Natural wood is an attractive, but not the cheapest material. Making a wooden table with your own hands is more profitable than choosing a finished model (and in some cases easier than finding a table that would fit the rest of the situation). Due to the absence of manufacturing costs, you can afford not to save on the quality of raw materials.
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What kind of table can you make yourself?
Tables vary in design. Almost any model can be assembled by yourself with some woodworking skills, the right tools and instructions.
The complexity of manufacturing is determined by the purpose, shape and size of the table. From the “technological” side, any table consists of two structural parts: the upper part (the tabletop itself) and the legs.
Table types
Before you make a table with your own hands, you should decide on a suitable model and its features. The type of table will determine the choice of materials (solid wood or chipboard), finishes, as well as a set of tools that will be required for work.
A table on a single support is usually made with a rounded top.
Note!
Models on two legs, connected by a jumper for greater stability, are considered the most convenient.
The easiest way is to make a "classic" table on four legs - reliable and "understandable". At the same time, special attention is paid to the legs. In case of inconsistencies and errors during work, the upper part of the table can be hidden under the tablecloth, but the legs of the table will instantly “give out” hack work.
Types of countertops
The shape of the countertop is selected depending on the style of the room where the piece of furniture is planned to be placed. A round wooden table is suitable for a spacious rustic or Scandinavian style kitchen (the space should be large enough so that the furniture does not interfere with free movement). An oval table is a convenient option for a dining room. Small countertops of the same shape look great on or coffee tables.
Rectangular and wooden countertops are the easiest to make, besides this is a universal form suitable for any interior and a table of any functionality. In the same format, tables of complex designs are usually made, folding, portable or multifunctional. For example, if there is not enough space in the room, but a large number of guests are planned to be placed at the table from time to time, a compact assembled book table would be a good solution, which, if necessary, can be quickly turned into a dining table (by lifting both “wings”) or a work table (by unfolding one side of the table).
Tools for the job
The full list of tools depends on the table format, as well as on the material chosen for work. In most cases you will need:
- or saw;
- or a screwdriver (and various drills for them);
- connecting elements (nails, screws and the like);
- wood sanding machine and;
- means for measuring and marking (pencil, ruler or tape measure);
- protective equipment during work (gloves and goggles).
It is unacceptable to work “by eye” according to approximate calculations - the result will turn out to be far from the desired one. You will also need drawings with the dimensions of each element of the table.
Table top material: chipboard
The thickness of a sheet of such material is usually 16 or 18 mm. For a dining table with massive legs, chipboard can be thin - the design will look disproportionate. It's best to splice two sheets of topping together to give the countertop "thickness". Along the perimeter of the tabletop, they are treated with an edge. The material is sold in hardware stores, it is most often made of plastic, and on one side it is covered with an adhesive base.
The edge on the tabletop is fixed with an iron. The edge is ironed with strong pressure and slowly enough so that the glue has time to melt. You will have to control the degree of melting by looking under the edge of the countertop - the composition will protrude from under the edge and slightly change color. A chipboard table with such an edge, if properly installed, will last a long time.
Wooden table
Table top material: wood
Solid wood is the most expensive of the materials, but also the most durable. It is better to choose hardwood for the table. The best option in terms of price-quality ratio would be a beech or a tree similar to it. Finishing the edge of the tabletop is a curly rail or a baguette. Wood is usually chosen for massive tables, the thickness of the tabletop (and the array) should be about 4.5-5 cm.
It is worth considering the peculiarity of natural wood: over time, it cracks, reacting to changes in humidity and temperature. When assembling the table, it is worth attaching a plywood “gasket” from a 10mm sheet under the main tabletop (the dimensions of the sheet should be 10 cm smaller than the dimensions of the table). It is on plywood with this design that the legs of the furniture will be attached. The table is guaranteed not to fall apart "from old age" even if the wood of the countertop cracks and requires restoration.
Countertop material: boards
Boards are an intermediate material for countertops both in terms of price and aesthetics. A plank table is suitable for a country house or country-style interior, and it is easier to assemble than a solid wood model.
For work, most often choose boards made of spruce or pine. Oak, walnut or birch boards are less commonly used. Their thickness should be the same, the length can be adjusted during the manufacture of the table.
Assembling the base model of the table
First, a frame is prepared that will hold the remaining elements. Four boards of equal length are placed at the same distance. Perpendicular to them lay out the end parts. The base is fixed with screws (self-tapping screws, nails or analogues). To make the frame stiffer and stronger, the other two sides are also reinforced with boards.
The tabletop is made of boards of equal length and width, which are fixed on the base.
Note!
The legs (in the basic version - ordinary blocks of wood) are fixed to the same nails or screws.
The final finishing of the table is carried out after assembly. Boards need to be sanded with a special machine or several types of sandpaper, if desired, the table is covered with stain, varnish or paint.
DIY table
Complex designs: folding picnic table
The folding table differs from the basic model primarily in the design of the legs. This part is technically the most difficult, however, it can be done "at home".
For the legs, you will need to prepare wooden bars (you need to leave a small “allowance” along the length). Any type of material is suitable for the countertop. In the event that the table is planned to be moved, it is worth choosing light and durable - for example, lacquered plywood or wood.
The saw cuts are edged, the legs and jumpers are rounded or cut at a right angle and polished (with a machine or sandpaper).
Folding table
How to assemble a folding table?
The legs are fastened with a bolt (not longer than 3.5 cm). The table is assembled according to the following scheme:
- fasten the legs and supporting elements;
- on the countertop, the attachment points of the support are marked (self-tapping screws are used for fastening);
- all structural elements are numbered to simplify the final assembly;
- final grinding of all surfaces is carried out;
- parts are covered with a protective compound;
- the table is going "clean".
Making a folding table with your own hands is ultimately no more difficult than assembling a basic model, although this will require accuracy in calculations and exact adherence to the drawings.
How to make a wooden table with your own hands video:
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Landscaping is an ongoing process. You build something, you improve it. Moreover, furniture is constantly required and tables are most in demand in the country. And put in the garden, and near the house, and also in. How to make a table for a summer residence with your own hands we will tell in this article using the example of finished projects.
Homemade table from boards from pallets
Dismantled pallets served as the material for this table. Naturally, you can use new boards. Only one condition - they must be dry. You can buy dry ones (it costs more) or buy ordinary ones, put them somewhere in ventilated piles and soak for at least 4 months, or better, six months. In general, any furniture, including, is made from dry wood.
We assemble the table for the street - put it in the gazebo, therefore we will not glue the tabletop boards, but fasten them from below, with the help of planks. This is a very simple country table and very cheap.
Having dismantled the pallets, we get boards with an individual color and pattern. Having conjured a little, shifting them several dozen times in different manners, we achieve the desired result. It turns out quite a nice table.
We take the side parts of the pallet. We use them for the frame of the table. We grind them first with coarse sandpaper, then finely bring them to the required smoothness (grain 120 and 220).
We take the strips that remained unused, with their help we fasten the countertop. We place them in the place where the joints of the boards are located. We use two self-tapping screws for fastening each board with a joint, one for a solid one.
From the processed sidewalls and two boards (also sanded), we assemble the table frame. We fix its parts with self-tapping screws at the end (two for each joint). The frame can be glued or also “planted” on self-tapping screws. Only their length is large. Under each, we pre-drill holes with a drill, the diameter of which is slightly smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screws.
We turn the assembled countertop over and grind it. The order is the same - first with sandpaper with a large grain, then with a fine one.
Next up is installing the legs. We select four boards of the same size, check their length, adjust if necessary. Then again grinding. It's easier than sanding already screwed legs. We fasten the sanded boards to the frame. These will be the legs. For each - two self-tapping screws fixed in a diagonal (look at the photo). For greater stability, we install jumpers at the bottom. About 10 cm can be left from the floor to the jumpers. We connect everything with self-tapping screws so that the boards do not crack, we pre-drill holes.
After removing the dust, varnish again. In theory, the varnish should lie flat, but depends on the wood, so another sanding / painting cycle may be necessary. As a result, we get such a homemade country table.
If you do not like motley boards and traces of old nails, you can make their boards the same design. This table can be rectangular, maybe square. All dimensions are arbitrary - see the available space.
Country table from the remnants of the boards
This do-it-yourself table for giving is assembled from the remains of boards of different breeds and sizes. Pine boards 25 mm thick and 50 mm wide went to the frame of the tabletop, the remains of 15 * 50 mm were left on the legs. We make the frame according to the dimensions you need. This table will stand on the veranda, and it has a small width. So let's make it not wide - 60 cm, and the length is 140 cm. The height of the legs is 80 cm (everyone in the family is tall).
We immediately cut off two long boards of 140 cm each. To make the width of the table top 60 cm, subtract twice the thickness of the board used - this is 5 cm. Short bars should be 60 cm - 5 cm = 55 cm. We fold the frame, following right angles, twist with screws. We check whether the bars are folded correctly - we measure the diagonals, they should be the same.
We cut off the boards four boards of 80 cm each, fasten them from the inside to the assembled frame. You can use 4 screws for each leg.
Approximately at the middle of the height of the legs we fasten the crossbars. This is a shelf frame. The shelf can be used for its intended purpose, and it also increases the rigidity of the structure. We fasten strictly at right angles, checking with a large square.
We put the frame on the floor, check whether it staggers or not. If everything is done correctly, it should stand rigidly. Next, take sandpaper or a grinder and grind.
Let's start assembling the countertop. From the finishing work there were boards of different types of wood, some of which were stained. We alternate boards of different colors.
We fasten the tabletop boards with finishing nails, carefully finishing them with a finisher. On the shelf can be fixed with ordinary nails or self-tapping screws. Then smooth with a grinder. The last step is painting. Very unlucky with the choice of varnish. Bought too dark, did not like the look. Will have to sand again and paint a different color.
Wooden table with glued top
This design features L-shaped legs. They are assembled from boards of the same thickness. In this case, 20 mm. To keep them well, 5 self-tapping screws are needed. Pre-drill holes with a drill with a diameter of 1-2 mm less than the diameter of the self-tapping screws. Then, with a larger diameter drill, we drill recesses for the hats. The diameter can be matched to furniture plugs of a suitable color or made from a wooden rod. Another option is to use wood putty, to which you add wood dust that remains after sanding. After drying and sanding, traces will be difficult to find.
When assembling the legs, make sure that the angle is exactly 90°. As a pattern, you can choose a bar. First, we coat the joint of the two parts of the leg with carpentry glue, then install the screws in the following sequence: first the two extreme ones, then the middle one, and only then the other two. After the glue dries, sand the legs, varnish and dry.
It's time to make the tabletop. It is assembled from boards of the same thickness. Pick up the size you need. You can use fragments of different widths. It is only important that everything looks organic, and the sidewalls of the boards are even and docked without gaps.
We coat the sides of the boards selected for the table top with glue, lay them on a flat surface (some kind of table) and tighten them with clamps. In this case, they managed one, but preferably at least three. We tighten so that there are no gaps in the resulting shield. We leave for a day. Having removed the clamps, we get an almost finished countertop. It still needs to be trimmed - to align the edges, and then sand it. You can trim with a jigsaw or a regular hand saw. Using a grinder is difficult to get a straight line, but you can try. After grinding, we get a beautiful countertop.
Using the same technique, you can make an oval or round countertop. It will only be necessary to draw the appropriate line and cut the glued boards along it.
To make the table look more attractive, we will make a frame. We take a thin bar, process it with sandpaper and fasten it around the perimeter of the countertop. Finishing nails can also be used. Only the planks are also pre-lubricated with carpentry glue, and then with nails.
After the glue dries, we again process the junction with sandpaper.
Now you can attach the table legs. We assemble a table frame from four boards (there is no photo, but you can do it as in the previous paragraph). We fasten it to the back of the countertop with glue, then install furniture confirmations through the countertop. Under the confirmations, a preliminary hole is drilled with an extension for the cap. Holes for fasteners are masked in the same way as on the legs.
We attach the legs to the fixed frame. We put them inside the frame. You can attach with ordinary screws. That's it, we made a table for giving with our own hands.
How to make a wooden garden table with benches
For this table, boards of 38 * 89 mm were used (they dissolved them themselves), but you can take standard sizes. The difference in millimeters will not really affect the results. In the photo below you can see what should happen.
To connect the parts, studs 16 cm long with washers and nuts (24 pieces) were used. All other connections are made with nails 80 mm long.
The parts are installed in place, a through hole is drilled with a drill. A stud is installed in it, washers are put on both sides and nuts are tightened. Everything is tightened with a wrench. How convenient is this option? For the winter, you can disassemble and take it to a barn or garage.
Making seats
According to the drawing, we cut the boards of the required size. Everything is necessary in double quantity - for two seats. We grind the boards, pay special attention to the ends.
We cut the short segments with which we fasten the three seat boards along the edges at an angle of 45 °. First, we assemble a structure that is attached to the seat from below. We take a board about 160 cm long, at the end we attach two short boards cut at an angle to it. Attach it so that this board is in the middle.
Then we attach the legs to the resulting structure (you can use nails). Then we add more boards cut at an angle and tighten everything with studs and bolts.
We attach the seat boards to the resulting structure. Since this is a table for the street, it is not necessary to knock them down close. Leave a gap between two adjacent at least 5 mm. We nail to the supports (which are cut down), two for each board.
We fix the finished seats with four boards 160 cm long. We fasten each leg with studs (if you walk, you can put two studs by setting them diagonally or one above the other).
Putting together a table
The table is assembled in a different way. Please note that for the countertop, the transverse boards are sawn along the edges at 52 °. We fasten them at such a distance that the legs enter. Each board has 2 nails. You can finish, with small hats, or you can hammer deep, and then mask the holes with putty.
Now we need to assemble the legs-crosses. We take two boards, cross them so that the distance between their ends is 64.5 cm. We circle the intersection with a pencil. At this point, it will be necessary to remove the wood by half the thickness of the board.
We make the same notch on the second board. If you add them together, they are in the same plane. We connect with four nails.
Similarly, we make the second leg for the table. While the table is not collected.
Installing the table
Now you need to fix the legs to the structure on which the benches are installed. We put them at an equal distance from the benches, fasten them with hairpins.
Now install the table top. We also fasten it with studs. The last step is painting. Here everyone does as he likes.
Variations on a theme
According to this drawing, you can make benches and a table separately for giving, garden. The design is reliable and easy to implement.
Do-it-yourself table for giving: drawings
It is no secret that furniture is used in the country house that has served its time in the apartment. The table is no exception. However, in country conditions, the furniture that served perfectly at home may not always fulfill its purpose. We are talking about modern tables, made mainly of chipboard. Such tables are not suitable for gazebos, verandas, gardens, and even in a house with high humidity in the off-season, their service life is limited. In such conditions, a wooden table is necessary, but a wooden table is not a cheap pleasure. The solution to the problem is to make a table with your own hands. To do this is quite simple. In addition, this will save a lot, including on delivery.
The simplest table design
The simplest table design is shown in the photo below. At the same time, such a design is the least expensive both in terms of materials and manufacturing forces.
Fig.1.
Optimal table dimensions
One of the advantages of making a table for giving with your own hands is that the table can be made in any size. Thus, the table is easy to adjust to the dimensions of the gazebo, porch or kitchen.
To make it easier to navigate in size, I will give a dimensional grid, which is most often used in the production of tables. The size chart is based on the size of the countertop.
- 60x90 cm. A table with such dimensions is optimal for 3 people. At such a table it is convenient to have lunch, drink tea, etc. Due to its size, it will fit well into any small space.
- 80x120 cm. 4 - 6 people can comfortably sit at such a table. Usually a table with such dimensions is appropriate to place in a large kitchen or on a veranda.
- More than 120 cm. Tables with such dimensions are good for feasts. In the conditions of a summer residence and the limited space of a country house, such a table is mainly installed in a gazebo or under a canopy in the open air.
Naturally, when making a table with your own hands, the size can be made arbitrary, however, in order to be comfortable at the table, you should follow the recommendations given above.
Manufacturing procedure and table drawing
The drawing of the table is shown in the figure below.
Fig.2.
Table legs are made of a wooden bar with a section of 40x40 mm and a length of 70 cm. If you want to decorate the table, then balusters can be used as legs. They are carved, and will make the design of the table more interesting.
The support for the countertop can be made from a board with a section of 25x150 mm, sawing it lengthwise into two halves. For support, you need 2 boards 650 mm long and 2 boards 1050 mm long.
With a countertop, everything is much more interesting. The tabletop can be made in various ways. The easiest option is to purchase a furniture board of the required size. It can be purchased at chain hypermarkets of building materials.
Fig.3.
Following this path, it should be remembered that the furniture board is made by gluing small pieces of boards, and with constant exposure to atmospheric precipitation, it will quickly become unusable. Therefore, a table with a table top made of furniture board must be varnished or painted to protect it from moisture.
Another option is a plank top. Boards can be used in any size. For example, a section of 25x100 mm. This is a simple and cheap countertop option. This option is devoid of the disadvantages that are inherent in the furniture board.
Fig.4.
However, without special equipment, it is unlikely that it will be possible to tightly fit the boards. Therefore, the countertop will have gaps between the boards. It looks good for a garden table. But not very practical.
You can get rid of the gap mentioned above by using an unusual, tongue-and-groove board. It will cost a little more, but you get a smooth, even tabletop.
Fig.5.
As a grooved board, boards for the euro floor can be used. They are easier to find in the store. It is only important not to forget to cut them from the wrong side.
Table assembly
Once all the elements of the table are ready, you can start assembling the table. The assembly of the table is carried out in a certain order.
First, assemble the support for the countertop and fix the legs to it. This is the most difficult moment in assembling the table. As described earlier, the countertop support consists of 4 boards. They need to be connected to each other. This can be done in several ways.
The photo below shows how to assemble the support for the tabletop and fix the leg to it with a special tie.
Fig.6.
This method is the ideal solution, except for the fact. That it may not be easy to purchase a special screed.
Another way is to pull the entire structure together with a wooden block.
Fig.7.
When applying this method, you need to pay attention to the fact that the bar must be sawn off at an angle of strictly 45 degrees. Otherwise, the table will not be rectangular.
In my opinion, the simplest and most affordable option for assembling the legs and supports for the tabletop is to use a metal general construction corner 50x50 mm in size. You can buy it in any store, and it has the correct geometric shape.
The last step in assembling the table is installing the table top. Depending on the type of countertop, it can be fixed in various ways. The furniture board can be attached with corners or with glue. Separate boards with self-tapping screws and glue.
Fig.8.
As you could already understand, making a table for a summer house or a house with your own hands is quite simple. It's important to get creative. Such a table can be decorated with any paintwork. A handmade wooden table will delight you every day and will last for many years.
Wooden tables and decoration ideas
Fig.9.
Fig.10.
Fig.11.
Fig.12.
A poorly designed dining table is best remembered. One that is too low or too high, under which there is not enough free legroom, on which there is not enough space. In order to help you design a table that will only be remembered for its attractive appearance, we will list the basic standards here.
TABLE HEIGHT. Distance from the floor to the top surface of the lid. Usually it is 68–76 cm.
SPACE ABOVE THE LEGS. The distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the drawstring is vertical legroom. The minimum distance is 60 cm.
KNEE SPACE. The distance from the edge of the table to the leg is the space for the knees when the chair is pulled up to the table. The minimum distance is from 36 to 40 cm, the optimal one is 36–46 cm.
SPACE ABOVE THE HIPS. The distance from the seat to the lower edge of the drawstring is the vertical space for the hips when a person sits on this chair, pushed up to the table. Minimum - 15 cm.
ELBOW SPACE. Side space on the table for each seated. The minimum is 60 cm, but 75 cm is much better.
HAND DEPTH. Front space on the table for each seated. Less than 30 cm will be small, and more than 45 cm - too much.
CHAIR SPACE. The distance from the edge of the tabletop to the wall is sufficient to push the chair back when getting up from the table. The architects say that a minimum of 90 cm is needed, and 110 cm would be the best option.
Table with king belt
When you hear the word "table", don't you think of a flat panel with four legs? Don't you think of just such a table, as drawn here? Yes, this design is the most original of the original. In the simplest version, a table - a typical design - consists of only three types of parts: legs, drawers and a lid (tabletop). The legs and the tsarg belt form a strong, but nevertheless open support structure. Structurally, many tables are drawbar tables, although we rarely call them that. Much more often they are called according to their functional purpose or their location: dining, kitchen, bedside, desk. Scrolling through the book further, you will come across the original designs of various tables, and many of them will return to this "basic" table. Such a table, as a rule, can be found in the kitchen or dining room. Its massiveness gives the impression of strength. Although the legs are quite massive, the chiseled profile visually reduces their massiveness. In addition, the individual dimensions of the legs make them ideal for strong carpentry joints. Despite the simplicity of the design of the table with the tsarg belt, many of its variations are possible. The table can be round, square, oval, rectangular. Its legs can be square, chiseled, tapered or carved. Even the kings can influence the look of the table.
Design Options
For example, a round table with the same chiselled legs as the base table looks completely different. This excellent look is given to it by a square tsarg belt with a round lid. Despite the elegant cabriole legs of the table in the style of Queen Anne, the massive sides make it a work table. The cut-out drawers at the third table make a significant visual and practical difference, making the table appear lighter and taller and providing more room for the seater's hips.
Country style table
This table is called in different ways - a country-style table, a retro-style table, a bar table - and they represent it differently. Furniture researchers usually describe it as a simple, low, oblong table on a massive underframe with turned legs and prongs. Prolegs, especially as strong as in the figure, significantly increase the durability and rigidity of the structure. With intensive daily use, prongs can increase the life of the table by years. The terms "country" and "bar" are definitely associated with the XVII-XVIII centuries, when such tables were widely used in hotels, taverns and bars in rural areas and towns. The surviving examples of such tables do have massive legs - although they are badly worn out by many legs. The table shown here is equipped with one middle prong instead of two longitudinal ones, so that it is more convenient to sit at the table. However, many early tables had pro-legs around the perimeter. The design is uncomplicated. The drawers and prolegs are spiked into the legs with reinforcement with wedges, dowels, etc. The table cover is a wide panel “in the tip”.
Design Options
The easiest way to change the design of a table is to change the legs. Our "original" table has round legs - turned - and the form of turning can be changed endlessly. Just remember that you will need a flat, rectangular surface for the side-leg joints. At a country-style table, you can also change the legs - both in appearance,
and their configuration, as shown in the figure below.
Table with drawer belt and drawer
The name "table with a king belt" refers rather than to style, but to construction. This type of table is the base for kitchen, library, desks, etc. Even for a workbench. A drawer or two adds to the functionality of the table, as the tools that are used when using it can be stored in these drawers. In some cases, a small box is enough, in others, the largest possible one is required. There are only a couple of ways to include such a box in the design. The simplest approach is to simply cut a box opening in the drawer. For a relatively small box and a fairly massive drawer side, it is quite suitable. If the opening turns out to be so large that it creates a danger of destruction of the board, then it is better to replace the drawer with box bars. The bars can be rotated 90° so that their width matches the thickness of the leg. Studded joints provide rigidity. A design with two - supra-jaw and under-jaw - bars is preferable, since the top bar will prevent the legs from moving inward.
Design Options
Installing a drawer in a round table is quite possible. But if the tsar's belt has a square or rectangular shape, then one must be prepared that access to the inside of the box will be limited. If the drawer belt is rounded, then the front panel of the drawer should be made in such a way (for example, a layered-bent or block-glued construction) so that its shape matches the shape of the drawer side.
An alternative to a table with a leg at each corner is a table on one central leg. Its tabletop is attached to a central post mounted on low, flared legs. Here, the drawers are not structurally required, but some single-support tables have them. At first glance, a table without legs and a drawer side gives unlimited legroom. However, although it does have a lot of knee and hip room, its "creeping" legs usually get in the way of the feet of the seated person. This is the price of stability: the projection of the tabletop should not exceed the area of support by more than 15 cm. A little more - and you risk tipping the table, leaning on the edge. Critical to this design is the strength of the center post and its connection to the base or legs. The table shown here has an oval top and - in accordance with the major and minor axis of the oval - two pairs of legs of different lengths. The legs are connected to the racks tapering downwards, and the racks with the tabletop brackets are connected with double spikes into the eyes. These intermediate assemblies, in turn, are glued onto a square-core lath and form a central support that expands upwards.
The table on a support appeared in the 18th century as a small coffee table with a three-legged base. To make a dining table, carpenters combined two single-legged tables or placed an oblong tabletop on two three-legged supports. Modern models range from the simplest utilitarian to multi-rack. The structural advantage of multi-column supports is increased resistance to warping. Although the area of support may be noticeably smaller than the projection of the table top, a large table with this type of support can be quite stable due to the mass of the support.
Put a wide board on the goats - and you get a table. This is the ancestor of the trestle table, which is perhaps the very first type of table. Since ancient times, its form has improved significantly, but it remains an easy-to-make collapsible table. Its elementary form remains a panel or sheet of plywood on a free-standing trestle. And when the trestle stops being free standing, that's when the assembly becomes a table, because they have to be connected to each other, to the top, or both. In the table shown here, each half of the goat consists of a fairly wide stand, cut into the leg at the bottom, and at the top into the table top bracket. The wider the trestles, the better the table resists rocking from side to side. A long massive proleg is cut into the racks. The tabletop is fastened with screws to the goats, and the structure becomes one. Although there is enough legroom under the tabletop, do not forget about the leg so that, while sitting at the table, you do not get bumps on your shins. Also, the ends of the tabletop should protrude 35-45 cm beyond the goats to provide enough space for those sitting there. Many trestle tables are designed to be collapsible. Common ways of attaching folding table parts are shown on the next page.
Design Options
Thinking about the shape of the legs and legs of the goat is the easiest way to change the look of this table. Several examples are shown here. The original goats looked like saw goats, and the X-shape was quite popular in medieval Europe. The Pennsylvania Germans and other Germanic settlers brought this form to America, and it is still commonly found at picnic tables. Today, the most common is the H-shape. Shakers (sectarians-shakers), who made many tables on the goats, usually used graceful legs "with a high rise"
The familiar dining table can be extended with an additional cover board. Then an ordinary table for a family can be enlarged to receive guests. At first glance, it may not be noticeable that this is a standard table with a drawstring belt, cut into two parts and reconnected using special skids. The skids can be bought ready-made or made together with the table. Each cloth of the table top must be at least 60 cm - the optimal place for one seated person.
Design Options
The design of the extendable table can vary, as usual, by changing the legs and side. The shape of the drawer side and the tabletop has practically no effect on the overall design. If we are talking about a table with drawers, then they work with the sliding version as usual. As the extension limits increase, it may be necessary to add an additional leg to support the middle section. And do not forget about the importance of small details - for example, fastening the drawer side to the tabletop
Extendable table on one leg
A table on one support is the basic form of a table that has some advantages over a table with a drawstring belt. If you need a folding table, don't forget to consider this shape as well. It is quite possible to make such a table both sliding and folding, and a folding cover that will expand it. The most common option is a sliding lid with an insert section. As shown on the next page, the cover is divided in two and its halves are connected by special sliding skids. Thus, these two cover sheets can be moved apart and an additional board can be inserted between them. What to do with the support is the key question for the master. For the table to be stable, the size of the lid and the area of support must be close. In the example shown, the support is vertically divided into two parts, each of which is fastened to a respective lid web. When the lid is pulled apart, the support also separates.
Design Options
The basic form has a support that separates when the table is extended. This is not the only option. If a relatively small, say, 30-40 cm, expansion is acceptable, then an extendable table can also be made on a non-dividing support. Another option is to make a table on two supports. A table with a support for each sliding half can expand by 90–120 cm.
When choosing one of the types of folding tables, one of the most interesting designs is the system with sliding sections. It is simple to manufacture and use. There is nothing out of the ordinary about the basic structure of the table. The only difference from the usual underframe made of drawers and legs is the presence of slots in the end drawers. The difference lies on top of the drawstrings and legs. Instead of attaching the table top to the drawstring belt, its side sections, attached to long tapering runners, are stacked on top of the drawer legs assembly. The runners correspond to the slots in the sides. The existing central board separating the side sections is fixed with screws on the sides. The table top is laid on top of the central board and side sections, but is not fixed tightly. When unfolding the table, the side section simply slides out from under the lid. The skids have stops to prevent the section from being extended too far. When pulled out, the lid will tilt a little at first, but when fully unfolded, it will be flush with the side section. Since the pull-out sections are part of the design, you won't have to search for them in the closets and storerooms when you need to lay out the table before the guests arrive. You simply slide out a section or two - even if the table is already set.
Design Options
The drawer system can be combined with any type of table support provided that the drawer side is available. Thus, a trestle table or a two-leg table (as in the figure on the right), equipped with drawers, can have retractable sections to increase the number of seats. However, the system is not well suited for countertops with non-rectilinear shapes. When folded, the side section retracts under the cover and its edges remain (or should remain) visible. If the shape is different from the shape of the lid, then the table will probably look rather odd when folded. For example, a semi-circular side section under a square or rectangular lid will create a gap between the lid and the sides.
Two-leg table with sliding
sections
A table with a sliding folding lid (table top) is relatively rare. Despite the low prevalence, this is an excellent system. The table has one additional section - a duplicate of the "main" cover, this section is connected to the cover using hinges and, when folded, lies on the main section (lid). To unfold the table, the “double” tabletop is moved to its extreme position (up to half of the underframe), and then the additional section leans back onto the underframe. The upper edges of the tsarg should be covered with felt or felt to facilitate the sliding of the lid. It is not difficult to make a sliding mechanism. Each skid has a ridge that fits into a groove in its guide. The disadvantage is that during periods of high humidity, the ridges can stick in the grooves. The basic version is usually configured as a side table. In the unfolded state, the edges of the tabletop are quite far from the base, which creates enough space under the table for those seated. The U-shape of the legs will provide enough legroom for those sitting at the ends of the table.
Design Options
When folded, this table looks like a somewhat odd dining table. To limit the overhang of the tabletop over the underframe (ensuring stability), the size of the base part should approach the size of the folded tabletop. Therefore, a folding tabletop should be used on a type of table that does not look odd if the tabletop has a small overhang. Good uses for this include a side table (as a base), a side table (shown here) and other special purpose tables and tables. These tables, when folded, can be placed close to the wall. Folding covers are usually used in traditional card tables, but without a sliding mechanism. Nevertheless, the sliding mechanism is suitable here as well.
A table with a folding board (or boards) is practically the “generic” name for all tables in which sections of the table top are connected by hinges. It is a common sight and has been present throughout American history. In any furniture style, from the style of the times of William and Mary to the modern one, you will find a table with a folding board. In this table, folding boards are part of the design. When not in use, they can be lowered to a vertical position, saving room space. There are many ways to keep the flaps in the raised position. The example shown here uses pull-out holders - you lift the board and pull out the support brackets from under it (much like a drawer). For some other support systems, see a table with swivel frame supports, with swivel legs on a book table, and several card tables. The main thing to consider for this type of table is the width of the folding boards, which can be optimally supported by extendable or swivel/articulated arms. Make relatively narrow folding boards - say, no wider than 38 cm. For wider sections - see options with swivel frame supports or swivel legs. A long folding board, like the example shown here, will require more than one bracket. By the way, this example received an interesting name in the 20th century, which is applied to a relatively long utility table with hinged covers. This name, which can be translated as "suffering", creates in consciousness a picture of a large table laid out, crammed with food for hungry seasonal agricultural workers during the harvest season. Regardless of what we call it now, people who sat at such a table in the year 1840 or 1880 probably called it a folding table or folding table.
Design Options
While a basic dining table is quite long and relatively narrow, with a rectangular top with sharp corners, a drop-down table can come in almost any size, proportion, and shape. The table top (tabletop) can have folding boards of a rounded or slightly rounded shape. On a shortened or square base, you can install a round, square or oval tabletop. You can round the corners of the folding sections or make their outer edges curved.
Table-book - the Russian name for a table with swivel frame supports, which are hinged to the assembly of the tsarga-leg-leg. The support post is connected to the turntable by the upper and lower crossbars. The whole support can be rotated so that the raised folding section (board) can be placed on it. The swivel bearing became the forerunner of the swivel leg. It has many structural elements reflecting the state of carpentry in the 16th century when it appeared. But like any well-made frame, it is structurally rigid and makes an excellent support for a folding board. Although the first such tables usually had two frame supports (one for each folding board), there were often tables with one folding board and one swivel support, and it happened the other way around - there were several leviathans with 12 swivel supports. When folded, the tables were usually very narrow and save a lot of space. A large table with two swivel legs per flip board can be made to swivel both towards and away from each other. If they turn towards each other, then with the folding boards lowered, the support legs of the frames will be located next to the main legs, visually making them more massive. When rotated away from each other, the support legs will sit side by side, giving the impression of a table with six legs. The first tables were usually made in the Baroque style, with a complex chiseled profile of the legs. However, the example shown is completely modern.
Design Options
A significant advantage of the book table is the ability to support very large additional sections. A solid support under the flap makes the table very stable even with one section raised. Thus, it is difficult to make a very narrow table with wide folding boards. When folded, the table takes up very little space. Unfolded - has a huge tabletop
This table can rightly be called a table with folding boards, but the swivel leg makes it stand out from others like it. The swivel leg is a descendant of the frame swivel support (see page 158). If the swivel support is attached to the table frame, consisting of the drawer side, legs and proleg, then the swivel leg is attached only to the drawer side. The result is a lighter appearance. Rather, the size, rather than the knot of the swivel leg, is characteristic of this table. The tabletop diameter of only 107 cm will be quite comfortable for four people. The swivel leg is used in card tables with small folding tops. During the Queen Anne period, a smaller version of the table shown here was called the "breakfast table" and was used both for breakfast and for games and tea parties. Larger tables will likely need additional swivel legs for better support for flip boards. The swivel - actually a wooden hinge - makes the swivel leg workable. A sleeker version than shown here makes the connection look like a metal loop.
Design Options
The design of a swivel leg for a table with folding boards appeared in the first half of the 18th century. Although we chose a Queen Anne style table as our "basic" table, the swivel leg has been used in a variety of table styles. The profile of the stem will typically be the style indicator. Chippendale-style swivel-leg tables often have convertibles, but always with a claw-ball finish. Square shaped legs are also used in chippendale tables. During the federal
Hepplewhite tables were made with legs tapering downwards, as shown here, and Sheraton style tables were made with chiseled, often embossed, legs.
Folded out folding boards transform
rectangular table to square
The advantage of a table with a frame swivel base over a table with a swivel leg is the stability provided by the additional legs. When the folding boards are raised, they are supported by additional legs. A table with extendable legs also has this advantage over a table with swivel legs, but it also has one advantage over a table with frame swivel legs. Like a table with swivel legs, this table has an additional leg for each folding board. But only a narrow crossbar connects the leg to the table. These crossbars are placed in a holder of two guides installed between the longitudinal drawers, and are extended through cutouts in the drawers. The leg is attached to the crossbars. Raise the folding board, extend the leg and lower the board onto it. You have a leg under the flip board and still have four legs under the fixed table top. This structure can hold very wide folding boards.
Design Options
Here are two very different tables with retractable legs, each of which has excellent stability due to the extra leg (or legs) when unfolded. When the card table is folded up against the wall, the extra leg is not conspicuous. By unfolding the game table and extending the extra leg, you will get a support under each corner of the table top. Perfect. Extendable legs also make a great addition to a long table with folding boards. If you make two retractable legs for each board, then the table will not lose stability when someone leans too hard on it.
The table-chair owes its birth to medieval practicality. In the Middle Ages, dwellings were small and drafty. Any furniture was expensive, everything was done with hand tools. And if a piece of furniture could perform more than one function - well, so much the better. The table-chair is clearly universal. With the lid down, it's a table. With the lid up - the seat. And as with most universal things, its functionality is far from perfect. With the development of the furniture industry, the table-chair became more perfect in design and elegant in appearance. The item shown here has legs and armrests attached to the sides of the seat with spike-in-socket joints. The pronounced end of the shoe-shaped legs make the chair more stable, and the armrests more comfortable. The chair even has a drawer under the seat - more sophisticated storage than a box with a lid. The tabletop is fastened with a dovetail tie-in.
The interior of any apartment, house or cottage is absolutely impossible to imagine without such an important element as a table.
And although it is not a difficult task to choose a table of any size, shape, design and design solutions in a furniture salon, it is still much more interesting to make it yourself.
Firstly, it is much more economical, and secondly, you will not only enjoy the creation process, but are also guaranteed to achieve the desired result - the shape and dimensions that are ideal for your premises. Consider the process of hand-made production of solid wood.
First of all, you need to define your goals.
Advice. The choice of breed for the countertop will depend on what functions your table will perform, how durable it should be, and what characteristics of structure and color should have.
Pine, spruce, alder. The main advantage of these types of wood is their low cost. In addition, they have a uniform structure, and, accordingly, are very easy to process. However, their margin of safety is not very high.
Oak, beech. These are options with the most durable wood. If durability is your priority, then oak is the best choice.
It looks very nice in the section, and the oak tabletop will be very heavy. At the same time, the cost of the material is relatively high. Beech is also highly durable, it is somewhat cheaper than oak, but has almost no embossed pattern.
Ash. The structure is practically not inferior to oak, although it does not look so luxurious. Its main advantage is the variety of color palette.
birch, larch. Also representatives of solid wood. Processing them is somewhat more difficult, but moisture resistance and strength are at the highest level.
Drawings
Many people think that the presence of a drawing in the manufacture of the table is not at all mandatory. But still, in order to avoid discrepancies between the future finished product and the intended goals, it is better to spend some time and protect yourself. Building a drawing is necessary for at least two reasons:
- When you decide to make a table, you, of course, think in advance about what functions it will perform and where it will be placed. Dimensions and the shape of the table, of course, are determined based on the availability of free space. But besides this, you need to take into account such nuances as comfortable space under the table for legs, the distance from the chair to the wall, etc. In order to organically fit your table into the interior of the room and ensure its maximum functionality, you need to have a clear idea of its size. And in this matter, one cannot do without a drawing.
- In addition, although at first glance the table is not a very complicated structure, there is still a chance of making a mistake in the manufacture of any part. To prevent this, a drawing will come in handy - a visual reflection on paper of the table components with all sizes.
Advice. If you do not have a certain experience in drawing, you can always pick up a finished drawing on the Internet. In this case, you will only have to change some parameters, adjusting it to the functions of the table and interior conditions you need.
Tools
In order not to be distracted during work by the constant search for the necessary improvised means, the entire tool should be prepared and laid out in advance. Approximate list what you might need looks like this:
Manufacturing
Important. Before starting any carpentry work, it is necessary to prepare the wood: carefully sand and treat all surfaces with an antiseptic: solid wood tabletop, frame boards, table legs.
- Making a frame. The frame is a rectangular base that connects to the tabletop and serves to mount and stabilize the legs.
- We turn the tabletop over and measure a few centimeters horizontally and vertically from the corner of the tabletop deep into. We make the same marks on the other three corners of the countertop. The marks should be at the same distance from the corners;
- We draw connecting lines. The result should be a rectangle (or square, depending on the shape of the tabletop) inscribed in the center of the table;
- We cut four pieces of wood so that their dimensions exactly match the lines drawn on the underside of the countertop;
- We glue the frame to the tabletop and put the clamps. To strengthen the structure, in addition to gluing, the frame should be screwed.
- Making legs. To do this, we make four bars of the same length indicated in the drawing. We glue the legs to the frame and the tabletop so that there is no empty space left in the leg-frame and leg-tabletop joints. We leave it for a while to dry and fix the legs with self-tapping screws at an acute angle to the surface of the board.
- After completing the main work, we proceed to processing. It is necessary to grind by hand all sharp edges of the table top and legs. Then we apply varnish evenly over the entire structure. A clear or colored lacquer will not only protect the table from unwanted external influences such as moisture, but will also emphasize the natural pattern of the wood. It will look very impressive if you paint some parts of the table with paint.
Sometimes, in order to increase the durability of your product or give the table a brighter appearance, the surface varnished(or paint) again.
In this case, it should be remembered that the second layer of varnish or paint can be applied only after the previous layer has completely dried. You should not rush, it is better to wait a few extra hours, but be sure that you will not spoil the almost finished table.
- the first time after varnishing and painting, try to avoid moisture and direct sunlight on the surface;
- even after the varnish has completely dried, do not leave the table outside in the rain or at low temperatures;
- keep the surface clean, treat it in a timely manner with special cleaning agents, periodically polish it.
A photo
You can arrange the resulting result in the style of the following photos:
Useful video
A great example showing all the steps in the process can be viewed in the following video:
Conclusion
Based on the foregoing, we can conclude that making a wooden table with your own hands is not so difficult. Especially if we are leaning towards the option with a ready-made solid wood worktop, because. in this case, the "front of work" is significantly reduced.
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