The arrangement of the sewer system requires the most scrupulous attitude to all stages of the process, including depth, slope, and reliability of connections. Each of these factors has a great influence on the quality of the entire system. Negligence is unacceptable here, if there is no self-confidence, it is better to turn to professionals.

Laying depth of the sewer system

Modern sewer systems significantly improve the standard of living in a private house. If in previous years a toilet on the street was perceived as an unpleasant necessity, inseparable from a private house, today it is a sign of laziness of the owners or their extremely low income. Moreover, in the first case, you can get out of the situation by hiring professionals who will perform absolutely all the work.

The depth of the pipeline depends on the depth of the septic tank.

Advice! The pipe laid between the building and the septic tank must be straight. Knees, turns will provoke the appearance of blockages.

Before arranging the sewer system, you should find out what is the average freezing depth in your area. Pipes need to be laid a little lower than these figures. Usually, the depth at which sewer pipes are located in a private house in the south is more than 50 cm. In the central part of the country, where the climate is harsher, the depth of sewerage in a private house is at least 70 cm. These figures are especially significant if sewer pipes are located under the platforms or under the paths, which are freed from snow in winter.

Features of laying sewer pipes

Laying sewer pipes must be carried out in accordance with the following rules:

pipes of the required diameter must be used;
it is necessary to observe the standard slope rate (about 0.03 m per 1 linear meter of pipe);
it is permissible to use pipes from different materials, but in one pipeline the pipes must match in material.

The depth of the pipeline can be determined based on the following points:

the nature of the site (its relief, soil features);
the exit point of the sewer pipe from the house.

The angle of inclination is needed so that the wastewater flows by gravity, in this case it is not necessary to install a pump, excess dirt will not accumulate inside the pipe, which can cause blockages. For the same purpose, the outer part of the system is performed without turns. Here, indoors, the sewerage laying scheme in a private house allows pipe turns, this will not become a serious obstacle to the functionality of the system. If you allow the outer part of the sewer system to turn, then you will definitely have to tear off these pipes,. Consequently, neglect of these rules can create very serious problems that are not always really quickly solved.

Advice! If it is impossible to lay a sewer pipe without turns, a well must be made at the turn point, into which it will always be possible to penetrate and eliminate the blockage in this area. This technique allows you to lay a sewer pipeline in any area.

Why is laying depth important?

The main reason for the need for too careful attention to the depth of pipe laying is the possibility of freezing. If this happens in the middle of winter, the residents of the house will be left without the ability to use the sewer until warm days, when the icing melts. Even minimal ice buildup inside the pipes will lead to blockages and a decrease or complete cessation of patency. This is a natural result of the narrowing of the lumen of the pipe. Wells contribute to getting rid of emerging blockages at the places where pipes turn in the external system.

Such a convenient device allows you to control the operation of the sewage system, in time to eliminate emerging problems. It is not very difficult to make it, but it brings a lot of comfort to the operation process.

Accounting for the depth of soil freezing is a fundamental requirement. In order not to spend money on arranging deeper trenches than necessary, you need to have a clear idea of the depth of soil freezing in a given area. Below is a table to help guide you in this matter.

How to properly equip thermal insulation?

In cold regions, it is recommended to supplement the sewer pipeline with thermal insulation. This technique allows you to extend the service life, eliminate the possibility of freezing at very low temperatures. Most often, polyurethane foam is taken for this purpose. If the pipe is wrapped with polyurethane foam, and a polyethylene sheath is made on top, the pipe will not be afraid of frost.

If pipes are laid below the possible freezing point, then the pipes will never freeze. In this case, additional protection is made in case of extreme cold. When performing thermal insulation, special attention is paid to joints and turning points. It is these zones that tolerate the effects of cold quite poorly. So warming the turning points is a must.

In Europe, a more technologically advanced method is used. An electric cable is launched near the pipeline; if necessary, it acts as a heater for the pipe. For many residents of our country, this method is too expensive, because paying for energy is not the smallest item of expenditure. Therefore, it is necessary to monitor the depth of pipe laying. In the central regions, it is better to choose a depth of 1m. And in the northern regions, it is desirable to dig deeper trenches and carry out high-quality thermal insulation. To do this, you can either fiberglass. If the pipes are located above the ground, they are also insulated with similar materials. Since they can fill with water, .

Video - Installation of external sewerage and insulation

The interior of the sewer system of a private house

For uninterrupted operation of the sewer, the requirements for the diameter of the pipes must be observed:

toilet, shower, bath, pool - 10 - 11 cm;
sink - 5 cm;
riser - 10 - 11 cm.

Video - Proper installation of sewer pipes

The external part of the sewer system of a private house

The main requirement is to ensure proper bias. The only correct drain is gravity. Too low a speed will cause blockages. Too fast movement of effluents - to accelerate the destruction of pipes.

The sewerage laying scheme in a private house includes a characteristic of the features of the pipe exit from the room. The rules for removing a pipe from a house depend on the type of foundation. With a strip foundation, the output is arranged on the side. With slab - the pipe is laid from top to bottom, for this a pipe section and a 45 ° elbow are used. To equip the sewer, a pipe-sleeve is laid in the foundation in advance, through which the main pipeline is then removed. Such a base is needed to protect the pipeline from excessive pressure and potential destruction.

In the photo - The standard depth of laying the sewer pipe.

In order not to be mistaken in the depth of laying the pipe, you need to find out how things are with the neighbors who have already equipped their own drain. If they have problems with pipe freezing, you need to dig your pipe deeper. No matter how deep the pipe lies, in any case, a slope is needed. Usually they make 2 - 3 cm per linear meter.

First, you should make a detailed layout of the piping inside the house. This will reduce time and financial costs by providing all the best options.
Pipes are carried out towards the riser or to the septic tank, sharp corners are excluded.
The riser on each floor must be equipped with a tee designed to service the sewer system for quick cleaning.

In individual construction, sewerage is a complex set of engineering equipment designed for efficient and safe disposal of wastewater.

Its main purpose is to collect wastewater into a single highway and transport it for disposal.

But it is the high-quality preparation and arrangement of the sewerage system that largely determines the comfort in the house.

All pipes used in sewer systems are divided according to the material of manufacture, the length of a single element and diameter. The most widely used pipes are made from the following materials.

Cast iron

Despite the fact that cast iron pipes have almost left the building materials market, if necessary, they can still be ordered today. Their main advantage is high mechanical strength., allowing you to lay shallow sewer lines even under the road.

However, a big the strength of cast iron is very unfortunately combined with high brittleness. At the same time, cast-iron drains silt up very quickly, require regular cleaning and are of considerable cost.

PVC (polyvinyl chloride)

Differs in low cost and acceptable operational characteristics. The main disadvantage of PVC is its high hardness. As a result, pipelines made of this material resonate very strongly and make noise when waste water passes through them.

With the strength of the material also leaves much to be desired. It is possible to lay PVC sewerage only in highly compacted soil or inside a protective box.

Polyethylene

Pipes made of this material are distinguished by such qualities as:

elasticity, due to which the polyethylene sewer, even after complete freezing, returns to its original geometry and can be further operated;
insensitivity to chemical reagents;
the possibility of laying in moving soils.

Main disadvantages:

softens at 80 degrees, what can lead to pipe deformation;
great wear during the passage of abrasive particles.

Therefore, for sewerage systems, the option of pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene is more suitable. This material is more durable and able to withstand high temperatures without deformation and destruction.

Polypropylene

For sewerage in a private house, polypropylene is of the greatest interest. It has a lot of advantages:

acceptable cost;
excellent wear resistance, allowing you not to worry when solid abrasive particles enter the sewer;
softens only at 140 degrees x, allowing you to drain even boiling water into the sewer for as long as you like;
resistant to chemicals. Only large volumes of concentrated acid can damage polypropylene pipes.

At the same time, with the external laying of polypropylene sewage, it should be well insulated. At temperatures below -5 degrees, the pipe will lose elasticity and may crack.

The diameter of the pipe in a private house depends on the purpose of the section of the highway:

40 or 50 mm for washbasin, kitchen sink, bathtub and other sanitary ware;
110 mm for the toilet, risers and mains.

The increased diameter of the pipe for connecting the toilet is necessary not only to simplify the descent of fecal masses. When the tank is completely drained through a narrow pipe, a vacuum effect may occur, which is fraught with disruption of the operation of all siphons in the system.

sewerage scheme

A sewerage scheme should be drawn up taking into account such factors, how:

the expected volume of wastewater;
soil characteristics;
climatic features of the area (seasonal temperature changes, rainfall).

The system should consist of three main elements:

internal sewer network;
external highway;
septic tank (cesspool).

Several rules apply to the calculation of sewer systems.

When distributing sewer pipes, it is necessary to minimize the number of interchanges, joints and connections.
If the house has several floors, then rooms with plumbing fixtures should be located one above the other. This will allow the use of common risers.
The kitchen and bathroom are optimally located in adjacent rooms as close as possible to the sewer.

The diagram should show the exact location and characteristics of the following elements:

sewer pipes with an indication of the material, length and diameter;
turning points, branches and inspection hatches;
plumbing appliances;
risers and collectors;
branch line b;
septic tank.

As a result, the scheme of the sewer system should include the full amount of information necessary for its installation.

Device

To install a septic tank on the site, preparation of a pit will be required. Its dimensions will be determined by the dimensions of the selected septic tank model and the characteristics of the soil. If the soil is very mobile, then the size of the pit should be increased by 25-40 cm. for each dimension.

This stock will allow pouring a concrete box for mechanical protection of the septic tank. The depth of the pit should be calculated so that the neck of the installed septic tank is flush with the ground level.

The depth of the trench under the sewer line should be less than 70-80 cm. This will keep it from freezing. In this case, the terrain should be taken into account. If the house is located much higher than the septic tank, then the trench near the foundation should be deeper. The minimum distance to the foundation of the building is 5 m.

The main pipe should be laid at a slight angle towards the septic tank. For this, the optimal increase in the depth of the trench should be about 3 mm per 1 m. Such a slope will ensure the unhindered passage of drains. With a smaller slope, there are congestion.

Exceeding the specified slope can cause water to drain too quickly into the septic tank, not having time to take fecal matter with it. This is also fraught with congestion.

To make it easier to control the depth of the trench, it is worth preparing a wooden beam with divisions in advance. Divisions are applied for certain distances from the foundation. For example, at two meters from the house, the depth should be 800, at four - 806, etc.

As you move away from home, the depth should always increase.. Its reduction in any area is unacceptable. Even a small "hump" will lead not only to difficulty in flow, but also to the appearance of an air lock, which will further worsen the situation.

Turns of the highway can also impede the flow. As far as possible, they should be avoided. If you can’t do without a bend, you should organize a turn of the maximum possible radius. At the turning point, it is desirable to arrange a revision well.

Particular attention should be paid to the depth of the sewer if it passes under a car park or road. In this case, it should be increased by several tens of centimeters.

To prevent the pipe from sinking into the ground, the bottom of the trench must be sealed with a sand cushion. The thickness of the pillow is 10-15 cm.

For medium and cold climatic zones, the sewer line must be insulated. As a heater, polyurethane foam or expanded polystyrene sheets with a shielding layer of foil can be used.

Particularly careful insulation is required for hatches in revision wells and collectors. In a fairly mild climate, insulation should be performed only for the upper part of the pipe.

Elements of the internal sewer network must be reduced to a common riser that acts as a collector. The optimal place for laying horizontal pipe sections is in the floor screed. In this case, it is desirable to give the pipe a slight slope.

The use of 90 degree elbows in sewer systems is not recommended. Pipe turns are best organized using several bends at 30 or 45 degrees.

Ventilation

Efficient ventilation for the sewerage system in a private house is necessary for several reasons.

This will allow the septic tank to function normally. During the decomposition of wastewater, gases are released, the excess of which can stop this process. Ventilation will also contribute to gas removal.
If the system is maintained at atmospheric pressure, then improve her performance. Without ventilation, water hammer and the appearance of vacuum zones are possible.
Ventilated sewer can last longer e than its hermetic version.

The easiest way to organize ventilation is to install a fan pipe, which is a vertical continuation of the riser. The upper cut of the fan pipe is displayed above the roof level at a distance of at least 70 cm. It is impossible to combine general ventilation in the house with a fan pipe.

Prices for materials and installation

Prices for materials for sewerage systems depend on their material of manufacture and linear dimensions. Roughly they will be as follows:

PPR pipe for internal sewerage with a diameter of 110 mm, length 1 m - 830 rubles;
the same with a diameter of 50 mm - 720 rubles;
revision 50 mm - 150 rubles;
plug 50 mm - 10 rubles;
toilet connection unit 110 × 87 - 200 rubles;
PVC pipe for external sewerage 5 m long - 1200 rubles;
300 l septic tank (Ecoprom Rostok Mini) - 37,000 rubles.

The total cost of the system will depend on the number and remoteness of plumbing devices, as well as on the distance to the septic tank.

If it is planned to involve third-party workers for the sewerage device, then the prices will be something like this:

installation of internal sewerage - 175-620 rubles. for 1 linear meter;
plumbing connection - from 200 rubles;
installation of an external line 100 mm - 200-350 rubles. for 1 r.m.

When doing the work on your own, the price of installation will only be the time spent.

Laying sewerage is an important stage in the construction of a private house. If there is no public sewerage, then in order to equip a completely autonomous drainage system, it is necessary to lay a network that delivers wastewater from sanitary and household appliances to a collection well. Installing a sewer for a private house is not a quick matter, but serious difficulties should not arise when doing the work yourself. The help of specialists may be required only in the most difficult sections of the pipeline.

The drainage system of a private house consists of internal and external sewage and a prefabricated well. In cottages with more than two floors with their own bathrooms, the sewer network is additionally equipped with a fan pipe.

Water supply and sanitation systems are usually designed and installed at the same time, since the same plumbing and household equipment is connected to them.

The procedure for laying a sewer network:

Prepare a pipeline project, taking into account all the devices connected to it, a slope of 2-3 cm per linear meter, and calculate the amount of building materials needed.
Purchase pipes, fittings and fittings.
Cut pipes into lengths according to the project.
Carry out internal wiring and bring the sewer pipe outside.
Install fan pipe.
Install outdoor sewer.
Arrange a prefabricated well and connect a pipeline to it.

Internal wiring

Intra-house sewerage is collected in such a way that its lowest point is the place where the pipeline exits to the outside. In order not to be mistaken with the angle of inclination, you can start the assembly from this point.

If there is a project, the connection order is unimportant, but you must strictly follow the rules for performing internal wiring:

Each device and functional section of the pipeline requires a pipe of the appropriate diameter: for the riser and toilet - 11 cm, for showers, bathtubs, kitchen sinks - 5 cm, for everything else 3.2 cm is enough, but if several devices are connected to one pipe at the same time , its diameter must be at least 7.5 cm.
Since wastewater flows through the pipes by gravity, a pipeline slope of 2-3 cm per linear meter is required.
The connection of pipes must be tight and not interfere with the free flow of liquid: the pipes are connected along the flow, there should be no roughness and burrs at the junction.
Right angles should be avoided, as they are the most likely to form blockages. To perform a turn, it is better to use several knees with smaller angles.
It is necessary to prevent back suction from the sewer and the penetration of an unpleasant odor into the house. To do this, a siphon or an S-shaped bent pipe is installed on the pipe of each plumbing fixture, which acts as a water seal.
If the house has several floors and each of them has plumbing, a common riser should be equipped.
Toilets are installed closer to other household and plumbing fixtures to the riser.
Piping nodes cannot be performed in places where walls or ceilings pass.
Holes for pipes passing through walls and ceilings are cut out with a margin, it is advisable to insert special sleeves or sections of wider pipes into them.
The points of connection to the riser and the turns of the pipeline are equipped with a tee with an inspection window closed with a plug. Through these windows, pipes will be cleaned in the future in case of clogging.
The riser is located as close as possible to the outlet of the sewer to the outside.

7023 0 0

Do-it-yourself internal sewerage in a private house: regulatory requirements and practical recommendations

Normative documents

These building rules are an updated version of an older document - SNiP 2.04.01-85.

Let's get acquainted with the main requirements of the joint venture related to private construction. Let me comment on some points based on my own experience:

To divert wastewater to the general sewer, closed gravity pipelines should be used;

Sometimes the terrain forces the use of fecal pumps.
In this case, the pump must be installed in a buffer tank that allows the sewerage system to operate for a limited time in the absence of power supply.

Pipes are laid in a straight line, without bends. The direction of the gasket can only be changed with the help of fittings;

This fully applies to pipes made of cast iron, PVC and polypropylene.
Polyethylene allows gasket with some bend (up to about 10 angular degrees).
It retains elasticity even at low temperatures, so that cracks and destruction of pipes can not be feared.

The laying slope must be constant;

This instruction is due to the fact that when the slope changes, the solid fractions of the effluents will linger in areas where it is minimal.
As a result, the likelihood of blockages will increase.

To connect a horizontal section with a riser, it is strongly recommended to use oblique crosses and corners. An exception is crosses, the branches of which are located in two different planes;

This will greatly simplify cleaning in case of blockage.
A cable or wire, resting against the opposite wall of a straight tee, can fold or move in the opposite direction to the blockage.
The oblique tee will direct the cleaning tool in the direction of the drains.

Two baths on the same floor can be connected to a common riser only through an oblique cross;

This is necessary so that during a volley discharge of water from one bath, water does not flow into another.
If the tubing is not tightly connected, overflowing the sewer is fraught with flooding of the bathroom.

For sewerage, it is recommended to use pipes and fittings with a service life of at least 25 years and hydraulic characteristics unchanged throughout the entire service life. Polymer pipes (PVC, polypropylene, polyethylene, etc.) are preferred;
In the basement, internal sewerage is laid openly. In residential premises, it is allowed to be embedded in the floor, walls, boxes and shafts;

If possible, pipes should be left available for inspection and repair. In my practice, there were blockages that could be cleared only by cutting out a section of the riser.
The most typical case is a large shard of thick glass, standing upright between the walls of a cast-iron pipe.

The place where the risers pass through the ceiling is sealed with cement mortar for its entire thickness;

In a wooden floor, mounting foam is used for the same purpose.
The goal is to reduce the propagation of sounds between floors, including through the sewer pipe itself, which under certain conditions serves as an excellent resonator.

It is not allowed to seal pipes in the ceilings of living rooms and kitchens;
The internal sewerage scheme in a private house should include ventilation risers (fan pipes) that are connected to the top points of the system. The fan pipe is displayed 20 cm above the roof at a distance of at least 4 meters from the nearest opening window. In this case, the exhaust part of the riser should not be thinner than its waste part;

Installation of deflectors on the fan pipe is prohibited;

With all due respect to the authors of the joint venture, this requirement is not always worth fulfilling.
The deflector will really limit the draft in calm weather, but it will protect the sewer from wind-borne debris and prevent precipitation from falling into it in a downpour.
For cesspool owners who pay for waste disposal, the latter is quite important.

On the operated roof, the exhaust riser rises above its level by at least three meters;
The device of the house sewerage should provide for the possibility of its mechanical cleaning in case of blockages. For this purpose, revisions or tees with plugs are provided. In a private house, they are located at the bottom and top of each riser, at the beginning of each straight section with three or more plumbing fixtures, as well as at corners;

On long straight sections, revisions or tees for cleaning are located in increments depending on the diameter of the pipeline:

Diameter, mm	Step, m
50	8-12
100 — 150	10-15

If the level of the sides of the plumbing fixture is below the hatch of the nearest yard sewer well (for example, when located in the basement or basement), the corresponding sewer section is equipped with a sewer gate or an automatic fecal pump;
All hydraulic devices are equipped with water locks that prevent sewer gases from entering the premises;

Connections of elbows and siphons with sewerage are carefully sealed with rubber sealing sleeves. Otherwise, gases will enter the room through the sockets.

Several washbasins (up to 6 pieces) and several shower cabins or trays can be equipped with a common siphon with a diameter of 50 m, equipped with a revision or a hatch (cover) for cleaning;
The recommended installation height of plumbing fixtures in the general case (in the absence of people with limited mobility in the family) is:

Practice

Diameters

For bathtubs, washbasins, sinks, shower cabins, urinals, washing machines and dishwashers, the diameter of the connected sewage system is 50 mm. For toilet bowls - 110 mm.

These diameters are sufficient for any reasonable number of plumbing fixtures connected in parallel to the sewer, including two bathtubs in one room, subject to simultaneous volley discharge.

Noise

The sound of water flowing in the pipes will hardly give you much pleasure. A number of simple recommendations will help to avoid it.

If possible, lay horizontal sewer sections in the underground, basement or behind false walls. Risers are best placed in technical or utility rooms;

Where the riser passes through the dwelling, cover it with a box of drywall or wall panels. It is desirable to fill the box with sound-absorbing material (as a rule, mineral wool is used in this capacity); as an option, the riser can be wrapped with foamed roll insulation;
Instead of thin-walled PVC or polypropylene pipes, it is desirable to use polyethylene pipes or the so-called silent sewer. Thanks to the mineral filler and the variable density of the layers, it effectively absorbs acoustic vibrations. The price of such pipes, however, is 2-4 times higher than that of conventional PVC, in addition, some manufacturers use their own diameter system that is incompatible with conventional vinyl fittings;
To fix the riser, use sound-absorbing clamps. equipped with foam rubber gaskets.

Mounting

How to assemble a sewer from plastic pipes with your own hands? Here are the basic installation rules:

The pipeline is laid with a constant slope of 2 cm / m for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm and 3.5 cm / m for a diameter of 50 mm. Any counter slope will become a place of constant blockages: it will collect silt and fat deposits;
The fixing points of the horizontal pipe should be separated from each other by no more than 8 - 10 pipe diameters. If you increase the step between the clamps, loose sections will sag in a year or two, forming sections with a counterslope;
Vertical pipes are fastened with clamps under the necks of the sockets. Such a mount will not allow them to move under their own weight.

Pipe sockets and fittings must be directed against the direction of flow of drains. In this case, there will be a minimum number of irregularities inside the pipe, for which large-sized debris (paper, rags, etc.) that has fallen into it can catch on.

The pipe is easiest to cut with a grinder. Any abrasive wheel can be used for cutting. When working indoors, remember to protect your lungs with a gauze bandage: breathing plastic dust is below average pleasure.

After cutting, be sure to clean the inside of the pipe from burrs and chamfer the outside. The burrs will collect sewage-borne hair, fabric fibers, and other debris. The chamfer will greatly facilitate the assembly of the connection.

If the pipe enters the socket with great force, lubricate it with liquid soap or any other water-based lubricant. Do not use engine oil or other fuels for lubrication: they will cause the seals to crack.

With hidden laying (in boxes and false walls), it is better to assemble the joints on silicone sealant. Even if the seals lose their elasticity, it will not allow the socket to leak.

Ventilation

It is really necessary. Instead of lengthy discussions about the movement of sewer gases in pipes, I will simply share my own experience.

During the construction of the second floor, I brought the sewer to the septic tank without installation, based on the fact that with a system height of only 4 meters, there will be no significant draft in it. In addition, all connections of plumbing fixtures with sockets were carefully sealed.

It was not there: after some time, a characteristic sewer smell appeared in the attic toilet. As it turned out, the following happened:

When flushing in the toilet, the flow of water rushed down the riser, at some point blocking the entire lumen of the pipe;
The rarefaction arising at the same time in the upper part of the riser sucked water out of the bath siphon, disrupting the operation of the water seal;
The lack of water in the siphon opened the way for the aromas of the septic tank to the bathroom.

The problem was quite predictably solved by installing a vent pipe at the top of the sewer.

Heating

In regions with a warm climate, open laying of sewerage sites is often practiced. So, in the Crimea, with its average January temperature of + 3C, you can often find sewer pipes laid between the house and the well along the surface of the soil. The laying of pipes providing runoff from the second floor is also practiced along the facade.

Having looked at other people's buildings, I also laid a section of the internal sewerage to the septic tank along the facade: I didn’t want to spoil the ceiling and the repaired first floor with a riser.

Alas, there are frosts in the warm climate zone. In the very first winter, the operation of the in-house sewerage system showed that it was impossible to do without insulation at all: already at -10C, the drains began to freeze.

The problem was solved by installing a self-regulating. It is a conductive matrix that increases resistance when heated and decreases when cooled. As a result, the lower the temperature, the greater the heat transfer, the more the pipe on which the cable is fixed heats up.

Installation was done like this:

The cable is glued to the bottom of the pipe with aluminum tape. Reflecting infrared radiation, it significantly reduces untargeted heat loss;
Since aluminum tape is extremely fragile, the cable had to be additionally fixed with polyethylene ties.

Several turns of cable are also used to heat the open septic tank.
The main requirement for laying is that the termination and heat shrink between the cable and the cold end must be left outside the drain tank.
They are aggressive and destroy the heat shrink tube in a year or two of operation, but the vinyl insulation of the cable perfectly tolerates prolonged contact with a chemically active environment.

Conclusion

As you can see, sewer installation is not extremely difficult. You can learn more about it by watching the video in this article. Please share your own experience in the comments. Good luck, comrades!

July 14, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

The arrangement of sewerage in a private house begins with a layout and a laying scheme. This allows you to most conveniently arrange all plumbing, make the right slope, accurately calculate all consumables.

As a result, the system will work smoothly, and in the event of a breakdown or clogging of one of the elements, everything can be quickly and easily repaired. In this article, we will tell you how to correctly draw up internal and external (external) sewerage schemes for a private house or country house, what is the optimal depth for laying sewer pipes and what consumables should be used when constructing and installing an autonomous system with your own hands in the house and outside.

Charting starts from a distant plumbing fixture in the attic or top floor. All horizontal lines must be reduced to one riser. To save money and consumables, bathrooms on different tiers are placed one vertically.

Sewerage in the house consists of:

Water seals that prevent odors from entering the room;
Drainage from all plumbing;
Pipes leading drains to the external sewer;
Elbows and tees connecting pipes into a single system;
Clamps in the walls that support the pipes and give them direction and angle.
Central stand.

It is important that the house does not have a transition from a larger sewer diameter to a smaller one. Therefore, in the diagram, the toilet should be located as close as possible to the riser.

Accurate drawing of the internal system depends on the number of storeys of the building, the presence of a basement, the number of plumbing used and the number of users. The depth of the septic tank and the connection to additional equipment (pumping station or separately for each device) also matters.

On the diagram All items must be displayed to scale. so that in the event of a scheduled repair or an emergency, you can quickly figure out the wiring and find a breakdown.

outer line

External sewerage starts from the pipeline from the foundation. Effluent is diverted to a septic tank, cesspool or filtering structure. At each turn of the pipe, revisions are installed (adapters with covers, with which you can quickly clear the blockage). Outside there is also an inspection well and a ventilation hood.

Ventilation is removed from the riser through a fan pipe. Due to strong foreign odors, it cannot be mounted near windows, with access to the courtyard or near smokers. Categorically it must not be connected to a conventional ventilation shaft. Instead of an umbrella, you can use a special vacuum valve at the top of the riser (not to be confused with a check valve!).

Advantages and disadvantages of different types of tanks

The final element of the system is a storage and cleaning tank. In the absence of a central collector for the intake of drains, autonomous installations are used.

Cesspool. It is easy to organize on the site and is the cheapest option. But it cannot cope with large volumes of stocks. There is a possibility of dirt getting into the groundwater and an unpleasant smell.
A do-it-yourself septic tank made of concrete-filled bricks or pre-cast concrete poles c. It performs its functions well, durable and strong. The disadvantages include a long installation time and serious construction costs.
Industrial stand-alone installation. Such a septic tank is more expensive, but the costs are covered by the speed of construction, high quality and long-term operation of the equipment.
Biological treatment station. The most expensive option, requiring constant electricity. Differs in the highest degree of cleaning and big productivity.

Consumables, calculation and prices

Be sure to determine the volume of the septic tank. The calculation is carried out taking into account that 200 liters of water per day is used for each inhabitant of the house. Drains in the septic tank settle for 3 days. Based on these data, we obtain the exact size of the sewage tank.

So, a family of 4 people consumes 800 liters. In three days, 2400 liters are accumulated. Means, it is necessary to select a septic tank of just such a volume. If desired, you can make a small margin in case of a maximum load of the tank. Septic tanks with such parameters cost from 20 thousand rubles.

Main armature:

Crosses for connecting 4 sections at an angle (80-100 rubles).
Tees with a 45 or 90 degree flank.
Elbow for connecting pipes with a height difference (450 rubles / pc.).
Rectilinear double-sided clutch with rubber cuffs in the sockets (from 30 rubles).
Revision (60 rubles)
reductions of different parameters (from 40 rubles / piece)
Hood umbrella (from 50 rubles)

Before you begin to equip the sewer system, you must carefully read the basic requirements put forward to it. As we will tell in a special review.

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Optimum inclination and depth of laying during construction

According to the recommendations of SNiP for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, a stable 3 cm is made for each meter of laying. With a cross section of 100 mm, this value can be reduced to 2 cm. In order to avoid clogging and “fatting” of the sewer in the kitchen, it is advisable to increase the slope by 0.5-1 cm for each meter of wiring.

When mounted on a land plot, the same angle of inclination is observed. A sleeve (a pipe of larger diameter than the main pipeline, protruding 15 cm from each end) is installed in a hole made in the foundation. It provides a transition to the external sewer, and located 30 cm above the freezing level of the soil.

Burying pipes below the freezing level (on average it is 1.6 m) is unprofitable- you will have to make a very deep septic tank. Subject to a constant slope, it will be 4-5 m, where groundwater may already appear. The cost is increased by additional concrete rings and stronger (corrugated) pipes that can withstand both the pressure of the drain and the weight of the soil.

The drain temperature is usually above room temperature, which prevents freezing, and if desired, thermal insulation or heating cable insulation can be used.

Selection of pipes and diameters

Pipes are used to drain waste from plumbing fixtures diameter 5 cm. The pipe from the toilet should have a cross section of 10-11 cm, which will help avoid blockages.

Pipes can be used to organize a sewer system in a private house. cast iron, reinforced concrete or plastic. The latter are more acceptable due to their strength, durability, corrosion resistance and smooth surface.

Outdoor (PVC)

Designed for outdoor networks. They are distinguished by their characteristic orange or yellow-brown color. Despite being relatively cheap, these pipes have sufficient strength, which allows their use both for external and hidden installation. For them, a connection by cold welding is recommended. All turns are made using fittings and bends.

Internal (polypropylene)

For internal communications, they are light gray in color and have different technical parameters, depending on the manufacturer and model. Their common features:

Single or multilayer.
The foam is protected by an aluminum coating and a polymer layer.
The connection is carried out by welding or using special fittings.

Rules for the device and laying of an external system

Briefly, the instruction on how to properly make a local autonomous sewage system in a private country house (dacha) with your own hands looks like this:

Mechanical or manual excavation of a trench.
Formation of a sand cushion.
Layout of all constituent elements (pipeline, trays, fittings).
Connection of fragments, starting from the exit from the internal sewerage. For greater reliability attachment points are treated with silicone sealant.
Testing the tightness of connections at maximum load.
Fill the trench, trying to compact the sand or soil only on the sides of the pipe, avoiding a sharp load at a right angle. The thickness of the sand bed at least 15 cm.

For pipeline turns, fittings for external engineering networks are used. If the distance from the foundation to the septic tank is more than 10-12 m, it makes sense to equip the site with an intermediate revision well.

This video shows how to properly make a sewer for a private house, as well as how to lay pipes yourself:

How to properly sewer in a private house, do everything according to the scheme yourself and lay pipes for the system without errors? Installation of the sewer system will be better if follow a few guidelines:

When installing a sewer it is important to consider every nuance: the placement of plumbing, the relief of the site, the location of the intake manifold or septic tank, the depth of pipe laying and the angle of inclination.

Only with careful scheming, careful planning and order installing a sewerage system in a private house or in a country house with your own hands can guarantee that the system will not freeze in the middle of winter and will drain well without creating additional problems in the house and on the site.