Having chosen two, in my opinion, the most suitable ones, I asked them to choose disks for them. I also already knew that wheels with a grain size of 80 are used for grinding. I especially liked the German attachment with Velcro, it was, of course, a little expensive (about 1000 rubles), but, in my opinion, very convenient.

Arriving at the dacha, I dropped everything and rushed to try my acquisitions in action. I had the good sense to start from an "invisible" place. In the bathroom on the first floor, I chose the wall where the shower cabin will stand. The very first attempt at polishing showed that it was far from being so easy.. The grinder was simply pulled out of my hands and thrown from side to side, from under the circle on a new skin, sparks began to fly in all directions, because of this, bullies arose, I could not make a smooth strip, everything turned out to be some kind of waves.

But the most unpleasant surprise was waiting for me when I tried to grind the log at the horizontal junction between the crowns. My vaunted German nozzle with its upper (i.e., back to the skin) part left a thick black streak on a nearby log. Another thing that struck me unpleasantly was that the 80s disks wore out at a very incredible rate. Brought packaging discs melted before our eyes. I tried the second nozzle in the case, where the grinding disc was fixed with a bolt. As it turned out later, this was already closer to the truth, but even here it was very difficult to grind logs in cuts and at joints. I reinstalled the German Velcro attachment, but in my disappointment I forgot to attach the sanding disc itself. When I began to guide the grinder along the log, I immediately felt that something was wrong. And then it dawned on me that “it was not about the reel ...” and I myself ditched the nozzle for almost a thousand rubles. This was the last "dot over i" and I finally realized that everyone should mind their own business.

Later, watching the work of the guys and talking with them, I realized some of my mistakes. First, you need another (second) nozzle. Secondly, the new disk must first be slightly grinded off on the auxiliary section of the log (usually in openings for interior doors, what will be covered with casing boxes in the future) - at the same time, the largest grains fly off and the disk will not “cut” the log and spark. Thirdly, I realized that the grinder should be moved not with the movement of the hands, but with the shoulders and forearms, then the smoothness and parallelism of the movement will be achieved, respectively, the log will turn out to be even and without “waves”. The last recommendation will be clear to volleyball and tennis players. In volleyball, when receiving the ball with two hands from below, you also need to “work” with your shoulders and torso, and not bend your arms at the elbows, otherwise the ball will fly in an unpredictable direction. Similarly, in tennis, when receiving the ball with a racket held with two hands, similar work of the whole body is also required, and not just the hands.

We digress a little. In short, even if I knew all this in theory, it would still be hard work in practice. But it was still necessary to scrape with a chisel upper layer wood in the corners. In short, then I clearly decided for myself that I needed to do something around the house or the bathhouse, but I needed to do what I was good at.

By the way, to be objective, I was not the only one who had such a “crazy” thought. With the light hand of the staff of "Rus", I met and maintain friendly relations with Maxim Marinin, our famous figure skater and just a wonderful person (editor's note, more about the bathhouse built by Maxim Marinin is described).

Since we are in approximately the same state with him, in the sense of being dragged into the construction process, we periodically exchange interesting and useful information on various aspects of construction. So, once Maxim wrote that he had bought a good grinder (not a grinder, but a specialized grinder) and plans to grind the log cabin of the bath on his own. He, like me, was alarmed by the cost of this work - at first glance, it seems overpriced. I told him my above-described story and recommended nevertheless to give it at the mercy of specialists, and to do something more familiar myself. But Maxim, as determined as I am, decided to try everything on his own experience. The result turned out to be similar, we both realized that “Caesar is Caesar’s”, and it’s better to earn money in the usual way for yourself – it will be more efficient.

Tools and consumables for grinding

Before bringing the builders to the country, I took care of buying grinding discs. The question turned out to be rather non-trivial. But first, a few words about the process itself. The main plane of the chopped walls is cleaned with a grinder with a nozzle on which a grinding disk is bolted. But there are places where the grinder does not reach - these are the corners of cuts, walls near the ceiling or near the floor (if you, like me, have already installed the floor). There you have to work manually - with a chisel. The photo below shows two such corners of the cuts. The upper corner has already been cleaned with a chisel, but the lower one has not, circles are clearly visible where the disk could get.

Work with a chisel in the corners of cuts. A layer of wood has been manually removed in the upper corner, but not yet in the lower corner.

It is clear that grinders, nozzles and chisels are the concern of builders, but I advise you to take care of grinding discs separately so that unpleasant incidents do not happen.

Grinding discs left "packs". The photo on the left shows in blue a mark on the grain size of the disc (60)

The best option is if the builders take over the "extraction" of grinding discs, it is more difficult if you have to do this (for example, buy more). The fact is that these disks require a very large number. Offhand, it took us about two and a half boxes for the house and the bathhouse. Each box contains 8 packs, each pack contains 25 discs. In total, there are 200 discs in a box, in total it took about 500-600 discs. As the builders told me, square meter walls goes from 1 to 3 discs, so count. By the way, you need to calculate the area, and hence the amount of work, and therefore your costs, correctly. Masters use the so-called height factor. The fact is that your walls are uneven, but with rounded crowns. Therefore, several control measurements are made, a tape measure is taken, and all the bends of the crowns are wrapped around the tape. It turns out that with a ceiling height of, say, 2.5 meters, the actual height of the wall is about 3 meters. This was news to me, but not to you now.

Let's get back to disks. If you go to a hardware hypermarket and try to buy that many discs there, you'll find it cheaper to cover the walls with gold leaf. Of course, I had to buy several dozens of discs on the fly, especially with an increased diameter (150 mm), to be honest, this is not a cheap deal.

So what to do? There is a way out: turn to " domestic manufacturer"! The thing is that the supermarkets mostly sell imported products, and the specialists of Rusya Log recommended to buy discs from the Luga Abrasive Plant - they are several times cheaper, and the quality is not much inferior to imports. It is clear that not everyone will be able to “hit the road” to Luga, look for this plant, etc. It will be optimal here if the builders organize it. I am grateful to the leadership of "Rus ..." that I had no problems with this. Moreover, usually large construction companies, like Log Rus, buy these discs in bulk (wholesale means several dozen boxes, i.e. thousands of discs), which costs them much less than if you came to the factory yourself. Unfortunately, or rather to my sincere amazement, the Luga plant has neither a representative office, nor even outlet in St. Petersburg, but it's a pity.

And one more aspect concerning disks is their grain. For final grinding discs with grit 80 or 60 are used(See the circled numbers in the photo above). Of course, the result of using sandpaper 80 is more pleasant to the touch, but most likely it will have to be sanded already in the second layer, and the first time you will go through a coarser sandpaper. In the house we made the 80th, and in the bathhouse the 60th, but already in one layer. In principle, it feels almost imperceptible, especially after painting. By the way, looking ahead, I’ll say that after the first layer of water-based varnish, you will have to sand the walls again, this time just by hand, without a grinder, because. it is water varnish that lifts all the pile formed on the surface. But we will talk about this in more detail in a separate article.

In addition to 60 and 80s, builders use sanding discs grit 40- for grinding the ends of logs, of course, this skin will take much less. I repeat - what ideal all these problems should be taken over by the builders so that you do not have to leave your work and business to rush around St. Petersburg and the Leningrad region in search of certain grinding discs.

Grinding at home: the first and unsuccessful attempt or the role of recommendations

So, by the middle of summer, I had a paradoxical situation, that there seems to be money for construction and there are builders for individual work, but I can’t start work. The fact is that at that time I was kept by grinding the walls in the house. I could not install casings and internal architraves on windows (the specifics of our windows are described) without grinding the walls. For the same reason, I could not lay plumbing communications around the house, make warm floors, etc., respectively. But the most important thing is the fireplace. The fireplace is a “separate song”. It was designed for us according to the author's project based on the Swedish Keddy fireplace cassette. We decided to make the lining of the fireplace from soapstone, it was ordered in the winter and by the summer it was finally ready. The installation of the fireplace, as you understand, was also held by grinding. And the fireplace itself held the insulation of the roof of the house (by the way, we did not have time to make the roof this year and postponed it to 2012).

I called Denis Migachev, Gen. director of "Rus" and asked if his "fighters" could polish my house, and at the same time a bathhouse. He replied that, unfortunately, all the brigades were busy and were on the road, that at best the nearest brigade would be free in 3-4 weeks. I did not want to wait so long, the summer is passing. We called a call among our acquaintances and one distant friend of a friend said that he has in mind people who have experience in grinding walls wooden houses. At that time, I did not yet know all the intricacies of grinding and considered that this team would cope with this laborious, but in principle simple matter.

The following Friday, I went and picked up two "specialists" from the previous facility and brought them to my dacha. The guys were from Ukraine, I organized their whole life, we walked around the house and examined all the walls. Andrei, who was their eldest, said that to grind the logs adjacent to the floor and ceiling, I would need larger diameter discs (150 mm), which I should have bought.

Half a Saturday I ran around the shops in search of these discs - all to no avail, with Velcro - please, but there were simply no such clamps. Desperate, I again called my "magic wand" Denis Migachev. He immediately said - you need to go to the Castorama store, and indeed, there I took all the available disks of the size I needed to zero, by the way, the price tag “bited”, each disk cost 50-70 rubles. Denis also scolded me that I did not wait for his guys, because here he unequivocally guaranteed the quality. I had to apologize and refer to the unacceptable, as it seemed to me then, delay in time.

Arriving home, I called my grinders, “reported” that their request had been fulfilled - the disks had been bought. And this Andrei answered me and said that, in fact, they had already moved out of the dacha, they were not interested in work and the conditions did not suit them. I was just taken aback by what I heard and slowly sat down on a chair. Wait, I say, I am inclined to dialogue, if there are problems - voice it, if this is really the case, I am ready to raise the price of the work. He answered me that the house is old (although the log house is only 3 years old), it is very difficult to skin, you have to first go through a coarse-grained skin, and then again - 80-coy. I hung up and began to come to my senses. In my 45 years, no one has ever done this to me. Well, find the courage in yourself and tell the customer that you are not interested, but say it to his face, and like this, leaving someone else's trusted house, to run away like a rat from a sinking ship - it was incomprehensible to me. When I came to my senses, I called this Andrey again and already calmly “put him in his place”, explaining that “adult boys” don’t do this, and that if I find even the slightest problem in my country house, then I will find him with a friend at throughout the Leningrad region. In fact, I was not dissembling, if this became a matter of principle, then thanks to the connections of the wife, we would be able to “ruin the life” of these guys, we just usually don’t want to waste time and get our hands dirty on such people. My principle is to draw conclusions, forget and move on. So we did. The next day we arrived at the dacha, found the keys to the gate and the house in the place indicated by the unfortunate builders, checked that everything was in order and in place. They began to think what to do next - time goes by.

Second attempt - with a guaranteed result

As you understand, my next call was again to Denis, I told him the story that had happened and asked him to reserve his builders for me, we had nowhere to go, so we were ready to wait. Denis promised to speed up the process, and indeed, after three days they removed a specialist named Adrian from the facility, called his cousin Ivan, a novice true specialist, to help him, but Adrian promised to organize the learning process “in the course of the play” and guaranteed that everything would be on the the highest level. It was supposed that in a week or two a couple more guys would come, but later we refused this, because the pace of the builders' work, and most importantly the quality, satisfied me.

The main task that I set for the grinders was to quickly sand and paint the house, first of all, those rooms where there would be a fireplace and a chimney (on the second floor). In the second turn, I decided to polish the inside and the bathhouse in order to “close the topic”. Looking ahead, I note that later we decided to polish the bathhouse outside as well, “to walk, so walk”, although, of course, additional justifications appeared for this step.

Work has begun. The guys started from the second floor, so that the dust would not settle on the work already done. I will say right away - the dust, of course, was “unmeasured”. To clean the walls from dust, it is convenient to use ordinary brooms and a vacuum cleaner. Without a vacuum cleaner, of course, it is difficult, especially later - when you need to clean the corners and joints of logs before painting. I still had a “technical” vacuum cleaner, which we bought when renovating an apartment, here it served again.

Grinding is mountains of garbage... ... or fertilizer, depending on how you look :)

Based on the results of the work of the first “Uh brigade”, I realized that it is necessary to protect the mechanisms plastic windows and roof membrane. Therefore, I bought several packs of film (it is thin, but there is thicker - the second is better) - it is usually used to cover furniture and floors during repairs. I asked the guys to first of all close all the window openings with foil and staple the entire roof on the second floor (now from roofing cake in the house we only have tiles and a waterproof membrane), the rest of the internal roofing we planned to do after installing the fireplace, sanding and painting the walls.

And so the work began to boil. I will say right away that it was a long process, in total the guys worked for me for almost a month and a half. But during this time, the house was polished from the inside, the bathhouse was polished on both sides, all this was painted three times with varnish, and inside the premises - after the first layer of varnish, the pile that appeared was also manually cleaned with sandpaper.

Watching their work, I studied the technology of grinding for the sake of interest. Let's focus on the most important points this process. Grinding walls from a gun carriage can be divided into three components: processing the upper and lower edges of the log, as well as processing the flat part of the log. For round logs, everything is somewhat more complicated, where you have to smoothly go around all the roundness of the wood. The described steps are illustrated in the following three photos.

Processing the bottom edge of the log

Grinding the upper edge of the carriage log

Wall plane processing

Particular problems were delivered by sections of the walls under the ceiling and near the floor. Therefore, once again I remind you of my recommendation: the log house should be sanded BEFORE installing windows, installing ceilings and floors. The main thing is that the log house was under the roof. Here, the presence of a lag is welcome, it is convenient to temporarily throw boards on them - this is what happened to me in the bath.

By the way, let's talk about one more recommendation that came to light in the course of work. Of course, it is better to grind a new frame than an already settled one. In addition to the mentioned windows and floors, the process of solidification of wood also comes into play here. Accordingly, the consumption of skins on such a log house will be slightly higher. True, belated grinding also showed advantages, we will talk about this in more detail in a future section on warming the log house after shrinkage.

Let's get back to the difficult areas. The floors were a little easier. We plan to arrange underfloor heating on both floors, heated by a heat pump, so the floor level will still be raised by 5-8 cm. This allowed us not to “fight” for the lower edges of the walls. But with the walls near the ceiling of the first floor, I really had to suffer. While we plan to do on the first floor stretch ceiling(they hide the unevenness of the logs of the walls well), they will stand apart from the existing draft ceiling from OSB by only 2-3 cm, so grinding the upper parts of the walls was fundamental. Several times my workers shrugged and said that they would not be able to sand this or that section of the wall. We understood that, of course, this can be done with a chisel, but this is absolutely hard labor.

I am an optimist and an engineer in my life, so every time I reassured Adrian and every time we found a solution. These solutions were born "in pain", therefore, given that they may be useful to you, we will give them briefly.

Grinding hard-to-reach places under the ceiling, in some places I had to modify the tool, be smart or just work with a chisel

"Know-how" that appeared as a result of brainstorming:

• the guys cut off the rubber attachment holding the sanding disc and the grinding disc itself. Thus, from a disk with a diameter of 125 mm, we obtained a disk with a diameter of 70-80 mm, which made it possible to work in many hard-to-reach places;
• somewhere I closed my eyes to the “waves” on the surface of the crowns, because I understood that this zone could be polished only with short vertical movements;
• without hesitation, I allowed the guys to “scratch” the draft ceiling, because it didn’t work out otherwise;
• where it was completely tight, I had to work only with a chisel, but there were only two such places left, and then small ones.

By the way, my experiments with the grinder came in handy. In one of these cases, the emotional Adrian said in his hearts that he couldn’t get in there. And I look and think, why do you need to make movements from top to bottom, and if you turn the grinder over and start working from the bottom up. Adrian in response tells me, yes, it’s impossible, the grinder will simply fly out of my hands. Let's try, I said. Do not believe me, in front of the "amazed public" I managed to carefully clean up the previously inaccessible area. Damn, "skill does not drink away," even I thought.

Of course, one cannot fail to mention one more rather laborious stage of work - cleaning the surface of the logs in the corners of the cuts with chisels. The photo below shows this operation. close-up from various angles. In the photo - Adrian himself. His brother, Ivan, out of natural modesty, tried to avoid the lens, but I did not insist.

Time-consuming work of manually cleaning the corners of cuts where the grinding disc does not reach.

The same work in the corners of the cuts, but close-up.

On the right side of the photo above, it is clearly seen that the crowns were not completely polished - the guys then processed the veneers for window and door openings separately. This was due to the fact that most of the windows were covered with foil at that time.

The next photo shows a close-up of a wall of round log. Disk marks are clearly visible. This is what the wall looked like after going through a coarse sandpaper with a grain of 40.

Polished wall - close-up. Disk marks are visible. This wall was sanded twice, first with 40 and then with 80. The photo shows the result of rough grinding.

As a result of the work done on polishing the house, the living room simply “played”. To be honest, my wife and I do not regret the money spent on grinding, because it essentially replaces the traditionally expensive final wall decoration. Once one of our friends, having visited our house, asked, what will you sheathe the walls from the inside with? My wife and I looked at him like “Lenin at the bourgeoisie” and said, what are you, for the sake of these wooden walls, everything, in fact, was started!

As a result of grinding, the house began to look like "like new"

In conclusion of this article, albeit a little looking ahead, we will show how the same room began to look, but already with painted walls and installed fireplace. The upper decorative grate is still missing on the fireplace, so the air duct pipes are visible.

Photo of the living room after painting the walls with varnish on water based and installation of a fireplace with soapstone lining.

Do not be surprised that the podium of the fireplace is raised above the floor - this is intended, because on the subfloor from DSP boards insulation will be laid, and then in the underfloor heating pipe screed. According to our plans, the level tiles just should reach the level of the podium of the fireplace.

To take a closer look at the walls, here is a photo of the chimney against the background of the wall of the attic floor. In general, we were satisfied with the quality of grinding and painting.

Photo of the wall of the second floor, on the left - the chimney of the fireplace (finishing with artificial stone)

Ask a question or get a free project calculation according to your sketch

After the log house has settled, it is time to polish it. The task of this operation is to remove the layer of wood that has darkened during drying and achieve a uniform color. On the logs “from under the planer”, irregularities are still removed by grinding. The operation is not the most difficult, but requires attention and takes a lot of time.

Since a large amount of dust flies during operation, it is necessary to have personal protective equipment. You will need anti-dust non-fogging goggles, a respirator. Headphones and anti-vibration gloves will not interfere: it will be more comfortable with them. And it is imperative to protect your eyes and "breather".

• 1 How to grind logs
  • 1.1 Grinding a planed log from the outside
    • 1.1.1 Choosing an angle grinder
    • 1.1.2 Grinding discs
  • 1.2 Grinding round logs
• 2 Grinding the log house in the grooves and corners
  • 2.1 Processing the ends of logs
• 3 Processing a log house inside the house
• 4 How to sand timber walls
• 5 When is the best time to grind?
• 6 Order and organization of work

How to grind logs

Two types of tools can be used for grinding logs and timber: eccentric grinders or grinders with appropriate nozzles.

To give the building an aesthetic appearance, the log house is polished

Sanding a planed log from the outside

It has long been known: how many people, so many opinions. And the choice of a tool for grinding a log house is no exception. Someone works exclusively with grinders, and someone only with grinders. It is more convenient and faster for someone to work with petal discs, while someone does not accept them at all, but works with wire nozzles. You choose. We only tell you how to do it.

Bulgarian choice

For grinding a log house from a planed log (from under a planer), angle grinders are used, which are usually called grinders. Choose not the most expensive, but not the cheapest models. Cheap ones usually break down very quickly: they belong to the household class and have a small working resource. Grinding a log house is necessary both inside and outside, the area is considerable, so the resource of a household tool is barely enough for one or two walls. Therefore, when choosing, it is advisable for you to find either an inexpensive professional or semi-professional model. They are usually in the middle price range.

When grinding a log house, most people work with grinders with different nozzles.

The power of the grinder is approximately 700-1000 watts. If you wish, you can take a more powerful one, but this one is more than enough for woodworking. More powerful ones are harder to work with: they themselves weigh a lot, and it will be more difficult to manage them. And every awkward movement is a hole in the log, which then will have to be leveled.

125 mm discs are the most convenient in work, and choose a model for them. But these are only recommendations. You can work both big and small. Who is used to it.

The idle speed is 10,000-12,000 rpm. Moreover, it is very desirable that the tool has speed control, and better - smooth.

What to look for when choosing a grinder

Pay attention to where the air intake comes from. In order for the grinder to clog less during operation and work longer, the fence should be at the back (not from the sides). And also, it is important that the handles are comfortable, and the machine itself is not heavy. Therefore, try on each, hold it in your hands. Pay attention to the length of the cord - the longer, the more freedom of action it gives.

For convenience, it is better to have two machines. The fact is that the processing takes place at least twice: first, a layer is removed with an abrasive with a large grain, then it is polished with a fine one. In order not to constantly change nozzles and not overheat the tool, it is more convenient to have two machines. One is still not enough for the whole volume. And so the work goes faster, and the tool works in normal mode - it does not overheat.

Nozzles on the grinder is better to take not rubber, but plastic

There is one more subtlety: for work it is better to use not a rubber, but a plastic nozzle (on which the abrasive is attached). Plastic, though thinner, but lasts longer. If you accidentally touch the surface of the wood with the rubber nozzle, a black mark will be left on the wood. This will not happen with plastic.

Grinding discs

For the initial rough grinding, petal grinding discs with a grain of 40-60 are placed. You can use just an abrasive with the same grain. It's convenient for anyone. The consumption of disks is large: one for 3-5 meters of a log. It can be more or less: it depends on which layer you need to remove and how even the log was before processing. If it was rounded - the consumption is less, if from under the planer - more. But it’s better not to save on these disks, as soon as it gets dirty - change it: the work will go faster, and the grinder will work with less load.

Grinding discs come with different grains

The consumption of fine sanding discs depends on how carefully you sanded the surface the first time. It is better to take this small abrasive with Velcro - it changes faster. Here the grain size is 100-120.

In addition to discs, you will need to buy pillows for nozzles. On the one hand, they are covered with a sticky compound, to which abrasive discs are then attached. These pillows are washed on the sides, and the adhesive side also stops working. So this consumable will also come in handy.

Grinding rounded logs

Since the surface in such a log house is already flat, using a grinder with a lack of experience will only lead to the appearance of furrows and pits - traces of too much pressure. Then they will have to be compared for a long time with smaller grains. Therefore, eccentric grinders are more often used to process rounded logs. They are less productive, but if pressed too hard, the grinding disc is blocked. This allows even in the absence of experience to make the surface even and smooth.

For grinding rounded logs, grinders are used

The power of these machines is more modest - 200-300 W, the number of revolutions is about the same 10,000 - 12,000 rpm. Many models have a dust collector. When working indoors, this is a big plus, but this plus is also reflected in the price. The principle of selection is the same: good quality, semi-professional or professional model that fits comfortably in the hand. For sanding a log house, it is also desirable to have two machines: on one, put discs with a grain of 30-60 to remove the darkened layer, on the second, install a fine grain of 100-120 to smooth the surface and remove the raised pile of wood.

Grinding a log house in grooves and corners

Regardless of which log the log house is made of, the grooves are polished with grinders. And they take the nozzle smaller than the disk used (for example, for a nozzle diameter of 115 mm, the abrasive is set to 125). If the disc and nozzle are the same size, the tool may jam in the groove during operation. At the same time, the grinder will be pulled out of the hands, which can lead to injury.

Finish logs in the corners with chisels

If the disk is larger in size, then you can work safely. Although it wears out at the edges quickly, you can work this way without fear of injury.

The corners of a log house from logs remain the most problematic for processing. The only reliable method of processing them is with chisels. With this tool, the top thin layer of wood is removed. You can do this before stripping the entire log or after. Not so important.

Log end processing

The ends of the logs are polished with a grinder with an abrasive wheel of grain 40. By adjusting the speed, you select the speed at which the tool is easy to control. It is unrealistic to achieve perfect smoothness here, and it is not necessary, therefore, cleaning with fine grains is not done. With further processing with primers, varnishes or other compounds, the ends are given increased attention - they absorb better, therefore it is necessary to lubricate more abundantly.

Processing a log house inside the house

All actions are identical. When sanding a log cabin from a planed log, if the wall inside is not sheathed with anything, another pass will be added for a fine finish: an eccentric sander with an abrasive disc of 120. This will achieve a perfectly flat surface.

Inside the log cabin is polished to furniture smoothness.

How to sand timber walls

The tools used are the same as in the processing of logs. Concrete Choice can only be done by assessing how deep you need to remove the top layer of wood.

If the bath is built of profiled timber or glued, most likely you do not need to level anything. Just remove the top darkened layer, if any. In this case, with a sufficient level of knowledge of the grinder, you can work with it. If experience is not enough, work as a grinder eccentric machine. It is longer, but the result will be guaranteed, at least good.

The beam needs to be polished in different ways. Depending on its geometry

If the walls are made of ordinary timber, then you will have to level a lot. Here you can not do without a grinder. Moreover, in some places it will be necessary to remove a couple of millimeters of excess - imperfect geometry and errors in cutting bowls lead to the fact that the difference can be quite significant.

There was a video fragment about a very interesting victorious grinding disc, which, it seems, alone can easily cope with rough grinding and easily remove excess thickness.

When is the best time to grind?

There are many possible answers to this question. Traditionally, a log house is sanded after at least the main shrinkage has passed. During this time, the log dries up, and it is easier to work with it. It is extremely difficult to remove even a thin layer from raw wood. If you need to level, then it will take a lot of time, money for disks and effort.

On the other hand, if you have a log house made of dried timber and logs, then you can grind and process it right away. In this case, putting a log house under the roof, it is polished, immediately treated with impregnations and left to shrink in this form. This is done infrequently, although no one forbids it. Usually they act according to the usual scheme.

The log house is polished after it has settled

Order and organization of work

Since a minimum of time should pass between the grinding of logs or timber and processing, it is necessary to process along the crown. You can start from above or below - there is no difference, but they grind one wall completely, then move on to another. It is possible to cover with impregnations and primers immediately after the completion of the processing of one wall, having previously removed the dust.

Often there are questions about what to do if there are blue spots or other dark spots on the wood. These are traces of fungal activity. They do not affect the quality and safety in any way, but they spoil the appearance fairly.

The blue of the wood spoils the look

If you want to use light transparent paints for finishing, you will have to fight with color. For this, there are special compositions for bleaching wood. In this case, the procedure is as follows:

• bleach wood;
• carry out rough grinding;
• if traces of blackness remain, bleach again;
• final grinding.

Then comes the treatment with flame retardants, primers and finishing compounds.

This video presents the experience of a person who himself polished a log house from a log. He talks about some interesting details, so take 20 minutes.