What do you need to install an air conditioner? How to install the air conditioner yourself - step by step instructions. Tools and preparations

Air conditioning should be selected and installed in advance, without waiting for the summer heat. So you can save a significant amount, especially if you complete it. In order for the equipment to work without failures, do-it-yourself installation of the air conditioner must be carried out strictly according to the instructions, in a suitable place for this. Mismatch of technical conditions or incorrect selection of parts will lead to a quick breakdown of the split system.

To properly install everything, you should have an idea about the device and the principle of operation of the air conditioner. It consists of a compressor and an evaporator unit connected by pipes. The compressor is mounted on the outside of the wall, and the evaporator is installed indoors. Expensive models have not one indoor unit, but several that are connected to one compressor.

The refrigerant is supplied under high pressure through the nozzle into the evaporator block. It enters the evaporator chamber, expands there, boils, and its vapors begin to intensively absorb heat. During this process, water condensate is released and settles on the radiator of the evaporative unit. From there, the moisture is sent to the tank and is discharged through the tube outside the building.

All this time, the compressor pumps out the refrigerant vapor from the chamber, increasing the pressure behind the pump. As a result, the refrigerant heats up and turns from a liquid into a high-density mist. In this state, the refrigerant enters the condensate chamber equipped with a radiator, is cooled by a fan and turns into a liquid again. In this form, it is again fed under pressure into the evaporator nozzle and the working process is repeated.

The efficiency of the equipment and the energy consumption directly depend on the operating conditions. If a heater is located near the air conditioner, the compressor consumes and fails more often. Ordinary dust that has got inside the system can also cause a breakdown, and therefore wet cleaning should be carried out regularly and very carefully. You can not put various objects on the surface of the block, as well as cover it with something.

To prevent the evaporation of the refrigerant, all joints and connections should be carefully sealed during installation. The outdoor unit should be placed lower than the indoor unit and in the coolest place possible. It is good if the unit is constantly in the shade from the overhang of the roof or walls. Compliance with these conditions will ensure uninterrupted operation of the air conditioner and a comfortable indoor climate.

Air conditioner detail	Description
1. Fan	creates a stream of air blowing around the condenser
2. Capacitor	a radiator in which freon is cooled and condensed. The air blown through the condenser is heated accordingly
3. Compressor	compresses freon and keeps it moving along the refrigeration circuit. The compressor can be piston or scroll (scroll) type. Reciprocating compressors are cheaper but less reliable than scroll compressors, especially in low outdoor temperatures.
4. Control board	installed only on inverter air conditioners. In non-inverter models, they try to place all electronics in the indoor unit, since large fluctuations in temperature and humidity reduce the reliability of electronic components
5. Four way valve	installed in reversible (heat - cold) air conditioners. In heating mode, this valve changes the direction of freon movement. In this case, the indoor and outdoor units seem to change places: the indoor unit works for heating, and the outdoor unit works for cooling
6. Unions	copper pipes connecting the outdoor and indoor units are connected to them
7. Freon system filter	is installed in front of the compressor inlet and protects it from copper chips and other small particles that may enter the system during the installation of the air conditioner. Of course, if the installation was performed in violation of the technology and a large amount of debris got into the system, then the filter will not help.
8. Protective quick-release cover	closes the fittings and the terminal block used to connect electrical cables. In some models, the protective cover covers only the terminal block, and the union connections remain outside

	Description
1. Front panel	It is a plastic grill through which air enters the unit. The panel can be easily removed for maintenance of the air conditioner (cleaning filters, etc.)
2. Coarse filter	is a plastic mesh and is designed to trap coarse dust, animal hair, etc. For normal operation of the air conditioner, the filter must be cleaned at least twice a month
3. Fine filter	can be of various types: coal (removes unpleasant odors), electrostatic (retains fine dust), etc. The presence or absence of fine filters has no effect on the operation of the air conditioner
4. Fan	has 3 - 4 rotation speeds
5. Evaporator	a radiator in which cold freon is heated and evaporated. The air blown through the radiator is cooled accordingly
6. Horizontal blinds	Adjust the direction of the air flow vertically. These blinds are electrically operated and their position can be adjusted from the remote control. In addition, the blinds can automatically make oscillatory movements to evenly distribute the air flow throughout the room.
7. Display panel	indicators (LEDs) are installed on the front panel of the air conditioner, showing the operating mode of the air conditioner and signaling possible malfunctions
8. Vertical blinds	are used to adjust the direction of the airflow horizontally. In domestic air conditioners, the position of these shutters can only be adjusted manually. The ability to control from the remote control is only in some models of premium air conditioners
Condensate tray	located under the evaporator and serves to collect condensate (water that forms on the surface of a cold evaporator). Water is drained from the sump through a drain hose.
Control board	usually located on the right side of the indoor unit. This board contains an electronics unit with a central microprocessor
Union connections	located at the bottom rear of the indoor unit. Copper pipes connecting the outdoor and indoor units are connected to them.

Air conditioner installation tools

If you are going to install the air conditioner yourself, you need to prepare in advance all the tools that you may need:

In addition, you will need a whole bay of copper tube with factory-rolled ends. Scratches, dents and similar defects are not allowed.

It is best to install the air conditioner during a major overhaul, since you will have to break through the wall and damage the finish.

Video - The principle of operation of the air conditioner

Prices for accessories for air conditioners

Accessories for air conditioners

Air conditioner installation instructions

If the tools are purchased, the air conditioner is delivered and unpacked, you can get to work. The outdoor unit is installed first, and then the system is mounted indoors. During the installation process, one should not forget about safety, especially if the work is carried out at the level of the second floor and above.

Outdoor unit fixing

When installing an air conditioner in a private house, there are no particular difficulties in placing the outdoor unit, but the place must be chosen very carefully. The block housing should not block the view of neighbors, and condensate should not flow down the wall of the house. At the same time, the air conditioner should be mounted within reach from the balcony, since such equipment needs periodic maintenance.

It is best if the block is fixed to the east or north side of the window or balcony, and preferably in its lower part. So he will not interfere with anyone, and you can easily reach him through an open window. Using a level, mark the places where the brackets are attached and drill holes in the wall for anchor bolts. For laying inter-unit communications, a through hole with a diameter of 80 mm is drilled. In a brick wall, it is recommended to drill along the seam between the bricks - it will take less time and the hole will turn out neater.

Brackets are installed according to the markup, align and securely tighten the bolts. The outdoor unit itself is fixed so that at least 10 cm remains between the radiator and the wall surface. The connection is made a little later, at the same time the resulting gaps are closed. If the unit is securely mounted on a vertical surface, you can proceed to the next step.

The indoor unit must not be mounted behind curtains, above a battery, or in rooms with sources of electrical interference that can cause damage to the block processor. After choosing a place, be sure to check the wall for the absence of already laid communications - electrical wiring, water or heating pipes.

If the site is free, fix the mounting plate: step back from the ceiling 10 cm, from the corner of the wall 5 cm and mark a horizontal line with a pencil. Drill holes for the fasteners and screw the plate securely. The indoor unit of the air conditioner is mounted on the plate, after which a hole is drilled in the side wall for a communication connection - electrical wiring, pipes, hoses for condensate drainage.

Wiring connection

For a block indoors, they lay their own, the minimum cross section of which is 1.5 square meters. mm. Be sure to install an automatic shutdown. When the wiring is laid, it is connected to the input shield: a yellow wire with a green stripe is connected to the neutral wire. To determine the zero and phase, use the indicator.

After that, the terminals of both blocks are connected with insulated stranded wires, passing them through a hole in the wall. The names of the terminals must necessarily match the wires, everything is clearly written in the instructions attached to the air conditioner.

Copper pipes must be cut, leaving a margin for bends of about a meter. When bending tubes, special tools are used to avoid wrinkles, dents and cracking of the metal. Thermal insulation is put on the prepared tubes - polyurethane foam hoses. Foam rubber is not suitable as a sealant, as it has a short service life.

Threaded flanges are put on insulated pipes, while the thread should be located at the end of the tube. The next step is flaring the tubes. Flaring must be done very carefully so that cracks and grooves do not form on the tubes. The nut should be easily put on the flare, and it is better to tighten it with a torque wrench - this will prevent the flared connections from being squeezed out of the nut.

Pipelines are alternately attached to the corresponding fittings, which are difficult to confuse due to different diameters. The flanges are screwed on the fittings so that the connection is tight, but not pinched, otherwise there is a risk of damaging the tube. In conclusion, a piece of plastic tube with a reinforced body is connected to the drain pipe. Fastening is carried out with a piece of heat-shrinkable tubing or a threaded flange, if it is included in the kit. The drain pipe should be taken away from the bearing wall as far as possible.

Now the pipes are led into the hole, leveled, from the outside they are fixed tightly to the wall with clamps. The wiring cable is fixed nearby, the pipeline is connected to the outdoor unit. The hole is blown out with mounting foam or filled with silicone. All external connections are checked with a bicycle pump and a soapy solution for leaks. If air is leaking somewhere, the thread is tightened more tightly. After checking, the soap coating is wiped from the thread with a clean cloth.

Vacuum system

Vacuuming the system makes it possible to remove the smallest particles of dust and moisture. This process is carried out after sealing the threaded connections, otherwise it will not be possible to completely pump out the air. To do this, a vacuum pump is connected to the system and air is pumped out for an hour.

Filling and testing the air conditioner

The refrigerant from the cylinder must be pumped into the system. An adapter and a pressure gauge are connected to the cylinder, and then, strictly monitoring the pressure, the reservoir is filled. When the process is completed, the automatic disconnector is turned on on the air conditioner, after which the system automatically enters the test mode. If everything works smoothly and the circulation of cold air becomes uniform, you can close the hole in the wall, clean up the consequences of installation and enjoy the coolness.

Find out how it is done, and also check out the step-by-step guide from our new article.

Prices for the range of air conditioners

Air conditioners

Video - Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation

Air conditioner installation guide:
1. Attach the hanging plate of the indoor unit.
you need: a level, a tape measure, a pencil, a small puncher / drill, a drill, self-tapping screws, chopsticks, a stepladder, a screwdriver, possibly a hammer, a vacuum cleaner, a device for finding hidden wiring.
If something is missing, garbage is a question, do not rush to buy, because you don’t need it except this time. You can hang it on the eye, bullshit the question is that it's a little crooked, but you can always proudly say, hand-mei, I hung it myself.
There is no stepladder, bullshit question, chair on chair taxis Foreva. It is desirable that the area of the seat of the lower chair be slightly less than the spread of the legs of the upper chair. This will bring special, spicy notes, and the neighbors will be able to replenish their vocabulary with catchphrases.
If there is no drill, bullshit question, the walls are usually well picked with a nail.
No screwdriver, bullshit question, there is a hammer.
No hammer, bullshit question, something heavy to find nifiga is not a problem.
If there is nothing to fasten, bullshit is a question, nails, adhesive tape, cold welding, glue, for greater reliability, it is better to combine several methods of fastening.
So, the plate is fixed securely.
-
2. Make a hole in the wall, and not just a hole, but a normal hole so that the rolling pin crawls through with a whistle + a slight downward slope.
you need: a large hammer drill, a long drill, a stepladder, masking tape, an industrial vacuum cleaner, a device for finding hidden wiring.
Stepladder, see problem 1, the neighbors will become polyglots.
A device for searching for hidden wiring, garbage is a question, an additional charge of vivacity will not be superfluous.
Perforator, drill, bullshit question, of course, a nail will not work or it was necessary to start in the winter, but a hefty chisel + hammer rules the future. A couple of days of work and a meeting with fresh air.
Molar tape, cellophane, industrial vacuum cleaner, bullshit question. As a child, they played war games, well, the same thing + a smoke screen and you are invisible to the enemy.
And of course, all your household members will get great, incomparable pleasure doing such a little cleaning after the "war".
Well, the hole is ready, the garbage is huge and crooked, but it will be convenient to lay the tracks.
-
3. We look at the hole, at the indoor unit at the estimated distance to the outdoor unit and understand that the drain pipes are short, um, the task.
you need: flaring, gas burner (for proper installation), pipe cutter, drainage tube, flex (insulation is shorter)
Well, we’re not suckers what kind of thread, it’s clear that we bought a couple of meters of a copper seamless tube of different diameters in advance, or maybe not copper, or maybe not seamless, or maybe no diameter, garbage is a question, the main thing is what would be cheaper, but there , adjust in place.
There is nothing, garbage is a question, the main thing is there are pipes, and miraculous cold welding will fix everything + glue on top + adhesive tape + wrap with wire + another layer of cold welding, for reliability, the stump is clear.
The fact that the chips got into the tubes when you sawed it with a hacksaw. No hacksaw, did you gnaw with your teeth? you che, khryas about a knee and all, then a hole was torn open with a knife... the same option, the main thing is more cold welding.
Drainage, drainage, drainage, um, there's a piece of hose from my grandmother's washing machine, which her grandfather gave her in honor of the anniversary of the Battle of Borodino.
In general, they lengthened the tracks, put them with tons of ore into the hole, and what the hell did you think, three layers of cold welding, glue, 2 rolls of adhesive tape, a coil of wire 3kg in weight, a hose, so it’s raced like that, they forgot the hose, screwed it all up, it seems to have passed, with a bias no, HZ, the main thing has climbed through and thanks for that
They hung the indoor unit .... staggering somehow, garbage is a question, the welding has not yet frozen, tape it over it, tape it. WAH! What a beauty.
-
4. Outdoor unit.
Necessary. Level, small perforator, small drill, fastenings vn. blocks, bolts, keys.
And I must say, we live on the ground floor, so there are no problems here, they just put him on the ground and his mother. Don't forget to put the grid.
-
5. Connect the lines of the indoor unit to the outdoor unit and vacuum.
you need: monomer, compressor, flaring, keys.
There is nothing, garbage is a question, we take a vacuum cleaner, turn on the full power of the route into the pipe, high sucks and creates a vacuum, oh how.
And now quickly, the main thing is quickly, until the vacuum has come out, attach the tracks to the external unit, bullshit question, will it come out in 10 minutes .... who? Yes, this very vacuum, if it weren’t okay ...... no, for sure, the vacuum doesn’t know how to walk.
Wiring, um, but what the hell are they, so, for electricity, for sure, damn it, they almost forgot. There is a diagram, something is not clear, but what is incomprehensible, twist it under the bolts, and that's all.
Hallelujah, everyone connected.
They crossed themselves .... he said let's go and waved his hand ....
……………….
Buzzing…..
It buzzes, it means it works, but the cold will go, I say for sure, it will go.
After some time
PS. So it’s races like that, they forgot to let the coolant in, they forgot to remove the tracks into the flexes.
They forgot something else, HZ something, but they forgot something.
Bullshit question, call the office, let them come to change under warranty, some defective got caught. That's because ********, ***** they will sell everything, and then suffer normal people. Although they saved on installation, it’s not so insulting, because their races are so.
The curtain.
A manual for self-installation of split systems, FOR DUTTIES, STEP BY STEP, IN FIVE DAYS AND YOU Sensei air conditioning.

Installing an air conditioner is a very complex task that requires certain knowledge and sometimes special tools. In our article today, we will talk about how to install air conditioning at home yourself. There are various types of air conditioning systems, which include mobile and window models, as well as the so-called split systems. As part of our article, we will dwell in more detail on the sequence of actions when installing the last variety.

The process of installing a split system is quite complicated and is carried out in several steps. In this regard, all actions can be divided into three main stages, which include the following:

Works on the installation of the indoor unit;
Actions related to the installation of the outdoor unit;
Vacuuming.

Each of the stages will be considered by us in detail.

Step one: install the indoor unit

If you decide to install a mobile air conditioner at home, then you don’t have to worry about the installation process, you just need to put it in the right place. But with a split system you will have to work hard, since it consists of two blocks, each of which needs a separate installation. If we talk about the indoor unit, then a number of requirements are imposed on its installation. So, for example, it should be at some distance from the ceiling, which should not be less than ten centimeters.

The importance of the above requirement should be understood, since if it is ignored, the following consequences may occur:

his body will quickly become clogged with dust, and it will have to be cleaned almost every day;

dust will also settle on the surface of the ceiling. As a result, not the most beautiful dust spot will be obtained;

the system will not have enough air, and this will subsequently affect its efficiency.

Such an indentation from the wall is required so that it becomes possible to ensure a distance between the curtains and the device of at least ten centimeters. In conditions of a shorter distance, curtains or curtains will constantly flutter, which is also undesirable. Next, install the mounting plate, while it is necessary to adhere to the level. Previously, you should also equip the markup, which is performed using dowels and a puncher.

Further self-installation of the air conditioner involves making a through hole in the wall, which is required in order to lay a line and a drainage system there. For this purpose, it is required to take a drill, the diameter of which is forty-five millimeters, after which you can start making a hole. This tunnel should be designed in such a way that the slight slope required for condensate to flow through it is provided. Further actions will be related to the collection and connection of the route. First you need to measure the required length of the pipe and cut them. This will require the use of a pipe cutter. But it is better not to use a hacksaw for metal, since chips that have got inside will lead to compressor failure.

Next comes the connection of pipes - rolling is used. The quality of the connection that holds the refrigerant also depends on how well this operation is performed. Even before rolling, it is required to put the nut on the tube. This requirement is explained by the impossibility of such an action in the future. It is also important to tighten the nuts to the indoor unit as tightly as possible, this only improves the quality of the connection.

Connected pipes, electrical wiring, as well as the drainage system must be insulated and wrapped with tape. Next, the free trunk ends must be inserted into a previously made hole in the wall. As for the indoor unit itself, it is installed on a bar. At this stage, the installation stages of the air conditioner associated with its indoor unit can be considered completed. Now we move on to the next steps to install the outdoor unit.

Step two: install the outdoor unit

Solving the issue related to the competent installation of the air conditioning system, or rather its external unit, is associated with some risk. This is relevant in the case of high-altitude work. In such cases, insurance is mandatory.

As part of this stage, the first step is to install the brackets. The outdoor unit is in most cases mounted under the window. This decision about its location is explained by the fact that in this way it becomes possible to provide convenient maintenance and repair.

As for the location of the brackets, it is calculated in such a way that the external unit of the air conditioning system would be located below the level of the window sill.

After finishing the marking work, you can proceed to the stage of attaching the brackets to the wall. Due to the fact that the outdoor unit is characterized by a rather significant weight, the brackets must be fixed with maximum reliability. For this, long self-tapping screws are used, the diameter of which should not be less than twelve millimeters. After the installation of the brackets is completed, the unit itself should be lowered onto them directly. It is advisable to mount the block in tandem with an assistant, because due to the considerable mass there is a threat to drop the block.

Further, after installing the unit on the brackets, you will need to securely fasten it. But this must be done by securing all four screws. When these steps are completed, it will be possible to connect trunk elements to it. In this case, it is necessary to carry out all actions very carefully, since it is important not to confuse which of the tubes should be connected to where. In addition, even in the process of connecting them to the indoor unit, it is recommended to make appropriate marks. In all other respects, other actions are carried out similarly to the indoor unit of the air conditioning system.

Stage Three: Vacuuming

When deciding to install an air conditioner at home with your own hands, remember that vacuuming is mandatory. Such a process is a set of actions aimed at creating a vacuum in the tubes of the main line. Without these measures, it is impossible to ensure the operation of the air conditioner. Vacuuming is performed to remove dust and moisture from the pipes. This is done with a special pump connected to the system using a manometric manifold and flexible hoses.

Next, the pump is turned on and a port is opened on the outdoor unit. After the gauge needle goes into vacuum, close the port and turn off the pump. These steps will take no more than fifteen minutes to complete. It may take longer to carry out this operation, but this is not necessary. Do not rush to turn off the pump with a pressure gauge, as the arrow may change its position. So, for example, when it is raised, we can talk about the lack of tightness of the system. Therefore, check all connections in general and rolling in particular.

You can start the refrigerant only after making sure that everything is tight, and it does not matter where you decide to install the air conditioner. At the same time, it is better to leave the pressure gauges in their places. First of all, you need to open the tube responsible for the supply, then the suction tube, after which you can start fixing the freon pressure. It is also important not to confuse the above sequence of actions.

Next, the first launch of the system is performed, which will not happen immediately, you will have to wait for some time. Then you need to let it work for about fifteen minutes. This time is allotted for the complete distribution of freon through the tubes. Then control measurements of pressure are carried out, and the pump equipped with a pressure gauge is turned off. On this work on the installation of a split system can be considered completed.

Installation of a window air conditioner

In cases where you want to install a window air conditioner at home, the steps are somewhat different, since its design is significantly different from a split system. To do this, you will need to remove its front panel and remove the block located on the skid. After that, the housing should be installed with a slight slope towards the street. Then it is assembled in the reverse order and connected to the outlet, adjusting the required power.

An air conditioner is an electrical appliance that refreshes the room in summer and heats it when the temperature drops to zero. Installation of a split system or other climatic device has a number of features and nuances. Knowing them and observing the requirements of technology and safety, you can easily install the equipment yourself.

Principle of operation

An air conditioner is a technically complex device designed to maintain a microclimate in a room. Individual models may differ in the way air is supplied, the number of blocks, power, size and other parameters.

For example, based on the number of blocks used, there is the following classification:

Monoblocks. All functions are performed by one block. This design is easy to maintain and operate, has a long service life. The main disadvantage is the high cost.
Split systems. The design consists of two independent blocks. The first is mounted on the outer wall of the house, the second - inside. The blocks are connected by a tube through which freon moves. The indoor unit contains the evaporator and fan, other parts are placed in the external one.
Multisplit systems. With one external, such structures have a different number of internal blocks. This is convenient if the owners plan to provide an optimal microclimate in several adjacent rooms.

This air conditioner consists of two units, communications and remote control

Regardless of the model, the functioning of any climatic device is based on the property of liquids to give off heat during condensation and absorb it during evaporation.

The main units of the unit include:

The compressor in which freon is compressed, after which it is sent to the refrigeration circuit.
Evaporator. Here the refrigerant evaporates and passes into the gaseous stage.
The condenser responsible for the reverse process is the transition of freon to the liquid stage.
Expansion valve (TRV), which reduces the pressure of the refrigerant before it is sent to the evaporator.
Fans blowing all important parts.

All nodes, with the exception of fans, are connected by copper pipes. As a result, a refrigerant circuit is formed, with a constantly circulating refrigerant mixed with compressor oil.

The principle of operation of most air conditioners is as follows:

The evaporator sends gaseous freon to the compressor. At this point, the temperature of the refrigerant reaches 10–20 degrees at a pressure of 3–5 atmospheres.
Freon is compressed in the compressor. There is an increase in pressure to 15–20 atmospheres and heating of the refrigerant to 80–90 degrees. After that, it is redirected to the condenser.
In the condenser, the refrigerant cools and becomes liquid. The air passing through the node is heated.
Further, liquid freon, which is under high pressure, is transferred to the expansion valve. In most household units, this device is a copper spiral pipe. In the process of circulation, the pressure and temperature of freon decrease, some of it evaporates.
The freon then goes to the evaporator. Here it finally takes on a gaseous form, cooling the room where the air conditioner is installed. The air in the room becomes cooler. Next, the gaseous refrigerant under reduced pressure is supplied to the compressor and the cycle begins to repeat.

All air conditioners work according to this principle, regardless of the number of units and other features of a particular model.

Tools and equipment

Installation of split systems and multi-split systems is best done simultaneously with the overhaul of the premises. If the walls are already finished, you can safely order a new cladding.

For installation, you will need the following set of tools and materials:

Powerful puncher and a set of chisels. When installing, you will need to drill a hole with a diameter of 10 centimeters in the bearing wall.
Pipe cutter. It is not allowed to cut the refrigerant pipes with an ordinary hacksaw. Copper filings and chips, which will inevitably remain after cutting, will quickly disable the compressor.
Armature detector. When installing a split system in a concrete wall and hitting the fittings during work, you will have to make another hole.
Pipe flaring kit.
A bicycle pump that checks the tightness of the system.
Vacuum pump. It checks the system for leaks.
Manometer, phase indicator, tester.

It removes moisture and air from the system for a subsequent leak test.

The specific set of materials depends on the type of air conditioner being installed and installation features. In particular, to install a split system, you will need the following:

Copper pipes with reverse nuts and heat-insulating material. Necessary for laying the track.
Electric machine for 20A and cable.
Decorative boxes for laying pipes, drainage and electrical cables. If the routes are laid in strobes, the electrical wiring will be placed in the corrugated pipe.
Brackets for mounting remote and indoor units.
Drainage hoses.
Fittings, bolts, fasteners, screws, dowels, etc.

It is better to purchase a copper tube with some margin. With a sufficiently long piping, it is possible to lower the outdoor unit a little lower. This allows you to compensate for a small overspending on the purchase of a good thermosyphon.

When buying a pipe in a bay, you need to make sure that its ends are rolled by the factory method. Cracks and dents are excluded.

Preparatory work

Before proceeding with the installation of the air conditioner, it is necessary to carry out a number of preliminary procedures and calculations. First of all, you need to decide on the place where the installation will be made.

Choice of mounting location

The quality of air conditioning, the well-being of the owners living or working in the premises, the design of the house or apartment depend on where the air conditioner is installed.

The choice of location for a window air conditioner is obvious. Mobile air conditioner can be installed in any desired location. The main problem is with classic split systems.

When choosing a place for installation, in particular, the indoor unit, you can be guided by several recommendations:

Do not place the device on the wall opposite the entrance to the room.
The distance from the block to the ceiling should not be less than 10 centimeters.
The air flow is directed to the side where people are least infrequent. If the split system is installed in the bedroom, it should be placed away from the bed. If remote mounting is not possible, the unit can be mounted overhead to allow cold air to flow to the feet.
The air conditioner is installed at some distance from the cabinets. If the furniture stands next to and slightly below the split system, air currents, blowing dust from the top cover, form a dusty curtain.
The duct route can be laid in ducts or pre-equipped gates. The minimum length of the duct can reduce the cost of installing a split.

The place for installing the outdoor unit is selected separately. The easiest option is to place the block on the outer wall of a balcony or loggia. It can also be installed on the roof. The second method is relevant for residents of the last floors of high-rise buildings.

Checking the air conditioner

Before carrying out installation work, the air conditioner must be carefully inspected. The owner must ensure that the unit has not been damaged in transit and that all parts specified in the package are included.

When inspecting the air conditioner, make sure of the following:

The outdoor unit of the split system should not have dents, cracks or other deformations.
There must be no foreign elements at the joints. The thread must be clean and free from damage. Deep scratches on the metal are unacceptable, this is a sign of marriage or unskilled dismantling.
There are stickers on the outdoor unit that detail the manufacturer, power and other information about the air conditioner. All these data must match the instructions.
The electrical circuit of the air conditioner must be located under the cover or in another accessible place.
The package of the split system must include screws with which the remote unit is attached to the bracket. If their presence is not provided by the manufacturer, they are purchased separately.
Damage to the indoor unit is not allowed.
Filters must be free of stains, odors, and traces of detergents. If this is present, then the air conditioner was in use and washed.

If there are no visible deformations, you can check the operation of the air conditioner. To do this, the indoor unit of the split system starts in the “fan” mode from the nearest outlet. Other modes do not need to be checked, this will lead to incorrect operation of the device. If everything works properly, you can disconnect the unit from the network and continue with the installation.

Do-it-yourself installation of air conditioners

There are several types of air conditioners on the HVAC market. The most common among them are conventional and multi-split systems, window, floor and channel models. The installation of each of them has its own characteristics. Let's analyze the installation of all systems in more detail.

split system

It is the most common type of air conditioner. This is a structure consisting of two blocks connected to each other. One of them is located indoors and provides an optimal climate, the other is installed outside.

outdoor unit

Installing the external part is the most difficult part of installing a split system. When designing high-rise buildings, such work is carried out with the help of industrial mountaineering.

First, brackets are attached to the wall of the building. With some models of split systems, they are included, for others they will have to be purchased separately. For fixing parts, anchor bolts are used, which are purchased complete with brackets. Thanks to a reliable fastening, the block will not fall, even if it freezes.

When installing the unit, it is necessary to observe the distance from the walls. Specific figures are indicated in the documentation for the split system. The structure is placed horizontally, during installation it is necessary to use the building level.

Some blocks weigh more than 100 kg. They require a lift to install.

The installation technology is as follows:

Holes for anchor bolts are drilled strictly perpendicular to the wall surface.
The minimum distance that the block must be moved away from the wall is 20 centimeters. The exact numbers are indicated in the instructions.
All communications suitable for the block are securely fixed.
Directly above the unit there should not be any architectural structures, as well as other air conditioners. A small visor is installed on top.
The mass of the block can exceed one hundred kilograms. When choosing a bracket, it must be taken into account that it must withstand twice the weight of the unit: this will allow it to endure the effects of various weather phenomena.

The maximum distance that open communications of a split system can go along the wall does not exceed 1 meter.

The installation of an air conditioner on a ventilated facade and a loggia has its own characteristics. The complexity of the first case lies in the fact that the building is already lined with a layer of insulation and porcelain stoneware fixed on metal rails. Installation on a ventilated facade is carried out as follows:

Certain nuances are also associated with the installation of an air conditioner on a balcony or loggia. Installation of the outdoor unit inside the building is prohibited, because it is often placed on the parapet. Some homeowners install a split inside a glazed loggia. In this case, the windows must be left open, otherwise the system will not work normally.

indoor unit

The unit is installed under the ceiling, with a certain distance from the walls. The distance to the nearest surfaces for each model is determined individually and is indicated in the attached documentation. When installing, please note that the indoor unit is installed higher than the outdoor unit.

The system is installed in two ways:

Parallel to the floor. The design is exhibited according to the building level.
With a slight slope (about 5 degrees) to the drainage. This makes it easier to drain the condensate.

Before starting installation work, the points of attachment to the wall are marked. For this, chalk and a building level are used.

The mounting plate is attached first. Most often it is included in the installation kit. If the package is incomplete, it is necessary to measure the parameters of the block and purchase the part. 4-6 screws are used for fastening.

A block is installed on the plate. For unhindered access to the fittings for further work, you can put a small object under the air conditioner, for example, a screwdriver.

If there are increased high-frequency vibrations in the room, for example, from machine tools, it is not necessary to install a split system here.

Laying the route and communications

A hole is needed to carry out the necessary communications. It is drilled with a perforator, the diameter of the drill is up to 5 cm. If drainage is laid in the same route, the channel is made with a slight slope (up to 10 degrees) to the street. The route section is laid into the wall, if this is not possible (for example, after repairs in the room), it is possible to carry out outdoor installation using a decorative box.

The standard communication route includes:

Freon line - copper tubes of a given length.
Wiring.
Drainage - sporadically.

Freon pipes, wiring and drain hose are laid

The length of electrical wiring and pipelines depends on the length of the route, taking into account a small margin. Copper pipes are cut with a pipe cutter; when using a grinder or other devices, sawdust and burrs appear. Before installation, the pipes are placed in a heat-insulating shell - this excludes the penetration of construction waste into the interior.

With external laying, communications can be hidden in the cable channel

After laying, it is necessary to connect the wiring and the freon pipe. The wiring diagram is contained in the instructions supplied with each air conditioner.

To connect a freon pipe, it is necessary to adjust its size, remove burrs (if any), thread nuts and flare the edges. After that, the pipes are brought to the fittings of both blocks, connected, the nuts are tightened with a wrench. Ensure that all connections are completely sealed.

Drainage

For drainage, a reinforced plastic pipe is used. It is connected to the drain pipe, for which a threaded flange is used (if this method is provided for by the design) or a heat-shrinkable tube.

According to technology, the drainage is discharged into the sewer. In practice, many owners take the handset outside the house. It is important that it does not bend upwards: water accumulates at the bend, fungi and microbes appear and spread in it.

Final works

After installing communications, laying the route, etc., the line is checked for tightness and evacuated. The pump is connected to the port using a manometric manifold and pumps out air for 20 minutes. Then the device turns off, after which it is necessary to observe the pressure for some time. If within half an hour the readings on the pressure gauge have not changed, the system is considered sealed.

After the final check, you can open the taps on the outdoor unit, fill the system with freon. Refrigerant leakage is not allowed: this not only provokes malfunctions in the split system, but also negatively affects human health. Next, the structure is connected to the network. In most domestic air conditioners, power is supplied to the indoor unit, for which you just need to put an electrical outlet nearby.

Video: step by step installation

How to install a window air conditioner yourself

Installing a window-type air conditioner does not require laying tracks, carrying out high-altitude work and other difficulties inherent in installing split systems.

Free gaps are closed with decorative inserts

When working, you must follow the specified sequence of actions:

Site preparation. The glass is removed, a "jumper" is placed.
Bracket mounting.
Block installation.
Connecting a drain hose, if provided by the design.
Connecting the air conditioner to the power supply.

Video: connecting a window structure

floor system

The floor conditioner also does not demand installation of the external block and can be established in any place. It is only necessary to ensure the removal of heated air outside the room. Some simply lead the air duct to an open window - this minimizes the operation of the air conditioner itself.

To prevent heated air from entering the room from the street or from the duct, it is necessary to equip the ventilation duct. To do this, you can order a plastic window with a suitable hole in the profile organization, or purchase plexiglass and cut it with your own hands.

An open window makes it pointless to cool the room

To make a hole of suitable size in plexiglass, you need to attach an air duct to it, circle it in a circle and cut a hole. An improved soldering iron is suitable as a cutting tool: an incision is made in the “sting” of the tool, into which a blade from a breadboard knife is inserted. During operation of the device, the blade heats up and begins to cut plastic.

ducted

The main advantage of channel-type air conditioners is the ability to combine cooled air with outdoor air, thereby performing ventilation functions. To do this, an additional air duct is supplied to the unit. The following procedures are required to organize a mix:

A hole for the air duct is drilled in the outer wall.
From the side of the street, a grate is inserted into the hole. An electric valve is installed next to it. When the air conditioner stops, it blocks the air supply.
Air duct is installed. Air will flow through it into the filter.
Further along the circuit, an electric heater is installed. Filtered air enters it. Heating ensures optimum room temperature in winter.
The final node is a duct fan that circulates air.

The installation of the ducted air conditioner itself consists of the installation of an external and internal unit, as well as a pipe system. The outdoor unit is the same as a conventional split system. The indoor unit is installed under suspended or suspended ceilings.

If the installation takes place in a private house, it can be placed in a technical or attic room.

The peculiarity of this type of air conditioner is that it can be used to control the microclimate in several rooms without compromising the interior decoration. This is ensured by a system of ventilation ducts, from which heated or cooled (depending on the settings) air passes from the unit through drilled and barred diffuser holes into the rooms.

The air is distributed through the pipes and through the diffusers enters the room

Some models allow vertical mounting. In this case, the unit is located in the gap between the walls. This must be foreseen at the stage of construction of the building. Some models can be mounted on a load-bearing wall and hidden with a false column or partition.

The winter kit allows you to use the split system at very low temperatures. The package includes:

A device that heats the crankcase of the compressor of the outdoor unit. Thanks to him, a "cold start" becomes impossible.
Fan speed control device. It redirects the air flow and prevents the inside of the air conditioner from freezing.
Drainage heating device installed in the indoor unit. Thanks to this detail, icing of the condensate outlet is excluded.

Modern devices are equipped with their own thermal sensors and automation.

Installation is as follows:

The protective covers and top cover of the outdoor unit are removed. The front panel is removed. The need to dismantle the rear wall depends on the design features of a particular model.
The connection diagram of the fan controller depends on the type of connected device. For example, Fasec-33 is installed in the neutral break (wires that go to the capacitor), the Ballu device is built into the phase break.
The crankcase heater is built into the bottom of the compressor and connected to the power supply. Modern models have their own temperature sensor, and when the set temperature is reached, the heating turns off automatically.
Band-type heaters used for the drain system are installed directly inside the hose and are powered from the crankcase heater or compressor start terminals. Drains need to be warmed up only during operation of the air conditioning compressor and the possible formation of condensate. The length of the heater must completely cover both the outdoor part of the drain hose and 15–20 cm located in the wall.

Before installing the parts, the block is disassembled

Video: How to install a winter kit

Safety precautions when installing an air conditioner

When installing the air conditioner, the following safety precautions must be observed:

The unit must not be installed in close proximity to potential sources of moisture or heat.
The unit must not be installed next to a doorway.
We repeat that air currents should not be directed at a person.
Condensate must be drained, otherwise bacteria may form.
The unit is mounted on a solid wall. During installation, a special plate and brackets included in the kit are used. Installation is carried out by level.

Many works related to the installation of a household air conditioner do not require qualifications and are carried out independently. If you have the skills of a builder or an electrician, installation is carried out without serious difficulties.

Compared to other air conditioning devices, the split system has a more complex two-block design. This system consists of an external compressor and condenser module and an internal evaporator module with an appropriate number of communications through which freon and electricity are supplied, and condensate is removed. This scheme complicates the installation, but does not exclude self-installation. To install such an air conditioner yourself, it is enough to familiarize yourself with the instructions, fill in the lack of knowledge and experience through Internet resources, and consult with specialists.

Installation features depend on the design of the indoor module, which can be wall-mounted or floor-mounted. To save space in small apartments, a wall-mounted air conditioner is usually used. Such a split is somewhat more difficult to install due to the need for a strong wall mount. But regardless of the details, the work is carried out in the following sequence:

installation of separate wiring;
installation of an external condenser unit;
fastening of the evaporator (internal block);
connection of communications with vacuuming;
test inclusion.

Instruments

You will need a tool to install the split yourself. The set is recommended to include:

a drill with a hammer drill and an appropriate set of drills that can break through a solid concrete wall;
pipe cutter for neat cutting of pipes without the threat of clogging with copper chips;
a set for flaring the edges of the tubes, which will ensure the tightness of the connections;
An example that can be used to clean the ends of connections;
a pump, possibly a bicycle pump, to assess tightness;
vacuum cleaner, to remove moisture from the system by evacuation;
indicator screwdriver and tester for laying electrical wiring;
pressure gauge.

How to choose a seat

Before installing the split system modules, it is necessary to correctly determine their location. For the outdoor unit, the place must:

protect the device from direct sunlight and dust;
guarantee the stability of the structure;
provide free space sufficient for the normal operation of the device.

Here, such a situation is excluded, and the visor provides the necessary protection for the unit. Ease of maintenance is an added bonus. When choosing a place for the compressor you need:

provide protection from heating by the sun or heating;
eliminate the risk of ignition of various fumes and gas leaks;
provide the necessary free space according to the instructions and the distance from the floor along the perimeter of the block;
prevent pickups from constantly operating electrical appliances (at least a meter distance);
guarantee the strength of the wall, which does not allow the collapse of the structure.

Installation of separate wiring

Split system, even in the most low-power version, requires at least 1.5 kW. Such power requires a separate line, unloaded by other consumers, especially in houses earlier than the 90th year.

For her you need:

two-core wire with a cross section of 1.5 to 2 mm, necessarily copper;
16A cut off switch.

If you plan to hide the wiring in the strobe, then you should take care of this during the repair so as not to spoil the expensive interior of the renovated apartment. When the idea to install a split came after the repair, the solution could be to install additional wiring in the box. Either way, this will:

avoid overload;
prevent device failure.
eliminate the risk of fire as a result of a short circuit.

Installing an external condensing unit

The complexity of this stage depends on the place where it is decided to place the air conditioner. Three options can be used:

on the open balcony;
on the loggia;
on the wall.

On the balcony, it is enough to install short brackets and place the module on them. The function of protection will be performed by a regular visor of the balcony.

When choosing a loggia, you can limit yourself to the same brackets, but remember that a closed space does not provide the necessary air circulation, which will disable the air conditioner.

Open doors will help to avoid this, which reduces the value of the loggia, especially in winter. It is impossible to mount the module on the wall without reinforced brackets, which must confidently support the weight several times greater than the mass of the unit itself. For their fastening it is better to use long anchors with a diameter of 20 mm.

Mounting the evaporator and installing communications

Before installing it, it is necessary to mark the mounting points. Check them horizontally and vertically with a level. After that, the work is performed in the following order:

Holes are drilled according to the markup and anchors are inserted.
The mounting plate is fastened with screws;
In accordance with the position of the block, a hole is punched for communications (50 - 80 mm) with a slight slope outward for drainage.
A waterproofing glass with a tube is mounted in the holes.
a check is made for the correct connection of the wire to the terminals in accordance with the diagram.
Pipes with thermal insulation made of flex and drainage are connected to the corresponding nozzles.
If it is necessary to lengthen the edges of the tubes with the nuts put on, they are pre-flared.
A compact bundle (route) is formed from tubes, drainage and wires with the help of electrical tape, which is passed through the hole to the outside.
The indoor unit is hung on the mounting plate.

After completing the above work, you can install the outdoor unit on the previously fixed brackets and bring the route to it. Excessive efforts should be avoided when bending the tubes, in order to avoid deformation and wrinkles (permissible bending radius of at least 100 mm). If the air conditioner hangs over the pavement, then you need to take care of alternative options for removing condensate indoors.

Sealing and evacuation

It is impossible to correctly install the split without sealing and evacuating communications. The joints are sealed with a soapy solution and a conventional bicycle pump. The solution is applied to the connections and the tubes are pumped using a pump. When bubbles appear, the nuts are carefully tightened 1/8. The procedure is performed until the bubbling stops.

Then vacuuming is carried out, which removes air, dust and moisture residues. For this:

open several running ports;
connect the vacuum pump through the service port;
turn it on and wait for a pressure of 10 mm Hg;
close the low pressure lever;
turn off the pump, return the plugs to all open ports.

Testing

Before checking, we fill the split with freon or refrigerant, depending on the requirements of the instructions, to the specified pressure. Testing is switched on by means of a disconnector. When the installation is done correctly, the air conditioner will automatically enter the test mode. Its result should be:

normal flow of cold air;
the correct position of the blinds;
condensate outflow through the drain.

If you have all the signs of a split, you can operate it on a daily basis. Otherwise, you will need to contact a specialist. This will void your air conditioner warranty.

So it is not recommended to install such an air conditioner yourself. It is better to immediately weigh your strength and think about inviting a specialist.