Make a concrete well. Making a well with your own hands. How to make a unique well: inexpensive outer skin design

You look inside the neighbor's well and wonder how this can even be done? In fact, any owner of a summer cottage can build this simple and useful hydraulic structure with his own hands. The main thing is to want.

We will tell you how and in what order the arrangement of the well is carried out, we will tell you which method is more convenient and faster to carry out the work. In the article presented by us, the technology for constructing a mine water intake structure is described in detail. Tips are given, following which you can easily arrange an autonomous water intake.

Any work begins with the acquisition of building materials and equipment. In this case, the list of building materials and tools is quite extensive. It is better to prepare everything ahead of time, so that later you do not have to travel back and forth to the hardware store and be distracted from work.

And you should prepare the following:

A shovel with a short handle that fits into the shaft.
A pump, preferably capable of pumping water containing sand particles, in other words, slurry.
A strong rope, preferably nylon, or a sling for hanging the pump, if the submersible option is used.
Hose to the pump of the appropriate length - the depth of the mine plus the distance of the outlet from the work site.
Buckets, preferably a couple.
Lighting carry-extension.
The usual carrying, so that it reaches the nearest outlet and allows you to power the same hammer drill and pump.
A tripod with a hoist, if the rings are installed after the hole is dug up to the upper limit of the aquifer.
Auxiliary boards and timber, with which it will be possible to move, lift, install rings, if a tripod hoist is not provided.
Perforator.
Staples or anchor bolts with metal plates.
Hammer, in case staples are selected.
Mortar - ready mix or cement with sand.

If everything you need is prepared, we proceed to the instruction on the direct arrangement of the well with our own hands.

Stage number 1 - markup and start of work

Initially, the hole in diameter should be slightly wider than the ring. We mark a circle of the desired diameter, and proceed to dig. At the first stage, the ground may be hard, in some cases scrap may be required. But then things will go much easier.

It would be superfluous to say that the edges of the future well shaft should be strictly vertical to the horizon, and since the building level cannot be used in this case, we will control the vertical along the construction plumb line. If it is not there, you can make such a tool yourself from a weight and an ordinary rope.

Stage number 2 - digging a well mine

At this stage, you should immediately decide which method you will dig the well, open or closed. If the soil on the site consists of sands, sandy loams, flooded gravel and gravel deposits, interspersed with sandy aggregate, the well is dug in a closed way.

In order to avoid collapses and erosions, the first one is installed in a hole dug along its diameter at the initial stages of digging. The soil is removed with a shovel from under the ring and it falls down due to its gravity.

If the soil is dense, the walls of the mine do not collapse, since clay and loam prevail in the section, it is better to build a well in an open way. In this case, the shaft is deepened without installing rings into it until the worker performing the digging reaches the upper groundwater horizon.

After that, the rings are lowered into the shaft, fastened together, and further deepening occurs according to the closed type method.

Stage number 3 - installation of concrete rings

If the mine was dug by an open method, a tripod is mounted on top to lower the rings, in the center of which a hoist is fixed. Each ring is mounted strictly lock to lock. Before installing each subsequent link, a special solution is applied to the lower lock with the addition of plasticizers from waterproof cement grades.

When all of them are planted on top of each other, holes are drilled in the upper parts of the lower rings and in the lower parts of the upper rings, into which stainless staples are hammered. Three brackets or strips with anchor bolts are enough to ensure that the rings do not come off each other as a result of heaving.

The rings fastened with the help of such brackets will no longer budge, no matter what degree of heaving the soil in your area is. And stainless steel will prevent rust from getting into the well water

When building a well using the closed type method, each of the rings is placed on the next one as it deepens. Lubrication with mortar and staples here is done as the concrete shaft grows.

Stage number 4 - equipping with a filter

In order for the filter in the well to be not a distraction, but actually perform its function, it must consist of three layers:

Lower - 25 cm of coarse quartz sand.
Medium - 25 cm of small river pebbles.
Upper - 25 cm large river stone.

It is clear that when equipping a well with such a powerful and effective one, you will have to deepen it as low as possible, equipping it with a kind of sump, since only one filter will take you a whole ring in capacity.

Also, do not forget that the filter periodically (the best - once a year) will have to be serviced, that is, washed or changed stones. Otherwise, the water quality will drop.

If the well is intended only for watering the garden and other household purposes, then you can do without a filter. What is sump and how it looks can be clearly seen in the following diagram.

Stage number 5 - clay castle and formwork

At the final stage, along the circumference of the well - at a distance of 3-5 meters from the rings of the mine, the top layer of the earth rises and is covered with clay. This layer, subsequently covered with sand and gravel, will be called clay castle. On top of a sand and gravel cushion, it would be desirable to make concrete pavement. Not necessarily the same area as the castle, but not less than 2-3 meters.

Everything is closed up so that the upper edge of the sand and gravel cushion (sand 15-20 cm, gravel 15-20 cm) goes to the level of the top layer of soddy soil, and the formwork (7-10 cm) rises 5 cm above it.

A clay castle will protect the mine from, which you can make with your own hands, from abundant moisture to their outer edges. This will prevent excessive heaving and, thereby, protect the structural elements from shifts and penetration of dirt into the well shaft.

Formwork is needed in order to, in turn, protect the clay castle from washing out and enhance its protective properties. In the end, a well with formwork around the circumference just looks more aesthetically pleasing.

Stage number 6 - arrangement of the upper part

You can insulate the formwork, as well as the upper ring of the well, from frost. This is especially recommended in regions where the winter is severe and the top layer of the earth is thoroughly frozen. In the role of a heater, hard-grade polystyrene foam is perfect, on which a crate is installed on top, and then plaster is applied.

Having tried hard, you can make a real work of art from the top of the structure, which will not only diversify, but also greatly embellish your country landscape. Most often, the head is covered with stone, but with the help of wood you can give it a delightful look.

To protect against debris caused by the wind, the head of the well should be closed with a tight lid. And in order to extend the life of this cover, as well as the skewer and other equipment, a visor is made on top of the head.

The choice of a place for or a personal suburban area is made in compliance with a number of rules.

It is erected according to certain rules, and here are the main ones:

The water source cannot be located closer than 8 meters from the outdoor toilet.
If in the country the sewerage is arranged according to the type of absorbing cesspool (septic tank without a bottom), and the well is intended for drinking water, then the well shaft should be located at least 50 m from it.
In the case of an airtight cesspool or if the water will be used exclusively for watering the garden, this distance can be reduced to 20 m.
Also, the water source should not be located close to the silo pits. The distance to them must also be at least 8 m.

Here it is worth considering that the greater the distance of your well shaft from all kinds of structures polluting groundwater, the better.

This diagram shows that the well from the septic tank must be at least 20 m away if the water is intended for household needs, and 50 meters if the water is intended for drinking

It is best to start work when the aquifer is at its lowest possible level. And it drops significantly either during periods of prolonged drought, or after a month after the first frost hit.

Why during these periods? During these periods, water horizons are not fed with water - in summer due to insignificant precipitation, and in late autumn and winter because the freezing top layer does not let water into the earth.

You can do it at normal times, but in this case, at the last stage, you may not be able to go deep enough into the aquifer.

If you plan to make a filter, and this is at least 60 cm, and have at least one ring high in the well - 80 cm, then you will have to go deep below the upper threshold of groundwater by about one and a half meters. And the easiest way to do this is in conditions where the water does not stay constantly and at high speed.

But, if you rely entirely on a good pump that can pull slurry mixed with sand, then this is not a problem. You will have to tinker in the liquid in both cases. And, of course, it is better if it is in warm weather.

Many could see how some specialists in search of water walk around the area with two frames. Where they intersect, then, supposedly, the aquifer passes close to the surface.

To this we want to note that any real hydrogeologist will tell you that:

Water is everywhere and always, except, of course, when you live on a mountainside. If the terrain is more or less even, then the groundwater belt lies, as a rule, at the same distance from the surface of the earth. If your site is hilly, in this case, it would be more acceptable to consider digging a mine in a lowland. You can save money on 1-2 or even 3 rings, depending on what elevation changes your country landscape has.
Searches with the help of frames do not give anything at all. The effectiveness of this method has not been proven by scientists. Therefore, if you hire a home-grown specialist who practices this method, know that this specialist is most likely hanging noodles on your ears. Another thing is that you can't prove it. As already mentioned, water is everywhere. And the fact that he made a mistake by a couple of rings down or up, he will write off this for the costs of the method, about which he will warn you in advance.
The best way to find out at what distance the water lies is either to ask a neighbor on whose site there is already a well, or to ask local geologists, drillers and meteorologists. They have engineering-geological maps, according to which they will determine the depth of groundwater.

Well, when we have decided on the place, we go for the rings and for the necessary tools and equipment, if there is none at your summer cottage.

It all depends on what diameter your shaft will have. If you want to have a wide well, you can take wider rings. Of course, it takes longer to dig, but it is more convenient to both dig and use. You can turn around properly, use a shovel with a longer handle, etc.

If a narrow design suits, you can stop at rings of small diameter. In order to “feel the situation”, right at the firm you can climb into one of the rings and try to turn around in it. In what will be more convenient to work, take such.

The best option for a country well would be KS 10.9 tongue-and-groove, made in accordance with GOST 8020-90. Of these, mounting a mine is a pleasure.

Quicksand is a layer of silty clayey sand soaked in water. It resembles outwardly dirty slurry, it is very difficult to get water from it: it is possible only as a result of prolonged settling. And then it will be too small, and therefore it is pointless to extract water from quicksand.

In general, the presence of a quicksand in a section is an extremely rare geological situation. They are found only in glacial deposits, which are, for example, in the Leningrad region. However, if it comes across, it will be desirable to go deeper below this layer. Only in this case it will be possible to ensure the constant and rapid filling of the mine with water.

The process of overcoming the quicksand is very laborious. The legs are constantly sucked in, and the accumulated water and slurry create additional difficulties in the work. But if you want the well to be full-flowing, then you have to do it.

Three staples on opposite sides are enough to ensure that the rings are fastened firmly. This design is not scary

It is desirable to carry out work on the arrangement of the well in the country as soon as possible. Delays in carrying out work using an open method will lead to a collapse of the walls of the pit.

And if in a situation with an open method, the situation can be corrected by cleaning the pit and filling the crumbling edges with earth after installing the rings in the shaft, then in the second one it may be necessary to use a crane.

Upon completion of digging the well and backfilling the bottom filter, it is advisable to pump out the first water from it. Then you must take it without fail in order to hand it over for laboratory testing. Only after that it will be possible to decide whether it can be used for technical or drinking purposes.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Those who would be interested in listening to expert advice in a slightly expanded and different version can watch the following video:

Work on the arrangement of a well mine is not as difficult as it is laborious. And it is not always necessary to dig the earth's surface, delving into it ten meters.

Much more often, the aquifer passes at a depth of 4 to 7 meters. Alternately changing, two strong guys are quite capable of digging such a mine in two days. The main thing is the desire and the tool!

Tell us about how you dug and equipped a well in your summer cottage with your own hands. Share technological subtleties that site visitors can use. Leave comments, post photos and ask questions in the block below.

Dig a well in the country with your own hands - at first glance, the task is simple. In fact, this process has many subtleties, without knowing which it is simply impossible to obtain high-quality drinking water. We will describe in detail not only the process of its construction, but also ways to search for aquifers, as well as the installation of plumbing systems to supply water to the house.

Types of wells

The choice of well type depends on the depth of the aquifer and the type of soil:

key: used infrequently when underground sources (keys) are close to the surface; a hole sunk 10-20 cm into the ground is covered with rubble, then a log house is prepared with a hole to drain excess water
mine: the most common, used when aquifers occur at a depth of 5-25 m; consists of a trunk, a water intake in the lower part, which is under water, and a head (above-ground part)
Abyssinian (tubular): unlike the well, it is less deep and has a smaller casing diameter; plus the pumps it uses are not submersible, but ground (often manual); such a structure is inexpensive, however, its service life is short; plus in winter, when groundwater goes deep into their extraction, it can be difficult

Log shaft wells according to the type of the lower (water intake) part, in turn, are divided into three more groups:

with imperfect (incomplete) water intake: its lower part does not reach the bottom of the water reservoir, so the liquid seeps through the bottom or walls; this option is more often chosen when building a well with your own hands; the volume of water in it is quite enough for watering and meeting the needs of the family
with a perfect water intake: it is at the very bottom of the aquifer; such structures for private houses are rarely used, because if water supplies exceed the usual expenses of the family, the water in it will quickly deteriorate and silt
with a perfect water intake, supplemented by a sump– deepening in the underlying rock to create a water reserve

Location selection

For some reason, it seems to some inhabitants that water should be present everywhere. It is enough to make the hole deeper - and the well is ready. As a result, a wasted mine, wasted time and nerves. Moreover, the vein can pass just a couple of meters from the dug well, which remained dry.

To search for a nearby water reservoir, the dowsing method has been successfully used to this day. Once upon a time, branches of viburnum, hazel or willow served as natural biolocators. Today, even experienced drillers often replace them with pieces of copper or aluminum wire with ends bent at 90 degrees. They are inserted into hollow tubes and, holding them in their hands, pass the site meter by meter. In the place of close passage of water, the wires begin to cross in the direction of the current. To be sure, the site is surveyed in this way several times.

When looking for a place for a well in the country, you should also pay attention to the color of the greenery growing on the site. Near water, it is more juicy. Willow, meadowsweet, ivy and meadowsweet are very fond of such places - where they have chosen a place for growth, they will definitely live. Nettle, horse sorrel, cinquefoil, naked licorice, coltsfoot, horsetail also grow here. But apple and plum trees, on the contrary, take root worse and often die.

Alder, willow, birch, willow and maple will always tend to the aquifer. Solitary oaks are also a sign of the high standing of the waters. They grow exactly where they intersect.

It has long been noticed that cats like to bask in such places. Dogs, on the other hand, avoid such areas. It is also worth watching the red ants. They try to locate anthills away from water. Near it in the evening, a large number of mosquitoes and midges always hover. In the mornings there is also always more dew and fog.

After finding the alleged location of the aquifer, before digging a well in the country, exploratory drilling is carried out. For these purposes, it is allowed to use an ordinary garden drill. Since it will have to go deep by 6-10 m, its length will have to be increased. If moisture appeared after drilling the well, then the location of the water reservoir was determined correctly.

If you don't trust the old tried and tested methods, contact a nearby exploration site. In the arsenal of such organizations there are always special geophysical instruments that can accurately determine the close location of an aquifer.

When the formations are below 10-15 m, the idea of digging a well should be abandoned. In this case, well drilling will be required.

How deep to dig a well?

How to make a “correct” well so that there is always water in it? Its depth depends only on natural factors. Therefore, it is very difficult to determine in advance how many rings will be needed. An approximate guideline can be given by structures located nearby, for example, by neighbors, but this data will also be inaccurate. A method that can accurately tell about the future depth, unfortunately, does not yet exist.

To calculate the required number of concrete rings and the depth of the mine, test drilling is carried out. With the help of it, the density of the soil, its composition, as well as the presence of limestone slabs near it, are determined. But it cannot give an exact result either.

The aquifers in the diagrams look like stripes running underground horizontally or at a slight slope. The catchment part of the well can be located only on its upper boundary (the top of the formation), in the center or at the very bottom (the bottom of the formation).

To obtain clean water, the mine must go to the second or even third aquifers. The first of these is perched water - water that accumulates near the surface. Its level is always unstable, plus it gets dirty easily. It is used only for irrigation. When digging a drinking well, this layer must be passed and deepened down.

Excavation continues until the veins are clearly visible, and water begins to flow into the pit in sufficient quantities. It must be left for a day, and on the second day, check its arrival. If the height of the water layer is at least 1.5 m, digging can be stopped and start swinging (cleaning) from soil suspensions.

Independent digging of wells on light sandy soils is dangerous due to the possibility of collapse and blockages. If there are several places on the site with the passage of aquifers, the place with the most dense soil should be chosen. It is desirable that it be elevated in order to avoid the runoff of rainwater into it.

In order not to risk, it is better in this case to use the services of specialists. The price of building a turnkey well in different areas may vary, so it is better to check with a particular organization.

What is a bottom filter?

Do you need a well filter? If there is a quicksand in it without a bottom filter - a layer of sand, crushed stone, gravel or pebbles that serve to purify the incoming moisture from earth suspensions - it is a necessity. Completely, of course, it will be problematic to get rid of them, but he will be able to precipitate most of the small particles of soil. Such a filter works on the principle of a conventional sieve.

But among the owners of wells (and many specialists) there is often an opinion that such cleaning is also necessary in the absence of quicksand. Allegedly, only she is able to provide perfectly clean water. Indeed, at first, a small film of special algae and bacteria is formed in the sand layer, eating microorganisms dissolved in water. But the service life of such a biological filter is short. Over time, the biofilm layer increases, the filtration rate decreases, and the well quickly silts up.

A properly equipped well should be filled only through the bottom. In practice, it is not always possible to provide only bottom inflow. Water often begins to seep through the walls. In this case, its cleaning through the bottom filter simply does not occur.

Plus, a significant layer of backfill (and it should be at least half a meter) reduces the volume of water. Its inflow is also decreasing. It becomes difficult to carry out high-quality cleaning of a silted well in the presence of a layer of sand and gravel.

In villages, large stones are sometimes laid on the bottom. But this is required only in order not to muddy the water when scooping up during seasonal shallowing. If the well is deep enough, and its level does not fall too low, this is not particularly necessary.

When a quicksand is found, in addition to the bottom filter, it will also be necessary to build a special shield made of wood or steel with holes that can contain the flow of soil mixed with liquid.

What to choose, concrete rings or a wooden frame?

Just digging a well is not enough. He needs reliable protection from collapse. For this, concrete rings or wood can be used. Brick shafts are rarely used - laying them out is too laborious a process. Plus, a metal frame is required to strengthen the brick, otherwise the walls will begin to crumble quickly. It is made from a profile, fittings or durable wood.

Concrete rings will last longer. It makes sense to choose wooden log cabins if the entrance and delivery of rings to the selected site is impossible. The price of a well made of wood is unlikely to be lower than a structure made of concrete rings, and it will take more time to build. Yes, and such mines silt up faster, and they will have to be cleaned more often.

The use of concrete rings greatly simplifies and speeds up the work. They are installed on top of each other. To avoid displacement, such rings are fastened together with steel brackets. To prevent chipping along the edges, steel strips of 40-60 mm can be made.

The joints of the rings are coated with concrete mortar and additionally sealed with tarred hemp or liquid glass. On loose soils, it is better to put strong boards on the bottom of the mine so that the rings stand up straight.

Monolithic concrete wells are prepared using formwork. At a considerable depth, concrete is first poured to a shallow depth. Then they continue to dig a hole, making a tunnel under a layer of concrete and installing props for it. After passing another 2 meters, a new formwork is being prepared. In order for the walls to become stronger, a time of 7-10 days is maintained between each filling.

For wooden log cabins, you will need a log of moisture-resistant ash or oak with a diameter of 15 cm or more. Thicker logs with a thickness of 22 cm or more are cut in half. It is not recommended to take conifers - they will give drinking water a little bitterness.

The log house is assembled with locks “in the paw”, that is, several spikes are prepared at one end of the log, and grooves at the other. They do this first on the surface, marking the number of each crown, and then reassemble it already in the mine. The crowns are fastened with dowels (metal pins) vertically. The upper crowns are additionally reinforced with steel brackets.

To avoid the ingress of sewage, it is forbidden to locate a drinking well at a distance of less than 30 m from sewer and cesspools. To avoid weakening the soil under the foundations from the nearest buildings, it must be removed at least 8 m.

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Construction of a well from concrete rings in stages

Let us describe in detail the process of building a well in a turnkey cottage. This is a rather laborious task, and it can take a lot of time.

well digging

It is necessary to start work in March (the best time) or August-September, when groundwater drops to a minimum level. In the southern and northern regions of Russia, this period may be shifted.
Don't forget basic safety rules. Work should be carried out only by two people (alternately) using a safety rope.
Since wells are often dug by hand, their width is determined by the dimensions of the human body. The optimal diameter is 0.8-1.5 m. Although, of course, these dimensions are approximate. There is simply no point in making it wider - the amount of incoming moisture will not increase from this.
When using concrete rings, the width of the pit is equal to the width of the ring plus an allowance of 30-50 cm.
Please note that during the digging process, the pit can fill up quickly enough, so you will have to periodically pump out water.
To prevent the rings from accidentally shifting, it is advisable to purchase products with thorn-groove locks. Their connection with each other will be more reliable.
The lowest ring (water inlet) must be provided with a bottom and perforations on the walls.
Soil excavation is continued to a depth equal to the height of the first (perforated) ring. It is installed in such a way that it protrudes 10 cm above the ground.
Under the first ring, 4 recesses are prepared, in which strong wooden supports or a row of bricks are installed.
We continue to dig a mine under the ring, standing on supports. It must be dug out slightly under the cone so that the first ring, under the influence of its own weight, can easily sink down.
We remove the supports by lowering the ring below. We install a new ring on top.
We continue in the same order to go deep into the ground, while increasing the rings.
Upon reaching the aquifer, digging continues until a layer of water of 40-50 cm is formed at the bottom.
Further, it must be completely scooped out so that the aquifers are clearly visible. The well is covered with a thick film or tarpaulin.
Subsequent work is carried out after 12-14 hours.
To filter soil suspensions and prevent its resuspension, a layer of coarse gravel 25 cm thick can be poured to the bottom.
The well is again left for a day to raise water. Its layer should be 1.5 m.
If there is not enough water in the reservoir due to the small height of the reservoir, side holes can be made in the walls to collect it.
The gap formed between the log house and the ground is covered with crushed stone or gravel.

Underground gas can get into the well shaft! Although such cases are infrequent, at the slightest suspicion (hissing, gurgling, the appearance of a foreign smell), lower a bucket with a burning candle into it or throw a bundle of lit straw. To avoid a strong explosion (if there is methane in the mine), move away from it. In the presence of carbon dioxide, a candle or straw, on the contrary, will quickly go out. If the gas does not leave for a long time, in order to sort out the problem, you will need to call specialists and the Ministry of Emergencies.

Clay castle and blind area

The "clay castle" serves as a natural barrier that protects against the ingress of rainwater and domestic sewage. To create it, soil is selected around the well to a depth of 50 cm. The width of such a ditch is 30-45 cm. We put wet clay into it. To exclude the formation of voids and cracks, it must be carefully trampled. The top is compacted and smoothed with a wide board. For the convenience of walking, you can lay a series of bricks, large stones or make a blind area of concrete.

In the early years, wells built on clay soil fill more slowly. They may need periodic pumping to flush the springs. In the future, the inflow increases.

Head construction

Decorative well with a brick head

Its purpose is to prevent water pollution in the ground area. After all, the external insulation of the structure is no less important. Without it, tree leaves, insects and wind-blown debris will constantly fall into the well.

The head should rise above the surface at a height of 60-90 cm. It is supplied with a lid and a device for lifting water. Even with a pumping system, you should not refuse a gate with a bucket. After all, electricity can be turned off for a while.

The best finishing materials are wood or brick. It is definitely not worth protecting the head with a metal tile. Its angles are so sharp that they can cut through your skin like a knife. It is not necessary to make its cover too tight - in order to avoid the appearance of mustiness, the well must “breathe”.

It makes no sense to insulate the head. Reliable thermal insulation should be at the level of a pair of upper rings so that the water in the well does not freeze.

The height of the log house or concrete rings should be 0.8-1 m, so that a person, when dredging a bucket, can safely get it without leaning too much down.

Well buildup

The water in the dug well is still cloudy and can only be used for irrigation. It is not yet suitable for drinking. Cleaning of water, as well as the bottom and walls of the pit from loose soil, is carried out using a small submersible mud pump:

remember the rule: the first few pumpings are carried out in small portions with a intake of no more than 3/4 of the water column; otherwise, with an intensive intake of new portions of moisture, the bottom will wash out, and there will be no sense in such cleaning
the very first cleaning is done by hand; for this you need to go down into the well with an ordinary shovel and bucket; the pump can't cope with so much dirt yet
the pump is hooked onto a strong cable and installed closer to the bottom, at the gravel pack to keep the silt from settling
pumping is carried out until the water begins to flow intensively; the number of pump starts per day is at least four; and it must be done in different modes
drain contaminated water
from time to time the pump must be flushed by running clean water, otherwise it will quickly fail from overload
a well dug in clay soil requires lengthy cleaning; some owners believe that cloudy liquid is inevitable in this case, but this is far from the case; its mine can and should be pumped

In a similar way, periodic cleaning of water from the well is carried out. Otherwise, it will silt up and become shallow. This is done as it gets dirty.

In the absence of a mud pump, the mixture of liquid and soil is removed from the well using an ordinary bucket with a rope tied to it. But this process is very laborious - cleaning must be done until the water becomes absolutely clean, without impurities.

When the well is located on a quicksand - soil mixed with a lot of water - it is unrealistic to clean it. In this case, special drainage systems (bottom filters) are used.

To ensure uninterrupted supply of water to the garden house, a tie-in for pipes is prepared in advance in one of the concrete rings. They should be laid 30 cm below the freezing level of the soil. Otherwise, at the end of winter, bursting pipes will have to be replaced. In each locality, this indicator is different, so it should be clarified.

For laying a water pipe in the country house from the well to the house, a trench is laid to it. When calculating its depth, the height of the sand and gravel cushion (up to 10-15 cm) is taken into account. For laying the water supply, HDPE polyethylene pipes made of low-pressure plastic are used. The optimal diameter is 32 mm. You will also need connecting fittings (tees, transitions, bends, etc.).

Since the cost of pipes is minimal, experts advise laying two lines to the well at once. In this case, when a leak occurs, you can use the second as a fallback.

For mechanical protection against soil pressure, pipes are run into corrugations or pipes of larger diameter. Between them it is better to lay a layer of insulation. When lifting pipes closer to the surface near the basement or unheated basement, they can freeze, so additional thermal insulation is required in these places.

For uninterrupted water supply from the well in the utility room, it is better to provide a storage tank. After laying the pipes, they are connected to a pump, which is lowered into the water at a distance of 30 cm from the bottom (about its choice below).

Selection of pumping equipment

As you know, all types of pumps are divided into two types:

1 Surface: in the water they have only a suction pipe; such units are able to lift it only from a depth of up to 10.3 m; it is to such a height that water can rise through the tube, pushed out by atmospheric pressure into the tube; in practice, due to friction losses and fluctuations in atmospheric pressure, this parameter decreases and equals 5-7 m; mechanisms with ejectors (water flow accelerators) can lift water from greater depths, but their efficiency is too low.

2 Submersible: the entire mechanism is completely lowered into the liquid, which makes it possible to deliver water from a great depth; since such units do not expend suction power, there is no loss of suction; their efficiency is much higher than superficial ones.

Thus, it is desirable to pump water for a summer residence from deep wells with pumping stations equipped with submersible pumps. It remains only to determine their power and performance. It is necessary to take into account not only the needs of the family, but also the flow of water in the well itself. Otherwise, it may turn out that a too powerful unit will run idle.

Please also note that the overall efficiency of the system will depend not only on the power of the unit, but also on the number of turns and narrowing of the water supply. With a small influx of water, it makes sense to purchase a low-power pump, while equipping a storage tank from which water will be supplied to the house to the taps.

Another important parameter for the pump is the pressure force, that is, the ability to transfer (move) the pumped water further through the pipes. This parameter is directly related to the working pressure. That is, for 10 m of a vertically located pipe there is a pressure of 1 atmosphere.

Water left the well. What to do?

The aquifer depletes over time, so the amount of moisture in the well decreases, and then it becomes completely shallow. But this can happen no earlier than after 10-25 years of operation. Moreover, the operating time does not depend on the depth of the mine, but on the thickness of the aquifer.

Please note that the well is always subject to seasonal shallowing.. During a long drought, its level always decreases. With the onset of the rainy season, the moisture rises again to its usual level. Sometimes it completely disappears with serious geological developments taking place in the area, or changes in seismic activity, but such cases are very rare.

In most cases, the cause of shallowing is silting. Over time, the debris that settles to the bottom turns into silt, which clogs the vein, and the inflow decreases. For uninterrupted water supply to the dacha from the well, its periodic cleaning (buildup) is required. We have described it in detail above.

If the cleaning almost did not help, but the moisture still began to flow in a little, this means that the ducts themselves silted up. They are washed with water from the tank. Moisture, seeping into the aquifer, will clean the springs well.

When sampling a part of the aquifer, the well can be dug up, that is, the water intake can be lowered a little lower. Teach that such deepening must be done wisely. Do not throw it at the first trickle of water. But lowering to too great a depth is undesirable. Otherwise, you will close possible fontanelles with concrete rings. The digging is done more often by 3-4 rings.

It is not worth deepening wells with quicksand - it is unlikely that it will be possible to achieve an increase in inflow in this case.

It is difficult to imagine a Russian court without such an element as a well. The power of tradition turned out to be so strong that even the achievements of modern technology could not defeat them, and until now it can often be found in villages and suburban areas. Therefore, in this case, the design of the well with your own hands or with the help of a designer comes to the fore.

Wooden structures

Wells made of natural wood can be harmoniously entered into any landscape. They are well complemented by built-on houses with various carved figures of birds and animals.

If you plant flowers nearby, install a bench, a barrel, part of a wicker fence, a stylized cart and a windmill, you can create a special atmosphere that will emphasize the individuality of the site. For some, this is not a complicated design of wells, but someone believes that he cannot cope with this.

Very often, such superstructures are made resembling a round, tetrahedral or hexagonal frame. The walls are lined with cobblestones, bricks or sheathed with planed boards, and the building is crowned with a gable roof.

The upper element of the house is often made in the form of a tent. The coating can be made of wood, shingles, polycarbonate or even straw.

Tip: if you want all buildings to be as consistent as possible in the same key, make the roof similar in design to the one installed on a residential building using the same roofing material.

How to make jewelry functional

Fix a tight cover above the water, which protects the mine from debris, and will also become a kind of insulator from hot sunlight.
Complete the composition with a bobbin with a chain and a bucket, which can be not only a decorative element, but also quite functional in case of a power outage.
Structures will look interesting and beautiful on the site, all elements of which have lace carvings, woven mesh elements.
If you plant climbing plants nearby, such as clematis, roses, ivy, grapes, which will act not only as decorations, but also complement landscape design objects, creating an original decor effect and turning it into a shaded recreation area.

You know how to beautifully design a well in a different style, why not use brickwork, concrete or forged structures. But, in any case, decorating a country well will not be a boring pastime and will allow you to show your abilities, as well as a sense of style.

Well made of concrete rings

Quite often, a wooden beam is used for decoration or in the form of the main part of the well. However, not everyone can afford to purchase such a building material, so below will be given instructions on how to make a well from concrete rings at minimal cost.

At the first stage, it is necessary to prepare tools and materials so that the work does not stop:

a solution of sand with cement up to 4 buckets;
0.5 l of pastel color paint;
Master OK;
tassel;
container for cement-sand mixture;
putty knife;
natural stones are small, but about the same size.

Mix the solution with your own hands or use a concrete mixer.
Then apply the entire mortar evenly on the upper concrete ring, making sure that the layer is the same everywhere.
Take a spatula and level the walls, and then wait until the mortar begins to set slightly.
Proceed directly to the design of the source, for which, decorate the bottom by about 1/3 with natural pebbles, pressing them into the solution with little effort. For the top, use a ready-made solution or do something of your own, for example, decorate it with a flat natural stone.
Decorate the remaining 2/3 of the concrete well with a brick pattern:

draw bricks with a sliver on a slightly hardening mortar, if they do not suit you, you can make rings using the neck of a glass jar;
leave the composition for 24 hours, when the pattern is ready, so that the solution "grabs";
take a brush and paint and paint the bricks. The brush can be replaced with an ordinary sponge, which is more convenient for staining.

On this, the process of decorating a concrete well with your own hands can be considered complete. From the foregoing, it became clear that it is quite light, the price of the project is minimal, and even a beginner in the construction craft can cope with such work. If you have children, invite them to participate in this with you, they will definitely like it.

Tip: Don't use bright colors like green or pink or the well will look ridiculous. It is better to give preference to calmer shades.

Care

Having created an exclusively designed country well, it is necessary to monitor its cleanliness. Therefore, the work is not yet finished, as many may have decided.

It requires the same care as other structures, even if you just closed it.

Thermal pollution occurs due to various factors, including freezing and thawing of the soil, the action of fertilizers, etc.
Car - so do not park it next to the well, as washing it can cause contamination of the source. Also do not carry out close oil changes, oil products cannot be weathered.
The street toilet is fraught with no small danger. Install it as far as possible from a drinking source.

Sewerage causes the greatest harm, as drains from a washing machine and a bathroom (bath) pass through it. They contain a sufficient amount of synthetic substances that can pollute the water.
Do not wash, much less take a shower near the well.
Protect a 3-6 meter area around the perimeter from animals.

Conclusion

Making a country well is a way not only to make it beautiful, but also to add functionality to it. For decor, you can use different materials, the main thing is that they do not harm drinking water. In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

In summer cottages, where central water supply is a rarity, the main source of water is an ordinary well. And since it is usually built in plain sight, becoming a noticeable element in the country landscape, you want the building to look harmonious against the general background. It is easy to decorate and give the design an aesthetic appearance. The main thing is to decide on the style and materials, because the design of the well in the country should be based on the design of other buildings and the site itself.

Russian well

This type is a shaft from which water is raised to the surface using a drum fixed on pillars. A chain with a bucket is attached to it, and on the side there is a handle for winding and unwinding the chain.

Shaduf construction

Shaduf is a less common type of well, although in past centuries it was in almost every Russian courtyard. It is used in summer cottages where groundwater is close to the ground. It is a shallow mine, from which water is obtained with the help of a crane. Abyssinian wells are very rare in dachas.

rustic well design

Before you arrange a well in the country, figure out what you will complete it with: with the design of the house or the style of the site. It happens that the owners will build a wooden dacha in the Russian style, and the landscape will be created in the Japanese style. In this case, start from the location of the well: if it is close to the house, create a design similar to the main building. If hidden in the garden, then "fit" it into the overall picture of the landscape.

In rustic styles, wood and stone are traditional materials, so it is logical to add them to the design of the well. So, the head (the part of the well that is above ground level) can be made from a single log in the form of a canopy or a house. A quadrangular or hexagonal design is well suited to simulate a log house. In canopies, only the lower part and racks can be wooden, and on the roof it is better to use the material that covers the cottage.

The head of the well in the form of a log house is most conveniently made in a quadrangular shape

If the country house is made in the form of a Russian tower or a hut with carved shutters, then the well can be given a fabulous look by making racks from dried and bark-free trunks, and next to it on a bench, seating a cat carved from wood, a bear and even Baba Yaga.

The figures give the well a mysterious look, and they can not only be placed on the head, but also seated near the structure

Around the head, you can lay out a platform of cobblestone and plant “village” flowers in a circle: petunias, marigolds, zinnias.

If the cottage is built in the style of a chalet, then there should be more stone in the decoration. In this case, the head is decorated with a round cobblestone, pouring concrete around it in a circle.

The alpine style of the chalet is characterized by buildings in two tiers: the lower one is made of stone, the upper one is made of wood

Decoration of the well in the oriental (Japanese-Chinese) style

Oriental styles are often found in summer cottages, because the harmony and minimalism of landscapes are very appealing to outdoor recreation. A rock garden, a dry stream, fountains and waterfalls, Chinese lanterns… Is there a place for a well in such an environment? There is, and in Eastern cultures the well plays an important role as a custodian of an energy source that feeds human forces with its purity and transparency.

Dragons and a peculiar roof are hallmarks of Chinese culture

The Japanese are very sensitive to water, so a Japanese-style well necessarily provides a canopy that protects the life-giving moisture from dust, foliage and the "evil eye". In the Chinese style, figures of mythical creatures are welcome to guard the well.

Materials in oriental styles are only natural: wood, large stones. The roof has a peculiar shape raised along the edges and is most often finished with soft tiles, repeating the curves of the roof structure.

Minimalism and the presence of large stones are indispensable attributes of the Japanese style.

Include plants in the design of a country well in an oriental way. They should be evergreen and mostly coniferous. A very good option is mountain pine, juniper, different varieties of thuja.

Material on the use of coniferous compositions in garden landscape design will also be useful:

Use of modern materials in decoration

If the cottage is decorated with siding, decorative plaster and other modern materials, then it makes no sense to create an old well, because it will not fit into the overall landscape. In this case, bring modernity here too, by tiling the concrete ring of the head with tiles, and making the roof from a polycarbonate sheet. Iron racks are suitable, with hand forged elements, and if there is no blacksmith nearby, then you can lay them out of red brick.

A polycarbonate roof will look harmonious against a canopy or carport made of the same material.

Image wells for any landscape

Very often in summer cottages you can see image wells that do not have a pronounced style, therefore they are suitable for any landscape.

sea well

Such a well is very appropriate next to the bathhouse. The basis for the racks and the roof can be a tree, but it must be braided with twine or a thin rope. The head is made of wood, which is artificially aged to give the appearance of the remains of a ship battered by the seas. Anchors, figures of sea animals are nailed on top of the boards, shells are hung. The bucket is replaced with a beer barrel, and the handle is turned into a steering wheel.

The shape of a beer barrel is a good option for a well located near the bath

well-mill

It is usually made of wood, in the form of a windmill with four blades. Some craftsmen manage to make the blades move in a big wind. The window inside the head, where the bucket is hidden, is placed on the back side, and the structure itself is turned with blades towards the central path of the cottage.

A mill-shaped well is usually turned to face the busiest part of the site.

The shape of a miniature house, laid out of stone and covered with cheerful bright tiles, looks good in the barbecue area. It complements the composition created by the stove, barbecue, and other attributes of a good rest. In addition, it is convenient to have drinking water near the cooking place.

Near the stone well-house you can “settle” cheerful gnomes

Thinking about how to decorate a well beautifully, you should not rush in search of expensive materials. Use what's left of the main building.

A bag of cement has been preserved - plaster the concrete ring and cut out a brick pattern using the wet mortar. When everything is dry, paint it with red-brown paint, and you will get an antique medieval well.
There is ceramic tile left - break it into pieces and decorate the head with a mosaic in a circle, and the area around the well with broken brick or a flat sharp-angled stone. Get interesting eclecticism.

If some side of the well did not work out too well for you, cover it with flowering shrubs or tall plants (cannes, weaving roses, etc.). Do not be afraid to fantasize, because each well is beautiful because it is individual.

Groundwater is present almost under the entire earth's surface. In one place the deposits of water run close to the surface, in another they are far away. The owner of the summer cottage only needs to determine at what depth the underground aquifer passes, and then take the appropriate measures to equip the well.

A properly dug and well-designed well will provide its owner with clean drinking water for many years. At the same time, with the implementation of all measures for the arrangement of the well in the summer cottage, you can handle it on your own.

First of all, determine the optimal site for arranging the well. There are several methods.

Try to find a suitable place with the help of the simplest fixtures - frames made of brass wire. Take a wire with a diameter of about 3 mm, a length of 0.5 m. Bend the wire at a right angle so that the length of the short part is approximately 100 mm.

Make two such frames. Take them in both hands. You don't need to squeeze the frames too tightly - they should be able to rotate without too much difficulty.

Go around the entire suburban area with such frames. Mark the places where the frames crossed - in these areas the aquifer is located closest to the surface of the earth. If there are several such places, choose the most convenient and suitable for current requirements.

There is a more efficient, but also much more costly way to determine a suitable location for arranging a well. In accordance with this method, you need to dig a well. It will allow you to determine the depth of groundwater.

Ask your neighbors how deep their wells are beforehand. In neighboring areas, groundwater in most situations passes at the same level.

You can also determine that water passes at a short distance from the soil surface by the following features:

Traditional scheme of a private well

In the vast majority of situations, country wells are built according to the same scheme. The main components of the well design under consideration are the water collector, the main shaft and the upper head.

Water is accumulated and stored in the catchment area, the trunk prevents the earth from falling into the catchment area, and the head is the highest part of the well, designed to protect it from precipitation and debris.

Where to start?

The well is best done in the fall. At this time, groundwater drops as low as possible, which will make digging a well easier and allow you to determine the optimal depth of the structure.

Digging the pit is done by hand. Prepare the following devices for this:

Pre-buy the right amount of concrete rings for arranging the walls of the well shaft. The most convenient and easy to install rings with special chamfers for docking, however, they are somewhat more expensive than their simplified counterparts.

Well Construction Guide

Most often, two main options for self-arranging a well are used. Familiarize yourself with the features of each method, choose the most suitable method and get to work.

First method

First step. Dig a hole measuring 1.25x1.25 m. Determine the depth yourself - dig until the aquifer is reached. Dig very carefully, not forgetting the precautionary requirements.

If the earth crumbles heavily, immediately proceed to the second method of arranging a well in the country.

Second step. Lower the concrete rings one by one into the dug shaft, placing them evenly on top of each other. Then deepen the shaft by digging into a couple of rings.

At this point, the main stage of arranging the well is completed. You just have to take additional protective measures and equip the cap, which will be discussed later.

If desired, you can arrange a rectangular well. To do this, it is enough to dig an appropriate pit, install a solid formwork around its perimeter and pour concrete.

This method of self-arranging a well is the most convenient and fastest, but it is only suitable for non-flowing soils.

Second method

First step. Dig a pit about 1 m deep and install the first ring in it. It is better if you manage to buy a ring with pins on the lower rim or with a conical point. Such a ring will simply be easier to move down, and it will settle under its own mass.

Second step. Continue digging the hole until the first concrete ring is down another 100 cm. Install the second ring.

Third step. Run the seams between the rings with a tarred cord or other suitable material and seal with a simple cement mortar. Also, the seams can be sealed with clay mortar, but it is not particularly durable and requires periodic updating.

Continue to equip the well according to the previously given algorithm until you reach the aquifer.

In conclusion, you have to dig the earth already in the aquifer. Doing this work manually will not give you any positive emotions - the earth will mix with water, turning into a dirty liquid mass. Therefore, to facilitate the task, pre-buy a high-quality and efficient drainage pump.

Your task is to get rid of the earth from the lower 2-3 m of the mine in the shortest possible time.

Fill the prepared bottom with a layer of gravel from 10 cm thick. The embankment will act as a filter.

For maximum structural strength, fasten the rings with staples. Cover metal products with an anti-corrosion agent.

Arrangement of a soft blind area

For external moisture insulation of a country well, you must make a soft blind area.

To build a blind area, first remove the top layer of soil around the perimeter of the well you have equipped, and then make a recess. Choose the depth of the pit individually - it should slightly exceed the depth of freezing of the soil.

Fill the prepared area with sifted sand. Carefully tamp the backfill, and lay a dense plastic film on top and bring its edges to the upper concrete ring. Press the polyethylene firmly against the concrete ring and secure it with metal adhesive tape.

On top, cover the blind area with gravel, lawn or stone of your choice.

Video - Clay well castle

Recommendations for arranging the upper part of the structure

In conclusion, the design of the well head is performed. There will be enough sheathing from planed boards. This kind of design will perfectly cope with its main tasks, but it can hardly be called aesthetic.

The original houses above the country wells look much more interesting. The house is built using bricks. It is necessary to overlay the head of the well with them, and mount the roof from a suitable material on top, for example, rolled metal or boards.

In addition, a wide range of ready-made houses for wells from different materials is available for sale. You can buy a finished product or make it yourself, focusing on the available examples.

In addition to its main protective function, the house will become an additional decoration of your summer cottage.

Video - House for a well

In order for your country well to perform its work flawlessly for as long as possible, take the time to maintain the structure and care for it.

After each use, turn the water bucket upside down to prevent various debris from entering the container.

Fence off the perimeter around the well to keep pets out. Periodically inspect the interior of the well. If you find animals or birds in it, pump out the water, discard the found objects and disinfect the object.

To remove various debris from the water, use convenient and suitable devices, for example, a net with a handle.

Perform a complete cleaning of the well every 4-6 months. Start with a thorough cleaning of the concrete walls with a metal brush or a broom made from birch branches. After the wall, you need to rinse with clean water, and pump the water out of the well with a pump.

Video - Cleaning wells

Remove gravel backfill from the bottom of the country well. Rinse the backfill elements and lay them back. For final disinfection, apply a 3% chlorine solution to the walls of the well. Also, a chlorine solution must be added to the incoming water. Close the well for a day, and then rinse the walls of the structure and pump out the water as many times as necessary until the smell of bleach disappears completely.

Successful work!