The technology of laying soft tiles is quite simple and does not cause any particular difficulties, and if you follow the instructions and also have some skills in construction, it is quite possible to install bituminous tiles with your own hands. Properly made laying of such a coating is not only an excellent protection of the home from adverse weather conditions, but also an excellent appearance of the roof itself.
Weather
According to the instructions, flexible tiles are recommended to be laid in the warm, dry season, at a temperature of at least +5ºС, but +10ºС is better. This is necessary so that, under the action of heat, the sheets of bituminous shingle better stick together with each other and with the base, forming an almost monolithic coating layer. At low temperatures, the sheets become brittle, do not bend well, so winter is not the best time to work with this type of coating, but if it is planned to lay bituminous tiles in winter and the air temperature is less than + 5ºС, then it is necessary to keep the material at room temperature for a day and use a building hair dryer to heat the tiles and bituminous mastic for better sealing of the layers. In winter, it is better to make a partial repair of the roof, rather than a full-fledged installation on the entire surface of the roof, especially if the laying of flexible tiles with your own hands is done for the first time.Roof slope
Installation of flexible tiles is advisable to carry out on roofs with a minimum slope of 12º-18º. If the slope is less or the roof is flat, then it is better to choose a different type of coating, since the inevitable stagnation of water will lead to rapid damage to the roof.The main stages of laying soft tiles
Base, ventilation
Any type of roof installation begins with the preparation of the base. A solid solid base is used as the basis for laying bitumen. It must be even and firm, since the slightest irregularities will inevitably affect the appearance of the roof. The OSB-3 plate is considered the ideal coating option.
A prerequisite for the long service life of a soft roof is proper ventilation according to the “bottom-up” principle. At the bottom of the slope, ventilation holes are made through which air enters, and it is drawn out through the so-called ridge vents or aerators. Features of laying the lining layer
Installation of soft tiles is carried out on a special lining carpet, preferably from the same manufacturer as the tiles. If the slope of the roof is minimal, i.e. 12º-18º, then the lining carpet must be laid on the entire surface of the roof. To fix the lining layer, start from the lowest point of the roof, parallel to the cornice line. The layers are superimposed on each other: the top layer should be 20 cm on the bottom, the edges are smeared with glue and nailed with wide hats. Pay attention to the good tension of the carpet! In the case of a roof slope of more than 20º, it is possible to lay a lining only on cornice overhangs, ridges, at the junctions of slopes (valleys), around pipes, i.e., on “problem areas” where there is a high probability of leakage. In this case, the carpet can also be mounted vertically. Also, the vertical fastening of the carpet can be used for roofs with steep slopes. In any case, before installing the lining layer, it is better to coat the base with bituminous mastic. Then, when the carpet is heated with a hair dryer, the lining perfectly adheres to the base and a continuous coating is obtained. The correct base and a well-laid underlayment affect both the appearance of the roof and its protective functions. It is not recommended to use a hydrobarrier as a lining material, roofing material is not recommended.
Protection of the "edges" of the roof
To drain water and protect the wooden elements of the roof along the roof overhang, metal cornice strips are installed over the lining. They should be fastened with nails in a checkerboard pattern and overlapped by 5 cm. End strips are attached in the same way. These elements reinforce the overhangs, protect the wood flooring from precipitation, increase wind resistance and give a finished look.
Marking for flexible tiles
If the laying of soft tiles is done for the first time, then it is better to make preliminary markings in order to avoid row distortion. A beating is done with a cord on horizontal and vertical lines with a step of 0.8 and 1 m, respectively. This markup will help align the rows horizontally and vertically, as well as correct distortions if some object is mounted in the roof: a pipe, a window. It is impossible to fasten the tiles strictly along these lines! Just follow the direction! It is necessary to mix several packs of shingles in order to make the roof covering look uniform, as there may be different shades in different batches that cannot be immediately noticed. First, 1.5-2 cm from the edge of the cornice plank, a self-adhesive cornice tile is fastened joint-to-joint, additionally it is nailed with wide-head nails. You can take an ordinary ordinary tile, and cut off the protruding parts, the so-called petals. The first row begins to be fixed from the center of the slope towards the ends of the roof in both directions. If the installation of flexible tiles is done by hand for the first time, then the sequence of actions should be followed:- Remove the film from the bottom of the sheet (after that, you can not stack the tiles on top of each other).
- Lay the shingle on the surface and secure with four nails along the “notches” at least 2 cm from the edge. If the slope of the roof is large, then you need to fix it with six nails - drive two along the edges of the sheet for additional fixation.
- The next row is superimposed on the previous one so that the “petals” of the top sheet are found on the recesses of the previous row and form a continuous straight line with them.
Making "problem" places
- Having reached the end plank, the soft tiles must be cut flush with the plank and glued with bituminous sealant or glue to a width of about 10 cm.
- When laying in valleys, the tile is overlapped on the adjacent slope and cut to fit one line, heated additionally with a hairdryer and glued with bituminous glue.
- A metal apron should be used around pipes, antenna outlets and in places where soft tiles adhere to vertical surfaces and be sure to additionally coat the seams with bituminous sealant.
Skate
A cornice tile, divided into three parts, is attached to the ridge of the roof. Each part is bent at the desired angle. You can start laying from any side of the ridge. The sheet is glued to the ridge with a self-adhesive side and nailed with four nails. The next (upper) tile should be overlapped by 5 cm on the lower one to cover the nails. The end sheets are glued.
Everything, the roof is ready! 
But most of the questions arise precisely in the process of work, so you should familiarize yourself with the video materials on the installation of shingles.
One of the significant advantages of a flexible roof is the relative ease of its installation. Nevertheless, there are still some features of working with this roofing, and we will talk about them in this article. Having mastered the simple technology of work, you can easily prepare the base and lay the tiles with high quality.
In general, the installation of flexible shingles is quite simple, from the tools you will need a hammer, a sectional knife, a spatula and a glue gun.
Foundation preparation
The base for a flexible roof must be solid and have a high modulus of elasticity. To do this, OSB or moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of at least 9 mm is laid on the rafters. The step of the lathing under the coating should not exceed 90-120 cm, in other cases it is necessary to increase the thickness of the slabs or plywood to 20 mm, or use a counter-lattice. It has the added benefit of optimizing the ventilation of the under-roof space and preventing the formation of condensation in the roof pie.
At the joints, a height difference of more than 2 mm is not allowed; it is also important that there is a 3-4 mm thermal gap between the plates. Any violations of the correct geometry: deviation from flatness, non-parallelism of the cornices with the skates, curvature of the valleys do not interfere with laying, but in one way or another they affect the appearance of the coating.
Underlayment carpet flooring
A solid crate must be cleaned of dirt and covered with a lining carpet, which serves as an additional layer of waterproofing and a buffer layer that prevents the accumulation of migrating moisture.
Lining carpet - a rolled material that is rolled out over the entire surface of the roof with a slope of up to 30 °. On steeper slopes, it is allowed to protect only the most vulnerable places: cornices, ridges, gable overhangs and junctions.
With continuous laying on slopes with a slight slope, the roll is rolled out horizontally, starting from the cornices. Each layer is stretched and nailed over the upper edge with roofing nails in 15-20 cm increments, releasing the carpet from the eaves and gable overhangs by 2-3 cm. The nails should have a length of 1-1.5 cm more than the thickness of the solid crate and flash it through.
After laying the carpet, remove the protective films from the edges of the overlap and lightly press the edges with an adhesive backing. On steep slopes, for convenience, you can roll the carpet vertically, nailing it at the top. If the length of the carpet is not enough, it can be extended by connecting the lining with an overlap of 15 cm and gluing the joint with bituminous glue.
Valley processing
If there are valleys on the roof, laying the carpet should begin with them. The roll is rolled out in the direction of the valley and the edges are fixed with nails in increments of 20-30 cm. The carpet strips on the slopes are laid over the lining of the valley by 15 cm and cut obliquely parallel to the line of its center. Places of overlap must be treated with bituminous glue and pressed well against each other.
Tiling also starts from the valleys. After mounting the planks on the cornices, a special valley carpet is rolled out along the inner surface of the valley, which has the color and texture of the tile. It is carefully leveled and the side edges are fastened with nails every 10-15 cm. The lower part is cut with a knife along the line of the cornice tiles and glued to the metal bar.
Laying the starting row
Tiling starts from the eaves. First, a cornice L-shaped bar is stuffed along the entire lower perimeter, which closes the junction of the cornice overhang and the edge of the lining carpet bent down. The planks are laid with an overlap of 5-7 cm and nailed with roofing nails in two rows with a step of 8-12 cm. 3 nails.
This is followed by laying the starting row of tiles with cornice shingles or tape. They have a smooth edge, which is placed with an indent of 1-2 cm from the edge of the overhang. The lower surface of the cornice tiles is adhesive: it is simply pressed against the cleaned and degreased metal strips, it is not necessary to fasten it with nails.
Ordinary tile
Shingles of ordinary tiles are laid, starting from the outer edge of the eaves. It is necessary to mix tiles from 4-5 packs to avoid possible deviations in color. Before laying, the protective film is removed from the teeth of the shingle, exposing the adhesive backing.
The first row of shingles is laid on top of the eaves row so that the edges of the teeth are 1-2 cm higher than the edge. Each shingle of an ordinary shingle is nailed 3-4 cm above the protrusion of the teeth so that the nail also presses the previous row. Each subsequent row of tiles is laid with teeth flush with the upper edge of the cutouts of the previous row. The side edges of the shingles are joined without overlap, some manufacturers even have lock cutouts on the edges.
The ends of ordinary tiles on the gable overhangs are cut flush with the edge and fixed with bituminous glue. In the valleys, the edges of ordinary tiles are cut obliquely so that the edge is 12 cm from the center and the overlap is also glued to the full width.
Mounting and sealing of terminals, connections
The best option to join the chimney well is to knock down a 15-20 cm high plywood neck around it. A gap of several millimeters is needed between the wall and the masonry so that the roof with the neck can move relative to the well. The upper edge of the neck is nailed to the masonry with quick installation.
The surface of the neck is covered with bituminous glue and lined with sections of the valley carpet, letting it over ordinary tiles and wrapping corners of 15 cm. The metal lining of the well is lowered to a level of 2-3 cm from the roof surface, thus blocking the neck gap. Similarly, multi-tiered roofs adjoin to the gables.
For the installation of ventilation outlets from the attic and the layer of the roofing cake, special rubber cuffs are used. They are planted on bituminous glue on top of the carpet, then again coated with glue and covered with ordinary tiles, making cutouts in it as accurately as possible. The ends at the junction are thoroughly sealed with bituminous glue.
Wind bars and skates
Cornices or wind slats can be used as a frame for gable overhangs. The first ones are mounted on top of the lining carpet along with the trim of the cornice overhangs. There is no need to trim the planks at the corners: they are overlapped and the corner is fixed with five nails. Thus, the framing of the cornices and wind overhangs is the same.
This is not very convenient when there is a thick end of the roof sheathing that needs to be closed. In this case, special wind bars are used. They have a U-shaped or L-shaped shape, the height of the bar is selected according to the thickness of the end. On the upper corner, there may be a side for framing overhangs with a triangular glazing bead at the end.
Such planks are fixed over ordinary tiles, smearing with glue 2/3 of the distance from the edge, which will be covered with metal. Wind strips are attached to the end with self-tapping screws for corrugated board.
After laying ordinary tiles, they are cut on skates end-to-end without overlap, and then the connection is closed with ridge tiles. In the presence of hip skates, they start with them, laying the petals from the bottom up. For most manufacturers, ridge shingles are pieces of cornice shingles or tape. They are laid with an overlap of 5-7 cm, nailing one edge, which will be closed by the petal of the next row.
Features of winter installation
Tiles may only be laid in dry weather at an air temperature of +5...12 °C, depending on the manufacturer's requirements. It is allowed to lay tiles at a lower temperature, but for this it is necessary to withstand the roofing elements at a temperature of +20 ° C for a day before laying. When installing tiles, it is necessary to warm up with a building hair dryer each new shingle and the surface of the previous row in the place where the adhesive base adheres.
In most cases, it makes sense to use the so-called "greenhouse" in winter. This is a galvanized profile frame built around a building or a specific section of the roof. The frame is covered with a sealed dome made of polyethylene film. To maintain the desired temperature, an electric or gas heat gun is used.
The article was written with the participation of TECHNONICOL
The roof of a country house is often called its "fifth facade" - the whole appearance of the house depends on it. It is not surprising that among many developers every year there is a growing interest in an attractive material both in appearance and in terms of characteristics -. But in order for such a roof to look beautiful and last for a long time, it must be properly mounted. A specialist of the manufacturing company tells about all the nuances of the installation technology of flexible tiles.
Features of installation of flexible tiles
Step 1. The device of a solid base. Although the installation technology of flexible tiles has been worked out to the smallest detail, there are a number of key points that you should pay attention to even before laying a soft roof.
Gekz FORUMHOUSE user
At first I wanted to cover the roof with metal tiles, but after thinking it over, I decided that a soft roof looks much more beautiful. Installation of flexible tiles will be done by myself. The roof is hipped. The attic is cold. The angle of inclination of the slopes - 25 °. The rafters are installed in increments of 500-600 mm. There were questions about the arrangement of the base for a soft roof and the layers of the roofing "pie".
User questions:
- What to withstand the crate step?
- What to use as a solid base, OSB?
- Do I need to use special membranes under the crate?
- Do I need to lay something on top of the solid base to protect it from moisture before mounting the roofing?
These questions are relevant for any developer who decides to use flexible shingles.
The device of a soft roof begins with the preparation of the base. The technology of its installation requires that flexible tiles should be laid on a solid, even, rigid base, to which the shingles can be fixed with nails.
As such flooring can be used:
- OSP-3 boards (moisture resistant oriented strand board).
- Waterproof plywood.
- Tongue-and-groove or edged boards sorted by thickness with a relative humidity of not more than 20%.
Practice shows that the best option for solid flooring, both in terms of price-quality and ease of installation, are OSB-3 boards. Moreover, the height difference between the sheets should not exceed 1-2 mm. The use of boards as flooring can lead to the fact that over time, in the process of drying the wood, the base may warp. This will cause a change in its geometry and, accordingly, the formation of waves on the already laid topcoat.
Installation of OSB-3 or plywood sheets is recommended to be carried out separately. Sheets can be fastened with ruffed nails or self-tapping screws. The step of the crate is calculated in such a way that the horizontal joints of the plates fall on the boards of the crate, and the ends of the sheets do not hang in the air!
Artem Azarov
When installing a solid base, a distance (gap) of 3-5 mm wide is maintained between the seams of the plates. This must be done to compensate for linear thermal expansion as the seasons change.
Depending on the step of the additional lathing, different thicknesses of OSB-3, plywood or wooden decking are used. For clarity, the recommended values are summarized in the following table:
If the side of the passage element installed across the roof slope (for example, a chimney) is more than 50 cm, then, in order to facilitate the flow of water and prevent the accumulation of snow, a so-called. groove.
Important: to ensure the optimal temperature and humidity conditions of the roof and the timely removal of excess moisture from the under-roof space, do ventilated roof space.
If the roof is insulated, or a residential attic floor is being equipped, then from the inside (up to the insulation layer) solid vapor barrier, and a superdiffusion membrane is mounted on top of the insulation layer.
Then a counter-bar is stuffed along the rafter leg, due to which a ventilation under-roofing channel is formed. A crate is stuffed across the counter beam, on which a solid base is then mounted.
The superdiffusion membrane ensures the diffusion of water vapor (releases it to the outside), but prevents the passage of water that has got inside the insulation from the outside.
Step 2. Strengthening the cornice overhang. After installing a solid base, the cornice overhangs must be reinforced with metal strips - the so-called. droppers. Despite the apparent ease of installation of these elements, users of our portal often ask what mistakes can be made in this case.
AlexHomutov FORUMHOUSE user
I made a solid base for OSB flexible tiles and now I was puzzled by the question: how to properly mount and connect eaves and pediment planks.
Cornice strips are laid edgewise on the edge of a solid base. The planks are nailed to the solid flooring with special roofing nails with a wide head, in a checkerboard pattern, maintaining a step of 12-15 cm. cm). Otherwise, it will be difficult to close the nails with the underlayment.
At the intersections, the planks are fastened with an overlap of at least 3-5 cm. Moreover, when constructing a valley, the planks are cut in a special way, and a special tongue is left on one of the planks, into which the second plank then enters. In this case, the connection is neat and tight.
Artem Azarov
When installing cornice strips, inexperienced developers make such a mistake - they immediately hammer two nails on two opposite edges of the drip. Then the rest of the nails are hammered in. As a result, waves may appear on the surface of the plank.
To avoid this, the nails driven in along the edges are hammered in so that they can be easily pulled out (for example, hammer the nail only halfway). Thus, we fix the bar. Then we hammer in the rest of the nails to the end, moving along one side of the drip (left to right or right to left, as it is more convenient). Having hammered in a few nails, we pull out the last fixing nail and hammer in the rest. Thanks to this method, waves will not appear on the bar.
Step 3. Installation of the lining carpet. One of the key points in the installation of flexible tiles is the installation of a lining carpet over the entire roof area. Particular attention should be paid to the places of possible leaks - valleys and cornice overhangs. As a rule, the nuances of laying the lining carpet cause the most questions from developers.
Bege74 FORUMHOUSE user
I thought, is there such an angle of inclination of the roof slope, at which it will be possible to get by with only an ordinary lining carpet, and is this correct?
Kostya FORUMHOUSE user
Often, when installing flexible tiles, builders roll out only one - a simple lining carpet, which is fixed with nails. Is it possible to do so? And is it necessary to use (as the methodology prescribes) both a simple and a self-adhesive lining carpet?
Artem Azarov
When installing a roof made of flexible tiles, a combination of two types of lining carpets is a prerequisite. Self-adhesive waterproofing carpet will be used in especially critical places - cornice overhangs and valleys. Lining carpets with mechanical fixation are rolled out over the rest of the roof surface.
Compliance with this principle is a guarantee of trouble-free operation of the roof, which is stipulated in the installation instructions for bituminous tiles.
Because lining carpets are produced in rolls, then they are rolled out parallel to the cornice overhang. Horizontal overlaps - 100 mm. Vertical overlaps - 150 mm. The underlayment is fixed with roofing nails with a wide head. Fixation step - every 200-250 mm. Places of overlap of lining carpets (8-10 cm wide) are smeared with bituminous mastic.
After laying the lining carpet, the pediment overhang of the roof is reinforced with metal end strips. The planks are nailed with roofing nails in a checkerboard pattern, with a step of 12-15 cm. At the joints, the planks are laid with an overlap of 15 cm and fixed with 2 nails.
Step 4. Device of the valley. Laying shingles in the valley can be done in several ways:
- open method.
- The "cut" method.
The preparation of the valley depends on the chosen method of its construction. Let's consider the first way. Work begins with the layout of a pre-cut self-adhesive lining carpet. In the valley, a strip 1 meter wide is laid out, with an overlap of 50 cm on each side. When laying out the carpet, make sure that the carpet lays flat on the base, without folds and bubbles.
Important: the carpet is laid out on the eaves with an indent from the edge of the drip of 2-3 cm. For clarity, you can use the following table depending on the indent from the angle and length of the slope of the valley.
After laying out the self-adhesive underlayment, remove the anti-adhesive film from its back. The film is not removed from the entire surface of the carpet, but only from one of its sides. After that, the part of the self-adhesive underlayment free from the film is glued to the base. Having fixed the carpet, we glue its second side in the same way.
Artem Azarov
We pay special attention to the axis of the valley. The carpet in this part should stick tightly, without the formation of voids and bubbles. When installing the lining carpet, when cutting it, a slight rounding is made in the lower part to ensure better water flow and its removal from the junction of the cornice strips.
When installing the underlayment, make sure that waves do not form on it, otherwise, after installing the tiles, they will be visible on the roof surface. All overlaps between carpets are smeared with bituminous mastic. The mastic is applied with a hard spatula. The thickness of the mastic layer should not exceed 1 mm.
Further, a special valley carpet is mounted on top of the lining carpet. When cutting a valley carpet, to beat off water, exactly the same rounding is made at the junction of the planks, as in the case of a lining carpet. Also, do not forget to ensure that the valley carpet lies tightly, and bubbles and folds do not form under it.
We glue the valley carpet to the lining carpet with mastic. We apply a layer of mastic around the entire perimeter of the valley carpet. Layer width - 10 cm.
Artem Azarov
After gluing the valley carpet, we additionally fix it mechanically - we nail the carpet around the perimeter with roofing nails with a wide head in increments of 20-25 cm and an indent from the edge of 2-3 cm. After we have mounted the valley carpet, we mark the gutter line and the zone, which cannot be pierced with nails when installing tiles. We beat off the lines with a marking cord.
Depending on the location of the house, the width of the gutter is from 5 to 15 cm. For example, if there are trees on the plot, the width of the gutter must be increased to remove foliage without hindrance. The zone impenetrable by nails is about 30 cm from the central axis of the valley.
If the water flow from the slopes differs significantly, then the valley chute must be shifted towards a smaller water flow to compensate for the water flushing of the junction of ordinary tiles and the valley carpet.
Conclusion
At the end of the material, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the most common questions that our users have when working with shingles.
nikolay11111 FORUMHOUSE user
The article contains information about the technology of roofing with bituminous tiles. The device of a roof made of soft tiles, the technology of laying bituminous shingles and the nuances of the installation process are disassembled. Having mastered the information received, you will know what and in what sequence the masters will do and ask the right questions that will show that you understand the topic.
Roof covered with soft tiles Source 999.md
Online roof calculator
To find out the approximate cost of various types of roofing, use the following calculator.:
Lathing for soft tiles
It is necessary to start with the analysis of the crate. Since bituminous tiles are flexible and thin material, lying on any plane exactly repeats all its forms. Therefore, the installation of a flexible roof is carried out only on a continuous crate, assembled either from boards, or from sheet or slab materials, for example, from moisture-resistant plywood or OSB.
The board lathing is laid on the roof truss system, leaving a gap of 1 cm between the boards. This is the so-called compensation gap in case of moisture and temperature expansion of lumber.
Plywood and OSB boards are laid on a sparse crate of boards 20-25 mm thick and 100 mm wide. The installation step of the boards depends on the size of the stacked sheets or slabs. For example, if plywood 125x125 mm is selected for a continuous crate, then the installation step of the crate elements should be within 70 cm. That is, the plywood sheet should lie on three boards, at least.
Solid plank sheathing Source krysha-expert.ru
And two important points:
a gap of 1 cm is left between the stacked plates or sheets;
the panels are laid with an offset of half the element, thus achieving a uniform distribution of loads on all sheets (plates).
Flexible tile installation technology
Like all construction processes, the laying of bituminous tiles is divided into two stages: preparation, and direct installation of roofing material.
On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer roofing services of any complexity. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".
Preparatory work
The first preparatory operation is the installation of a drip. This element, made of painted galvanized steel sheet, is a corner up to 3 m long. The width of each shelf varies between 15-25 cm. .
The dropper is attached to the crate with roofing nails, which are hammered into the upper shelf in a checkerboard pattern every 15 cm. Neighboring planks are overlapped with each other with an offset of at least 3 cm.
Installation of roofing (lining) carpet
First, what is a roofing carpet. This is a roll material from the category of bitumen-polymer. It is laid on the crate in order to:
Align minor defects of the lathing laid on the rafters.
Increase the waterproofing qualities of the roofing.
Prevent the formation of condensation on the wooden deck.
So, the technology of laying soft tiles on the roof begins with the installation of roofing material. First of all, it is laid in strips on valleys and cornices. But you need to start with the valleys. The lining material has a width of 1 m, so it is laid out so that it covers the slopes from the valley in two directions of 50 cm. At the same time, this type of material is self-adhesive, so the crate under it is not treated with adhesives.
Lining material laid on the valley Source gorizont-k.ru
On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of houses in the decoration of which the ventilated facade technology was used - from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".
Then lay the coating on the overhangs along the eaves. At the same time, the vertical hanging shelf of the dropper is half covered. Next, the remaining open area of \u200b\u200bthe roof slope is covered with rolled material. Here are a few nuances:
the strips of the roofing carpet are laid on the already laid ones (on the eaves and on the valley) so that the horizontal joints are overlapped by 10 cm, vertical by 15;
galvanized nails are hammered into each laid strip in places of overlap, that is, the fastener caps must remain under the edge of the adjacent strip, the fastener pitch is 20-25 cm;
the strips of the lining carpet, which cover the main part of the slope, are laid perpendicular to the eaves and the roof ridge, starting from the bottom, rolling the roll up;
each strip is fixed around the perimeter with nails;
to increase the sealing of the joints, the edges of the strips are coated with bituminous mastic.
Laying lining material on the roof slope Source eltctricon.ru
After the roofing carpet is completely laid, the gable strips are mounted. They close the edges of the laid material along the slope and will subsequently prevent moisture from penetrating under it. Installation of slats is carried out in exactly the same way as in the case of cornice elements.
Now it is necessary to strengthen the waterproofing qualities of the valley, because this element is subjected to the greatest loads from rain and melting snow. To do this, use a valley carpet - a roll-type material made on the basis of a rubber-bitumen composition reinforced with a polyester mesh. It is matched to the color of bituminous tiles.
It is simply laid out on a valley, glued to the lining carpet with bituminous mastic, which is applied under the edges of the material 10 cm wide. An additionally laid strip is punched along the edges with roofing nails. The step between the fasteners is 20-25 cm, the indent from the edges of the strip is 3 cm.
Installation of bituminous tiles
The preparatory stage of the installation of roofing tiles is completed. You can go directly to laying the roofing material itself. The first operation at this stage is the installation of the starting tiles.
In principle, where to start laying (from the middle of the eaves or from the edge), there is no difference. But experts recommend that with long cornices, installation should begin from the middle. Thus, it is easier to level the starting strip horizontally.
What is the start line. This is the same ordinary tile, in which the petals are cut off. Although many manufacturers produce a universal element that covers the roof eaves and its ridge.
Laying the starting strip is carried out along the eaves, stepping back from the edge of the overhang 1.5-2 cm. At the same time, it must necessarily cover the gable strips with its edges. This item is a self-adhesive material. But it must be pierced with roofing nails in the corners and along the perimeter every 20 cm, stepping back from the edges of the strip 2-3 cm. smeared with bituminous mastic.
Installation of the starting strip Source eltctricon.ru
Installation of ordinary tiles
The main requirement for laying the first row of soft tiles is an indent from the lower edge of the lining carpet, equal to 1 cm. An important requirement is the correct nailing of the material. The fastener should not cut into the roofing material, it should press it against the crate. Therefore, it is impossible to nail strongly or do it obliquely.
At the same time, each bituminous tile is nailed with four nails. The place of clogging is 2.5 cm from the upper edges of the petals. This is done so that the nail heads remain under the soft tile roofing element laid on top. If the angle of inclination of the roof slope is more than 45 °, then the roofing material is pierced with six nails.
Now, with regard to the layout of ordinary tiles. It all depends on the model of the material used. For example:
the Jazz model is laid regardless of the location of the petals;
model "Trio", "Sanata" are mounted with an offset of half the petal.
Laying and fastening ordinary tiles Source eltctricon.ru
Valley design
First of all, a valley zone is formed into which nails cannot be hammered. This distance is 30 cm in each direction from the axis of the valley. This is the most vulnerable place, where the accumulation of water is always large. Therefore, it is forbidden to make any holes in this area.
But the tiles themselves are laid, closing the valley area with a small gap of 5 cm. Only in areas where nails cannot be used, bituminous mastic is used. Therefore, these areas are treated with it, applying a width of 10 cm, and the tiles are laid.
Decoration of the pediment
Here the technology is the same:
installation is carried out so that a gap of 1 cm remains from the edge of the laid plank to the roofing material;
flexible tiles are glued to the base and the metal strip with mastic and at the same time fastened with nails.
Connection to the pipe
Chimney, ventilation pipes - elements that are necessarily present on the roofs. The most dangerous area is the junction of these pipes with the roofing material, so it must be hermetically sealed.
To do this, make a pattern of valley material or sheet iron coated with protective paint. But first, the walls of the pipes are closed around the perimeter with sheet metal, which is attached to the pipes with self-tapping screws. The height of such a plinth should be 30 cm.
A strip 50 cm wide is cut out of the valley carpet. It is laid near the pipes so that it covers the plinth (30 cm) and the laid bituminous tiles (20 cm). The method of fastening the strip is bituminous mastic.
An important point. First, the lower side of the pipe is closed in this way (meaning the lower side along the slope), then the two side ones go to the bottom, and at the end the top side goes to the side ones.
Next, the tiles themselves are laid, smearing the laid valley material with mastic. On the sides of the pipe, the tiles are laid so that it does not reach 8 cm from the pipe. It remains only to mount the metal strips, which are installed so that a visor is formed above the pipe walls. Therefore, the shape of the slats is Z-shaped. A strobe is laid on the pipe, where the upper shelf of the element is sunk. The strips are attached to the pipe itself with self-tapping screws. After that, the strobe joint is filled with silicone sealant.
Closing the plinth with a valley carpet and shingles Source bouw.ru
Sealing roof penetrations
Small pipes, antennas create joints in the roofing pie through which water can penetrate under the roof structure. When constructing a roof from soft tiles, these passages must also be taken into account. For their sealing use special rubber caps. They are laid so that they go 2 cm onto the laid tiles with their lower edge. A mark is made on the lining carpet where it is necessary to cut a through hole for the passage.
Cut a hole with a jigsaw.
Bituminous mastic is applied on the reverse side of the cap.
The cap is placed in place.
Fix it with roofing nails, punching around the perimeter.
A layer of mastic is applied on top of the skirt of the cap.
Carry out the installation of soft tiles.
The junction of the roofing material and the cap is filled with sealant, which is sprinkled with stone powder on top.
Skate decoration
To cover the roof ridge, a universal element is used, which was used as a starting strip. It is simply cut into three parts, each part is laid along the ridge across, hanging the edges from each slope, and nailed to the crate with roofing nails. The cut parts are laid from bottom to top along the inclined edge of the ridge with an overlap of 3 cm. In order for the cut parts to bend well along the ridge, it is recommended to warm them up a little with a building hair dryer.
How to close the ridge with soft tiles Source yandex.ru
To ensure ventilation of the roof, special ridge elements are used, in the design of which there are slots or holes. Through the latter, there is an outflow of air from under the roof structure.
The ventilation element is installed along the ridge, fastened to the crate with nails, and then bituminous tiles are glued on top.
Video description
How to properly mount shingles on the roof in the video:
Video description
For errors in the installation of shingles, see the following video:
Conclusion on the topic
So, the roof of soft tiles is ready. No other operations are required. The main task of the manufacturer of works is to strictly follow the instructions that come with the roofing material. It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that there are certain additions or changes in the ongoing technology for each model of tiles. They are also marked in the instructions.
The service life of a house largely depends on the strength and reliability of the roof, and this is achieved by using high-quality roofing materials. One of these materials is shingles, and today I will tell you how to install shingles with your own hands, in accordance with the technology and introduce you to some of the nuances of this process.
Preparatory stage: calculation of materials
- The calculation of flexible tiles is based on the surface area of the roof, plus a margin of 10%, since in the process of work, material waste ranges from 3 to 7%.
- Mastic is purchased based on the use of:
- valleys - 200g / m;
- ends - 100g / m;
- junction points - 750g / m.
- Galvanized roofing nails - 80 grams per 1 sq. m. (9 mm cap, length 3 cm, 3 mm rod diameter).
For the device of a roof from a bituminous tile you will also need:
- Steam and waterproofing membranes;
- thermal insulation material (mineral wool, extruded polystyrene foam or other type of insulation);
- Double-sided tape;
- material for arranging a base for bituminous tiles (chipboard, OSB-3, FSF, board);
- wooden bars for the counter-lattice.
- lining carpet.
Material consumption is calculated based on the roof area, plus a 10% margin.
Important! The rafter system must be strong, since the weight of the soft roof cake is quite large.
Having prepared everything you need, you can proceed to the stage of laying the foundation and actually installing the roof from shingles.
Foundation preparation
The technology of installation of flexible bituminous tiles provides for several stages, the implementation of which is carried out in a certain sequence.
Important! Before starting work, all wooden structural elements must be treated with an antiseptic to prevent damage, fungus or mold, and insects.
After the base for flexible tiles is ready, you can proceed to laying the lining carpet under the shingles.
The nuances of working with lining carpet
At this step, it is important to take into account the angle of inclination of the roof - the installation technique and the required amount of underlayment will depend on this:
- With a slope of the roof slopes of 12–18 degrees, the lining carpet is mounted in a continuous sheet.
- With a roof slope of more than 18 degrees, only the overhangs of cornices, valleys, and slope junctions can be sheathed with lining material, however, it is still recommended to make a solid carpet over the entire roof.
First, the valleys are covered, then the strips of material are laid in two ways:
- horizontally, starting from the bottom and rising to the roof ridge - blocking the lower strip, the upper one prevents moisture from leaking;
- vertically - the carpet is rolled from top to bottom. Fastening is done with nails on the ridge, then the material is stretched and fastened in the overhang area.
The overlap of the hydro-barrier strips should be 15 cm to the sides and 10 cm in length. The joints are additionally smeared with bituminous mastic (if there is no special adhesive layer on the roll), and also fixed with nails in increments of 25 cm.
Important! Applying mastic should be done in a thin layer, not more than 1 mm. If it is necessary to dilute the bituminous mastic, one should not overdo it with the solvent - neglecting this requirement threatens that the bituminous coating may swell.
Installation of cornice strips
Laying of eaves and end strips is carried out to prevent deformation of the material under the influence of temperature changes and protect wooden structures from adverse environmental factors.
Metal cornice strips are installed with an overlap of 5 cm, and fastened with nails or screws in a checkerboard pattern in increments of 10–15 cm. The joints are fixed with two screws or nails.
From the side of the ends, the fastening of the strips is carried out in a similar way.
Due to the small size of the shingle, the rows of shingles may not be laid evenly during installation. To exclude this possibility, preliminary marking is carried out on the surface of the roof.
- along the edges of the roof from top to bottom, with the help of a level, two vertical lines are drawn with chalk or a marker;
- then, perpendicular to them, longitudinal straight lines are drawn in increments of 25 cm.
Arrangement of the valley
When the lining carpet is ready and the end strips are installed, the valleys are covered with a special valley carpet, which is selected in accordance with the color of the tiles. The carpet is fixed using bituminous mastic, which is distributed along the perimeter of the canvas. The width of the mastic layer is 10-15 cm. Additionally, the valley carpet is fixed with roofing nails in increments of 15 cm. This process is described in detail in the video below:
Finishing the valley should start from the slope, which has the most gentle angle, or from the slope with a shorter length. On the carpet, parallel to the axis of the valley, it is necessary to draw or beat off two lines:
- the first at a distance of 5-7 cm - this will be the so-called gutter line, along which the shingles will be cut;
- The second at a distance of 30 cm from the axis - the last nail will be hammered along this line, that is, it is impossible to mechanically fasten the tile closer than 30 cm to the axis of the valley.
The tile shingles that reach the first line are cut off, and their upper edges are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. Mastic is applied to the tiles and the valley, after which they are pressed against each other. The second line is fastened with nails.
For roof pitches less than 45 degrees, one shingle is nailed with five nails. With a slope angle of more than 45 degrees, fastening is carried out with at least 8 nails.
Technology of laying cornice and ordinary tiles
According to the technology of laying flexible tiles, it is necessary to start the installation process from the bottom of the slope (with an indent from it of 2-3 cm). The first row can be laid in two ways:
- using special cornice tiles;
- in the absence of such, petals are cut from ordinary shingles, and the resulting strips are used as cornice elements.
The strip is fastened with nails (the indent from the edge must be at least 25 mm, as in the photo above), or, if the installation is carried out in cold weather, the shingles are heated with a building hair dryer and glued to the cornice strip.
Arrangement of junctions to pipes
There are several ways to adjoin a soft roof to a brick pipe. The first is to install a metal apron that matches the material and color of the shingles. On sale there are special kits that include everything you need for installation. 
The second is to use pieces of the valley carpet, from which the lower, side and upper elements of the junction with the pipe are cut.
Previously, a plinth or a triangular bar is laid in the base of the pipe, on top of which a lining carpet is laid. The pipe itself is plastered and treated with a bituminous primer.
The junction device takes place parallel to the installation of an ordinary flexible tile:
- The shingle adjacent to the bottom of the pipe is cut along a triangular rail and attached to the base;
- Next, the lower element of the junction, cut out of the valley carpet, is mounted first, then the side and upper elements. They are smeared with mastic and glued to the pipe (to a height of at least 30 cm) and the lining carpet (with an overlap of at least 20 cm);
- a strobe is cut out in the brick, into which a metal junction bar (apron) is inserted. Its fastening to the pipe is carried out mechanically, using nails, dowels or screws, and the joint is glued with polyurethane sealant;
- the remaining ordinary flexible tile shingles are laid over the adjoining element, glued to it with mastic, and additionally fastened with nails.
This whole process is illustrated in detail in the video:
If it is necessary to install ventilation or aerators, seal round holes in accordance with the illustration below:
Laying ridge elements
The device of the roof ridge made of flexible tiles is carried out using ridge elements. The sequence of actions is as follows:
If additional ventilation is required, a plastic ridge aerator can be installed on the ridge. It is attached to the roof with long nails, and is covered with tile tiles from above.
In conclusion, I suggest you watch a video where absolutely all the steps for the technology of installing flexible tiles are considered in detail:
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