The main purpose of an extension to residential buildings is to increase the usable area and / or improve appearance. When choosing a material for walls, preference is given to lightweight foam concrete blocks, they are valued for their environmental friendliness, good insulating properties, ease of processing and finishing, high masonry speed and long service lines. The nuances of construction technology include correct docking a new foundation with structures already in operation, waterproofing the lower row and reinforcing subsequent ones, protection from moisture. The costs depend on the size and purpose, when contacting construction companies, the minimum cost of turnkey work is 12,000 rubles / m2.

This method of increasing the usable area is resorted to by both the owners of recently acquired buildings and those already in operation. The main nuance is the strength of the main structures; houses that have served for more than 15 years require an appropriate assessment. Any extension option changes the layout of the house, the development and approval of the project are mandatory steps. Depending on the functional purpose can be attached to an existing house:

• Garages, including buildings for two cars or with a carport.
• bath.
• Glazed or open verandas.
• Residential premises, including two-story outbuildings on special projects.
• Economic sites, workshops.
• Facilities for heating equipment or engineering systems.

The maximum effect is observed when the extension is attached to houses made of foam blocks or gas silicate, in this case the walls have the same thermal resistance. But with regard to other materials (brick, wooden beam) there are no restrictions, the differences concern only binding methods. To important conditions technologies refer to the same deepening of the foundation of the extension and the main house.

Calculation of the number of blocks

At the design stage, a sketch of the extension is drawn up, taking into account the laying of holes for supplying communications (if any). The number of required products is based on the area building structures and masonry schemes, when erecting them from two rows, it is doubled. Most often, the dimensions of the walls and openings are adjusted to the parameters of the foam block; U-shaped varieties are used for lintels above windows and doors.

The thickness of the interlaying seams is taken into account when installing on cement mortar(10-20 mm, depending on the experience of the bricklayer), when landing on a special glue, it is neglected. Recommended minimum stock blocks when buying is 5%.

Step by step construction technology

Work begins with determining the type of foundation and assessing the strength. The height of the annex should be 2-3 cm below the main roof, the roof is not tied. At the design stage, the place of the future passage into the foam block house is marked, ideally it coincides with an existing one or with a window opening, in which case the impact on the structures will be minimal. One of two methods of tying the foundation is selected: rigid, with the connection of metal rods to the old reinforcement frame, and with the help of an expansion joint - a layer of thermal insulation materials 5-6 cm thick. The second one is considered universal, in addition to its simple design, it is suitable for operating the extension on heaving soils. Further work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Marking the site with a mandatory check of the diagonals, earthworks.

2. Building a foundation. It is easier to attach a columnar base, but most experts advise choosing the same type as that of the house itself, ideally with the same depth. The latter, together with confirmation of the end of the shrinkage process and during construction on non-rocky soils, is necessary condition to perform a hard binding. To important nuances include the use of high-quality concrete for pouring, high requirements to the reinforcement cage, control and beating of the upper edge using the building level.

3. Waterproofing of the base, the first row is laid exclusively on a cement-sand mortar distributed over rolls or coating materials.

4. Construction of walls: starting from the corner, with the laying of metal in the grooves every 3-5 rows and filling the voids with glue, with a mandatory check and correction of deviations in level. It is desirable to attach a structure with matching rows to the house; with a common wall, it is fixed with brackets. Glue is smeared on both horizontal and lateral ends, voids are unacceptable. For the formation of openings, special U-shaped blocks are best suited, but it should be remembered that they are considered reliable and are allowed with a window or passage width within 1.75 m, no more. The stage ends with the installation of an armored belt, it is laid along the entire perimeter of the bearing walls made of foam concrete.

5. Floor installation: wooden for a small extension or light concrete slabs. In the first case, the upper edge of the walls is protected from moisture, all elements must be treated with compounds against fungus and fire. This stage is started no earlier than the curing of concrete poured in the armored belt.

6. Flooring of light roofing materials: ondulin, metal or shingles. Unlike the foundation and walls, the roof never joins the structures of the main house; The second option is considered the most reliable, but requires special skills or the involvement of specialists. The main condition is to exclude the slightest risk of leakage or accumulation of moisture at the joint.

7. Finishing work: plastering with vapor-permeable and weather-resistant grades or installation of ventilated facades.

Wall insulation is used if you want to attach a bathhouse or an object with similar moisture loads from foam concrete, in addition, it is required when laying blocks on cement-sand mortar due to the high thickness of the seams. In the process of masonry work and reinforcement, it is important to clean the rows of dust, this will reduce the consumption of glue. To eliminate the risk of moisture absorption, the products are lightly moistened with water.

When erecting and operating an extension, it is important to take into account the possibility of small shifts:

1. If necessary, the passage of communications at the joints of the walls of the pipe or electrical wiring is protected by corrugation or special gaskets, in some cases this stage is postponed until the end of the shrinkage process.

2. When choosing exterior finish preference is given to crack-resistant options: siding or thermal panels.

3. The risks of moisture getting inside the expansion joints are excluded.

Constructions made of heterogeneous material require special attention, in this case it is important to minimize the effect of shrinkage processes. Under an extension from foam blocks to brick house it is recommended to lay closed along the entire contour monolithic foundation, without hard binding. Reinforced reinforcement of rows is carried out (every 2, unlike the standard 3-5), non-shrink mortars are used for laying products. Max Height the attachment of the extension to the brick house varies within the ground floor. For connection with walls, reinforcement with a cross section of at least 6 mm is required.

To wooden house you can attach a rigid foundation, but not walls, exceptions are possible only with expert permission. The areas to be closed are treated with an antiseptic several times; stone wool. Alternative option is to perform a sliding fixation - using a system of longitudinal grooves. Walls wooden house in any case, it is advised to cover with a common well-ventilated cladding. Heterogeneous finishes are avoided, unless otherwise provided by the project for the purpose of decorative contrast. Optimal material siding is considered: protecting expansion joint from moisture, not cracking and affordable.

The cost of foam concrete blocks and masonry

Products are sold in pallets or by the piece, the minimum prices are given in the table.

Brand	Dimensions, mm	Quantity in a cube, piece	Price for 1 piece, rubles	Price for 1 m3, rubles
wall products
D400	600×300×250	22,22	113	2500
D600	600×200×400	20,83	130	2700
D500	600×300×200	27,78	92	2550
D600			94	2600
D800			102	2700
Partition blocks
D600	600×300×150	37	76	2800
	600×300×100	55,56	51

Masonry prices vary from 1200 to 3000 rubles per 1 m3 and depend on the complexity of the project, the height of the extension (in most cases they are one-story, but there are exceptions), the frequency of reinforcement and the remoteness of the object. The standard list of turnkey construction services includes laying the foundation, erecting walls and roofs, installing windows and doors, interior and exterior finish, supply of communications. When contacting specialists, you can attach a 2 × 4 m room for 100,000 rubles.

Filimonov Evgeny

Reading time: 8 minutes

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Advantages and disadvantages of foam blocks. Stages of construction. The subtleties of the construction of the building. How to legalize an extension. Competent connection of the extension with the main house.

AT recent times an extension to a house made of foam blocks is gaining popularity, but you need to know the features of its construction, as well as the advantages and disadvantages of the material. Which houses can be built on. Stages of construction. Required preparatory work. Fundamentals of building foundations and walls.

Correct installation of windows and doors. How to properly insulate walls and carry out finishing and construction work. Councils of builders for the construction of an extension.

Discussions important points construction. What is a reinforced belt. How to legalize an extension, how to correctly connect an extension and the main house.

An extension to a house made of foam blocks is most often used to increase the usable area, less often to improve external characteristics building. In addition, many developers appreciate this material for its distinctive properties.

This material is characterized by the number of voids, and the more of them, the more significant it retains energy-saving properties, which is confirmed by construction practice on the example of hollow bricks. The pores in the foam blocks are evenly distributed over each product. It is worth noting that the foam block, unlike standard aerated concrete, is considered the most suitable for the construction of an extension (not a full-fledged building). In fact, this type of room is an inexpensive and rational method of solving the problem of a lack of usable space, especially if it is built by oneself.

Advantages and disadvantages of the material

This material has increased strength and ease of use, is environmentally friendly and does not contribute to dampness. It is easy to put it on without a large number time costs.

In addition, foam blocks have such positive properties, how:

• installation does not require professional skills;
• the process of laying foam blocks is much less than that of brick or wood;
• does not burn, and meets absolutely all fire safety requirements;
• porous structure prevents shrinkage;
• has low thermal conductivity and cheap material;
• service life exceeds 50 years;
• easy to erect on difficult soils;
• easy to fit, easy to drill; has a low weight, which is important in the design and construction of the foundation.

Among such an abundance of positive characteristics, the foam block extension also has negative ones, namely:

• increased hygroscopicity necessitates the creation of special protection, otherwise there will be a rapid loss of thermal insulation properties;
• appearance, from which external finishing work is required.

What kind of houses can be made such an extension?

Before planning an extension Special attention builders focus on the strength of the premises. Professionals say that regardless of the type of building, which is more than fifteen years old, an extension to it is possible only taking into account a careful calculation of the strength of the room.

But since the extension refers to cadastral changes (re-planning), it requires individual project and coordination with local authorities in the form of permits for increasing the area of ​​​​the premises through construction.

Construction stages

The construction process is somewhat specific, and requires strict adherence to the sequence of its stages.

Preparatory work

Before the implementation of the extension of aerated concrete, they receive official permission to carry out construction in the relevant authorities. To do this, you first need to make a project of the planned part of the house. It is advisable to do this under the supervision of specialists in order to prevent major mistakes, or completely entrust them. As an extension, there can be a room, a kitchen, a loggia, a veranda, etc. During the construction of an extension essential elements the foundation and walls appear.

Foundation

The main thing in construction - right choice foundation and its competent pairing with the one already under the foundation of the building.

The construction of the foundation for the extension has its own nuances:

• The work is not done from scratch, which already causes some difficulties, including when pairing with an existing building under the main foundation.
• A rigid connection from reinforcement is performed with a well-established foundation, when the settlement of the extension has already occurred, and new foundation will not contribute to the critical draft of the entire room. Rigid docking is not advisable to perform in conditions of heaving soil.
• An expansion joint is considered to be a more economical joining method. It is columnar, tape and on screw piles. On the upper layer roofing material or other insulating material is laid.

Expert opinion

Filimonov Evgeny

Professional builder. 20 years of experience

Ask an expert

Important! Due to differences in load, it is recommended to carry out the foundation separately in order to prevent the occurrence of cracks due to seasonal heaving of the soil.

Walling

• it is better to moisten the lower side for better adhesion to the solution;
• many layers applied on 1 layer waterproofing compound, which serves to protect against moisture; then, before applying the second layer, the first is moistened;
• it is important to consider that the first row must be made with strict adherence to the vertical and horizontal position, because the quality of the construction of walls depends on it;
• all horizontal errors are recommended to be leveled with mortar;
• so that the seams are about 1 mm, the foam blocks are placed on glue; minimization of seams is necessary to minimize "cold bridges";
• the mixture should be done strictly according to the instructions and applied first to the horizontal part of the foam block, then to the vertical;
• all blocks must be aligned on both planes;
• the resulting rows are aligned horizontally with a special grater for grinding, and the dust that has appeared is swept away;
• every five rows, reinforcement is placed in the corners of the extension, which contributes to the bonding of the structure and the prevention of cracks.

Making an extension to a wooden house is not at all as difficult as it seems at first glance, but before you start doing your plan, you need to decide on the material from which the extension will be made. Foam blocks are considered the most popular building material for building extensions.

An extension to the house is one of the easiest and most rational ways to expand your living space.

Advantages and disadvantages of concrete blocks

Advantages of using foam concrete blocks: high level thermal protection, good sound insulation and fire resistance, lightness compared to other building materials, strength, ease of installation, simplicity and low cost of finishing after the construction of the building. In general, the technology for building an extension from foam blocks is similar to brickwork. However, an extension made of foam blocks in most cases is cheaper than a brick one: firstly, due to the lower cost of the material and lightness, which allows you to save on the foundation without sacrificing safety; and secondly, thanks to a simpler construction technology than brickwork. Installation of foam blocks does not require special skills, it takes less time and effort to lay the blocks. Also, foam blocks are environmentally friendly, safe for humans, have low thermal conductivity, are not flammable and practically do not shrink.

But the foam block has one significant disadvantage: It is prone to freezing in areas with harsh climates due to its high hygroscopicity. However, this is a solvable problem; during construction, it will be necessary to take more care of the waterproofing and thermal insulation.

Features of the construction of an extension

Before starting construction, it is necessary to conduct an examination of a wooden building. At the same time, the walls are checked and rotten logs are replaced in the processes. Also find out the depth of the existing foundation and its dimensions.

Before the construction of the foundation of the annex, next to the existing foundation, a small trench is dug, and reinforcing bars are introduced into the foundation itself to fasten the future foundation to the present one.

Construction of the foundation and walls of the annex

The first step is the foundation.

Foam blocks - relatively light construction material, which allows you to arrange a simpler foundation.

Depending on the height of the extension, a tape or monolithic type of foundation is chosen. But it is important that the construction of the foundation of the extension is similar to the foundation of the main building. The depth of occurrence, the values ​​of shrinkage of the foundations must match. Before starting the laying of the concrete solution, formwork is arranged, which is removed only after the composition has solidified (about three days). On the surface of the foundation, waterproofing must be tripled (for example, a layer of sealing mastic with insulation and a bituminous layer). Then the ruberoid layer is laid. To connect the foundation with load-bearing walls, reinforcing pins with a diameter of at least 12 are most often used.

It is best to start building walls a year after the foundation is completed - this will reduce the inevitable subsidence of the foundation. The construction of the walls of the extension is carried out in a similar way. brickwork. As a binder, a cement-sand mortar or a special glue is used, which is selected depending on the construction season. To avoid the occurrence of cold bridges, the thickness of the seam between the blocks should not exceed 3 mm. Laying is done layer by layer, starting from the end. If the annex is planned to be converted into a boiler room in the future, then the walls must be insulated without fail, polystyrene foam or mineral wool can be used as a heater.

Foam blocks are environmentally friendly, cost-effective and efficient in construction.

The key moment of construction is the connection of the extension with the outer walls of the wooden house. Most often, reinforcing bars with a diameter of 10 and above are used for this. Every three rows at the ends of the building saw holes with a diameter of 60 mm, a depth of 50 mm. Then a hole for the reinforcement is knocked out, which is filled with glue. Thus, the foam block extension will be connected to a wooden building. If desired, you can not connect the walls at all - just lay a gap between them mineral wool or any other insulation or mounting foam, and close the space itself with a plank or bars that are stuffed onto the walls of the house on both sides of the extension. A few years after the construction of the extension, the connections are made rigid with metal fasteners.

Installation of ceilings and roofs, facade decoration

For the installation of additional floors, you can use both slab flooring and flooring along wooden beams. It is best to use aerated concrete slabs or hollow concrete slabs. For beam ceiling best solution will become pine timber, which must necessarily be treated with an antiseptic and fire-fighting impregnation - so the timber floor will last much longer. For the installation of the ceiling, filing is made of plywood sheets, light boards and chipboard.

After the completion of the construction of the extension, you can proceed to the insulation and decoration of the outer walls. Most often, expanded polystyrene panels are used for this, and siding, lining, decorative rock with pre-plastered walls.

It is better to make the roof of the extension uncontinuous. The covering of the extension is carried out 20-30 mm below the roof of a wooden building, I overlap it, which will not allow snow and rain to penetrate under the roof. As a roofing material, it is best to choose light metal tiles or a profiled sheet so as not to load too much. bearing walls. As constructive solution choose a simple pitched roof, which will be easy to erect and will not require significant costs for design and construction. At the same time, a Mauerlat is laid on the top layer of blocks, which is fixed on the walls. Then rafters and diagonal ones are installed on the Mauerlat rafter legs, on top of which the crate is fixed. The selected one is placed on the crate roofing material. Rafters are best secured with a sled, and not metal corners. This will avoid the inevitable settlement of the building displacement of the roof.

An extension to a foam block house is one of the easiest and most rational ways to expand your living space.

Obviously, the implementation of an extension from foam blocks is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. The main thing is to choose correct design foundation and observe the technology of masonry construction. Then there should be no problems during operation and the extension will serve for many years together with the main wooden building.

It's good to have a home. But it's even better when it has as much space as your heart desires. If there is a deficit with it, then you can safely build an extension. In our country, foam concrete is rightfully one of the best wall materials.

Recently, he not only showed himself with better side but also earned a solid reputation. So what is he like?

A little about foam blocks

The first thing you need to know about this material is its strength characteristics and brand classification:

• D150 - D500 - blocks for thermal insulation work. Grades below D400 are not standardized for strength. And D400 blocks can withstand up to 9 kg per cm 3. Accordingly, it can be assigned a strength class from B0.5 to B0.75. Such foam blocks are not used as the main wall material. Due to its low density, these foam concrete products are an excellent heat insulator;
• D600 - D900 - blocks for structural and thermal insulation work. Foam concrete of this category, depending on the grade strength, can be assigned a class from B1 to B5. Such heat blocks are strong enough to experience severe deformation loads. Recommended brands of foam concrete for the construction of main walls - D800. With such a relatively low density and sufficient strength characteristics, the walls of such products will be heat-intensive and reliable;
• D1000 - D1200 - blocks for structural work. They are high-strength material with classes B 5 to B 12.5. In private construction, such grades are used quite rarely due to their rather low heat capacity.

All the pros and cons of foam concrete walls

To build a reliable building from heat blocks, you need to clearly know all their positive and negative qualities to skillfully emphasize the former and smooth the latter.

Advantages:

• The main advantage of this material is its increased ability to retain heat indoors. Foam concrete owes this remarkable quality to its unique structure. If you look closely at the body of the block, you can see a lot of hollow bubbles filled with air. And as you know, an air cushion - the best insulation. With an increase in the density of foam concrete, the number of cells decreases, respectively, its thermal conductivity becomes lower and the grade strength increases. But even high-strength blocks have a thermal conductivity index an order of magnitude higher than the heat capacity coefficient ceramic brick.
• Light weight is another distinguishing feature this wall material. In comparison, its indicator is two and a half times lower than the weight of expanded clay blocks. This quality allows you to save on the transportation of foam concrete and on the use of heavy equipment.
• The frost resistance index is high enough for the construction of capital walls. The lowest grade is M15.
• The strength of foam concrete allows you to build reliable walls, however, not higher than three floors and only if the walls are reinforced.
• The degree of workability is high. This foamed concrete is easy to cut.
• Fire resistance. Foam concrete was awarded the first degree of fire resistance. He is able to hold open fire from spreading for four hours. In addition to the fact that it does not burn, it does not emit toxic substances and suffocating smoke during the destructive effect of fire.
• Environmental friendliness. Foam blocks are made only from non-toxic materials that are not subject to decay. Also, heat blocks do not create a favorable environment for the development of mold and pathogenic organisms.
• The prices for foam blocks will pleasantly surprise you. They are two times lower than the cost of ceramic bricks. However, beware of cheap products. Perhaps they are made in violation of technology, which significantly affects their quality.

Flaws:

• Shrinkage is the real trouble of foam concrete. It can be from one to three millimeters per meter of the wall being built. As a rule, foam blocks shrink within 28 days, after which this indicator stabilizes. Therefore, it is recommended to age the products before sending them to the construction site;
• Edge fragility. Even after gaining full brand strength, heat blocks can chip at corners during impacts and uneven loads. Therefore, care should be taken when transporting and working with them;
• Low UV and weather resistance.

What extensions can be built from heat blocks

With the right choice of a brand of high-quality foam concrete, you can build diverse extensions to the main building:

• Living quarters, verandas and bathrooms. nodes. From the foam blocks are obtained great houses. So why not increase usable area with them?
• Boiler room. Many houses have entire rooms for heating equipment. Thanks to good fire-resistant properties, an extension for these purposes will be safe and reliable.
• Bath. Foam concrete perfectly holds heat, which is the main criterion for wall material bath room. It will only be necessary to properly organize hydro- and thermal insulation.
• Garage attached to the house- it's a queue economical solution. First, costs are reduced by common wall, secondly, the heating system is simplified and, thirdly, convenience.
• Utility rooms for keeping pets and poultry. Foam blocks for these purposes are an excellent option. The extension of them will be dry, warm and comfortable. Just what you need for a home farm.

What is the cost of an extension of foam blocks

The excellent characteristics of the buildings are not yet the determining criterion for the choice of material. It is also important that it be no less economical in construction. It should also be taken into account that the cost of building the building itself is only a third of estimated cost the entire project.

Large investments require electrical, roofing, foundation, plumbing and gas works. The exact cost in your particular case can be found in construction organizations. And the rest of the calculations associated with the construction of walls can be done by yourself.

Example of calculating the cost of materials

Depending on the climatic area of ​​\u200b\u200bresidence and the purpose of the extension, we determine the thickness of the walls. So for residential premises, as a rule, masonry is used in two blocks, for the rest of the outbuildings one will be enough:

• Step 1. Calculate the volume of the walls. To do this, you will need to multiply their total length by the height and thickness. For example, the length is 20 meters, the height is 3 meters and the thickness is 0.3 meters (in one block). 20 * 3 * 0.3 \u003d 18 m 3. From this value we subtract the area of ​​windows and doors. Suppose we have a deaf extension.
• Step 2. The resulting value is multiplied by the cost. On average, it is about 2500 r. 18 * 2500 = 45000 rubles
• Step 3. Glue calculation. Usually 20 kg of cool composition is consumed per 1 m 3 of foam concrete. The price of a 25-kilogram bag averages 300 rubles. Accordingly, 20 * 18 / 25 = 14.5 bags. We round up to 15. Total 4500 rubles.
• Step 4. The cost of the solution. According to technology, the first row is laid on concrete composition. Let's calculate how much it will take for a seam of 2 cm. 20 * 0.02 * 0.3 \u003d 0.1 m3. For such a volume, you need 1 bag of Portland cement and 11 buckets of sand. Their cost is approximately equal to 500 r.
• Step 5. As a result, we get 50,000 rubles. to this amount we add roofing, foundation, electrical, heating work, doors, finishes and get the final cost.

Guide to the construction of buildings from heat blocks

After drawing up drawings and calculations, you can proceed to actions, namely laying the foundation and connecting the walls to the main building. If you have a house made of foam blocks, this is not difficult. It will be much more difficult for the owners of stone and wooden buildings.

Features of the construction of an extension to a wooden building

To properly connect the foam block extension to wooden building you need to clearly follow the basic algorithm of actions:

• Conduct a detailed analysis. First, carefully inspect the walls for rotten logs. If necessary, they are replaced, and the walls are strengthened. It is also necessary to carefully examine the foundation, find out its type and size.
• Fasten the foundation. So that the bases and walls do not deform during the shrinkage of the extension, you need to make their connection. for this, it is necessary to dig a trench under the main foundation and drive reinforcing bars into it at the rate of 5 pieces per 25 cm 2. The same fittings are mounted in the basis of a new building.
• Rigid wall connection is not required. It is enough to lay the space between them with a heater.
• The roof is also not connected due to shrinkage. The roof of the extension is arranged below the main building. Due to the overlap, moisture does not get inside the room.

Features of the construction of an extension to a brick building

1. If you plan to lay the same type of base for an extension at the same depth as the main one, then it is best to connect them with reinforcement, in the same way as indicated above. If the foundations are located at different depths, then cracks cannot be avoided. But they can be closed cement plaster. Sometimes a masonry mesh is laid under it.

   It is very important that the plaster turned out to be of high quality. It will require Portland cement M400, fine sand and lime milk. The components are taken in the following proportions 1:9:2. Everything is thoroughly mixed. If the mortar partially remains on the shovel, then you have correctly prepared the plaster.

2. Connect foam concrete walls with a brick masonry grid every four brick rows. To do this, holes are drilled in advance and the ends of the mesh are embedded there and filled with mortar.
3. If you are making an extension to a building to a height of more than one floor, then the connection can be omitted. Cracks will still appear due to increased load and deformation shrinkage.

Foundation pouring

• Step 1. Having dealt with the connection of the building, we proceed to laying the foundation for the building. We start with marking and removing the soil. Remember that the distance between the bases of the building and the extension should be an average of 5 cm. To keep it, you can put a board wrapped in polyethylene between them during pouring.
• Step 2 Then we proceed to dig a trench around the entire perimeter. The depth should be 50 cm, and the width should be a couple of centimeters more than the thickness of the block.
• Step 3 We lay a 10-centimeter gravel cushion on the bottom and tamp it well. We fill it with sand and also compact it.
• Step 4 We drill holes in the old foundation, lay reinforcement there and concrete.
• Step 5 We lay the welded reinforcing cage in the trench.
• Step 6 Cooking concrete mortar in the proportions of cement, sand and gravel 1:3.5:5 parts. Pour the resulting solution, vibrate it and smooth it down. Cover with foil and let rest for 5-6 days. Ideally, it's best to let the foundation settle before building the walls. This takes about a year.

Wall laying

Before installing the blocks, it is necessary to carefully waterproof the base. To do this, most often use the usual roofing material in several layers:

• The first row is laid on the cement mortar. Begin its construction from the corners of the foundation. It is very important to do everything right, because the evenness of the entire building depends on this row. When it is completed, the remaining rows are laid on glue-cement.
• Every 3 rows, the blocks are reinforced. To do this, grooves are made in them, into which reinforcement is laid and filled with mortar. A concrete lintel is required over each opening.
• When the laying of the walls is completed, the armored belt is mounted and the floor slab is laid. Upon completion of these works, it is necessary to proceed with the facade cladding so that the blocks are not deformed under the influence of precipitation.
• In conclusion, the construction of an extension is not an easy task. Therefore, it is important to follow all the rules during work. Especially at the stage of laying the foundation.

If you attached in the summer to your one-story house veranda and, for example, equipped there comfortable kitchen, and with the advent of cold weather, the corners of the extension freeze and turn black - so it's time to think about how to insulate the veranda.

How to insulate a cold veranda?

It must be said right away that the problem of insulation will have to be approached on a large scale, that is, you cannot do without wall insulation alone. It is necessary to work both with walls and with the floor, with the ceiling, windows. Well, let's get started.

Perhaps we should start with a list of what we need to work. Warming the veranda usually means that you will need, naturally,

Cook:

• pencil, tape measure, nails, hammer, dowels, hacksaw, construction tape, spatulas and putty.

Well, and buy insulation material:

• It can be penofol or some other analogue of it, polystyrene foam sheets (in other words, polystyrene) or mineral, basalt wool, polyurethane foam, or maybe resol foam.

All these materials have suitable characteristics. The thickness of the insulation layer will depend on the wall thickness of your extension. You define it yourself.

And yet, what is the best material for insulation?

Most often when warming attached veranda use mineral wool and. The latter, in case of possible contact with fire, will release very dangerous carcinogens, so this fact should not be ignored. Why is it still quite often used as a heater, because foam sheets are still the most affordable. This is a budget option.

How additional insulation you can add a foam pad. With the help of a metallized layer, the penofol will reflect the cool air from the street, and besides, it will keep the heat inside your veranda. This material is a high-tech heat-insulating agent, it consists of a layer of foamed polyethylene and a high-quality aluminum foil covering it. This "reflected" material can even be used as a separate independent thermal insulation. But maximum effect heat preservation will be given by combining it with other types of heaters.

Effective options for insulation are rezol foam, basalt wool and polyurethane foam. These are non-combustible materials. Therefore, when you decide how to insulate the veranda, we advise you to pay attention to these heaters.

Step 1: window insulation

Insulation of the veranda, like any other part of the house, begins with windows. First, you need to pay attention to the windows. Do the existing windows retain heat well? Not? We replace! Old windows need to be removed and good, high-quality ones installed that will keep the heat in the veranda.

Which windows should be chosen - wooden, aluminum or plastic - this question is described and after studying the materials you will make your own choice. AT this case the very fact that they will be better than your old windows in terms of thermal insulation properties is important to us.

Step 2: wall insulation

When you have determined for yourself the better to insulate the veranda, then it is with this material that you will cover the walls. On the walls (and also possibly on the floor), you fix sheets of insulation (polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, mineral wool, etc.). Here you will need dowels with large diameter caps, you can also use small wooden plates so that the dowel caps do not go into the foam sheet. If this happens, then the insulation will no longer hold. At the joints of the sheets, close the gaps with mounting foam, and then remove the excess, glue it on top masking tape(You can also use the regular one).

ATTENTION: use mounting foam free of toluene. This substance destroys the foam.

What is the best way to insulate walls: inside or outside?

Before starting work on wall insulation, many beginners (and not only) have a question: where is it better to insulate a wall, outside or inside? Better than words This point will be clarified by the illustration below:

although this is not immediately obvious to everyone, it is better to insulate walls from the outside

Step 3: laying the vapor barrier

This step is recommended but not required if saving is important to you. It consists in attaching a foil film. attached with glue or double-sided tape. The reflective foil layer will keep the heat in winter period and coolness in summer.

Step 4: make the cold floor warm

In conclusion, we mount the floors. The idea is to put concrete screed. But you can simply lay the floor from the boards and linoleum or carpet on top of it. If your budget allows, then you can make a "warm floor".

In addition, you can use the tips described in the publication about.

The final stage

As a finish, you can use the most different variants. For example, fix a crate on the walls, and sheets of drywall on top of it. What to do with the warm cold veranda Beyond that, only your imagination will tell.

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Discussion:

Vladimir M. said:

Last year, I also insulated the veranda, and now it does not heat up in the heat, it is always cool and relatively warm in winter. In principle, I did almost everything as described in this useful information for those who have never done it before. I insulated from the inside, first “Izospan” is a vapor barrier, nailed the bars 50 to 50, then put in Ursa mineral wool, again a layer of vapor barrier and then sheathed with clapboard. Of course, the area of ​​​​the veranda decreased, but the result was positive, which I wanted to achieve. And I chose mineral wool because mice do not like it, it is very unpleasant when they get between the walls.

Alina said:

During the repair, we also faced the issue of warming the apartment (we have an old building, two-story, an apartment on the second floor). At first they decided to insulate inside, insulated with mineral wool. For the money, of course, it turned out to be more expensive, but there is more confidence that it will not freeze, and animals (mice, bugs, spiders) will not start. Then the foam and drywall were laid. With the remaining money, they decided to insulate the outside as well. Because we have heating system, then the gas consumption is minimal, and the house is very warm.

Valiliy 2013 said:

Styrofoam is suitable where it can be glued with glue on brick wall. wooden plots insulate with mineral wool. Warming will be successful if you end up with a thermos. Sometimes it seems that it is easier to build a new veranda than to insulate the old one.

Irina said:

Warming should be both inside and outside. Saves money for utilities. share mine personal experience. First, they insulated the walls with ecowool, then sheathed the walls with drywall. Ceiling insulation is also the same materials. The floor was made warm - electric. They also insulated the outside with foam plastic (5th). Now cozy and warm. It turned out winter Garden for flowers. Try to take high-quality and environmentally friendly materials for interior decoration.

Igor said:

It is definitely necessary to insulate from the outside, because the air penetrates from the street, you can use glass wool, min vartu, etc., pay special attention to the floor and walls, they can be smeared with resin, then the wood will be strengthened and there will be a pleasant smell, it is worth paying attention to the windows, they also play a major role in keeping warm.

Andrey said:

I know on own experience and advise you.
When warming, it is best to use mineral wool. Expensive? but high quality and environmentally friendly. Styrofoam will not give you such a result, and you are tormented (gaps remain, you won’t cut it exactly anyway). If you undertook to insulate, pay attention to the windows - metal-plastic windows most best option. And if you want to double insulate the veranda, then insulate it from the outside. After all, it was not for nothing that our ancestors for the winter surrounded the house with dry stalks of reeds or corn.