The need to create an armored belt under the Mauerlat during the construction of the roof is not always obvious to novice builders. They often create a misconception about the reinforced strengthening of the foundation for the construction of the roof as something unnecessary and superfluous. However, the armored belt is an important intermediary that distributes the load of the roof on the walls of the building. Consider why an armored belt is needed under the roof, what functions it performs and how to do it yourself.
In this article
The need for an armored belt
Let's start the consideration of the reinforced base under the roof with its main functions.
Load conversion
The rafter legs transfer the load to the Mauerlat, the main concentration of which is in the places where the rafters rest on the walls of the house. The task of the Mauerlat and armored belt is to transform this load, making it uniform. Mauerlat is affected by two types of loads. This is the weight of the roof itself, the snow accumulated on it, the impact of wind gusts on the roof and other natural phenomena.
Another load is associated with the bursting of the walls of the building by the rafters. With an increase in the weight of the roof, it increases significantly. Modern materials for the construction of buildings, such as expanded clay concrete, aerated concrete, with a number of positive characteristics, are not able to withstand such a bursting load. Before mounting a Mauerlat on them, it is imperative to create a reinforced belt.
Brick walls are more resistant to point loads, therefore, to mount a Mauerlat on them, it is enough to use anchors or embedded parts. However, experts recommend the use of an armored belt for brick walls if the building is being built in an earthquake-prone region.
Roof fastening to the house
The most important and main task of the Mauerlat is the strong fastening of the roof to the house. Thus, the Mauerlat itself must be securely mounted to the building. 
The main tasks of the reinforced base under the roof can be reduced to the following points:
- Maintaining the strict geometry of the building in all situations: seasonal fluctuations in the soil, earthquakes, shrinkage of the house, etc.;
- Alignment of walls in a horizontal projection, correction of inaccuracies and flaws made during the construction of walls;
- Ensuring the rigidity and stability of the entire structure of the building;
- Uniform and distributed distribution of the load of the roof on the walls of the building;
- Possibility of strong fastening to the reinforced base important elements roofs, especially Mauerlat.
Calculation of the reinforced base under the roof
The process of reinforcing the base under the Mauerlat begins with planning and calculations. It is necessary to calculate the dimensions of the armored belt. According to building standards, it should be a width equal to the width of the wall, and not less than 25 cm. The recommended height of the reinforced base is around 30 cm. The armored belt and the Mauerlat laid on it should encircle the entire house.
If the walls are built from aerated concrete, then the top row is made of stone in the form of the letter U, which creates the formwork. It is necessary to lay reinforcing elements in it and pour the entire structure with a cement solution. 
Before actually starting construction works it is also necessary to prepare necessary tools and Construction Materials. To create a reinforced base under the roof, you will need:
- Concrete mixer for high-quality mixing of cement mortar;
- A specialized vibrator that accelerates cement mortar in the formwork, preventing the creation of voids from the air in the structure;
- Materials for the construction of formwork;
- Fittings.
Installation technology
Installation of the armored belt begins after masonry work. It is necessary to wait for the masonry to dry completely.
Creation of formwork and laying of reinforcement
The first stage is the construction of formwork. In buildings made of aerated concrete blocks, the last row of masonry is made from blocks in the form of the letter U. If these are not available, then the outer part of the formwork is created from sawn 100 mm blocks, and the inner part is made from boards. Installation is carried out with strict observance of the horizontal level.
A frame of reinforcement is laid in the formwork. Its longitudinal part is formed from 4 reinforcement bars with a diameter of 12 mm or more. Transverse fasteners are made of rods of 8 mm in diameter, subject to a step of no more than 25 cm. In projection, the frame looks like a square or rectangle. The frame parts are mounted with an overlap of up to 20 cm. The joints are connected with a knitting wire. In solution, such a reinforced frame exists as a monolithic one.
Laying the frame provides for compliance with certain rules:
- The thickness of concrete from the frame to the formwork is not less than 5 cm;
- To comply with this rule, stands of bars of the desired height are placed under the frame.
An important part of the work is the strengthening of the formwork frame. If this is not done, then it will be crushed by the weight of concrete. This can be done in various ways:
Installing fasteners for Mauerlat
After working with the formwork and laying the reinforcement, you can proceed with the installation of fasteners for the Mauerlat. We recommend using threaded studs. It is convenient to purchase studs with a diameter of 12 mm. The length of the studs is calculated taking into account the fact that their bottom is attached to the frame, and the top protrudes 2-2.5 cm above the Mauerlat.
Installation of studs is carried out taking into account:
- There is at least one hairpin between two rafters;
- The maximum installation step is no more than 1 meter.
Pouring with cement mortar
The main feature of the reinforced base under the Mauerlat is its strength. It can only be reached by pouring concrete mortar at once.
For creating concrete mix concrete is used not less than M200. The best blend for filling the belt is prepared according to the following proportions:
- 1 part of cement M400;
- 3 parts of washed sand and the same amount of rubble.
The use of plasticizers will help to increase the strength and hardening rate of the mixture.
Since a lot of mixture is required to create an armored belt at once, it is advisable to use a concrete mixer and a special pump for supplying the solution. In the absence of equipment, the help of several people will be required for the preparation and continuous supply of the finished mixture.
After pouring concrete into the formwork, it is important to expel all air from possible air pockets. For this, a special vibrator device and simple fittings can be used, with which the mixture is pierced around the entire perimeter.
Mauerlat installation
Removal of the formwork from the armo-belt is possible as soon as the concrete hardens sufficiently, and installation on the Mauerlat structure can be started no earlier than 7-10 days after the armo-belt has been poured.
Before laying the Mauerlat parts must be prepared in a special way:
- Mauerlat beam is treated with antiseptics;
- Compounds it individual elements performed by the method of direct lock or oblique cutting;
- Mauerlat is applied to the armored belt and places for studs are marked. Mounting holes are drilled.
The laying of the mauerlat is preceded by covering the reinforced base with a layer roll waterproofing, as a rule, roofing material is used for these purposes.
Mauerlat is fastened with a large washer and nut; locknuts are used for safety. After tightening all the fasteners, the remaining tops of the studs are cut off with a grinder.
Summing up
A reinforced base under the Mauerlat is more of a necessity than a luxury. Roof structure has a rather large impact on the walls of the house, which, although distributed evenly due to the Mauerlat, can adversely affect the strength of the entire building.
The creation of an armored belt is necessary in buildings made of gas and expanded clay concrete due to the fragility of these materials, in areas with high seismic activity. It is also advisable to strengthen the walls under the Mauerlat when creating heavy roofing structures.
Reinforcement of the upper part of the walls is not hard work requiring the involvement of specialists. Subject to a number of rules and the involvement of assistants, it can be done on its own.
An armored belt is a reinforced concrete structure, which is designed to strengthen the walls of the house. This is necessary to protect the walls from loads arising under the influence of external / internal factors. External factors include wind exposure, terrain slope/hilliness, floating ground, and ground seismic activity. The list of internal factors includes all household building fixtures used for interior decoration at home. If it is wrong to make an armored belt, then because of these phenomena the walls will simply crack, and even worse, they will disperse. In view of this, it is very important to be aware of how to make an armored belt. The types, purpose and method of installing the armored belt will be discussed in this article.
There are 4 types of armored belt:
- grillage;
- basement;
- interfloor;
- under Mauerlat.
Before starting work, prepare tools / materials:
- Fittings.
- Cement.
- Sand.
- Rubble.
- Wire for bandaging fittings.
- Boards.
- Self-tapping screws.
- Brick.
- Shovel.
- Crowbar / crowbar.
In order for all the work you have done to be done with high quality, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the technique of manufacturing an arm mesh / frame and formwork.
In order for the armo-belt to be of high quality, and, accordingly, the house is reliable, you need to know how to properly make the armo-mesh / frame. The connection of the reinforcement bars to each other is carried out with a knitting wire, and not with a welding seam. This is due to the fact that during welding, the place near the weld being made overheats, which leads to a weakening of the strength of the reinforcement. But you can’t do without welding seams in the manufacture of the mesh. The middle and ends of the frame are welded, while the rest of the connecting nodes are connected.
The rods are fastened to fix the reinforcement in the required position when pouring concrete. For these purposes, a thin wire is used; the strength of the mesh / frame does not depend on it.
For the manufacture of armored belts, only ribbed rods are used. Concrete clings to the ribs, which helps to increase bearing capacity designs. Such a belt can work in tension.
To make a frame, take 2 cores with a thickness of 12 mm and a length of 6 m, while for transverse reinforcement you will have enough rods with a thickness of 10 mm. The transverse reinforcement should be welded in the center and edges. The rest of the rods just knit. After making two meshes, hang them so that a gap forms. Weld them from the edges and in the center. Thus, you will get a frame. For the manufacture of the belt, there is no need to weld frames. They are overlapped by 0.2–0.3 m.
The installation and fixing of the formwork is carried out by several methods. To install wooden shields, it is necessary to pass anchors through them, mount plugs on them using electric welding. The purpose of these actions is to fix the formwork in such a way that it does not squeeze out under the weight of concrete.
To fix the formwork when pouring the interfloor armored belt, a simpler method is often used. A screw with a diameter of 6 mm and a length of 10 cm should be fixed on the bottom of the shield. The distance between them is 0.7 m. So, attach wooden shield to the wall, drill a hole through it, insert a fungus into it and hammer in a screw.
The hole in the shield should be a little more than 6 mm in diameter. This is necessary in order to freely install the fungus.
The upper part of the formwork is also fixed quick installation. But in this case, you should screw in the self-tapping screw, not the screw. So, make a hole in the facing brick. Then drive reinforcement into it. If the brick is solid, then the situation is simpler - just drive a nail / rebar into a vertical seam. Tighten the self-tapping screw and fittings with a knitting wire. The distance between the fasteners is 1–1.2 m. Such a fastener is able to withstand the upcoming loads.
After the armo-belt hardens, the formwork can be removed using a crowbar / nail puller. In the warm season, concrete sets in a day. In this case, the formwork can be dismantled the next day. In the cold season, this procedure is carried out after a few days.
Initially, you should determine the depth of the foundation. This parameter depends on the type of soil, the depth of its freezing, as well as the depth of occurrence. ground water. Then you should dig a trench around the perimeter of the future house. This can be done manually, which is long and tedious, or with an excavator, which is quick and efficient, but entails additional costs.
After special equipment, the bottom and walls of the trench should be leveled to solid ground. The surface should be as hard and level as possible.
Now you need to form a sand cushion, the height of which should be 50-100 mm. If it is necessary to backfill sand more than 100 mm, it must be mixed with crushed stone. This event may be needed to level the bottom of the trench. Another way to level the bottom is to pour concrete.
After backfill sand cushion, it must be tamped down. To cope with the task faster, pour water over the sand.
Then the reinforcement should be laid. During the construction process, under normal conditions, reinforcement of 4-5 cores should be used, the diameter of each rod should be 10-12 mm. It is important that when pouring the grillage for the foundation, the reinforcement does not touch the base. It must be embedded in concrete. Thus, the metal will be protected from corrosion. To achieve this, the reinforcing mesh should be raised above the sand cushion, laying halves of the brick under it.
If you are building a house on heaving soil or where there is a high level of groundwater, then the grillage should be made more durable. To do this, instead of a reinforcing mesh, a reinforcing cage should be used. He imagines 2 grids, consisting of 4 cores with a diameter of 12 mm. They should be laid below and above the armored belt. Granular slag is used as a base instead of a sand cushion. Its advantage over sand is that over time, granulated slag turns into concrete.
For the manufacture of the mesh, a knitting wire is used, not a welding seam.
For the grillage, concrete M200 should be used. In order for the pouring height to correspond to the specified value, install a beacon in the trench - a metal peg equal to the height of the grillage in length. It will serve as your guide.
Before erecting walls on the foundation, the base armored belt should be poured. It must be poured around the perimeter of the building along external walls, but this cannot be done along the internal bearing walls. The base armored belt serves as an additional reinforcement of the structure. If you have filled the grillage with high quality, then the basement belt can be made less durable. The height of the armored belt is 20–40 cm; concrete M200 and above is used. The thickness of two-core reinforcing bars is 10–12 mm. Reinforcement is laid in one layer.
If you need to strengthen the basement belt, then use thicker reinforcement or install more cores. Another option is to lay the reinforcement mesh in 2 layers.
The thickness of the basement and outer walls is the same. It ranges from 510 to 610 mm. When pouring the basement armored belt, you can do without formwork, replacing it with brickwork. To do this, it is necessary to make half-brick masonry on both sides of the wall. You can fill the resulting void with concrete, having previously laid reinforcement in it.
In the absence of a grillage, it is useless to make a basement armored belt. Some craftsmen, having decided to save on the grillage, reinforce the basement belt, while using larger diameter reinforcement, which allegedly improves the bearing capacity of the house. In fact, such a decision is unreasonable.
The grillage is the foundation of the house, and the basement belt is an addition or reinforcement of the bearing capacity of the armored belt for the foundation. The joint work of the grillage and the basement belt guarantees a reliable foundation even on heaving soils and with high level groundwater deposits.
Between the wall and the floor slabs, you also need to make an armored belt. It is poured along the outer walls with a height of 0.2 to 0.4 m. The interfloor armored belt allows you to save on door / window lintels. They can be made small and with a minimum of reinforcement. Thus, the load on the structure will be distributed evenly.
If an armo-belt is installed on the walls of a material that does not take the load well, then the load from the floor slabs will be distributed evenly along the entire length of the walls, which will have a beneficial effect on their strength characteristics.
Reinforcement of the interfloor belt is carried out with a mesh of ribbed reinforcing bars 10-12 mm thick in 2 cores. If the wall thickness varies between 510–610 mm, then double-sided formwork can be used as formwork. brickwork, as for the basement belt. But at the same time, backing bricks should be used for internal masonry, and for external facing. In this case, the armored belt will have a width of 260 mm. With a smaller wall thickness, the backing brick should be laid on the edge or wooden formwork should be used instead, and with outside in the same way as in the previous case, the front brick is laid.
It is possible to fill in the armo-belt under the Mauerlat only after the glue / mortar for laying the walls has hardened. The technology by which the armored belt is laid on aerated concrete differs in the formwork device, but we will talk about this a little later. The manufacture of wooden formwork is carried out according to the scheme already familiar to you. Concrete is prepared according to the following formula: 2.8 parts of sand per 1 part of cement and 4.8 parts of crushed stone. Thus, you will get concrete M400.
After pouring, eliminate the remnants of air bubbles in the mass. To accomplish these tasks, use a building vibrator or pierce the liquid mass with a rod.
At monolithic device armored belts, you should follow the rules for attaching the Mauerlat. During the installation of the frame from the reinforcement, vertical segments should be removed from it to the height determined in the project. The reinforcement rods should rise above the armored belt by the thickness of the Mauerlat + 4 cm. In the timber, it is necessary to make through holes, equal to the diameter of the reinforcement, and threads should be cut at its ends. Yes, you will succeed secure fastening which will enable you to quality installation roofs of any configuration.
Aerated concrete is an alternative to brick, which has high thermal insulation qualities along with low cost. Aerated concrete blocks inferior to brick in strength. If, when arranging an armored belt on brick walls it is not necessary to pour concrete, since the reinforcement is laid during the laying process, then things are different with aerated concrete. We have already discussed how to make an armored belt on a wooden formwork, so in this subsection we will look at how to make a reinforced belt from D500 U-shaped aerated concrete blocks. Although it is worth noting right away that this technology is more expensive.
In this case, everything is extremely simple. Install the blocks on the wall in the usual way. Then reinforce their central part, and then fill it with concrete. Thus, the walls of your house will be more durable and reliable.
If you have any questions on the topic, then ask them to the specialist working on the site. If necessary, you can consult with our expert about filling the armored belt. There is personal experience? Share it with us and our readers, write comments on the article.
Video
You can learn how to make an armored belt for a house from aerated concrete from the video:
Armopoyas, also known as a reinforcing belt, a reinforcing reinforced concrete belt, a reinforced unloading belt, as well as a seismic belt - this is a solid reinforced concrete structure around the house, following the contour of its walls.
It consists of a frame made of reinforcement and wire. The frame is immersed in a mixture of sand, cement and gravel. This mixture is called reinforced concrete.
The armored belt is the same foundation, but it is located between the floors of the building. A correctly filled belt serves to give strength to the walls by redistributing the load from all elements of the building.
- with a shallow foundation;
- when building a building on a mountain or hillside;
- if there are rivers or ravines nearby;
- if the soil under the building is subsiding;
- in the zone of seismic activity.
Most often, the armored belt is poured when the last row is laid on the wall. building stone. It can be a gas block, foam block, cinder block and other fragile material. The reinforcing belt increases the resistance of the structure to the force of the wind, the shrinkage process of the house, and seasonal temperature fluctuations.
If it is not necessary to build an armored belt for walls made of cinder block, then a structure made of foam blocks and gas blocks must necessarily have an armored belt. It is impossible to attach a bar to the wall of gas silicate stone, on which they will be installed rafter legs. Only a reinforced belt will help.
For two-story house you will have to fill in 2 such belts. The first armored belt is poured after the laying of the walls of the 1st floor is completed. Slabs will be laid on it later ceiling. After the completion of the laying of the 2nd floor, the next armo-belt is performed. Supports for the truss structure will be attached to it.
Formwork for armored belt
The height of the reinforced belt is usually 30 cm. Sometimes it can be a little less or more. Its width is equal to the thickness of the wall. For the construction of formwork, boards with a thickness of 20 mm or more are used. The bottom edge of the board is attached to the outer and inside self-tapping walls. The upper ones are connected by scraps of boards. You should get a kind of trough 30 cm high. In several places, the formwork walls can be fastened together with a knitting wire. You can make fastening jumpers every m. They will not allow the boards to bend under the weight of concrete.
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Creating a reinforcement cage
The frame is assembled from horizontally laid reinforcement rods with a diameter of 8-12 mm. They must be ribbed. Concrete mass clings to such rods more tightly. They are laid out in 2 threads. On top of the longitudinal rods, transverse crossbeams are superimposed in the form of a ladder with a step of 70 cm. The frame is welded or connected with a knitting wire. In the corners of the building, the reinforcement can be additionally reinforced with corners welded to it.
The frame elements should go deep into the concrete by about 5 cm, so brick fragments are placed under the reinforcement from below to raise it. If the load is assumed to be quite high, not a ladder is used for reinforcement, but a three-dimensional structure of 4 longitudinal reinforcing bars, which are connected in the form of a parallelepiped. At the ends and in the middle they are connected by welding. The remaining connection points should be correctly connected with wire, since welding weakens the structure of the metal.
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Formwork pouring
It is recommended that before pouring the upper armored belt, lay pieces of wire in the formwork after 80-100 cm. It will be attached to the belt in the future wooden bars on which the rafter legs are installed. For filling use ordinary building concrete from a mixture of sand, cement and gravel. The proportions are approximately the following: 1 part of cement, 3 parts of sand, 4-5 parts of crushed stone. It is recommended to pour the entire formwork in 1 cycle. The solution must be periodically compacted by piercing it with a piece of reinforcement to release air.
In the hot time of the day, you need to water the structure abundantly and cover it. plastic wrap. This is done so that the concrete does not crack during intensive drying, and the moisture does not evaporate too quickly. So the concrete will quickly gain strength. After 4-5 days, the formwork can be carefully dismantled. But for the full maturation of concrete will take 2-3 weeks. It is recommended for a better connection of concrete with the wall to make a kind of hedgehog from nails hammered into blocks or pieces of wire.
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reinforced belt considered one of the most milestones construction of a block house. It is done at the end of each floor. The armored belt on aerated concrete gives rigidity to the entire surface of the house, “gluing” the entire structure together and strengthening the whole house.
If you are in doubt about own forces and skills, it is possible to invite specialists for these purposes, but those who are more or less versed in the construction business are quite capable of filling the armored belt, following the step-by-step instructions.
How to make an armored belt for aerated concrete?
To do this, you need to buy additional blocks 10 cm thick. outer side blocks are laid at home with glue, then from extruded polystyrene or from mineral wool a thermal circuit is arranged. Then blocks 5 cm thick or formwork in the form of plywood are placed inside the house. As a result, a home-made block is obtained, inside of which reinforcement for the armored belt is laid, from 8 to 12 diameters.
It is laid in the form of a rectangle, while the frames are knitted - two rods on top and bottom. In any market, you can purchase special fastening sprockets that are used in the work. This is done so that the reinforcement does not lie on the block itself, but is in the air - a so-called protective layer concrete, with a gap of 3 cm above and below.
After that, concrete is poured, carefully leveled and a ready-made armored belt for floor slabs is obtained. More detailed description can be viewed on the video, the photo also shows drawings, diagrams and step-by-step instruction for the fabrication of the structure.
If you look closely, studs are visible around the entire perimeter, to which the ceilings will subsequently be attached so that the roof is kept as evenly as possible and does not move to the sides. The length of the studs depends on the thickness of the overlap. As a rule, meter elements are taken and cut in half.
How to fill in the armored belt with your own hands? This question worries many, especially beginners. Probably, many are familiar with the picture when concrete is poured from a sleeve - a special concrete pump that delivers the material to the right place. But in most cases, the armo-belt device does not allow this task to be completed, since the concrete under pressure will fall from a great height, and the formwork can simply fly apart. Therefore, it is often necessary to use manual labor, no matter how difficult it is.
When pouring an armored belt in a house made of aerated concrete, the subsequent load should be calculated. If it is not supposed to be too large, you can save. The volume of the structure can be made smaller, but not by narrowing it, but by reducing the thickness. Experienced craftsmen they know how to correctly calculate the dimensions of the armored belt and reduce the cost of its manufacture, while not losing the quality of the entire structure, which is very important.
As for the fill, there is one more important advice. This process should be done once, and not in several visits. If this is not possible, then it is recommended to install special wooden lintels. When the time comes to pour a new part, the overlap is removed, the joints are thoroughly moistened, and only after that a new batch of concrete can be poured.
At the end of laying, it is necessary to compact the concrete mixture to eliminate voids. To do this, take a piece of reinforcement and pierce concrete with it. If work is done in the summer, high temperature, then it is recommended to cover the armo-belt under the Mauerlat with polyethylene so that moisture does not evaporate and cracks do not form on the surface.
In the construction of private residential buildings from block materials(brick, aerated concrete and others) for additional protection from movements and deformations of the walls and load-bearing structures an armored belt is always provided. This reinforced concrete structure, arranged along the entire perimeter of the building, reduces and redistributes external and internal stresses on the walls and foundation, resulting from seismic activity and ground movements, wind exposure, and stresses from the internal structures of the house.
Due to the likely changes in the soil and the features of the internal structure of the building, the walls in different parts of the house can receive different levels of loads that cause compression and torsion of the material. If the load reaches critical values, cracks form.
For low one-story houses the foundation copes well with the role of the armo-belt. But with a significant height of the walls (two or more floors), critical loads are created in the upper part, for the uniform redistribution of which a special additional structure is needed - a concrete belt with metal reinforcement. Its presence increases wind protection for the walls of the house and bursting loads from the mass of the upper floor and roof.
Expert opinion
Sergey Yurievich
Ask an expertThe practice existing in construction proves that the width of the armored belt is quite sufficient if it corresponds to the thickness of the wall. The height can vary in the range of 150-300 millimeters. For the construction, profiled metal can be used (corner, single-tee or double-tee beams, fittings). Note that the armo-belt itself in such a house or in an aerated concrete extension performs the functions of an I-beam, which is most resistant to stress.
Armor belt under Mauerlat
The functions of the armored belt under the Mauerlat are the same - ensuring the strength and reliability of the wall structure. Features of the design in its dimensions. As a rule, the minimum section is 250 x 250 mm, and the height should not exceed the width of the wall. The main requirement is the continuity of the structure and the same strength along the entire perimeter of the walls of the house: at a minimum, the armored belt must be monolithic. In order to achieve continuity, it is recommended to use concrete of the same brand for pouring (at least M250).
Mounting the Mauerlat to the armored belt
Expert opinion
Sergey Yurievich
Construction of houses, outbuildings, terraces and verandas.
Ask an expertThe easiest way to attach the Mauerlat to the armored belt is with threaded studs.
The diameter of the studs should be 10-14 mm. At the base, crossbars should be welded.
Using raw concrete to fill the armored belt under the Mauerlat, you should take care of the placement of the studs in advance:
- they should be rolled in advance to the reinforcing cage placed inside the concrete;
- the distance between the studs should be the same;
- so that the concrete does not contaminate the threads in the outer part of the studs, they must be covered with cellophane and wrapped with wire;
- that part of the studs that will be inside the concrete should be protected from corrosion - paint is quite suitable for this (oil or nitro-based - it does not matter, you can also use primer).
The outer part (length) of the studs should be sufficient so that, in addition to the Mauerlat itself, two nuts and a washer can be screwed to them. AT ideal the attachment points of the Mauerlat to the armored belt should be located as accurately as possible in the middle between roof structures. At the very least, the rafter legs should not coincide with the studs, otherwise you will get additional problems when installing the roof, so you should pay attention to the accuracy of marking and installation in advance.
Armopoyas for floor slabs
The presence of heavy floor slabs creates increased loads on the walls. To wall materials did not deform under their weight, an armored belt is used at the height of the junction of the floors. Such a reinforced concrete tape should be built under all floors around the entire perimeter of the house. The distance from the plates to the armored belt should not exceed the width of one or two bricks during construction brick buildings and other objects made of stone materials or with slag-filled walls (ideally - 10-15 cm).
Expert opinion
Sergey Yurievich
Construction of houses, outbuildings, terraces and verandas.
Ask an expertDo not forget that inside the armored belt under the floor slabs there must be a reinforcing cage. We will dwell on its features a little later. It is important that there are no voids in the armored belt under the floor slabs.
Brick armored belt (video)
Armopoyas made of bricks is an ordinary brickwork, reinforced reinforcing mesh. Sometimes, to enhance strength, the brick is placed not horizontally, but vertically on the ends. However, many craftsmen recommend making a brick armo-belt only in conjunction with a full-fledged reinforcement of the wall with a reinforced concrete belt.
Formwork for armored belt
For the formwork device, which is mandatory when pouring a concrete armored belt, you can use:
- factory structures (offered for rent by many construction companies);
- polystyrene (foam of fine porosity);
- shield prefabricated formwork from boards, moisture-resistant plywood or OSB.
Considering that the casting of the armored belt must be uniform and carried out simultaneously along the entire perimeter of the house wall structure, the formwork must also be mounted in advance on the entire object.
Expert opinion
Sergey Yurievich
Construction of houses, outbuildings, terraces and verandas.
Ask an expertIt should be noted that top part formwork should provide ideal horizontal position armored belt (this is especially important when it is necessary to correct the flaws in the masonry of the walls). Therefore, when constructing formwork for concreting the armored belt, a water level should be used.
Armopoyas under the roof
The functions of the armored belt under the roof can be formulated in the following paragraphs:
- ensuring strict geometry of the building box during shrinkage of the wall structure from seasonal soil changes;
- the rigidity and stability of the building;
- dispersal and uniform distribution of loads from the roof to the box of the house.
The armored belt under the roof also performs a function that provides the possibility of a strong fastening of the mauelat and truss system, installation of overlap (including - from reinforced concrete slabs) between the upper floor and the attic of the house.
Reinforcement for armored belt
Reinforcing mesh (framework) for the armored belt is necessary to strengthen and give greater strength concrete structure. Might have a square go rectangular shape by section. It consists of four working longitudinal rods and intermediate jumpers.
For fastening the reinforcement to each other, electric welding or knitting wire is used. The optimal diameter of the reinforcement is 10-12 mm. To increase rigidity, a separate rod is laid inside the reinforcing cage. Longitudinal jumpers are fastened together every 200-400 mm. To stiffen the corners of the armo-belt, an additional bent rod is inserted to each side of the corner of the wall at a distance of approximately 1500 mm.
Composition of concrete for armored belt
As we said above, concrete grade M250 and higher is suitable for the armored belt. The pouring of the structure must be carried out continuously, therefore it is more advisable to pre-order the delivery of the required amount by mixers at the nearest concrete plant.
Otherwise, you will need:
- two concrete mixers;
- sand;
- cement (recommended not lower than grade M400);
- gravel or crushed stone;
- water.
Two concrete mixers will be needed to ensure the continuity of pouring the armored belt with fresh concrete. There will also be a need for a concrete mix specialist and a number of auxiliary workers to load concrete mixers and carry ready concrete to the place of installation of the armored belt.
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