Plasterboard wall installation. Detailed installation instructions for plasterboard partitions. Drywall partition device

As they say: My home is my castle! Let's talk about how to create fortress walls with your own hands. One of the most popular materials for leveling walls and creating partitions is drywall. Do DIY plasterboard walls not only fast, but also reliable. Drywall is a sheet of gypsum, pasted over on both sides with sheets of paperboard. Its main task is to create even and smooth surfaces. It is similar in characteristics to wood, but compared to it, it is fire resistant, which means it does not burn. The advantage of drywall is its low thermal conductivity, which maintains the macroclimate in the house. Drywall is environmentally friendly. It is advisable to start doing the installation of the cladding during the finishing work. When the wiring of technical and electrical systems is completed. At a temperature not lower than +10° C. In winter, with the heating turned on.

What is required for work:

Level
simple pencil
Electric or manual scissors for cutting metal.
Screwdriver to drill self-tapping screws into the structure.
A cutter, with its help you will carry out a cut with a bend, which will serve as a fastening of the profiles to each other.
Direct suspension - necessary for hanging the structure on the ceiling.
A single-level connector in the common people is a crab - it is necessary to connect the structure at the same level.
Self-tapping screws. For connecting drywall and profiles to each other
Measuring tool, it can be a standard tape measure or laser.
Construction material - Gypsum board.
Construction knife.
Profile. To install drywall walls, you will need a rack profile and a guide.

Grooves are made in the rack-mount for centering fasteners. And specially designed technological holes for laying the channel cable and other wires.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step execution of drywall walls:

Markup. To begin with, we mark the design position of the partition on the wall and ceiling.
Frame installation. We cut the profile for the guides to the required length with special scissors. To improve the soundproofing characteristics, a sealing tape equal to the width of the product is glued to the guide profiles. Using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver, we fasten the guide profile to the ceiling, pay attention if the wall is strongly curved, then pressing the profile to it, we deform it. In such cases, cut the profile before fixing, and then fix it.
By level, we measure straight lines to the floor. It is necessary to make and cut a profile that is mounted on the floor. The distance between the attachment points is no more than 1 meter, with at least three attachments per profile.
Install side profiles. In the corners, they are interconnected with the help of a cutter, and they are attached to the wall with a screwdriver and screws.
We determine the height of the rack profiles using a measuring device. Cut the rack profile to size. Next, we mount the rack profile. Make sure that it is strictly vertical. For greater reliability, attach the rack profile to the wall using hangers.
We install transverse stiffeners, which are interconnected using fasteners and a single-level connector, the so-called crab. A space is formed between the system and the wall, which, if necessary, is filled with mineral wool. To protect your hands from injury, work must be done with gloves. Mineral wool will serve as a heater and sound insulator. So, the frame for installing drywall is ready. The top structure rests on profiles, as well as transverse profiles, which give rigidity to the structure. The design is aligned horizontally and vertically.
Now we are preparing a drywall sheet. Check if it fits the design parameters. If there is a need to cut the sheet, first mark the required size on each side, then attach a metal ruler, cut the cardboard and part of the gypsum core with a cutting knife. Break the sheet along the notch line, and cut the cardboard along the other side of the sheet. Attention! It is not advisable to draw a line with a pencil and make an incision along the line. In this case, you will not be able to cut straight, it is better to cut along the ruler. After preparing the drywall sheet, begin to close the structure. For the installation of building material, you will need self-tapping screws with a countersunk head. The screws should enter the drywall at a 90° angle. When attaching building material, the sheet must be less than the height of the room and is 10 mm from the floor. After everything is installed, you can complete the positions associated with sockets and light bulbs.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard walls by gluing.

The frame method is not the only way to level the wall surface. There is another option - gluing a sheet of drywall. Gluing is the simplest way to veneer a surface with drywall. Gluing is suitable if you need to save squares of a house or apartment. Let's take a look at the gluing process. An important role is played by surface preparation, this should not be missed in any work. What includes surface preparation, first of all you need to check the base for sags, weak areas, remove plaster or wallpaper. Also clean from dust.

Remember! When installing profiles, the backrests must face the same direction. Make sure that the openings for passing communications are at the same level in accordance with the project.

Absorbent surfaces are pre-treated with a deep penetrating primer, which must be dried for at least 4 hours. If the base unevenness is more than 20 mm, level the surface by gluing strips of drywall 10 cm wide. Take ordinary mounting glue. We do not recommend taking risks and gluing to something else, for example, some recommend using mounting foam, but this method most likely will not live up to expectations. The glue is poured into a container, after which it is filled with water, and mixed with a special mixer. A different cooking sequence will result in lumps and the risk of an unworkable mixture. The glue is applied with a trowel on the sheet or directly on the base in small flat piles at a distance of about 20 cm and from the center of the sheet in 35 cm increments. It is advisable to work with the glue quickly, otherwise it may freeze. After applying the adhesive, the drywall is lifted, placed on linings 10–15 mm high from the floor level and pressed against the wall.

With light blows, it is brought to the design position by checking the verticality or horizontality with a level. Further work is carried out similarly with the rest of the sheets. After completion, you can start filling the joints using reinforcing tape, putty and a spatula.

Attention! It is not necessary to drill holes in the profile in advance for their subsequent fastening.

Plasterboard wall finish.

Well, here is the finish line. It doesn't matter which of the two methods is used for wall cladding with drywall. In any case, now it remains to putty all the defects that affect the aesthetic side of the structure. Finishing is identical. The preparation of drywall for finishing can be either puttying the seams or completely puttingtying the surface. If drywall sheets have irregularities and defects, then they must be removed. Then we apply sealing tape to the joints. It is necessary to close up all the joints, and then proceed to the putty. To work, you will need a spatula and putty mixture. When working with gypsum mixtures, use tools and utensils made of stainless material. Puttying work is carried out from 5 to 30 C. in a draft-free room. The spatula should be slightly curved in an arc in order not to leave marks. According to the rules, putty must be applied from dry to wet, if applied from wet to dry, traces will remain. We advise you to pay special attention to sealing the recesses from the self-tapping screws. For wallpaper, one layer of putty is sufficient, if the walls are to be painted, two layers are needed. After finishing the putty, you can start decorating the walls. You can wallpaper, paint, decorate with decorative ceramic tiles or finish with stone.

"Don't judge a house by the owner, but judge the owner by the condition of the house." Are the fortress walls ready? You have made a good choice, as this building material has a lot of advantages. 11 advantages of drywall:

A large selection that offers different characteristics for any conditions.
Available in price. In comparison, if you plaster and putty, finishing with plasterboard sheets will cost several times cheaper.
Possesses the heat-insulating ability.
Soundproof.
Small specific weight. When finishing with drywall, slight pressure on the foundation and supporting structures.
Easy to use. Suitable for both professional and novice.
The material has the ability to absorb moisture when there is an excess in the air and gives it away if the air is too dry.
Refractory. Refers to non-combustible materials.
Reliably. Over the years, it does not crack, does not crumble.
Environmentally friendly material.
Design possibility. Thanks to drywall, you can embody original ideas in creating an interior.

Making drywall walls with your own hands is quite easy. Provided that all actions are performed correctly, the result will be reliable and will serve you for many years! In conclusion, let's say that drywall is an obvious leader in the installation of various types of structures and wall alignment. Remember, the work must be done with a soul, then the result will please you and the rest of the family twice as much. Because home is not just a place, it is a state of mind.

Our topic today is a plasterboard interior wall. We will figure out how to build a frame for a plasterboard partition, how to sheathe it, how to install window and door blocks in the frame, how to make an arch arch and how to ensure maximum sound insulation of the wall. Let's get started.

How to install an interior plasterboard wall that is strong enough and provides acceptable sound insulation? Obviously, you need to start with the installation of the frame (see Mounting the frame under drywall on the wall with your own hands). For its construction, the author strongly advises not to use a bar, but a galvanized profile for the installation of gypsum boards.

There are several reasons:

Profiles have perfect geometry, but the bars often cannot boast of it;
Wood warps with fluctuations in humidity. Galvanized steel carries them without deformation;

The tree suffers from rot and insect activity, unlike its competitor. Antiseptic impregnation partly solves the problem, but it is partly - with consistently high humidity (typical, for example, for the operating conditions of the wall that limits the bathroom), the wood can still rot.

For the construction of the frame, we need profiles of two types:

Image	Description
	Rack profile CW with a width of 50 mm and a thickness of 50-100 mm. The thickness is selected depending on the requirements for the rigidity of the partition and on whether it is necessary to lay any large-section communications in its frame (sewerage, ventilation ducts, etc.). The length of the profile must be equal to or greater than the height of the ceiling, and the number of racks is selected for a step between them of 60 centimeters.
	The guide profile UW is responsible for fastening the frame to adjacent structures. Its thickness corresponds to the thickness of the uprights, with a fixed height of the side walls of 40 mm. The total length of all guide profiles must be at least equal to the perimeter of the future wall.

In addition to profiles, purchases will include:

Damper tape with a width corresponding to the width of the guides. Its task is to reduce the number of acoustic vibrations transmitted to capital structures from the partition frame;

Tip: instead of a damper tape, you can use rolled polyethylene foam cut into strips, which is used as a heater and a substrate for laminate and parquet.

Self-tapping screws for metal for connecting rails with racks. Length - 9 mm;
Dowel-screws for mounting rails.

Attention! In a wooden house, the guides are fastened with ordinary self-tapping screws at least 40 mm long.

The frame is mounted in the following order:

We mark the line of the partition on the floor, then with the help of a plumb line and a long ruler or profile we transfer the markings to the ceiling and walls;
We fasten the guides along the marking by placing a damper tape under the profile. Fastening step - no more than half a meter. To cut the profile, use only metal scissors: abrasive cutting with a grinder is contraindicated in thin galvanized metal, since its heating leads to zinc burnout and rust in the future;
We mark the positions of the racks. Step - exactly 60 cm along the axes of the rack profiles. In this case, the seams between adjacent sheathing sheets will fall in the middle of the uprights;

Recall: the standard width of a wall drywall sheet is 120 cm.

We cut to height and arrange the racks. We fasten each of them to the guides with metal screws on both sides. The frame is ready.

Tip: if the height of the wall is greater than the length of the sheet, it is advisable to install jumpers between the posts from the same CW profile at the level of the seam between the main and additional sheets. They will exclude the appearance of cracks under deforming loads.

Lesson 2: sheathing

Wall cladding with a thickness of 12.5 mm is used for covering the partition. Thinner ceiling plasterboard does not have sufficient strength, and may not survive an accidental elbow strike or carried furniture. Moreover, in rooms with high traffic (hallways, kitchens, corridors), the frame is sheathed in two layers on each side.

GKL can be ordinary (white) or moisture resistant (blue-green). The first is used in living rooms, and the second - in rooms with high humidity (kitchens, bathrooms and toilets).

Please note: drywall is purchased with a margin of 10-15% for trimming.

In addition to the plasterboard, to turn the frame into a wall ready for finishing, you will need:

Drywall screws or, in their absence, on wood. They differ only in the thread pitch: for wood fasteners, it is somewhat larger. Length - 25 mm (40 mm for fastening the second layer with a two-layer sheathing);

Reinforcement for seams- serpyanka (adhesive fiberglass mesh 5-8 cm wide);
Gypsum universal or finishing putty. Of the tested gypsum mixtures, the author liked the Turkish ABS Saten the most: it does not give lumps when mixed, and lives after kneading for at least 45 minutes.

Moreover, ABS that has begun to set can be diluted with water and continued to be used for another 15-20 minutes.

Let's break the entire sequence of work on sheathing and pre-finishing the wall into several technological operations and describe each of them in detail.

GKL cutting

In straight lines, drywall is usually not sawn off, but broken at the edge of any elevation, having previously been cut along the ruler by about a quarter of the thickness. After that, it remains only to cut through the cardboard shell from the back.

If the edge turned out to be slightly uneven - it does not matter:

Protrusions are removed with a special rasp within seconds;
Other defects are sealed when puttying the seams.
Curvilinear parts have to be cut according to the markings previously made on the sheet shell. For this are used:
A drywall saw (or, in its absence, a narrow garden saw);
Electric jigsaw with wood saw.

Important: the teeth of the file should look up, towards the sole of the tool. Otherwise, when cutting, it will try to bounce on the surface of the sheet, which is guaranteed to affect the accuracy of the cut line.

Drywall fixing

The sheet is installed vertically so that its edges fall on the middle of the racks, and is attracted to all the profiles covered by it (not excluding the guides) with self-tapping screws in increments of no more than 20 cm.

A few basic rules for installing drywall:

The minimum distance from the fastener to the edge of the sheet is 20 mm. Try to fasten the sheet closer to the edge - you will get a chipped edge;
The hat should sink a millimeter deeper than the surface of the kraft paper. It has to be sealed during puttying;

If the self-tapping screw broke through the drywall, then do not unscrew it - just screw another one next to it. You will remove the hole remaining in the wall sheathing when puttying.

Putty mixing

Gypsum mixes are sold dry and closed with water before use (see How to dilute putty during self-repair). Its quantity per unit weight of the mixture is always indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging - usually it is equal to a liter of water per 1.6 kg of gypsum.

Mixing putty is done like this:

Pour the required amount of water into a bucket or other wide container (no more than 3 liters, otherwise you have a chance not to have time to work out the putty before it sets);

Pour the dry mixture into the water, distributing it as evenly as possible over the surface;
After 3-5 minutes, when the gypsum swells, mix the putty with a spatula or whisk until a uniform consistency.

Caution: never pour water into dry gypsum mix. The price of violating this rule is insoluble lumps at the bottom, which will spoil the surface of the plasterboard when puttying.

Reinforcement and puttying

The seams are reinforced with sickle pasted on both adjacent sheets, and puttied with the first layer directly through its cells. The second layer is applied after the first has dried (at least after 12 hours) and hides the texture of the glass mesh. The pits from the fasteners are also puttied at least twice: the second layer compensates for the shrinkage of the gypsum during hydration.

The seams between the sheets cut in place, need to be jointed before puttying. From them, with a sharp knife, chamfers are removed by 2/3 of the GKL thickness. Jointing contributes to filling the seam with putty to the full depth and the absence of cracks.

If the factory edges of the PLUK (semicircular with thinning) make it possible to hide the reinforcement by applying a layer of putty flush with the surface of the gypsum board, then the edges of drywall sheets cut in place do not provide such an opportunity. If the seams stand out in thickness, puttying the entire surface of the partition will help to hide them.

This is done with a wide spatula - the putty is applied to it with a narrower tool, after which two maximally thin layers perpendicular to each other are applied to the gypsum board.

After the finishing layer of putty dries, the wall surface is sanded (with a grater or, which is much more convenient, with a grinder), cleaned of dust and primed with a penetrating acrylic primer for wallpaper or painting (see Primer for drywall for wallpaper - why is it needed).

Lesson 3: doors, windows

The interior wall of plasterboard is often equipped with a door or (in the case of a bath or bathroom) a skylight. How to embed a window or door block into a partition? The block (a box with a canvas or a frame) is mounted as an assembly at the frame assembly stage.

The procedure for installing a door is usually as follows:

We leave a gap in the lower guide for the entire width of the door frame;

We mount on a plumb line, strictly vertically one of the racks adjacent to the opening;
We expose the door block to a vertical position and fasten it with self-tapping screws screwed in from the side of the profile;

Tip: for greater reliability of fastening, sealant or mounting foam can be applied to the outer surface of the door frame.

In the same way, we mount the second rack on the opposite side of the block. At the same time, the door leaf must be wedged in the box with wooden wedges, scraps of plywood or hardboard - otherwise it may rub the jambs in the future;
We fix a jumper from a rack or guide profile above the door block.

The light window is mounted in the same way, but with two amendments:

The gap in the lower rail is not needed for obvious reasons;
There should be two jumpers between the racks adjacent to the opening - above the window and below it.

Lesson 4: maximum stiffness with minimum thickness

How to make a gypsum board wall as rigid as possible with its minimum thickness? In this case, guides and racks 50 mm thick are used to mount the frame.

Rigidity is provided in one of three ways or a combination of them:

Racks are connected in pairs (nested into each other or simply installed side by side);

The step between the posts is reduced to 400 or even 300 mm. Do not forget: the width of the drywall sheet must be a multiple of this step;
Wooden mortgages (50 mm bars) are embedded in the racks.

Lesson 5: arches

How to cut plasterboard arches into walls? The only difference between the frame of such a partition and the one described above is that the vault of the arch must be mounted with a flexible profile.

In this capacity, you can use:

Special arched profile;

Guide profile with side walls notched every 5-10 cm (depending on the radius of the plasterboard arch on the wall).

Covering the vault can be done:

Arched GKL 6 mm thick. It bends with a sufficiently small radius without damaging the shell and core;

Wall drywall, notched from the back to half the depth.
When fastened with screws to the frame, the vault forms a segmented surface.

A rounded shape is attached to the arch arch on a plasterboard wall when puttying.

Lesson 6: Soundproofing

The wall between the bedroom and the living room, for obvious reasons, should provide maximum sound insulation - a member of your family who hardly wants to sleep will be pleased with the sounds of a feast or watching the next blockbuster on a nightly television channel.

The simplest way to soundproof a plasterboard wall is to fill the cavities of the frame with mineral wool. For this purpose, it is best to purchase glued boards with a size of 1000x600 mm. Their dimensions allow you to install a heater between the racks with a standard spacing step, without cutting them in width.

In the photo - filling the partition frame with soundproofing material

However, the mineral wool will only dampen the acoustic resonance in the frame cavity. Meanwhile, the frame itself is also capable of transmitting acoustic vibrations from one side of the wall to the other.

The problem is solved by building two independent frames with a thickness of 50 to 100 mm each with a small gap between them. The cavities between the racks are filled with mineral wool; sheathing on each side is carried out in one or, which is much more reasonable, in two layers.

Conclusion

We hope that our lessons will help the reader to master the basics of building from GKL. To learn more about how interior plasterboard walls are built with your own hands, the video in this article will help you. Good luck!

Drywall is often the only available material with which to redevelop a room. Yes, and to give the walls a divine look is often possible only with the help of GKL. A drywall wall is good because you can do it yourself without hiring a team of professionals for such work. At most, one assistant may be needed.

Decorative plasterboard walls rationally zone the kitchen space

Understanding the installation technology, you can do all the work yourself, even without expensive equipment. At the same time, minor jambs during the repair process can be hidden and smoothed out during the final finishing.

Before you make a drywall wall with your own hands, you need to understand if this is the solution you need. Perhaps this technology is good only in certain situations and there are a number of cases when it is not applicable? Let's look at the pros and cons of creating walls using a metal frame and drywall sheets. We will not consider the installation option using adhesives now.

With the help of drywall, you can create walls of various shapes

The main advantage is the drywall itself. This material is inexpensive, durable and easy to handle. With it, you can create walls of various shapes.
No need to knock down old plaster or peel off wallpaper, somehow prepare the surface or plaster existing defects. GKL will be mounted on a special frame, so it does not matter what condition the old wall behind it is.
Plasterboard wall alignment is carried out using a frame made of metal profiles. So it doesn't matter how curved the surface was.
In the created frame, you can use insulation and sound insulation.
Under the drywall, you can easily make the wiring thanks to the frame of the profiles.
For repair work, a maximum of two people without special skills will be required.
The resulting surface will be perfectly smooth, so any finish can be used.

You can hide insulation, soundproofing or wires in the wall frame

What are the disadvantages

Despite a number of advantages, it is worth paying attention to some negative aspects of this process. The disadvantages include:

different installation technologies are used in different situations. Therefore, it is difficult to quickly gain the necessary experience. For example, not everyone will understand how to make drywall interior walls with their own hands, even if they have already sheathed one wall with drywall. It is one thing to attach the GKL to the frame against the wall and it is quite another to create a new wall, dividing the space in the room;
it is extremely difficult for one person to do the work, especially in large areas;
the crate under the drywall hides the place. Although it is convenient to mount gypsum boards on a wall from a profile, part of the area of \u200b\u200bthe room will still be lost. Although this is a dubious disadvantage, after all, empty space can be used for wiring or insulating materials (for example, mineral wool);
the strength of the new wall leaves much to be desired, because the GKL can be broken through with one blow of the hand;
too heavy objects cannot be hung on a new wall. Some shelves and paintings will hang normally, but drywall may not hold an air conditioner or a TV. Especially if you fasten everything without suitable knowledge and special fasteners. It is best to make embedded wooden bars in the frame in advance in the place where heavy objects will be attached in the future.

Drywall walls are not very strong

Only having dealt with all the nuances, you can determine for yourself how effective the installation of plasterboard walls will be in your particular case.

Preparation of working tools

Since we are talking about how to do everything with your own hands, we will consider the minimum set of tools that will be required for work.

With the help of a tape measure and a ruler, all measurements are taken.
A plumb line and water level will help to assemble a perfectly flat structure.
With the help of a construction knife or a hacksaw for metal, drywall is cut to the desired size.
A drill is needed to create holes for attaching a frame from metal profiles.
Metal shears will help cut the profile to the desired size.
A screwdriver will speed up the process of installing the GKL (with a curly screwdriver, the process will take longer).

To create a drywall wall you will need a screwdriver

Before you assemble a drywall wall, you need to acquire not only tools, but also materials:

wall drywall. Its thickness is 12.5 mm. Everyone will determine the length and width of the sheet for themselves. It is more convenient for someone to work with 3-meter sheets, but for someone, even 2.5 meters will seem too much. The width of the sheet in any case is standard and is 1.2 meters;
what profiles are needed for plasterboard walls? You will need to use two varieties: a guide 27 * 28 mm and a rack 27 * 60 mm. Jumpers are also created from them for structural strength;
dowels 6 * 40 mm are usually used to attach the frame to the walls, floor and ceiling;
the most popular self-tapping screws for drywall 3.5x25 mm or 3.5x35 mm. They need a lot;
additional "bugs" may be required. These are such small self-tapping screws for twisting profiles with each other.

For fixing drywall, be sure to use suitable profiles and self-tapping screws

Additionally, a sealing tape may be needed to increase the soundproofing properties of the GKL wall.

Markup for the perfect wall

Before attaching drywall sheets, you need to create a frame from metal profiles. They should be fixed in certain places, which must first be found. For this, primary marking is done, which indicates the places where the profiles will be located. If you want to know how to make drywall walls correctly, then you need to start with markings.

You need to find the most protruding part of the wall and start your markup from this area. On the ceiling in this place is marked with a marker. Usually this place is in one of the corners of the wall, because in the vast majority of cases it is the corners of the rooms that are littered in the apartments.

To mark the frame you will need a ruler and a plumb line

Using a plumb line, the master transfers the point on the ceiling to the floor. Further, using the profile and the water level, a straight line is drawn from the existing point on the ceiling along the wall to the other edge of the ceiling. There, again, the point is transferred to the floor by a plumb line. The dots on the floor are connected in a line. Now you can connect the extreme points of the lines on the floor and on the ceiling with more lines on the side walls.

After the markup, you can begin to assemble the wall frame from the profile for drywall.

Assembling a frame for a flat wall

On the existing four lines, you need to attach the guide profiles. You can drill holes with an ordinary drill, but if concrete comes across, it will be difficult to do it without a puncher. Holes are made not only in the surface to which the guides are attached, but also on the profiles themselves in this place.

Plasterboard wall frame consists of metal rails and parallel studs

After attaching the guides with dowels, we get a box into which the racks will be inserted. The interval between the attachment points is 60 cm. By analogy with the guides, the rack profile is pre-cut to the required length. The rack is wound into the guide vertically, first the bottom, and then the top. In order for the drywall wall created by your own hands to come out even, at each stage you need to carefully double-check everything using a level. The same applies to vertical posts.

Racks clearly go into the guide due to the fact that the profiles are correctly sized. However, in order to achieve greater reliability, the profiles at the joints can be additionally fixed with self-tapping screws "bugs".

Rack profiles are usually installed in increments of approximately 40-60 cm. When choosing a distance, it is worth considering that the drywall should be laid with its edge on the center of the rack. So that the sheets do not need to be cut, the optimal distance should be selected in advance. Do-it-yourself installation of drywall walls is troublesome, so there is no need to complicate it with the additional need to cut sheets.

The width of a standard drywall sheet is 1200 cm. They are installed vertically, which means that the distance between the posts should be 40 or 60 cm. Then the sheets will be stacked next to each other so that their edges do not hang in the air, but fall on the profile.

Sometimes sheets are laid horizontally to reduce the load on the frame. In this case, it is better to install racks in 50 cm increments, because the length of the sheet will be 2.5 or 3 meters (the edge of the sheet will again fall on the rack).

The distance can be counted starting from the extreme guide profile, because it is securely attached to the wall. It is clear that the rack profile is installed with the back side outward, because the GKL will be attached to it. It is only worth considering that the sheet will fall completely on the extreme profile, and not just to the middle.

Are jumpers needed?

Before you build a drywall wall with your own hands, you need to disassemble with one more important point. We are talking about creating jumpers, which many often forget about or simply do not want to fool themselves with this.

The jumper must be placed between the vertical posts and serves as an additional reinforcement of the frame. It is best to make jumpers from the guides themselves. It is customary to cut them 10 cm longer than the distance between the uprights. This is due to the fact that the jumpers from each edge are still cut by 5 cm so that they can be bent at a right angle and attached to the racks on the side.

Jumper cutting options

If the step between the racks is 40 cm, then there is not much point in using jumpers. If they were fastened at a distance of 60 cm, then it is worth using a cut profile so that the whole structure becomes stronger. Fasten the jumpers in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 50-60 cm.

We sheathe the frame with drywall - we create a new wall

You need to learn a few rules before applying sheets to the profile and turning on the screwdriver.

Between the sheets and the surface (walls, floors, ceilings), gaps of the order of 5-10 mm should be left.
All sheets should not fit in the same way, they must be alternated in a checkerboard pattern. For example, when the first sheet begins to be fastened from the floor, the next one should be fastened from the ceiling. This alternation reduces the load on the frame. The construction of drywall walls in this case slows down a bit, but the whole structure comes out more durable.
At the joints of drywall sheets, the edge must be removed (the exception is the presence of the factory edge). Putty will be laid in the resulting hollow, which will strengthen the seams, preventing further cracking of the outer layer of putty.
Drywall is screwed with self-tapping screws to the profile at all points of contact (along guides, racks and jumpers). Screws are twisted at intervals of 15-25 cm.

Keep track of the correct location of drywall joints

It is most convenient when one person presses the GKL to the frame, and the second one screws in the screws. Some people like to screw the sheet firmly around the edges, and then work with the middle. This is not worth doing, because the screws are screwed in order. In this case, the so-called "belly" will not appear, because the sheet will be leveled and moved away as the screws are screwed. If you immediately clamp the edges, then the drywall may begin to rise slightly in the center, which will lead to irregularities.

No need to screw screws into the very corners of drywall sheets. This very often results in damage to the material.

The self-tapping screw must enter the drywall evenly and flush. The hat should not stick out or go too deep. If you work with a screwdriver with a special bit with a limiter, then the screws will be screwed in very quickly to the desired depth.

It is undesirable to screw sheets at the joint at the same level with screws

Now you should not have any difficulties and questions about how to install a drywall wall with your own hands. It remains only to putty it and decide on the finish.

Last nuances

Finally, I would like to go through some points that can simplify the repair work.

If the chamfer from the drywall sheet has not been removed in advance, then this can be done in place. It is easily removed with a wallpaper knife at an angle of 45 degrees.

You can save a lot if you buy self-tapping screws with a length of 25, and not 35 mm. According to the rules, after screwing, the self-tapping screw should look out from the back by 1 cm, so many people try to take 35-millimeter ones with a margin, but this is not always justified. If the thickness of the sheet is 12.5 mm, then adding another 10 mm, on which the self-tapping screw should protrude, we get 22.5 mm. The thickness of the profile is insignificant, so that it can be ignored in the calculations.

The minimum thickness of a plasterboard wall is 4 centimeters. You need to add the width of the guides (27 mm) to the thickness of the drywall (12.5 mm). If we are talking about a partition in a room, then you need to add one more thickness of drywall, with which the wall is sheathed on both sides. The result is 52 mm. When creating a frame against a wall, it is customary to retreat from it by about 5 cm, so that it is convenient to work with profiles. Otherwise, it will be difficult even to drill holes.

However, when embarking on an independent construction of a partition, it is important not to lose sight of anything. Indeed, only in this case it is possible to achieve proper quality and durability, avoid unnecessary unrest during the installation process and save money at the same time.

Having decided on the place for erecting a drywall wall with your own hands, you can begin to form a list of materials and tools.

Having decided on the place for erecting a drywall wall with your own hands, you can begin to form a list of materials and tools. At this stage, you will need to make a number of measurements that will be needed for further calculations. Not only the height and width of the room at the place of construction of the partition are important, but also the dimensions of the doorway and, if any, windows. After all the dimensions have been fixed by you, you can arm yourself with a calculator and start compiling a list of necessary materials.

After all, only in this case it is possible to achieve proper quality and durability, avoid unnecessary worries during the installation process and save money at the same time.

Calculation of the necessary materials

The basic list of materials is as follows:

guide and rack profile;
sealing tape;
self-tapping screws and dowels for fastening the profile;
drywall;
self-tapping screws for fixing drywall;
wooden beam to reinforce the profile around the doorway;
heat-insulating material;
sleeve for insulation of electrical wiring.

Not only the height and width of the room at the place of construction of the partition are important, but also the dimensions of the doorway and, if any, windows.

In order to prevent unnecessary spending or the purchase of an insufficient amount of material, it is advisable to carry out preliminary calculations. With drywall, everything is very simple: you need to determine the area of \u200b\u200bthe future partition. To do this, we multiply the height of the room by its width at the installation site of the drywall wall and subtract the area of the doorway from the resulting number. If a single-layer sheathing is planned for hl, then the result must be multiplied by 2, in the case of a two-layer sheathing, by 4. For a wall, it is best to take standard sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm. Depending on the characteristics of the room, you have to make a choice between simple and moisture-resistant drywall.

In order to prevent unnecessary spending or the purchase of an insufficient amount of material, it is advisable to carry out preliminary calculations.

The guide profile is needed to connect the supporting part of the structure with the floor and ceiling. Based on this, we simply multiply the length of the future wall by 2 and get the desired amount of profile. With a rack profile a little more difficult. The recommended distance between the racks is 60 cm, so first you need to divide the width of the room measured in cm by 60, thus finding out the required number of racks. Then the resulting number is multiplied by the height of the room. Add two more wall lengths to the resulting number - these are jumpers to strengthen the structure.

With drywall, everything is very simple: you need to determine the area of \u200b\u200bthe future partition.

If there is a door in the plans, then the racks adjacent to the door must be strengthened with a wooden bar of the appropriate thickness. An alternative to a beam can be a reinforced thick-walled AU profile. The quantity is simple: the length of the two racks adjacent to the door plus the width of the doorway.

The guide profile is needed to connect the supporting part of the structure with the floor and ceiling.

Cooking tool

In order to avoid problems in the process of erecting a wall of drywall with your own hands, it is necessary to prepare in advance the tools necessary for the work. You will need:

roulette;
plumb and level;
metal scissors;
construction knife;
plane;
screwdriver;
grater.

Depending on the characteristics of the room, you have to make a choice between simple and moisture-resistant drywall.

The key to success: correct layout and installation

The most important and crucial moment in the assembly of the frame of the future partition is the markup. It is better to start from the floor. Then, using a plumb line, the walls and ceiling are marked. It is very important not to forget about a few nuances:

When marking a plasterboard wall, it is necessary to attach to two walls perpendicular to it and average the indicators. Without doing this, you can get a room with a visual curvature, because right angles are very rare in buildings and the wall opposite the partition can be oblique in relation to the other two.
The line you have drawn is an indicator for laying the guide profile, respectively, the partition will protrude beyond this line by the thickness of the drywall sheets, plaster and finishing material.

Work with a metal profile

Having finished with the markup, you can proceed to fixing the guide profile. Its laying is carried out using a sealing tape. Fix the guide profile with dowels and self-tapping screws. There should be an interval of no more than 50 cm between the fasteners. The edges of the guide profile are fixed without fail.

The next step in assembling the frame is to install and fix the rack profile along the edges of the guide. Then the racks of the doorway are installed facing each other. The distance between them should be taking into account the forthcoming sheathing of the hl. Next, the installation of the remaining racks is carried out, while the first of them is located at a distance of 55 cm from the wall, the subsequent ones are placed at an interval of 60 cm.

Drywall sheathing is a simple matter, but requires compliance with certain rules.

The distance between the uprights is measured from their centers. It is recommended that the carrier profile is first inserted into the lower guide, then into the upper one. Racks are fixed only after checking its position with a plumb line or level. If there is a dwelling on the floor above, then when laying the profile, it is advisable to use a building film. Its laying at the point of contact between two profiles will help to avoid the characteristic creak that is heard during a short-term increase in load.

The next step will be the installation of horizontal struts designed to strengthen the structure. To do this, it is necessary to cut the profile of the desired length, which is equal to the interval between the uprights plus 30 cm. Then, on the basis of the cut, marks are made on each side 15 cm from the cut line. After that, the sidewall of the profile is cut at an angle of 45 degrees, with a slope from the edge to the mark, and give it a U-shape. The workpiece is placed between the racks and fixed. The resulting ears are attached to the outside of the carrier profile.

The tightness of the sheets at the junction depends on the correctness of the cutting.

Similarly, horizontal lintels of door and window openings are installed. However, if they are planned to be rounded, then it is necessary to fix an additional spacer between the rack and the jumper at the desired angle.

Communications

An important point when creating a drywall wall is the laying of electrical wiring. First, it is threaded into a protective metal or non-combustible plastic corrugation sleeve. Then holes of the appropriate diameter are made in the supporting profile in the right places. In this case, it is important to bend the edges of the hole to one side and bend, in order to prevent damage to the wiring. Then the wires are pulled to the desired points of the structure.

A layer of cardboard is cut along the outlined line with a construction knife, then the edge of the support is brought under the cut line, and the gypsum is carefully broken off.

How to avoid mistakes?

Drywall sheathing is a simple matter, but requires compliance with certain rules. So, in order to avoid the appearance of cracks as a result of subsidence, it is recommended to leave a 10-15 mm gap along the lower edge of the wall at the junction of drywall sheets and the floor. And the self-tapping screws are screwed into the hl with a depth of 1 mm so that the cap does not break through the top layer of cardboard.

The best option if you do not plan to mount weighty interior items on the walls.

The tightness of the sheets at the junction depends on the correctness of the cutting. The best result will be with the following procedure. After placing the sheet on a flat surface, measurements are taken, the boundary is marked with a pencil. A layer of cardboard is cut along the outlined line with a construction knife, then the edge of the support is brought under the cut line, and the gypsum is carefully broken off. The sheet is then turned over and placed again with a cut line at the edge of the support. The second layer of cardboard is trimmed, but not through, and carefully chipped off.

This is a fairly durable material and even large sheets can be laid on their own, the main thing is to do it without jerking.

One layer upholstery

This is the best option if you do not plan to mount weighty interior items on the walls. At possible mounting points for wall lighting fixtures, it is necessary to reinforce the drywall with plywood or build an additional spacer into the frame.

Then holes of the appropriate diameter are made in the supporting profile in the right places.

If only hl is available to you, the length of which is less than the height of your apartment, then this is easy to fix without compromising the strength of the wall. It is simply necessary to use the experience of professionals when creating a wall with your own hands. The space not covered by the sheet is sheathed with fragments of the desired size. At the same time, it is necessary to avoid the coincidence of the seams at the same level, therefore, throughout the entire wall, whole sheets and their fragments must be alternated. That is, if in the first row a sheet is sewn from below, and a fragment is sewn on top, then in the next row there should be a fragment from below, and a solid sheet from above.

An important point when creating a drywall wall is the laying of electrical wiring.

All drywall joints should be chamfered. If there is no thinning of the sheet to the edge, then it must be formed using a planer. The edge of the sheet is thinned at an angle of approximately 22 degrees, but in such a way that a decrease in thickness of no more than 4 mm is observed on the cut line. Adjacent to the borders of the wall, the edges of the hl, on the contrary, should be devoid of a chamfer.

Double skin

A two-layer plasterboard wall sheathing is practiced when it is necessary to install a partition of increased strength. Sheathing rules differ little from a single-layer one, with the only exception: the joints of drywall sheets in the bottom sheathing layer do not have to be processed, forming a chamfer. It will only be needed on the sheets of the top layer.

Between fasteners there should be an interval of no more than 50 cm.

When sheathing the frame, it is also important to ensure that the seams do not match. To do this, the top layer is sewn with an offset of half the width of the sheet. In addition, it is important to increase the number of fixation points. Therefore, if with a single-layer sheathing it is sufficient to fasten with self-tapping screws with an interval of 25-40 cm, then with a two-layer sheathing, fixation on the profile with an interval of 15-20 cm is necessary.

When working with hl, avoid sudden movements.

Arch

If there is a desire to make a door or window opening semicircular, then you can independently bend a cut of the required size. To do this, you will need a frame of the required radius, which can be made from scraps of the same drywall and bars.

Adjacent to the borders of the wall, the edges of the hl, on the contrary, should be devoid of a chamfer.

Having prepared everything you need, a fragment of the hl of the desired size is cut off. Then one of its sides must be perforated with a needle roller and moistened with a sponge until a water mirror is formed. After that, the workpiece is moved to a frame prepared in advance and smoothly bent. The edges are fixed and left in this position until dry. After an hour, you can remove the clamps and, if the workpiece does not feel loose to the touch, proceed with the installation.

In addition, it is important to increase the number of fixation points.

First, the drywall arch is fixed in the center and edges, then screws are screwed in at all points of contact between the drywall and the frame. During the initial fixing of the sheet, it is important not to tighten the screws, leaving the cap 1-2 mm above the surface. Caps deepen after the leaf has completely dried.

It is important to carry out all work at a room temperature not higher than 15 degrees.

Heat and sound insulation

An empty drywall wall is like a drum that doesn't store heat. Therefore, immediately take care of heat and sound insulation. The required amount of material is calculated based on the area of \u200b\u200bthe wall and the thickness of the profile. The choice of material depends entirely on your preferences and financial capabilities. Comparative characteristics of the most common materials can help you navigate.

Having finished with the markup, you can proceed to fixing the guide profile.

Soundproofing material is laid before sheathing the second side of the wall. It is important to compact the material, avoiding gaps between the frame and the layers of thermal insulation. Also, before laying, make sure that the electrical wiring is connected to all the intended points of the wall.

Finishing

First you need to lay a mounting grid along the joints of the HL and level the recess formed by chamfers with the general level of the wall with a starting putty.

The most important and crucial moment in the assembly of the frame of the future partition is the markup

It is recommended to strengthen the corner of the doorway using a building corner. It is laid on the starting putty and pressed tightly to the surface. Then, with a spatula, excess putty is removed, simultaneously leveling the general level of the partition. It is desirable to process the angle between the walls with a sickle.

In order to avoid problems in the process of erecting a wall of drywall with your own hands, it is necessary to prepare in advance the tools necessary for the work.

The last step is to eliminate irregularities and roughness. To do this, you need to finish all the places of fixation with self-tapping screws with a finishing putty, simultaneously processing with it all the cracks and chips that appeared during the work. When the putty dries, it is important to smooth the surface using an abrasive mesh and floats. If in the future you plan to paint or paste over the wall with thin wallpaper, then it is definitely worth treating it with a primer.

When marking a plasterboard wall, it is necessary to attach to two walls perpendicular to it and average the indicators.

What you should pay attention to

It is important to carry out all work at a room temperature not higher than 15 degrees. Even if you are working with waterproof drywall, take care to impregnate the surface with a waterproofing compound, at least in the area of \u200b\u200bthe joints. When working with hl, avoid sudden movements. This is a fairly durable material and even large sheets can be laid on their own, the main thing is to do it without jerking.

If there is a door in the plans, then the racks adjacent to the door must be strengthened with a wooden bar of the appropriate thickness.

VIDEO: Drywall partition. Video lesson. We do it with our own hands. All stages

Working with do-it-yourself drywall walls that can be perfectly aligned, or used to build light, durable partitions, is quite affordable even for a novice builder. Drywall is excellent for finishing the concrete walls of high-rise apartment buildings and leveling curved surfaces in private homes. This material is able to reduce the high audibility from the street and additionally insulate the building envelope.

The great advantage of drywall over other finishing materials is that it can be used to create entire complexes of niches and shelves built into the wall, to perform original arched structures.

With the use of this material, it is carried out in two ways - by fixing drywall sheets to a frame crate or by gluing the GKL to the wall using a special gypsum-based mounting compound.

If the process of leveling surfaces using plaster mortars requires fairly high skills, and if there are large differences on the walls, even outstanding skill, then working with drywall in such a comparison can be called simple. The main thing in this process is to correctly and accurately perform each of the installation steps.

To put the walls in order without hitches and difficulties, you need to prepare well for this event by purchasing all the necessary materials and tools, as well as by studying the installation instructions for a particular structure.

Preparing the surface of the walls before leveling will also not be superfluous, especially since it will not take much time and effort, but will be of great benefit.

What is required for work?

Drywall installation tools

For the installation of drywall structures, special tools will be required, and, for gluing the material, a smaller number of them will be required than for fixing to the frame.

In order not to repeat and create two lists for each type of work separately, you can include them in one, but with a few clarifications.

Shurupov rt for mounting the frame and fixing the drywall on the crate.
Spatula of medium size for applying putty and glue.
Notched trowel for spreading the adhesive over the surface of the sheets.
or the usual building level - for marking and monitoring the evenness of the wall being mounted.
A sharp construction or clerical knife - for cutting material.
An electric drill with a perforator and drills for concrete - for attaching the frame structure to ceilings, walls, floors.
Nozzle-mixer for mixing glue (if drywall will be attached to the wall with it) and putty compounds.
Paint roller for priming wall surfaces.
Capacity for adhesive composition with a volume of approximately 8 liters.
Shears for cutting metal - for cutting galvanized profiles.
Planer for processingedges- chamfering.
Grout for processing sealed joints between sheets.
Grinder - "Bulgarian" and a disk for cutting thin metal.
Prosekatel - for fastening metal profiles to each other.

A rule that tests the evenness of a surface.
Measuring and control tool - tape measure, a plumb line, a long metal ruler, a square, a simple pencil or marker.

Materials for working with drywall

From the materials you will need to purchase:

Drywall, which must be ordered 10÷15% more than the required quantity.

Drywall is produced in four types, and each of them is designed for use in different rooms, depending on the operating conditions. The sheets have their own recognized color marking system, by which you can easily determine the intended purpose of the material:

Three main types of drywall - regular, moisture resistant and heat resistant

- Gray color has the usual drywall (gypsum plasterboard), used in residential premises with normal air humidity.

- The pink or light purple color of the cardboard indicates that it is a heat-resistant material used for wall cladding around fireplaces and stoves. It is defined by the acronym GKLO.

- Green shades are inherent in a moisture-resistant material that is suitable for wall decoration, for example, in a bathroom. It is designated by the letters GKLV.

- Dark gray or blue color is assigned to drywall, which combines the qualities of both heat resistance and moisture resistance. This type is denoted by the letters GKLVO, and it is used to decorate the walls of baths or boiler rooms.

The dimensions of the sheets of various types of drywall vary as follows:

drywall type	Thickness in mm	Width in mm	Sheet length in mm
GKL	8,0; 9,5; 12,5;14; 16	1200
GKL	18 and over	600	1200
GKLV	10; 12,5; 14;16	1200	standard - 2500 (on request - up to 4000 mm)
GKLO	12,5; 14; 16	1200 and 600	likewise
GKLVO	12,5; 14; 16	1200	likewise

Metal profile for installing wall lathing or mounting a frame partition.

Profile name	Profile brand	Application area
guide	PN 50/40	Frame guide profiles for wall cladding and partitioning.
	PN 75/40
	PN 100/40
rack	PN 50/50	Racks of a framework of partitions and lathings of walls.
	PN 75/50
	PN 100/50
	PP 60/27	Frame walls and suspended ceilings.
guide	Mon 28/27	Frame walls and suspended ceilings.
Protective corner profile	PU 20/20	Protection of external corners of partitions and walls.
Note: in the marking of profiles, the first number indicates the width, the second the height of the element. Profiles are produced in a standard length of 3000 mm.

Direct hangers - for fixing racks to the wall, if it is necessary to create a large thickness of insulation or level the wall with large differences.

Sealing tape, which is glued to profiles mounted directly to the wall.

Dry mortar - mounting adhesive for fixing drywall to walls without installing a crate.

before installing drywall and for training assembled structure to further puttying.

Gypsum-based putty - for sealing joints between sheets and subsequent finishing alignment of a plasterboard wall.
Reinforcing tape or mesh - for gluing joints when them puttying.

Special self-tapping screws for working with drywall.

Dowels for fixing profile racks on a brick or concrete wall, ceiling, floor.

Thermal insulation material - if it is planned to insulate or soundproof wall or partition.

Prices for drywall and sheet materials

Drywall and sheet materials

Preparatory activities

Whatever method of mounting drywall on the wall is chosen, it is necessary to prepare the surface before installing it. This must be done so that mold or fungus does not develop under the drywall, and when gluing the material, it fits snugly against the wall. The preparation process is not so complicated, but it will guarantee the long operation of the new wall without repair work.

The work can be conditionally divided into three stages - this is cleaning the wall, sealing cracks and priming the wall with antiseptic compounds.

The first step is to clean the wall of old coatings, such as old peeling plaster and unnecessary wallpaper. If the plaster is solid and adheres well to the wall, then it can only be primed.
Cleaning can be done with a spatula. If you have to remove the wallpaper, then it is recommended to wet it intensively by applying water to the surface using a roller with a soft nozzle. When the wallpaper gets wet, it will more easily move away from the wall if you pick it up with a spatula.
If the plaster layer is unreliable, unstable, flaking, covered with cracks, then the damaged areas must be removed. This can be done in two ways:

- The first option is to knock down the old finish with a puncher, or manually - with a chisel and a hammer.

- The second option is to abundantly soak the plaster and carefully peel it off the wall with a spatula.

If a brick wall is leveled by gluing drywall, then it is imperative to remove all protrusions from it that could remain on it upon completion of the masonry. The protrusions will interfere with a good fit of the sheets to the surface. Such irregularities are knocked down with an ordinary hammer or with a puncher.

After that, the brick wall must be thoroughly cleaned with an iron brush from the remnants of sand-cement mortar and dust.

Further, if serious cracks are found on the wall, they must be expanded, cleaned, and after it dries, sealed with a plaster mixture, sealant or mounting foam. The latter option is suitable if the crack in the wall or plaster layer is large enough.
The next step is to treat the wall with an antiseptic primer. It is applied with a roller.

Priming is a mandatory event, and it is better to carry it out in two layers.

All further work is carried out after complete drying of the wall surface.

Prices for different types of primer

Primer

Alignment of walls by gluing drywall

Mounting drywall with gluing is much easier than mounting it on a frame. However, this method of fixing the finish is possible only if the wall surface does not have significant irregularities and deformations in the form of protrusions and recesses of more than 5 mm, and the ceiling level in the room does not exceed 3 meters.

This method of installation is not suitable even when the wall is supposed to soundproof or, since the materials for this will require a certain space under the drywall sheets.

This method is well suited for leveling not too high-quality walls to the ideal and creating a smooth surface for subsequent application or gluing of decorative finishing material.

Gluing works are carried out as follows:

The prepared wall must be measured using a plumb line and a building level. If dents are found on the wall, they must be brought to the same level with the common surface, since in these places, after the installation of drywall, voids may form where condensate will collect. This is especially important to do in cases where.

You can bring all the recesses and dents to the same level using self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the wall at a distance of 200 ÷ 300 mm from each other and up to the same level with the entire wall. Then, a plaster mortar of the required thickness is applied on top of them and equalized with the caps of the self-tapping screws and the rest of the surface.

Before proceeding to the next stage of work, it is necessary to wait for the mortar to harden well, as the drywall sheet will rest on it.

The next step is to apply another coat of primer.

The primer will not only protect the wall from various biological influences, but also create reliable adhesion between the wall, adhesive and drywall, which will speed up installation and improve the quality of work.

Next, the mounting adhesive solution is mixed. To do this, water at room temperature is poured into the container, into which a dry powder mixture is poured and kneaded using a construction mixer or a drill with a nozzle installed on it. The manufacturer must indicate the proportions of the preparation of the solution in the manufacturing instructions, which can always be found on the packaging.

It is very important to remember that gypsum-based glue starts to harden very quickly, so it is better to knead it in small portions, otherwise you can spoil a large amount of the solution. If the process has begun with a grasping, it is impossible to stop it, even by adding an extra amount of water on an emergency basis.

Further, it is required to provide that the drywall sheet during installation does not rest against the floor surface, it must be raised from it by about 8 ÷ 10 mm. Therefore, a rail of this thickness is temporarily placed under the sheet to be mounted.
A drywall sheet is laid horizontally on the floor, and an adhesive mass is applied pointwise on it, in slides, at a distance of 180 ÷ 200 mm from one another. After that, the solution is slightly distributed, the sheet rises, is installed in the right place and pressed against the wall.

The installed drywall sheet can be corrected, trimmed in the range of 7 ÷ 10 mm, for example, by tapping on it with a building level or a rule. If an unclosed space remains on top (and this is how it most often happens), then it will be best to veneer with GKL fragments only after the installation of entire drywall sheets that give direction to the entire wall is completed.

Further, the work proceeds in the same order. All sheets are installed to each other end-to-end, with factory chamfers attached. Additional fragments, chamfers at the place of the cut, of course, do not have. It is not on the end sides of the GKL either. This means that for such joints it must be done independently, using a plane or a knife.
At the end of the installation, the glue is allowed to dry thoroughly, so the lined walls are left for about a day.
After that, you can proceed to sealing the joints. First, it is recommended to treat them with a primer, and then, after the soil has dried, the joints of the sheets are glued with a sickle mesh, which reinforces the joints, and the putty layer applied on top does not crack.

A thin layer of putty is applied to the joints glued with a mesh using a spatula. It is best to level it immediately to the maximum, so that after hardening there is less smoothing work.

If the serpentine tape does not have its own adhesive base, then first, a serpentine is applied to the joint, and then a serpentine is applied on top of it, and then pressed into the solution with a spatula, after which the excess is removed.

When the putty dries, it is rubbed with a special tool - grout, on which fine-grained sandpaper or abrasive mesh is installed.

After completion of sealing and drying of the joints, the entire surface is covered with a primer, which must also dry completely.

High-quality puttying is the key to the aesthetic appearance of a plasterboard wall

Whatever technology is used when installing a drywall wall, the final step before finishing is giving surfaces of perfect evenness and smoothness with putty. How to do it right or for painting - in a special publication of our portal.

Alignment of the wall with drywall using a frame structure

Mounting on a frame is more difficult, but opens up more possibilities

Mounting drywall on the frame is a more complex and troublesome option, but you can’t do without it if you plan to additionally insulate the wall and soundproof. The frame can be made of galvanized metal profiles or wooden beams.

Illustration
	Preparatory work is underway. The wall is cleaned of loose plaster and treated with a primer. When leveling the wall with drywall, whether the structure is with or without insulation, it is necessary to cover the base surface with an antiseptic composition. Next, the wall must be marked out by marking vertical lines on it, which will serve as a guide for installing racks. The step between the drains is taken equal to 400 or 600 mm - these values fit well into the standard width of the gypsum board 1200 mm.
	The next step is to fix the guide profiles to the ceiling and floor, into which the racks will be installed and fixed.
	Profiles can be fastened to the floor, walls and ceiling with dowels, depending on the surface material - driven or screwed. Profiles can be fixed to wooden bases with self-tapping screws.
	To improve the quality of sound insulation, prevent the transmission of vibrations to the frame and resonate the plasterboard coating, before fixing the profiles to the floor, ceiling or wall, it is recommended to stick a special tape on its shelf adjacent to the surface.
	Having fixed the upper and lower guides on the flow and the floor, ideally exactly in the same vertical plane (this must be controlled with a plumb line), you can proceed to the installation of the racks. It must be remembered that how accurately the guides are set, the entire drywall wall will be so even.
	The racks of the frame are installed inside the guides, set along the marking lines, they are given a vertical position, and then they are fixed with a notcher. If there is no such tool, then fastening can be carried out using self-tapping screws.
	In this photo, the mounted frame is clearly visible, but it has not yet been finally fixed to the wall with the help of hangers.
	Further, each of the racks must be fixed with several straight hangers. These brackets are fixed on the wall with dowels at a vertical distance of 500 ÷ 600 mm from each other.
	Then, with the help of self-tapping screws, the racks are fixed to the suspensions (the verticality of the profile must be checked again). This makes the structure rigid, connected to the main wall.
	In this photo, the racks of the entire frame are fixed to the wall, and the crate is ready for further work.
	The protruding parts of the suspensions are bent to the sides. When the crate is ready, all communication wiring can be laid if, for example, it is planned to mount sockets or switches on this wall.
	If the wall is additionally insulated, then after the installation of the frame is completed, thermal insulation material - mineral wool - is laid between the racks. Further, the insulation must be closed with a vapor barrier membrane. It is attached to a wooden crate with a stapler and staples, and to a metal one - using double-sided masking or mounting tape.
	After that, proceed to the installation of drywall. The bottom sheets, in accordance with the technology, are recommended to be installed with a gap of about 10 mm from the floor - for this, temporary linings, for example, a wooden lath, can be used during the installation process. This is necessary so that the sheet from below does not begin to crumble under its own weight. Usually the height of the sheet is not enough to close the entire space of the wall to the ceiling - there will be a section on top, which will later be covered by a separate fragment. It is recommended that sheets, starting from the second and further, be laid “in a run-up”, so that the horizontal seams are spaced apart: one from above - the next from below, etc. An example is shown in the figure.
	Drywall is fixed with special self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the profiles directly through the sheet, without pre-drilling. Fastening is carried out in all racks and jumpers (if any). In this case, the self-tapping screw should not be located closer than 10 mm to any of the edges of the sheet. The head of the self-tapping screw, after screwing in, should “drown” in drywall by about 1 mm. The step between the screws is from 250 to 350 mm. If suddenly the self-tapping screw “did not go”, then after removing it, another cannot be screwed into the same hole - you need to step aside by at least 50 mm.
	In this photo, the remaining area unfilled with drywall is clearly visible, and it has to be closed. To do this, it is necessary to install a cross-beam from the profile between the racks, to which the upper edge of the already mounted sheet and the lower side of the missing fragment will be attached with self-tapping screws.
	To fix the crossbar on the racks, you can fix the corners specially made from profile sections.
	The finished cross member is installed between the uprights, half slides under the installed sheet and fastened to the corners using a notcher or self-tapping screws.
	Another option for making a jumper. Measure and cut off from the profile a segment equal to the distance between the uprights plus the width of the upright profile, since the wide part of the cross member must be on the uprights between which it will be fixed. Then, the side shelves of the crossbar are cut to a distance equal to half the width of the profile, and are bent outward at a right angle. They will become the shelves through which the fastening is carried out using a notcher or self-tapping screws.
	A piece of plasterboard sheet of the required dimensions is measured and cut out. After that, it is attached to the racks and the upper part of the installed cross member. A chamfer is made along the edges of the sheets at the junction with a sharp knife or planer - this is necessary in order to be able to putty the joining line of the fragments with high quality. Such a chamfer is made on all edges where it is not provided for by the sheet design itself. Fragments are fastened with self-tapping screws according to the usual rules.
	A wall sheathed with drywall should look something like this.
	After that, a sickle mesh is glued to all joints, and then they are sealed with putty. In addition, all the holes must be puttied, from the caps of the self-tapping screws so that they do not later appear as rusty spots through the decorative finish. The final stage of work is the coating of all walls sheathed with drywall with a primer, and after it dries, with putty.

Installing a lightweight plasterboard partition

Installation is somewhat similar to wall cladding on a frame structure. But there are also differences here, the frame is fixed to the walls only from the ends, and is sheathed with drywall on both sides.

The frame partition made of GKL has the following basic design:

The frame is mounted from a wooden beam or a galvanized metal profile. The frame racks are mounted at a distance from each other based on the width of the drywall sheet, so that its edges are half their width, and at least one rack is located in the middle of the canvas. It should be noted that quite often the frame is made combined, that is, in some places a wooden beam is inserted into the metal profile for rigidity.
The frame is sheathed on both sides with drywall. Sometimes sheathing of one or both sides and two layers of material is practiced.
Between the sheets of cladding, soundproof (insulating) mats- as a rule, basalt mineral wool is used for this.

Installation of a plasterboard partition is carried out as follows:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The first step is to determine the place of installation of the partition, its marking is carried out. To do this, points are determined on the wall and on the floor using a laser or conventional level and a tape measure, which are then combined into lines using a colored paint cord.
	Then, focusing on the line on the wall and floor, using a plumb line, the points for beating the markings on the ceiling are determined.
	Immediately you need to determine the location of the doorway and make marks on the ceiling and floor for the installation of perfectly vertical racks. The fixing of the horizontal guide on the floor is carried out only before and after the measured area allotted for the doorway.
	After accurate marking of all surfaces, the area of \u200b\u200bfixing metal profiles will be immediately visible. The rails are fixed first to the walls, ceiling and floor, into which the racks will then be installed.
	These elements are fixed with dowels (self-tapping screws are used for wooden bases). First, through holes are drilled through the guides, and then dowels are inserted and driven into them (self-tapping screws are screwed in).
	Further, when the frame for the frame is ready, you need to immediately install the racks that will frame the doorway. It is recommended to immediately make tabs from a wooden bar into these profiles. Racks are installed from floor to ceiling and are fixed in the rails with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in from both sides.
	It is even better if two racks are installed next to them, combined with bars. This design will make the frame more rigid and reliable.
	The next step is to measure and mark the height of the doorway, where the transverse element will be fixed, completing its formation. To do this, the profile is cut at the corners, the side parts are bent and fixed on the racks.
	In order to stiffen the crossbar and the entire opening, the crossbar must be additionally connected to a rail fixed to the ceiling with one or two short posts.
	Further, all other racks are installed in the guides and fixed strictly in a vertical position with the help of a notcher or self-tapping screws. The step between the uprights is the same as indicated in the previous instructions - 400 or 600 mm.
	After installing the racks, you can proceed to the installation of drywall sheets. They are installed and fixed according to the same principle as when sheathing a wall. In the area of \u200b\u200bthe doorway, drywall should not be cut in advance. It will be more convenient to fix a solid sheet to the frame, and make cuts on it with a sharp knife on the spot.
	The upper side of the resulting rectangle is cut through, and on the side, longer, only cardboard is cut - then it will break exactly along the notch.
	Having finished the installation of drywall sheets on one side, you can start laying communication cables, for which small holes are made in certain places of the profiles - with the expectation that a pipe with wires (corrugated or smooth-walled) passes through them. It is forbidden to pass cables through holes in galvanized profiles without a tube-sleeve.
	In the chosen place, where the placement of sockets and switches is planned, socket holes are drilled on the installed GKL sheets for mounting socket boxes. They are connected to the cabling.
	If this has been planned, thermal and sound insulation material (mineral wool) is laid. Insulation panels or mats must be installed spaced apart between the posts.
	After completing the soundproofing process, a door frame is installed in the doorway. It is leveled, and if necessary, wedges are carefully driven into the gaps between it and the frame to help fix it in the desired position. Then, it is screwed to the frame racks. If large enough gaps remain around it, they must be filled with mounting foam, wait for it to dry and carefully cut off the excess that has come out.
	After that, the drywall is fixed on the other side of the partition. The installation principle does not change. Drywall on the doorway is fixed and cut out in the same way as in the previous case.
	The final stage before priming and puttying the entire surface is sealing the joints between the sheets and the holes from the self-tapping screws.

It is very important to carry out qualitatively, as they will determine the smoothness of the surface of the plasterboard wall, and the appearance of the decorative finish will depend on this.

Video: a master class on the construction of a lightweight plasterboard frame partition

Working with drywall is a creative process, and if you really feel like doing it yourself, then you can safely get down to business. Having prepared all the tools and materials, as well as having studied the installation instructions, even that industrious owner of an apartment or house who has not previously come across the construction business will be able to carry out this event.