As practice shows, do high-quality cut chipboard with a durable melamine coating is very difficult. Rough tools often leave nicks on cuts. You can no longer assemble a neat door or shelf with such defects. Sawing chipboard at home, usually occurs when repair work or making furniture.
How to cut chipboard without nicks and chips?
Special equipment
Of course the most the best option- use a special formatting machine. With it, you can get any cut. But for private needs you cannot buy such an instrument, but on manufacturing plant providing sawing services, such a procedure will cost good money. More cheap way- Circular Saw. There are even special saws for chipboard. But they also require the use of special tools. However, many in the arsenal should have milling machine, which will fix the rough cut with the cutter. If you have experience with such a machine, it will not be difficult to get a satisfactory appearance cut.
improvised tools
You can cut chipboard and a jigsaw, but it will be a rough cut. The edges may not turn out straight, but sinusoidal, and in the worst case, the edge will come out not perpendicular to the front surface.
During the cut, you must be prepared for the fact that the jigsaw file will begin to “walk” due to the bend. You need to cut with a margin of 4 mm, and then level the edge.
Sawing chipboard at home with a jigsaw reduces the formation of chips. When cutting, you need to increase the speed and reduce the feed by setting the swap to 0. Only sharp saws designed for special sawing of chipboard should be used. Only by following these rules you can achieve a good result. After cutting the butt, which will be in sight, you can earn some money with sandpaper. Additionally, before cutting, as already mentioned, you need to cut a line along which the cut will take place. But we do not file along this line, but near it - then the chips will not touch the limits you need. In the end, it remains only to finish the edges with sandpaper.
Indents from the contour can be up to 4 mm. Then these few millimeters are removed cylindrical cutter using a manual electric milling machine with a bearing. The bearing is guided along a long level fixed on the back of the sheet.
In addition, if the chips are in a non-working, inconspicuous area, they can be masked with a marker or felt-tip pen, matched to their color.
The most undesirable way to cut chipboard- a file (oddly enough, in old textbooks a lot of material is devoted to this method). It is possible with a planer, but preferably electric and with carbide knives. But here it must be borne in mind that the dust from under the planer will scatter throughout the room.
And the most comfortable way- by using manual router along the guide. The butt should be even and under 90 gr, there will be no chips, and when the vacuum cleaner is turned on, there will be almost no dust.
Masters recommend using a hacksaw for such a cut. If you have a saw with a fine tooth, then the procedure is as follows:
1) Draw a line of cut with a knife. Sharpen the saw before starting work. The knife should be driven with a little pressure so that the laminated top layer is notched.
2) Glue a tape with a sticky base along the intended cutting line. It will help keep the decorative layer from cracking. You can also use paper tape.
3) The tool should be held at a very sharp angle. In this case, the angle should not be higher than 30 degrees - this will reduce the likelihood of chips. In the process of cutting, it is necessary to slightly press on the saw. If the work is done with a power tool, such as a jigsaw, then you do not need to rush and press it
4) After finishing sawing, the cut can be cleaned with a file. But in many cases, this is not required, since the small teeth of the saw do not deform the laminate. If torn edges have formed, then delicate work with a rasp will bring the cut into the proper form. The grinding tool must be guided towards the center from the edge - this minimizes possible damage to the top layer.
5) A glued strip of veneer will give the final beauty to the cut.
Of course cutting chipboard at home does not imply professional quality and high speed. For those who are in a hurry, we can offer sawing chipboard with a grinder. A wood disc is used as a cutting element. A bar is attached to the chipboard on clamps so that the grinder is guided along it for an even cut. After cutting, possible chips are treated with the same grinder, only with a different nozzle - for grinding. But a more gentle option is to use sandpaper.
Today we will tell you what affects the quality of sawing, how to saw off chipboard evenly and cleanly, and also how you can saw with a tire and without a conventional guide. circular saw.
We will show using the example of a hand-held circular saw, but this does not affect the sawing techniques in any way, the difference is only in minor details. You can get a similar cut quality on a cheaper tool if you follow our advice.
What influences the quality of cutting chipboard?
AT this case we will saw chipboard, this is the most capricious material for sawing, because it has longitudinal and transverse layers, quite delicate and thin veneer. But on the other hand, he has a tough adhesive base, which will also interfere with us.
Saw disc. How to choose it?
When cutting chipboard, the saw blade must simultaneously cut cleanly and be resistant, because the glue is very close to glass in its properties and quickly dulls the tool itself. Therefore, in the process of sawing chipboard, you need to choose good enough discs to cut them without losing quality for a long time.
What is the difficulty of sawing with a circular saw with discs?
If we look at the cut of the workpiece, we will see that it is full of scuffs, because it is almost impossible to keep the saw straight in the cut “on the hands”.
On the saw blade there is a difference in height between the body of the saw itself and the sawing part - the tooth. Due to this distance, the disc has the ability to direct its position in the cut. Accordingly, as soon as it changes its geometry, the rear teeth begin to hit the chipboard blank and leave traces on it.
It is important to place the workpiece front part way down. Why?
The disk rotates from bottom to top, it cuts the pile of the workpiece up to the base. Thus, from below, on the front side, we always have a clean surface. Problems start to form at the top where the teeth come out of the workpiece. This is how explosions, chips, pile are obtained.
How can they be minimized or avoided altogether? There are several simple tricks and we will talk about them now.
Reception 1. Cutting along the guide
We install a guide (tire) on the workpiece, set the sawing depth and perform a cut. As you can see for yourself, even outside there are no chips, no explosions in our workpiece from chipboard. He himself drank even without signs of scuffing or side waves. Why such difference?
What is the merit of a leader?
When we saw with a disc, we inevitably move the saw, we get the so-called "movement of the iron." That is, when we move our hand, we move the saw all the time to the right, to the left. The guide, which has a hard edge, avoids this.
Accordingly, when we guide the saw along the guide, it does not move and the saw blade itself runs smoothly without changing its position. It turns out an ideal line parallel to the guide.
What to do if there is no manual circular saw and guide?
You need to make your own guide. We find a regular profile, you can take the rule, any flat rail, the main thing is that its geometry is even.
We measure the distance from the saw blade to the edge of your chipboard blank. We fasten the guide to the workpiece with any clamp and start cutting.
The main thing in the process is to constantly press the saw against the guide. That is, your hand should always lead the saw towards the homemade tire.
After cutting, you will get an almost perfect cut, the cut line is barely visible. We made a very high quality cut, the cut itself is clean, no side marks are visible on it. Except for a small pile on the back of the workpiece.
Where did this pile come from, because we worked with a guide (tire)?
A commercially available cutting bar has a special plastic protective tape. This tape does not allow the pile to rise and the saw cuts it. In this case, we did not have this tape, so we got this pile on the surface.
What to do with the pile in this case?
There are two options:
1. Take the usual masking tape. It is glued to the place of cut, marking is made on it and sawn together with masking tape. The adhesive tape holds the ingrown in place and when we cut it, we get everything clean.
2. Just drive the saw blade more slowly. That is, if you do the same with a slower feed, then there will be much less chips.
Reception 2. "Reverse cut".
The first pass is performed in an unusual manner - in reverse. That is, the circular saw rotates in the course of feeding the workpiece. We set the minimum cutting depth, turn on the saw and move not forward, but backward.
If you have a regular saw, then just fix the saw with a minimum reach for the base. The meaning of the first pass is that the blade, moving along the guide, only clings to our workpiece. We need a small groove on the chipboard.
Having made the first - undercut cut, you will make sure that there are no chips with such a feed (back). The surface is perfect!
Now we will set the saw to full depth and cut the workpiece along this groove with a regular cut - feed forward. We will get two cuts for one workpiece. No wave cuts, no arson, nothing - perfect quality!
Video - how to saw off material (chipboard, plywood) without chips
Any home craftsman sooner or later faces the need to cut chipboard. It can be making furniture with your own hands or wall cladding. MDF panels or chipboard. As you know, cutting chipboard is not difficult, but making the cut even and without chips is not an easy task.
Do it yourself or order?
Custom cut will be smoother
High-quality sawing of chipboard is difficult to do manually due to the large size of the sheets. The dimensions of a standard plate are 2440 × 1200, and this is not the limit. However, if you often work with chipboard or MDF, it makes sense to get an expensive tool and work for your own pleasure. If you only need to cut a few sheets, you can go two ways:
- Cut the slabs yourself using the available hand tools;
- Order cutting chipboard in a specialized workshop.
What to choose is up to you, and we will consider each of these options.
Cutting panels at home
Sawing by hand chipboard sheet or chipboard is quite real. True, in this case, you are unlikely to be able to avoid the appearance of chips and burrs, but you can try to reduce their number and size.
There are several rules that should be followed when cutting chipboard panels:
- cutting sheets must be done on a flat, solid surface. For sawing large panels, two large tables can be adapted (their height must be the same!);
- in order to prevent the appearance of chips, stick adhesive tape or a good masking tape along the cut line, which will hold the edges of the laminated layer;
- for cutting with hand saw pick up a canvas with a grinding tooth. The saw teeth should be well sharpened. You need to drive the saw with a little pressure, at an acute angle to the surface, constantly monitoring its position;
- to cut chipboard and chipboard with a jigsaw, the cut line should be scratched or even cut. It is best to use sharp knife to cut through a durable layer of laminate;
- install a file with a small back tooth;
- select the maximum speed of the jigsaw, turn off the "pendulum";
- fix a flat rail along the saw line and guide the jigsaw strictly along it;
- the jigsaw should be firmly pressed against the sawn surface.
All these recommendations help to properly cut and cut chipboard, but chips, nevertheless, cannot be completely avoided. Therefore, if it is so important to get a perfectly smooth, even cut line, without chips and saw marks, you should contact specialized workshops, where any figure will be cut out of a chipboard sheet for a moderate fee.
Accuracy and quality
Accurate cutting is the key to success
Panel saws for sawing chipboard and chipboard have high quality cut, which allows to reduce subsequent costs for processing cuts (grinding, removing chips and burrs, and so on). That is why on such machines it is possible to cut any complexity and configuration, which means almost inexhaustible possibilities in the production of furniture. Fantasy children's furniture, comfortable tabletops computer tables, figured through carved decorations in the doors kitchen facades– all this is possible with the use of machines.
There are two types of panel cutting machines:
- vertical, which is a strong rigid vibration-resistant welded frame (frame), installed vertically with a back deflection of 50 °, with guides located above and below, along which the saw beam moves. It is a bracket for the saw unit, which moves up and down along the beam, and also rotates 90°, which allows you to make both vertical and horizontal cuts. The cutting precision is amazing. For sawing laminated chipboard, as well as hard, corrugated or porous boards, a special scoring unit is used. The rotational speed of the saw reaches 15 thousand revolutions per minute;
- horizontal, consisting of a table for a plate, a carriage for moving the saw along the saw mechanism and the actual saw mechanism, consisting of one or two cutting units. The cutting units themselves are equipped with a main and scoring saw. The principle of operation is simple: the main saw deeply cuts through the chipboard, and the scoring saw accurately and clearly cuts the bottom edge (veneer or laminated surface). The saw unit can also be tilted up to 45°.
The miter saw is a "domesticated" and greatly reduced copy of a horizontal machine. It will not be possible to cut a wide sheet of chipboard or chipboard on it, but with small details she'll be fine.
Sawing other types of panels
Cutting MDF is different from cutting chipboard panels. high density material quickly blunts the teeth of the saw, so it often has to be sharpened or completely changed. It is possible to cut untreated MDF on a conventional machine, but laminated board requires a machine with an additional bottom saw. This is especially important when sawing boards with a double-sided finish.
Cutting fiberboard can be done at home using an electric or manual jigsaw. Of course, the file must be sharp, with a fine tooth, it is necessary to set the maximum speed on the jigsaw. Install the fiberboard horizontally on a support that should not interfere with sawing (between two tables or chairs, for example), secure, if necessary, with clamps.
The electric jigsaw should be held with both hands, pressing firmly against the surface, moving smoothly, strictly along the marking line, without jerking and pressing. The same applies to working with a manual jigsaw.
In the case when you need to cut a lot of sheets of material, it is more convenient to contact a specialized company. This will save you time and effort.
Video on cutting chipboard with a circular saw
Cutting chipboard beautifully and without chips is not always easy. See how to do it right:
When you look at the price tags of furniture made from chipboard in a store, you are amazed at how expensive it is! But chipboard is one of the most available materials for the design of furniture with their own hands. Fortunately, all the necessary accessories are now on sale. And furniture projects, both on the Internet and in “paper” magazines, can now be found for every taste. So what's the problem? The main problem is to carefully cut the chipboard.
Of the household tools, the most suitable for cutting chipboard is a hand-held circular saw. But even when cutting chipboard with its help, a number of problems arise: 1) it is very difficult to follow a strictly straight line, the saw wags; 2) chips are formed.
Are there any ways to solve these problems? There is. It is about them that we will tell today. By the way, all these tricks apply to cutting plywood.
Tip 1: Cut chipboard on the floor with full support
Cutting with full support means that when you bring the saw to the end, the chipboard sheet being cut does not immediately fall off.
If you want a very even and crisp cut, chipboard is better just cut on the floor. So you will 100% get a solid, stable foundation. The chipboard won't move even if you climb on top of it to finish the cut. You will also be sure that the cut piece will not fall off, split or fall.
Place 5 x 10 cm blocks under the chipboard sheet perpendicular to the direction of the cut. The bars will have to be sacrificed, as the saw will go through them. The more stable your chipboard sheet lies, the neater the cut will be.
Tip 2: Adjust the depth of cut
The correct depth of cut affects the quality of the cut.
Adjust the depth so that no more than half a tooth of the disc protrudes beyond the bottom edge of the chipboard or plywood (see photo above). This may not seem important to you, but believe me, the depth of cut greatly affects the quality of the cut. With this setting, the tooth cuts the material instead of chopping it, and the saw is also stabilized so that it vibrates less during the cutting process. Both of these factors make saw marks on the chipboard cut less noticeable.
Position the saw along the edge of the chipboard, raise the guide and look closely to set correct depth cutting. By the way, at the same time it is good to check the saw blade for damage, because a saw with bad teeth will make a rough cut. Another point: the saw is designed so that its stroke goes up, so chips are most often formed on the surface of the chipboard that faces up, and the cut from the side of the surface looking down is cleaner. Therefore, when cutting chipboard, have a good, face down.
Tip 3: For rip cuts, use a hard, long, straight object as a guide
As a guide for making an even straight cut, it is convenient to use a narrow long piece of chipboard, 16mm thick and about 30cm wide, which was cut professionally in a specialized workshop. All you need is to tighten its ends with a clamp.
The main difficulty is to position it in the right place for an accurate cut. To do this, you need to measure the distance from the edge of the saw support platform to the blade (see photo below).
Add this value to the width of your cut, make marks on the chipboard at both edges and lay the guide board. You also need to factor in the thickness of the saw blade in your measurements.
It is usually best to have a metal base plate circular saw rested against the edge of the guide, so maximum stability of the saw is achieved during cutting.
Tip 4: Check the guide before making the cut
This is, so to speak, fine tuning. Make a mark with a pencil - a line 5 cm long, thus determining the width of the part to be cut. Then start the saw, press the saw support platform against the guide and score the chipboard. Make sure that the saw blade begins to rotate in the air before it touches the sheet being cut, otherwise the edge of the sheet may split. Now measure the distance from the edge of the sheet to the notch to make sure that you did everything and calculated correctly. It is better, as they say, to measure seven times ...
Tip 5: Cut at a constant speed without stopping
Cut without stopping and maintain a constant speed. If you stop, there will be a mark on the chipboard or plywood.
Cutting speed depends on many factors, including the type of saw blade and the sharpness of the blade, as well as the material you are cutting. In general, the sharp disk passes through the chipboard sheet with little resistance, as if it were melting the wood. If you feel like you have to force and push the saw, either you are sawing too fast or the blade is dull. Too fast cutting tears the fibers of the chipboard and leaves visible marks on the cut. Too slow can cause the disc to overheat and ignite the wood.
Then you will get both marks and a burnt mark on the cut. That's why it's best to cut on the floor when you're making a long cut. You can crawl on your knees right on the chipboard, following the movement of the saw, without the need to reach or bend.
Just calculate in advance whether the length of the electrical cable is enough for you.
Tip 6: Get a CD large quantity teeth
The more teeth on the disc, the sharper the cut will be. And, of course, the disc must be sharp.
In principle, all the discs from the picture above are able to make a good cut on chipboard and plywood. As we wrote above, the more teeth, the better the cut. However, the disadvantage of the 140 tooth disc is that it dulls faster than the other three types. Especially if you are cutting chipboard. Take a disc with 40 or 56 teeth. It's better to keep another one in reserve. A 56-tooth blade is commonly used for cutting.
Tip 7: cross section best done with duct tape
The cross cut is perpendicular to the grain of the plywood, and even the sharpest blade easily leaves behind chips. This is a big problem, the best solution which, buy a disc for cutting laminate, which we wrote about above. However, you can perform this task using other disks. To do this, stick on both sides of the cut line adhesive tape. It will prevent the formation of chips.
You need to remove it carefully, pull it in the direction perpendicular to the cut (see photo below) so as not to damage the chipboard laminating coating.
And one last piece of advice. If you need to cut expensive material from the front side, cover the saw platform with duct tape so that it does not leave scratches on the surface of the sheet.
Chipboard is a chipboard, a common material. At present, it is widely used in the production of furniture, office and cabinet furniture, wardrobes, partitions, countertops, etc.
The main advantages of this material: affordability, ease of use, good thermal insulation properties, high strength, homogeneity of the material (no voids, cracks) Thanks to special additives, it becomes resistant to moisture, open fire, fungi.
Chipboard can be sawn, planed, milled, hammered nails or screws into it, drilled, cut. From it you can make various parts of almost any shape. Application possible different ways: laminate, paint, veneer, plastic or paper. The material is mainly used indoors. It is not suitable for outdoor work, after all, it is a tree. Chipboard covers walls, decorates residential and industrial premises. But with all the pluses, there is one problem - chips that occur when cutting. Here we will open how to avoid this problem and share some tips.
Preparation for work
Terms
It must be remembered that for quality work several conditions must be met.
- Install the hob correctly. The surface must be flat, stable, without drops. The chipboard plate must be fixed so that it does not “move out” during operation.
- The tool must be correct.
- It is necessary to saw the chipboard board only with a saw with fine teeth (this is important for coated boards, since a saw with fine teeth does not crumble the material).
- It is best to stick masking tape on the cutting line.
- You must strictly follow safety precautions.
Compliance with all the above conditions will give a guarantee of obtaining good results from the work done.
Wizard's advice
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