How to insulate the floor in a wooden house from below on stilts - how to properly insulate the floor from below and above with your own hands using penoplex and other materials, how to insulate with expanded clay in a cottage on screw piles - Thermal insulation of structures. How to insulate the floor in a house using a screw

Insulation of floors along joists in a wooden house.

The construction of a pile foundation using screw elements allows the construction of houses in swamps, coastal zones and hilly areas. When choosing SIP technology, the floors of the lower level are reliably thermally insulated by default.

In “frameworks”, log houses, panel and half-timbered buildings, the floor-on-joists technology is used. Therefore, in wooden frame house it is necessary to additionally insulate the floor for comfortable stay and reducing the operating budget for heating.

Domestic SNiPs exist exclusively for the calculation of pile foundations. Regulatory documents there is no provision for insulating the basement of a building. Ventilation and insulation of these architectural elements are carried out in accordance with the requirements of SNiP dated 2003, number 31.01 for residential buildings (now replaced by SP 54.13330.2011).

The manufacturer of extruded polystyrene foam Penoplex has technical solutions for heated floors using joists. Taking into account the requirements given in these documents, the individual developer must ensure:

  • laying insulation between the joists - sheets of expanded polystyrene or basalt wool rest on the subfloor, are waterproofed from below and covered with a vapor barrier from above;
  • pick-up for piles - imitation of a plinth made of facing material on the frame;
  • ventilation ducts - the area of ​​each hole is from 0.05 m2 (most often the pipe is 100 mm), the total area is 1/400 of the perimeter of the basement walls;
  • blind area around the perimeter - for drainage of storm and melt runoff.

Attention: Treatment with a regular antiseptic wooden structures, resting on stilts are not enough. These compositions wear off after 6–7 years of use, recoating in an underground with a height of 0.5 - 0.7 m is physically impossible without opening the floors. Therefore, it is necessary to use deep penetrating mixtures.

The best option in in this case is the composition Maxiwood or similar compositions:

  • colorless transparent liquid without harmful secretions;
  • has the density of water, allowing you to treat logs with a spray gun;
  • increases moisture resistance by 20%, penetrates the wood structure by 1 cm, creating crystalline structures inside it.

It is better to treat joists, beams, and subfloor boards with waterproofing materials at initial stage construction of a dwelling. This will eliminate the need to open the base at the finishing stage to install the heat insulator. The technology for heated floors on beams is as follows:

  • sheathing arrangement - bars are attached to the bottom of the beams, joists from the inside along the load-bearing elements of the floor;
  • installation of the sub-base - OSB, chipboard, multi-layer plywood or edged boards are laid between the beams on previously nailed bars (the lower part is impregnated with a penetrating mixture);
  • waterproofing - waterproofing is laid on top of the base;
  • thermal insulation - laid on top of waterproofing basalt wool or extruded polystyrene foam (PSB-S or XPS) in three to four layers in a checkerboard pattern;
  • vapor barrier – the top of the insulation is protected by a vapor barrier.

The further scheme for insulating a house on screw piles may differ depending on the type of flooring included in the room design:

  • multilayer plywood - for laying laminate, parquet, floorboards, piece or modular parquet, cork, carpet and linoleum;
  • dry screed – for decorating with porcelain stoneware, linoleum, tiles, cork, PVC tiles and laminate;
  • self-leveling screed - most often for underfloor heating systems.

Floor insulation scheme

For a building on screw piles, the following floor thermal insulation scheme along the joists is used:

Scheme of floor insulation along joists in a wooden house.

  • cranial block - fixed with self-tapping screws, nails flush with the lower edge of the beam;
  • subfloor - filling the space between the joists edged board, plywood, OSB board, chipboard;
  • waterproofing – roll of glassine, roofing felt, PVC film, special waterproofing membranes;
  • insulation – XPS or PSB-S expanded polystyrene blocks, basalt wool;
  • vapor barrier - a membrane or film that cuts off excessively humid air from the room into the heat-insulating layer;
  • sound insulation – ready-made solutions from manufacturers ZIPS, Knauf or an additional layer of mineral wool on counter-battens with cladding GVL sheets, plywood.

This technology is relevant in frame, log, panel house. It provides insulation of the lower floor and allows the use of any floor coverings.

However, insulating the floor for a building on screw piles is not enough for normal operation. An excessively ventilated underground will lead to additional heat loss through the lower floor along the joists. The efficiency of underfloor heating will decrease and energy consumption in heating systems will increase. Climbing up piles using one of the methods below will get rid of these troubles.

Picking up a screw foundation

When supporting a building on piles, in this case screw ones, there is no structural element– base. In some cases, the underground level is decorated with a fence - an imitation of a plinth that does not bear the load from the building's load-bearing frame. The structure must be supplemented with a blind area along the cut-off waterproofing.

Main mistakes when designing a fence

Most individual developers believe that if the false base is insulated, the temperature in the underground will increase. This is fundamentally wrong - the heat insulator only retains heat, and does not produce it independently. In the absence of a heating source between the floor/ground, a layer of insulation is a waste of money.

Important: With any method of decorating the underground, it is necessary to leave ventilation ducts. In the absence of a building's ring drainage, the soil under the base of the cottage releases a lot of moisture. Which must be diverted by a natural ventilation system. The joists and subfloor must be treated with an antiseptic and waterproofing impregnation.

Depending on the tasks being solved, the base on screw piles can be decorated and protected from blowing. There are several technical solutions:

  • the fence is completely absent - the cottage is on a hill, the height difference under the base of the house exceeds 1.5 m, large-format triangles in the basement will spoil the appearance;
  • insulated frame system - the underground is planned to be used for storage, so heaters are installed in it;
  • cladding without insulation - the height of the underground is insignificant, the false base will be an excellent addition to the facade exteriors, a heat insulator is not needed here.

In the lower part of the cladding, the fence is in contact with the ground, inside of which heaving forces may be present in winter. Therefore, it is better to replace the fertile layer (0.4 - 0.6 m) with sand, in which these forces cannot occur. To do this, it is enough to dig a trench the width of a bayonet and fill it with non-metallic material.

Cladding with sheet materials

Technologies of wooden architecture include log houses made of logs, beams, cylinders, panel houses, panel houses, “framework” and half-timbered structures. Only log houses and half-timbers do not require façade cladding; external walls of all other types are decorated with siding, clapboard, block house, and panels.

For most of these options it is preferable stone imitation basement level in the house.

The manufacturing technology is as follows:

  • installation of the frame - two screw piles are attached to the pipes horizontal belts, the thickness of the timber levels the plane of the cladding, taking into account all layers;
  • fastening the base – the best option is flat slate or DSP;
  • waterproofing - done roll material, which passes under the blind area slab, bends onto DSP sheet to the very top;
  • cladding - the resulting base is covered with rubble stone, clinker, porcelain stoneware;
  • blind area - standard paving slabs, paving stones, rubber modules, concrete over cut-off waterproofing.

Scheme of picking up screw piles with sheet material.

The technology is cheaper than natural masonry, but more expensive than a frame system (analogous to a ventilated façade).

Brick, rubble masonry

The most expensive option for building a house on screw piles is traditional masonry. The technology is an imitation of the plinth, since the grillage wooden cottage in this case, it does not receive support from the masonry. To save materials, the tape is made in half a brick; it cannot be insulated. The first row is laid on compacted sand cushion, which replaces the fertile layer. Waterproofing takes the form of a roofing felt tape laid both under the masonry and under the blind area.

Frame fence

When choosing a foundation on screw piles, they are usually guided by budgetary considerations. The most economical option to imitate a base is traditionally frame technology. This is an analogue of a ventilated facade, in which the lathing made of timber or galvanized profile is attached not to the walls, but to the body of the piles. The technology looks like:

  • frame along pile pipes - two horizontal belts around the perimeter;
  • waterproofing - roofing material vertically fixed to the sheathing, bent horizontally at the ground over the entire width of the blind area;
  • basement siding - PVC sheets with imitation stone and brickwork are fixed with clamps, self-tapping screws metal profile or nails to a wooden beam;
  • blind area - any material used to decorate sidewalks.

Trays and stormwater inlets can be immediately built into the blind area, draining the runoff into an underground reservoir.

The removal will allow you to reduce the thickness of the heat insulation in the floors and increase the operating comfort of the premises in the house. No insulation is used in the false base pie; communication pipes are wrapped with heat insulation in the underground, to the freezing depth in the ground underneath.

Thus, following the advice given by experts, you can insulate the floors along the joists, protect the underground from blowing, while maintaining the natural ventilation of the lower space.

In houses with screw piles, special requirements are placed on flooring technology due to design features buildings. In frame houses, the floor must be part of the load-bearing structure. Floors in a frame house on stilts are more exposed to climatic influences, therefore the requirements for materials, flooring technology and insulation methods are fundamentally different than in buildings with standard types foundation. This material is about how to properly lay flooring on stilts so as not to violate the key parameters of the building and achieve comfortable conditions residence for many years.

On screw piles

In most precedents, building is a forced necessity rather than an image or aesthetic decision. Houses of this type are built in places where the soil has low density or high level groundwater. Also, similar buildings are found in coastal areas, where in the spring there is a threat of flooding of homes.

Building on the slope of a ravine.

For construction you need to screw it in over the entire area of ​​the future frame house piles. The number of piles and their depth are individually prescribed in the design documentation. Top part The pile foundation is combined using a bottom frame made of timber 150 by 150 mm, or 200 by 200 mm. The beam of the bottom frame of the frame house evenly distributes the load on the piles. Thus, laying the floors of a frame house is carried out directly on the timber.

Advantages of a pile foundation

Such a technological solution has a number of advantages:

  • minimum draft level;
  • Possibility of use on any type of soil;
  • quick installation of the foundation;
  • absence large quantities earthworks;
  • high level of structural stability;
  • slight susceptibility to aggressive environmental factors.

An important point is that with the help of a foundation on screw piles, it is possible to build frame houses in areas with a significant difference in height: on cliffs, slopes of lowlands or ravines, artificial embankments.

On a note

TO weaknesses described technological solution can be attributed to the inability to equip basement and difficulty insulating the floor in a frame house on stilts.

Floor in a building on screw piles

Before covering the horizontal ceiling of the first floor, you need to wisely choose the type of wood in order to minimize heat loss, since the floor in a frame house on screw piles is not protected from the external environment like the floor in an ordinary house. Therefore, types of wood are required that will ensure the tightest fit of the floorboards to each other.

In order to lay the floor of a frame house on screw piles, it is recommended to use conifers, which combine high strength, durability and reasonable price. For wealthy homeowners, it would be preferable to choose oak or aspen, which are many times superior coniferous varieties according to many characteristics.


Insulation of the ground floor floor.

The right floor in a frame house will allow you to use any type of floor covering of natural origin, be it parquet, parquet boards or treated boards made of solid wood. You also need to keep in mind that you will have to use ceramics as a floor covering in order to tile the bathroom. The wood must be able to withstand the effects of moisture-repellent impregnations well.

Ground floor floor

Horizontal floors of the first floor are most susceptible to heat loss, so in this case it is necessary to lay insulation between the main floor surface and the floor covering. Thus, the thickness of the floor of a frame house on the first floor will be significantly greater than on the second. Additionally, it is necessary to nail sheets of plywood or isoplat sheets to the joists from the outside.

Counter rails on which it rests flooring, should be located directly on top of the joists above the insulation. The floor of the first floor in a frame house requires additional protection from moisture accumulation and evaporation. You need to think about waterproofing at the initial stage of laying the floor, even before installing the floor covering.

Layers of insulating material must overlap. The width of the overlap must be at least ten centimeters. The installation of floors in a frame house on stilts resembles a kind of pie, the “filling” of which is a subfloor, wind protection, layers of thermal insulation, vapor barrier, and flooring.

Requirements for the second floor floor

What kind of flooring in frame houses is used on the second floor? The main requirement for the floors of the second floor is that they must bear a minimum load on the building, since it is not recommended to build frame houses more than two floors high. The ceilings of the second floor do not give off heat and are less demanding on the type of flooring. The main requirement for floors of this type is lightness of construction and good sound insulation.


Sectional view of the second floor floor.

On the upper floors of a frame house it is unacceptable to use a thick layer insulating materials. For less load on the floor, you can do large quantity premises on the ground floor. Spacers and partitions will become part of the power structure of the house, thereby relieving the floor of the second floor of the frame house.

Floor insulation

It is necessary to pay close attention to the types of insulation, since wooden floors in a frame house not only actively give off heat to external environment in the absence of insulation, but they can also be destroyed if the material of the insulating layer is selected incorrectly.

Main types of insulation

  • Mineral wool– this type of insulation has excellent insulating parameters. Besides mineral wool does not burn, does not decompose, and does not accumulate toxic substances during operation. However, mineral wool loses its insulating properties if it comes into contact with water, so the construction of the floor of a frame house should be done with minimal use of liquids. In this case it is prohibited to process floorboard water-based enamel.
  • Frame house with water floors– this insulation option requires significant technological competencies from builders. It is necessary to lay coolant supply lines between the floor and the floor covering. Circulating hot water will heat the coating to the desired temperature. In order for this system to work without failures, a boiler with an automatic control system and thermostats must be installed in the house. This type of insulation is recommended for houses where people live all year round;
  • Electric heated floor– in a frame house, thermal elements are installed between the floor and the floor covering, which the user can activate at will. In this case, the floor covering should not be flammable.

It implies variability, which is limited by the financial capabilities of the homeowner and the operating conditions of the home.

Floor installation work

Installation algorithm:

  1. Installation of lag.
  2. Joining bars between joists to strengthen the structure.
  3. Laying a subfloor made of boards or plywood.
  4. Flooring between the joists of the vapor barrier membrane.
  5. Laying insulation.
  6. The insulation must be covered with a vapor barrier film.
  7. Installation of floors in a frame house.

Installers must ensure the correct sequence of laying the floor pie and the tightness of the boards.

Insulation of the floor in a house on stilts must be carried out taking into account the design features of such a home. Only in this case there will be no problems with its operation.

Residential buildings installed on pile support elements do not have a basement or basement level. But they have an underground area, blown from all sides by winds. Such buildings are usually erected on marshy soils. In this regard, the space under them is always characterized by a fairly high level of humidity.

So that the house on screw piles can be used long time and was not adversely affected natural factors, his floor covering is arranged in several layers:

  1. Wooden supporting skeleton. It must be built with a subfloor.
  2. Wind protection (vapor permeable). It is necessary to protect the used heat-insulating material from weathering.
  3. Direct heat insulator.
  4. Moisture and vapor barrier layers.
  5. Finished floor covered with boards.

Floor covering of a house on screw piles

The floor foundation for a dwelling on screw piles is built this way. At the same time, the performance characteristics thermal insulation materials for such buildings should be as high as possible. It is also recommended to use high-quality vapor and waterproofing products that reliably protect rooms in a wooden house on stilts from moisture. If the owner of a structure on a pile foundation fails to comply high-quality insulation floor in his home, during the operation of the building he will face the following serious problems:

  • increase in heating costs due to a decrease (and significant) in the energy efficiency of the building;
  • the presence of condensation above the technical underground (directly on the surface of the floor base);
  • the appearance of fungus, mold, rotting wooden elements buildings caused by constant high humidity.

It is enough to properly insulate the floor in a house on a pile foundation once and forget about all these troubles forever.

In principle, thermal insulation of the floor of a pile structure is permitted different products. The main thing is that they are suitable for use in wet conditions. From the point of view of specialists, it is most rational to insulate floors in a house on stilts with the following materials:

  1. Styrofoam. It provides high-quality thermal protection. But you need to take into account the fact that at high humidity and low temperatures, foam can break down into separate small pieces. If you decide to use this material for thermal insulation, take care to effectively protect it from moisture.
  2. Minvata. It is not afraid of biological influences, is characterized by very good heat-protective properties, and is a non-flammable material. True, when moisture (even a small amount) penetrates into cotton wool, its unique protective properties are lost. Floor insulation can be carried out with any type of mineral wool - slag, glass or stone. This heat insulator is produced in slabs and rolls. It is advisable to use it in the form of slabs (it is characterized by higher density compared to rolled material).
  3. Penoplex is expanded polystyrene made by extrusion. It has low moisture absorption and increased strength. These characteristics distinguish it better from cheaper, but also less reliable foam.

Often, insulation of buildings on screw piles is carried out using expanded clay. It's easy to use, which is important for DIYers. repair work without the involvement of specialists, it is not subject to combustion and has a low cost. But in terms of heat-protective characteristics, expanded clay is inferior to all the previously mentioned materials.

Floor insulation with expanded clay

It is recommended to use modern vapor-permeable moisture-proofing membranes as wind and waterproof products for the floors of structures on pile foundations. They are quick and easy to install, but the price of such multifunctional products can be steep. Important! All elements wooden house on piles should be treated with compounds with special antiseptic properties.

And don't forget about vapor barrier. A simple polyethylene film is quite suitable as such. It is laid directly on a layer of thermal insulation material.

First you need to make a subfloor. Its device is simple - you nail a wooden beam, which is called a cranial beam, to the joists. It will serve as a support for the flooring boards. Be sure to treat all used elements with an antiseptic. Then lay the boards into the flooring. When using polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene, it is allowed to install a special mesh instead of the subfloor. It must be properly attached to the joists so that it can easily withstand the weight of the insulation used.

Subfloor in the house

In general, you must always remember that you cannot overload piles with excess weight. After arranging the subfloor, lay it on vapor barrier layer. All moisture from the atmosphere should remain outside, not falling on the heat-shielding material. This part of the vapor barrier can be made from polyethylene film or from roofing felt. Then you lay the insulation, and on top of it another layer of vapor barrier. It will protect the cake from condensation and internal moisture.

When installing heat and vapor barrier, do not leave gaps between separate elements materials used. This is fraught with the formation of cold bridges. They are very dangerous for insulation, as they quickly destroy it during operation. Now feel free to arrange the finished floor in your house using for these purposes particle boards, plywood sheets, floorboards and other products. Pro tip! Be sure to cover the piles with a warm, stationary base. Then snow will not get under the house. If there is no desire or opportunity to build a warm structure, cover the supporting elements with an inexpensive and quick-to-install decorative base.

When installing a house on pile foundation There is no base in the structure's design. As was said, it must be done. Often, instead of a full-fledged basement, it is erected decorative imitation- pick up. It perfectly protects the underground from snow drifts and wind. To perform this operation, you can use one of two methods:

  1. Rubble or brickwork. This kind of fence is built using half a brick. The first row of stones is laid on a bed of sand (it needs to be compacted very well). The fence is waterproofed using roofing felt.
  2. Frame imitation of the base. This technology allows you to build an analogue of a ventilated facade. It is very economical and quick to implement. The frame is erected by installing lathing from a galvanized profile or wooden beams straight onto the piles. Then this structure is sheathed with roofing felt, and PVC sheets are attached on top to look like brick or stone. PVC products should be fixed with nails (if the sheathing is made of wood) or (a metal profile).

Frame imitation plinth

Insulation makes it possible to reduce the consumption of insulation: it can be laid in a thinner layer. Let your home always be dry and warm!

Why don’t I use a wind-moisture-proof film in the lower floor of a frame house on stilts or on tape? This question comes up quite often. Let's talk about the bottom floor pie in general and the VVZ film/membrane in particular.

Bottom floor of a frame house in Nazia, no film underneath

First of all, let's touch on the issue of design. The above photo shows the triple strapping on which the floor joists rest. This is one of the options for tying screw piles, which has both its pros and cons. We have already discussed this issue in detail in a note, although that note is mostly devoted to heat loss. However, two design options are considered there (the above and the one I like better), so I see no point in repeating myself.

Protecting a frame house from mice

So, having chosen the strapping option, we come to the choice of the “pie” of the ceiling, that is, what should be laid there and in what order. And we always start with protection from small rodents that can live in the insulation if measures are not taken.

The main measure in our case is the use of a fine metal mesh over the entire floor area:

Rodent mesh, bottom frame frame on tape

In this photo you see the lower ceiling; it was built on a ready-made old tape. But this does not change the essence of the matter, if there were piles there and not a tape, first we would have made the strapping and stretched the mesh in the same way. Like this:




In the photos above there is a lower overlap, the mesh is sandwiched between bottom trim and a board lying flat on the heads. In the case of the option with a triple bottom frame and floor joists on top of it, the mesh is mounted on top of the frame. The point is that the mesh is located immediately under the insulation, in order not only to protect it from rodents, but also to support it - to prevent it from sagging or falling out.

This is what the finished harness and stretched mesh look like from above:

Aerial photography of the construction site in Kiskelovo, lower ceiling and rodent mesh

We usually use woven galvanized metal mesh 0.7mm with a mesh size of 5*5mm, rolls 1*30m, but this size is not important, the main thing is that the mesh is small so that no mouse can get through.

Insulation of floors with stone wool

Insulation of the floor with stone wool, view from the side of the future terrace

There is nothing unusual in the insulation process itself; the insulation boards are laid spaced between the joists, and are supported from below metal grid. You can also additionally use punched paper tape, there is practically no load there, it simply does not allow the insulation to sag:

Basalt wool is supported by meth. mesh, you can add punched tape

And now we come to the most interesting...

Why is there no wind and moisture protection in the lower ceiling?

Yes, yes, the VVZ film/membrane is not visible in the photographs. It's not visible because it's not there. But no, because it’s not needed.

Most often they write to me about this: “But what about moisture from the ground?”, “After all, the insulation will get wet!” and so on. But the trick is that stone wool can only get wet if there is direct contact with moisture in the form of drops or streams, which certainly won’t happen in the underground. But it simply doesn’t pick up moisture from the air.

So, only the issue of air permeability remains relevant, i.e. wind protection. Therefore, as the first layer I usually use a thicker one. stone wool eg Paroc WAS 35.

The manufacturer confirms that there is no need to use wind protection (note that protection from moisture is not even mentioned) in the case of using these boards with limited air permeability:

The letter talks about ventilated facades, but this does not change the essence of the matter at all, because these windproof slabs work the same way, whether in the wall or in the ceiling.

Of course, this is not the only way to perform the “lower part of the lower floor”; as an option, it is also possible to use Isoplaat MDVP windproof boards, although they are more difficult to install. But I would not use wind-moisture-proof films or membranes. The fact is that such membranes are not capable of passing water in the liquid phase, which is extremely undesirable for covering, because water, with a high degree of probability, can get there sooner or later. For example, emergency leaks of communications; unfortunately, no one is immune from them.

What is most often used to hem the floor from below: counting money

Probably the most common option for lining the bottom floor that I have seen on other people’s construction sites is inch or OSB + VVZ film. The use of such materials is argued in different ways, from the fact that “we have always done it this way”, ending with the fact that it is cheaper than “newfangled windproof boards or insulation.”

It is important to understand that there must be material underneath your home

  • with good vapor permeability;
  • with sufficient wind protection;
  • capable of leaking liquid in case of leakage.

Neither OSB nor films/membranes fall under these criteria in any way, so I would refrain from using them.

As for the cost, the use of windproof insulation turns out to be cheaper than film + boards. Although the windproof insulation itself is three times more expensive than usual! Because of this price difference, there is a common misconception that the whole pie is also three times more expensive, but this is not true. Firstly, you need to use only 50mm of such insulation (the first layer), and secondly, let’s do the math.

There was already an argument about this once, but here are some brief calculations that were relevant at the time of the argument:

Paroc Extra usual ~ 1600 rubles per 1m3, in our case it turns out 80 rubles per 1m2 of 50mm slabs.

Paroc WAS 35 costs much more: ~ 4500 rubles per 1 m3, i.e. in our case, 225 rubles per 1m2 of 50mm slab.

The difference in the cost of two insulation materials 145 rubles with 1m2. Now let's consider the filing as board and film:

Dry inch gauge ~ 8000 rubles per 1 m3, i.e. 200 rubles per 1m2, film type Izospan A - 25 rubles per 1m2.

Those. we see that in my version you will have to pay an additional 150 rubles for 1m2 of insulation, but you will not have to pay an additional 225+ rubles per m2 of board and film lining, so the myth “it is unreasonably more expensive” was not confirmed, it turned out the other way around.

There remains only one controversial point: these calculations do not take into account the metal mesh, which is often not installed when hemming with an inch. But the mesh protects the house from rodents and, in an amicable way, is needed in any implementation option.

What's on top?

We figured out the design, insulation and lining (or rather, the lack thereof). It remains to be discussed what the ceiling has on top. So, after completing the installation of insulation, it is necessary to make a vapor barrier, for which we use polyethylene film:

Bottom floor and vapor barrier

In the framework of this note, I would not like to go into details, I will only say that 150 micron film is prescribed in SP 31-105. Polyethylene is the basis of many “branded” PI films, therefore we use it for vapor barrier of walls and ceilings. The film is laid with an overlap, the joints are taped. And plywood is laid on top, this is how it happens:

By the way, the video shows the beginning of construction. The video is of mediocre quality, but there was nothing better and fresher. I'll have to make a new video on this topic.

Moisture-resistant plywood for subfloors

Having made the subfloor from moisture-resistant plywood, you can begin assembling the walls - the floor of the first floor is ready!

The construction of buildings for any purpose is impossible without fundamental structural elements. A number of such components primarily include the foundation and floor, which are the basis of the entire house.

Peculiarities

Device frame structure also includes a range of floor installation works. A properly designed foundation, made using high-quality building materials, will help eliminate heat loss and escape through the floors in the future, and as a result will maintain a comfortable temperature for homeowners.

Based on the features of construction technology frame houses, the foundation of buildings can be of the following types:

  • a structure built on screw piles - this option is ideal for soft soil where construction is planned;
  • concrete pillars, the installation of which should be carried out in harder soil;
  • strip foundation;
  • structure created from monolithic reinforced slab made of concrete, which is laid on a durable sand bed.

The selection and construction of one type of foundation for a frame house is the first step in the construction of such a building. Experts recommend carefully selecting wood to create the frame of a house, taking into account climatic conditions, as well as a number of others important points, since such houses are a capital structure that can be fully exploited for a long time.

Most often, for work on installing floors in a frame house, preference is given to coniferous wood due to the fact that the raw materials have high durability and low cost. Logs made from aspen or oak are expensive products due to their higher quality characteristics.

To work with the subfloor, it is necessary to purchase well-dried raw materials, since humidity helps to reduce the size of the products, which leads to the appearance of gaps between the laid products.

The foundation in a frame house is made by installing a rough and finished floor. You can make a subfloor using OSB boards, which are fixed to the lower parts of the frame and joists. After that, the remaining materials responsible for creating the floor in the frame house are laid on the created surface. It is this technology that is used to create a structural foundation pie.

The subfloor is laid according to the following principle:

  • On top of the building's foundation, logs are laid, pre-treated with an antiseptic. It is worth choosing raw materials that are more moisture-resistant, for example, larch, since it is least susceptible to rotting;
  • The section of the board is selected based on the distance between the walls. If it is quite large, then it is worth increasing the cross-section of the products or making additional support from concrete or brick pedestals;

  • the main task is to achieve such a solid foundation that wooden joists did not sag under loads when people moved along them or under the weight of installed furniture;
  • the frequency of steps when laying wood should be determined based on the dimensions of the laid OSB boards;
  • on bottom part the log is nailed to a beam on which the edged board is laid;
  • all sections of the subfloor must contain waterproofing in the form of a film;
  • in addition, the gaps between the joists are filled with insulation, which is covered with vapor barrier material and moisture-resistant plywood.

Installation is carried out on top of the subfloor finishing base. It represents finishing coat, which can be in the form of parquet or parquet board, ceramic tiles or laminate.

Kinds

The floor in a frame house can be arranged in several ways. The choice in favor of one option or another will be based on the frequency of residence in it. So, in a country house the issue of creating a floor base is approached somewhat more simply, but in buildings frame type which are being built for permanent residence, most often need to be done additional insulation, which consists of installing a heated floor system. Taking into account the configuration and type of existing foundation, as well as financial opportunities, several types of flooring can be distinguished.

Monolithic floor

This base is made on a concrete screed. The design has the following positive qualities:

  • long service life;
  • the foundation is ready for installation of a heated floor system.

Concrete screed performed after a series preparatory activities, such as:

  • soil leveling work;
  • creating a sand cushion;
  • laying a layer of crushed stone on a sand cushion.

Fill the screed in such a way that there are no voids left on the resulting surface. As a rule, it takes about 3 weeks for the black base to completely harden.

After work on creating the screed, the cut of the pie can be represented as follows:

  • a cushion of sand and a layer of crushed stone;
  • screed with waterproofing and insulation;
  • vapor barrier material;
  • heated floor design;
  • finishing screed and flooring.

Frame floor

This structure is erected on columnar, pile and strip foundation. Its features lie in the creation of a structure of load-bearing and intermediate beams and joists. Work on arranging a frame type floor begins with preparatory work related to the installation of beds. They are boards that are laid on the foundation with waterproofing material. In addition, anchor bolts are attached to the products.

The method of laying the beds makes it possible to obtain a hard and robust construction. In the beds, additional cuts are made for the joists. The cross-section of products for each room and floor may be different. Experts recommend using beams with a cross-section of 100x250 mm for the first floor, 70x200 mm for the second floor, and for bathrooms and showers you should purchase material with a cross-section of 50x150 mm. Boards are attached to the joists, on which the subfloor is subsequently installed.

The cross-section of the floor pie on stilts looks like this:

  • OSB boards 6 mm thick;
  • waterproofing and sound insulation;
  • insulation;
  • OSB shield;
  • extruded polystyrene foam.

For country houses frame pie the floor consists of the above components, including such additional elements as:

  • foamed foam backing;
  • gypsum fiber sheets;
  • any finishing coating.

For the bathroom and kitchen, as well as any other rooms where the humidity level in the room is high and heating is required winter period, the pie will look like this:

  • vapor barrier material;
  • reinforcing mesh;
  • heated floor contours;
  • waterproofing;
  • screed;
  • a layer of foil polystyrene foam;
  • finishing base.

In buildings where it is planned permanent residence, the installation of a heated floor is mandatory. In this case, the floor design will be as follows:

  • aluminum plates;
  • underfloor heating system;
  • foam substrate and gypsum fiber board;
  • any type of finishing base.

Installation

You can install a frame floor on your own only if you have everything at hand. necessary tools, and there is also a clear understanding of the recommended standards and rules for performing work. The flooring is made from materials that are selected based on the individual preferences of the owner of the building.

Opting for decorative coating made of tongue and groove boards, you should take into account the technology of its installation, which includes the following steps:

  • the material is laid across the floor joists;
  • products are fixed using nails;
  • upon completion of installation, the floor is scraped;
  • The final stage of work is coating the boards with varnish.

Important: in addition to boards, quite often they prefer to make flooring from plywood.

The sheet installation technology is carried out according to the following scheme:

  • Marking and arrangement of products is carried out taking into account that the joints of materials will be on the logs;
  • logs are processed adhesive composition, lay the plywood, attaching the sheets using self-tapping screws or nails. Treatment with glue will eliminate the formation of squeaks during operation of the house;
  • a small ventilation gap should be left so that when the humidity level increases, the base does not deform;
  • where various communications and pipes pass, you need to make special holes in the plywood sheets;
  • The edges of the material are aligned along the binding board, and the products are marked and trimmed.

Upon completion of the work on arranging the floor in the frame house, they begin work on creating the frame of the walls and roof, followed by cladding the house.

To install the floor on the second floor of a frame building, you should follow the recommendations for performing the work, which are somewhat different from the technology for creating the floor on the first floor.

It should be noted that the main task of the floors on the second floor will be to create high-quality sound insulation. Therefore, instead of the usual insulation in interfloor covering It is necessary to use a soundproofing layer. The most suitable raw material for such work will be sand, which meets the necessary characteristics and, in addition, is an excellent heat accumulator. A high level of floor rigidity is also important.

To ensure such qualities, the base, in addition to beams, should be strengthened with lags, which will add strength to the structure.

The technology for installing the floor on the second floor involves performing the following work:

  • installation of the rough foundation to the interfloor beams;
  • laying waterproofing and vapor barrier;
  • Insulation and raw materials providing sound insulation are installed in the gaps between the beams. In some cases, expanded clay is used instead of sand;
  • floor joists are installed on the beams;

  • the distance between the logs is carefully filled with raw materials for insulation. For such purposes, mineral wool or any other material is usually used. construction material, having high non-flammability indicators;
  • placed on top of the insulation waterproofing film, which will prevent the formation of moisture leakage to the first floor in the event of unforeseen situations, for example, the formation of a leak in the roof;
  • the pie is sewn up with a board, plywood or other material suitable for further work for laying the final floor covering.
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