A log cabin in a paw is slightly inferior in popularity to the primordially Russian method of joining logs into a bowl, but still has many supporters in our country. And although log cabins built in this way are considered less stable compared to the "bowl", they benefit from a more aesthetic appearance.

The foot log is less stable compared to other felling options, but it looks much more aesthetically pleasing.

Paw cutting methods

A log cabin in a paw is more difficult to perform, but it allows you to use the entire useful length of logs or timber as efficiently as possible. There are three main ways to connect a beam when making a log house in a paw:

direct connection;
connection with a prisek;
dovetail.

Before cutting a log house into a paw, you need to make sure that the necessary tools are always at hand during work:

saw;
axe;
chisel;
a hammer.

It should also be borne in mind that when forcing a log house into a paw, the corners turn out to be a bit cold, so they will need additional thermal insulation.

Preparatory work

Regardless of the chosen connection method, there are several general rules that should be strictly observed. When choosing a material for construction, it must be borne in mind that the thicker the beam, the warmer the building will end up being, since it has fewer connecting grooves.

When arranging the lower - salary - crown, the thickest bars are used for it. If, for the construction, a high-quality leveled beam of the same width was purchased, then for the device of the crown crown it is better to additionally purchase 4 beams with a slightly larger section.

Figure 1. Scheme of cutting into a paw with a tooth.

Before proceeding with laying, you first need to carry out preparatory work, especially if the material for the construction is round timber or an ordinary log. In this case, first, with a planer or grinder, you need to give a flat surface to the side that, after assembly, will be inside the room.

The opposite side is processed to a length of 2-2.5 beam diameters from the end edge. The sides must be processed to a length of 1-1.5 diameters from the edge of the end. When processing, it should be borne in mind that the butt of a log will always be thicker than the top.

The crown crown is arranged in the same way for all methods. The first two beams or logs are laid strictly parallel to each other. The next two crowns are laid perpendicularly on top of them. The square formed as a result of laying is aligned strictly according to the level. Further felling of the log house depends on the chosen method of connection, but in any case, the total depth of the groove for planting the upper crown should not be more than half the thickness of the log or beam.

Direct connection

This is the easiest way to connect in a paw. It has two varieties: one-sided and two-sided. With a one-sided method, a groove is made in both ends of the upper beam for half of its thickness and for the length of its diameter. With the two-sided method, the groove is cut to 1/4 of the thickness, and not only from above, but also from the bottom of the beam or log, so that in the end the total depth of the cut is equal to half the thickness.

Figure 2. Scheme of connection with a slit.

Then the crown is laid on top of the one lying with the selected grooves on two crowns laid perpendicular to it. Two perpendicular crowns are placed on it with grooves, then the upper crown is laid on top of them with grooves, and so, observing the sequence of dressing the crowns, the frame is driven out (Fig. 1). You can also lay in the opposite way, i.e. put the upper crown on the selected grooves, but in this case, during precipitation, more water will fall into the grooves.

To increase the stability of the building, the crowns in the corners are fastened together with wooden or metal spikes. To do this, when laying the upper crown in it and the crown lying under it, a hole with a diameter of 3-4 cm is made. A spike with a diameter slightly larger than the hole itself is driven into this hole so that it can enter it, but with a certain effort. With each crown placed on top, the procedure is repeated, but the hole must be drilled in a checkerboard pattern so as not to fall on an already driven spike.

Prisec connection

This method of connecting to a paw is more reliable, but also much more difficult to perform, therefore, without proper experience in making connecting grooves, it is definitely not worth taking on. When marking and cutting the paw, a ledge of 2-2.5 cm with an area of 1/4-1/5 of the total paw area is left on its inner surface (Fig. 2). Usually this spike, or prysek, as experts call it, is made on a paw so that when laying the crown, it is located at the inner corner of the building under construction.

Figure 3. Dovetail wiring diagram.

From the bottom of the upper crown to be laid, a hole for the spike is hollowed out of the same area and depth. When using for fastening the rims of a paw with a notch, the assembly of a log house turns out to be akin to assembling parts in a children's designer.

Thanks to the undercut, the adhesion of logs and the overall stability of the building are significantly increased. However, such a forcing requires almost a jeweler's accuracy of the tenon entering the groove, therefore, the time for making joints is significantly increased not only due to their more complex shape and the need to additionally make grooves, but also to a large extent for their adjustment.

If, when cutting the paw straight, the groove is sampled more than required, and the logs do not fit snugly together, then a wooden wedge of the desired width can be hewed and driven between them (although this should be an exception, but by no means the assembly rule). When cutting a paw with a cut, if the hole is larger than the spike, the crowns will shift, and this cannot be corrected with any wedges.

Dovetail cut

Many builders distinguish this method of felling a log house as a separate type of joining crowns, although in fact this is the same paw, only improved. This type of connection has all the advantages of a paw connection, but is almost devoid of its disadvantages.

The paws at the crowns with this method of connection are not made perpendicular, but at a slight slope. When assembling the log house, each next paw lies in the previous one, while each middle paw turns out to be fixed between the underlying and upper paw in the form of a wedge (Fig. 3).

This grip is much stronger than other methods of felling in the paw. With proper skill and dexterity, a log house folded into a dovetail can stand for decades even without additional fastenings with vertical spikes. In addition, the angle cut in this way, due to different paw inclinations, is much warmer, although it still requires additional thermal insulation.

But this method of connection also has its drawbacks. Firstly, the manufacture of such a foot is much more difficult even for a foot with a cut, not to mention a direct connection. Without certain cutting skills and experience, you should not even try to do it yourself - just translate the material.

Secondly, the inclined shape of the paw, which provides the log house with additional stability, during rain, contributes to the fact that water along this slope gets inside the paw. After several years of such an alternation of getting wet and dry, the paw is deformed and covered with cracks, so the corners of such a log house require additional waterproofing.

If you want to fold the log house with your own hands, but do not have enough cutting experience, then regardless of how you cut the paws, follow the golden rule: always initially make the grooves a little smaller than necessary.

After trying on, the excess can always be removed, but it will be impossible to build up a paw in case of too large a sample.

Cutting into the paw is indispensable when it is planned to finish the outer walls with siding or other finishing materials in the future. In addition, this method allows you to save 10-15% on the cost of materials. However, the need for subsequent insulation and waterproofing of the corners practically nullifies this savings.

One of the ways to assemble a log house is cutting into a paw. Unlike the most commonly used cutting into a bowl, maximum attention is needed here, since otherwise severe deformation of the walls is possible. If the joints are not accurate, then the corner parts may become cracked, which means that the corner will simply begin to collapse, the house will require serious repairs. In addition, the presence of gaps in the joints will lead to heat loss, the house will have to be carefully insulated, and this is a large consumption of materials.

How to chop a log house in a paw? First, the marking is applied, after which the felling itself is performed in compliance with all standards. With this option, the log cabin of a bathhouse or a residential building turns out to be more economical, the cutting is carried out almost without a trace. This means that the ends of the logs do not go beyond the outer walls after laying, the corner itself turns out to be as even and beautiful as possible.

When deciding how to chop a log house into a paw, it is worth considering that profiled timber or a solid log is used as the main material. This cutting option allows you to complete the work as soon as possible, save wood consumption, make the fasteners attractive and reliable.

How to choose wood for a log house?

A log house made of cedar does not require interior and exterior decoration, thanks to the beautiful texture and healing properties of wood.

Before you order wood for a log house, you need to choose it correctly. When deciding how to cut a log house, you should not forget about this stage. Not only the quality of work, but also the durability of the entire structure will depend on the correctly selected wood. If everything is done correctly, then the thermal conductivity, texture, build quality will be on top. It is best to cut a log house from coniferous species. They are inexpensive, well-processed, and have numerous useful properties. Pine, which is most often used in construction, is popular in this sense. The log almost does not dry out. This is especially important during the construction of a bath, where the walls of the structure are constantly exposed to sudden temperature changes and fluctuations in humidity. In addition, pine has a low weight, it is durable, easy to use.

In addition to pine, larch is also used, it is durable, durable, and does not rot. But it is difficult to process, and this makes the work difficult and lengthy. The paw is cut badly, it is necessary to make some efforts. Of the minuses, it should be noted that larch is a type of cold wood, so its diameter should be larger than for other types.

You can also cut a log house from cedar, which is distinguished by soft wood, but in terms of strength it resembles larch, in other properties it is more like pine.

This material has a pleasant smell. The appearance of the log house is stylish and beautiful, different from the rest. Cedar wood has numerous useful properties, which is a big plus for any building, and especially for a bath. The texture is very beautiful, such a log house does not require interior decoration, the facade is not used either. But the cost of this material is higher than that of the others, although the quality justifies such a price.

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What parameters to pay attention to?

When choosing a tree, you need to pay attention to such factors:

Figure 1. Templates for marking the “paw”.

wood type;
properties of a particular type of wood, compliance with construction requirements;
required size, log diameter;
whether the selected material has useful properties.

Among the properties you need to pay attention to the following:

term of operation, its conditions;
the level of protection of premises from heat loss;
level of protection against adverse weather conditions;
protection against decay, damage by insects, rodents;
as far as wood is convenient in work, easy to process.

In order not to chop down a log house, you can buy a ready-made project, where wood has already been selected, felling has been completed and markings have been applied. As a result, the assembly process itself will be as simple and fast as possible. This option is great for those who do not have any skills in working with wood.

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Paw cutting process

How to cut a log cabin for baths or a residential building with high quality? In this case, you must follow a simple step-by-step instruction that allows you to perform all the work as accurately as possible. The course of work consists of the following stages:

Figure 2. Marking the “paw”.

The first thing to do is to prepare the material for the construction of the log cabin of the bath. To do this, markings are applied to the logs. This is necessary so that the entire felling is the same, the paws must be identical, while connecting the ends of the logs there should not be any gaps. To prevent this from happening, you can use a ready-made template, on the basis of which all markup is performed. An example of a template is shown in diagram 1. The dimensions of the paw depend on how thick the log is. Marking should start with logs of the smallest diameter, then move on to large ones. The material for the lower crown of the bath does not need to be hewn, but the quality of the wood for it should be excellent.
Before starting felling, it is necessary to trim the ends of all logs by about 1-1.5 diameters, while completing 4 edges. The ends should take a square shape, the cross section should remain the same. After that, you should measure the thickness of the edge for each individual log, this must be approached very seriously, since the quality of the masonry of the structure itself depends on this. Next, the ends and all vertical sides must be divided into 8 parts, which will be equal to each other. At the points of division it is necessary to draw lines parallel to the hewn parts. To make it more convenient to work, you need to mark the edges, for example, mark with the letters “AB”, “VG”, “DE”, “ZHZ”.
On the edge marked with the letters "AB", it is necessary to set aside a point 1/8 from the bottom. For the ribs "DE", "VG" is postponed by 2/8, for "ZHZ" - by 3/8. After that, all the marked points are connected by lines, thus obtaining the sides of the paw. They will be equal in “AB” 6/8, in “DE”, “VG” - 4/8, in “ZHZ” - 2/8 from the side for the beam. Example in diagram 2.
Excess wood for logging a bath along the marked lines is carefully removed, for which a chainsaw or an ax is used. The result should be a paw. Often, experts recommend leaving a small spike and groove with the edge, which, when combined, will prevent the logs from sliding off, i.e., the fixation will be as reliable as possible. The size of such a spike should not exceed 1/3 of the total length or width of the log leg. When laying the log cabin of the bath, such a spike should be located very tightly to the inner corner of the building.

After the log cabin of a bathhouse or a residential building is ready, it is necessary to leave it for about a couple of months. This is required to complete the drying of the entire structure, its further shrinkage. Next, the log house is mounted on the prepared foundation, a heater is placed between the individual beams, and the process of caulking the log house is carried out. Then the building is left for another year, its top must be protected with a film. After about a year, a second caulking operation is carried out, and the construction of the roof can begin.

Felling is one of the most economical options for building a log house. Wood consumption is minimal, but careful adherence to the material preparation process is required. If the cutting is carried out with violations, then the corners of the building will begin to collapse, significant heat losses will be observed.

But the paw connection, or, as it is also called, the dovetail connection, remains very popular.

This name comes from the shape of the hewn end of the log, somewhat reminiscent of the straightened tail of a swallow.

Let's take a closer look at the technology of felling in a paw in this article, learn how to properly mark and trim logs to connect them into a dovetail.

Advantages of a log house in a paw

A feature of the connection of logs in the paw is the absence of the ends of the logs protruding outward in the corners of the log house. This allows you to more fully use the entire useful length of the logs. In addition, cutting logs into a paw gives the log house a more attractive appearance.

A blockhouse made of logs connected in a paw is free from such disadvantages, and can be easily sheathed with vinyl or metal siding.

The only disadvantage of the log house in the paw can be considered a somewhat greater laboriousness of manufacturing compared to the frame in the bowl (in the oblo). The marking of the ends of the logs should be carried out by a specialist with experience in such work.

If you have the opportunity, order the production of a log cabin for a team of cutters. But in any case, we recommend that you read the article to the end in order to have an idea about the main features of the cut into the paw.

Marking logs for a log house in the paw

Before starting the assembly of the log house, mark the ends of the logs, starting with a log with a smaller diameter.

When choosing the size of the paw, you need to take into account that the log from the side of the butt of the tree is always thicker than from the side of the crown.

Often, in order for the paws not to move apart at the joints, a special spike is made from the side of the inner corner, rigidly fastening the lower log to the upper one.

From the side of the log facing inside the log house, as a rule, an edge is hewn for the entire length of the log, and on the opposite (outer) side, an edge 1.5-2 diameters long is hewn.

The role of the connecting spike can be performed by a protrusion called a notch. The scheme of the log house in the paw with and without the undercut is shown below:

Also, the dimensions of the paw, depending on the diameter of the log, can approximately be taken according to the following diagram and size table:

Leg connection dimensions
Diameter, mm	Dimensions, mm
Diameter, mm	a	b	c	f

The most convenient way to mark logs for cutting into a paw is with the help of special templates that can be cut out of thick cardboard and mark the ends of the logs by applying a template to them.

Having drawn a circle, and using perpendicular lines drawing a square inside it, you need to divide its sides into 4, 6 and 8 parts in order to connect them with lines, as shown in the figure below, to get different paw profiles - 8/8, 6/8 and 4 / eight.

What the template for cutting into a paw looks like is shown in the figure below:

Recently, craftsmen have come up with various devices that facilitate the manufacture of paws.

The video below shows a special tool for making a paw using an upgraded chainsaw (click on the triangle to view):

Connecting logs in a paw

The assembly of the log house begins with the thickest logs, which form the lower (folding) crown, which is laid directly on the foundation through a layer of roofing material.

The further construction of the walls of the log house will depend on the correct installation of the logs of the crown crown.

After assembling the crown crown, they move on to the next row of logs. Since the next row (crown) will be laid on top of a round log, then in the logs from which it will be assembled, you need to choose a longitudinal semicircular groove along the entire length in order to achieve a snug fit to the rounded surface of the logs located below.

To do this, you need to lay one log on top of another and, using a carpenter's line on the upper log, draw a line parallel to the lower log. After that, the log lying above is removed, turned over and a longitudinal groove is made in it.

You can see how to choose the right semicircular longitudinal groove in a log in this article.

After the groove is made, the log is again laid on top and, tapping along the entire length, they look to see if it fits snugly enough to the bottom. If necessary, remove irregularities and repeat the fitting.

If the groove is made correctly and fits snugly enough to the lower log, then the junction of the logs is laid with tow, jute or moss, after which they move on to the next log.

The logs of the log house, laid with insulation, in the assembled state, are left to dry and shrink. Only after that do the final caulking of the log house and its polishing.

When assembling a log house, it is necessary to constantly control the verticality of the walls and the correctness of the geometric dimensions of the log house in the plan.

***
As you can see, cutting a log house into a paw has its own characteristics that you need to know before starting construction.

Despite some laboriousness, cutting into the paw can be mastered after some practice. Moreover, modern chainsaws can greatly facilitate the work on the formation of paws and longitudinal grooves.

Assembling a log house into a paw with a chainsaw is shown in the video below:

A log house is a log structure without a floor, a batten or a roof, that is, the main structural part of the house. It consists of several...

Cutting walls of log cabins. The first crown of the log house is the crown crown 2, the second and main one is the lower harness 3, into which the logs are cut.

The technology of felling the walls of log cabins "in the paw" is also called a clean corner, a complex and difficult task. The crowns (logs of the log house), corners, all mates of the log house with this cutting method are adjusted carefully and the slightest deviations can lead to irreparable consequences, for example:

The house will be blown through and no seals will help get rid of this shortcoming;

You can “fill up the corners”, if the verticality of the corners of the log house is violated, the house will stand crooked, oblique.

Starting to make a log house, the ends of the logs are carefully marked, starting from the log, in which the top in the upper cut has the smallest diameter, it is called the “standard”, the ends of other logs are marked by the size of its paws. Errors in the marking of the paws leads to a violation of the verticality of the corners of the log house and their tightness. Therefore, marking the paws of the “corners” is the most crucial moment in the manufacture of a log house.

One edge, intended for the inner side of the wall, is hewn for the entire length of the log. The edging, opposite to the inner one, is hewn to a length equal to one and a half to two diameters of the log. The two remaining edges are hewn to a length slightly greater than the diameter of the log.

Cutting "into a bowl" is easier to perform, but there is a problem of selecting wood according to the diameter, which is very noticeable at the ends and corners of the log house. The advantages of this method are that the corners are protected from rain by the protruding parts of the logs, the minuses of the corners are less durable and prone to cracking in the sun, often the bowl is chosen in the lower crown, water flows into this bowl and the corner begins to rot from the inside, it is difficult to finish the exterior of the log house.

The production of a log house begins with an overhead crown. Two logs are laid parallel to each other, maintaining height marks. Usually a hydraulic level is used for this.

After setting the first two logs, two perpendicular logs are laid on them at a right angle and marking begins.

Having placed all four logs of the crown crown, they begin marking the cuts. The marking of the bowl is carried out on both sides of the upper log, then it is cut down with an ax, checking the tightness of the fit of the log. The cutting depth is approximately equal to half their diameter. The top of the stacked logs is leveled and given a round shape.

In order for the logs of the upper and lower crowns to fit snugly against each other, they make a selection of a longitudinal oval groove, the width of which depends on the outside temperature. With this connection, the upper log is placed in the oval groove of the lower one with a layer of insulation. Having drawn the contours of the grooved selection on both sides of the logs, the wood is selected with an ax, after turning the log over with the risks up. In order for the contours of the groove selection to be uniform along the entire length, a template of its contour can be made, which will facilitate quality control of the work. With proper processing of the groove, the upper log should be in contact with the lower one along the entire plane. The width of the groove, depending on the temperature regime, is made from 15 to 20 cm.

Logs in a log house are stacked with butts in different directions, maintaining the overall horizontality of the rows. Moss, tow is laid along the entire length of the log. The logs are stacked on top of each other by hitting a wooden block while simultaneously checking the verticality of the plane of the walls. After the log house has stood, you can finish.

Our manufacturing technology is more complex, because in addition to all of the following, our craftsmen make a root spike.

It is known that the house should stand on the foundation, and you should start with it, but this is a slightly different topic, so the figure shows temporary linings instead of the foundation 1. When the opportunity arises (even after a few years), they will not prevent you from getting a permanent foundation.

A log house is a log structure without a floor, a batten or a roof, that is, the main structural part of the house. It consists of several crowns, the number of which determines the height of the frame. The crown is a rectangular structure, consisting of perpendicularly laid logs, fastened together in the corners by a lock joint.

The first crown of the frame is the crown crown 2, the second and main one is the lower harness 3, into which the logs 4 are cut. The logs tighten the lower harness and carry the floor, and the crown crown serves to strengthen the lower harness and protects it from decay. Over time, it can be replaced. The crowns from the lower trim to the beginning of the window opening are called window sills 5. Next come the window crowns 6, then the window crowns. The first crown crown is the closing crown 7. The structure that serves as the basis for the roof is called the upper trim. It consists of two upper runs 8 and rafters 9. What is 10 rafters and 11 corner veranda pillars is clear from the figure.

Let's agree to call the logs in the crowns, which lie perpendicular to the girders, transverse, and the crowns, in which there are window or door openings, are cut. The logs that form the openings are called "shorty". They can be of various lengths depending on the location of windows and doors.

Traditionally, as a log house was being built in Russia, logs were processed at a height. In some films, you probably saw how a carpenter, sitting astride a log, famously and quickly wields an ax. Let's take a closer look at what operations it performs. First of all, he needs to drag the prepared log up. Then, having made the markup, make a felling along it and lay the log in the place determined for it. Agree, such work at height requires great qualifications and skill. You, as a novice carpenter, are unlikely to be able to process the log with the required accuracy the first time. Surely you will have to repeatedly remove and re-lay the log, adjusting it in place. The slightest carelessness in such manipulations leads to injury. You can make your work easier and significantly protect yourself by installing scaffolding. They must be made comfortable and reliable, supporting not only your weight, but also the weight of the processed log. Therefore, the installation of such scaffolding requires a lot of additional building material and time. But even if all the requirements are met, working at height with an ax (including scaffolding) without sufficient skill is dangerous!

We offer you to build a log house in parts, each of which has a height of human growth. This method is called cutting with subsequent shifting. It consists in the fact that the individual parts of the log house, after being made on the ground, are disassembled and transferred to the main log house. Relays will allow you to do all the work with the ax while standing on the ground, and outdoor scaffolding will not be needed. In this case, we use two relays, since, in our opinion, this is the best option for a novice builder. Let you not be confused by the time spent on additional disassembly and assembly of crowns. They are more than offset by the convenience and safety of work, because a well-equipped workplace is a guarantee of high labor productivity. You will learn more about how the translation is carried out later, but for now we will continue our acquaintance with the terminology.

The part of the tree trunk adjacent to the root is called the butt. Starting to cut a house, you should know that there is no perfectly even log. Any log has a slope, that is, it decreases in diameter from butt 1 to top 2. Therefore, when stacking logs one on top of the other, it is necessary to alternate butts and tops.

When assembling a log house, in order for one crown to adjoin the other more closely, groove 3 is selected along the logs. Another frequently performed operation in the processing of logs is the manufacture of edging 4.

The end of the log, hewn from two parallel sides, is called a "block" 5, the planes formed in this case are called cheeks 6, and the raw, convex surface is called wane 7.

The main structural elements of the log house, which serve as locking joints of the logs, are the "paw" 8 and the "dovetail" 9. For additional fastening of the logs in the crowns, the dowel 10 - pocket 11 connection is used, and the pillars and rafters are securely installed with the help of spikes 12.

You should pay special attention to the selection of the instrument. The most important of them is a carpenter's ax 1. It should fit your weight and fit comfortably in your hand. The purpose of tools such as chisel 2, plumb line 3, hacksaw 4, two-handed saw 5, bracket 6, bayonet shovel 7, as well as tape measures 8, ruler 9, square 10, colored pencils or wax crayons 11 should not raise questions. A low-stretch cord 12 and an awl 13 are used for marking, and a level 14 is used to check the horizontal position. To make a level, take an elastic rubber hose 5-8 m long, about 1 cm in diameter, the ends of which are put on two transparent glass tubes of the same diameter, 15-20 cm long. The resulting device is filled with tinted water. In addition to the level, you yourself need to make a template 15 of plexiglass 2-3 mm thick and a line 16 - the main marking tools, as well as a "babu" 17 - the main "impact" tool made from a birch chock with two staples hammered into it.

If you have the opportunity to purchase a chainsaw - do not miss it. A chainsaw will greatly facilitate your work, save your time and energy.

In order to avoid injuries and other "troubles" during construction, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the pages of special working methods and safety precautions.

You need to start construction with logging. It is best to use conifers - pine and spruce. Aspen is good for making log cabins for baths and wells - it is not afraid of water. But birch cannot be used, as it quickly begins to rot and behaves very "capriciously" during processing. Since it burns well and gives off a lot of heat, save it for your fireplace. After the forest is cut down, it must be debarked and dried.

Structural element	Number of logs	Log length	Log diameter

crown crown	2 pcs. 3 pcs.	820 cm 620 cm	30-50 cm
Bottom trim	2 pcs. 3 pcs.	820 cm 620 cm	30-50 cm
	5-6 pcs.	620 cm	20-35 cm
window crowns	10-13 pcs.	620 cm	20-40 cm
Split logs (window and door)	22-27 pcs.	540 cm	20-35 cm
Closing and overhead crowns	5-9 pcs.	620 cm	20-35 cm
Top runs	2 pcs.	820 cm	20-35 cm
Subrafters	7-9 pcs.	720 cm	20-35 cm
rafters	14-18 pcs.	520 cm	at least 10 cm
porch poles	at least 2 pcs.	300 cm	at least 20 cm
Note: the indicated dimensions are chosen with a margin for trimming.

Now let's choose a place for the construction site. From the side of the future veranda, it is necessary to provide a place for assembling the components of the log house. Then you can start marking the plan of the future home, which is done using a low-stretch cord and pegs. Our task is to get right angles.

BASIC RULE OF THE BUILDER -
LAYOUT DEFINES QUALITY

We will implement it in the following way. We determine point 1. Set aside 800 cm from it and get point 2. On a cord 1600 cm long, measure 600 cm and tie a knot. We fix the ends of the cord at points 1 and 2. Taking the knot, we stretch the cord and get the desired point 3. Similarly, we find point 4. We mark the points obtained with pegs and check with a tape measure all the required distances and the equality of the diagonals with an accuracy of ~ 3 cm.

Next, we will make and install linings for the log house (temporary foundation). Choose wooden chocks about 1 m long and at least 30 cm in diameter. Aspen is good for lining. It is resistant to moisture if it is pre-barked.

Linings must be installed under the purlins of the flashing crown, near the corners of the log house, in order to ensure the correct distribution of the load. The pads are installed according to the level with an accuracy of ~ 5 cm.

Making edging is the most common operation in the processing of logs. In order to complete it, it is necessary to trim the log to size, choose a side for the edge, position the future edge plane approximately vertically, and fix the log with brackets. Do not be alarmed if the log has a curvature. It won't stop you from using it.

On a plumb line at the ends of the log, we draw vertical lines that define the plane of the edge.

We fix the cord with awls in the plane of the edge. Then we make a visual check, looking from the end of the log, and adjust the position of the cord. With a colored pencil we transfer the projection of the cord onto the log. To obtain the second edge line, repeat the same operations by turning the log over.

After that, we fix the log for the teska with brackets, but not much, so that you don’t have to knock them out later with a crowbar. Let's position the plane of the future edging vertically, make notches and, having hewed the log, we will get the edging.

Having a chainsaw, instead of notches, you can make cuts, which will significantly speed up the work.

Finally, we proceed directly to the manufacture of the log house. We begin to make a frame from eight-meter logs (runs) of the overlay crown, on one side of which an edging is made about 10 cm wide. Now we need to process the ends of the runs.

First, cut down the "boobs" with a width of 2/3-3/4 of the diameter of the log. The length of the "doodle" L is a constant value equal to the maximum diameter of the logs of the log house.

At the end of the "doodle" we select point 1, through it we draw the line of the "paw" according to the template with an extension inside the house.

Similarly, according to the template, through point 2 on the outer cheek and through point 3 on the inner cheek, draw a line of "paws".

We draw vertical lines on the cheeks of the log, spaced from the end by the width of the "doodle" of the counter log, and we get points 4 and 5. We make a vertical cut down to line 4-5.

Then it is necessary to lay transverse logs on the "paws" of the runs with "blocks" and, fixing them with brackets, check and correct the dimensions of the log house.

Now you can fasten the runs with linings tightly with brackets.

Drawing is a parallel transfer of the points of the junction lines of the lower log to the upper one. The opening of the line when drawing the "paw" of the overlay crown is chosen to be minimal, but such that the line of the "paw" of the transverse log does not fall on the wane.

In the process of drawing a log, the solution of the line cannot be changed! Let's draw the lines washed down from top to bottom, mark the top of the "paw", and then cut it down. Let's make an average "dummy" on the runs.

To simplify the cutting out of the cheeks of the middle "boob" we will make cuts.

According to the width of the "doodle" of the transverse log, we will cut down the "dovetail" in the run. With the help of the line, we transfer the lines of the "dovetail" to the "doodle" of the transverse log and cut it down. Let's lay the middle transverse log on the runs of the crown crown.

Now let's take a look at the bottom strap. Let's make "doodles" on the runs of the lower strapping, lay them over the runs of the flashing crown. Using linings and a level, it is necessary to ensure that the upper parts of the runs are horizontal and lie in the same plane with an accuracy of ~ 3 cm. It should be borne in mind that the butts and tops in the crowns alternate. We fix the runs with brackets.

For drawing, we select a line solution corresponding to the maximum gap between the logs, plus 1-1.5 cm.

Let's check the selected solution of the feature along the ends of the log. It must be greater than distance 1-2 on both ends. Point 2 - the border of the wane and the inner cheek.

Let's mark the top of the "paws" under the transverse logs.

For further work, we need to master the operation of sampling the groove. Along the entire length of the groove with the "heel" of the ax we will make cruciform notches, and with the "toe" of the ax along the lines of the groove we will select wood. When these two operations are combined, a groove is formed.

After that, you should cut down the "paws" and, having laid the log in place, check the tightness of its fit. To do this, the stacked log should lie on the inner cheeks with a slight overhang. When tilted, it will easily fall into the right place. Then we return the log to its original position and evenly lay tow (moss) on the underlying log. Now you can finally lay the top log on it.

Next, three transverse logs of the lower trim should be made and laid on the runs. To complete the lower trim, it remains only to embed the logs. On the runs of the lower strapping, we outline the places for inserting the lag. As a zero mark (upper lag level), we select approximately the middle of the transverse log of the lower trim. Let's move the zero mark to the corners of the log house and make notches. We put the finished logs in place, outline, and then cut down their contour to the level of the tie-in. Let's beat the lags with a "woman".

In the course of work, you may encounter typical errors.

The log "plays" (the gap between the "paws", loose fit of the log in the groove):
the reason is a knot on the lower log or a poor selection of the groove; correction - cut down the knots on the lower log, knock the upper log with a "woman", select the places of wrinkling in the groove.
Gap between legs:
the reason - the opening of the line when drawing the "paw" was greater than the opening of the line when drawing the groove, or there was a "blockage" of the line; correction - with a line with a solution equal to the width of the gap, draw a groove on both sides of the log and make a selection.
The log "hangs" on the "legs" (loose fit of the log in the groove, there is no gap between the "legs"):
the reason is that the opening of the line when drawing the groove is greater than the opening of the line when drawing the "paw"; correction - with a line with a solution equal to the width of the gap 1, draw "paws" 2 and trim them.

It should be said that the following gap sizes are acceptable: in the "paw" - 0.5 cm, in the groove - 1.5 cm.

Now it's the turn of laying the first window sill crown. First, mark the doorway. It should be noted that openings (both window and door) are made 5-10 cm smaller than the design size. Split logs are fixed with dowels, for which markings are applied on both sides of the logs.

To mark the center lines of the dowel on both logs, it is necessary to remove the "shorty" (log in a split crown). Then, along the center line, the pockets for the dowel are selected with a chisel. The total depth of the pockets should be 1 cm more than the height of the dowel. The dowel should fit tightly into the pocket.

When laying the crowns, a constant check with a plumb line of the verticality of the corners should be carried out. The last window sill in the doorway goes uncut. The uncut log of this crown is also planted on two dowels.

Tow (moss) does not fit under the logs of the last window sill crown, since this crown is removed for the first re-laying. Starting the shifting, first from the zero level we set aside the same distance upwards and make notches at the corners of the removable crown. Then we will remove the last window sill crown and install it on the ground, placing linings 15-20 cm high. In this case, it is necessary to observe the verticality of the cheeks. Using the level, restore the horizontality of the crown along the notches. Let's check the equality of the diagonals in the corners.

Let's start laying out the window crowns, having previously marked the window openings. Recommended height of openings: windows - 110-130 cm, doors - 180-190 cm. "Shorty" window rims are fastened with dowels. Let's lay the closing crown, which consists of continuous logs, and put it on the dowels, transferring the zero mark to its corners. Draw a vertical line at the corners of the frame to be moved, which serves as a control during assembly.

Now it is possible, having marked the logs, to shift them to the main frame, laying each crown with moss or tow. For convenience in work, we recommend making simple scaffolding inside the house at the level of the window sill, for which you install chocks in the corners of the house and fasten them together with poles (two poles along each side of the log house). For the stability of the scaffolding, the poles in pairs must rest against the opposite walls of the log house.

The upper harness consists of two upper runs and rafters. At the ends of the runs, "doodles" are performed, and in the middle - only the inner cheeks. For correction, we will lay the upper runs (eight meters) on the transverse logs of the last window crown (the top of the "paws" on them is not necessary).

Check and correct the dimensions A-B, C-D. Using linings and staples, we will achieve the horizontal top of the runs.

Let's transfer the lines of the inner cheeks of the runs to the transverse logs. Having rolled back the run, we will cut down the “paw” on the extreme transverse log, and the “dovetail” on the middle one. Let's make the cheeks in the upper runs, respectively, the "dovetail" of the transverse log. On the underside of the girders, we will make pockets 4 cm deep for the spikes of the veranda pillars. Again we will lay the runs and, having drawn them, we will cut them into the appropriate place.

We will prepare logs for rafters with a length of 7 m. All of them, except for one, should be hewn into two parallel edges, obtaining sleepers of the same thickness (at least 15 cm). We will cut the raw end rafter with a dovetail into the run so that its top is horizontal.

Let's mark the tie-in points of the remaining processed rafters on the upper runs. Then we cut the rafters (checking by level), cutting the run by no more than 1/4 of the diameter.

You can also correct the upper level of the rafter by cutting it itself, but not more than 1/4 of the thickness.

Next, we make platforms for the rafter legs and under the wind board on the extreme (first) rafter (flush with the rest). If necessary, it should be precipitated by re-drawing. Pull the cord along the ends of the extreme rafters and align the rest along it.

On the veranda sub-rafter, make pockets for poles (the number is determined by the design of the veranda). To eliminate the gap between the level of the lower edge of the rafters (ceiling) and the last log of the veranda wall, draw and cut in a log - a "plug".

Now let's start making rafters. The choice of material, marking and manufacturing of rafters require special care and accuracy, since the strength of the roof depends on their quality. Rafter blanks are selected with the least number of knots. In no case should knots fall on the top of the workpiece, because the tenon in this place will be significantly weakened. It is allowed that the rafters have a slight curvature in the plane of the roof slope. The length of the blanks is determined by the angle of the roof and the length of the rafters. In our case, the angle of inclination is 45°.

Prepared blanks of rafters must be disassembled in pairs and numbered. On the blanks of the rafters, the side on which the crate will be attached should be flat, without protruding knots.

Let's start marking the base of the rafters. Let's make a wash down along the ellipse line and cut the workpiece under the spike, and then, having made the end cut, cut down the spike itself. Next, mark, cut down and cut down the tops of the rafters. We will disassemble the finished rafters in pairs and install them to fit and check the quality of the connections to the rafters. Adjustment is carried out by trimming the spikes or widening and deepening the pockets.

Sometimes they simplify the work on the manufacture of rafters. At the tops they are connected into half-logs, and the bases are attached to the rafters with nails without making a spike. By simplifying the task for yourself, you significantly weaken the rafters and reduce the life of the roof in advance.

Now let's remove the rafters and proceed to the last shift, not forgetting to lay the tow (moss). Then we will lay all the rafters, except for the verandah, and fasten them with brackets apart, in order to avoid their rotation along the axis.

We have come to the final stage of construction - the manufacture of pillars. In a log house, the pillars form the frame of the veranda and, according to their functional purpose, are divided into corner, door, window and intermediate ones. Corner posts are a support for the upper runs, door and window frames are attached to the door and window frames. Intermediate pillars do not carry any additional load and are only a frame for sheathing. The corner posts should have the largest cross-sectional area, and the intermediate posts should have the smallest. The distance between the intermediate pillars is determined depending on the length of the boards used for sheathing the veranda, but in any case should be no more than 1.5 m.

The manufacture of corner posts begins with determining their length and marking pockets. For the convenience of marking, we will make a "fishing rod", at the end of which we will fix a plumb line. With the help of such a device, we will design any of the corners of the upper pocket onto the platform of the veranda transverse log of the lower strapping, while obtaining the distance H. Using the designed corner, we will restore the reciprocal pocket at the bottom.

Having installed the corner posts, we put the verandah rafters in place and fix them with brackets. The rest of the pillars must be made and installed after shrinkage of the log house. Door and window pillars, as well as corner ones, are processed into three edges, the rest - into two. The lower spike of all pillars, except for the corner ones, should be 3 cm long.

The installation of the remaining pillars should begin from the side of the log house, grabbing the already installed pillars to the upper run (veranda sub-rafter) with brackets.

The final operation is the installation of rafters. For its implementation, it is necessary to lay walkways from poles (boards) across the rafters, prepare jibs from poles about 1.5 m long according to the number of rafters and nails 100 mm long. Lay out the rafter legs on the rafters, orienting the spikes opposite the pockets.

We will collect the tops of the rafters with nails and install them, securing them with jibs. When installing the extreme rafters, a plumb line should be used.

Rafters are more convenient to install with three people. Raising the rafters, you should simultaneously move forward, and fixing the spikes of the rafter legs in the pockets, fix them with jibs, checking the verticality of the rafters.

It remains only to fasten the rafter legs with rafters with thin brackets.

So, the log house is ready! But a log cabin is not yet a house. Next, you will need to make a foundation, sew up gables, cover the roof, lay down a stove or fireplace, lay floors, sheathe a veranda, cut in window and door blocks, etc., in general, you will find a lot more interesting work.

The project of a log house offered by us is universal. If its dimensions are proportionally reduced, then you get a very good log cabin of a bath, for example, with a size of 4x4 m. By the way, it is better to start learning carpentry from such a building, gain the necessary skills, gain self-confidence, and then you can safely offer your services in construction to others gardeners.

The construction of wooden houses and baths is gaining unprecedented popularity. This is due to the environmental friendliness and safety of wood, as well as the availability of assembling wooden structures.

Modern felling of log cabins is represented by both the simplest and technologically sophisticated methods that provide maximum protection of the finished log cabin from the adverse effects of the environment.

The final stage of wooden construction is the assembly of the frame. Often, for the construction of wall structures, rounded logs are used, which are securely interconnected with the help of special spikes and grooves.

Overview of felling methods

To understand how to properly cut a log house, you need to choose the most appropriate way to join the lumber.

The most popular felling technologies are Russian, Canadian, Swedish, Finnish and Norwegian. For each of them, various options for joining logs can be used.

Canadian

Cutting into the Canadian bowl is performed on round logs and has a number of advantages:

Increases the service life of lumber.
Provides additional protection for the log house from moisture penetration at the inner corners.
Reduces heat loss.
Maintains an optimal indoor climate.
Simplifies in the channel provided for it.

Russian

Russian felling is one of the most demanded and popular types of construction of wooden houses. Often, it is performed using a round chopped log.

Such material is resistant to increased moisture, mold and fungus infection. The fastening of logs according to Russian technology is carried out in 2 ways - in the paw and in the oblo.

Finnish

For the construction of a wooden structure according to Finnish technology, it is recommended to use round timber and timber prepared from coniferous trees. The preparation of material using Finnish technology is similar to the previous version. The insulating material is laid tightly and deep between the logs, so it is absolutely invisible from the outside.

Norwegian

Norwegian technology involves the use of a log carriage with an oval section. Otherwise, this technology is carried out similarly to the Canadian version. However, the walls with this option for preparing logs are flat, which allows you to effectively save space, especially in small buildings.

Swedish

Visually, the Swedish technology differs from all others in the appearance of the ends obtained. In this case, the crowns are hewn in the form of hexagons. The bowl is also shaped like a ½ hex, which simplifies the process of stacking crowns. The Swedish felling is distinguished by the complexity of installation and high financial investments.

How to properly cut any type of log house in order to get a practical and durable structure at the end? This process involves sawing or cutting out special corner joints and longitudinal grooves on a beam or log for reliable installation of crowns. This can be done in several ways.

The method of felling "in oblo"

Oblo felling is the easiest and most affordable option for the construction of various types of log cabins, which is done manually. The process of preparing building material does not require large time and labor costs.

A similar method involves the removal of logs around the corners of the log house at a distance of up to 25 cm, which leads to a reduction in the size of the finished structure from all sides. For this reason, it has another name - felling with the remainder.

This type of construction provides additional strength to the structure, and the protruding elements protect the corners of the log house from damage and destruction.

The bowl is made in the form of a semicircle with a smooth surface and is not equipped with locks. To prevent possible rotting of logs, it is recommended to carry out timely outside and inside.

Bowl cutting method

Chopping into a bowl - an intermediate option between an okhlop and a haul, is performed in half a tree, while the chopped bowl can be placed up or down.

The arrangement of logs with bowls down is not only convenient, but also practical. This will prevent the accumulation of excess moisture in the cups, protect the joints from rotting. The preparation of logs with bowls down is often referred to as “in clapping” due to the fact that the upper structural element with a bowl is put on the lower one, as if slamming it.

This option of preparing logs eliminates the formation of unwanted voids in the joints between the crowns.

Many novice craftsmen may wonder how to cut a log house into a bowl or thicket correctly? All work is carried out in the following order:

The future log cabin is marked and the logs are prepared in accordance with the required parameters. Each whip is numbered.
The size of the bowl should be equal to ½ of the thickness of the log. Stepping back from the edge of 22 cm, markings are applied with a pencil or nail.
Processing is carried out with a chainsaw or a cleaver to obtain even and smooth edges of the bowl.
A spike for the bowl is made in the lower log, a groove is made in the upper log. During the assembly process, insulation is laid between the individual elements. The assembly of the crowns is done with the bowl down. This is required in order to prevent moisture from entering the joints at full.

The method of cutting "in the paw"

Felling involves stacking logs in such a way that they do not extend beyond the outer corners. This method requires serious preparation and adherence to the technology of laying individual elements.

Reliable connection of the crowns is ensured by the presence of double locks in the corners of the structure. Inaccuracies in the installation of logs can lead to the appearance of cracks and gaps in the finished structure, which in the future is fraught with large heat losses.

To improve thermal conductivity in the corners of the log house when using this processing method, it is recommended to carry out additional insulation and outer skin.

The method of processing "in the paw" provides an increase in the usable area of \u200b\u200bthe premises while maintaining the length of the log used.

Work on the construction of a log house by this method is carried out in the following order: first, the lower crowns are laid, then the wooden base for the floor is mounted, then the flooring is laid and the construction of wall structures continues.

The felling of a log house can be done by hand, having prepared high-quality lumber and choosing the most appropriate laying technology. The finished log house is durable, practical and not whimsical in care, so it can stand for more than a dozen years.