Complies with the requirements of TU 4953-001-02903999-2014
AB 69.57.55.3
Purpose of the product
It is intended for filling a flush tank (popularly a drain tank) with water and supplying it for flushing into the toilet.
Security measures
The materials used for the manufacture of fittings, under operating conditions, do not emit into environment harmful substances and do not provide harmful effects on the human body through direct contact. Work with fittings does not require special measures precautions.
Specifications
- Operating pressure range, MPa 0.05 - 1
- Tank filling time in the volume of 6.0 l, no more than 2.5 min
- Level stability: change in water level when pressure changes by 0.1 MPa, no more, mm 5.0
- The diameter of the hole in the lid of the tank, 38 ... 44 mm
- Installed resource, not less than 150.0 thousand cycles
- Connection size G1/2-B
- Product weight, no more than 0.62 kg
Completeness
Fittings kit includes:
Product storage and care
The fittings should be stored in a packaged form in dry enclosed spaces at a distance of at least 0.6 m from heating appliances.
Not allowed to use detergents, which include abrasive, acid - alkali-containing substances, organic solvents.
Manufacturer's Warranty
Guaranteed service life of valves - five years from the date of commissioning, but not more than six years from the date of issue. Service life of valves - 6 years.
The product warranty does not apply if:
- its mechanical damage;
- installations in violation of the requirements of this manual;
- improper maintenance during operation:
- water inconsistencies technical requirements GOST 2761-84.
To increase the reliability and durability of the fittings, it is recommended to additionally install a filter in the water supply network.
Reinforcement installation
Fittings are supplied in assembled completed and configured to certain type tank
After installing the fittings, do not allow the moving parts of the valves to touch each other and the walls of the tank.
When connecting water hose to the inlet valve hold the valve from turning.
To avoid leakage from under the gasket, tighten the fixing wing nuts evenly on both sides.
Check that there is a gap of 3 - 19 mm between the tank cap and the button assembly, inserted all the way into the thread of the exhaust valve (without screwing in).
For reliable centering of the threads, before screwing in, make 1 - 2 turns counterclockwise until a characteristic click, which will show that the thread has “sat down” in its place.
- If the distance between the reservoir cap and the button assembly is beyond
limits 3 ... 19 mm, it is necessary to adjust the outlet valve in height
(see fig. 2 and the table for adjusting the height of the reinforcement), Disconnect the rod 23 from
overflow body 12. Squeeze cup latches 10 and move
racks 6 up and down achieve a gap of 3 ... 19 mm.
Attach the rod to the overflow body.
- To adjust the water level in the tank
disconnect the rod 2 (see Fig. 1), move
float up or down and reattach
drawn to him. Minimum distance between
water level and the upper edge of the tank 45 mm.
- After adjusting the water level in the tank, adjust the overflow pipe 7
(see Fig.2). To do this, unscrew the bayonet cover 9 and move the pipe
overflow to a position at which the risk on the pipe corresponds to the level
water in the tank. Tighten the bayonet cap.
* For long stem fittings
** when setting to this division, remove the overflow pipe 7
Rebar height setting table
| Rack scale division | Height H, mm | Rack scale division | Height H, mm |
| M** | 285-304 | 15 | 360-379 |
| 1 | 290-309 | 16 | 365-384 |
| 2 | 295-314 | 17 | 370-389 |
| 3 | 300-319 | 18 | 375-394 |
| 4 | 305-324 | 19 | 380-399 |
| 5 | 310-329 | 20 | 385-404 |
| 6 | 315-334 | 21 | 390-409 |
| 7 | 320-339 | 22 | 395-414 |
| 8 | 325-344 | 23 | 400-419 |
| 9 | 330-349 | 24* | 405-424 |
| 10 | 335-354 | 25* | 410-429 |
| 11 | 340-359 | 26* | 415-434 |
| 12 | 345-364 | 27* | 420-439 |
| 13 | 350-369 | 28* | 425-444 |
| 14 | 355-374 | 29* | 430-449 |
Possible malfunctions and ways to eliminate them
| Fault name | Probable Cause | Remedy |
| Valve does not close | ||
| Valve does not open | Clogged hole in slider assembly 5 - guide 3 | Disconnect the guide 3 and wash the assembly with the slider |
| Slow tank filling | Clogged filter 11 | Unscrew the water supply hose, remove the filter 11 from the housing 8 and rinse |
| Water is leaking into the toilet | Incorrectly installed bottom valve 13 on the overflow body 12 | Adjust landing bottom! valve 13 on the overflow body 12 J by turning around the axis |
| Loose nut 21 | Tighten nut 21 | |
| Overflow pipe set incorrectly 7 | adjust | |
| Rod set incorrectly 23 | adjust | |
NOTE: Due to the presence of various impurities in the water, the performance of the outlet valve may deteriorate over time due to sedimentation on its parts. In this case, it is necessary to disconnect the valve from the seat, flush it and reinstall it.
Valve drawings
Inlet valve (bottom connection) | Rice. one
Release valve | Rice. 2
Fittings for drain tank | Video instruction
Video provided by uklad.net
To write the article, I used the instructions that come with the fittings with the tank.
I also offer you:
Mounting the toilet lid | Video instruction
The video provides extensive instructions for assembling and installing toilet seats.
With plastic adjustable, with plastic non-adjustable fasteners, microlift and metal fasteners.
I wish you successful installation!
The internal filling of the tank is not a very complicated device, but its breakdown can significantly reduce the comfort for the residents of the house. It happens that everything looks normal, but the operation of the drain mechanism leaves much to be desired.
To troubleshoot problems, you need correct setting toilet fittings. This procedure must be performed when installing plumbing, and later the work of the drain must be periodically adjusted.
If you are faced with such a problem, our material will help you quickly solve it, without even resorting to the help of specialists. We will tell you how to set up a toilet flush device. For clarity, the material contains thematic photos and videos.
The principle of operation of a conventional tank is not complicated: it has a hole through which water enters and a place where water is discharged into the toilet. The first is closed by a special valve, the second - by a damper. When you press the lever or button, the damper rises, and the water, in whole or in part, enters the toilet, and then into the sewer.
After that, the damper returns to its place and closes the drain point. Immediately after that, it works, which opens the hole for water to enter. The tank is filled to a certain level, after which the inlet is blocked. The supply and shutoff of water are regulated using.
Fittings for drain tank is uncomplicated mechanical device, providing a set of water in a sanitary container and draining it when a lever or button is pressed
There are separate and combined designs of fittings that collect the volume of water necessary for flushing and drain it after activating the flushing device.
Separate and combined options
Separate version has been used for many decades. It is considered cheaper and easier to repair and set up. With this design, the filling valve and the damper are installed separately, they are not connected to each other.
To control the flow and shutdown of water, they use, in the role of which even a piece of ordinary foam is sometimes used. In addition to a mechanical damper, an air valve can be used for the drain hole.
A rope or chain can be used as a lever to raise the damper or open the valve. This is a typical option for models made in retro style, when the tank is placed quite high.
In compact toilet models, control is most often carried out using a button that needs to be pressed. For those with special needs, a foot pedal may be installed, but this is a rare option.
AT last years models with a double button are very popular, which allow you to empty the tank not only completely, but also halfway to save some of the water.
Separate version fittings is convenient in that you can repair and adjust individual parts of the system separately.
Combined type fittings are used in high-end plumbing, here the drain and inlet of water are connected in common system. This option is considered more reliable, convenient and expensive. If this mechanism breaks, the system will need to be completely dismantled for repair. The setup can also be a little tricky.
Materials for the manufacture of devices
At the bottom end shut-off valve there is a rubber gasket, the wear of which leads to a constant flow of water into the toilet
Sometimes the following unpleasant situation is observed:, moreover, the tank is either only partially filled, or it remains almost empty at all. Most likely, the locking mechanism, which is installed incorrectly or worn out, is to blame.
We replace the water drain mechanism as follows:
Image gallery
Constantly bubbling water in the tank and, as a result, the money that is paid for water supply flowing down the drain is a typical picture of a broken toilet. To solve this problem, you need to change the fittings for the flush tank. How to do this and how to choose the right one will be described in this article.
Everyone knows the sound of running water in the toilet. This sound indicates that it is time to repair the toilet. At first glance, the problem is very serious and insoluble without the appropriate knowledge and skills. However, this is only at first glance. In fact, toilet repair is most often the repair or replacement of broken cistern fittings. This procedure is simple and will not take you much time.
How is a flush tank arranged? In fact, it has two devices independent of each other - a filling valve (through which water enters the tank) and a drain column (it ensures the flow of water from the tank into the toilet bowl and, accordingly, flushing). The combination of these two devices forms the fittings for the toilet flush tank. Various manufacturers offer their models with some unique designs, different shapes and colors. Despite such a variety, it is important to understand that almost all of them are universal (the probability that a universal fitting bought in a store will suit you is about 95%). That is, knowing the type of yours, you can easily buy the fittings you need in any plumbing store. Within the framework of this article, fittings for built-in tanks are absolutely not considered. The fact is that they just do not fall into the above 95% of universal options.
And so, it remains only to find out what types of fittings are and how you can independently determine which one is needed in your case.
Types of cistern fittings
Since the reinforcement, as mentioned above, consists of two independent devices, the classification can be carried out according to:
- fill valve type:
- with lateral supply - the valve is mounted on the side wall of the tank. Accordingly, the filler pipe (flexible hose from water pipe to the tank) fits from the side;
- with a bottom supply - the valve is mounted on the bottom wall of the tank. The liner in this case is connected from below.
- Drain column type:
- with a button - to flush, you must press the button on the tank lid;
- with a stem - for flushing, the stem with decorative element at the end.
It should be noted that push-button columns, in turn, are also divided into two subspecies:
- With a single flush - one button. When pressed, all the water contained in the tank is drained.
- With a double flush - for such a column, the button is divided into two parts. Pressing one performs a flush using only half of the water contained in the tank, the other causes a full flush.
Fittings for a double flush cistern are considered more economical - you can choose the desired mode yourself. Columns with single and double flush are interchangeable, that is, nothing prevents you from buying and installing the one that suits you best, but it should be noted that the tanks have different displacements. With a small volume, a half flush may not be enough.
Under the push-button fittings in the lid of the tank, a hole of a larger diameter was made than under the stock. Therefore, in most cases, replacing a column of one type with a column of another will not work.
So, taking into account all the above, we get six types of fittings: with a stem with a side supply, with a rod with a bottom supply, with a single button with a side supply, with a single button with a bottom supply, with a double button with a side supply and a double button with a bottom supply .
Separately, it is worth dwelling on the fittings of the old model. Now there are still a lot of cisterns installed on the toilet with such fittings, or cisterns mounted on the wall and connected to the toilet with a pipe, in which old-style fittings are also mounted. It consists of a column with a stem (vertical or lateral) and a side filling valve. By virtue of design features and softer requirements for efficiency, the drain column from such fittings cannot be replaced with a modern one. It remains either to repair and adjust the fittings for the tank so that it does not let water through, and this is very difficult to achieve, or just buy a toilet bowl with a modern tank, which is more preferable, especially if you have a water meter installed.
Summing up, we illustrate all types of fittings:
Fill valves. From left to right: bottom inlet, side inlet, old style
Drain columns. From left to right: push-button, with stem, old-style
How to choose fittings for a tank
Now let's move from theory to practice. When it comes to buying new fittings for a flush tank, there is a completely natural desire to save some money. It often leads to some characteristic errors:
- Despite the fact that the fittings are universal, their designs from different manufacturers can differ greatly. Therefore, it is wrong to try to look for only one broken spare part. Most likely, you will not succeed, and you will only waste your time. Conclusion - buy only the whole. In extreme cases, bring the entire fitting element (column or valve) with you to the store. There is a small chance that such a spare part can be found, for example, from defective fittings.
- It is wrong to look for fittings for your particular tank, that is, exactly the same as it was. It is here that it is important to remember that they are universal, which means that knowing your type, with a high probability, any universal of the desired type will suit you.
Here the question arises, how to determine the type of your fittings?
To determine the type of inlet valve, just look at your tank, namely, where the flexible water supply hose is connected to it. If on the side, then you have a valve with a side supply. If there is no hose on the side, then the valve is with a lower supply. Look under the tank and see for yourself.
To determine the type of waste column, pay attention to what action is performed when flushing. If you press the button, then the push-button, if you pull the stem, then the column with the stem.
Determine the type of your fittings and choose the appropriate name for you (one of the above) - it is this that you will need to tell the seller when buying.
Most likely, in the store you will be offered a choice of several options from different manufacturers and, accordingly, with different prices. What to choose?
The price range is quite wide - from 150 rubles. up to several thousand. To choose a quality one and at the same time not overpay, you should pay attention to a few nuances:
- All connections of parts with each other must be strong. Detachable, as a rule, snap-on, should fit tightly into each other with a characteristic click. One-piece should not have backlash.
- The seals must be good quality. Feel them. Soft, plastic and at the same time elastic, they speak about the quality of both the gaskets themselves and, accordingly, the fittings in general.
- Complete set - fittings of acceptable quality come with all the parts necessary for installation, including bolts that fasten the tank to the toilet. In some cases, valves are completed with spare parts (usually gaskets). Pay attention to the quality of small things. Unscrupulous manufacturers do not pay due attention to it. As a result, the quality of components is low. This should alert you.
Generally speaking, you need to know that the price of acceptable quality rod valves starts from 10 USD. e., for push-buttons - from 15 c.u. e. At a price of 30 at. That is, you can buy very good fittings with an increased resource (as a rule, this is reflected in the extended warranty period).
So, the armature is bought, it remains to mount it.
Rebar replacement
Replacement of fittings begins with the dismantling of the old one. In some cases, there is no need to completely change the fittings. It is enough, for example, to change only the drain column or the filling valve. If you change the column, you will have to completely remove the tank. Replacing the filling valve will not require this. In any case, you must first dismantle the old elements. Let's take a look at this process step by step. specific example. As an experimental sample, let's take this toilet:
It can be seen that it has a one-button armature with a lower supply. The procedure for replacing any other, including a rod one, for example, with a lateral supply, will not differ much from that described. Differences in operations will be indicated.
All work begins with shutting off the water at the inlet to the tank or the entire water supply line. After that, it is necessary to flush the water in the tank into the toilet.
1. Dismantle the button. In our case, it turns counterclockwise. It happens that the button is attached to the lid of the tank. The cover will then be removed without dismantling it. Then just go to the second step. For rod fittings - unscrew the decorative knob on the rod and unscrew the trim that closes the hole in the tank through which the rod passes (of course, if it was screwed).
2. Remove the cover and see this picture. In the center is a drain column. Side filler valve. If the length of the supply hose is sufficient to remove the tank and put it on top of the toilet, then proceed to the next step. Otherwise, turn off the eyeliner.
3. The drain column is collapsible - it consists of two parts. To make it easier to carry out work, we dismantle upper part. To do this, rotate it by 90 ° (it will detach from the bottom with a snap off):
and take out:
Will stay inside Bottom part columns. On the sides of it are visible bolt heads that secure the tank to the toilet.
4. Unscrew the fixing nuts under the tank. As a rule, this can be done simply by hand.
After draining, a small amount of water will remain. When you unscrew the nuts, this water will flow out. So put on a rag.
5. Nothing prevents now to lift the tank up and put it on the toilet for the convenience of subsequent work.
The sealing gasket remained at the landing site:
6. The dismantling of the tank in our case could be done without first disconnecting the liner. If it is necessary to change the filling valve, then we perform this operation now.
Flexible hoses are wrapped and turned away by hand. The key is used only when absolutely necessary.
7. Unscrew the column fastening nut:
and valve nut:
8. We take everything out of the tank. Here, in fact, this is the dismantled fittings:
Now you can start installing the new fittings. All operations are performed in the reverse order, the only caveat - for convenience, it makes sense to put the gasket between the tank and the toilet on the mounting nut before installation.
The whole operation takes five to ten minutes. Threaded connections, as mentioned, are wrapped by hand and only if necessary are tightened with a wrench.
You can endlessly try to fix old leaking fittings, surprised every month with huge water bills, or you can spend 10 minutes and solve the problem for a long time by simply replacing the fitting completely. How to do it, you now know.
The water connection to the toilet tank can be made from below or from the side - this depends both on the design of the toilet bowl itself and on the features of the water supply system. Side connection cistern fittings are easy to maintain and reliable at an affordable price. At the same time, it performs its functions to the full, therefore, when arranging an inexpensive bathroom, it is appropriate to choose it.
Functions of fittings for the tank:
- automatic dialing the right amount water;
- draining a certain amount of water into the toilet;
- overflow protection.
It is easier to connect a side supply to the water supply system, especially when it comes to old houses, in which water outlets are designed specifically for such a connection. In modern universal fittings with a lateral supply, both the stem and the button can play the role of the descender.
Our offer
In Moscow, you can buy high-quality fittings with lateral connection in the Santekhkomplekt online store. We work with Russian brands ANI Plast, Incoer, RBM and Uklad, whose products are highly valued for their stable high quality and affordable prices.
On sale there are rod and push-button fittings, including dual-mode ones. If you need help in choosing or a hint on the characteristics of the model you like, call our managers and they will help you figure it out and place an order. You can find the number for your city at the top of the page.
Even the most reliable plumbing fixture can break. It is especially unpleasant if this is a product used daily by all family members. If the fittings of the toilet cistern are out of order, then you don’t want to wait a couple of days until the plumber comes, do you agree? Moreover, such a problem can be successfully solved on its own.
Before proceeding with the repair, it is necessary to understand the design of the tank, the device of the drain mechanism and understand the principle of operation of the spillway. The article discusses in detail all of the above points, as well as describes possible breakdowns toilet fittings and ways to eliminate them.
The toilet is the centerpiece of any bathroom. If you can do without a shower or bath using a ablution tray, then the toilet is an indispensable device not only for every family member, but even for some pets.
Therefore, it is simply necessary to know its features and device so that on Saturday morning you will not be alone with such a breakdown.
You can repair or replace the fittings of the tank with your own hands. The main thing is to turn off the water before starting work and read the manufacturer's recommendations for adjusting the design
Features of drain tanks
Tanks for toilet bowls differ in the material of manufacture, the method of installation and connection to the water supply, the type of location of the button / lever. And the price range of this type plumbing fixtures very wide - from inexpensive domestic models to exclusive design options well-known manufacturers of sanitary ware.
According to the material of manufacture, the following types of toilet tanks are distinguished:
- faience;
- plastic;
- cast iron.
The drain fittings used for toilet bowls are mainly made of plastic. This applies even to expensive models.
Only in exclusive options plumbers use metal fittings. Moreover, it is made of brass and bronze alloys.
faience cisterns received recognition and the greatest distribution around the world. It is this material that can most often be found in bathrooms, where a pair of toilet + cistern is installed.
Faience products are produced as domestic producers and well-known Western firms. Pick up the most best option for your bathroom is not difficult
plastic models drain tanks have a flattened shape. This is due to the specifics of their application - the so-called, when the flush device is installed in the wall. The design is reliable, easy to maintain and long service life.
Plastic tanks for toilets after installation must have an inspection window. It is usually located behind the flush button.
Cast iron tanks is a relic of the past. Heavy, bulky and unpresentable designs are still used by many zealous residents of our country. But during repairs, old cast-iron products are often replaced with a beautiful one. modern plumbing.
According to the method of connection to the water supply, there are tanks for toilet bowls with an upper and lower connection. The latter are more preferable - they look more presentable and create less noise during operation.
The top connection option is produced by many Russian plumbing companies. To reduce noise during filling after draining, the fittings have been improved
There are three ways to install the drain tank:
- top mount;
- installation in a false wall;
- on the toilet seat.
Top mount is a retro version. This arrangement of the drain device is used in bathrooms made in retro style.
Retro style toilet cisterns are very popular among bathroom owners. large area. In a modest bathroom, such a product would be inappropriate, and its price is very high.
Toilet installation is used for suspended models when the tank is hidden in the wall. This allows you to save space in the bathroom and harmoniously fit plumbing into the overall style of the bathroom / toilet room.
Embedded in the installation, hidden by a false wall, the cisterns differ more high price compared to inexpensive domestic faience sanitary ware
Installation on the toilet shelf is the traditional solution. These are the usual models of a plumbing pair, when the drain system is mounted on the shelf of the toilet bowl.
Advantages: simplicity and affordability. And the choice is very wide - you can choose both a domestic version and elite plumbing fixtures from Italian, French or German manufacturers.
A cistern on the toilet shelf is the most maintenance-friendly option. If there is a need for repair, then getting to the fittings is easy
The internal structure of the tank
Each cistern contains shut-off valves to control the operation of the toilet. For many models, fittings come with all the necessary fasteners and nuts.
According to the method of water supply and the installation location in the tank, the following types of fittings are distinguished:
- top eyeliner;
- bottom eyeliner;
- universal.
Top entry design built into the collection tank. A flexible tube for water supply is attached from above. This must be taken into account, because such fittings are not suitable for every model of a drain tank. Basically, only domestic manufacturers provide for top connections in their plumbing products.
Fittings with bottom connection comes with most western cisterns. Moreover, the design is plastic, but the quality of all components is high.
Most often, you may encounter such problems:
- filling does not occur;
- water constantly flows into the toilet bowl;
- lack of response when pressing the button / lever;
- leaks at the joints;
- weak drain pressure.
Problem #1. Filling does not take place if the inlet diaphragm is heavily clogged. Then you can not do without cleaning or replacing it. If the condition of the membrane is working, and the tank is not filled with working fluid, then you need to check the correct functioning of the float. Perhaps to come.
In built-in models, inspection, adjustment and repair of valves passes through an inspection hole hidden behind decorative panel with button
Problem #2. Water constantly flows into the toilet, increasing the meter reading cold water. This problem occurs when large debris or other objects enter the tank. Everything superfluous interferes with the normal operation of the filler valve of the tank. It is necessary to remove foreign objects from it.
It can also cause misalignment, loosening or breakage of the float. You can repair the float valve without much difficulty with your own hands:
Image gallery
Before proceeding with the repair of the float valve that controls the water supply to the tank, we shut off the water supply to it
We flush all the water from the toilet bowl by pressing the key, button or handle intended for this
The screws that attach the valve to the float, located around it, unscrew
If necessary, move the device holding the float of the toilet bowl
Remove the membrane or washer from the valve locking mechanism. If they are damaged, we change them to similar ones.
Using vinegar and a brush, instead of which you can take an old toothbrush, remove calcium and rust deposits around the float valve
We install the membrane or washer back, assemble plumbing fixtures, close the tank with a lid
We check the operation of the repaired float valve. If everything is in order, we proceed to operation
Step 1: Turn off the water supply to the tank
Step 2: Flushing all the water from the cistern
Step 3: Loosen the fasteners around the valve
Step 4: Float Holder Offset
Step 5: Removing the Washer or Valve Diaphragm
Step 6: Removing sediment around the float valve
Step 7: Reinstalling the Washer or Diaphragm
Step 8: Checking the function of the float valve
In the case when everything is in order with the float, you need to check the condition of other plastic parts of the armature - the rod, the diaphragm lever or the float spoke.
Problem #3. When you press the flush button, nothing happens. Here it is necessary to check the presence of gaps in those places where they should not be - at the joints. Also, plastic fittings may be broken, which is especially common in cheap models that have served for more than 3 years.
A common cause of a violation of the water supply to the tank is the inappropriate length of the drain and fill pipes or their damage. In dealing with the situation, we perform the following steps:
Image gallery
If the water enters the tank too weakly or splashes when it enters, we check the condition of the drain-overflow mechanism. The overflow tube should be approximately 1 cm below the drain button or handle
If splashing occurs when draining water from the tank, shorten the filling tube to the required length
If damage is found on the filling tube or its condition does not inspire confidence in long-term service, cut off a tube of equal length. It should be equal in diameter to the worn tube
We insert a new segment into the seat of the old filling tube, if necessary, adjust it in length
Step 1: Checking the position of the overflow tube
Step 2: Checking the condition and length of the filling tube
Step 3: Cutting the new filling tube for replacement
Step 4: Putting the New Tube in Place
Problem #4. Another trouble that occurs with the toilet cistern is leakage in places threaded connection. To eliminate this trouble, you will need to replace the sealing gasket. If this part has not yet had time to wear out, then you need to check whether the nuts are well tightened and if there are any distortions.
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