Compositions for the treatment of wood from decay. Home protective equipment. How to treat wood from moisture and smoldering

Installing on site wooden fence, every owner wants him to stand longer. Wood - very beautiful, safe, versatile construction material, but, unfortunately, it is absolutely not durable. And its naturalness is to blame for this: wood is an excellent breeding ground for fungi and bacteria, which leads to decay. However, its service life can be extended by proper processing.

Rotting wood is an unpleasant sight: stains and blue appear on it, it becomes wet and completely changes its structure. It is almost impossible to notice the beginning of this process, and often we learn about the appearance of mold when it has already spread throughout the wood. Interestingly, one of the most feared enemies wooden products, house mushroom, is able to "eat" floorboards in a few weeks. Previously, the huts affected by this scourge were immediately burned so that the fungus would not move to neighboring houses.

Ordinary mold fungi are not so dangerous, however, as a result of their activity, the quality wooden planks and the pillars are getting worse by an order of magnitude. The main causes of mold on wood are:

• dampness - an increase in air humidity up to 80-90%;
• frequent temperature changes;
• freezing and thawing of wood;
• lack of ventilation;
• accumulation of condensate;
• prolonged contact with the ground;
• the destructive effects of the sun and wind;
• excessive wood moisture - 15% or more.

In order to minimize the risk of wood contamination with mold, it is necessary to eliminate all provoking factors. First of all, lumber must be properly dried, and drying in natural conditions lasts at least a year.

In addition, wooden buildings must be placed on the foundation and protected from the penetration of capillary moisture by treating the surfaces with special paints. The most vulnerable parts of the house, for example, the ends of the walls, can be additionally sheathed with boards, and the internal wooden elements it is necessary to protect against the formation of condensate and the appearance of mold with the help of heat and vapor barrier materials. In addition, do not forget about good ventilation of the premises.

And, of course, regular inspection of buildings is necessary in order to notice the appearance of fungus and mold on the tree in time. If the process is quite running, it can only be stopped with the help of chemical treatment. As for the material in direct contact with the ground - fence posts, as well as cellars and basements - to protect wood from moisture and decay, such structures should be treated with special impregnations at the construction stage, ensuring their sufficient waterproofing.

Chemical processing

At large woodworking enterprises, wood is preserved by conservation: soaking in baths and autoclave impregnation. In everyday life, such devices cannot be used, however, modern industry offers us a lot of preparations for protecting wood from decay: both preventive and designed to eliminate the fungus. For the purpose of prevention, paints and varnishes are used, and for outdoor work it is good to use products based on organic solvents, and for indoor better fit safer water-soluble products.

If traces of fungus or mold are detected, varnishes and paints are no longer enough: antiseptics are needed. They can be divided into the following categories.

• Water repellent. These products have a rather pungent odor, but they penetrate deep into the wood and are suitable for processing materials that are constantly in contact with the ground and moisture. They are often used to impregnate basements, baths and saunas.
• Water soluble. Such antiseptics are available in the form of a powder, solution or paste, are odorless, dry quickly and are used to treat wood in residential areas. Their disadvantage is that they are quickly washed off with water, which means they are not suitable for products that are constantly in contact with moisture.
• Solvent-based antiseptics. The surfaces treated with them dry for a long time, but such products are very effective and suitable for keeping wood from fungus and mold both in and out of homes.
• Oil. Antiseptics such as coal tar, shale and anthracene oils are quite toxic and have a strong odor, but they make it possible to protect against mold. wooden poles, sleepers and piles that are constantly in the ground or water.

• Combined. These are perhaps the most powerful antiseptics that effectively protect the tree not only from moisture, mold and insects, but also from fire. They are suitable for processing poles located in the ground and other similar structures, but it is better not to process the internal elements with them due to high toxicity.

Antiseptic impregnation at certain intervals needs to be updated. Difficult-to-wash products stay on wood for the longest time - about 30 years. They are good for processing arbors, terraces, beams, pillars and other monumental structures. Antiseptics for saunas and baths must be used every 10-12 years, but protecting the tree from ignition is effective only for 7-8 years. At the first signs of decay (cracks, stains, discoloration), the antiseptic coating should be renewed immediately.

Attention! Antiseptics for internal works must have certificates confirming their safety for people and animals. At the same time, solutions for external use must be protected from moisture, wind, frost, sunlight and temperature extremes.

I note that protection against moisture and mold works most effectively only in the case of correct processing. It would seem that in order to apply a tool with a brush, a lot of intelligence is not needed, however, even here there are subtleties. Before starting work, it is necessary to protect the body and face with goggles and overalls, and before applying the drug, the surface should be cleaned with a brush, sandpaper, scraper and solvent. Next, the treated wood is washed, thoroughly dried, and only after that an antiseptic is applied, covering, first of all, cuts, ends and areas damaged by mold. After the first layer has dried, a second and, if necessary, a third layer is applied, and then the wood is left for final drying for a period of 3-4 to 15 days.

There are quite a few antiseptics on the market to protect wood from mold and moisture - both domestic and foreign. Among the most effective means Russian trademarks we can distinguish "Biosept", "Bioks", "Wood Doctor", "Aquatex", "Pinotex", "Elkon". Quality products are also produced by such foreign companies as Finnish Tikkurila and Pinotex, English Dulux and German Alligator.

Folk methods

Processing wood from decay can be done using both chemical and folk remedies. In the latter case, you can not be afraid for your health, because folk methods exclude the use of toxic compounds, and at a cost it will be much cheaper than the use chemicals. True, in cases where wood needs enough strong protection from moisture or it has already begun to rot, such methods will not help, and you will still have to resort to "heavy artillery". However, when processing interior spaces houses that are not constantly exposed to moisture, protection folk ways quite justified.

There are quite a few gentle methods of treating wood from decay and moisture. I'll tell you about the most popular recipes.

• Finnish method. This recipe is often used in the West and consists of preparing a mixture of water and flour with the addition of salt, iron sulfate and dry slaked lime. The paste, diluted to the consistency of sour cream, is slightly heated and applied to the surface in 2 layers. Such protection keeps on wood for a long time and is washed out by water only in 10-15 years.
• Burning. You can save the tree in its original state by firing. To do this, moisten the surface and burn it with a blowtorch until Brown. Then the carbon deposits must be cleaned off with a metal brush, and if the wood is exposed to wind and precipitation, it can be further treated with a water-repellent varnish or paint.

• Resin. Logs for fences, which will be in the ground for a long time, were impregnated with hot resin even by our ancestors. It's pretty effective method save wood, so you can safely use it in the construction of fences.
• silicate adhesive. It is one of the cheapest and simple means protection. The glue is diluted with water and evenly distributed over the surface of the wood.
• Vinegar with soda. If mold has just begun to appear, you can sprinkle baking soda on the affected areas, and then spray vinegar on them with a spray bottle.

• Propolis with vegetable oil. Propolis is a very strong natural antibiotic, so wood impregnated with a mixture of its extract with sunflower oil(in a ratio of 1:3), very well protected from attacks by various microorganisms. True, the combustible properties of wood increase by an order of magnitude.
• Car oil. This remedy is excellent protection from mold and insects, however, as in the case of propolis, it contributes to the ignition of wood even with a small spark.
• Copper vitriol. Impregnation of dry wood with a solution blue vitriol(100 g of powder per 10 liters of water) is considered to be a fairly effective protection against moisture and bark beetles. After processing, the wood should be dried outside under a canopy for 2-4 weeks.
• Boric acid and salt. Boil 5 liters of water, dissolve 1 kg of salt in it and add 50 g boric acid. The resulting solution should be soaked twice or thrice on the surface of the wood, allowing it to dry well after each treatment.

When the protective properties are weakened, the wood impregnation must be renewed. Experts advise not to use the same method all the time: protection will be more effective if you alternate various ways processing.

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