Scaffold construction. How to make scaffolding with your own hands. Do-it-yourself scaffolding: advantages

Reading time ≈ 4 minutes

Before you start building scaffolding, you need to decide what material they will be made of, and what type of scaffolding (more precisely, the method of fastening) you actually need.

Today there are two materials from which you can make scaffolding with your own hands. It's either wood or metal. Accordingly, finished structures can be either metal or wooden. But if we consider the methods of attaching the elements of these forests, then there will be more varieties. It:

  • Frame forests. They are in demand when carrying out plastering work.
  • Wedge scaffolds are indispensable when working with heavy loads, and they can be easily disassembled.
  • Clamp scaffolding - used when working on objects with a complex configuration.
  • Stud forests. This variety is especially popular, as such forests are quickly assembled and disassembled.

Having decided on the varieties, you can move on to the question - is it worth building even the simplest scaffolding with your own hands, or is it still entrusted to the masters of their craft. In the case when your decision is definitely economical, you can see detailed photos and videos of ideas on how to quickly and efficiently assemble scaffolding yourself. By the way, in the same place, you will find a hint on how to store them later, or disassemble this structure, until the next use.

Scaffolding drawings

In general, you need to understand that assembling scaffolding with your own hands, drawings can greatly facilitate the task. Acting according to the existing scheme, you will quickly cope with the installation. The only thing to learn is that any forests are made up of elements such as:

  • main racks;
  • horizontal and diagonal braces necessary for structural strength;
  • floor jumpers;
  • board flooring (support) on which a person should stand;
  • reliable stops;
  • obligatory fencing in order to avoid falling from a height;
  • stepladder for lifting to the desired height.

As you can see, it’s not so difficult to master and assemble scaffolding with your own hands. But is it worth it? Indeed, in most cases, these structures are not some goats-platforms, but serious structures designed to perform heavy work at a certain height.

Scaffold assembly instructions

In this case, the assembly of scaffolding involves the use of wooden materials, since few people would think of assembling metal scaffolding in summer conditions, unless they are ready-to-assemble elements that are small in size.

And do-it-yourself wooden scaffolding can be useful only for work at a level not exceeding the second floor and mainly for repair and facade work. Their use in more difficult conditions and under heavy loads can be not only impossible, but also dangerous. Nevertheless, so that you still do not get confused in the assembly steps, we suggest that you use the assembly instructions for the simplest design.

First of all, you should remember the approximate values. Namely:

  1. The distance between the racks should not go beyond two to two and a half meters.
  2. The width of the flooring for work must be at least a meter.
  3. The total height of the structure should not exceed six meters.

And now - to work! In order to proceed with the assembly, it is necessary to prepare in advance all the necessary materials. These will be:

  • Boards, the thickness of which is not less than fifty millimeters, and the width is not less than one hundred mm. You can replace them with a 10x10 beam or round timber for stops and racks.
  • Boards for fencing and struts. Their thickness should be at least thirty millimeters.
  • Boards for flooring and lintels - 50 mm thick.
  • Nails. But do not try to replace them with self-tapping screws - in this matter they are not reliable comrades.

1. Observing all the distances that were indicated a little above, fasten the four posts on all four sides using the diagonal braces provided.

When building, finishing, repairing low-rise buildings, you can confidently perform work at the top only on scaffolding, which is quite realistic to do with your own hands from wood.

It is unprofitable for the owners to buy metal structures, because they are expensive and are not used so often.

Homemade scaffolding can be made from material available in stock in personal plots. If this is not in sufficient quantity, you can buy boards and beams, and after construction is completed, use them for other needs.

Scaffolding materials

It is important that wooden blanks are dry, durable, so the presence of knots, cracks, and other defects on them is unacceptable. If possible, it is advisable to buy materials from spruce, there are usually more flaws on pine. In principle, you can use any durable wood, the reliability of which must be checked before construction.

To do this, bricks, cinder blocks, large stones of a suitable shape are placed on two low supports.

You should put a board with a thickness of 30 mm, stand on top of it and jump several times. This should be done by a person with good reaction and coordination in order to land safely on the ground in case of failure. If the board passes the test, it can be used to assemble scaffolding.

To build a building structure with your own hands, you will also need bars with a square section and a side length of 100 mm, a tape measure, a circular saw will help a lot.

Self-tapping screws and nails

Doubts about the choice of fasteners are quite understandable. Nails are easy to hammer in and provide strength to scaffolding because they have some flexibility to absorb the load. The inconvenience lies in the fact that the building structure is almost impossible to disassemble without damaging the wood.

Self-tapping screws are convenient in this regard, they can be unscrewed without damaging wooden surfaces, but they are characterized by great fragility. Black self-tapping screws made of hardened steel alloys can break when struck or simply under weight.

Note! Anodized self-tapping fasteners are somewhat stronger, they can be distinguished from ordinary ones by the greenish tint of the coating.

If the owner often works on the site with his own hands and the wood is needed in the most complete form, you can use anodized self-tapping screws, and to be sure, hammer in only two or three nails at the junctions of the scaffolding, just in case, for insurance.

Design Options

With your own hands, you can make construction wooden scaffolding of various types, the choice of a particular option depends on the specifics of the upcoming work.

Scaffold

If you plan to finish the house with light materials, then scaffolding is quite enough, the manufacture of which requires less material and time. Two types of attached structures are known, the scheme of each resembles the letter G.

The location of the construction scaffolds varies:

  • in one case, the short horizontal part of the letter G rests against the wall, and its vertical part is slightly sunk into the ground under the working load;
  • in scaffolds of the second type, the vertical part of the letter G rests against the wall. All the weight is concentrated on the thrust elements, the upper part of which is driven into a corner - the junction of the two main bars.

The construction is often called Armenian scaffolding, and the vertical part in them can be shortened, then the scaffolding takes the form of a triangle, against the base of which the board rests. All the load is concentrated on it.

Despite the fact that the scaffolds seem not very reliable, in practice their strength and ease of use have been repeatedly proven. Triangular scaffolds should be located every meter, if possible, they are nailed to the wall, if there is none, then they are fixed with stops. For safety net, the place where the stubborn bars are immersed in the ground is additionally beaten with wedges.

To ensure that the scaffolds do not move sideways along the wall, the stops are additionally sewn together with bars, which increases the rigidity of the structure. All thrust bars, boards must have a thickness of at least 50 mm; boards also with a thickness of at least 50 mm are placed on the flooring. The horizontal surface is nailed or fixed with self-tapping screws, otherwise it is dangerous to move along them.

Construction goats

Wooden scaffolding with such an interesting name is known to everyone, because they are often used both at construction sites and during the overhaul of apartments. The convenience of construction goats lies in the fact that they do not rest on the wall, they allow for sheathing with siding and many other facing materials.

Standing on top of the trestle, you can mount both the top and bottom of the panels, then move the structure and continue working on the adjacent section of the wall. Between the racks of such wooden scaffolding, crossbars are stuffed, they strengthen the structure, and at the same time perform the function of a ladder. Racks on one side can be fixed strictly vertically, which will allow you to put portable scaffolding close to the wall.

Complete scaffolding

The structure of traditional wooden scaffolding has not changed over the years. It is well known to everyone from the films of the Soviet years and posters, on which charming girls, standing on the scaffolding, smiled life-affirmingly at the enthusiastically working young men.

To make such scaffolding with your own hands, you will need a lot of lumber, the advantage of the design is that it can withstand a large load, and allows you to carry out work of any degree of complexity.

Before you start collecting scaffolding, you should stock up in advance with boards 50 mm thick, bars for crossbars up to 1 m long. At the first stage, racks are made of long bars or boards connected by crossbars. Scaffolding will be especially stable if the racks are placed at an angle, and not strictly vertical.

Depending on the future load on the flooring, the thickness of the boards on it, the racks are placed at a distance of 1.5 to 2.5 m from each other and strengthened with jibs. The number of crossbars and jibs is never superfluous, the more there are, the more stable the scaffolding will be.

Note! If the height of the structure exceeds 3 m, then the vertical beams of the racks are supported by additional braces resting on the ground.

Lastly, on the bars located along the perimeter of the racks from above, lay the flooring from the boards, which are carefully inspected the day before. The surface is laid in such a way that no cracks, gaps at the joints are formed, a canvas is obtained, similar to the floor in wooden huts. On such a floor, workers can confidently focus on their immediate duties without fear of failing. At high altitude, it is easier to work if there are railings; they must be made of durable material without cracks or other defects.

Full-fledged sawn-timber construction goats can be made with your own hands in a short time if you have work skills and a minimum set of tools, preferably with an electrical power system.

Features of metal scaffolding

If there is no great desire to make wooden scaffolding with your own hands, you can purchase a finished metal structure. The costs, of course, will be noticeable, but such scaffolding can be used for construction work of any degree of complexity with heavy loads on supports and flooring.

Metal scaffolding is convenient in that it can be disassembled with your own hands at the end of construction, folded into a utility room and then used for repairs in the future.

The industry produces metal structures of several types:

  • pin;
  • collar;
  • frame;
  • wedge.

In pin scaffolding, pin loops are welded on vertical posts, and the crossbars end with hooks designed for connection. Assembly is simple and quick, it is convenient to work on such scaffolding with buildings of standard shapes, if you have to finish ledges, curly bay windows, it is better to choose a different base.

Scaffolding with a height of not more than 40 m is made from metal pipes, which are fixed with special clamps. Assembly can be done by hand, if necessary, such scaffolding can be easily transferred to a new location. It is not recommended to work with very heavy loads on them, because clamp fasteners have load limits.

Often, metal scaffolding is produced in the form of modules from frames, which are welded from pipes and strengthened with jibs. The design can be extended and increased in height with the help of additional modules. One section usually has a height of 2 m, a length of one and a half to 3 m, the depth of the horizontal part is usually 1 m.

Metal wedge scaffolds have more complex joints, consisting of perforated discs welded to vertical posts, and pipes with special locks that resemble the jaws of predators. The lock is wound on the disk, a wedge is inserted into the through coinciding hole. Scaffolding can be easily assembled and disassembled with your own hands, moved where you need it, it is convenient to perform any work on them.

It is necessary to choose the type of scaffolding carefully, taking into account the specifics of the work to be done, the load and financial possibilities. You can purchase lumber and make the structure completely with your own hands or buy finished metal products that you only have to assemble.

During the construction of a residential building, many processes must be performed at a height, and therefore you cannot do without reliable scaffolding. The most optimal solution is to make scaffolding with your own hands, then you won’t have to pay rent and spend time transporting the structure. They are wooden and metal, and depending on the material, the assembly technology has certain differences.

Construction and types of scaffolding

Both wooden and metal scaffolding have the same elements:

  • support posts;
  • stairs;
  • decking and lintels for it;
  • enclosing railings;
  • stops;
  • horizontal and diagonal braces.

Wooden structures are easier to assemble - they are smaller in size, and all the details are knocked together with nails. At the same time, such scaffolds are not designed for heavy loads, their dismantling takes time, and reassembly will be less durable, since nail holes remain in the beams. Scaffolding made of metal pipes is much stronger, they can be easily extended if necessary, and the reliability of the connections remains high no matter how many times the structure is disassembled and reassembled.


Wedge scaffolding

Depending on the methods of fastening, there are 4 main types of scaffolding.

Table. Forest types

Forest typesDescription
framemetal structures from vertical frames fastened together by diagonal and horizontal struts. These scaffolds are lightweight and easy to install.
wedgevery reliable and durable structures, all elements of which are fixed with special holders
pinrarely used scaffolding, which is light and easy to assemble, withstands very high loads, but is too expensive and puts a lot of pressure on the ground
clampthese are universal scaffoldings, perfect for buildings with complex geometric shapes. The assembly process is quite laborious, but if necessary, the shape of the structure can be easily changed horizontally and vertically

How to assemble wooden scaffolding

To make it convenient to work on the scaffolding, there should be a distance of 2 to 2.5 meters between the racks, the width of the flooring should be at least 1 m, and the total height of the scaffolding should be a maximum of 6 m. Based on these parameters, an approximate design drawing is made.


For work you will need:

  • timber 100x100 mm;
  • boards 30 mm thick;
  • boards with a section of 100x50 mm;
  • nails;
  • a hammer;
  • level;
  • roulette;
  • Circular Saw.

The wood must be dense and dry, without cracks. Raw wood will make the structure heavier, besides, after drying it can be deformed. Since scaffolding is required only during the construction or finishing of the house, it is not necessary to treat it with antiseptic compounds and grind it.

Step 1. Making the frame


4 beams are cut to the height of the scaffolding and laid on a flat area. Now they take 2 beams of 4 m each and 2 of 3.6 m each, and nail them from the inside to the support beams: smaller ones along the upper edge, 4 meters along the lower one. You should get two identical trapezoids, which should be additionally reinforced with diagonal braces.

Step 2. Frame assembly

The frames are lifted, set vertically one opposite the other and temporarily fastened with sidewalls: the distance between the lower edges of the racks should be 1.15 m, between the upper ones about 1 m. The finished structure should have a pyramidal shape and strictly horizontal sidewalls made of timber.

Step 3. Installing the flooring

Floor boards must be nailed to the upper transverse bars. It is best to stuff them along the width of the frame; boards are laid close, without gaps at the joints. Additional crossbars are attached to the sides of the frame, which can be used as stairs.



Prices for different types of building boards

Building boards

Assembly of metal scaffolding

In private construction, it is most convenient to use frame metal scaffolding with wooden decking. They consist of several sections, the number of which depends on the length of the building and its height. For the manufacture of sections, steel and aluminum racks are suitable; if heavy loads are expected, it is better to choose steel elements. The standard section is 1.5 m high, 1 m wide and 1.65 to 2 m long.

For work you will need:


Step 1. Prepare the spacers

Blanks for spacers are cut from pipes with a diameter of 15 mm: the length of the horizontal is 96 cm, the diagonal is 2 m. After that, cuts 6 cm long are made at the ends of the two-meter tubes and flattened. This will make it easier to attach the struts to the supporting posts.


Step 2. Making adapters

To build scaffolding, you will need connecting elements - adapters. They are made from shaped pipes: 25x25 mm pipes are cut into pieces 30 cm long, and blanks 8 cm long are cut from 30x30 mm pipes. Short blanks are put on long ones and welded in the middle to prevent shifts.

Step 3 Assembling the Frame


Two vertical racks are interconnected by horizontal struts, welding them every 30 cm. It turns out a frame in the form. The second frame is assembled in the same way. Square plates 70x70 mm are cut out of sheet metal and welded flat to the lower ends of the support posts. Thanks to this, the racks of the section will not fall into the ground, although on soft soils, dense wooden planks are additionally laid under the metal plates.

Step 4 Mounting the section


Two frames are installed vertically one opposite the other and try on diagonal braces. The attachment points are marked with a marker, then holes for the bolts are drilled in the racks and spacers. Connect all the parts together and check the horizontal level of the upper crossbars with a level. If the design is skewed, you will have to additionally adjust all the elements, otherwise it will be difficult to stand on the scaffolding.

Step 5. Making the deck

Boards for flooring can be laid in two ways - along the length of the section and across. For transverse decking, horizontal pipes are bolted to the sides of the structure at the level of the upper struts. For longitudinal flooring, boards are taken at least 2 m long, knocked down along the width of the section, strengthened from below with transverse bars from deflection.

So that the flooring does not move during operation, a metal U-shaped profile should be fixed at its ends along the thickness of the spacer. To do this, lay the finished shield on the scaffolding and mark the line below with a marker where the horizontal spacer touches the boards. In the same way, markup is made from the other end of the shield. Next, they take a profile with a width of 17-20 mm, cut it to the width of the flooring and screw it with screws to the boards on the marked lines. Now that the decking is laid on the scaffolding, the spacers will be inside the profile, which will not allow the boards to move.

Step 5: Painting the Scaffolding

Metal scaffolding is designed for reusable use, which means that it needs protective treatment. Since scaffolding is more often used for outdoor work, the frame becomes corroded from dampness, especially at the attachment points. Therefore, after manufacturing and checking the scaffolding, each element should be sanded, wiped from dust, primed and painted. Wood flooring is also treated and painted to resist moisture and rot.

Prices for poles, profile pipes

Poles, profile pipes

Video - Do-it-yourself scaffolding

How to make scaffolding with your own hands - photo, video. At the stage of construction, repair work and maintenance of a private house, sometimes you have to work at height. With the help of a conventional ladder, it is not always convenient to carry out work, and sometimes it is completely impossible.

The way out of this situation will be scaffolding with your own hands.

General information

Scaffolding made of metal will be many times more reliable and durable, but often such structures are made of wood, as it is cheaper. Everyone can work with wood, and all you need is nails or screws, a saw, a screwdriver, or a hammer. As you can see, the set of tools is small and can be found in everyone's house, and if something is not there, it will not take a lot of money to buy the right tool.

Metal is more difficult in this regard. To make metal scaffolding with your own hands, you will need a certain skill, as well as a welding machine and at least a basic understanding of how to properly weld seams. It is for this reason that in 85% of cases forests are made of wood.

materials

It is clear that scaffolding (scaffolding) is needed for a short time, but the manufacture requires the use of high quality wood and with a minimum number of knots. Some builders recommend making scaffolding from spruce wood, since, unlike pine, its knots are located singly and have almost no effect on the final strength of the board. But almost no one has spruce boards, but there are more than enough pine boards.


Scaffolding can also be made from them, but before that you will need to check the material very carefully (at least those boards that go to the flooring and racks). To do this, you need to add two columns (3-4 bricks on top of each other, 2 building blocks, 2 boulders and more).

When checking boards that are 3 meters long, there should be a distance of 2.5 meters between them. A board is laid on the posts, and then they stand in the middle and jump on it. If the board has weak points, it will crack or even break. If it lasts, you can use it.

Now about the thickness. The thickness of the boards for scaffolding should be chosen according to what the structure will be, the distance between the racks and the expected load. The only thing to note is that boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm are most often used for flooring and racks, and boards with a thickness of 2.5-3 cm are most often used for jibs. Such boards can also be used after dismantling scaffolding in construction works, if you can not damage it during disassembly.

Self-tapping screws or nails

Probably, in 100 years there will be disputes about what is better - nails or self-tapping screws, but in this particular case, everything is aggravated by the fact that the work will be carried out at a height and therefore the design must be reliable. In this case, nails would be the best option. The fact is that they are made of soft metal and under load they can bend, but not break.

Unlike them, self-tapping screws are made of hardened steel, which is brittle and will simply break under shock or variable loads. This is critical for scaffolding, because there are cases when they break. But it was about the "black" screws. There are also yellow-green anodized ones, which are not so fragile and can withstand loads.

If you are seriously concerned about reliability, it is better to use nails for making scaffolding with your own hands. But they are not loved because at the end of the work it is impossible to disassemble the connection without loss and quickly, as the wood will be damaged.

When working independently, do this - assemble everything on anodized screws. If the design turns out to be correct and convenient, play it safe by driving a couple of nails into each joint. In order to prevent damage to the wood in the future, trimmings of thin boards can be placed under the nails, and whole boards can be used over a long span, but with a small thickness. When disassembling, you will be able to split them and easily remove the nails.

Design features

For different types of work, scaffolds and scaffolding of different types will be required. For work with light weight materials, high load-bearing capacity is not required. In this case, you can make side scaffolds or a structure in the form of an envelope. For finishing the gables or just the exterior of a one-story low house, it is permissible to use construction goats, and flooring is laid on their crossbars. If nothing can be supported on the walls, goats with floorboards laid on the crossbars can be used.


For laying brick walls or building blocks, finishing the facade with stone or brick, full-fledged scaffolding will be required. Wood scaffolding can be made more rigid by using braces and stops.

As a rule, such structures are not attached to the walls, but are fixed on stops that will support the racks. Let's talk about each type separately.

Attached scaffolds

The design got its name due to the fact that they are simply leaned against, and not attached. They are held in place by an emphasis. The more you load this scaffolding, the stronger it will stand. There are two types of construction, which are made in the shape of the letter "G", but they are deployed in different directions.

The first figure shows a reliable and simple scaffold design. Their only drawback is that they cannot be adjusted in height. It will be convenient to hem the roof overhang, clean or install a drain, in general, all work that does not have a large variation in height. Some were even able to adapt such scaffolding for building a house from a bar. It will be convenient to lift or roll logs along the edges of the stops. They are quite reliable, as they can withstand a log of 11 meters and three people in addition.

The second drawing shows Armenian scaffolding or envelope scaffolding. This design is also reliable and simple, although at first glance you can’t tell. But still it is verified by thousands of people who used them in construction. It is attractive that a minimum amount of building materials is required, and assembly / disassembly / transportation can be done in a few minutes. The main thing is the manufacture of triangles, and installation at the right height will not take much time - raise the triangles, support them with a beam, which then needs to be fixed in the ground.

In order to make triangles, a board with a thickness of 4-5 cm and a width of 10-15 cm is used. The vertical part can be long so that it is convenient to lift the scaffold to the required height for it. The crossbeam on top should be between 0.8 and 1 meter long, and the floorboards will be laid on it. They will also be 5 cm thick, and wide - the more the better, preferably 15 cm.

When making corners, position the joint so that the horizontal board is on top. To increase reliability, use metal pads in the form of a corner. But if you install the corner with three nailed on both sides, this is not necessary. Installation of triangles is made for each meter. If it works out, they are nailed to, and if not, all hope is for gravity. The main load in this design goes to the thrust board, which is placed at an angle and it rests with one end on the ground and the other on the upper part of the triangle.

The stops must be made of timber or boards with a thickness of at least 5 cm, pipes of at least 7.6 cm in diameter or section (for profiled pipes at least 5 * 4 cm). During the installation of the stop, it should be placed exactly in a corner, hammered into the ground, additionally fixed and driven in wedges. To eliminate the risk of lateral shift, the installed stops should be fixed with several jibs that will connect everything into a rigid and strong structure. For jibs, you can use an unedged board, if any, the main thing is that the width and thickness parameters are not less than the minimum limit.

If you want to grow the thrust boards (to be more than 6 meters in length), you should make an additional emphasis. It will rest against the middle of the base and thereby remove part of the load. Now about do-it-yourself scaffolding flooring. It must be made from a wide board with a thickness of 4-5 cm. In this case, it is required to fix them to the triangles at least with self-tapping screws. This design does not provide for the installation of railings, and the slightest fluctuations underfoot will cause discomfort, so it is highly desirable to take care of fixation.

Drawings and photos

The described options are good if the use of heavy materials is not expected. It is not always possible to lean the structure on the wall, and then full-fledged scaffolding will be needed. In general, the design is not complicated, but it also requires a sufficient amount of wood.

For the arrangement, you will need boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm, and first we begin to assemble the racks. These will be two thick boards or vertical beams that are fastened with crossbars. The size of the crossbars should be from 0.8 to 1 meter. Make them proceed from the fact that a more or less convenient flooring width starts from 0.65 meters. But still, you will feel more confident on the flooring 0.8 meters wide. In order to give the structure stability on the sides, you can make racks that will taper upward.

To prevent the scaffolding from falling onto the wall, the crossbars should be made with a release of 25 cm. They will not allow the structure to collapse. Racks are placed at a distance of 150-250 cm from each other. The span depends on the thickness of the boards that you will use to make the flooring so that they do not sag. Installed racks at the right distance should be fastened with slopes between themselves. So they will not allow the structure to fold to the side. The more you make jibs and crossbars, the more reliable the design will be.

Also, so that self-made scaffolding does not fall, they should be supported with timber or boards, and one end should be nailed to the racks with nails, and the other should be buried in the ground. The cross beams will not allow the structure to fold to the side, but it is likely that without securing the scaffolding will fall forward. To avoid this, the beams should be supported with jibs.

If the height of the scaffolding is 3 meters, you can not support it, but if the work will be carried out at the level of the second or even third floor, such fixation is necessary. You should also make a railing if the work will be carried out at high altitude. For this, it is permissible to use not very thick boards, but the main condition is that they should not have cracks and knots. Handrails will give confidence during construction.

Standard 6 meters are enough to the floor level of the second floor. But such forests are inconvenient in that they have to be completely disassembled if there is a need to move the structure to another. You can build scaffolding from sturdy old boards. Sometimes pipes or poles are used to make stops and braces - everything that can be found on the farm.

Construction goats

There is another simple way to make mobile light scaffolding with your own hands - to make the same goats, on which the crossbars are stuffed with a certain step, which will be both a ladder and a support for the flooring. Floor boards should be laid on the cross members. This option is good because it is ideal for sheathing a house. The sheathing will take place from the bottom up and it is necessary to change the height all the time, and there is no way to lean or attach the structure to the wall. For this reason, construction goats would be the best option.

Sometimes they make one rack on one side vertical and without tilt. This will make it possible to install them closer to the wall, and then the flooring will be located conveniently for work. This is an excellent option for painting, caulking and preventive treatment.

Varieties and knots of metal scaffolding

When building a stone house, or a building made of building blocks, do-it-yourself metal scaffolding is more suitable. They can withstand any load. Their popularity is less than that of wooden structures, as they are more expensive. The second decisive moment is the analysis of the construction wooden scaffolding, since the boards can then be put into action, and the metal parts will gather dust in the shed.

But metal scaffolding also has a lot of advantages. When disassembled, they will not take up much space. From time to time, owners of private houses still need them - to take care of a log house, for example, which means that once every 2-3 years they will definitely be needed. In this regard, a metal structure will be more practical than a wooden one, as it is easier to assemble and stronger.

All scaffolding made of metal have the same shape of vertical layers, which are connected by slopes and crossbars.

Only the method of fastening between them will differ:


All you have to do is choose one of the types, and the type of work that you are going to carry out will help you decide. When making metal scaffolding with your own hands, pin ones are most often used. They are the easiest to implement, but not good only for

Building a house is a responsible undertaking that requires a deliberate approach, materials, tools and fixtures. It is to the latter that scaffolding can be considered. These structures serve to make it possible to do finishing work at high altitude.

Scaffolding allows at a height of 4 to 10 meters to carry out the following work:

  • sew gables,
  • make siding,
  • install a drain and so on.

In fact, finishing work is more than enough. Moreover, scaffolding can be made above 10 meters, but there is one thing, such a design requires industrial capacity and appropriate engineering knowledge. It is unlikely that you will be able to make it with your own hands in accordance with all standards.

Attention ! You must be aware that working on scaffolding involves risks. Therefore, their strength should not be in doubt.

Many people decide to make scaffolding with their own hands because renting them is still a very expensive pleasure. Not only that, you have to pay a lot for shipping. Taking into account the fact that finishing work can last about several months, it is more profitable to build the structure yourself.

Choosing a material

Basically, there are only two alternatives. You can make scaffolding with your own hands from metal or wood. And each option has both its pros and cons.

Let's take metal scaffolding as an example. Making them by hand is not so easy. Moreover, it requires special equipment and materials, which most likely will have to be bought. But at the same time, this type of construction has simply incredible stability and service life. It allows you to do the most complex work at a considerable height.

Advice ! After you finish the work, metal scaffolding can be rented out. In extreme cases, they can be untwisted and put in the garage.

Based on the experience of people who have encountered this issue, the majority is inclined to believe that metal scaffolding can only be made if you have the necessary metal. The purchase is quite costly. But if you want to make a business out of it, the costs have to pay off.

Do-it-yourself scaffolding made of wood is quite simple. In addition, after use, they can be easily disassembled, and the boards, for example, can be burned in a fireplace or stove. In fact, this is a one-time building that is destroyed after one cycle of operation or given to a neighbor.

Of course, in terms of reliability, wooden scaffolding, which you can make with your own hands, is several times inferior to the metal counterpart. But they cost practically nothing. In addition, in each suburban area you can find suitable materials. Your main tools in this context will be a hammer and nails.

The main disadvantage of wooden scaffolding is their low strength and low stability. Of course, if everything is done soundly, then this design can be used. That is why it is so important to follow the instructions exactly.

Attention ! Do-it-yourself wooden scaffolding is quite difficult to maintain, since untreated wood easily rots.

Plastic - reality or fiction

Now, more and more often in non-building forums, you can see entire topics dedicated to plastic scaffolding. Of course, they exist and have a lot of important advantages over wooden and metal products. But to make them not in industrial conditions is not yet possible.

Attention ! Of course, if you have a 3-D printer, then you can make your own plastic scaffolding.

Construction of different types of structures

Making wooden scaffolding

This is the simplest design that you can do with your own hands in just a day. To end up with a solid and reliable structure, just follow these instructions:

  1. Take a board six meters long and place it against the wall.
  2. Place a second plank in parallel.
  3. Fasten them together with crossbars. Make the second support in the same way.
  4. Lay the flooring.
  5. To provide increased rigidity, take bracing boards. Use the ground as a stop.
  6. Build up level after level until you reach a sufficient height.

As you can see, making wooden scaffolding with your own hands is not so difficult, but there are many nuances that need to be taken care of. Otherwise, the design may not stand for several days.

It is very important to make spans of optimal dimensions for the design. The canon is considered to be a distance of two meters between the risers. If necessary, it can be increased to two and a half. The width of the deck is exactly one meter.

Another important nuance in the construction of scaffolding is which fasteners to use. Usually there are only two options: nails and screws. It is worth recognizing that both have their pros and cons.

Take, for example, self-tapping screws. At first glance, these are ideal fasteners for making scaffolding with your own hands. But not everything is so clear. Their main disadvantage is excessive fragility.

Also, self-tapping screws, with which you can make scaffolding with your own hands, are quite susceptible to shock loads. Their hat just pops off. Naturally, this can lead to the complete destruction of the structure.

Therefore, nails are the best option for making scaffolding with your own hands. And it is best to use 120 mm products. For better fixation, their tips are bent.

The main reason for the brittleness of self-tapping screws is that they are made of hardened metal. That is why under heavy loads they often break. Nails are a completely different matter. They are based on soft metal. It can bend but not break. That is why, if you want to make scaffolding with your own hands, it is best to use them.

Unfortunately, despite their undeniable merits, nails are not perfect. The main disadvantage of these fasteners is that it will not be possible to carefully disassemble the structure. You'll have to break it. Naturally, the product cannot be used a second time.

Therefore, experienced builders recommend to all those who decide to make scaffolding with their own hands to fasten the basic version with self-tapping screws, and fix the final one with nails.

We make scaffolding from metal with our own hands

First, one important clarification needs to be made. In this option, the main structure is made of metal, and the flooring is made of wood. This is the best combination to achieve high performance.

Attention ! Do-it-yourself scaffolding is not made exclusively with metal scaffolding.

Aluminum can be used as the metal for the frame. It is light in weight, so installation should not be difficult. However, it is not able to withstand too large loads and this must be taken into account. It is best that each span has the following parameters:

  • width - 100 cm;
  • height - 150 cm;
  • length from 165 to 200 cm.

This is the canon that will provide the necessary stability to the building created by one's own hands.

When creating a metal structure, you need to properly prepare, since the quality of materials is of particular importance here, you will need:

  • square profile,
  • pipes for spacers,
  • profile for connecting inserts,
  • floor boards,
  • stairs,
  • connecting elements.

Naturally, you won’t be able to limit yourself to materials alone; in order to create the intended project with your own hands, you will also need a number of tools, including:

  • hacksaw for metal,
  • drill,
  • Bulgarian,
  • welding machine.

With the help of this toolkit, you can build a metal auxiliary device with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself construction of scaffolding begins with tamping the ground where the product will stand. This will ensure increased reliability of the entire structure. Moreover, it does not hurt to make a drainage system.

Attention ! Drainage is a necessary element if the facade decoration will last for a long period of time.

Where the supports will stand, you must place the boards with your own hands. This will provide more stability. In this case, no precaution will be superfluous, since the slightest play can lead to the fact that the scaffolding will collapse, and you will not be able to do anything.

To make scaffolding from a profile pipe with your own hands, follow this algorithm:


To protect scaffolding from corrosion, you need to make a protective coating. Enough anti-corrosion fluid and special paint.

Results

You can make scaffolding with your own hands. The complexity of the design directly depends on the material you choose, for example, plastic structures can only be made in industrial production. The simplest option is a wooden structure.

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