A do-it-yourself kitchen table is both an opportunity to save money and a way to provide the kitchen with unique furniture that fits perfectly into the available space. However, it is important to correctly determine the dimensions and shape of the future structure.
How to make a wooden dining table
A table made of solid wood is beautiful, natural and, as a rule, expensive. But buying such a table is not necessary, because you can make it yourself with no less quality and for much less money.
So, to make a dining table with your own hands, you will need:
- 4 things. baluster legs for the table, 73 cm high and not too thin;
- For the tabletop: 4 dry edged wooden boards 1 m long (for a table 60 cm wide);
- For the frame: 2 boards 80 cm long and 2 boards 40 cm long.
Prepare tools: planer, grinder or grinder, jigsaw for cutting boards, circular saw, drill (with 8 mm drill), screwdriver, sandpaper, self-tapping screws (30 mm), wood glue, dowels, clamps (preferably). And, of course, a pencil, tape measure, gloves and goggles will come in handy.
To finish the table, you will need varnish, stain or paint along with a primer. Let's make the table first. To do this, you need to accurately fit all 4 boards to the same length - 100 cm. If your boards were not sawn at the sawmill, then they also need to be trimmed in width and thickness. Then they need to be carefully polished with a planer. The better you sand the wood, the smoother the countertop will be. Work the edges well so that the boards fit as tightly as possible to each other.
We will connect the boards not with screws and nails, but with glue and dowels (chops). To do this, we make the same marks on the edges of all boards in increments of 10-15 cm and drill holes for the dowels with an 8 mm drill. Then we sand the edges and apply wood glue to them and into the holes made. Now we drive the chopsticks processed with the same glue into the holes and connect all 4 bars in turn. We remove excess glue on the surface with sandpaper and grind it, as well as all edges with a planer. At this stage, you can go over the countertop with a metal sponge to give the wood texture.
So, the tabletop is ready. Now you need to fasten the legs and make a base for it.
To do this, you need to evenly fasten the balusters with short transverse boards with glue and screws. The glue dries for at least 12 hours.
We fasten the legs to the long crossbars and drill holes in them in order to install the countertop later.
After the glue in the frame dries, you can proceed to install the countertop on it (frame).
If you want to make the table longer and wider, then you need to strengthen the table with two additional cross bars, as shown in the photo.
So, the table is almost ready, it remains only to treat it with varnish or stain or paint it, having previously primed it.
What color to paint the table? Start from personal preferences and the color of the rest of the furniture. Below is the most versatile option - the table top and legs are stained.
You can see the main mistakes of staining a tree with your own hands in this video.
If you like gloss, then the surface of the table can be stained, and varnished on top (example in the photo below), or simply varnished.
You can paint the legs white, and stain the countertop to get a design like in the next photo.
How to make a kitchen table from chipboard
A do-it-yourself kitchen table made of laminated chipboard is a practical and budget solution. Such countertops are covered with decorative plastic, which is resistant to abrasion. In the typical version, the dimensions of the tabletop canvas are 3000x600x36 (26) mm, but today it will not be difficult to purchase a chipboard sheet sawn to the desired dimensions or negotiate in a furniture workshop to sell a suitable trim.
You will also need:
- Connecting and end strips;
- end edges;
- Ties.
Even if you get a countertop of the right size, you will need to additionally process the ends - this will make the result more attractive, as well as ensure that the base is protected from moisture. For these purposes, you can use a special furniture edging based on polyvinyl chloride or glue an edge tape. The edging option is considered more practical for a dining table and suitable for home craftsmen.
For the kitchen table, you will also need appropriate supports - you can buy the legs separately or give preference to the finished base. It all depends on which option your drawings provide. The most common option is round legs D = 60 mm and 71 cm high. They can be collapsible, adjustable in height, and also differ in design - matte, painted, shiny.
In our case, these will be shiny chrome-plated legs-rods with a diameter of 60 mm, as well as a tabletop made of white chipboard 36 mm thick and a white plastic mortise T-shaped edging with girths is matched to it.
So, how to make a dining table with a chipboard top:
- The marking is applied to the material according to the drawing. Rounding corners must have a radius of 60 mm or more.
- The tabletop is shaped with a jigsaw.
A saw with reversible teeth should be used, otherwise the plastic coating may be chipped. First, the corner of the chipboard is cut with a jigsaw with a margin of 2 mm, and then it is finally rounded off with a grinder.
- A groove for furniture edging is milled.
- The edging is stuffed. Before this, the ends of the product must be covered with silicone sealant. The sealant is laid both in the edging and on the top side of the countertop. A rubber mallet is used to stuff the piping. Then the excess sealant is removed.
- The legs are attached. To do this, markings are made with a pencil on the back of the table top. In most cases, the legs are placed 100 mm from the edge.
To fasten the holders, self-tapping screws with a countersunk head about 20 mm long are used. After that, the legs are put on the holders and fixed with a hex key - that's it, your new table is ready.
How to correctly determine the dimensions
According to the principles described above, tables can be made larger or smaller in length and width. How to choose the best size for your family?
If we are talking about a standard kitchen with dimensions from 6 to 8 squares, then the drawings will show a typical design with a height of 750 mm and a perimeter of 800 * 500 ... 1200 * 600 mm.
A do-it-yourself dining table should be calculated for a certain number of people. Usually it corresponds to the number of residents - 3-9, but a couple of free places are still added for guests. For large companies, a good solution will be.
Calculations are carried out as follows: the number of persons is multiplied by 60 (“working” perimeter per person). As for the width of the countertop, here we follow the recommendations of experts - its optimal values are from 800 to 1100 mm. Narrow tables are difficult to serve, and wide tables are uncomfortable for those sitting.
If you decide to make the kitchen table oval (round) with your own hands, then you will have to calculate the circumference - diameter * 3.14.
Form Selection Rules
The shape of the kitchen table plays a significant role in the perception of space. Universal design - a rectangle or square with right angles. It is balanced and can be installed close to the wall or in the center of the room, saving space.
Oval models are also quite comfortable and beautiful, but they do not differ in large capacity - the most dimensional product will accommodate no more than 8 people. In addition, they require large areas - more than 8 square meters. meters, because you can’t put them against the wall.
It can also be called a universal and traditional option, suitable for both very and large kitchens. But it has less capacity than a rectangular table.
The best option is a rectangular table with rounded corners. How to make such a table from chipboard with your own hands, we have already described above.
Furniture care rules
After the dining table is made, you will need to take care of the long service life of the product.
So, furniture made of wood, polished and lacquered, needs careful care, as it can be easily scratched. In addition, traces of contact with hot are possible here. A universal polishing composition is selected as a basic wood care.
If we are talking about a countertop made of MDF or chipboard with a plastic coating, then caring for it is not difficult and consists in regular washing with detergents.
Do not forget that kitchen furniture must be moved away from heaters and from walls bordering the street. Direct sunlight will also be harmful to wooden furniture.
This piece of furniture is one of the most versatile in use. The table can be a dining table, household table, installed in a living room, on a veranda, territory, in a workshop, and so on. In a word, it is impossible to do without it. But purchased products do not suit many for a number of parameters - size, design features, shape, or for another reason.
Given that the tree is relatively easy to cut, grind, make a table out of it according to your own drawing, with your own hands for a good owner is not a problem. Yes, and it will be much cheaper. Plus - satisfaction from such work.
room
This is ideally an extension, a barn, an empty garage, although a small area under a canopy is also suitable. To work with a tree on a site, in the open air, means to be completely dependent on the vagaries of the weather. If there are “square meters” suitable for making furniture, then you should worry about high-quality ventilation in advance. Natural is sometimes not enough (besides, it depends on the change in wind direction and pressure), and an exhaust hood is installed.
Arguments that if you use protective equipment, then you can work in a closed space, do not stand up to scrutiny. Wood dust will immediately settle on everything, including the sample with which some actions are performed. Neither an accurate cut along the line, nor a high-quality surface treatment of wood (not to mention the impregnation and finish coating with a paint and varnish composition) can not be obtained.
It is impossible not to take into account the fact that many preparations used for wood processing contain toxic components. For example, varnishes, paints, impregnations, if they are not natural, then harmful fumes are guaranteed.
Tools
Their set depends on the extent to which it is planned to “ennoble” a simple wood structure, what shape to give it and a number of other nuances. If the master does not claim the elegance of a wooden table, does not aim to achieve its originality, then the usual carpentry set will be enough.
For more “fine” work in the process of making a table of unusual shapes, external design, special devices will be needed.
El / jigsaw. With a conventional saw, it will not work to make an inclined vertical cut, accurately maintaining the angle. The canvas will “play”, and therefore the quality of the work will be extremely low. The electric jigsaw is universal in use, besides it gives high accuracy in cutting wood or cuts in it.
Many of the listed fixtures can be rented if furniture making is not a hobby, but a necessity.
Impregnation and other compounds
Rotting protection:
- Working off engine oil is an effective, moreover, free tool. But not for dinner tables.
- Linseed oil. A natural and effective product that penetrates deep into the wood structure and protects it from mold and mildew. Minus - high cost. But if the table is intended for eating - a great option. The drug has no color, therefore, after processing the lumber, it does not leave any traces in the form of darkening, stains, streaks, unlike mining.
- The emulsion is water-polymer. It is characterized by duration of action and safety for health.
- Acrylic varnishes. They practically replaced their predecessors of the "NC" category, as they are harmless and in many respects better than compounds that are diluted with solvents.
- PVA, bone glue and a number of others. More detailed information about carpentry compositions -.
To decorate a tree:
- Colorless varnishes are used not only to protect the material from moisture. With their help, you can save the texture of the tree, shade it.
- Wood stains.
- Varnishes with a coloring effect (toning).
- Paints (but only for wood!).
- Putties.
Using a colorless varnish and pigments, you can make a coloring composition, and any shade. It is enough just to correctly determine the proportion of components. This is easy to do by experimenting with mixing and applying a sample to a rejected board. This will allow you to choose an acceptable tone. More than expedient, since it is not always possible to buy exactly what you need on the market.
Fasteners
All tips for assembling a wooden table with nails (the argument is simple, fast and cheap) are best ignored. The reasons are as follows:
- A nail easily pricks a dry tree (and this is exactly what is taken; more on that below).
- Correctly directing his leg (strictly vertically) is quite difficult. In some cases, it is even more difficult to redo your oversight.
- A tree, even the most protected from rot, eventually succumbs to it. The maintainability of a table knocked down with nails is extremely low. Practice shows that it is rarely possible to remove such fasteners without damaging adjacent structural parts. As a result, instead of the planned replacement of one element, 2 - 3 will have to be changed.
- When assembling a wooden table, if one glue is not enough, you should use only self-tapping screws.
- Sometimes its individual parts (at the joints) require reinforcement. It is not advisable to strengthen the strength with a hardware with a thicker and longer leg. The reason is the same - the probability of splitting the tree. For these purposes, metal strips, brackets, corners are used.
Features of the choice of wood
Someone focuses on the cost of lumber, another is important for the resistance of the tree to decay, for the third - its texture. What can you recommend to a novice furniture maker? Do not use for the table, unless it is intended to be installed somewhere in the back room or garage, the same type of wood. This is exactly what many novice "craftsmen" do, picking up the same type of boards and bars from what is left of the construction or repair and gathering dust in the barn.
When making a wooden table for living quarters, verandas, and so on, you need to take into account the properties of individual species. Naturally, if there is not enough experience in assembling furniture, you should pay attention to cheaper wood. The first table (chair, stool) in life is just a kind of training in manufacturing, gaining experience.
Tabletop. Here in the first place - strength and minimal absorption of moisture. It is on this part of the table that something is constantly spilled. The best choice is pine, larch, oak (although the latter is more expensive). Thickness - at least 3 cm.If the dimensions of the countertop are small, then wood-based slab products (OSV and the like) can be used. But only with lamination to prevent swelling of the material when liquid enters the surface of the table. For example, LDSP.
In the furniture industry, low-grade lumber is not used. This is not economically feasible, since pre-treatment of wood increases the duration of the production cycle. But in the manufacture of something, wood of lower grades, substandard - just right. The same pallets left after using stacks of foam blocks or bricks.
And not just because it's free or relatively cheap. Many of the disadvantages of such wood with a competent approach can be turned into pluses. For example, after coating with a colorless varnish, the countertop acquires a unique original look.
The main thing is that the boards do not have obvious defects in the form of rot, cracks, falling knots and wormholes.
If pine is chosen for the countertop (this also applies to many other conifers), then you need to pay attention to the location of the annual rings. These arcs are called humpbacks. The cuts of the boards show how they are oriented, and this is taken into account in the process of laying them in a row. Samples obtained by the tangential sawing method are arranged in alternation (pink down, the next one up); radial cutting - the same way (with arcs in the same direction). The nuance is insignificant, but it is the observance of this recommendation that eliminates the risk of warping and splitting of the boards.
For furniture, if you think about its durability, you should take only dry lumber. During the drying of the wood, it will deform; this is a natural process, and its consequences in the form of twisting, warping, bending are inevitable. Such a table will quickly begin to warp, and you will have to deal with its repair. And here you need to decide whether to purchase high-dry wood or rid it of moisture yourself. The first option is simpler, but such a tree is more expensive. The second will cost less, but there are a number of purely technical difficulties.
- Firstly, it is necessary to ensure a stable temperature regime in the place where the blanks are stored. Changes in its value will lead to uneven evaporation of moisture, which will negatively affect the strength of the tree.
- Secondly, good ventilation must be organized.
- Thirdly, and, perhaps, this is the most unpleasant moment - you will have to wait, up to about six months, depending on the initial moisture content of the tree. But this is not a guarantee that the result will be expected; Even this takes practice.
This once again confirms the idea that when starting to make wooden furniture for the first time, one should focus on the simplest table for household needs from cheap lumber, without pretensions to its sophistication and originality of design. For example, for a barn, garage and the like.
Variants and schemes of wooden tables
It should be noted right away that any work related to the design and self-assembly is a creative process. There are no stereotypes in this business, so you can only take the model you like as a basis, and everything else - linear parameters, shape, manufacturing specifics - depends on the purpose of the product and your own imagination. Here are just a few examples of what wooden tables can be. For example, for summer cottages, small utility rooms, it is worth choosing structures whose geometry is easily changed - folding, hiking, hanging, garden, level, and so on.
Tables that are supposed to be used for eating, playing games, as coffee tables for installation in living rooms for a specific purpose, are made stationary, that is, of unchanging size. These assemblies are more “solid”, since all articulated parts are fixed rigidly; no articulated joints.
Features of the assembly of wooden tables
If a person undertakes to make something, then he knows how to use the tool, read the drawings and work with lumber. Such a home master does not need to be taught the basics of carpentry. But a number of nuances in the manufacture of a wooden table will be useful to note. These notes will only help in the process of work.
Let's start with the types of connections. There are quite a few of them, but for a table that is assembled with your own hands, the following are quite enough.
On dowels
In this case, the parts are fastened by landing on the adhesive composition (Fig. 1 - 3).
The nuance is that for the manufacture of "cylinders" that are inserted into pre-drilled "channels", a tree of a denser structure is taken than the elements of the table. This is what ensures the strength of the connections. Before installing them, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels and holes.
These round sticks are commercially available, in any furniture store, in several sizes. To grind them, even with a carpentry machine, is a waste of time. It is not recommended to purchase plastic dowels for the table; they are used for collapsible connections. For example, frame furniture (walls, multi-level racks, etc.).
Nails should not be used to fix table elements (Fig. 4). Metal and wood differ in the degree of thermal expansion. Such a connection will not last long - a “shat” will begin, especially if the table is intended for installation on the territory or in an unheated room.
On the tsargs
It is advisable to make such connections if the table has to be either periodically disassembled, or without it it cannot be moved through the doorway. Although not all kings involve the dismantling of the structure. The most practiced options are shown in the figures.
Bolted
Such connections are mainly used for garden or outbuilding furniture; for utility tables. An example is shown in the figure.
The nuance of working with fasteners
In order for the self-tapping screw to be easily screwed in and “go” in the right direction, a hole is first made at the point of its installation with a drill, with a diameter slightly smaller than the leg of the fastener. The main thing is to maintain the coincidence of the center lines, that is, to prevent skew. In this case, for the "landing" of the self-tapping screw, you can do without a screwdriver.
Features of wood processing
Everyone knows that a planer is used first, an abrasive with a large grain, and then a fine one. But sometimes it turns out that the last stage, grinding, has to be done repeatedly. Here much depends on the type of wood and the degree of its drying. After applying the first layer of varnish, the villi may “stand up”. Nothing wrong with that. You should wait for the workpiece to dry and repeat its processing with an abrasive. The work is painstaking and takes time. But it is by this technique that you can bring the "problem" wood to the ideal "smoothness".
To eliminate the risk of injury to a person, all edges and corners of the table should be slightly rounded.
Features of the exterior
- Minor defects in the form of cracks, chips are eliminated with a putty composition.
- After sanding, all wood dust must be removed. In this case, an ordinary household vacuum cleaner with an appropriate nozzle will help out. After such cleaning, it is recommended to wipe the entire table with a slightly damp cloth, let it dry and repeat the cleaning of the remaining dust. After that, you can safely proceed to applying stain or varnish - there will be no “pellets” on the tree.
- You can give originality to the table not only with the help of curly cutouts, an unusual shape of the tabletop or legs, a combination of textures of different species, and so on. One of the good options is art painting.
And finally. Work on the independent manufacture of something from wood (the same table) is just the initial stage in mastering the skill of the “assembly designer”. Having worked out the technologies, techniques on wood, having acquired the necessary skills, it is enough just to switch to other materials - metal, plastic, glass. So the benefits of a wooden table, made according to even the simplest drawing (except for the pleasure of work and the money saved) are obvious - not wasted time.
In the conditions of modern small-sized apartments, it is quite difficult to give free rein to imagination and purchase pieces of furniture that would suit everything. Among other things, it is quite difficult to find such interior elements that would be attractive not only in design, but also in price. These two problems can be solved by the method of independent production of wooden furniture. It could be, for example, a table. You can complete it by preparing all the necessary materials and tools. You can use this piece of furniture both in the kitchen and in the living room.
Preparatory work
In order to make a wooden table with your own hands, you will need to prepare some materials. You will need a furniture shield, the thickness of which is 19 millimeters. This material is highly durable and looks very attractive. The shields at the preparatory stage will need to be marked out, and after that, blanks will be cut out of them. It is important to stock up on the necessary fasteners for assembly. Thus, it will be necessary to prepare 6 boards that will make up the lower support. Their size is 19 x 100 x 965 millimeters. There will be 4 legs, their dimensions are 19 x 215 x 680 mm. The molding of the legs will also come in handy in the same amount, however, the dimensions of these elements should be equal to 1938 x 470 mm. The tabletop supports will be blanks with dimensions of 19 x 125 x 610 mm. A wooden table for a gazebo with your own hands can be made according to the same dimensions. The master must prepare two dowels for legs with dimensions of 10 x 32 mm. Two jumpers with dimensions of 19 x 140 x 1100 mm should also be distinguished.
Additional elements
You will need a steel coupler in the amount of two pieces, its size should be equal to 150 mm. The table top will be limited to the following dimensions - 19 x 1020 x 1900 mm. The worktop plank must be cut in two pieces and have dimensions of 19 x 19 x 1750 mm. Screws, washers, ties, and dowels will be used as fasteners.
Instrument preparation
It will be impossible to make a wooden table with your own hands if you do not stock up on an electric jigsaw, circular saw, hacksaw, drill with drills, planer, milling machine, file, clamps, brush. To fasten the parts, you will need carpentry glue; you can process the wood with sandpaper. The table will look good if it is treated with polyurethane varnish, which can be glossy or matte.
Manufacturing technology
If you decide to make a wooden table with your own hands, then you need to know that each support structure has 3 blanks glued together. An opening should be formed in the central part. Immediately you need to cut out 6 elements for two supports. Next, the master must make straight cuts using a circular saw for this. The corners must be rounded. In two blanks, it is necessary to cut the central part so that the groove falls on the central part of the support. The width of the groove should be slightly less than the thickness of the spike in the leg. This will prevent loosening of the structure during swelling and drying.
The next step is to glue the supports. After applying glue to the surface of the parts, they must be folded so that the upper edges are flush. Reliability of fastening will provide clamps. After the supports are dried, it is necessary to get rid of excess glue. After the clamps are removed, you need to plan the lower and upper edges.
Work on the legs
When a wooden table is made with your own hands, you need to prepare four legs. After the vertical edges, it is necessary to plan and round them with a milling machine. At the ends of long blanks, it is necessary to mark and then cut the spikes, placing them from above and below. This can be done with a circular saw, which must be equipped with a combination disc. After the moldings are cut out and brought to the required dimensions, all 4 ribs can be rounded. On the reverse surface of the moldings, it is necessary to make grooves for glue.
Work on supports
If you decide to make a wooden table with your own hands, a design photo will help you decide what features this piece of furniture will have.
The next step will be cutting blanks for supports. For gluing, a 10 mm groove should be selected in each blank. It is preferable to perform these manipulations immediately. In order to simplify the task, it is necessary to prepare a cardboard template by marking the location of the grooves on it. Further, pairwise gluing can be carried out so that the cut is located in the central part. Everything must be tightened with clamps. Once the glue has dried, you need to clean the saw cuts with an emery cloth.
Leg mounting
If a wooden table is made with your own hands, the photos must first be reviewed by you. It is important to initially fit all connections without using glue. From the wide edges of the connection should be tight. On the side, it is necessary to provide a gap of 1.5 millimeters to compensate for changes in the size of the wood. When edging, these elements will be decorated.
The walls and spikes must be treated with glue, after which you can proceed to pair the legs with vertical supports. Without waiting for the glue to dry, it is necessary to make holes and strengthen the pairing with dowels. If you decide that you will make a wooden table with your own hands, it is recommended to prepare the drawings at the initial stage. For the legs, moldings of the required length should be cut. They need to be glued and pulled together with clamps. The glue is applied, and then left until dry.
If you decide to make a wooden table with your own hands, the drawings can be borrowed from the article. The jumper should be installed high, so that those sitting at the table do not touch it with their feet. It is necessary to glue using two strips, which are preliminarily edged with a molding.
After the glue dries, you need to remove the clamps, and then chamfer. Holes must be made on the short sides for installing fasteners. The tabletop can be made independently, its dimensions may differ from those presented above. At the ends, you need to select the spikes using a jigsaw.
Next, the saw cuts are cleaned with a file. Along the long edges of the workpiece, it is necessary to install strips that are attracted by clamps and dried. Using an edge cutter, you need to align the edges of the moldings. They should be fixed to the planks, and then dry and clean the joints with a grinder.
When a wooden table is made for a summer cottage with your own hands, the drawings will make it possible to understand how the table top and legs are connected. To do this, use U-shaped brackets. On the long sides of the base, quarters should be chosen to fix the sidewalls. The ends of the last elements must be rounded and cleaned. After that, everything is glued and compressed with clamps, and then left until the moment of drying.
Final works
Before you make a wooden table with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the technology of work. At the next stage, with a deviation from the edges of the base by 100 millimeters, it is necessary to make holes, the diameter of which should be equal to 20 millimeters. A through groove should be placed between them. Holes are required so that the base does not split. If you will be making a wooden table for giving with your own hands, the drawings should help in carrying out the work.
Now the master can assemble the table, for this it is necessary to fix the jumper to the legs. Using a pencil, you need to mark the position of the legs so that they are perpendicular to the ends of the lid. Brackets should be installed according to the markup. In the countertop, you need to make 10 holes for installing screws. Next, you can strengthen the brackets. A washer must be placed under each screw, this will compensate for shrinkage, this is the only way to make a folding wooden table with your own hands.
You can change the technology and dimensions of the table at your own discretion. However, it must be remembered that the design should be as strong and reliable as possible. It is important to protect wooden elements from the negative effects of the external environment, especially for those pieces of furniture that are supposed to be used in the kitchen or outdoors.
Table - furniture without which you can not do either in the city or in the country. The table can be placed on the veranda, in the gazebo or just in a shady place. Behind him you can dine, arrange feasts or play board games in the fresh air. Inexpensive, you can only buy a plastic, not large table, a large wooden table for giving is cheaper to do it yourself. The article will present three options for tables and drawings for their manufacture.
Table dimensions and construction features
The optimal size of the tabletop for a summer house is 80x120 cm. A smaller table will be significantly inferior in functionality, a large table will be too bulky and it will be difficult to clean it for the winter. The size of the table 80x120 cm will allow you to hold solemn feasts with the number of participants 8 - 10 people.
A table for a summer residence is easiest to make from boards. In addition, it is the most accessible and inexpensive material. The advantage of making a table made of wood is that the boards can be sawn to the desired size at any construction base, and brought to the dacha without any problems, thereby saving on transportation. It should be noted that with a table dimensions of 75x80x120 cm, the longest board will be a table top board 120 cm long. A board of this length will fit into almost any car.
There are a lot of varieties of table designs, but by and large the difference is only in the form of legs on which the table top rests. Therefore, the legs of the table are the most complex element of the entire structure.
Table top
The tabletop at the table in the country is made of boards. The thickness of the boards can be from 30 to 50 mm. However, the best option is a board with a thickness of 40 mm.
An important point is cutting boards. With a worktop length of 120 cm, you need 5.3 boards 150 mm wide, 6.6 boards 120 mm wide and 8 boards 100 mm wide. Considering that the boards are sold with a length of just over 6 m, it is advisable to choose a board with a width of 100 mm for the countertop.
By choosing a board with a width of 100 mm, you will not have to adjust or resize the table top, which will greatly simplify the work on setting up the table. In addition, there will be 2 more boards 120 mm long, which can be used for other parts.
If you can’t get the right board, you can make the countertop not solid, but at intervals. Such a countertop will look no less interesting. At the same time, water that can accumulate on a table with a solid top will drain through the gaps between the boards.
Table with straight legs
A table with straight legs is the simplest design of a table for a summer residence. This is a stable, comfortable table that will serve well both indoors and outdoors.
Fig.1.
The legs for the table consist of 4 elements, 2 vertical posts and 2 horizontal ones. The upper horizontal rack is attached to the tabletop, the lower one is a support.
Fig.2.
Leg design may vary. For example, instead of resting on the bottom board, you can make sure that the support is on vertical posts, and the bottom board can be made as an additional one for strength.
Please note that in this design the boards are connected without additional grooves. This greatly simplifies the assembly of the table. In order for all elements to be well fixed, it is necessary to glue all joints with wood glue. In this case, the boards can be connected with self-tapping screws.
Fig.3.
- Collect legs. To do this, you need to saw according to the drawing of the board. Treat the joints with glue and tighten with self-tapping screws or a confirmant.
- On a flat area, lay out the boards for the table top, mark the position of the legs and fix the boards of the table top through the top bar of the legs.
- Install a horizontal tie between the legs.
- Wait 2 - 3 hours until the glue dries and clean the table from burrs and sharp edges.
- Next, the table can be varnished. Or just treat with an antiseptic.
Table with X shaped legs
A table with X-shaped legs is essentially not much different from a table with straight legs, it just has a different shape of the legs. However, it is impossible to manufacture without creating additional grooves on the legs. This makes the job a little more difficult.
Fig.4.
Table legs consist of 3 elements. Two crossed supports and a vertical top bar. The top bar, as in the previous case, is necessary for fixing the tabletop.
Fig.5.
To connect the legs in inclined supports, it is necessary to make a slot in the floor of the board.
Fig.6.
The assembly order of the table is as follows:
- Cut the boards to the required length.
- In the legs make a groove in the floor of the board. The groove can be made with a jigsaw or a milling cutter.
- Collect legs. The connections are glued. Parts are fastened with self-tapping screws.
- The tabletop boards are laid out and the assembled legs are attached to them.
- Install the bottom screed board.
- Treat the table from burrs and varnish.
Table with benches
A table with benches is quite often installed on verandas or in the open air. Unlike the designs described above, it does not require additional benches or chairs, the benches are included in the design of the table.
Fig.7.
The disadvantage of this version of the table for the country house is that the design turns out to be rather cumbersome, and it becomes very problematic to remove it for the winter.
Fig.8.
The design feature of the table is that the benches are fixed directly on the legs of the table. The crossbars on which the benches are attached are at the same time a coupler of the legs, and the benches play the role of a longitudinal coupler.
Fig.9.
The assembly order of the table with benches is as follows:
- Cut boards to desired length.
- Assemble the legs and support for the flooring of the bench. The joints are glued and tightened with self-tapping screws.
- Mark the boards for the countertop and mount them to the legs.
- Fix benches.
- Treated with impregnation or antiseptic.
Examples of tables for giving
Fig.10.
Fig.11.
Fig.12.
Fig.13.
Fig.14.
Fig.15.
Fig.16.
Fig.17.
Friends asked me to make a table that can be put in a gazebo in the country. For making a table from a bar with my own hands, I did not choose a special version of the project, but proposed a simple scheme for assembling furniture from standard sawn timber: timber and boards. The main idea was that the table was low and could serve as a bench at the same time. In the workshop I had all the tools and fixtures. It remained to check everything and prepare the workplace in order to make a table of timber with your own hands.
Tools
Since the structure must be made of wood, the tool was mainly needed for woodworking. Here's what I used when making my own table from a bar:
- jigsaw;
- saw;
- gas-burner;
- drill driver;
- wrench with socket head;
- chisels;
- drill-reamer ø 2 cm;
- a hammer;
- hacksaw;
- clamps - 2 pcs.;
- die for cutting external threads ø 6 mm;
- grinder;
- roulette;
- brushes.
materials
Made a trip to the construction supermarket, and purchased the following:
- varnish PF 170 - 0.5 l.;
- wood glue;
- screws 7 cm, 50 cm, washers and nuts, plastic plugs.
Step-by-step instructions on how to make a wooden table from a bar with your own hands
Initially, I wanted to make a table of 50 x 50 mm bars with my own hands. But this idea had to be abandoned. Friends asked to make massive loft-style furniture. Therefore, I used larger lumber. I decided to make the table in two stages: assembling the supporting structure and forming the tabletop.
Countertop manufacturing
- Wood 10 x 15 x 600 cm was divided with a saw into 6 segments.
- The upper corners along the perimeter of each element were cleaned with an abrasive wheel at an angle of 45 0 0.5 cm wide.
- To make 2 through holes ø 6 mm through the tabletop, I clamped 3 pieces with clamps and drilled with a drill. Then he left 2 segments and added a new element and drilled again. I did this because there was no long drill.
- Outside, the holes were expanded with a reamer ø 2 cm to a depth of 1 cm.
- Rebar ø 6 mm sawn into 2 pieces 0.9 m long.
- At the ends of the studs, I cut the thread with a die.
- The side adjacent sides of the wooden elements were smeared with wood glue.
- I threaded 2 studs into the holes. I put washers on the ends of the rods, and screwed the nuts.
- Nuts closed with plastic caps.
- I sanded all the side and horizontal surfaces with a fine abrasive wheel mounted on a grinder.
- The gas burner burned the surface of the countertop slightly. This gave a noble appearance to the tree, emphasizing the structural pattern of the cut of the tree.
- The entire countertop was stained with a brush.
- The property of this agent is characterized by the fact that it penetrates deeply into the structure of wood, strengthening and disinfecting it. But fine fibers create hairiness on the surface of the furniture. So I refinished everything.
- The surface of the tabletop was varnished PF 170 for 2 times.
Assembly of the support structure
Before making a table from a bar, I drew drawings of the supporting part and countertops of future furniture. According to the dimensions and dimensions specified in the drawings, I began to manufacture the supporting structure of the table with my own hands.
- I made furniture legs by sawing a tree 10 x 20 cm into 2 parts 86 cm long + waste.
- At the top of the supports from the outside, I fixed bars of 30 x 30 mm on screws.
- I made a cross-beam from a board 20 x 150 x 660 cm, fixing it with screws to the centers of the sides of the supports.
- I burned the entire outer surface with a gas burner, covered it with stain, and polished it.
- Supports varnished PF 170 in two layers.
- The tabletop was mounted on a support frame.
- Through slats 30 x30 mm, I fixed the table top with screws.
Cost of materials
- timber 100 x 150 x 6000 mm = 1500 rubles;
- timber 100 x 200 x 2000 mm = 440 rubles;
- timber 30 x 30 x 2000 mm = 50 rubles;
- board 20 x 150 x 740 mm = 20 rubles;
- abrasive wheels for grinders = 50 rubles;
- reinforcement with a diameter of ø 6 mm, length 2 m = 20 rubles;
- nuts and washers 4 pcs. in stock;
- sandpaper = 10 rubles;
- stain - 0.5 l. = 100 rubles;
- varnish PF 170 - 0.5 l. = 50 rubles;
- carpentry glue 250 g = 160 rubles;
- screws 70 mm, 50 mm available.
Total costs amounted to: 2400 rubles.
Labor costs
The time spent on making a do-it-yourself table from a bar according to the drawings is combined in the following table.
Taking into account technological breaks in work, it was possible to make a table in 3 working days. A country table made of timber, made by me according to the drawings, can play a role not only as a plane for arranging objects, but also as comfortable seating furniture. This model attracts with ease of manufacture, low labor costs and practicality. During the assembly of furniture, you must comply with all safety requirements and use personal protective equipment.
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