Draining and draining water from a bath - how to lay a drain pipe under the floors and make a drain. How to make a drain of water under the bath How to make a drain in the steam room

The device for draining water in a bath is one of the most important processes, without the proper organization of which a comfortable and long-term operation of the structure under construction is impossible. Therefore, the implementation of this type of work is given a significant amount of time and money. The entire system for draining waste and used water in the bath consists of two parts:

performing a drain inside the bath, which consists in a special floor design;
subsequent drainage of wastewater outside the bathhouse through any of the sewerage options (drain well or pit, etc.).

Drainage device in the bath floor

As a rule, the drainage of wastewater in the bath is provided directly in the floor structure, and is carried out immediately during its construction. This is the easiest and most effective way to organize the draining of water in the bath.

In most cases, the three most common design options for draining water in a bath with different floors are used:

flowing;
non-leaking;
concrete.

Draining water in a bath in a leaky floor

To make a drain of water in a bath in a leaking floor is a fairly simple structural and technological task. But for all its simplicity, the design under consideration has a significant drawback - its operation is possible only in the warm season. Considering the low cost and ease of the device for owners of baths in summer cottages, using them only in the season, it is quite a common and convenient solution.

a hole is dug to a depth of about 60-70 cm, approximately in the center of the pit, dug to make the foundation of the bath;
then, from the pit towards the sewer well or where the drain pit is planned, a trench is dug into which the pipe is laid with a minimum slope of 5-6 degrees;
then it is necessary to fill in the foundations of the bath, then along the edges of the underground it is necessary to excavate the soil and pour the screed. Its purpose is to direct the water flowing from the bath floor, first into a pit, and from there through a pipe into a sewer or drain well or pit;
make the floors of the bath from wooden boards, which are laid on pre-mounted beams.

Do not forget about the mandatory processing of all used wooden structures under the floors. It consists in antiseptic absolutely all and waterproofing of hidden wooden surfaces.

Beams, logs and boards used for bath floors should preferably be made of hardwood, this will increase their service life. The bath floor boards are laid with a gap of at least 5 mm, are not nailed, but are fastened along the edges, which makes it possible to periodically remove them for drying.

Advantages of draining water in a leaking bath floor:

low cost of materials used;
simplicity of design and technology of the device, which allows you to perform the whole range of work with your own hands;
simplicity and simplicity of repair work;
a sufficiently high level of comfort provided by the use of wood, and the feeling of a "warm" floor.

The disadvantages of this design, in addition to the complexity of use in cold weather, include a rather short service life. This is partly offset by the ease and low cost of repairs. In addition, the installed wooden pallet, taking on some of the water, will also slightly increase the service life.

Draining with non-leaking floor

The considered option is to drain the water in the bath - the work is somewhat more complicated than the previous one. However, it is devoid of the disadvantages described above, can be easily used all year round, and is more reliable.

Work sequence:

The considered design of the water drain in the bath is technologically more complex, more expensive financially, but it is also much more reliable and has a longer service life without the need for repair.

Drainage when laying a concrete floor

Concrete floors in the bath have one important disadvantage, compared to any wooden option - they are cold. But, despite this circumstance, when building a bath in modern conditions, it is relatively often used. The reason is that they are durable and easy to use, tiles can be used over them, and modern ceramic tiles are one of the most durable and reliable materials. In addition, the tile has an attractive appearance, so that various design solutions are possible. In addition, a wooden pallet is often laid on top of concrete or tiles, reducing the problem of a "cold" bath floor.

This drain design is carried out when the foundation work has already been completed, before the start of the flooring work.

Work sequence:

make a hole in the insulation necessary to install a ladder to drain water;
from the lower mark of the drain, install a chute attached to the side of the ladder so that the slope is at least 5 degrees;
connect the ladder with a pipe to the existing drainage system (sewer or drain well, pit, drainage system);
when performing a finishing floor, regardless of whether tiles are used, seal all joints and install the grate on the ladder.

With this design, the drain is installed either in the center of the steam room, or in one of the corners near one of the walls. The second option is much simpler, so it is much more common. After completing the above work, the following scheme is formed:

used drains fall into the drain;
from there, through the gutter, they follow into the ladder;
from the ladder they move along the pipe to the sewer system provided and operating on the site.

Aftertreatment Systems

There are several of the most common and frequently used drainage systems:

using the principle of natural filtration;
drain hole;
construction of a drain well;
using a pit directly into the soil under the bath;
common sewer for the entire site.

natural filtration

Relatively complex system that can be used with a relatively large amount of wastewater, except when it contains solid particles. The system consists of a container and an extensive system of sewer pipes that extend from it and are located over the area of the site.

The tank contains a septic tank, which partially processes particles polluting the water. The volume of the container must exceed the volume of drains at least three times. With a certain frequency, the septic tank in the tank changes, and the sewage machine pumps out the sediment that accumulates in it.

drain hole

A fairly simple design, can be used when groundwater is deep enough. The volume of capacity that the drain pit needs depends on the number of drains. For example, if the bathhouse is operated by three people, a sufficient volume of the drain pit is 75 liters. The pit is located 2-3 meters from the building. In most cases, the edges are simply reinforced with ordinary ceramic bricks or stone, after which filter material is placed there. It is usually arranged from two layers: in the lower one - fragments and crumbs of brick, expanded clay, crushed stone, and in the upper one - construction sand.

Quite often, instead of fixing the walls with bricks, they use the digging in of a plastic or metal barrel, from which the bottom is first knocked out, and numerous holes are made in the walls.

Drain well

No less simple and affordable for self-manufacturing design. It can be used when groundwater is close to the surface and a drain hole is not possible. The drain well consists of a sealed container, to which a pipe is connected for the flow of effluents. Periodically, the liquid should be pumped out by a sewage machine. Usually arranged at a distance of no more than 5 meters from the building.

Pit (soil under the building)

Quite often used design, which is popular due to the simplicity and reliability of the design. The pit is made directly under the floor of the steam room. It is filled with some kind of filtration material, which is usually expanded clay, crushed stone, sand, or a mixture thereof. In fact, this system also uses the principle based on the natural filtration of wastewater. Its use is possible when their volume is insignificant or the bath is used infrequently.

sewerage system

If a single sewerage system is completed and operates on the site, then wastewater is discharged directly into it. For normal operation, it is enough to observe the difference in level marks.

Conclusion

Properly and correctly executed water drainage system will help to increase the service life of the bath and the level of benefit and comfort from visiting it.

Many owners of private houses want to have a good Russian bathhouse on their site. But before proceeding with its construction, it is necessary to carefully consider and competently organize the drainage system. Currently, there are several ways to remove waste water from a bath that do not require large financial investments and supply to the general city sewer system. A well-made drain in a washing bath will help ensure a long service life for floors and foundations, as well as prevent the appearance of mold and fungi on the walls.

Drainage device in the washing room at the bath

Drainage in the bath can be carried out in various ways, which depend on the type of floors in the washing room of the bath. There are wooden leaking and non-leaking, as well as concrete. For the first case, it is necessary to arrange a special reservoir for the flow of water, from which it will be poured into the sewer. And for the second option, the floor is laid in the bath with a slope, and special gutters and ladders for the drain are mounted. Any drainage system in the bath should be arranged before laying the floors.

When choosing the creation of an external sewage bath, it is necessary to take into account factors such as:

The intensity of the operation of the bath;
building dimensions;
Soil type and depth of its freezing;
Sewer system (its presence or absence);
Is it possible to connect to the central system.

The above aspects are among the most important in determining the drainage.

For a small bathhouse, where one or two people will bathe several times a month, you should not make a complicated sewer. It will be enough to dig an ordinary drain hole or a small pit under the bath.

The type of soil is of great importance when creating a drainage system. For sandy soils that absorb water well, it is recommended to make a drainage well. In clay soils, it is better to equip a drain pit, from which drains will need to be periodically pumped out. It is also necessary to take into account the degree of freezing of the earth, since the water in the pipes that will be laid above the required mark will simply freeze and the plastic will crack.

If you do not want the water from the bath to simply flow out and soak into the ground, you must use a septic tank with a sump, where the drains will settle and be cleaned, and then distributed through irrigation pipes. The most complex and expensive way to remove water is to build a well with biological filters, which consist of slag, broken bricks and rubble. The peculiarity of this method is that when waste water enters the well, its walls are gradually covered with a layer of silt, in which microorganisms that purify water live.

Advantages and disadvantages of each external drainage system in the bath

Consider the different types of drainage, as well as their characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.

This is a sealed pit made of reinforced concrete, in which water from the bath accumulates. When it is full, it is pumped out using a special device.

Advantages:

The simplicity of the device;
Does not require maintenance;
Low cost.

Flaws:

Drainage well

Such a water drainage system is a pit with a filtrate that purifies wastewater. The filter can be sand, broken brick, crushed stone, slag, etc.

Advantages:

Low cost;
Ease of construction.

The disadvantage of the system is the regular replacement of the filtrate or its cleaning. And this procedure requires a lot of physical effort.

Pit

Such a system consists of a hole that is dug immediately under the floor of the washing room. At the bottom of the pit there is a natural filtrate, which passes through itself wastewater, which gradually drains into the depths of the soil.

Advantages:

There is no need to run a pipeline;
Low cost device.

Flaw:

This is a system that consists of a septic tank and pipes emanating from it, which remove water purified from impurities. Drainage systems are installed at a certain slope so that the water quickly leaves and is completely absorbed into the ground.

Advantages:

Works offline;
It can be used to create a sewerage system with several points for receiving waste water;
It can even clean "black" drains if an anaerobic septic tank is installed.

Flaws:

Alternatively, you can connect to the central sewer. Then there will be no need to arrange external facilities for the reception and processing of waste effluents. But here you have to pay for the services of specialists and draw up various permits.

The internal drainage system of the bath

The washing room inside the bath is equipped taking into account the future drain and the selected floors. Drainage must be carried out in such a way that moisture does not remain in the room, which will contribute to the development of fungi and mold.

Leaking wooden floors are the most widespread, as they are the simplest option for draining a bath. The boards are laid with gaps of about 3-4 mm, so that through the cracks the water from the washing room goes into the pit unhindered. Such floors are collapsible so that high-quality drying of the boards can be carried out. In this case, the floor is arranged without a slope for draining, since water will soak into the ground under the bath.
Non-leaking floors are arranged with an angle of inclination to the drain, through which the waste water will flow into the water collector, and then into the sewer. Also, water can drain into any selected drainage system.
Concrete floors are easy to care for, durable and reliable, so they are perfect for arranging a washing room in a bath. Such floors are also made with a slope towards the drain, so that water can quickly and freely go into the selected sewer system.

Preparation for the construction of a drainage system: drawings and diagrams of various drains

Scheme of the device of a wooden leaking floor with a drain. Must be done before laying floors.

If a dry steam room is provided in the bath, and there is a shower in the washing room, then it is necessary to provide for a drain in the steam room.

In the sewerage of the bath, where water will be collected from several rooms, it is imperative to install a riser with a ventilation valve.

If the steam room and the washing room are in different rooms, then the gutter for draining water is laid under the ceiling between them.

Under the wooden floor, it is necessary to make a concrete base with a slope to the central part, where the gutter will go, joining the sewer.

Also, instead of concrete, you can lay a pallet made of stainless or galvanized steel on the floor under the flooring.

Video: device for a galvanized pan for draining water under the wooden floor of the bath

When installing self-leveling floors on which tiles will be laid, it is necessary to observe the slope, where a ladder is installed at the lowest point to receive water, which is connected to the sewer.

For the installation of a sewer system inside the bath, it is necessary to use modern, durable plastic pipes that have a long service life, and therefore will serve for many years. They are not afraid of moisture, they are not subject to corrosion, like ordinary metal or cast iron ones, and they are also easily and simply assembled on their own without the involvement of specialists. PVC pipes are excellent for internal sewerage in a bath, they are malleable in any processing, and can also be with or without a socket. Service life more than 50 years.
Cast iron pipes are too expensive, heavy, and also inconvenient to work with.
Asbestos-cement pipes are the cheapest, but they often have many defects. Also, for the installation of a non-pressure drain, pipes with a smooth inner surface of the walls are required, and asbestos cement products often have rough inner walls with recesses.

Types of plastic pipes:

PVC pipes (polyvinyl chloride);
PVCH (pipes made of chlorinated polyvinyl chloride);
PP (polypropylene products);
HDPE (pipes made of low pressure polyethylene);
Corrugated polyethylene pipes.

Any of the above types of pipes can be used for an internal drain in a bath. The diameter of the product for the main line is taken based on the future intensity of operation of the bath and the number of drain points. For an ordinary bath with a steam room, a washing room and a toilet, pipes with a diameter of 10-11 cm are recommended. If plumbing is not installed, then pipes with a diameter of 5 cm will be enough to drain water.

Calculation of material for creating a drainage system and tools

For the installation of internal sewerage in the washing room, we will need gray PVC pipes, as well as joints and adapters.

The number of pipes depends on the length of the internal drain system.
We will also need tees with a size and an angle of 110–110–90 ° - two pieces (highlighted in red in the diagram);
Elbow adapter - 90° - three pieces (highlighted in black in the diagram).
Horizontal sewer pipes - Ø11 cm;
Vertical pipes for the device of water drain receivers - Ø11 or 5 cm.
To connect pipes of different diameters, you will need adapters from 5 to 11 cm.
For the external sewerage of the bath, you will need orange pipes (PVC).

For work we need:

Spade bayonet (special equipment);
Building level;
Bulgarian with a cutting wheel;
Sand;
Cement;
Rubble.

Step-by-step instructions with a photo for the manufacture of various drain designs in the bath

Before considering the drain system in the washing room, it must be said that the entire sewer internal system in the bath is interconnected and consists of three waste water receivers.

The trapik for the drain is a siphon that has a water seal that does not let unpleasant odors into the washing room, and it also serves as a grate that does not let large debris into the sewer.

In the photo we can see the slope of the tiled floor to the drain for the drain.

A drain drain must be installed in the bath rooms.

Video: trapika functioning system with a water seal in the washing room of the bath

First, we will lay the sewer pipes. To do this, we dig trenches.
At points A and B, the depth of the trench should be approximately 50-60 centimeters in relation to the ground level (outside the foundation). If the height of the base is 30-40 centimeters, then the depth of the trench will be 80-100 cm in relation to the top of the foundation.
From points A and B, we gradually dig ditches so that the slope is about 2 centimeters per 1 linear meter. We pour sand about 5-10 cm thick at the bottom of the trench and tamp it well, observing the necessary slope.
We fill the foundation and make a hole for the sewer pipe.
Drain pipes are installed vertically (1 and 2 for traps). To do this, we drive sticks about 1 meter long into the bottom of the trench, and then we tie plums to them. We install vertical pipes, making a small margin of length. In the process of installing the floor and installing the ladders, we will shorten them.
We install the sewerage system according to the specified scheme.

In the construction industry, the depth of laying sewer pipes in the southern regions is about 70 cm from the ground surface. In the middle lane, the depth varies from 90 to 120 cm, and in the north it is at least 150–180 cm.

In order for the drains not to freeze, the tubes must be insulated with several layers of special 10 mm polyethylene foam.

Under one end of the pipe we dig a shallow hole for a drain. Now we need to try to drain a certain amount of water in order to check the correctness of the slope of the pipe. We check all the pipes one by one.

We make an external sewerage system with our own hands

If the volume of waste water does not exceed 700 liters. per week, then we can use old truck wheels as a septic tank. We can calculate the water absorption area of a septic tank, given that the degree of water absorption of 1 sq / m of sandy soil is about 100 l / day, mixed sandy loam is about 50 l / day, loamy soil is about 20 l / day. Depending on the type of soil and its water absorption, we calculate how many wheels we need.

We dig a hole 2x2 meters and a depth of about 2.3 - 2.5 meters, depending on the level at which the pipe will exit. We fill the bottom with sand 10–15 cm, and rubble on top - 10–15 cm.
In the pit, we tightly stack the wheels vertically on top of each other about 5-7 pieces. The top point should turn out so that the drain pipe can definitely enter it.
In loamy soil, it will be enough to install 7 wheels. If the site has sandy or sandy soil, then 5 pieces are enough.
We cover the wheels with a metal or plastic durable cover with a hole made in it. We insert a ventilation pipe into it, through which air will flow, ensuring the vital activity of microorganisms that process wastewater.
We carry out a test drain and bury the entire structure.

How to make a drain well for drainage: a guide

The drain pit can be made of a plastic or metal tank, reinforced concrete rings or red brick.

We choose a place in the lowest place of the site so that the water from the washing room leaves by gravity. In order to make it convenient to pump water out of the well and the car could drive up to it freely, you need to choose a place with a convenient entrance.
Digging a hole with an excavator. If there is no equipment, then you will have to dig manually, and this is a lengthy process. We monitor the condition of the walls of the pit (they should not crumble). We can dig a hole in a square, rectangular or round shape.
We make the bottom with a slight slope to the hatch for easy cleaning of the tank. We fill up the sand 15 cm and concrete the bottom. Instead of concreting, you can simply lay a reinforced concrete slab of the desired shape and size.
We lay out the brick walls. You can take a used red brick. For masonry, we make a solution of clay and sand. In one of the walls during the masonry process, we install an inlet pipe for water.
Since brick walls are waterproof, we need to treat them with a special sealant. To do this, take bituminous mastic or other similar material.
We mount the ceiling of reinforced concrete slab. The upper part of the well on all sides should be blocked by about 30 cm. To pump out water, we make a hole above the pit section where the slope is located. Overlapping is arranged in several steps. First, we make formwork from boards and pour a concrete layer of 5–7 cm. We put reinforcement on top and pour the next layer of mortar. Let the concrete dry for a few days.
We put a metal hatch, and cover the concrete floor with polyethylene and fill it with soil, so that only the hatch is visible on the surface.

How to place a drainage system with a pit

Under the floor of the washing room we dig a hole 2x2 meters and a depth of at least 1 meter. At a height of 10–15 centimeters from the floor level, we install a pipe that will connect the pit to the external sewerage system. We observe a slope of 1 centimeter per 1 linear meter.
At the bottom we put a layer of gravel, broken brick, gravel or expanded clay, and pour a layer of sand on top. We strengthen the walls with brick, large-wave slate or natural stone.
On top of the pit, we lay logs, and we already mount a wooden floor on them.
So that the waste water can easily go straight into the pit, the boards are laid at a distance from each other. Such a wooden floor can not be attached to the logs so that it can be easily removed and dried.

The second version of the pit device is a water collector, from which effluents will be poured into a septic tank or sewer when a certain mark is reached. Basically, this method of drainage is used when arranging leaking floors.

How to install a ground filter for a bath

For the device of such a system, a separate septic tank will be required, which will serve as a sump and distribution well. Drainage pipes will depart from it in different directions, designed to distribute treated effluents around the entire perimeter of the yard. You can buy a septic tank, or you can make it yourself from large plastic or metal containers.

A reinforced concrete septic tank or a round brickwork structure functions perfectly.

Drainage system rules:

The length of the pipe should be no more than 25 meters;
Laying depth of at least 1.5 meters;
The distance between the pipes is not less than 1.5 meters;
The width of the trench for drainage is at least 50 cm, maximum 1 meter.

We dig a trench, taking into account the angle of inclination of about 1.5 °. We check the angle with the usual building level.
We pour 10 cm of sand at the bottom of the clay soil trench and 10 cm of gravel on top. In loamy soils, the pipe will need to be wrapped with filter material to prevent silting. On sandy soil we make a sand and crushed stone pillow, and we wrap the pipes with geotextiles.
Pour 10 cm gravel on top of the drainage, and then fill the ditch with earth.
The filtration system must be ventilated, so at the end of the drainage pipe we install a pipe about 50 cm high, and put a safety valve on top.

Video: how to bring the drain system to the bath

Properly made drain in the washing room of the bath and its other premises guarantees a long service life of this facility. It will help protect the building from the harmful effects of moisture and prevent pollution of the territory by waste water. Even in small baths, it is necessary to equip a drainage system, so this process must be approached with full seriousness and responsibility.

Probably, the vast majority of owners of summer cottages and suburban private houses cannot imagine their life without their own, since such a structure is an integral part of ancient Russian traditions. A bath is not only a place for washing, but also a kind of home “dispensary”, working to restore the strength and health of the owners, for the necessary periodic relaxation. But in order for it to bring only pleasant sensations, its arrangement, and in particular - all the necessary communications, must be done in accordance with all the rules.

One of the traditionally problematic components of the bath system is the disposal of used water, so it is very important to properly organize its removal and collection point. It is strictly forbidden to dump contaminated, untreated wastewater onto the ground or into natural water bodies, and such an approach will inevitably lead to penalties from environmental supervisory authorities. Therefore, in the absence of a centralized sewage system (as it most often happens), a special pit of storage or drainage action is usually created for these purposes. And in order for the drain pit for the bath to function effectively, it is necessary to study its design before starting construction, and during the period of work on the arrangement, follow the recommendations of experienced craftsmen.

The main types of drain pits

The arrangement of any drain pit is a rather laborious process, since the pit will most likely have to be dug manually. At the same time, such a hydraulic structure does not differ in the complexity of the design, so any owner of the site can build and equip it on their own, without even involving assistants, of course, if there is enough strength for earthmoving.

Drainage pits can be divided into three main types - a sealed container, a pit with drainage capacity, and consisting of several chambers.

To begin with, let's figure out what each of the varieties is in principle.

A sealed drain pit is most often equipped at construction sites with shallow ground aquifers. It is often called a cesspool, that is, requiring periodic emptying of the collected volumes of dirty water.

For its construction, a pit is dug into which a container with a sufficiently large volume is installed. It will collect sewage. As the tank fills up to a certain critical level, the waste is pumped out by a sewage machine.

This option is environmentally friendly, since no contaminants and chemical cleaning solutions enter the soil and groundwater, which can adversely affect the condition of the fertile soil on the site, as well as have a negative impact on high ground aquifers. However, this option is not convenient and economical, since you will have to constantly monitor the filling level of the tank and often call specialized vehicles, and such services are not cheap.

Prices for septic tanks

A hermetically closed bottom is not created in the drainage drain pit. As it is used a bulk layer of filter building material - most often crushed stone or gravel is chosen for this purpose.

In addition, often holes are also made in the walls of the drainage pit at a certain height through which water will be absorbed into the soil. This option is great for a bath and is perhaps the easiest to build, however, if the characteristics of the soil on the site allow it.

A septic tank is a whole system consisting of two or more chambers with different purposes.

In any of the options, the first chamber most often has a sealed design and serves to collect, primary filter and treat waste - solid components settle to the bottom, and liquid ones are clarified, undergo a biological treatment cycle due to the action of aerobic microorganisms. This container is connected to the second chamber with a special overflow pipe - the clarified liquid waste flows into the next compartment, which is already organized according to the principle of a drainage well. Water passes through the drainage, is cleaned and absorbed into the soil.

If a septic tank of three tanks is planned, then the third chamber is made drainage. The second one serves for the final settling of suspensions, deeper purification of water through the action of anaerobic microorganisms. And from here comes the overflow of the purified liquid into the drainage well.

A septic tank is most often equipped in the case when it is supposed to collect the entire considerable amount of liquid waste from both a residential building and a bathhouse.

What is important to know about the design and rules of septic tank equipment?

A septic tank is already a rather complex engineering structure, the creation of which must obey certain rules. Often, homeowners prefer to install a prefabricated prefabricated system. What are the rules for arranging such a treatment plant, and what to pay special attention to when - read in a special publication of our portal.

Materials for arranging a drain pit for a bath

Various materials can be used to build drainage type bath drain pits. Their choice directly depends on the estimated volume of effluents, the financial capabilities of the owners of the site and the convenience of construction.

Drainage pit from barrels

To create this water drainage system, metal or plastic barrels of various sizes are used. However, such a drain can be equipped in different ways:

First option. At the bottom of the excavated pit, covered with drainage material 300 ÷ 400 mm thick - crushed stone or coarse gravel, after tamping, a barrel with perforated walls and a cut bottom is installed. This takes into account the fact that between the walls of the barrel and the pit there should be a space of at least 100 mm, which is also filled with drainage backfill.

A pipe is brought into the barrel at the required slope angle, through which the used water from the bath will flow into the container. These runoffs will gradually, through the holes in the walls and through the bottom part, seep into the drainage layer, be cleaned, and then soak into the surrounding soil. In some cases, not only the free space of the pit is filled with drainage material, but even the barrel itself, that is, water will flow immediately into the drainage layers, and then into the ground. This way the barrel will never fill up.

It must be correctly understood that such a scheme is not suitable for collecting other types of wastewater from a residential building. For a bath, which is used for its intended purpose once or twice a week, such a pit becomes one of the best options.

Second option. In this method of arranging the pit, two barrels are used, installed at different levels - one is about 200 mm higher than the other. They are interconnected at the top with an overflow pipe. Water from the bath enters the first upper container, soapy sediment and solid suspensions settle in it, and when it is filled, the water overflows into the second barrel, to which one or two long drainage pipes with perforated walls are attached.

The outlet pipes from the second tank are laid in drainage trenches with gravel or crushed stone filling, through which the water purified from chemical precipitation will be distributed, moistening the soil. The trenches are covered from above with a layer of fertile soil, approximately 500 mm thick, and can be planted with ornamental shrubs, which will constantly receive watering. Thus, two problems are solved at once - the removal of water from the bath and the irrigation of plants on the site.

This option for arranging a drain pit will be discussed in detail below.

Brick drain hole

The arrangement of the walls of the drain pit can be done with the help of bricks, which are laid out with gaps - through them, water is drained into the drainage backfill and further into the ground. The difference between this pit and the first version, made from a barrel, differs only in material, but the principle of operation remains the same. A drainage layer is poured into the gap between the soil and brick walls, which will purify the water and distribute it throughout the pit, diverting it into the ground.

A pit made of brick is more durable and designed for a larger volume of water. Moreover, if you dig a pit deep enough, and make the bottom and lower part of the walls airtight, then this design may well be used to drain other waste, but in this case the pit will have to be periodically cleaned.

To equip such a variant of the drain pit, it is not at all necessary to use a new brick - the used material is also quite suitable.

Prices for metal barrels

metal barrels

Drainage pit made of concrete rings

If there are financial and technical possibilities, then the drainage pit can be built from concrete perforated rings, which are installed in the prepared pit. After installing the rings at the bottom of such a well, a drainage backfill is arranged.

In this option, the entire space between the walls, as in the previous cases, is also covered with drainage material, so the pit, provided that it is used only for bathing needs, will never be filled with water. In the same case, when the pit is deep enough and the bottom of the well is cemented, then such a pit is suitable not only for a bath, but also for a common one. True, this will require additional calculations, an assessment of the absorbent properties of adjacent soils and the location of aquifers.

Pit from old car tires

A drainage pit made from waste car tires can only be used for liquid waste, so it is the best suited for collecting periodically incoming water from the bath.

Tires are installed in different ways: in some cases, holes are cut in their side walls, in others a small gap is provided between the slopes, in others, the outer walls are almost completely cut off, but the principle of operation of the drainage pit remains the same.

This option for draining water from the bath can be called the most popular, as it is easy to arrange, affordable (tires are easy to find for free) and practical to use.

On the diagram, the numbers indicate:

1 - Crushed stone or gravel of a large fraction - drainage backfill, with a layer of 250 ÷ 300 mm thick.

2 - Old car tires.

3 - Drain pipe from the bath (there may be two of them)

4 - Crossbars for laying the cover.

5 - Cover or hatch.

Around the laid out stack of wheels, and sometimes inside the resulting well, a drainage cushion is backfilled, which makes it possible to retain and purify the water coming from the bath. With good drainage capacity of the soil and periodic use of the bath, the pit never overflows.

It should be noted that other materials that can withstand exposure to high humidity are also suitable for building a drain bath pit.

How to independently equip a drain pit for a bath

Soil survey at the site of the planned drain pit

In order for the drainage system from the bath to be effective, it is necessary to determine the type of soil in the area at the approximate depth of the planned pit. To do this, a trench or test hole is dug. In order for the bath to be used in winter, the depth must be below the freezing level of the soil. Information about soil freezing in a particular area is easy to find on the Internet, or you can consult with the owners of neighboring plots who have been using systems of such drain sewers for a long time.

Prices for concrete rings

concrete rings

Sandy soils, sandy loams, including those with stony inclusions, have good drainage capabilities.

But dense clay layers can cause problems. At high humidity, they are well saturated with water, swell, and become practically waterproof, when dried, they shrink. In addition, they are highly susceptible to frost swelling. These qualities of such soils are unfavorable both for laying and when laying pipes in trenches, as they can lead to deformations and damage to themselves and other elements of the system.

To build a drainage pit in such soil, if it extends to a great depth, is an almost meaningless exercise. Well, if it is necessary to lay a pipe through such layers to a drainage pit that reaches the depth of the soil with high absorbency, then the bottom of the trench must be lined with a sand cushion 100 ÷ 120 mm thick, which will prevent the hard impact of ground vibrations on the elements of the drain system.

The level of occurrence of groundwater (GWL) is also important, since the degree of absorption of water entering the drain pit will also directly depend on this. So, between the bottom of the pit and the location of a stable aquifer, there should be a distance of about 1000 mm. If the groundwater is located close to the surface, then the polluted water will not go well into the drainage, and such a well will soon turn into a fetid pit, as it will be constantly filled. In this case, as with clay soils, the drainage pit option will not work. You will either have to install a sealed container that requires periodic emptying, or organize water drainage to special surface filtration fields.

Having chosen the material for the construction of the pit, it is necessary to decide on several more important points of its arrangement, on which the efficiency of the system depends, the environmental safety of both the site itself and its inhabitants.

First of all, you need to decide on the place where the pit will be located.

Quite often, owners have a drainage pit directly under the building, but this becomes possible only if:

- the pit is equipped before the construction itself;

- the building rises above the ground on a columnar or pile foundation, which will need to be well waterproofed;

- good ventilation should be provided under the bath building;

- the sewer pipe connecting the drain of the bath and the pit will require effective thermal insulation.

If the pit is located separately, away from the bathhouse, then it must be provided that it is at the required distance from sources of drinking water, natural reservoirs, residential and outbuildings, trees, the border of the site and the road passing near it. The required standards are shown in the diagram below:

The pit should be located below the level of the drain hole in the floor of the bath, at least 150 ÷ 200 mm, and the recommended distance from the bath building is 3 ÷ 5 meters.

If the drain pit has to be located close enough to the structure of the bath, then:

- the bottom of the pit should have a slope of 20 ÷ 25 degrees, diverting water from the walls of the building;

- perforation in the walls of the barrel, concrete rings or tires, must be done from the side that will be farther from the walls of the bath;

It is very important to observe the correct slope of the sewer pipe so that dirty water does not stagnate inside the channel, but immediately goes into the drainage pit, there is no risk of freezing when using the bathhouse in winter. It is especially necessary to remember this in cases where it is decided to place the pit far enough from the bath. The amount of slope required depends on the selected pipe diameter - this is quite clearly indicated by the diagram below:

It should be noted that to organize the drainage of water from a small bath without a toilet, a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm is usually sufficient. In order to maintain the desired slope, when digging a connecting trench, as well as when adding a sandy "cushion" into it, control the difference in its depth using the building level.

Arrangement of a drain drainage pit - step by step

In this section of the publication, two options for drain pits will be considered, which can be equipped independently.

conventional drainage pit

This version of the drainage pit has a design that can be made from various materials, which were discussed above.

Illustration
	After determining the location for the location of the drain pit, you can proceed to digging the pit. For a bath drainage well, a pit depth of 2500 ÷ 3000 mm will be sufficient. It can have a round or square shape in cross section - it will depend on the chosen material for arranging the walls. For example, if the pit is made out of brick, then it is more convenient to lay a square or rectangular shape out of it, but in some cases a round well also stands out from it. The diameter of the pit should be 150÷200 mm larger than the prepared container.
	When the pit is prepared, a trench is dug from it to the building of the bath at the right angle for laying the drainage pipe. The width of the trench can be 300 ÷ 500 mm, and the depth will depend on the level of soil freezing in the area where the bath is built, but not less than 500 mm at the entrance to the well.
	The bottom of the finished pit is covered with stone of the middle fraction - it is gravel, crushed stone, chipped brick or even broken slate. The drainage layer should be at least 300 mm, since it is designed to retain dirty water and clean it, that is, moisture must flow to the soil by capillary action, which will allow it to be quickly absorbed.
	Further, they act differently. You can immediately lay a sewer pipe, and then work on the brick walls of the water intake well, or first install or build a container, and in the course of its construction, a drainage pipe is inserted into one of the specially made holes. Most often, the pipe is laid at a time when the walls are brought out to the level of the depth of the trench, otherwise it will simply interfere with work.
	So, the walls of the drain well can be built of brick. Masonry is carried out in compliance with the clearance between adjacent bricks in a row of 40 ÷ 50 mm. The wall can have a thickness of half a brick or one brick - this parameter is chosen by the builder, and to a greater extent depends on the amount of prepared material. Having raised the walls of the well by another 200 ÷ 300 mm, the space between the soil walls and the brick walls is filled with drainage backfill.
	If concrete perforated rings are used to form the walls, then specialized equipment will have to be involved in their installation, since each of them has an impressive mass, and distortions should not be allowed during installation. After their installation, the distance between the soil and concrete must also be filled with drainage backfill. It should also be noted here that if concrete rings are used for the pit, then one should not rush to install the walls of the sewer pipe into the hole, since under their weight they can sink somewhat into the ground - it happens that by 100 ÷ 150 mm. Therefore, it is recommended that the finished concrete well be left alone for some time to shrink, otherwise the plastic pipe may crack or break from the pressure and stress that has arisen.
	When using metal barrels for the pit, the bottom and lid are cut off from them, and the side walls can simply be cut with the help of a grinder. The cuts are made at a distance from each other of 200÷250 mm horizontally and in increments of 100÷120 mm in height. If two barrels are used, they are placed one on top of the other. After installing the lower one, the free space around its walls is filled with drainage. After that, in the second of them, in the upper one, a hole is marked and cut out through which a drainage pipe will be installed in the barrel. A marking hole can be cut with a grinder, but an opening made with an electric jigsaw will still be more accurate. To do this, a hole is drilled at one of the points of the marked circle, into which the nail file of the tool should freely enter.
	If plastic barrels are prepared for the drain pit, then they are mounted in approximately the same way as metal ones, but quite often the drain pipe is connected through the top cover of the container. In a plastic barrel, the bottom can also be cut off or several round holes with a diameter of 100 ÷ 120 mm are cut into it.
	Holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled in the side walls along the entire perimeter of the polymer container with a frequency of 100 ÷ 150 mm horizontally and vertically. Around the barrel and under it, crushed stone or gravel is backfilled, into which, as in previous cases, water will flow from the holes of the barrel, be cleaned and go into the ground.
	The most commonly used and material for arranging the drainage well of the bath are car tires, which are stacked one on top of the other. On the inside, at the edges of the tires, in three or four places, holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled, through which they are fastened together by means of, for example, plastic clamps-puffs. The sewer pipe can be brought between two tires. In this case, for emphasis, along the edges of the plastic pipe and in three or four more places between the tires at the place of its passage, bricks are installed that will remove the load from the plastic from the upper slopes.
	Another option for driving a pipe is to install it in a hole cut in the side wall of the tire. When choosing this method, it is necessary to foresee the possible shrinkage of the structure by cutting a hole larger than the pipe diameter by 70 ÷ 80 mm.
	Quite often, the drain bath pit is not filled with drainage material around the barrels or tires, but is filled with it by two-thirds - this allows water to slowly flow to the soil walls and slowly soak into them.
	It is recommended to strengthen the top of the pit with brick walls by equipping a concrete platform with a hole for the hatch. To do this, a formwork is built around the well, into which a reinforcing grid is laid, and then it is poured with concrete mortar, with a layer 70 ÷ 80 mm thick.
	After the concrete has hardened, a homemade cover made of a steel sheet and a corner is installed on the hole. Factory-made hatches, metal or plastic, are also quite applicable.
	Special plastic sewer manholes can have various shapes and linear parameters. So, when planning to install this particular option, the hatch is purchased in advance, and the top cover of the drain pit is already equipped according to its size.
	A well made of concrete rings is usually covered with a special cover made of the same material with a ready-made hole for a plastic or cast-iron hatch.
	The walls of the well, built from tires or from barrels, have less rigidity than brick or concrete, so it is best to strengthen them with cement mortar mixed with crushed stone. If the drainage was filled up between the walls of the well and the soil, then its upper layer, standing 120 ÷ 150 mm, is recommended to be made from the solution mentioned above. Further, the top of the pit can be left in this state by simply installing a hatch on the hole, or you can equip a concrete platform above the structure with its subsequent backfilling.

Pit on the principle of a two-chamber septic tank with an output to the filtration field

The second option is more complex in design, but its functionality is much higher. This system is perfect for arranging in areas with groundwater close to the surface, since it does not require a deep pit. In addition, such a design can also be a solution for organizing drainage water from the foundation, from a storm well filled from linear storm water inlets on the site or their gutters on the eaves of the roof of the house.

To figure out how to cope with the arrangement of such a hydraulic structure, you should consider this process in detail.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	For this system, two plastic barrels are used, which are easy to prepare for installation work and connect to sewer pipes of the same material. Usually, two or three containers with a volume of 200 ÷ 250 liters are enough for a drain pit of a small bath.
	The pit for the installation of barrels is also dug 100 ÷ 150 mm larger than their diameter, and due to the fact that containers of equal size will be installed at different levels, the pit for them should have a stepped configuration. The depth of the pit in this system should be 450 ÷ 500 mm more than the height of the barrel. This distance will be needed to equip a drainage cushion under the barrel and a recess for the pipe entering it. The difference in the installation level of the tanks should be 150÷200 mm, and the distance between them varies between 200 and 300 mm. Barrels are installed in one line. The bottom of the pit is compacted and covered with rubble of medium fraction, with a layer 80 ÷ 100 mm thick, which also needs to be compacted.
	Next, you can proceed to work on the preparation of containers. The barrel installed above will serve as the primary chamber, that is, a sump for dirty water. A neat hole is cut in its top cover into which a drain pipe will be installed. In the side wall, on the opposite side from the hole in the lid, holes are cut for the pipe, which will connect the first barrel to the second one, installed somewhat lower. To insert plastic pipes into the lid or into the walls of the barrel, you can find special flanges in the plumbing store, such as the one shown in the illustration.
	If not, then you will have to cut a hole with maximum accuracy, and then for sealing - do not spare high-quality silicone sealant.
	Additionally, it is recommended to cut a hole for installing a ventilation pipe with a diameter of 40 ÷ 50 mm, or install a tee, as shown in the illustration, where one outlet will be designed to connect the sewer drain pipe from the bath, and the other, vertical, for the ventilation pipe.
	The second barrel is equipped with three holes, one of which is drilled in the top cover, and two - in the side wall, below the top edge by 100÷120 mm. The axes of these side windows must be turned radially from the axis of the central hole by 45 degrees.
	Branch pipes with 45-degree bends installed on them are cut into the side holes and sealed. As a result, the pipes for connecting the drainage pipes will become parallel to each other - as shown in the illustration.
	Additionally, in the lower part of the walls of the second barrel to be installed, on the opposite side of the entrance, small holes are drilled, 5 mm in diameter, at a distance of 150 ÷ 170 mm from each other. This is an additional outlet of water to the drainage backfill around the barrel. However, if powerful filter fields will certainly cope with their task, and even more so if such a septic tank has to be installed in the immediate vicinity of the bath, then this operation is not mandatory.
	The result should be such a design, as shown in the illustration. Having mounted a system of barrels and nozzles, you can proceed to the creation of a filtration drainage field.
	For the drainage platform, which is located at a slope from the installed barrels, a trench is dug, having a width of 1200 ÷ 1500 mm and the same depth to which the first barrel above is buried. If desired, the drainage filter field can be stretched over the entire area, as it will not become an obstacle to arranging beds for annual crops or planting shrubs above it. A geotextile sheet is laid on the bottom of the resulting channel, on top of which drainage will be laid. Backfilling the trench with crushed stone is done in layers, each of which should be carefully tamped and distributed under a slope along pre-set pegs. The slope of the trench should be approximately 25 mm per linear meter. The pegs pre-installed with the necessary difference in height will become a kind of beacons for the correct backfilling of the drainage layer.
	As the drainage material falls asleep around the lower barrel, water is poured into it, otherwise the external pressure of the soil can deform it. It is recommended to fill the space between the walls of the barrels with gravel or coarse sand, which should be compacted by spilling water. Further, pipes with perforated walls are connected to the nozzles, through which water will be distributed over the drainage site. Holes are drilled in increments of 150÷180 mm along the bottom and sides of the pipes. Pipes after drilling are dressed in a filter "casing" made of geotextile - so that the inside of the pipes is not subjected to silting.
	The next step of the pipe and the entire space of the trench is covered with crushed stone of the middle fraction mixed with sand. Such a layer should reach the lid of the barrel installed below, that is, completely cover the pipes from above with a layer of at least 100 ÷ 120 mm. On top of the rubble, it is best to backfill several different layers of soil. So, crushed stone is first covered with geotextile, on which a layer of moistened sand 70 ÷ 80 mm thick is laid, and the rest of the space can be filled with fertile soil. On this site, it is quite possible to equip a flower bed, plant annual vegetable crops or even small shrubs with a shallow fibrous root system.

At the end of the publication, it should be noted that there are other materials that can sometimes be found in the yard among old stocks or even seemingly unnecessary trash, which in fact may well be suitable for building a drain pit for a bath. For example, you can find a use for old sheets of wave or smooth slate, or even trimmings of corrugated board left after roofing work.

Some resourceful owners of country houses lay out the walls of the drainage well with glass or plastic bottles that are filled with sand, find other very interesting solutions. Therefore, if there is a desire to save money, and at the same time free up part of the yard or sheds from old materials, then you need to turn on the fantasy “to the fullest” - and act! We will be glad if some creative master will share his innovations on the pages of our portal.

Another example of a simple drain for a bath is shown in the video below.

Video: How to make a drain for a bath yourself, at minimal cost

An integral part of the steam room is water. But so that it does not stagnate, it is important to know how to make a drain in the bath. In this case, certain nuances must be taken into account. For buildings that are on piles, a thoughtful approach will be required so that communications do not freeze. Depending on the load on the premises, different decisions will be made.

Even before construction

It is worth thinking about even before the laying of the foundation begins. In this case, it will be much easier to draw a conclusion. The following points should be analyzed:

What is the size of the planned building?
What is the frequency of its use?
How many people will be inside at the same time?
Will it ?
Will the washing room be a separate room or combined with a steam room?
What is the depth of soil freezing?
What is the composition of the soil?
Is there a central sewer?
How much free territory is there around the bath?

This questionnaire will greatly simplify the creation of a gasket drawing, and will also provide an opportunity to determine which of the options that will be described below is best for a particular situation.

Briefly about the floors

A big role in how effectively all moisture will be removed from the steam room or washing room is played by the correct approach to the manufacture of the floor, as well as the drain hole. The flooring can be wood or concrete. The first, in turn, is divided into:

flowing;
non-leaking.

The essence of the leak is that a space is left between the boards through which water can simply merge under the building. This solution is suitable for the southern regions. In the second version, the boards are laid in two layers with tight joints. In this case, a slope is observed towards the groove or drain hole.

The concrete floor must be insulated. If this is not done, then the legs will be very cold. When pouring, just as in the case of a non-leaking wooden floor, a slope is observed towards the drain hole or in the middle where the gutter will pass. Additionally, wooden gratings are laid on top to make it more comfortable for those staying in the room.

The ladder for different designs will also be different. If this is a bathhouse that is constantly heated, or it is known that the room does not freeze through, then you can install a product with a water damper. Usually it is located in the corner or in the middle, where all the liquid collects. Installing such a structure in a wooden floor will not be difficult:

Work is carried out before the final floor is installed.
The location of the drain hole is selected according to the slope of the surface.
Marking under the ladder is being made.
A hole is drilled so that a jigsaw file can be inserted. An opening is cut out for the product.
The entire surface of the floor is covered with a dense plastic film.
A slot is made in the place where the drain hole will be located.
The plastic drain is mounted in place.
The joints of the film are coated with silicone sealant.
Finished flooring is being produced.

Note! With this solution, even if water seeps somewhere under the floor, it will flow down the oilcloth to the drain point.

But most often baths are used less often, and if a similar design is made there, then this may be fraught with the fact that the water inside freezes and the product simply breaks apart. To prevent this from happening, you can make a ladder with a barrier without liquid. One of the solutions is easy to implement in a wooden bath, the other in a bath with a concrete floor.

For wood:

You will need a small sheet of galvanized metal measuring 62 × 38 cm.
It must be marked as follows: from each edge, set aside 2 points at a distance of 10 cm. The points of the two sides must match so that a square with a side of 10 cm is obtained on the corner.
In the resulting squares, a diagonal is drawn from the corner to the point.
All points are connected by a line to form a rectangle inside. These marks will serve as our guide for the fold.
At a distance of 17 cm from the edge of the smaller side in the middle of the sheet, we make a notch. This will be the center of the hole for the pipe if it is 50 mm in diameter.
Now, along the lines drawn, it is necessary to bend this sheet to get a small trough.
The sharp edges sticking out on the sides are bent to the larger side.
A plastic or wooden plank is laid inside. In size, it should be 39 × 17 × 0.5 cm.
The capacity of this container is about 6 liters. When the water begins to drain, it lifts the bar and freely enters the hole. After the level drops, the plank falls into place and closes the hole. This is done so that there is no smell.
Even if it happens that the board freezes to the trough, then when hot liquid gets in, it quickly thaws.

Note! Such a drain mechanism will be very relevant for baths that stand on a pile or column foundation, when the temperature is below zero under the floor.

For concrete:

In order to implement the project, you will need a plastic or durable rubber ball.
When the floor is poured, it will need to be placed above the drain hole and drowned a little there. From above it can be pressed with something so that it does not move.
An additional slope is created around the ball.
In this position, the ball remains until the screed is completely solidified. After it is very simply separated from the frozen mixture.
It is he who will serve as a shutter. When the water begins to drain, it will lift the ball. After that, it will fall into place and close the hole, preventing the penetration of an unpleasant odor. This should not freeze, and if it does, it thaws quickly enough.

Simple water collection systems

The simplest solution for draining liquid would be a leaky floor solution.

A hole is dug under the steam room (or washing room, if they are not combined). Its dimensions will coincide with the area from which the water will drain.
You need to deepen it a little below the freezing of the soil. Sand is laid on the bottom in a layer of 10 cm and is well rammed.
The rest of the space is covered with gravel or expanded clay so that another 10 cm is left to the top. Everything is carefully rammed.
The rest of the space is filled with soil that has been dug.

Nothing more needs to be done. The liquid will fall into this hole, be filtered and go further into the soil.

Note! This design will be relevant if the bath is used no more than once a week and at the same time there are 3-4 people in it. In the case when the soil under the bath is clayey, then it will be necessary to make a transition pipe to the pit, which can be located a few meters from the bath.

To implement the following idea, you will need a plastic or metal barrel with a volume of 200 liters.

A place is chosen near the bath.
A hole is dug to a depth below freezing of the soil. Its diameter should be 30 cm larger than the diameter of the barrel. This is necessary for ease of installation.
A layer of sand of 10 cm is laid on the bottom and is well rammed.
For another 10 cm, a layer of fine gravel is laid and is also well rammed.
A hole is cut in the side wall for a pipe through which water will flow.
A hole is drilled in the bottom with a drill and a feather drill for 26 mm. It is necessary for the ventilation hose.
A nut is screwed onto the ¾" pipe and a sealing gasket is put on. It is pushed through the hole. Another gasket is put on and the whole structure is fixed with a second nut. An adapter is screwed onto the upper thread to the HDPE pipe, which will act as a ventilation pipe.
The barrel is placed upside down in the pit.
A drain pipe is connected. It is desirable that it go inside by 15‒20 cm. So, when the soil is displaced, it will not be pulled out.
Approximately to the middle of the pit, it is covered with gravel and rammed, but so as not to damage the barrel. The remaining space is filled with soil.

This disposal method is also suitable for non-clay soils. The capacity is quite enough for 5 people to take a bath at the same time once a week.

Systems in heavy use

In cases where the bath will be used more intensively or there will be a toilet in it, it is necessary to provide solutions thanks to which the system will cope with a large volume of liquid. If the building is located near a private house and VOCs are provided for it, then you can draw a conclusion directly to it. The fastest way to prepare a single-chamber septic tank or cesspool, for this you need:

Dig a pit. Its depth should be just over 3 meters so that 3 concrete rings can easily fit, and they do not reach the surface by 30 cm.
If the bottom is planned to be made filtering, then a sand bed of 20 cm is made, a layer of crushed stone of 30 cm is laid on top. Everything is well rammed. If not, then concrete is poured in a layer of 20 cm and the rings are immersed in it.
The walls can be strengthened in another way, for example, laid out of brick. In this case, it is necessary to make masonry with holes for water drainage.
A suitable hole is made to enter the sewer pipe.
From above, the pit is closed with a reinforced concrete slab.
A ventilation pipe is installed in the lid.

Such a septic tank is cleaned with a sewer. It must be positioned so that it has an entrance. The distance to the building must be at least 2 m. It is possible further, but then communications will have to be laid to a greater depth.

In order to increase the interval between cleanings, you can make several cameras. In this case, the water will be cleaned more efficiently, and it will also be possible to increase the volume of average daily flows. The essence of the device is to make the first two containers hermetic according to the described method, and make the last one with a filter bottom. At the same time, they are connected to each other with the help of pipes. In the first and second compartments, heavy particles settle. There they are decomposed by bacteria. Partially purified water enters the third section, which then goes into the ground.

Alternatively, you can use plastic containers or buy

Any bath is a place where you can take a break from daily worries, relax and take a steam bath, so a large amount of water always accumulates in such a room. To keep the bath in working condition for a long time, the problem with the removal of this water must be solved. In this article we will describe how to make a drain in the bath with our own hands, and also give the main types of such structures.

It is necessary to make a decision about the type of drain at the design stage of the bath. Some prefer not to complicate their lives and rely on the outflow of water into a pit under the bath floor.

However, the consequences of such a decision may be as follows:

mold begins to grow under the floor;
an unpleasant musty smell appears;
the structure of the bath can shrink due to the destruction of the top layer of soil.

At the same time, we note that the location of the sewage pit directly under the floor of the bath is sometimes impossible due to the composition of the soil, for example, with clay inclusions. Such soil does not absorb water well, therefore, all the troubles described will appear much earlier. In order to prevent unpleasant consequences, it is best to organize a full outflow of water from the bath.

The do-it-yourself drain device in the bath can be organized in two ways:

construction of a special septic tank on the site;
tie-in to the central sewer system.

Types of floors in the baths

If you decide to do the drain in the bath with your own hands, then the first thing to consider is the type of floors, since they bear the brunt of high temperature and humidity, no matter how well the drain is made. Therefore, the process of arranging the floors must be treated with increased attention and scrupulousness.

There are two types of floors - concrete and wood, each of which is applicable to a particular type of bath. If your bath is a massive capital structure with a rest room, dressing rooms, a shower room or a pool and a steam room, then it is best to stay on concrete floors equipped with a waterproofing layer. In addition, this option is relevant if the bath is planned to be used all year round.

But in the case of wooden log cabins, which are used mainly only in the summer, wood floors are quite allowed, as a more profitable and inexpensive construction option with a small amount of work.

However, do not forget that the tree, despite all efforts to protect it, treatment with antiseptics and other materials, will eventually become unusable and the flooring will have to be replaced.

Concrete floors

The design of the concrete floor assumes the presence of such layers:

compacted layer of rubble;
sand-cement mortar;
a layer of vapor barrier material;
insulating layer of expanded polystyrene;
cellophane film for waterproofing;
another layer of sand cement;
rebar mesh covered with concrete screed.

On top of the screed, you can tile the floor tiles, or use wooden ladders.

Wooden floors

Wood floors can be made in two versions - leaking and non-leaking type. In the first case, a concrete screed is located under the boardwalk, which is poured with a slope towards the water drain hole. This type of floor dries for a very long time, so it often deteriorates very quickly.

More preferable in operation is the floor of the leaking type. The design of such a floor assumes that a pit is located under the boardwalk, from which a pipe leaves for the outflow of water into the drain pit, equipped with a water seal to prevent foreign odors from entering the premises.

At the same time, the boardwalk itself is laid out on the logs, without nailing and leaving gaps of 0.5 cm. Through the cracks, water will freely flow under the floor, and if necessary, all boards can be removed and dried in the fresh air.

Organization of the outflow of water from the bath

First of all, in order to understand how to properly drain the bath, you need to take into account a number of such factors:

the composition of the soil at the site of the construction of the bath;
the level of occurrence of groundwater on the site;
the size of the room and the expected number of users of the bath, the frequency of its operation, on which the volume of the septic tank and the throughput of the drain hole depend.

Based on these parameters, when designing a bath, a decision should be made on the design of the drain, as well as its dimensions, materials for its manufacture and the method of fixing it in the ground.

Well with a filter at the bottom

The design of the drain pit with a filter bottom is primarily used to clean wastewater from dirt and chemicals, as well as to trap bacteria. Subsequent water filtration is carried out directly by the soil layer. But at the bottom of the well, gravel, crushed brick or sand are used as a filter.

To ensure the outflow of water from a bath designed for 3-4 people, a well with a diameter of 1.5 m and a depth of 2 m is sufficient. It can be either rectangular or round in shape - the latter option is preferable due to the uniform distribution of pressure on all walls. The design of the cylindrical shape will need to be corrected much less often.

Since it is necessary to make a drain in the bathhouse in the country house without damaging the building itself, it is advisable to retreat from it at a distance of about 3-5 meters. Such a gap will ensure, first of all, the safety of the foundation of the bath from washing away, and also prevent the penetration of unpleasant odors from their well into the bath. But if you place the drain pit further, you will inevitably have to purchase additional pipes for water drainage. In addition, it is difficult to ensure the correct angle of inclination over a long distance.

If the soil in your area is dense enough, then it is enough just to dig a hole for draining and lay filter materials - sand, crushed stone and broken bricks - on the bottom. Additional reinforcement of the walls is not required.

However, most often the boundaries of the well still need to be strengthened. Good enough material for this are well rings, brickwork, plastic barrels or metal tanks. Alternatively, the drain is made from car tires. So that the upper edge of the well can be closed with a lid and sprinkled, it is deepened 30-40 cm from the soil surface.

According to the drain scheme in the bath, a trench can be dug from it to the pit, through which water will arbitrarily fall into the well by gravity. However, it is best to equip the drain with pipes made of asbestos, metal, plastic or ceramic, with a diameter of 50-100 mm. In this case, a trench is also necessary, but its depth will depend on the depth of soil freezing, but not less than 50 cm. Pipes are laid at a slope of 20 mm for each meter of distance.

At the design stage, the future design of the drain and the features of the organization of the floor are thought out in detail. Economy version of the drain in the bath in the country - the implementation of the floor with a slope towards the drain hole. With this design, wastewater enters the pipes and is discharged directly into the drain pit.

Note that arranging, according to the step-by-step guide, the drain in the bath with your own hands is possible only in cases where the groundwater runs deep enough. Otherwise, the drain pit will be filled not so much with sewage as with groundwater, that is, it will lose its functional affiliation.

Note that any design of the drain pit has a number of inconveniences - it must be pumped out periodically, such a septic tank must be located in a place convenient for the entrance of special vehicles. And in the case of a filter well, the filler at the bottom must be changed periodically.

An alternative to a drain pit is to use a sealed septic tank, such as plastic. Such a device will be especially relevant in cases where a toilet is equipped in the bath, that is, the nature of the drains will require more thorough cleaning.

Another type of drain from the bath involves the presence of a filtration well and the subsequent withdrawal of effluents into a drainage pit.

Outflow of water from the bath to the sewer system

If there is a passing central sewer at the location of the bath, then the best solution would be to bring the outflow of water directly into it. However, all plumbing work and the organization of the drain in the bath must be done before laying the finishing floor covering.

At the lowest point of the floor, which is located under a slope, a PVC gutter is installed that is resistant to high temperatures. The slope of the gutter should be towards the outlet pipes.

Before crashing into the central sewer system, you must obtain special permission from the company servicing it.

You will need to obtain a number of such documents:

a contract concluded with a design bureau authorized to carry out installation and earthworks, which is confirmed by certificates;
consent signed by neighbors to carry out any work on the site.

In order to always be able to access the connection point and make repairs, it is necessary to provide a manhole. It is the main condition for obtaining permission to insert into the sewer system.

The air in the steam room will always remain fresh and fragrant, if you follow a number of useful tips when installing the drain:

If it is planned to drain water into the sewer from several points of the bath, then each drain hole must be equipped with a water seal, in particular, a siphon of any design. This device prevents unpleasant odors from entering the room by means of a water plug inside it.
Sewer ventilation, carried out from a 5 cm pipe brought to the roof of the bath, serves the same purpose.

Thus, following the instructions, you will be able to drain the bath yourself to ensure long-term and hygienic use of the bath.

Draining in the bath with your own hands: a step-by-step guide on how to make an economy option in the country, device and diagram, photo and video

How to make a drain under the floor in the bath with your own hands

A bath on a personal territory is the dream of many owners of summer cottages. However, in order to start its construction, it is necessary to provide for all the nuances of the installation of this structure. Particular importance should be given to the drainage system, because the drain in the bath must be organized in accordance with all the rules of hydraulics and in compliance with safety standards for ecology and construction.

Design stage

It must be borne in mind that many different methods have been devised to remove water. Let's imagine several options for draining in a bathhouse, organized with your own hands with a step-by-step guide. The choice of a specific design option depends on the individual conditions of the site and the possibilities of implementing the chosen idea. The main thing is to keep a reasonable balance between the cost of resources and the result.

It is advisable to adhere to the following rules during the work and at the design stage:

Work with drainage in buildings made of timber or logs should be carried out only after the building has completely shrunk. Otherwise, as a result, incorrect slopes will be formed due to different subsidence.
The drain in the bath on screw piles needs additional insulation of the outlet pipe. This will avoid unwanted freezing and the formation of ice jams. From the outside, the pipe is wrapped in mineral wool or mounting foam is used.
It will be possible to provide good thermal insulation for pipes located under the floor in a bath with a drain when filling the base with expanded clay. Clay granules are covered with a concrete screed from above. This solution is also suitable for pile structures.
Before you drain the water in the bath, it is worth increasing the water-repellent properties of the materials. For this, roofing material or surface treatment with special mastic is used, which, when the temperature rises, does not emit harmful or toxic substances.

Internal sewerage system

Since there is a lot of water in the bath, there are 2 main ways to divert it:

through leaking floors, when a storage tank is being equipped, from where water is already discharged into the sewer;
on sloping floors, when all the water flows into one corner, from where it also goes through the piping into a drain pit or sewer.

The sewer system must be carried out even before laying the floors.

How to do it right

Trenches are dug for sewer pipes with a difference of up to 20 mm per linear meter.
Sand 120-150 mm thick is poured into the bottom of the trench and compacted tightly, periodically spraying with water. Remember to control the slope of the trench.

We mount pipes (for these purposes, PVC products, known for their strength and ease of installation, are best suited).
If, according to the project, a toilet will work in the bathhouse, assemble the sewer riser and attach it to the wall. It is desirable to equip the sanitary zone with ventilation - forced or natural.

The next step is to install the floors.
Already on the finished floor surface, sewer gutters are installed, equipped with gratings with a small section. With their help, water will freely go into the sewer, and debris and small objects will accumulate on the grate, thereby eliminating clogging of pipes.

Installation of gutters with gratings

In order to avoid unpleasant odors from the sewer in the bath, it is advisable to use ready-made drains instead of gutters, they are already supplied in combination with water seals.

At the end of the assembly, all equipment is connected, after which you can begin to organize street sewage (sewage pit or well).

Natural filter for waste water

Some builders refer to this version of the drain device in the bath as labor-intensive in terms of costs. It is in demand when there is a significant amount of solid particles in the waste water.

The basis of the system is a hollow container with waterproof walls. There is a pipeline leading to it. Fluid escapes through the pipes and is absorbed into the surrounding soil.

The installation of this wiring will be the correct drain for the bath if the average groundwater level in the vicinity is below 250 cm.

The cavity for receiving waste water should correspond in size to a three-day volume of waste water. The pipe is mounted at a height of 5 cm above the level of the drain, and the branch pipe is installed at the level of the drains.

Over time, there will be an accumulation of waste and sediment. They are usually removed with the help of sewage machines.

Drainage pit equipment

The system for draining water from a bath implies, in some cases, the presence of a prepared and equipped pit. This option will be in demand in areas where groundwater runs low enough and cannot fill the drain pit.

The parameters of the device depend on the intensity of use of the bath. An approximate one-time water consumption for a family of three is 60-70 liters. Accordingly, the drain tank must be larger than this parameter.

It is not necessary to remove such a drain from the steam room of the bath at a distance further than 2 m from the building itself.

Too close to the foundation can lead to an undesirable increase in its humidity. Excessive removal will create problems with the laying and functioning of the pipeline, because it needs to provide a good slope, insulation, etc.

Filtering material in the form of large rubble or brick fragments is poured to the bottom. A layer of expanded clay is also suitable. A layer of sand is poured over such material. The walls are lined with bricks with a gap to drain the liquid. You can bury a plastic barrel with a pre-knocked bottom.

Formation of a drain in the bathhouse

The floor in the bath with a do-it-yourself drain is done even when the foundation is being formed. This is due to the installation of sewer pipes, through which liquid is planned to be drained. The pipe is mounted directly into the base. Fixation is carried out using a damper tape. When laying pipes to the central sewer is implied, the work is carried out in prepared trenches below the freezing level of the soil.

Before you make a drain in the bath, you need to form a rough base. A pipe will pass through it. The base is created using boards fixed around the entire future perimeter of the room. The surface is covered with a film so that liquid does not escape from the concrete solution.

A damper tape is placed around the perimeter. She wraps around a part of the pipes that will go into the concrete. Reinforcement is being laid out. At the next stage, a preliminary concrete pouring of the drain in the bath is carried out. Its height will be 5-7 cm. It must have the correct slope in the given direction.

Cocurrent - a primitive but very effective way to organize a drain

After the first layer has solidified, it is necessary to fill the second level, which maintains a slope to drain the water under the bath. Experts recommend forming a certain cone directed towards the central hole. At the final stage, a stainless steel or ceramic drain grate is mounted.

Providing waterproofing

When solving the problem of how to make a drain in the bath floor, it is necessary to carry out reliable waterproofing. It is especially important when pipes are branched under the floor. The walls and base of concrete must be treated with antibacterial agents. Then sheets of roofing material are placed on the floor with a partial institution of them on the walls. Before that, you need to remember about the drain in the bath floor and cut a hole in the sheets for it.

A bituminous layer is applied to the roofing material, which will increase the protective properties of the material.

Now the finished floor surface is formed, which will rise slightly above the drain point. This drain of water in the bath is also used with wooden floors, because a reliable rigid concrete base has been formed for them.

It is not rational to make an individual drain for the floor in the bath for each room, therefore, for the remaining rooms, drainage systems are provided from the grooves that drain the liquid to the central drain under the bath.

How to make a drain in the bath with your own hands so that there is no smell: a step by step guide

Particular attention during construction should be paid to the drainage system, because the drain in the bath must be organized according to all the rules of hydraulics.

How to make a drain of water in the bath with your own hands, options, tips

The banya has always been considered a primordially Russian form of bathing and keeping one's body clean, as well as a great place to relax. Without it, it is even difficult to imagine a private house. The question - how to drain the water in the bath, arises at the beginning of construction, or rather, during the design of the building.

It is quite obvious that the bath is the place where there is a large amount of water, which, after use, must be taken away somewhere. Fans of the simplest solutions should know what consequences await them in the event of a simple draining of water into the space under the floor (pit):

the formation of dampness and mold;
the presence of a constant putrefactive odor;
the possibility of subsidence of the bath due to the destruction of the upper layer of soil by water.

In addition, a primitive drain device in a bath may not be possible due to a certain composition of the soil. A high content of clay in the soil can make it difficult to absorb moisture. Water constantly under the floor of the steam room will only accelerate the formation of the above problems. Therefore, the organization of water drainage from this room must be approached with special responsibility, then the building will serve you for many years.

There are the following options for organizing the drainage of water in the bath with your own hands:

construction of a drain tank;
diversion of water to the central sewer.

Bath floor installation

If you know how to properly drain the water from the bath, then you are even more aware that the arrangement of the floors in the bath must be approached with special responsibility. And no matter how high-quality the drain of water is, a bath is always super-high humidity, most of which is taken up by the floors.

The floors in the bath can be wooden or concrete. The choice depends on the building. In the case of a capital building, where year-round operation of a shower room, steam room, dressing room, rest room is planned, it is more expedient to equip concrete floors with reliable waterproofing.

In a bath built of wood, and which you are going to use only in the summer, it is quite enough to make wooden floors. This option is more economical, does not require the organization of a large amount of work.

Remember: Even a wooden floor impregnated with special protective compounds is exposed to high humidity and high temperatures. Therefore, be prepared for the fact that after a certain time it will have to be redone.

Concrete floor

The "pie" of the concrete floor consists of the following layers:

Tiled floor in a bath with a drain

compacted gravel;
concrete;
vapor barrier layer;
expanded polystyrene (as a heater);
waterproofing (polyethylene film);
concrete;
reinforced cement screed.

From above, this structure can be covered with ceramic tiles.

Wooden floor

Wooden floors in the bath can be leaking or not leaking. Non-leaking floors are installed on a concrete screed, which has a slope towards the water drain. Such floors dry for a long time, so they quickly rot.

The plate in the pit acts as a water seal

It is much easier to operate and install a leaky floor. To drain the water in the bath under a tree, in this case, the flooring from the boards is not nailed to the logs. It is simply laid, leaving a gap of 5 mm between the flooring boards. Water leaves the floor surface through these gaps, which also act as a kind of fan. These floorings can be removed and dried at any time.

In the case of a leaking floor, organization is necessary hermetic pit under the bath, from which then water will be drained through a pipe, for example, into a drain pit. Also, in the pit, it will be necessary to make a water seal to prevent unpleasant odors from entering the room.

Bath drain device

For the arrangement of high-quality drainage of water in the bath, special attention is paid to the following indicators:

The capacity of the drain system is determined by the number of people visiting the steam room and the frequency of visits. The volume of the drain pit or well depends on this.
The level of groundwater passage at the construction site of the bath.
Soil composition.

Guided by these indicators, it is necessary to determine how to properly drain the water from the bath, which design to use, and what features it will have: volume, depth, materials, fasteners.

Drain tank with filter bottom

The purpose of any tank (well or pit) with a filter bottom is to clean wastewater from contamination and retain microorganisms. Then the water is purified in the soil layer. Filtering materials can be: brick fragments, sand or crushed stone.

If the bath is regularly used by 3-4 people, then the most optimal dimensions of the pit will be: 1-1.5 m in diameter, depth - 2 m. Its shape can be round or square. The preferred option is the cylindrical shape of the tank. In this case, the pressure on its walls is uniform, which means that repairs will be required much less frequently.

Cesspool for a bath - digging a pit

A do-it-yourself drain pit for a bath is dug at a distance of 3-5 meters from the bath. It cannot be located closer because of the risk of destruction of the foundation and the unpleasant smell of drains. With a more distant location from the bath, additional costs for pipes are inevitable, the necessary slope of which is quite difficult to make at a great distance.

If the soil is strong and does not crumble, then it is not necessary to strengthen the walls and bottom of the drain tank. In this case, after digging a pit, layers of gravel, expanded clay, broken bricks and sand are simply laid on its bottom.

In most cases, the walls of the drain well are reinforced. For this, concrete rings are used (not a cheap option), old tires or bricks that are lined with walls. Metal or plastic barrels without a bottom are also widely used. The upper edge of the drain tank should be 30-40 cm below ground level. From above, the well is covered with a concrete or metal cover, which is covered with earth.

An example of organizing water drainage from a bath using car tires

For a drain device in the bath, you can dig a channel through which water will flow by gravity into the drain well. But the best option for how to drain water from a bath with your own hands will be the use of plastic, asbestos, ceramic or, in extreme cases, metal pipes with a diameter of 50 or 100 mm. For the drain pipe, a trench is also dug with a depth of 50 centimeters or more (depending on the freezing of the soil). The pipe is laid at a slope of 20 mm per meter of pipeline.

The organization of water flow inside the bath is thought out during the design period. The simplest, most affordable and labor-intensive option can be sloped floor. Water in this case flows down towards the slope, then it is drained through the pipe into the drain pit.

This is important: Arrangement of a drain well is possible only with a deep passage of groundwater. Otherwise, the reservoir is filled more with groundwater than with effluents from the steam room.

Do-it-yourself arrangement of draining water in the bath with the help of a drain pit has its drawbacks. From time to time, the pit should be cleaned with a cesspool machine. This entails additional costs. The most important thing is that it is not always possible to place a tank for draining wastewater in a place accessible to the car. Plus, the filter material at the bottom of the well also requires periodic cleaning.

As another option for draining water from the bath will be septic tank. It will be especially relevant if there is a toilet in the bath, since "black" drains require much better cleaning.

Another scheme for draining wastewater from the steam room is shown in the photo. After filtering in the tank, wastewater is discharged into a drainage ditch.

Drainage of water from the bath into the drainage ditch after preliminary filtration in a barrel

Draining water from the bath into the central sewer

For areas with well-developed infrastructure, the best way bath drains water will be diverted to the central sewer. Keep in mind that the work on the drainage device into the centralized system is carried out before laying the flooring.

In the place where the floor slope is located, a gutter is installed, made of modified PVC, capable of withstanding maximum temperatures. The slope of the gutter should be directed towards the sewer pipe.

Do-it-yourself draining in the bath into the central sewer is possible only after obtaining permission from the management company and completing the following documents:

for carrying out land and installation work, it is necessary to conclude an agreement with a design organization whose activities are confirmed by certificates;
written consent of your neighbors to carry out these works.

On the technical side, in order to obtain written permission, it is necessary to install a manhole at the point of connection to the Central Committee.

If the room has several points for draining water into the central sewer (steam room, shower room, swimming pool), then each of them should be equipped with a water seal. It can be a drain siphon of various shapes. The water plug, which is constantly present in this device, prevents the penetration of an unpleasant odor from the sewer system into the room.
For the same purposes, set sewer ventilation system. It is a plastic pipe with a diameter of 50 mm, brought to the roof of the bath.

Now you know how to properly drain water from a bath - one of the important stages in the construction of a steam room.

Draining water in the bath with your own hands: how to do it right, device

How to properly drain the water in the bath with your own hands. How does poor water drainage affect the structure. The device of floors in a bath. Which one to choose: wooden or concrete?

How to make a do-it-yourself drain of water in a bath: simple solutions for a complex problem

All owners of their own baths in their backyard can confirm that the main task in their construction is the correct organization of the outflow of drain water, that is, in fact, sewage. Not only comfort when washing, the absence of unpleasant odors, but also the safety of the entire building from exposure to excessive moisture depends on how high-quality and efficient the drainage system you have chosen will be. In fact, its overall durability depends on how competently the drain for the bath is planned and built, and this is not at all unimportant. Moreover, the use of a drain in a bath should be as simple and convenient as possible, therefore it is worth considering this issue very carefully so that later you do not have to redo everything from the very beginning.

A simple drain device in the bath: general information or where to start

Like it or not, a bathhouse is just such a place where water is an absolutely integral part of the building. Here you want - you don’t want, but all parts of the structure one way or another come into contact with moisture throughout the entire period of operation. Moreover, what is especially important is that both walls and roofing from the outside, as well as all internal coatings and materials, will come into contact with moisture. In order to prevent wood, clay, metal, etc. from quickly becoming unusable, you first need to figure out how to properly drain the water from the bath so that it dries completely at the moments when it is not used, that is, in the intervals between washing .

Like it or not, the whole washing procedure, as well as its safety, depends on the two most important indicators. In the bath, ventilation and sewerage should be perfectly designed and implemented. Moreover, the first is no more important than the second, since washing in a bathhouse where fungus breeds, wood rots, and billions of microorganisms left after the last wash live is not only unpleasant, but even life-threatening.

If this moment is not thought out in advance, even during construction, then soon you can expect a lot of problems, for example, emergency repair of the foundation, cleaning walls and floors from fungus, rotting and replacing boards, and so on, you can list for a long time, but it is much better to avoid it altogether similar. Usually, water is drained just from under the washing room and steam room, and moisture can flow both into a special designated place outside the walls of the room, and into the pit immediately below it. It is in order to figure out how to make the water drain in the bath as efficient as possible, you need to find out a few simple points, on which the choice of design will depend.

Find out what type of soil is under your bath on the site, this is important in order to understand whether the moisture itself will go into the soil, soaking into it like a natural filter.
You also need to understand exactly where the drainage channel will be located, and the sewer pipe will also be laid. That is, you need to mentally outline the site, estimate its area, and imagine a pipe or a simple drainage system.
It is important to find out how close the branch of the centralized sewer system is, and you have a real opportunity to connect to it.
It also does not hurt to evaluate your own strengths. It is worth thinking ten times and weighing everything before taking on such a rather complicated job, and there is no experience and self-confidence, it is better to use the services of professionals.

How to drain water in a bath: design features and important nuances

As it has already become clear, it is precisely on how correctly, competently and efficiently the drainage system in your bath will be made, and its durability will actually depend, as well as functionality. Many rely on the natural outflow of water, making special gaps in the floorboards, and allowing the water to drain freely, gradually soaking into the ground. Our ancestors built in a similar way, but there are some nuances here.

In no case can you count on the fact that the surface of the soil will absorb everything, without exception, runoff. No matter how much you fight, the moisture will still slowly “grind” the foundation, walls and even the very surface of the soil, which over time can simply sink under the building.
The smell inside the bath, even with well-made ventilation, when choosing a free flow of water, can leave much to be desired, but no one wants to bathe among the miasma of decaying skin particles left over from the last time.

The only time when such an option is acceptable is when the bath will be operated only a couple of times during the summer, and even then, for a family, no more than two, in extreme cases three, people. In all other cases, you will have to seriously think about how to properly drain the bath so that everything is in the best possible way. It will be necessary to take into account many points, and there are several options for sewer systems and drainage systems, so you should be prepared for the new if you decide to do everything yourself. But in this case, you can be completely sure of the results of labor, because everything is done with your own hands, therefore, reliably and for centuries.

Do-it-yourself simple or complex drain in the bath: a step-by-step guide for different options

Of course, the pouring floor in the bath, that is, the complete absence of any sewer system under the bath, except for ordinary rubble, is the simplest solution and making it easier than ever, but there are just a lot of shortcomings, and only summer will have to use such a structure, warm season. Let's figure out how to make a drain in the bath with your own hands, and the reasonableness and deliberation of your decisions, as well as the very location of the bath, will play a significant role in this. Moreover, it is worth evaluating everything in stages, so as not to return later, and not to redo it after yourself.

1. The floor in the bath and its device: where all the water will drain

If there are several such pipes or gutters in your design, they should all converge straight to a drainage well or septic tank, where water will be absorbed into the ground.
Gutters for such structures, contrary to idle talk, are best taken from asbestos cement, laminated or galvanized iron, in order to avoid rapid corrosion and premature damage.
If the drain gutter is laid between the steam room and the washing room, then it will be possible to get by with one channel, which will significantly save time and resources.
The best pipes for a sewer device: do-it-yourself drain into a bath
Internal bath sewerage involves the use of plastic, fairly strong, but non-pressure pipes, with a wall thickness of not more than three and a half millimeters.
It is worth making sure that all shaped elements are within five to ten centimeters, this will be the best.
Do not forget about the seals, and it is better to buy the highest quality, so that you do not have to regret it later.
It should be understood that the system should ideally have a single branch, in extreme cases two or three, but by no means more.

It should be understood that external sewer outlets must be made of PVC pipes with a diameter of approximately five centimeters. Moreover, they should be laid no higher than the freezing point of the soil, otherwise your drainage system will last exactly until the onset of frost.

2. Water lock and its absence: choose what is more suitable

In order to prevent the sewage miasma from reaching those who bathe in the bathhouse, it is worth thinking about a water seal device, that is, a special elbow that will prevent polluted air from entering the washing rooms. Moreover, there are two options in which the shutter itself can be made, or you can solve the problem by a different method. So, to organize the shutter, you need to make a special ladder, to which the pipe is attached, which does not reach the bottom by ten or fifteen centimeters, which will be a kind of lock. The water standing inside will not allow the smell to penetrate inside, which, in fact, we wanted.

The second option is no less effective, but much easier to implement. Moreover, it is worth thinking about its implementation even during construction in order to make life easier for yourself.

The basement of the building should be raised by two or three bricks, it is important not to overdo it, as this can be easily done, and then lay the drainage pipe to the very septic tank or drainage well.
Indoors, it is to this pipe that the knee should be attached so that its upper part is a couple of centimeters below the level of the floor itself.
Further, most often the floor is covered with a cement-expanded clay mixture, after which a regular screed is made, with a certain slope, which should not be forgotten.

Before pouring the screed, exactly above the drain hole, that is, in fact, just above the knee, an ordinary rubber ball is laid, which will work as a valve. Make sure that he comfortably lays down in a flooded and dried-out screed afterwards, can freely leave his “nest”, and return in the same way. It will simply let water through, but lying down in its place will prevent unpleasant odors from entering inside the washroom or steam room.

How to make a drain for a bath with your own hands: options for sewer solutions

As you can see, do-it-yourself draining in the bathhouse, a photo report, as evidenced quite eloquently, will not be so difficult to do, and if you yourself took up the construction, then you will definitely cope with this task with a bang. Indeed, there can be quite a lot of options for sewer schemes, and your task is to choose exactly the one that will be the simplest, as well as effective in this particular case. The thing is that an ordinary cesspool, located just under a steam room or a washing room, at least does not much correspond to sanitary standards and the demands of modern people, therefore it is worth taking care of the sewerage.

Simple solutions: connect to a centralized sewer

The path of least resistance, as always, is the most acceptable, it is already clear to every person in the crazy modern world. Therefore, if it is possible to connect the drain of your own bath to a centralized sewerage system, be sure to do it.

Of course, you will have to pay for the services of public utilities, but you won’t have to think about where to dig a few more cesspools after they gradually become unusable. It is worth considering this option, if it is real, since outside the city it is rare to find a centralized sewage disposal.

Well-well, don't let the water get drunk: do-it-yourself drain for a bath

To begin with, it is worthwhile to understand that organizing a drain well on your own site will require some professional skills, as well as the acquisition of additional resources, for example, bricks or special concrete circles.

Pay attention to what experts say about drain wells. This structure must be absolutely reliable, and the total volume must not be less than three cubic meters, otherwise its effectiveness will be in question.

A special pit is dug in the ground, approximately three to four standard reinforced concrete circles.
The walls can also be overlaid with bricks, if the circles, for example, have nothing to deliver.
All the gaps between the walls and the ground must be filled with high-quality screenings, stones, you can dump construction waste there. The main requirement is that everything be well compacted.
The bottom of the pit is concreted, and for reliability it is also smeared with liquid glass.
From above, the pit is closed with a special reinforced concrete pipe, in which a hatch and a hole for ventilation are specially provided.

It should be understood that the ventilation pipe must protrude above the ground by at least sixty centimeters, otherwise it simply will not work. Moreover, everything around, except for the hatch, through which the pit will be cleaned, is covered with soil. You should definitely make sure that a sewage truck can drive up to your pit, otherwise you will have to suffer later. You should also know that you can really save on sewage if you use special chemicals for cesspools in winter and use bacteria in summer. All this can be purchased at the store, just ask.

Among other things, a well of such a plan can be made filtering, that is, not requiring cleaning. To do this, it is dug a little deeper, and its bottom is first covered with clay mortar, and on top it is covered with either gravel or expanded clay. Dirty water from such a well will gradually go into the ground, but this takes time, because this option, again, is only suitable for a small family, for example, of three people.

How to make a drain in the bath with your own hands

The banya has always been considered a purely Russian form of pastime. She served for bathing, helped keep her body clean and played the role of an outlet for the people. Nowadays it is hard to imagine a house in which it would not be. Many owners who do not have a bath are thinking about building one. One of the questions that arises in connection with the construction is: how to make a drain in the bath with your own hands? After all, a bath is a place where you simply cannot do without the presence of water. And if there is a sufficient amount of liquid, then it is logical that it needs to be put somewhere. Someone might say that the easiest way is when the water drains into a pit, a free space under the floor. But, we want to upset you - this is fraught with the fact that mold will form on the floor, there will always be a smell of rot in the room, and most importantly, the bath can sink, as water will destroy the top layer of soil. And not in all cases it will be possible to arrange it, due to the fact that the soil may have a high content of clay, which does not absorb moisture.

That is why it is important to know how to properly organize a drain for a bath with your own hands and approach this work with special responsibility. In this scenario, your drain will serve for many years. This article will consider several options for how to make a drain in the bath with your own hands. This guide will help you get the job done.

How are the floors in the bath

If we talk about a properly made drain for a bath, then it is impossible not to touch on the topic of arranging the floor. This issue must be approached with no less responsibility. It is worth noting that no matter how well you make a drain for a bath, this is a room with super high humidity. And it is the floor that takes on the lion's share of this moisture.

You should know that the floor in the bath can be made of either wood or concrete. This choice directly depends on what kind of building itself. If this is a capital building, where a shower room, a steam room, a dressing room and a rest room will be used all year round, then it is better to make a reliable concrete floor with reinforced waterproofing. And if this is a wooden bath, and you plan to use it only in the summer, then it is rational to make a wooden floor. This will help you save a lot of money and reduce the amount of work you need.

How is the concrete floor in the bath

If we talk about concrete coating, then it is more reliable and durable. This floor consists of:

compacted gravel;
layer of concrete;
vapor barrier layer;
a layer of expanded polystyrene as a heater;
waterproofing layer (polyethylene film);
another layer of concrete;
reinforced cement screed;
facing layer (ceramic tiles, etc.).

How is the wooden floor in the bath

As for wooden floors, they can be of two types: solid (non-leaking) and non-solid (leaking). A solid floor is laid on top of a concrete screed. At the same time, it is made so that the surface has a slight slope towards the equipped drain. The boards are fitted close to each other, so there are no gaps. The disadvantage of such a coating for a bath is that water stagnates on the floor, dries for a long time, and the boards quickly begin to undergo a rotting process. It is much better to use a non-continuous floor.

What is its advantage? It is easier to use and will last you longer. The thing is that the boards are fixed not close, but at a small distance from each other. This gap is 5 mm. It is enough so that the water does not stagnate on the surface and more easily goes to the drain. In addition, these slots serve as a fan, drying the floor.

For everything to function correctly, you need to organize a sealed pit under the room. From it, through the pipe, water will outflow into the prepared drain pit. In this pit, it will be necessary to make a water seal so that unpleasant odors do not get inside the bath. Having dealt with the floors, you can figure out how to make a drain in the sink of the bath and other rooms.

How to make a drain in the bath

In order to properly equip the drainage of water, you need to pay special attention to the following indicators:

The power of the drain system. It must be chosen taking into account how many people will visit the steam room, and how often. In addition, this indicator also affects the volume of the well or pit.
The level of groundwater in the place where the bath is built.
The composition and quality of the soil.

Taking into account these indicators, you need to decide how to equip the drain for the bath, what design to use, and what are its features. So you can immediately find out the capacity, depth, material and fastenings. First, you need to make a water collection system inside the bath under a non-solid floor. Let's find out how to do it.

Draining in the bath with your own hands step by step guide

All work is carried out at the stage of foundation construction. It can be tape or columnar. The process is the following:

If you are laying a drain pipe, then after a dug foundation pit, in the middle of the space under the floor, you need to dig a hole.

From this pit, you need to lay a trench into which the pipe will be installed. It will drain water from the pit to a reservoir or sewer. It is important to install the pipe with a slope of 3 or 4 degrees.

On the installed beams, you need to fix the boards that will make up the floor. The distance between them is from 5 to 7 mm. This is the gap that will be enough for a good job. The thickness of the boards is at least 2 cm. Now your floor is ready.

As a rule, boards may not be nailed to the floor beams. For ease of use, they are made removable. They need to be fastened together with a beam and laid on top. Everything is assembled into shields so that the connecting beam is between the floor beams. A floor made in this way is better exploited, since it can be removed and dried in the air.

Create a waste tank

Now that you have created a liquid collection system, you need to figure out where to drain the drain through the pipes. The first option is a drain tank, which will have a filter bottom. Its purpose is to clean the drain from pollution and retain microorganisms. After that, the water through the bottom goes into the ground, re-cleaning. Various materials can be used as a filter. This is sand, and pieces of bricks and even rubble. If a family of 3–4 people will use the bath, then the best size of the well is 2 m deep with a diameter of 1–1.5 m. The shape of the well can be round or square. Still, it is better to choose a cylindrical version, since the pressure on the walls will be uniform. Then it will not need to be repaired often.

It is important to consider that the well should be located 3 to 5 meters from the bath. If it is brought closer, there is a risk of unpleasant odors and destruction of the foundation. And when the well is located very far, more pipes will be needed. The figure shows how this scheme can be implemented.

Most often, the walls of the well are additionally strengthened. The most expensive option is concrete rings. But there are simpler ones, for example, car tires. As a compromise option - brickwork. In addition, you can use a metal or plastic barrel that does not have a bottom. It is important to close the well with a concrete or metal lid and sprinkle it with earth.

Draining water into the sewer

If your site has a central sewer, then everything is much simpler. All that is needed is to properly arrange the floor in the bath, insulate it and organize a drain to the central sewer pipe. As a drain, pipes laid horizontally at an angle to the pipe will be installed. They will receive water that can get inside through the siphon and the drain body.

PVC pipes are laid in the floor at an angle to the riser. It is recommended to fill the trench with sand in advance and compact it. And already on the prepared pillow to install pipes. The difference should be 2 cm by 1 m. The pipes are led to the riser or outside the bath.

Drainage of water into the cesspool

Another option for draining water from a bath is to make a drain into a cesspool. This option has some disadvantages, but it is the simplest. We will not consider the phased progress of work, since the principle is already clear. The simple fact is that the water from the bath will go out through the pipe system, directly into the cesspool. All that will be required of you is to pump out the contents as it fills up.

Summing up

Draining for a bath is a very important stage of construction work. It is important to give this process enough attention and time. After all, if you do something wrong, then all your work may be in vain. To avoid this, it is important to tune in in advance to equip the drain in the bath with high quality. You need to think in advance which option of water drainage to choose. After all, if your area does not have a sewerage system, then you will have to drain into a cesspool or well. In addition, pay attention to the quality of consumables: pipes, siphon and drain hole. Then your drain will last a long time and reliably.

Do-it-yourself drain in the bath: a step-by-step guide

How to make a drain in the bath with your own hands The bath has always been considered a purely Russian pastime. She served for bathing, helped keep her body clean and played the role of an outlet for