Having installed a reliable sash between the street and the house, regardless of whether it is Chinese or European safe type, you definitely need to take care of the issue how to insulate the entrance metal door to the cold.
Choosing a metal door with insulation
Whether you live in an apartment or a house, your home needs a secure front door. It can be an inexpensive Chinese-made iron leaf, or an armored sheet with fireproof and bulletproof layers, the main thing is to choose a model whose cavities are filled with insulation. At the same time, it is extremely important to ask in advance what kind of thermal insulation is contained inside the sash, since very often honeycomb cardboard is used as a heater. The strength of this material is high to the same extent as the thermal conductivity. Very often, the internal filling of a steel door is made of thin foam, which also does not contribute to high-quality insulation.
Basalt thermal insulation is considered the best option today. Of course, with a poor-quality arrangement inside the sash, the mineral fiber will eventually settle under its own weight. But professionally made metal doors with such a filler, fixed over the entire area with the help of horizontal ribs, will serve for a long time without the formation of freezing areas. There are also models with sawdust filling the internal cavity between the metal sheets. This solution significantly reduces the thermal conductivity of the street door.
But most often you have to buy budget options, with a completely absent insulation, as well as without an internal panel, or upholstered on the inside with tightly fitted boards or timber. In this case, you need to look for options on how to insulate the front metal door yourself. As a material to fill the space between the stiffeners, foam rubber can be used, which is best used in combination with batting, as well as polyurethane foam or, in extreme cases, polystyrene foam. Thermal insulation can be performed both from the inside and outside.
The simplest ways to insulate the front metal door
There are several ways to fasten thermal insulation on the inner surface of a metal door, but whichever you choose, you should definitely prepare the inner lining. It can be plywood, fiberboard, MDF or even a sheet of plastic. Next, pay attention to what material the frame and sash stiffeners are made of. Most likely, it will be a square profile, on which it is most convenient to attach the inner lining. If the door frame is made of a corner, it is best to do thermal insulation from the outside by making a special frame of rails for this. True, in this case outer skin better to choose based on appearance, that is, it must be a decorative material.
But back to how to insulate the iron front door from the inside. Let's say foam is chosen as thermal insulation. To fix it, we need glue. First, according to the dimensions of the door, we prepare the inner lining, sawing holes on it for locks and a peephole (if the cutouts should be complex shape, processed with a file). Next, we cut off fragments of the desired size from the expanded polystyrene sheet based on the space of the sections between the stiffeners. We apply glue with dotted lines along the perimeter of the foam cuts, which are then tightly pressed against the door leaf.
The next step is installation. inner lining. We have already prepared a sheet for this purpose, all the slots in it have been made, it remains only to fix it. Since it will be necessary to fit on the frame and door stiffeners, it is necessary to pre-drill holes by determining the fastener points. Drilling is carried out immediately through the skin, so that later, by attaching it, not to lose the location of the holes. We use standard self-tapping screws for installation. For decorative purposes, we process the fixed sheet at the edges, slightly rounding them.
When laying insulation, mounting foam can be used as a fixation, which is applied not only to the inner surface of the sash, but also to the side planes of the stiffeners.
Thermal insulation of the front door from the outside is carried out in a similar way. The only difference is that there is no frame and stiffening ribs from profiles, between which insulation can be placed. Therefore, for high-quality fastening of the material, it is necessary to first install a limiter - a frame made of wooden slats. This design is screwed with self-tapping screws directly to the door leaf, for which it is necessary to drill holes for the screws in the surface of the sash. We carry out one big sheet. Then the entrance street insulated door is covered from the outside decorative trim. You can even paste over or upholster with a dense fabric or leatherette.
What should be the entrance street insulated door
In anticipation of winter, it is necessary to insulate not only the door leaves, but also the boxes. Well, if they are already purchased with thermal insulation, in the absence of such, it is recommended to place the filler inside the door frame at the installation stage in the opening. Most the best option- fill the void in the profile or channel mortar in which sawdust is mixed. However, as mentioned above, most often we are offered inexpensive metal doors with a complete lack of thermal insulation as economy class models. And, if it was not possible to insulate the sash and the box during the installation process, you still need to find an opportunity, and subsequently fill the voids with insulation.
The best for this purpose is some loose filler. It can be expanded vermiculite, expanded clay, and even ordinary ones will significantly reduce the thermal conductivity of the door. To install the insulation, it is enough to make holes in the top of the box. The main thing is that there are no slots or slots at the bottom, in order to avoid spillage of the filler. As alternative mounting foam or, in other words, polyurethane foam can be used. To fill this sealant, holes must be made along the entire height in the box at some intervals, filling the profile from the bottom up. The only drawback of this method is the inability to fully control the quality of filling the cavities and the need to close the box at the end of the work with decorative trim.
Cold in housing penetrates not only in places where there is no thermal insulation, but also with drafts that occur when there are the slightest cracks. These appear when the front door does not fit snugly against the frame, which in most cases is characteristic of metal doors. You can solve the problem on your own: if a gap is detected due to increased air draft, it is enough to place a seal between the door and the box. Can be bought at a hardware store or hardware store foam strip with a self-adhesive backing, or manually cut the foam rubber and fix it with PVA. Also, porous rubber, synthetic winterizer, felt and even leatherette are quite suitable as a sealant. The latter is best used with any of the other materials listed, as a reinforcing wrap, that is, wrapping a strip of leatherette in a long roller with foam rubber or synthetic winterizer inside.
The closer the cold, the more apartment owners worry about drafts and the temperature in their home. According to statistics, about 30 percent of heat energy is “lost” due to cracks and insufficient thermal insulation. Most problem areas - This windows and doors. The first one is easy to deal with: metal-plastic windows with double glazing protect the apartment from drafts and frost. But how can you prevent the ingress of cold from the front door? This issue is especially relevant for those people who have metal doors installed. Everyone knows that metal has excellent thermal conductivity. And this means that valuable heat disappears without a trace. And although an iron door protects your house from robbers and thieves much better than a wooden one, it cannot cope with frost. To improve insulation, you need to take care of front door insulation.
What is needed to strengthen the iron front door?
The main problem faced by the owners of apartments and houses is that this task seems to be very difficult. In fact create an extra layer on the finished door is quite Just. Even a person who does not often do this kind of thing will be able to cope with this work. In addition, no insulation is required. special tools and materials. Everything you need can be found in the nearest hardware store. If you don't know how to insulate iron door then prepare tools from this list.
- drill,
- pencil,
- screwdriver,
- electric jigsaw,
- roulette.
And of course you will be required the following materials:
- Fiberboard, MDF or chipboard (depending on personal preference),
- sealant,
- insulation (polystyrene foam, polystyrene or mineral wool),
- self-tapping screws,
- assembly foam,
- liquid Nails.
How to insulate an iron door from the inside: instructions
Most easy way to create warm home and cozy atmosphere and forever get rid of the cold - insulate the door from the inside. First you need a metal door take off the hinges. It will be much easier and more convenient to do this work if the door takes horizontal position. The sheet of metal is always fixed with self-tapping screws. Carefully unscrew them and examine inner space. With a tape measure and a pencil remove all dimensions and write them down. This must be done in advance to prepare the heat. insulating materials. Inside you will notice profile pipes, which divide the space into small cells. It is this design that makes the door durable. But you can drill small holes in the pipes to fill them mounting foam. Pick up a drill, a thickness slightly greater than the thickness of the foam canister tube. Then carefully lay out the blanks of heat-insulating material, pre-cut under desired shape. Make sure that access to the lock and peephole remains free.
Insulation is best attached to liquid Nails to ensure its immobility. But cracks, formed between different pieces of material, you need seal with mounting foam. Leave no gaps for maximum effect.
After finishing the rough work, you can start finishing. The lining of even expensive doors is very often not made from a solid sheet of fiberboard. We recommend that you replace the questionable material with a new and thicker fiberboard sheet (do not forget to fit it to the right dimensions). It is attached with ordinary screws.
And only after that you can proceed to the final assembly. A metal sheet returns to its place and fixed with self-tapping screws. Then carefully inspect the resulting door. All possible cracks must be sealed.
How to insulate an iron front door with your own hands?
But it is not always possible to insulate the door from the inside. In this case, you need to take care of the conservation of heat energy another way. insulation attached not inside, but outside. How to do it? Indeed, in this part there are no recesses for laying insulating materials.
This method will take a little more time and effort. Need to start with manufacturing special door frames. Remove the door itself from its hinges and carefully measure its sides. The frame will require ordinary wooden slats . They should be even (curved and deformed will not work). It is desirable to use materials with a thickness of about 20 millimeters, and a width of no more than 30 millimeters.
Created wooden frame should go around the perimeter of the door itself. Increase strength designs will help cross rails. You can fix it with ordinary screws. Thus, you yourself create an internal cavity. It can fill foam or mineral wool. Insulation is best mounted on the same liquid Nails.
All gaps between pieces of foam (or other insulation) it is necessary blow with mounting foam. Try not to miss even small gaps. Leave the door until the foam is completely dry.
Now gotta get busy finishing, which will hide the insulating materials. If you want to learn how to insulate a metal door, then take a sheet of fiberboard or MDF and fit it to the size of the door. This layer must be fixed with special care. To do this, first try on the sheet to the door, and only then start screwing in the screws. We recommend making holes in the metal in advance so that the screws can be screwed in without much effort.
How to insulate an iron door in a private house?
The problem of a private house lies in the fact that between the door and the street there is not a single barrier. IN apartment buildings the front door separates the entrance from the cold and frost. The temperature in it is always a few degrees higher. And this means that heat and cold do not collide with two sides of the same sheet of metal. In a private house the iron door is often covered with frost. The thing is that a positive temperature is kept in the hallway, when a negative temperature prevails on the street. It will not be possible to get rid of this problem with the help of a heater. Best way save heat energy in such a situation - make a small "dressing room", for example, glaze the veranda.
How to insulate an iron front door: video
A high-quality front door reliably protects an apartment or house from drafts, heat loss, extraneous odors and sounds. Modern new designs of entrance doors made of metal or wood are immediately insulated and reinforced during the manufacturing process. But what to do if there is no desire or means to replace the old front door, which does not have high sound and heat-saving properties?
It's simple - the door can be visually ennobled and insulated with high quality without large financial losses.
Reason #1
If the front door is old, then it is quite possible that the insulation located between the canvases is damaged. For example, mineral wool high humidity starts to rot.
Reason #2
Gaps and gaps between the door leaf and the frame. This problem can be caused by the frame being skewed due to improper installation, high humidity, or frequent use of the door. Also, cracks appear due to deformation of the web, shift or damage to hinged fittings.
Reason #3
Gaps between the door frame and the opening. If the doorway is larger than the box, then all gaps are sealed with mounting foam. If the foam is not applied in a continuous layer, the design may have low heat-saving properties.
Restoration and insulation of the door are carried out in several stages.
- Fastening the seal around the entire perimeter of the door frame.
- Sealing gaps and cracks between the frame and the door leaf.
- Checking hinged and locking fittings.
- Upholstery and insulation door leaf.
- Sealing holes between the box and the opening.
Required Materials
insulation
Seals
This type of material is located around the entire perimeter of the door leaf and, when the door is closed, seals the structure with high quality.
Seals are divided into several types according to the location of the sealing ribs: single, double and triple. The more additional layers the material has, the better it protects against cold and noise.
Seals can be attached to the ends of the web with self-tapping screws or a self-adhesive base. The first type of fastening is better and more reliable, designed for high loads.
Upholstery
In order for the restored door to become outwardly aesthetic, it is recommended to upholster it with a material that does not allow moisture and air to pass through. For these purposes, eco-leather, leatherette, genuine leather are suitable.
In order for the upholstery to hold firmly to the door leaf, special nails are required. You can also complement the design of the door with a special wire that is attached between the nails and creates a pattern on the front surface of the leaf.
Wooden lining, MDF board (8 mm) with one-sided lamination. These materials can be used for interior decoration doors.
Tools
- Angle grinder with a cutter for cutting a groove on the door leaf.
- Screwdriver.
- Hammer.
- Stapler with a set of staples.
- Roulette.
- Scissors.
- Mounting foam.
Preparatory work
Before starting work, it is required to determine exactly what materials will be used to restore the door. If the inner side of the door leaf is made of MDF, then you need to purchase or order a sheet of material of the right size in advance.
If the door leaf has settled under its own weight, then it is advisable to twist the hinges with new self-tapping screws or completely replace the hinged fittings.
It is advisable to carefully check the perimeter between the box and the wall opening for sealing, if necessary, remove the old foam and foam the cracks in a new way.
If the door is severely deformed due to moisture, then it is possible to process the ends with a planer so that when opening and closing the canvas freely enters door frame.
During restoration, you can replace the door lock, peephole, chain,
Mounting the seal
Step 1
Determine the size of the gap between the box and the canvas. If the gap around the entire perimeter is more than a few millimeters, then the groove for the seal does not need to be cut.
Step 2
Cut the sealant into the desired size fragments. If the tape is self-adhesive, then you need to glue it around the entire perimeter of the door frame, closer to the outside of the door leaf.
Step 3
If the seal is made of silicone, then you need to attach it to the ends with a stapler. This fastening is much stronger and more durable than sealing with self-adhesive material.
Step 4
If the gaps between the canvas and the box are not too large, but a draft is felt, you can use a grinder to cut a groove 1-2 mm deep and 3-4 mm wide. A seal is attached to this groove; a two-layer or three-layer material can be used.
Insulation and restoration of the door leaf
These devices are designed to seal the gaps between the door and the jambs.
Step 1. Leatherette is cut into 4 strips, 10 cm wide. The length of the strips is equal to the width and height of the door leaf + a margin of 5 cm on each side.
Step 2 A strip of leatherette is applied to the edge of the door with the wrong side. Every 10-15 cm, the material is attached to the canvas with a stapler or upholstery nails.
Step 3 Strips are attached around the entire perimeter of the door. Near the hinges, the material must be cut in a special way: the roller should not interfere with the closing and opening of the door. To prevent the roller from bulging, you can cut off excess material around the edges. Finishing installation the roller is carried out after the insulation of the door leaf.
Foamed polyethylene roller, which must be inserted around the entire perimeter of the door into a strip of leatherette
Door leaf insulation
You can upholster the door with leatherette both from the inside and from outer side. Also, the inner fabric can be laminated MDF board. The color of the material can be chosen as desired. The canvas is fastened with self-tapping screws around the perimeter. It is also important to pre-cut holes for the handle, peephole or internal lock, if any, on the door.
Most often, restoration is carried out using eco-leather or leatherette upholstery. It is not difficult, if desired, this process can be done independently.
Step 1. Mounting on the insulation sheet. It is important that the size of the insulation on all sides be 10 cm larger than the dimensions of the door leaf. Most often, ordinary foam rubber is used for these purposes, having a thickness of 2-3 cm. With the help of a stapler, foam rubber is aimed at the door leaf at small intervals.
Step 2 Excess material is trimmed around the perimeter of the door. The stock is needed so that there are no problems with fixing the insulation: it is easier to cut off the extra edges than to accurately shoot a sheet of material cut to size.
Step 3 Additionally, it is recommended to attach a batting over the foam rubber. This material will improve the heat and sound insulation of the door structure.
Step 4 Leatherette is cut with a margin: 4 cm on each side. It is necessary to nail the material to the canvas with insulation from the middle. This fastening method minimizes skew and wrinkling of the material.
Step 6 Fastening leatherette along the edges of the canvas. It is necessary to pull the fabric strongly to avoid the appearance of bumps.
Step 7 Leatherette needs to be carefully fixed around the entire perimeter of the door. The gap between the location of the nails is 5-6 cm. It is advisable to drive in the nails at the same level and at an equal distance.
Step 8 Final fastening of the roller. The protruding ends of the fabric are folded into a tube and nailed. It is desirable that the roller be the same size on all sides of the door. This will improve her appearance.
Step 9 Handle attachment. In the place where the fittings are located, you need to make a hole in the leatherette, and then attach the handle using self-tapping screws.
Step 10 Ennobling the appearance of the door. To prevent the canvas from looking too simple, you can decorate it with nails, wire or fishing line. To do this, markings are applied to leatherette: mesh, squares or others. geometric figures. Nails are driven into the corners of the figures, serving as fasteners for wire or fishing line. The wire is stretched between the nails, visually dividing the canvas into fragments. It is important to observe the geometry of the drawing.
Video - Insulation of the front wooden door
There are several ways to insulate a metal structure: by installing an internal or external insulation.
Internal insulation
Doors in which metal sheets are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws are best insulated with foam, isofix, polystyrene foam. You can also purchase special acoustic panels that will reduce the penetration of noise from outside.
Stage 1. At internal insulation the lining of the canvas located inside the apartment is removed. Opening the outer panel is impractical and dangerous; the design may lose its former strength and reliability.
Stage 2. After the casing is removed, you need to unscrew the screws holding the metal sheet. The old insulation located between the stiffeners must be removed. new material it is necessary to cut into fragments required in size and place between the partitions of the frame.
Stage 3. The metal sheet is attached to the old place. It is advisable to use new screws. The door upholstery can be restored by replacing it with a new one or using old material. It all depends on the condition and type of canvas.
Video - Insulation of a metal door from the inside
With this method, the insulation is attached on top of the metal sheet, due to which the thickness of the door increases markedly.
Stage 1. Installation of a frame made of wooden blocks along the perimeter of the door from the inside. Beams with a thickness of 15-20 mm are screwed to the metal sheet using self-tapping screws. Also, with the help of beams, internal stiffeners are formed, between which a heater is attached.
Stage 2. Installation of insulation sheets. The material is cut into pieces so that they fit exactly into the recesses between the stiffeners. The thickness of the insulation should not be greater than the thickness of the beams.
Stage 3. Finishing doors. A canvas is cut out of eco-leather or leatherette, fastened on nails with wide caps to the bars. The edges of the canvas should go to the ends of the beams so that the material completely covers the entire structure.
Also, instead of fabric, you can use a cut-to-size laminated MDF sheet.
Conduct self-insulation doors is not difficult, the main thing is to follow all stages of restoration work.
With complex insulation of a house or apartment, it is important to take into account all possible places of heat loss, since only in this case can truly effective thermal insulation be obtained.
As statistics show, about 25% of the total heat loss of a cottage, or a private house, falls on doors and windows.
1 Why insulate the front door?
The issue of thermal insulation of windows, due to the huge amount of information on the Internet, has already exhausted itself, while thermal insulation of the door, which, in practice, is a fairly simple task that you can do yourself, requires some explanation.
As an entrance door, in most cases, both in apartments and in private houses, metal doors are used. Such structures, in comparison with wooden doors, have one key advantage- maximum strength characteristics.
By setting quality door from metal with , and nice castle, you can be sure that your home is securely protected from intruders. However, metal structures also have certain disadvantages.
First of all, this is the high thermal conductivity of the metal itself, which, given the relatively small thickness that steel doors, leads to very serious heat losses. There are frequent cases when in the corridor where the street door is located, the temperature is 3-4 degrees lower than in the rest of the house.
In addition, a metal street door, as a rule, has gaps between the door itself and the doorway, the thickness of which can reach up to 5 millimeters. Such gaps cause a constant draft, which should not be allowed, especially if small children live in the house.
Another weakness of metal doors is that they do not have normal sound insulation, and all the sounds coming from the entrance or from the street can be perfectly heard in the house.
Do-it-yourself high-quality insulation of entrance metal doors using basalt (and safe, by the way) can fully solve problems with both sound insulation and heat loss.
1.1 What is the best insulation to use?
A common material for door insulation has been and remains ordinary foam rubber, however, use given material for thermal insulation of the front door is unjustified due to a number of reasons.
In general, this is the lack of the required technical characteristics that can ensure the fulfillment of all the requirements for high-quality thermal insulation - foam rubber does not act as additional sound insulation, and does not have a sufficiently low thermal conductivity. The only thing it is good for is use as a sealant to eliminate drafts.
Of the heaters on the market for do-it-yourself door insulation, fibrous heaters, like mineral wool, and panel materials - polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam are best suited.
We recommend that you insulate the front door with ordinary foam or, because this insulation has optimal ratio cost and thermal insulation characteristics. Styrofoam is a good sound insulation, it significantly reduces the sound penetrating into the house through street doors.
Mineral wool, in comparison with polystyrene, has one significant drawback - it is vapor-permeable, and shrinks when soaked with moisture. While in the insulation of the door it is extremely important that the insulation retains its size and densely fills all the cavities inside the structure.
One of key requirements to the insulation, which will be located in the front door - this is hydrophobicity. Since the door is a structure that is constantly in contact with warm air inside the cottage, and cold air outside, condensation will constantly form in it.
Insulation saturated with moisture gradually loses its thermal insulation characteristics, and ceases to be effective sound insulation. Styrofoam, on the other hand, will not absorb condensate, since the material has a closed structure that does not allow steam or moisture to pass through.
If the budget does not limit the choice of thermal insulation material, then it makes sense to dwell on extruded polystyrene foam and. In fact, this material, both visually and in terms of technical specifications similar to polystyrene, but it is an order of magnitude better in terms of thermal conductivity.
The thermal conductivity coefficient of foam plastic is about 0.04 W/mk, while for extruded polystyrene foam it is 0.029 W/mk. This suggests that with an equal thickness of the insulation, the efficiency of thermal insulation with polystyrene foam will be an order of magnitude higher.
1.2 Required tools and materials
To insulate street doors with your own hands, in addition to insulation, you will need the following tools and materials:
- Panel of plywood, or laminated chipboard, is identical in size to the dimensions of the door that will be used as the inner lining;
- Wooden blocks for arranging the internal frame holding the sheathing material;
- Liquid penoizol, or non-expanding polyurethane foam;
- Plaster or putty mixture;
- Sealant in the form of a polymer tape;
- Glue for polyfoam to metal surfaces;
- Hacksaw for cutting bars;
- Stationery knife for cutting insulation;
- Screwdriver and wood screws;
- spatula as for .
1.3 Insulate the door frame
As a rule, reinforcing pins fix the door frame in the wall, and the box itself is a frame welded from metal corner. Such a design, even after sealing with mounting foam, often has gaps from which a draft draws.
Even if the sealing with mounting foam is done with high quality, the main drawback of this material is the loss of properties under direct exposure to sunlight, which the cottage's street doors are constantly exposed to.
Do-it-yourself high-quality insulation of the door frame is performed according to the following algorithm:
- The opening between the box and the wall is cleared of the remnants of the mounting foam;
- The resulting gap is wetted with water and foamed with liquid penoizol;
- Upon solidification of penoizol, excess material is cut off flush with the wall;
- Within 3-5 centimeters from the door frame, the wall is covered with putty, which will perform a protective function. The places where penoizol is located are puttied with a fairly thick layer using.
Such insulation of the entrance wooden doors necessary to the same extent as for metal structures. Such thermal insulation guarantees the absence of drafts and acts as an additional sound insulation.
2 We insulate metal entrance doors
Do-it-yourself technology for thermal insulation of the front door provides for lining the inside of the door with slats, and subsequent installation decorative panel over the heater.
The first stage of work is the arrangement of the internal frame of the rails. The bars are installed along the inner perimeter of the door, including along the central stiffeners.
It is first necessary to drill holes in the load-bearing elements of the door for self-tapping screws with which the beam will be attached. The pitch of the holes should be 5-10 centimeters.
To fasten the rails, it is necessary to use self-tapping screws approximately 5 millimeters longer than the total thickness of the rails and metal frame doors.
After the holes are drilled, the door is measured, the bars are adjusted to size, and fixed around the perimeter of the structure.
We cut the foam panels so that the insulation fits snugly between the wooden frame. The smaller the gaps, the best thermal insulation and sound insulation will have a heater. All cracks between the wooden slats and the surface of the metal door are foamed.
Styrofoam is installed in the cells of the wooden frame, the insulation is fixed with glue. The joints of the foam and rails are sealed with mounting foam.
After the foam has hardened, cut off its excess, and sheathe the door decorative material. For sheathing the front door with their own hands are often used chipboard, plywood, laminate, wooden slats, etc.
The front door trim is attached to wooden frame by using liquid nails, after which it is additionally fixed with nails or self-tapping screws.
around the perimeter wood paneling a metal or plastic corner is installed. Also, on top of the decorative panel, the sheathing of the entrance doors made of leather vinyl or leatherette is often attached - special kits are sold in construction stores that include all the materials necessary for upholstery.
2.1 Do-it-yourself insulation features for entrance doors (video)
A high-quality metal door gives a feeling of reliability and security, but at the same time it also has significant drawbacks. Due to the heat-conducting qualities, condensation often appears on the door, which adversely affects the metal and destroys it over time. In addition, a metal door does not retain heat well, so you need to know how to insulate a metal door from the inside.
How to insulate a metal front door with your own hands
In order for the house to be always warm, and the door to serve for a long time and not corrode, it must be insulated from the inside. The choice of materials is quite large, but fibrous or foam plastic is most often used.
Fiber-based slabs are non-combustible stone, mineral wool in rolls or slabs. Such material perfectly keeps heat, does not let in noise from the outside. The main advantage of fiber boards is ease of installation.
A significant disadvantage Such a heater is the lack of moisture protection, that is, when moisture enters, the volume is lost and the quality of thermal insulation decreases. Fiber materials it is advisable to use for warming the front door in an apartment building.
For private houses, moisture-proof material should be taken as the basis for insulation. For this purpose, polystyrene or polystyrene is perfect. These materials are produced in the form of plates. Styrofoam is a foam material with air bubbles, and polystyrene has nitrogen instead of air, which improves its performance and increases resistance to high temperatures.
Step by step instructions: insulation of the front door
For work, in addition to the heater, you will need:
- Chipboard, MDF or plywood.
- Larch beam, equal to the thickness of the protruding elements of the door.
- Mounting foam.
- Sharp thin knife.
- polymer tape.
- Putty or cement mortar.
- Putty knife.
- Universal glue.
- Screwdriver and electric jigsaw.
The box for the front door is often made of a metal corner. Such a frame is fixed with iron pins. The gaps left during the installation of the frame are sealed with foam. If, during the door insulation, the foam has changed its shade to yellow or brown, then it must be removed and the holes re-foamed. Before sealing cracks, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the surface and moisten it for a better setting. After the foam has hardened, the excess is cut off and puttied or plastered. The plaster should go over the box to securely fasten it and make it invisible.
Before starting work, you need to remove all fittings from the door. Then a frame is made of timber. The beam goes along the perimeter and has two transverse crossbars. It is attached with self-tapping screws so that they do not come out from the outside of the door. Thermal insulation material cut with a thin clerical or ordinary sharp knife.
A heater is inserted between the frame and the metal. It can be glued to the surface, fixed between the bars by surprise, or both methods can be used together. The gap between the insulation should be minimal.
The glue is applied in an even layer, after which the insulation is glued to the surface. For a better fit, you need to press it and hold it for a couple of minutes. If gaps remain after gluing, they must be filled with foam or thin stripes polystyrene, planted on glue.
Then the door lining is done. This will protect the insulation and decorate the door leaf. For these purposes, laminated MDF, chipboard or plywood is taken, which has moisture-proof properties and is pasted over with leatherette.
Cut to size from sheet outside door leaf. Holes for fittings are cut in the canvas with an electric jigsaw. If plywood is used, then it must be covered with dermantine. Fastening is done with a furniture stapler, and the skin folds go into inside. On the upper part, decorative nails are then hammered.
Then the frame on the door is smeared with glue and the canvas is pressed. For reliability, it is fixed with self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws are taken with decorative caps and screwed in with a forty-centimeter step around the perimeter of the door.
Then the fittings are inserted. AND final stage, the polymer tape is being glued into the door frame, which will protect the door from cold bridges.
A properly insulated metal door will protect the house from cold and moisture for many years, and also have an attractive appearance without losing its soundproofing qualities. Do-it-yourself repairs will help correct any shortcomings in the materials used. Insulate the door in a private house, garage or apartment, then in winter time the room will be warm and cozy.
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