Socle of a bath from blocks or a brick. Brick bath: features of interior decoration, basement, foundation, chimney, photo, etc. Arrangement of a pile-screw base

Official standards for a brick base existed exclusively in Tsarist Russia. At present, the construction of this structural element of the building is justified in the presence of an underground level (basement, technical underground or a whole floor), the need to level the foundation, use it as a decorative element of the facades, if the foundation is poured flush with the ground.

According to the terminology of the SNiP standards of 1980, number I-2, the base is called Bottom part a wall that can sink / protrude relative to its plane (usually ¼ of a brick) or be flush with it. To understand why a brick base is needed, it is necessary to take into account the options used to build the building technologies:

on a slab base, a plinth is necessary for the manufacture of a technical underground;
if a strip foundation is used (prefabricated from reinforced concrete blocks or monolithic), the horizontal level is leveled with masonry for laying floors;
when choosing the technology of a log house, a “framework”, a cottage made of SIP panels, a brick plinth is necessary for an even distribution of structural, operational loads on the base of the house;
the foundation is poured at the zero mark (ground level), the basement provides the necessary level of the floor of the first floor.

Depending on the type of construction, the base has both advantages and disadvantages:

protruding - decorates the facade, emphasizes the original architecture, but quickly collapses without cladding;
construction, when facing, the thickness is aligned with the walls;
flush - in fact, it is a continuation of the walls, when finishing it becomes protruding.

The choice of the design of this element is made during the design, depending on the preferences of the owner.

Technology for the manufacture of brick plinth

Having decided what a brick base is for, you can start building. For laying the foot of the building does not require high qualifications, special equipment.

Material selection

Experts do not recommend the use of silicate brick, concrete blocks due to the maximum hygroscopicity of these materials. In addition to destruction from the moisture they absorb from the air, the earth, they transfer it to the walls or to the foundation. In addition, they do not adhere well to their surface. decorative plaster, which is most often trimmed with masonry. the best choice are:

clinker is the most durable of existing analogues, has a high resource, does not require finishing, is absolutely waterproof, but too expensive, therefore it is rarely used;
clay - more often called ordinary, has a minimal aesthetics of perception, decoration is necessary, the material is chosen for frost resistance (M 150 - M 250 for 50 - 100 seasons, respectively), this is a budget brick that allows you to reduce the construction budget;
ceramics - average price, excellent decorative properties, there are full-bodied, hollow modifications;
porous - minimally loads the foundation structure, does not need cladding, is an improved analogue of ceramics, therefore it costs more, there are large-format modifications with non-standard sizes;
dry, semi-dry pressing - outwardly resembles ceramics, but is not fired, has less frost resistance, is inexpensive, masonry does not need lining;

Solid clay brick - the most suitable material for the plinth.

When choosing a brick other than the walls, the plinth by default becomes an independent design element of the facades.

What tools will be required

To build a brick base, you will need a standard trowel, level, mooring, plumb line, cord, pick. When using facing bricks, it is better to cut with an angle grinder (grinder) with a diamond blade or stone tooling. For the solution, you will need a bucket with a shovel or a bucket with a drill, a mixer. Professionals are able to get by with a piece of roofing material or a sheet of iron, it is better for a home master not to risk the quality of the batches.

For facing masonry, special devices are available to facilitate leveling pastels in each row. The only drawback of the Bricky fixture is its adaptation to foreign bricks, the dimensions of which are somewhat different from domestic counterparts.

Choice of plinth width

The brick plinth has a width depending on the type chosen (flush, protruding, protruding), wall thickness. For example, for masonry 51 cm, this value is in the range of 45-57 cm. There are options when the foot is wider than the foundation - in this case, the release of a brick on any side is limited to ¼ of its length (6 cm). If for the thickness of the walls a similar overlap of masonry of the first row along the base is not enough, the foundation will have to be added from the convenient side, increasing its width.

What height to make the base

Due to the lack of regulatory documentation for the construction of the foot of the house, the brick base can be of arbitrary height. Experts do not recommend building it above half of the first floor - this will violate the architecture of the building, the exterior of the facades.

Without a project, only garden houses can be built; in all other cases, the necessary marks for all structures are included in the documentation. Self-builders solve the problem of the height of the foot as follows:

if the foundation is poured at ground level, choose a masonry height of 0.7-1 m;
if a plinth is needed for a technical underground, they are guided by the dimensions engineering systems(usually pump equipment, valves), which should fit in it;
if the foot is necessary to complete the basement floor, choose a comfortable ceiling height in the lower level.

In the last two options, insulation is often placed in the basement design (if the brick is facing) or external insulation is performed, taking into account its thickness.

Foundation waterproofing

Unlike the outdoor soil, the ground under the house does not freeze in any frost. It contains moisture absorbed by concrete, transmitted to the upper structures. Therefore, the foundation is necessarily cut off from them with a waterproofing layer.

In order to waterproof the foundation with high quality, it is enough to lay two layers of roll material, a membrane or a film along its perimeter. Side surfaces concrete tape also needs to be treated to protect against flood, ground, melt water. In this case, deep penetration primers that change the structure of the material are much more effective.

The upper waterproofing is overlapped at the joints, protrudes 2-3 cm beyond the perimeter, cut off at the end of the masonry.

markup

Before laying on the waterproofing layer, it does not hurt to check the diagonals, the compliance of the foundation dimensions with the design dimensions. To do this, the easiest way is to install pegs in the corners (0.5-0.7 m from the base of the dwelling), stretch the cords. This will allow you to measure the length of the walls, diagonals with an accuracy of 1 cm.

Ventilation products

The tape base will not be effective if ventilation holes are not left in it. When using bricks, they do not have to be made round; you can make small rectangular, square windows using sheet steel and reinforcement as lintels.

They should be on all walls, including internal partitions. You can’t close them with insulation for the winter, you can’t plug them - humidity is present in this space all year round. Therefore, it is more reasonable to lay decorative lattices in the masonry or provide for their sizes during construction.

Proportions for mortar

When laying bricks on a strip foundation, a plastic mortar is required. As standard for manufacturing different brands different proportions of sand, cement are used, respectively:

M75 - 3/1
M50 - 4/1
M25 - 5/1

The base will be stronger if you use the first two options. At the same time, it is necessary to check the quality of sand using available methods:

Squeeze a handful of non-metallic material in your hand with some effort;
Loosen your grip to check the result;
If the sand woke up on the ground completely, partially, there is a minimum amount of clay impurities in it, in the case of a lump formed (more than 2/3), there is too much clay in the sand for a normal solution.

An excess of clay is dangerous due to the forces of frost heaving arising in it - in winter period masonry may crack. The plasticity of the solution can be given with ordinary soap or detergents by adding a couple of Fairy caps when kneading.

Making corners

To increase the pace of stone work, the corners are usually laid out on a strip foundation along a plumb line / level, after which cords are pulled, the walls are periodically controlled by the rule. Laying corners traditionally requires a highly skilled craftsman or the use of orders. The main condition for the maximum resource of the base is the dressing of vertical, horizontal seams. Depending on the height of the base, an in-line or multi-row dressing can be used:

For laying one and a half bricks, it looks like

Scheme of a single-row dressing of the corners of a brick base of a strip foundation, a wall of 1.5 bricks.

For multi-row dressing, a different scheme is used

Scheme of multi-row dressing of the corners of a brick base of a strip foundation, a wall of 1.5 bricks

When choosing a base in two bricks, the design of the ligation of the corners changes as follows

Scheme of a single-row dressing of the corners of a brick base of a strip foundation, a wall of 2 bricks.

The number of pins here is higher than in the previous case. For multi-row dressing, the scheme is more complicated

Scheme of a multi-row dressing of the corners of a brick base of a strip foundation, a wall of 2 bricks.

Plinth decoration

At the final stage, the strip plinth made of ordinary brick must be lined. For this, facade plasters or special claddings are used:

basement siding - imitation of stone, brickwork;
stone - artificial, natural;
porcelain stoneware is a large-format material with high frost resistance.

Facing is usually done after the construction of the building box, roofing. Using the orders, recommendations of specialists, the home master will be able to avoid mistakes, get the maximum design resource, and ensure a reduction in the construction budget.

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Brick baths are rightfully considered the most reliable and durable. Having correctly built a good brick bath, you will forget for many years about any problems, it will not lead, the brick will not start to rot, pests are not afraid of it.

And one of the most important - this bath will serve your grandchildren and great-grandchildren. But the brick is different, in this article we will consider its varieties and scope.

Product varieties

Red brick is the most commonly used material; walls, partitions and even stoves can be laid out from this material. For walls, an ordinary hollow one can be used, since the walls in the bath are made two-layer with a mandatory gap between the walls, which is filled with thermal insulation. For facade cladding, red cladding can be used. For laying a brick oven bath, heat-resistant grades M75 or M150 are used.

Fireclay brick - refers to refractory materials, made on the basis of fireclay clay. In the bath, it is used for laying the firebox of furnaces, for arranging screens in wooden baths and baths with metal furnaces. Also used for fireplaces, stationary barbecues or barbecues. The most suitable brands are SHA and SB. Most often, ShB-5 is used for laying furnaces.

Salt bricks for a bath - a material that has appeared relatively recently, is salt blocks, the best blocks are considered to be Pakistan-made from salt mined in the Himalayan mountains. Salt blocks in the bath are used exclusively for healing and improving the microclimate in the room.
Their price is quite high, but the healing effect of their use more than covers all costs.

Aerated concrete and foam concrete are the product of new technologies. They are blocks of a sufficiently large size, the material is porous, therefore it is light in weight. Even an amateur can build a bath of aerated concrete with his own hands, with a strong desire, you just need a good instruction plus material.
The blocks themselves are good heat insulators, so such bath structures do not require additional insulation. The only weak point of aerated concrete is that it absorbs moisture, but with proper exterior and interior decoration, this disadvantage is reduced to zero.

Silicate brick is not suitable for arranging a bath, as it absorbs moisture and can be used exclusively for external cladding.

Areas of use

Furnace masonry

At this time, a lot of different stoves for baths are being produced, but we will consider the classic stove made of bricks.

It is rightfully considered the most durable and useful in terms of healing effect.

The foundation for the stove of the bath is laid by analogy with the strip foundation of the house. Slightly below the freezing point of the soil. A blind area is made of sand and gravel, formwork is mounted on it, a reinforcing frame is laid and poured with concrete. Such a foundation will harden for at least 1 month.

Important: the foundation for the furnace must be laid separately from the main foundation, the distance to the nearest wall is at least 50 mm and covered with sand.
Plus, the size of the foundation itself should be 50 mm larger than the furnace around the perimeter.

Brick for laying the furnace is used only full-bodied, monolithic. The best option is to lay out the entire furnace from fireclay bricks, but its price is higher, therefore it is allowed to use red bricks of the M75 brand for laying the base and chimney, and the firebox itself is made of refractory fireclay SHB-5. Before laying, the brick is soaked in water.
Waterproofing from roofing material is initially laid on the foundation in 2 - 3 layers. Since the foundation is initially laid slightly below the floor level, a plinth of 2 layers of bricks is laid on the cement mortar. A metal sheet and another continuous row lie on the base.
Starting from the 2nd to the 4th row, inclusive, there is a blower zone. In the 2nd row, we begin to mount the door, a metal wire is attached to it before installation, which is subsequently sunk into the solution between the rows. Also, the door around the perimeter is wrapped with asbestos rope, which provides a damper gap.

Important: from a metal sheet and above, the furnace is laid on greasy clay or modern special refractory mortars. The thickness of the seam is about 3 mm, it is convenient to control the bed initially on a brick 2 wires with a cross section of 3 mm, after laying, the wire is pulled out.

Next, the firebox itself is laid out, exclusively refractory fireclay material comes here. Before installation of the 5th row, cast-iron grates are installed. The firebox is 5 rows high, 1.5 bricks wide, 3 bricks long.
After the firebox, a chimney is mounted to the ceiling with a gradual narrowing, in top point its cross section will be 1 brick. IN interfloor overlap a metal box 40x40 cm is made around the chimney and covered with expanded clay, otherwise the materials bordering the pipe can quickly deteriorate, from temperature or even catch fire.

The screen in the bath

Quite often, metal stoves are used in the bath. Modern metal stoves heat the steam room quickly enough, but technologically, many models require a brick screen.

The brick screen in the bath plays the role of a case for the stove, it has channels for convection of hot air and contributes to smooth heating.

But when arranging the screen, some design requirements should be taken into account.

Laying should be carried out vertically at a distance of 40 - 60 mm from the main metal casing of the furnace, this gap ensures the free movement of hot air.
In the lower rows of the screen, cast-iron doors are equipped; with their help, the air supply during convection is regulated.
The thickness of the screen is usually made in half a brick, it is not recommended to make it thinner, since the screen can overheat, thicker is possible.
Because brick chimney for metal furnaces, due to its large mass, it is not used, the screen can play the role of a support for the chimney. In this case, its heat transfer increases many times.
The use of refractory fireclay bricks is recommended, but this recommendation is not mandatory, the fact is that the heating temperature of the screen is not so high and, in our opinion, any solid material can be used, and the screen can be laid on an ordinary cement-sand mortar.
When the furnace is fired from an adjacent room, tunnels are arranged in the screen panel for access to the furnace and blower.
The screen serving as a brick partition in a wooden bath is laid out completely up to the ceiling. In this case, the distance from the screen to the wooden walls must be at least 40 cm.

salt screens

At this time, everyone knows the therapeutic effect of salt chambers, lamps, therapy in salt mines. By arranging a small salt screen in your bathhouse, you will multiply the healing effect of visiting such a bathhouse.

To equip the screen, special salt bricks for the bath are used. This natural material, which is cut from a solid monolith of salt and has a strictly certain form. Salt blocks can withstand temperatures up to 500˚С, so they can be used when arranging protective screens around a metal heater.

It is possible to completely or partially lay out a partition between the steam room and the relaxation room from salt blocks. Blocks are laid using special fasteners or an adhesive solution based on caustic magnesite and magnesium chloride 3: 5, initially salt is dissolved in the water, and then magnesite is added. Can be laid on liquid glass, but it is not durable.

Walling

A brick bath is a building for centuries. But if you decide to build directly from bricks and do not have practical laying experience, we advise you to turn to professionals, as the walls are laid in 2 layers with an air chamber between the walls, which can be filled with thermal insulation. For an amateur, such styling is quite problematic.

The most affordable material for building walls with your own hands is aerated concrete or foam concrete. The blocks are large and light, fastened with a special glue quickly enough. Blocks are easily cut with a hacksaw. In addition, the price for them is lower than for brick or wood.

Important: aerated concrete and foam concrete absorb moisture, therefore, during construction, the walls must be properly finished, and when finishing, the rule should be observed, the thickness of the interior finish should be 2 times greater than the outer one.

9ban.ru

How do we make a basement for a bath?

A red brick plinth is very necessary for a log bath. You can read about its benefits in our article about the base. Here I will tell you how we do it.

After we have poured the foundation for the bath, we lay roofing material over it to waterproof the foundation from the basement. Next, along the diagonals and dimensions of the log house, lay out the bricks in 3 rows. It seems nothing intricate, but there are some nuances here.

The first row goes poke, the second spoon, and the third poke again. We make 3 rows of basement at least.
The base thickness is usually 25 cm
Basement insulation is not included in the project cost, but here I agree that it could be insulated. Be sure to stay outside so that the dew point remains not in the basement, but in the insulation (for example, in polystyrene foam)
In each room we leave air ducts, if the rooms are interconnected, it is better in opposite walls, for burst ventilation, more on the video:

We immediately provide a hole for Bastu ventilation
We immediately lay out the podium under the stove, put the podium one more brick, for safety, to raise the stove from the floor
We use basement brick a brand of at least M-150, we usually do it
We calculate the base so that the log house sits exactly in the middle
We also lay out a layer of roofing material on top of the basement.

Try to use quarry sand for the basement, it is easier to work with it and it does not settle. If it is not possible to use a quarry, then buy liquid soap and add 50 grams per batch.

And here are a couple of videos from us :)

Easy steam for you!

beribanyu.ru

Stages of erection of a strip foundation for a summer residence

Place of construction of the strip foundation: summer cottage in a garden society.

Foundation dimensions: 6 × 6 m. Including: dressing room (rest room) - 3 × 6 m., sink - 3 × 4 m., steam room - 2 × 3 m.

Features of the building site: the former owners of the site began to build a strip foundation on three sides along the perimeter of the bath, the size of one side is 6m, the size of two sides is 4m each, the width of the foundation is 300 mm, the height is 300 mm. Another one important feature of this section - at the time of construction work, there was no possibility of connecting to electrical networks.

Task: to complete the remaining strip foundation (perimeter and under internal partitions).

1. Preparation construction site. The construction site must be freed from debris and any foreign objects, the vegetation layer of the soil must be removed, the site must be leveled.
2. Breakdown of the site according to the planned plan. In order to take out the axes, a geodetic instrument was used - theodolite. Along the perimeter of the future strip foundation, wooden pegs were installed and a cord was pulled.

and the absence of a theodolite, we recall the Pythagorean theorem that in a right triangle the sum of the squares of the legs is equal to the square of the hypotenuse, we take a tape measure and a cord, we make a breakdown.
3. Creation of a trench. In order to build a strip foundation, it is necessary to dig a trench, the depth of which can be individual, depending on the characteristics of the soil in the area. In our case, backfilling was previously done on the site, so a layer was removed fertile soil to a dense layer of sand, and the trench depth was 250 mm. When erecting a strip foundation, a layer of sand and a layer of crushed stone are poured into the trench, each of the layers can reach a thickness of 100 mm. But, since we did not need to pour a layer of sand, only crushed stone was covered.
4. Formwork device. For the formwork, a board 50 × 150 mm and reinforcement 700 mm long and 14 mm in section were used. The reinforcement is vertically driven into the ground every 2-3 meters along the perimeter of the dug trench, then boards are installed along the edges. From above we nail a picket fence (bar) with a size of 25 × 40 mm and a length of 400-450 mm. The distance between the bars is 1-1.5 m. After the formwork is installed, we level with a geodetic device - a level on the picket fence, set the "beacons" in the corners, using nails for this.
5. Laying reinforcement. It is necessary to lay reinforcement with a section of 12-14 mm in the trench, 2 pieces on each side. The length of the reinforcement is calculated as follows: 0.04 m should remain on each side, if the length of the wall is, for example, 6 m, then the length of the reinforcement is 5.92 m.
you need to install the fittings with an angle grinder (grinder), therefore, in the absence of electricity, you need to take care of this in advance. Since we had a part of the strip foundation filled in, along the edges of which reinforcing outlets were left, the reinforcement was overlapped with steel knitting wire. We put a broken brick under the reinforcement, the quantity can be any, the main thing is that the reinforcement does not sag. You can, of course, perform longitudinal and transverse reinforcement, but it is usually performed when building foundations for heavier structures. For light one-story bath from a bar there is no need to carry out this kind of reinforcement, there will simply be an extra metal consumption.
6. Preparation of concrete solution and its laying. The concrete mixture can be prepared mechanically, using a concrete mixer, or manually, mixing the composition in an iron container suitable for this purpose. In our case, a manual method was used, using a “solution jar” with a capacity of 0.13 cubic meters.

The composition of the concrete solution may be different. It depends on several factors: on the brand of cement and the desired grade of concrete, on the additives used and their characteristics, on the requirements for mortar mobility, etc.

The commonly used ratio of crushed stone, sand and cement is 5:3:1, the water-cement ratio (W/C) is 0.5. It must be taken into account that the composition of concrete is calculated for dry materials. The same sand in its normal state has a moisture content of 5%, and if it gets wet with rain, then it will be about 10%.

The composition of the concrete mix per 1 cu. m.

medium crushed stone (fraction 20-40 mm) - 1900 kg.
clean sand (vl.5%) - 1140 kg.
portland cement PC 500 - 380 kg.
water (from a well or tap) ~ 172 liters.

The required amount of concrete mix can be easily calculated based on the dimensions of the future strip foundation. In our case: height - 0.3 m, width - 0.3 m, length - 19 m (6+2+2+6+3). Therefore, we need V = 0.3 × 0.3 × 19 = 1.71 cubic meters.

In our case construction works were carried out when the air temperature at night dropped to minus 5 ° C, therefore, the anti-frost plasticizing additive "Benotech PMP - 1" was additionally used, which is sold in liquid form. At temperatures from 0 to -5 ° C, it is necessary to add 1% of the additive by weight of cement to the concrete mix. The amount is calculated based on the mass of dry matter, which contains approximately 453.4 g per liter of the additive. At 380 kg. Portland cement needs 8.38 liters. additives.

You can use another additive that accelerates the hardening of the concrete mix and has antifreeze properties.

If it is possible to connect to the mains, concrete structure can be heated using heating formwork, which uses heating cables, heating elements, mesh heaters and other heating elements. In addition, the concrete mixture can be heated to a temperature of 40-60 °C before laying.

Technology for the preparation of concrete mix for strip foundation

The required amount of sand is poured into the container, a recess is made in it and cement is poured, everything is thoroughly mixed with a shovel. Crushed stone is added to this mixture and mixed well again. Then water is gradually added, preferably from a watering can, so as not to wash out the sand particles with a strong jet.

On the garden plot, there may not be containers at hand to accurately calculate the required amount of material, so buckets are often used for these purposes.

Amount of material in one bucket (10 l):

crushed stone - 15-17 kg
sand - 14-17 kg
cement - 13-15 kg

The amount of crushed stone depends on its fraction, the amount of sand - on humidity, and the amount of cement is affected by the density of its compaction during backfilling.

Concrete mortar laying

The finished solution is poured into the formwork, leveled, pierced with a probe or bayonet shovel (to remove excess air), tapped from the outside of the formwork with a wooden hammer.
If it is possible to connect to the mains, then a deep vibrator can be used to compact the concrete mix.
At negative temperatures, the strip foundation is covered from above with a film and a layer of sawdust or any insulation.
After three days, the formwork can be carefully removed.

7. Base device. After making sure that the concrete strip foundation is strong enough, you can proceed to the next stage - the construction of the basement.

For this we need the following materials

roofing material - 1 roll 15 × 1 m;
pipe (metal or plastic, section 32-57 mm), total length- 1500 mm;
masonry mesh 500 × 1500 mm - 24 pieces;
masonry mortar (cement-sand, 1:4);
full-bodied ceramic brick - 808 pcs.

Strip foundation - work procedure

1. A layer of roofing material (or other waterproofing material) is laid on the concrete foundation. Roofing material is easily cut with a knife into strips of the required width.
2. For brickwork, a single-row (chain) ligation method was used. A layer of masonry mortar is laid on top of the waterproofing material, then, across the longitudinal axis of the foundation, a brick is laid to form a bonded row of masonry. On top of the first row of bricks, lay the masonry mesh. The second row of masonry is spoon (along the axis).
3. The number of rows of masonry will depend on the desired height of the strip foundation for the bath. In our case, 4 rows of masonry were completed (see information on how to maintain brickwork).
4. The required number of bricks is calculated as follows: standard size one brick - 250 × 120 × 65 mm, plinth length - 35 m, two rows of masonry with a bonded side of 120 mm each, two rows of 250 mm each, seams - 10 mm. We make a simple calculation: 3500×2:13+3500×2:26=807.69. Therefore, we need approximately 808 bricks.
5. In the third row of masonry (poke) it is necessary to make ventilation ducts. To do this, we use scraps of metal or plastic pipe, which is mounted across the axis of the foundation in a horizontal position. The diameter of the pipe does not matter, we used the one that was available. For the entire foundation, 5 products were made.
6. On top of the third row of bricks, a row of masonry mesh is laid again, then the last row of bricks (spoon).
7. The final stage - the device cement screed from a thick solution 1:2-3. The recommended height of the cement screed is 20 mm.
8. We are waiting for the complete drying of the solution.

That's all, our strip foundation has been successfully made, and you can proceed to the next stage of building a bath.

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Advantages and disadvantages

Of course, ideal building materials do not exist. Therefore, brick, like any other material, has its advantages. Let's consider them below.

Durability. With proper installation and operation, such a building can be used for more than 100 years!
Environmental friendliness. Brick does not emit any chemicals when heated.
Fire safety. The probability of ignition of a brick bath is almost zero.
Design. Since the brick structure is very stable, it is possible to build a structure various forms and sizes, create an unusual, interesting layout, and so on. In addition, the brick itself, if external walls erect from decorative look looks quite attractive and solid.
The brick does not rot and is not susceptible to damage by fungus and other microorganisms.
Shrinkage period brick bath much less than that of a bath from wooden frame or a bar.

There are also a number of disadvantages.

High material cost. A very controversial opinion of most inexperienced craftsmen. In fact, the differences in price when building a bath of the same size and the same projects are minimal.
High heat capacity. To warm up a brick bath, it will take several times more time than to heat the same wooden bath.
High thermal conductivity. Brick conducts heat and cold well, but this problem is solved by high-quality vapor barrier.
Hygroscopicity. Brick walls are able to absorb moisture, which will inevitably lead to deformation and destruction of the walls. The problem can be solved by installing a layer of waterproofing.
Due to the low vapor conductivity, brick tends to change color and collapse. Save me from this good vapor barrier and ventilation.

Choosing a place and a brick for a bath

For the construction of a bath the best option it is considered to use white silicate or slightly less expensive red clay brick. Since this material is produced at high temperature, it becomes a monolithic, strong and reliable raw material. Precisely because of their specifications such a brick is also used in the construction of a stove-heater.

In addition to these two types, ceramic solid corrugated bricks of the M100 or M125 brand, solid smooth bricks M100 or M175 are used for the construction of bath walls. The dimensions of each are the same - 25x12x6.5 cm. The retail price varies from 10 to 15 rubles.

In addition to the main building material, you will need:

Waterproofing material (roll, bulk).
Vapor barrier material.
Metal fasteners (bolts, nails, screws, etc.).
Lumber for interior cladding and framing.
Roofing material.
Beams for the truss system.
Reinforcement for the foundation.
Sand.
Crushed stone or broken brick and other materials.

The most basic rule when choosing a place for construction is humidity. A brick bath should be built on a dry area. If there is a reservoir nearby, then the distance from it should exceed 30 meters.

If you plan to use firewood as fuel, the distance from neighboring buildings should be from 15 m, and if gas or electricity, then the distance can be safely reduced to 5–6 m. Also, to save money, you can attach a bathhouse to the main house, thereby facilitating wiring of all communications.

Of the tools you will need:

Trowel.
Shovel.
Concrete mixer.
Plumb.
Building level.
Plywood for formwork.
Square.
Roulette.
Pickaxe.
Wedges.
Stitching.
Cord mooring and other tools.

Design

First you need to draw up a project, a drawing of the future building. It is necessary to indicate all the features of the structure in it: from the appearance, the number of rooms and overall dimensions to the wiring diagram of all communications, the calculation of the required amount of materials and the weight distribution of the structure.

The simplest bath projects consist of one room, which is both a steam room, a washing room, and a dressing room. But this option is not always convenient, especially when several people use the bath. Therefore, in most projects it has in stock:

Steam room. Equipped as a sauna with dry steam or as a traditional Russian bath. During construction, taking into account safety rules, it is important to install the steam room door so that it opens outward.

Important! Experts do not recommend building a steam room with high ceilings, the height from floor to ceiling should not exceed 2.5 m, since additional financial resources, time and effort will have to be spent on construction,and it will take much longer to warm up to the desired temperature of such a room.

Rest room. You can sit there, chat and even have a bite to eat.
Dressing room or dressing room. If the bath area is limited, then here, in addition to wardrobes, you can install benches, armchairs or chairs, a table and even a sofa. Also in this room fuel and bath accessories are usually stored.
Washing (represented by a shower or pool).
Veranda.

For example, if a bathhouse is being built as an extension to the main residential building, the washing room may not be equipped, since the bathroom at home will play its role.

If you want to save money, on the Internet you can find ready-made projects of brick baths and detailed instructions for them.

Foundation

Having a ready-made project for the future bath in hand, you can proceed to the first stage of construction - the construction of the foundation. The base for a brick bath can be different. The choice of type depends on a large number of factors, among them: soil composition, climate, region, soil freezing level and depth groundwater and so on.

If it is planned to equip the pool in the washing room, then a separate foundation is needed for it, as, in fact, for the heater.

Since the brick structure is quite heavy, the foundation must be strong enough to support the weight of the bath for many decades. The most common is the strip foundation. It can be both shallow and deep, consisting of concrete blocks, bricks or cement mortar. Let us briefly consider the last option, since the technology of its construction is no different from the construction technology for any other building:

The first step is to clear the area from small debris, twigs, bushes, and so on.
After that, markup is carried out according to the project. Wooden pegs are installed in the corners and along the walls, a thread is pulled between them.
They dig a trench with a depth of 0.3–0.8 m and a width of 25–40 cm, depending on the thickness of the walls and their design. Please note that such a foundation should be located at least a meter above the groundwater level.
A layer (10–20 cm) of sand is poured to the bottom, moistened with water and compacted tightly.
The same layer of crushed stone or broken stone is laid on top of the sand, moistened, and carefully compacted.
A layer (sometimes several layers) of waterproofing material, such as roofing felt or geotextile, is placed on the resulting pillow.
Install formwork. It should rise above ground level by 30–60 cm.
A reinforced skeleton of metal rods with a diameter of 1.2–1.6 cm is mounted inside. The rows are connected to each other with a rigid wire.
In order for the base to come out even, without defects, there should be no chips or cracks on the sheets of plywood or OSB (if wooden formwork is being mounted). It is also worth pre-moistening the inner walls of the formwork or wrapping it in a layer of polyethylene.
Cement is poured inside the structure concrete mortar. You can buy it or prepare it yourself using finely sifted river or quarry sand, crushed stone of small fraction, cement powder and water.
The formwork is removed after 5-14 days, depending on the average daily temperature. The first few days, in order to prevent deformation, the base is watered 3-4 times a day. To protect the foundation from precipitation, a blind area is poured from greasy clay and rubble at a slight angle, 1 m wide, as shown in the diagram below.
Cement completely hardens and gains strength only after 28 days.

Important! Remember to leave 8-12 cm diameter ventilation holes in the foundation strip and build a separate foundation for the stove if you plan to use a heater.

On this stage it is necessary to provide water supply and sewerage wiring, electricity and gas can be installed without problems later.

Types and sequence of masonry walls

The construction of brick walls should begin after the waterproofing of the foundation. To do this, use roll materials such as roofing material, technoelast, glass isol or various bituminous and bitumen-polymer mastics. Most often, walls are erected using a single-row dressing system, since it is simple and can be installed alone without much difficulty. This design is a change of spoon and bonder rows of bricks. It is used when it is not planned to use the front layer of facing bricks.

For those who are not familiar with the technology of laying walls: a spoon row is a row of bricks that are laid with their side along the wall, and a bonded row is laid with short ends to the outside of the wall.

There are three main types of masonry brick walls:

Solid masonry, when the brick is laid in two rows without a gap between the rows.
masonry with ventilation gap 40–60 mm.
Lightweight laying. It consists of two walls, between which insulation is poured, whether it is expanded clay, fine slag or other analogues.

Most often, it is the third type of construction that is used, since it allows you to reduce pressure on the foundation and save on building materials, since bricks are quite expensive nowadays.

Solid masonry is no less popular, as it is more durable and reliable.

Regardless of the type of masonry chosen, they all start from the corners. First you need to lay out six rows of bricks on the mortar in the corners. A string must be drawn along each row. Nails are wrapped around them, which are inserted into the seams between the bricks at a distance of 3-4 mm from the vertical of the row. The cord helps to determine the evenness of the masonry. For this purpose, a building level and a plumb line are also used.

The basement of the bath, if necessary, should be laid out from solid brick, and the walls themselves are made of hollow.

When laying, it is important to work quickly so that the cement mortar does not have time to set. If construction work is carried out in summer time, the brick is pre-moistened with water. The thickness of the layer of such a solution should be 2–3 cm.

There are several variations of solid masonry, among them:

"single row"
"multi-row"

They differ in that with a single row there is a constant change of the tying and spoon rows, and with a multi-row masonry system, the tying rows go through 5–6 spoon rows.

When laying bonded rows, it is necessary to apply a mortar with an indent of 10 mm when filling the joints and 30-35 mm when laying a wasteland. If you have bricks with any defects lying around, do not rush to throw them away, it is better to use spoon rows for laying, in addition to corners and support zones.

Internal load-bearing walls must be at least 20 cm thick. Transverse walls usually consist of brick halves or quarters. If the length of such a wall exceeds 1.5 m, then they must be further strengthened with a reinforcement belt every three rows.

Door and window frames are mounted directly in the masonry process. In the side parts of the openings are installed wooden blocks brick thick. They are wrapped with a layer of roofing material and tarred.

It is also necessary to equip the ventilation holes. Typically, in such baths, a ventilation system of a supply and exhaust type is installed. It consists of two holes: one regulates the flow of air, the second - exhaust hole. The first is best placed under the bottom of the stove, and the second - as far as possible from the heater, 7–8 centimeters below the ceiling. You can also provide special dampers that will help regulate the air flow in the steam room.

Calculation of the number of bricks

Due to incorrect calculations, beginners often acquire one and a half times more material than they really need. To understand how much brick you need to buy, the area of \u200b\u200ball the walls is calculated separately, excluding the area of \u200b\u200bdoor and window openings. The number that turned out is multiplied by the thickness of the walls. When calculating, be sure to take into account the thickness of the bricks themselves and mortar joints between them.

To facilitate this process, you can use open access tables or special online services. If you decide to create an individual bath project, then it is better to contact the specialists - they will help to carry out all the necessary calculations.

Roof and floor for a brick bath

The roof structure can be any: one, two or more slopes. The more complex the roof structure and the greater the angle of inclination, the more expensive the installation of the roof will be. The sequence of work also depends on the choice of design.

Holes for special mounting pins are drilled in the upper rows of walls. Mauerlat and ceiling joists are mounted on top of them. In the case when the ends of the beams are in contact with brick walls, they are wrapped with roofing material. After installing the beams, the flooring is made of unedged boards. It is also necessary to provide a hole for the chimney.

In order for the ceiling logs to last longer, they must be additionally covered with a layer of waterproofing. For this purpose, you can use fabric absinthe, which is attached with construction staples. A layer of a mixture of clay and sawdust is poured on top in equal proportions. As soon as the mixture dries, it is sprinkled with sand. The place where the chimney will be in contact with the ceiling must be additionally insulated and metal sheets should be installed there.

After that, the truss system is assembled. Rafter legs are attached to the Mauerlat using metal corners and self-tapping screws. Additional supports are installed between the slopes (struts, beds, puffs, and so on) if the roof has two or more slopes. A crate of small slats is mounted on top of the beams, covered with waterproofing and roofing material, whether it be corrugated board, metal tiles or other modern analogues, if necessary, a counter-lattice is made.

At this stage, floor logs are mounted (using beams with a section of 15x10, 25x10) directly to the bottom of the brick walls using the same metal corners. To each log, on its two sides, cranial bars are nailed, which will become a support for the subfloor. Attached over the bars unedged board, then comes a layer of waterproofing, insulation and another layer of waterproofing. Finished floor installed.

finish line

The last step in the construction of a brick bath with your own hands is the insulation and waterproofing of the walls from the inside and, if necessary, facade cladding, installation of shelves, stoves, furniture, connecting water supply and sewerage, installing a shower stall, doors and windows, if they have not been installed earlier, wiring electricity, decorative trim and other small jobs.

You can build a brick bath with your own hands using the information presented in this article. If you carried out all the construction work correctly, adhered to all the norms, tips and recommendations, then such a steam room will serve you for many years.

project-banya.ru

Types of plinth

According to the constructive types, they distinguish several types of plinth:

made flush with the wall;
protruding beyond the wall by how many centimeters;
with an overhanging wall above.

The choice of type depends on the further decoration of the walls. However, the last type of structures “cope” best with protecting the junction of the wall and the basement from precipitation.

How to make a plinth

If the basement of the foundation is constructed of concrete or reinforced concrete, the best and effective solution will fill in one move. The formation of any seams in the body of the foundation (and the base, as part of it) is fraught with a decrease bearing capacity, the formation of pores and cracks, the penetration of moisture and cold through these voids, the destruction of concrete during freezing and thawing. That is why the plinth should not have any vertical or horizontal seams. This is especially true for reinforced concrete, where the foundation contains a reinforcing cage. Violation of the integrity of the protective layer of concrete, designed to protect the metal from corrosion, leads to a decrease in the bearing capacity of the structure.

The best option for a bath is brick plinth. And not every brick will do. It is best to use red solid burnt bricks. It repels moisture well and also serves as an excellent waterproofing. In addition, he has a remarkable property to absorb heat and give it away for a long time. This property does not allow the first crown of the log house to rot!

At the stage of construction of the basement, ventilation holes should be provided. Two holes with dimensions 150x150 mm opposite sides the foundation for the bath will be quite enough. You may also need holes for water supply and sewerage in the above-ground part of the foundation - they also need to be provided in advance.

Waterproofing

Another important point technological requirements to the plinth - this is a horizontal and / or vertical waterproofing. It provides protection of the building from the penetration of ground moisture into the wall structures and the room.

For horizontal waterproofing usually use rolled roofing material, laying it on top of the base under the wall. In this case, the surface must be leveled with a cement-sand mortar screed so that the height differences do not exceed 5 mm. Then roofing material is glued onto hot bitumen.

Used for vertical waterproofing liquid rubber. It is applied by sprayer or manually - with a spatula, roller, brush, brush.

Both vertical and horizontal insulation is performed in two layers.

Warming

In order to avoid heat leakage from the room, it is required to protect the basement structure together with the foundation with some kind of insulation. The choice and depth of the insulation depends on the depth of soil freezing in a particular region. The wall is insulated from the outside, while rigid polystyrene foam or mineral wool is used, followed by layers of waterproofing and fiberglass reinforcement.

Alternative ways to build a base

Sometimes craftsmen use non-standard designs for the installation of a bath plinth, for example, from silicate brick, ordinary ordinary brick, wall stones, slate, etc. It is worth noting that any wall materials as basement materials are undesirable, since they are not designed for direct contact with the ground. Still, it is better to build structures in a single array with the base. If the foundation base is made in the form of piles, then it is preferable to make the above-ground part in the form of a monolithic reinforced concrete belt.

The first and last row of the red brick base must be placed in a poke, and all internal ones in a spoon. This will provide a good bond and give the necessary rigidity. If there are more than 10 bricks nearby, then on the 5th row it is also necessary to “plug” the base.

If the foundation ends at a level equal to the ground level, for the construction of the wooden walls of the bath, additional brickwork can be made as a plinth. It is better to use a silicate type brick, as it interacts well with a humid environment. It is necessary to raise the level by 500-600 mm from the ground (but not less than 250 mm). The thickness of such a wall will be equal to 400 mm for big bath and 250 mm for a one-room small building.

Be sure to make ventilation outlets. To do this, approximately in the middle part of the masonry, air is left in height. On top of the masonry, it is desirable to make a reinforcing belt of reinforcement and concrete. Waterproofing is laid under the brick and under the wall, since in this case we use three types of materials for the foundation, basement and walls.

plinth trim

External cladding will additionally protect the base and wall structures from moisture and temperature extremes. Cladding materials are used exclusively durable - moisture resistant and frost-resistant. These include facing decorative bricks, tiles, hinged plastic systems. The plinth, decorated with natural stone - limestone, sandstone, as well as artificial stones, looks very beautiful.

The basement of the foundation of a small bathhouse in a summer cottage can also be lined with various improvised materials, for example, fragments of ceramic tiles or glass, laying them out in the form of a mosaic.

P.S. Here is the plinth and now we are ready to choose a log cabin for a bath and EASY STEAM FOR YOU!

Easy steam for you!

beribanyu.ru

Material for the basement of the house

Now there are two opinions about the design of the basement, when the question arises what material to choose for the basement of the house:

the basement is made of concrete, as a continuation of the monolithic foundation
plinth laid out of brick

The laying of a brick base in the old days was not even discussed. The base should be brick and that's it. Even 10 years ago there was no such fashion to raise the foundation above 150mm above the ground.

If we compare concrete and brickwork, then in terms of thermal performance, no doubt, the brick base wins. Because, for a residential building, a brick plinth is laid out with a masonry thickness of 510-640 mm. Such a thickness of a brick wall does not require additional insulation in the snowy regions of Russia.

But, after all, in Lately the technology of warming concrete walls came into fashion. And this basement technology is now preferable in the construction of a capital residential building, because, simultaneously with the basement insulation, the blind area is horizontally insulated, which gives an advantage as a protective measure for foundations from freezing.

If you are not going to insulate the basement of the wall and the pavement of the house from the outside of the house, then without options, laying a brick base is suitable for you:

easier
warmer
cheaper
does not require additional finishing

But, this is a subjective opinion.

If it is easier for you to monolithic the base, then, of course, choose this option. Because in both cases, the bath is a structure that does not require a high underground. The maximum height of a socle for a bath is 300-400 mm.

And in the case of choosing a brick plinth for a bath, anyway, its thickness will be no more than 250 mm (brick), due to the fact that it is not required to make a wide foundation for a log cabin of 200-240 mm logs. And such a thickness of brickwork is not much warmer than a concrete wall. And during seasonal operation (in summer period) warm material for the plinth does not have of great importance at positive outside temperatures.

Do you need a brick base

We need a brick base - a question that every developer suffers from. You will find a partial answer in the previous section.

But, the base has another function - protective. As you know, the foundation, located in the ground, absorbs moisture. Especially if the concrete was prepared by hand, then its hygroscopicity leaves much to be desired. Therefore, it is always necessary to lay roofing material between concrete and basement brickwork as a waterproofing layer that will protect the brick from absorbing ground moisture.

So, it is necessary that the brickwork of the basement protrudes 20-50mm above the foundation. This is done to protect the foundation and the ingress of precipitation (rain, snow) onto the waterproofing layer.

For example, the width of the foundation is 300m. This means that the brickwork of the basement must be made 1.5 bricks wide (380 mm), It turns out 40 mm of overhang on each side of the foundation.

If the width of the foundation is 400m, then it is not at all economical to make a plinth 500mm wide (in 2 bricks). You can make it in 1.5 bricks (380mm) and move it 20mm to the outside.

You can also make a sinking version of the base, when the brickwork is done in the middle of the foundation tape. It turns out that the foundation will protrude by 20mm. In this case, the ingress of rain moisture on the waterproofing layer is inevitable. Water accumulation and subsequent absorption by the brick is possible. This can be avoided by protecting the brickwork and the foundation with cornice overhangs made of galvanized or painted steel.

The log house installed on the base will be protected from ground moisture by waterproofing layers in two places (1-between the foundation and the base, 2-between the base and the log house), which will increase the service life of the log house: as a rule, the lower crowns of the log house in 90% of cases rot from constant moisture from below.

Brick for plinth

The brick for the plinth must be solid clay. In no case should a hollow brick be used, even if it is of a high grade M200. Because when the temperature drops in the winter, when thawing and freezing in the voids of the brick, moisture will condense, which does not go anywhere, but is absorbed by the brick. Which, of course, will lead to the gradual destruction of the brick.

In accordance with the provisions of SNip 3.03.01-87 "Bearing and enclosing structures":

Brick brand for plinth

The brand of brick for the base must be at least M200 for brick house several floors and not lower than M150 for other lighter wall structures of 1 floor. Why? Because the basement is the most loaded structure after the foundation itself. The plinth will carry everything above it:

walls
overlap
roof
snow on the roof
furniture and people in the house

In accordance with SNiP II-22-81 "Stone and reinforced masonry structures":

M - strength and resistance to bending, compression
F - frost resistance (resistance against sudden temperature changes)

Calculation of bricks per base

The calculation of a brick for a plinth for its purchase and delivery is as follows:

first, the volume of brickwork is calculated. For this, we multiply the perimeter of the foundation by the width of the brickwork and its height. For example, the dimensions of the foundation are 4x3m. with a foundation width of 300mm. The perimeter is 14m. The masonry will be brick-width (250mm) and 4 rows high (70*4=280mm). We get the volume of future masonry equal to: 14m * 0.25m * 0.28m = 0.98 m3.
In 1 m3 of brickwork, the average brick consumption is 400 pieces. We multiply our masonry volume by 400pcs, we get: 0.98 m * 400pcs = 392pcs.

There are 300-330 pieces in a pallet (depending on the manufacturing plant). So you need to buy 2 pallets. With a margin. Brick will remain, but it is never superfluous during construction. You can, in the future, make a simple brick barbecue.

How to lay a brick base

before brickwork on the surface of the foundation, it is necessary to arrange a horizontal waterproofing layer of roofing felt to prevent moisture from penetrating from below. regulatory documents in construction, it should be from 2 layers of roofing material with sizing of each with mastic.
If the plinth structure is massive (in width and height), then along the waterproofing layer it is necessary to make a leveling screed from a cement-sand mortar 20 mm thick, on which a masonry mesh with 50x50 mm cells of 4 mm wire is laid. This reinforcing layer will give additional rigidity and strength to the base of the overlying brick base.
For a chopped bath, the above condition is not so important, because the log house is much lighter than the brick walls of the house and the bath does not require a high base.
The first row of brickwork must be bonded
it is necessary to carefully fill the horizontal and vertical joints with mortar, because with the penetration of moisture, the mortar in the joints will begin to break down over time.
if the base is high, then you need to reinforce the masonry every 3 or 5 rows. Or at least in the corners.
on top of the upper row of brickwork of the basement, horizontal waterproofing from roofing material is again performed.

Since the laying of a brick basement is that part of the walls that is especially susceptible to the influence of atmospheric influences (rain, snow, ground moisture) and works almost all the time in the humidity regime, it must be additionally protected for capital buildings. The best protection is natural stone cladding. Other options are possible: ceramic tiles, artificial stone, plaster).

banjstroi.ru

The positive aspects of this framework

The pile-screw foundation for a brick bath has a number of advantages. This type of foundation enjoys well-deserved popularity in suburban residential construction. Screw piles are not afraid of temperature changes and can be used on almost any soil.

Main positive features foundations on piles is considered:

After screwing in the screw piles, you do not need to wait, you can immediately proceed to the arrangement of the grillage and the construction of the bath.

What are screw piles

A screw pile is a type of support made of metal; during installation, it is immersed in the ground by screwing in, without first drilling a well. This product consists of several parts: blades for screwing in, the main trunk and the head. Visually, it looks like a large screw. This design allows the pile to be easily screwed into the ground, additionally compacting it and thus increasing the bearing capacity.

Factory screw piles are produced with a special protective coating, which includes bitumen, enamel, epoxy resin. A similar composition has an anti-corrosion coating of the underwater parts of marine vessels.

According to the calculated data and statistical information, when the pile is deepened to a level of 1.8 to 2 meters, its bearing capacity will be maximum.

Arrangement of a pile-screw base

The screw foundation for a bath is mounted on almost any bumps, on flooded parts of the site and even on well-groomed lawns, without causing damage and harm. If screw piles were chosen as the basis for the construction of a bathhouse on a habitable site, there is no need to destroy the relief or landscape.

The initial stage of any construction is preparatory work. They play an important role and will help to avoid rework and additional costs further.

Having determined the place for the construction of the bath, it is necessary to clear it of household or construction debris, as well as remove any foreign objects or objects. If there are pits or trenches at the construction site, they must be filled in and carefully compacted.

Marking the locations of piles

During the development of a foundation project with screw piles, the number of piles is preliminarily calculated based on the size, distances between piles, as well as the type relative position. Knowing all these indicators, the pile field is marked, according to the developed project.

Screw piles for the base of the bath must be immersed in dense layers of soil. To accurately determine the depth of immersion, where the soil layer has the maximum bearing capacity, it is necessary to perform a geodetic study. Not superfluous in the calculations will be amendments to the total weight of the building, weather terrain and seasonal soil fluctuations. For this, it is better to hire a specialist.

Pile supports must be evenly distributed under all external and internal walls of the bath, additionally strengthening the corners and intersections of the walls, and immersed to the estimated depth. The twisted piles are cut, leveled and the head is welded on top.

The part of the pile protruding from the ground can be hidden under a decorative plinth or left open. In any case, it is necessary to treat the visible part with an anti-corrosion compound.

Construction of the foundation for the furnace

Any bath, especially Russian, has a stove. So that during operation the masonry is not damaged or collapsed, you need a foundation for a brick oven.

The arrangement of the furnace base is a necessary condition for the correct construction and further functioning of this structure, since it transfers all existing loads to the soil. In preparation for the construction of the furnace foundation, you need to study the basic requirements for this type of foundation. This will allow you to build a reliable and practical design, as well as protect against common mistakes.

The foundation for the furnace in the bath can be located relative to the ground level in different ways. Depending on this, two types can be distinguished:

elevated - recommended for arranging stoves on the attic floor;
underground - is the basis for the construction of the furnace on the first or basement floor.

Basic rules for building a base for a furnace

When arranging such a foundation, it is necessary to take into account the weight of the structure. If it is not more than 700 kg, and construction is planned on the ground floor or in the basement, it is enough to equip a simple reinforced concrete foundation in the form of a reinforced slab with buried pillars. Exceeding the mass of the structure of 700 kg is already a reason to build a foundation for a furnace on screw piles. This option is considered more reliable and can withstand additional loads.

The furnace base is designed for the load from the furnace only. It is not recommended to connect it to the common foundation of the bath. It is necessary to leave a gap of at least 5 cm and fill it with sand or lay damping material.

A special approach will require the foundation for a brick oven. Even the slightest deviations or deformations are unacceptable for him. Otherwise, cracks may appear in the masonry, which can lead to improper operation of the furnace or its partial destruction during operation.

All the parameters necessary for calculations are the same as for conventional foundations:

bearing capacity of the soil;
ground water level;
heaving of the soil.

The process of erecting a pile-screw foundation begins with marking the place. After that, it is necessary to screw the piles to the estimated depth, cut them to the same level and weld the heads. Screw piles will perform the main function of transferring the load to the ground. The size of the base and the number of piles is calculated based on the mass and dimensions of the furnace.

After that, it is necessary to pour a reinforced slab with a thickness of about 15 cm, which will combine single piles into a single structure. When the concrete hardens, it is necessary to waterproof the base with roofing material or bitumen.

It is better to make from solid red brick

The basement is the elevated part of the house above the foundation. Its upper mark is usually the mark of the floor of the 1st floor. It turns out that the basement is part of the wall of the house, which encloses the underground space.

Underground, basement or technical floor can be cold or warm. For the so-called warm underground, it is necessary to additionally insulate the basement. But, in this article we will consider a cold base, because for a simple, seasonal bath or a house on cottage, warm underground is not necessary.

Material for the basement of the house

Now there are two opinions about the design of the basement, when the question arises what material to choose for the basement of the house:

the basement is made of concrete, as a continuation of the monolithic foundation
plinth laid out of brick

But, in recent years, the technology of insulating concrete walls has come into fashion. And this basement technology is now preferable in the construction of a capital residential building, because, simultaneously with the basement insulation, the blind area is horizontally insulated, which gives an advantage as a protective measure for foundations from freezing.

If you are not going to insulate the basement of the wall and the pavement of the house from the outside of the house, then without options, laying a brick base is suitable for you:

easier
warmer
cheaper
does not require additional finishing

But, this is a subjective opinion.

And in the case of choosing a brick plinth for a bath, anyway, its thickness will be no more than 250 mm (brick), due to the fact that it is not required to make a wide foundation for a log cabin of 200-240 mm logs. And such a thickness of brickwork is not much warmer than a concrete wall. And during seasonal operation (in summer), warm material for the base is not of great importance at positive outdoor temperatures.

Do you need a brick base

We need a brick base - a question that every developer suffers from. You will find a partial answer in the previous section.

For example, the width of the foundation is 300m. This means that the brickwork of the basement must be made 1.5 bricks wide (380 mm), It turns out 40 mm of overhang on each side of the foundation.

If the width of the foundation is 400m, then it is not at all economical to make a plinth 500mm wide (in 2 bricks). You can make it in 1.5 bricks (380mm) and move it 20mm to the outside.

Brick for plinth

In accordance with the provisions of SNip 3.03.01-87 "Bearing and enclosing structures":

7.3. masonry brick plinths buildings must be made of solid ceramic bricks. The use of silicate bricks for these purposes is not allowed.

Brick brand for plinth

The grade of brick for the basement must be at least M200 for a brick house of several floors and at least M150 for other lighter wall structures of 1 floor. Why? Because the basement is the most loaded structure after the foundation itself. The plinth will carry everything above it:

walls
overlap
roof
snow on the roof
furniture and people in the house

In accordance with SNiP II-22-81 "Stone and reinforced masonry structures":

1.3. Application of silicate bricks, stones and blocks; stones and blocks from cellular concrete; hollow brick and ceramic stones; clay brick semi-dry pressing is allowed for the outer walls of rooms with a wet regime, provided that a vapor barrier coating is applied to their inner surfaces. The use of these materials for the walls of rooms with a wet regime, as well as for the outer walls of basements and plinths, is not allowed.

M - strength and resistance to bending, compression
F - frost resistance (resistance against sudden temperature changes)

Calculation of bricks per base

The calculation of a brick for a plinth for its purchase and delivery is as follows:

first, the volume of brickwork is calculated. For this, we multiply the perimeter of the foundation by the width of the brickwork and its height. For example, the dimensions of the foundation are 4x3m. with a foundation width of 300mm. The perimeter is 14m. The masonry will be brick-width (250mm) and 4 rows high (70*4=280mm). We get the volume of future masonry equal to: 14m * 0.25m * 0.28m = 0.98 m3.
In 1 m3 of brickwork, the average brick consumption is 400 pieces. We multiply our masonry volume by 400pcs, we get: 0.98 m * 400pcs = 392pcs.

It is necessary to lay a brick base on a waterproofing layer of roofing material

before brickwork on the surface of the foundation, it is necessary to arrange a horizontal waterproofing layer of roofing material to prevent moisture from penetrating from below. According to regulatory documents in construction, it should be made of 2 layers of roofing material with sizing each with mastic.
If the plinth structure is massive (in width and height), then along the waterproofing layer it is necessary to make a leveling screed from a cement-sand mortar 20 mm thick, on which a masonry mesh with 50x50 mm cells of 4 mm wire is laid. This reinforcing layer will give additional rigidity and strength to the base of the overlying brick base.
For a chopped bath, the above condition is not so important, because the log house is much lighter than the brick walls of the house and the bath does not require a high base.
The first row of brickwork must be bonded
it is necessary to carefully fill the horizontal and vertical joints with mortar, because with the penetration of moisture, the mortar in the joints will begin to break down over time.
if the base is high, then you need to reinforce the masonry every 3 or 5 rows. Or at least in the corners.
on top of the upper row of brickwork of the basement, horizontal waterproofing from roofing material is again performed.

A bath, like any capital structure, needs a solid foundation.

There are no fundamental differences in the design of its foundation compared to the foundation of a residential building.

If the thermal insulation of walls, ceiling and their protection from moisture in the washing department and steam room require special measures, then the base for the bath can be chosen completely freely.

When deciding which foundation is better for a bath, you need to focus on the material used to build the walls, take into account the soil conditions and your financial capabilities.

If the walls will be built of brick or lightweight concrete blocks (foam or aerated concrete), the foundation for them must be strong and stable. For bricks, strength is especially important (high weight of the wall), and for light blocks, the geometric stability of the foundation.

The reason is that the gas blocks popular today are very fragile, so any sedimentation of the soil can lead to cracking of the masonry. Therefore, a lightweight wall of blocks from above is always “tied up” reinforced belt from concrete. The armopoyas takes on part of the deformation stresses, thereby protecting the aerated concrete from destruction.

The choice of the foundation for the bath

Under a brick, a strip foundation is best suited from monolithic concrete or rubble concrete masonry. The latter option is more economical, since concrete is not required for its construction. It is replaced by a strong mortar of brand 200, which is poured in layers of rubble stone.

A prerequisite for the reliability of such a foundation is the reinforcement of the sole. To do this, in the lower part of the foundation, stepping back from the sole by 5-7 cm, reinforcing bars with a diameter of 16-20 mm are laid. Between themselves, they are fastened with knitting wire or short reinforcing clamps by electric welding.

Faster than a monolithic, a strip foundation is built from blocks requiring less labor. However, in terms of 1 m3, this version of the foundation for a bath will be 20-30% more expensive. The reasons are the higher (in comparison with rubble concrete) cost of foundation blocks and the need to use a crane for installation.

Speaking about the depth of the foundation, one must proceed from the weight of the walls and the properties of the material. Brick is heavy and fragile, therefore, when building on clay and watered soils, it needs a deep foundation (below the freezing mark). This value can be found in the SNiP for foundations and foundations.

Remember that you will not be able to properly fill the foundation under the bath if its sole is above the freezing depth. Winter heaving of the soil will deform the foundation, and with it the load-bearing walls will begin to crack.

If the bath is built using frame technology or using a log cabin, then the depth of the foundation can be reduced. Wood is an elastic material and therefore easily tolerates small ups and downs of the soil.

Bay under the bath concrete foundation in the form of a solid slab 6x4 meters in size (you will have to do this on swampy soil), you don’t have to worry about the walls. The plate exerts minimal pressure on the ground, so the backlash forces do not reach a critical level.

For wooden bath you can choose a columnar foundation, which is cheaper than tape and less labor-intensive. The principle of its construction is simple: in the corners of the future building and in the center of the walls, pits are dug under the supporting pillars. The material for them can be rubble concrete, red clay brick (iron ore), cinder blocks or asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 200 mm.

If you have a hand drill of a suitable diameter, then asbestos-cement pipes can be used for the foundation. They are cut into pieces and lowered into the well. Before that, do not forget to pour a sand cushion 15-20 cm thick into it and compact the sand by pouring water. After that, 4 reinforcing bars (12-16 mm) must be installed in the pipe, which will serve as connections for the concrete grillage, and pour the concrete mixture.

It is not necessary to fill tubular columns in one go, but in layers (30-40 cm). Each layer is compacted by tamping or vibrating. For vibroconsolidation of concrete, you can use a conventional hammer drill, turning it on in impact mode and resting it on a reinforcing bar. The columnar foundation is deepened, as well as the tape one, below the freezing mark of the soil.

If it is planned to lay a wooden support beam under the frame walls on top of the pillars, then it is enough to concrete one reinforcing bar into the pipe. At its end there should be a thread for a nut that will fix the beam. Some craftsmen use ordinary roofing material instead of asbestos-cement pipes. A pipe of the desired diameter is made from it by hand, twisting the waterproofing in two layers and wrapping it with tape.

Reduce volume earthworks It is possible using a columnar-tape foundation structure. She is not afraid of seasonal ground movements, so the bath will stand securely on such a basis.

A good foundation option is a foundation on screw piles., which can be erected in a few days. Piles after twisting into the ground are filled with concrete.

Before erecting a monolithic reinforced concrete grillage, reinforcing bars are placed in the pile shafts to connect with it. If, however, a crown of a log house or a load-bearing beam of a wooden frame is laid on top, a steel head with a support platform is welded onto the pile.

There are several rules that must be observed when working with screw piles:

After deepening, they cannot be unscrewed. Some developers use this method to align the screw piles under the grillage. Later, under load, the foundation subsides. Alignment is allowed only by cutting the piles according to the level.
You can qualitatively make a foundation for a bath with your own hands from screw piles only if there are not a lot of stones in the ground. Otherwise, they will not be able to deepen to the desired mark.
On weak soil, the pile must be screwed to a dense layer, deepening into it by 60-80 cm.
The pile must be twisted strictly vertically (controlled by a plumb line or a special level).
The bearing capacity of one screw pile, twisted into the ground to a depth of 1.5-2 meters, is several tons. Therefore, for a frame bath or a wooden frame measuring 6x6 meters, it will be enough to put 8 piles with a diameter of 100 mm along the contour of the walls. Another one will have to be installed under the load-bearing partitions.

Simultaneously with the base of the bath, you need to make a foundation for the stove not to return to concrete work. It does not need to be tied with the main grillage, since the difference in the sediments of the two foundations can lead to the tilt of the furnace.

The lower part of the furnace foundation is formed by a sand cushion compacted with a rammer. It plays the role of a buffer that dampens ground vibrations. A layer of broken brick and stone 20 cm thick is poured on it. Then a leveling layer of crushed stone 10 cm thick is laid. A concrete slab is poured above the ground mark (it is possible not to reinforce) 15-30 cm thick.

Such a powerful foundation is needed only for a heavy brick sauna stove. For modern light steel stoves, a flat and durable surface will suffice. It can be done by baying on a sand cushion concrete screed 10-15 cm thick.

If the bath will stand on piles, then a light stove-heater can be placed directly on the floor in the place where bearing beam support frame. Before this, it is necessary to perform high-quality thermal insulation of the base, using for this steel sheet on a heat-insulating basis of clay or asbestos.

Foundation for a bath - types and device, how to do it yourself

Types of foundations for a bath and their device, features of building foundations with your own hands.

Selection and arrangement of the foundation for the bath

When choosing a place to build a foundation for a bath, you should pay attention to a number of factors. The best place to build would be some kind of hill to make it easier to organize the drainage of water. If there is a reservoir near the hill, then this is an ideal option, if not, you can organize an artificial reservoir or build a pool nearby. It would be optimal to locate the entrance to the bath in such a way that it can be seen from the house, since while the stove is melting, you can safely go about your business and watch the children playing near the pool or pond.

Scheme-project of a bath with a terrace.

Of great importance is the location of the bath on the site. The best option in terms fire safety- a separate building on the outskirts of the site. If the size of the land allotment does not allow building a building separately, then you can attach a bathhouse to the house.

When building an extension, special attention should be paid to waterproofing and fire safety.

Regulations to be observed

Considerable importance when choosing a place for the foundation is played by neighbors in the area. There are special sanitary standards (SNIP) that regulate the distance from the bath building to neighboring areas, to other buildings and to the well. Just in case, the following paragraphs of SNIP 30-02-92 must always be at hand in printed form:

Clause 6.7. According to sanitary conditions, the minimum distance to the border with neighbors should be:

Scheme of marking the site for the foundation.

The above paragraphs of SNIP must be observed both between buildings on the same site, and between adjacent allotments. When choosing a place for the foundation for a bath, you should carefully observe the SNIP in order to avoid problems in the future. If the norms are met, then the neighbors will never be able to make claims against the buildings located on the neighboring site.

Purpose and types of foundation

Scheme of occurrence of underground waters.

The functional purpose of the foundation is to ensure the distribution of the vertical load from the building onto solid soil layers. An ideal force belt should almost completely compensate for structural changes in the soil. If the soil analysis before the start of construction was done in bad faith, then after the first winter, the foundation device will undergo changes due to cracks, the walls of the bathhouse or house will deform.

When creating a foundation project for a sauna, it is worth considering the following factors:

groundwater and the level of their occurrence;
the depth of soil freezing in the cold season;
soil heaving

Heaving soils are not difficult to recognize by external manifestations: a large number of cracks in asphalt road and old buildings. Due to the uneven amount of moisture absorbed by the soil, alternating loads occur during thawing and freezing of the soil. As a result, the foundation structure rises in winter, and sags in places in summer. To level such loads at the laying stage, gravel or sand should be used instead of pliable soil, which must be treated with water to increase resistance. There are several types of foundation for a bath - columnar, tape, simplified and screw (pile).

Column Foundation

Scheme of the columnar foundation.

For light loads (for wooden baths) the foundation device is made columnar. The pillars are erected with a size of 0.51 x 0.51 m of brick or stone, the location of the pillars is determined by the location of the corners of the structure and the junction of the outer walls with the inner ones.

If the size of the bath is large, then not only the main pillars are placed, but also intermediate ones, and so that the distance between the supports is no more than 2 m. To save time, you can use ready-made asbestos concrete and concrete pipes into which concrete is poured. It is also possible to use wooden poles, but they do not last long. The maximum period of their operation is 12 years (material - oak).

The walls between the pillars are built of red clay bricks, or gravel, broken bricks, adobe, slate are used to create bulk walls. For laying out pillars and walls, white silicate bricks cannot be used. If the depth of laying the reinforcement is large, a sand and gravel cushion is added.

Strip foundation device

The scheme of the prefabricated strip foundation.

The device of the strip foundation is quite simple, and the design is durable and very reliable. To create this type of foundation, a trench is dug, filled with a layer of sand of 15-20 cm, the sand is poured with water and compacted. Next, a layer of crushed stone of the same thickness is added, followed by reinforcement, and concrete is poured.

A layer of waterproofing is mounted on top of the concrete and a plinth is laid out of brick (4-5 rows). Must be done in brickwork, in the second or third row, holes for ventilation.

Another option for a strip foundation for a bath is the use of concrete or reinforced concrete blocks of a trapezoid or rectangular shape, which are laid on a sand cushion 15 cm thick. The strip foundation is laid with a width of 25 to 50 cm, depending on the size and design of the building. The use of a strip foundation is highly discouraged on unstable soils. In such cases, it is better to use a columnar foundation.

Simplified foundation for a bath

If the soil is dry, dense and homogeneous, then as a foundation can be used flat stones. Bath bars are laid on them, pre-treated with hot bitumen and an antiseptic. Stones are placed in places where the corners of the bath will be, as well as at the junction of the outer and internal walls. Between the stones, a free space of about 1 m is left, which must later be filled with clay. You can also lay out a solid stone tape and cover it with waterproofing on top.

Pile or screw foundation

The device of screw or pile reinforcement resembles a columnar foundation, only instead of brick pillars concrete or metal piles are used. This method of building a foundation for a bath is optimal for heaving, complex soils and installation of structures on slopes. The disadvantage of this type of amplification is its high cost.

Of course, the choice of the type of foundation for a bathhouse always depends on financial capabilities, but, saving on construction and materials, you should not forget about the features of the soil so that you do not have to rebuild again in the future. The first thing to do before ordering a reinforcement project is to carry out a complete soil analysis.

Foundation device for a bath: types of construction

The construction of a foundation for a bath directly depends on the results of a soil analysis, and not on financial capabilities. There are 4 types of foundation, each has its own

Bath with your own hands. Bath foundation

In this article of the DIY Bath cycle, we will look at how to make a foundation for a bath with our own hands.

The beginning of construction, like any real estate object, begins with the construction of the foundation of the bath. The optimal foundation for a bath can be of two types - tape or columnar.

Choosing the type of bath foundation

Banded or columnar?

The choice of the type of foundation depends on several factors:

- on the type of soil on the site;

- from the material for the construction of the bath.

Type of soil on the site for the construction of a bath

Checking the soil structure at the construction site of the bath is very simple:

if you built a house on your site yourself, laid the foundation yourself, then you already know the structure of the soil.

But, it often happens that the soil can have a different structure on one land plot so whats the best once again double check, it does not require any material costs:

it is necessary to dig a hole in the ground, at the place where the construction of the bath is planned;

the pit can be of various depths, it depends on the level of groundwater in your area (from 0.5 to 1.5 m).

After digging a hole, you can see the composition of the soil:

if the soil at the construction site of the bath consists of garden soil, forest land or liquefied (marsh) land, then in this case it is best to build a monolithic strip foundation on a sand cushion;

if the composition of the soil includes coarse sand, fine gravel, clay or loam, then such soils are considered to be of satisfactory quality and suitable for both strip and column foundations;

if the soil consists of compacted fine-grained sand, quartz or rocky rocks, then such soil is ideal for the construction of foundations of any kind.

Building materials for the construction of a bath

if the construction of a bath is planned from piece materials - brick, blocks, then in this case a strip foundation is necessary;

for the construction of a bath from a bar or logs, a columnar foundation is quite suitable.

Pillars for columnar foundation

Note: for the construction of my bath, I chose - a columnar foundation. The composition of the soil in my area has a homogeneous structure - coarse-grained sandstone, closer to the depth of groundwater from the soil surface is more than 1 m, and the freezing depth is approximately 60-70 cm, no more. Ideal option for the construction of a columnar foundation with a depth of pillars up to 1 m.

Bath foundation

So, let's consider how to make a columnar foundation for a bath from asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 200 mm.

As is known from construction practice, the foundation pillars must be placed at each corner of the log cabin of the bath, as well as at a distance of no more than 1.5 m from each other under the bearing walls and capital partitions that will be made inside the bath.

Let's look at the layout of the foundation pillars for a bath from a log house 4x4 m. Scheme:

Layout of pillars for a wooden log house 4x4 m

Pit drilled for the installation of poles

Scheme of drilling a hole for a pillar when constructing a columnar foundation for a bath

To install columnar supports with a diameter of 200 mm, it is necessary to dig or drill holes with a depth below the level of soil freezing, with a diameter of 250 mm;
Pour sand into the prepared pit, for a pillow 20 cm thick, spill it with water and tamp;

cut asbestos pipe the right sizes using a grinder (in this case, the length of the pipes must be at least 140 cm, 100 cm - pipe penetration and 40 cm pipe elevation above the ground);

Before installing the pipe in the pit, it must be wrapped with a layer of roofing material (you can simply wrap it with an overlap), to isolate the pipe from various factors that can have a negative effect on its outer surface - this is water, as well as possible ground movements;

Fixing an asbestos-cement pipe with crushed stone in a well of a columnar foundation

Having installed the pipe in the pit, sprinkle it along the edges with fine gravel by about 40-50 cm in order to give the pipe stability and pour the prepared concrete mortar into the pipe to a column height of not more than 50 cm;

Scheme of concreting an asbestos-cement support for a pole

After that, raise the pipe so that the concrete spreads along the bottom of the pit, thereby obtaining a solid concrete base, after which the pipe must be slightly pressed into the spread concrete;
Insert one or two bars of reinforcement into the pipe and fill the space between the pipe and the walls of the pit with fine gravel, such a backfill of fine gravel will protect the columnar support of the foundation from being affected by seasonal soil movements;

Fill the pipe completely with concrete and tamp (you can trim the reinforcement - this will remove air from the concrete, which will increase its strength).

Bath plinth

Between the pipes it is necessary to make a base to protect the subfloor of the bath from the ingress of snow, moisture, debris, as well as from the penetration of cold air into winter time. In the basement, it is necessary to make at least two vents, placing them on opposite sides of the foundation.

There are many ways to build a plinth from various materials - from bricks, blocks, it can also be sheathed with wood or made from flat asbestos-cement sheets.

The article will discuss how to make a bath basement from flat asbestos-cement slate.

Flat slate plinth device

Flat asbestos-cement slate

Calculation of the amount of slate for the basement device

The total length of the sides of the foundation is 16m, since a double-walled plinth device is assumed, which means that the total length will be - 16mx2 \u003d 32 m, the height of the plinth is 40 cm;

Taking into account the fact that the sheet is buried in concrete by 10 cm, it means that it is necessary to cut off a strip 50 cm wide from the sheet, 3 strips of 50 cm each come out of the sheet (because the sheet has a width of 1500 mm = 150 cm);
Divide the total length of the base (32 m) by the length of one strip (3000 mm = 3 m): 32: 3 = 10.67 strips (round up to 11 pieces of strips); Cost of 4 sheets flat slate will be $58.
For a flat slate plinth, a concrete jumper can be made as follows:

Concrete lintel for flat slate plinth
- Sheets of flat slate (3000x1500x6 mm) must be cut in length into three parts of 50 cm using an electric jigsaw;
The device of a concrete jumper for a slate basement between the foundation pillars

Note: The construction of a basement from any materials begins with the fact that it is necessary to make a concrete jumper between the pillars.

Ventilation holes underfloor for slate plinth
- Between the pillars, dig a trench 27-30 cm deep along the entire perimeter, the width of the trench should be 8-10 cm wider than the pillars on each side;
- Pour crushed stone at the bottom of the trench and compact it, the layer thickness is about 15 cm;
- Fill the trench with concrete and install sheets of flat slate into it so that they fit snugly against the foundation pillars, deepen the sheets into concrete so that their upper edge is flush with the height of the foundation pillar;
Schematic fastening of slate to foundation supports
- In the sheets of flat slate, in the places where the vents are installed, holes of the required diameter must be made in advance, into which an asbestos-cement pipe will then be installed (the pipe diameter is 150 mm, which means that it is desirable to make a hole diameter of 155 mm);
- You can fasten the sheets to the poles using self-tapping screws for metal, having previously drilled an unloading hole with a diameter two times smaller than the diameter of the screw thread on the self-tapping screw (such self-tapping screws are well screwed into asbestos-cement pipes and provide secure fastening sheets);
Unloading hole in the support and screwing in the self-tapping screw
- From above, you need to make a strapping from a 25 mm corner (on the inside and outside of the base), the corner can be connected by welding, and attached to the foundation pillar using self-tapping screws;
- At the corners, the joints of slate sheets can be covered with a corner made of roofing iron;
Covering the slate with a metal corner
- Between the sheets of flat slate, you need to lay a plastic film and fill the space between the sheets with expanded clay;
- Before filling expanded clay, it is necessary to insert a pipe into the hole in the base, the length of which can be equal to the width of the base and slightly longer (as shown in the figure), the main thing is that the outside of the pipe is flush with the surface of the base;
Vent hole in slate plinth
- Backfilling of expanded clay is carried out initially to the level of the pipe, pour a ten-centimeter layer of concrete on top of the pipe (for fixing), the concrete must hide the pipe completely, then you can continue to fill in expanded clay without waiting for the concrete to dry;
- It is not necessary to fill up the expanded clay to the full height, up to the upper edge of the basement it is necessary to leave a place for sealing the upper part with a cement-sand mortar, the thickness of the mortar is about 5 cm, the horizontalness of the foundation surface must be checked by level so that there are no distortions, which will further complicate the construction work bath house.
Sealing with sand-cement mortar the upper part of the plinth made of sheet slate for the purpose of insulation

The foundation for the stove in the bath

Now consider how to make a foundation for a stove in a bath. When the foundation for the bath is ready, you can begin to build the foundation for the stove.

Consider two options for the foundation:
- for a stove made of sheet steel (weight up to 150 kg);
- for a stove lined with bricks (weight from 480 kg).
If a metal stove is installed in the bath, then the foundation can be made as follows:

The beginning of the foundation for a metal stove for a bath
- We dig a pit in the ground up to a depth of 50 cm (the width and length of the pit depends on the parameters of the stove - take, for example, a stove 120 cm long and 50 cm wide);
- After digging a pit, it is necessary to fill in the crushed stone at the bottom and compact it well, the layer of compacted crushed stone should be at least 30 cm;
- From above, the compacted rubble must be poured with a cement mortar of medium consistency and left for a day so that the cement hardens;
Note: proportions cement-sand mixture- 1 part cement and 4 parts sand, water.

Foundation for a metal stove for a bath
- When the cement has hardened, we put one or two pieces of roofing material (waterproofing) on top of the crushed stone base, after which the pit must be filled with concrete;
Note: concrete mixture proportions - 1 part cement 2.5 parts sand and 4 parts fine gravel, water
- The surface of the base of the foundation must be checked for horizontality using the building level;
- To bring the base of the foundation to a clean floor, for this you can make masonry of red burnt bricks or foam concrete blocks, in the form of support pillars or solid masonry under the base of the furnace;
Red brickwork to raise the base to the level of the finished floor

Note: All sizes are approximate.

The appearance of the red brick sauna stove

Conditional size of the furnace: 125 cm wide and 150 cm long.

If a brick oven is installed in your bath, then in this case the foundation must be made more durable, in contrast to the foundation for a sheet steel oven.

For this you need:

Do-it-yourself foundation for a brick oven for a bath
- Dig a pit with a depth below the level of soil freezing (conditionally 70 cm), while the width of the pit should be 10 cm wider than the base of the foundation on each side, this is necessary in order to make a demarcation backfill between the soil and the foundation - in order to exclude possible impact soil movement on the base of the foundation;
- At the bottom of the pit, pour a layer of sand with a thickness of at least 15 cm and spill it with water, after the water has drained, add sand to required level and again pour water;
- After the water has drained a second time, pour broken bricks at the bottom of the pit, stone - a layer thickness of at least 20 cm and tamp, fill it with sand and spill it with water - we repeat this procedure three or four times until the sand stops settling;
- Pour coarse gravel on top of the sand, the layer thickness is 10 cm and tamp;
- Inside the pit, make a wooden formwork (for example, from boards knocked together from boards), so that between it and the sides of the pit there is a distance of at least 10 cm on each side and install a reinforcing cage inside the formwork;
Wooden formwork inside the foundation for a brick oven for a bath
- After the reinforced frame is installed, you can start laying concrete in the formwork (formwork height - 10-15 cm above the ground surface);
- When the foundation foundation is completed, it is necessary to dismantle the formwork, apply two layers of melted tar on the sides of the foundation, fill the space between the foundation and the edges of the pit with coarse sand or fine gravel.
And so, when the foundation for the bath and the stove is ready, you can proceed to the next stage of construction - to the construction of a log cabin from a bar.

Bath with your own hands

In this article of the DIY Bath cycle, we will look at how to make a foundation for a bath with our own hands. The beginning of construction, like any real estate object,

Types and devices of foundations for a bath by technology

The bath has always been famous for its effectiveness in the system of healing the body, so many summer residents are happy to build this facility on their site. The construction of a foundation for a bath requires special efforts and knowledge in construction technology. Particular attention during the construction of this object is given solid foundation, which will ensure a long service life, protect the wall structure from deformation.

In Rus', in ancient times, the base of the foundation was built from rubble stone, on which logs of strong oak were erected. Before starting construction, it is necessary to study the structure of the soil and its composition, the occurrence of groundwater and, accordingly, the depth of soil freezing.

Types of soil soils and technologies for installing foundations on them

Before erecting a bathhouse substring, we study and analyze the types of soils on which we are going to build a bathhouse. If the ground soil has a solid foundation, then there will be less cost to strengthen the foundation. If the soil is peat or sandy in composition, then the foundation must be reinforced with a concrete pad.

After studying the soil, the area for construction is marked. In order for the corner of the foundation to be even, for this, the structure of the Egyptian triangle is used in a ratio of 3x4x5, built from boards, wire and threads.

The foundation device with homogeneous soil is as follows:

First, rubble stone is laid in all corners of the building at a distance of no more than a meter and waterproofing material is covered over them along the entire perimeter of the trench.
Crowns and logs for the bath are installed, which are pre-treated with antiseptic agents. To protect the foundation from the external environment, it is best to use a blind area, the mixture for which is made from a clay-crushed stone mixture, laid out on a layer of gravel with sand.

If the soil under the base of the bath room turned out to be clayey, then the process of their deformation in winter and subsidence in summer should be prevented. To do this, we build protection, a layer of gravel and sand is lined in a dug trench, and waterproofing is laid on top of them.

Fire safety rules for the construction of a bath

When drawing up a project for the construction of a bath, it is necessary to take into account fire regulations:

Installation of the structure should be carried out at a distance of more than 4 meters from the buildings and structures of neighboring sites.
If there are other wooden structures on the site, then the distance of the bath from them should be - 12 m.

Fire safety rules should be immediately taken into account in the project, otherwise difficulties may arise with fire inspectors.

The main types of foundations for the construction of a bath structure

Many people ask themselves: what is the best foundation for a bath? To do this, we will study in detail the types of foundation structures:

Tape reproduction:

A trench is prepared, filled with sand and gravel (the filling layer is about 20 cm), a reinforcing tape is laid out on top (the width of the tape can reach 50 cm), which is then poured concrete mix. Concrete tape can be replaced with reinforced concrete blocks. For blocks, the solution will only be needed for bonding.
A waterproofing material is laid on top of the concrete tape, on which a basement row of bricks is laid (approximately 5 rows).

With a tape base, a blind area about 1 m wide and having a slope from the structure for draining rainwater is necessarily laid out.

Tape foundation for a bath

If the soil is not strong, then a columnar foundation is laid instead of a strip foundation, for this, pillars with a diameter of 51 cm, made of stone or durable brick, are used and are located at the corners of the building. With a large area of \u200b\u200bthe building, the pillars are divided into main (bearing) and intermediate, the distance between which should not exceed more than 2 meters. This type the foundation involves significant savings in money, since it is possible to use concrete or asbestos columnar structures or wooden ones (the maximum service life of an oak tree is not more than 12 years). Installation of walls with such a basis is made of red brick. You can not use silicate brick, as it absorbs a large amount of moisture.

For complex heaving soils, a pile foundation is required, which, according to the principle of installation, resembles a columnar one, but instead of brick pillars, either piles made of metal pipes or concrete are used. The pile foundation is usually used on swampy soils, the elements of the pillars in this case are made of steel and concrete with a reinforced structure, their height can reach about 5 m. This method of laying the foundation for a bath structure is expensive. Before installing the pile, a hole with a diameter of about 20-30 cm is drilled, into which a pipe is inserted and filled with concrete mortar.

Sometimes the piles are driven in, and sometimes they are screwed in. Pile columns are interconnected by a special overlap. It is impossible to pour concrete without pipe structures into the drilled holes, otherwise, as a result of freezing of the soil, the foundation may break. For the strength of the concrete solution, it is best to add well water. Concrete mortar can be made by hand. To do this, sand is taken, dry cement is added to it, everything is thoroughly mixed, after all gravel is added and mixed again, eventually water is poured in and the mixture is kneaded to obtain a homogeneous mass.

Pile foundation for a bath

If the laying of the foundation is carried out in winter, then water for the mixture is taken with a temperature of up to 50 °, in summer up to 15 °, this is necessary so that the concrete is strong. After three hours, the lined concrete solution is sprinkled with sawdust and filled with water. This procedure is performed about 3 times a week. To reduce the number of waterings, you can cover the foundation with a film and keep it in this state for about 28 days. Many builders recommend maintaining the foundation for about a year.

The most inexpensive technology for arranging the base for a bath room is a procedure using simplified (simple) masonry. A strip of natural stones is laid out at the base of the trench, where clay can serve as a connecting material, then the entire tape is covered with a waterproofing material, and only after that oak crowns of the structure are laid out on its base.

The solution for pouring the foundation under the bath with your own hands into a dense one depends on the level of the cement brand, as well as additional components. The best combination of mortar is a composition consisting of 5 parts of crushed stone, 1 part of cement, 0.5 of water and 3 parts of sand. When pouring the foundation in the cool season, a plasticizer should be added to the solution, due to which the solution will set faster and be more resistant to frosty weather.

The formwork for the trench is made of very thick and durable plywood or boards. If such materials are not available, then you can use the old slate for formwork.

The foundation device for a bath can be erected within one season, then best technology for the foundation will be screw. Such a design is assembled on any type of soil except stone. Buildings made on a screw base can last more than 100 years. The cost of construction costs is reduced by approximately 40%. The construction of the object itself can begin at any time of the year. Maximum length screws is about 11 m, which means that it can be erected on a hilly area.

Innovative technologies in the construction of a bath

Modern technologies for erecting the foundation for bath construction suggest using foam blocks as laying the foundation, the structure of their laying is close to tape technology, but is being built this technology quite fast and easy. Under the foam blocks, the trench digs not too deep within 50 cm. A reinforcing tape is installed between the layers of foam blocks, which is poured with concrete. This option is budgetary and can be erected independently, since the reinforcement is taken in a diameter of no more than 12 mm. and is connected with the help of a wire, and in terms of strength it is not inferior to a pile base.

To save the erected foundation, it is necessary to build protection. To do this, fit into the trench polyethylene film, on which a special mixture of used engine oil and grease is applied on top in a ratio of 1: 1

The secrets of the old masters for the construction of the bath base

In the old days, the foundation was made as follows:

The builders dug a hole, the depth of which reached 1 m.
The pit was filled with clay to the very foundation, grooves were made in the clay for water to drain and connected into one branch, which extended beyond the bath.
The crowns of the bath were laid directly on the clay mixture.

The advantages of such a bookmark are as follows:

the bath is very warm, without drafts;
clay is a natural antiseptic;
logs sunk in clay are used for a long period of time, so they are not subject to decay in this material.

The instructions for creating a bathhouse structure must be strictly observed, otherwise in the first period of time everything can fall apart and saving money and building materials will not work.

Foundation for a bath: types of soil and foundations, construction instructions, safety rules, secrets

It is desirable to build a bath on a stable foundation. This article will tell you how the foundation for the bath takes place.

Plinth - essential element in the construction of a bathhouse made of a log house, which serves as a barrier between the outer wall and the ground. Thanks to this, it protects the ground floor space from the penetration of cold, moisture and other adverse factors. Most often, the base is a protruding part of the foundation made of reinforced concrete or concrete. Due to the fact that in a moisture-saturated environment, concrete only increases its strength properties, but wall materials do not have such properties, it is advisable to raise the level of the first floor at least half a meter above the ground level. This is especially true for baths, the walls of which, in most cases, are built of wood material.

Types of plinth

Based design features plinth, there are several types:

plinth, flush with the wall;
a plinth protruding a few centimeters beyond the wall;
plinth with a wall hanging from above.

Choose a certain type of plinth, depending on the subsequent wall decoration. However, the last type of construction will be the best way to protect the junction of the basement and the wall from precipitation.

How to build a plinth

If the basement of the foundation is made of reinforced concrete or concrete, the most effective and best solution will be pouring in one move. The plinth must not have any horizontal or vertical seams. This is due to the fact that the formation of various seams in the body of the foundation (including the basement) can lead to:

decrease in its bearing capacity;
the formation of cracks and pores;
penetration through the formed voids of cold and moisture;
destruction of concrete during freezing and thawing processes.

This will be especially true for reinforced concrete, in which a reinforcing cage is included in the foundation. As a result, the violation of the integrity of the concrete protection layer, which is designed to protect the metal from corrosion, will lead to a decrease in the bearing capacity of the structure.

by the most the best option for the bath will be a brick plinth. However, in this case, not every brick is suitable. It is best to use solid red burnt brick. Its main feature is that it perfectly repels moisture, and also serves as an excellent waterproofing. It also has such a wonderful property as it absorbs heat well, and then gives it away for a long time. This property does not allow lower crown rot!

At the initial stage of the construction of the basement, ventilation holes must be provided. It is quite enough for a bath to have two holes on opposite sides of the foundation, having dimensions of 150x150 mm. It is quite possible that holes for sewerage and water supply will be needed in the above-ground part of the foundation - they will need to be foreseen in advance.

Creation of waterproofing

The next most important item of technological requirements for the basement will be vertical and / or horizontal waterproofing. It will be able to protect the building from the possible penetration of ground moisture into the room and into the wall structure. Usually, a rolled roofing material is used for horizontal waterproofing, which is laid under the wall on top of the plinth. In this case, the surface should be leveled with a screed made of cement-sand mortar, so that the height differences are not higher than 5 mm. Subsequently, roofing material will need to be glued to hot bitumen. To perform vertical waterproofing, liquid rubber is required. It is applied by spray or by hand using a brush, spatula, brush or roller. Both horizontal and vertical insulation is produced in two layers.

Warming process

Warming is the most important process. To prevent heat from escaping from the room, it is necessary to carefully protect the basement structure, including the foundation, with the help of some kind of insulation. The choice and depth of the selected insulation will depend on how deep the soil freezes in a particular region. The wall is also insulated from the outside, for this, rigid polystyrene foam or special mineral wool is used using fiberglass reinforcement and layers of waterproofing.

Alternative ways to build a plinth

In some cases, craftsmen use non-standard designs to construct a bath basement, for example, from ordinary ordinary bricks, silicate bricks, slates, wall stones, and the like. It is also worth noting that any wall material it is undesirable to use it as a plinth material, since it is not intended for direct contact with the ground. In this case, it is recommended to build structures together with an array from the base.

If the foundation base is made in the form of piles, then it is preferable to make the above-ground part in the form of a reinforced concrete monolithic belt. The last and first row of the base, made of red brick, should be placed in a poke, and the inner ones in a spoon. This will provide a good bond, as well as give the necessary rigidity. If there are more than 5 bricks nearby, then also on the 5th row it should be “plugged” with a base.

If the foundation ends at a mark that is equal to the mark of the ground, then for the construction of the wooden walls of the bath, additional brickwork can be made as a basement. It is recommended to use a silicate-type brick, because it can interact quite well with a humid environment. The level should be raised by 500-600 mm from the existing ground surface, however, not less than 250 mm. The thickness of such a wall will correspond to 400 mm for a large bath, as well as 250 mm for a small one-room building.

Be sure to make ventilation outlets. On top of the masonry, it is recommended to make a reinforcing belt of concrete and reinforcement. Waterproofing is laid under the wall and brick, because in this case three types of materials are used for walls, foundations and plinth.

plinth trim

Cladding materials are used exclusively durable - frost-resistant and moisture resistant. This will further protect the building structure from temperature extremes, as well as moisture.

Easy steam for you!

Technology for the manufacture of brick plinth

Material selection

What tools will be required

Choice of plinth width

What height to make the base

Foundation waterproofing

markup

Ventilation products

Proportions for mortar

Making corners

Plinth decoration

Product varieties

Areas of use

Furnace masonry

The screen in the bath

salt screens

Walling

How do we make a basement for a bath?

Stages of erection of a strip foundation for a summer residence

The composition of the concrete mix per 1 cu. m.

Technology for the preparation of concrete mix for strip foundation

Concrete mortar laying

For this we need the following materials

Strip foundation - work procedure

Advantages and disadvantages

Choosing a place and a brick for a bath

Design

Foundation

Types and sequence of masonry walls

Calculation of the number of bricks

Roof and floor for a brick bath

finish line

Types of plinth

How to make a plinth

Waterproofing

Warming

Alternative ways to build a base

plinth trim

Material for the basement of the house

Do you need a brick base

Brick for plinth

Brick brand for plinth

Calculation of bricks per base

How to lay a brick base

The positive aspects of this framework

What are screw piles

Arrangement of a pile-screw base

Marking the locations of piles

Construction of the foundation for the furnace

Basic rules for building a base for a furnace

Material for the basement of the house

Do you need a brick base

Brick for plinth

Brick brand for plinth

Calculation of bricks per base

The choice of the foundation for the bath

Selection and arrangement of the foundation for the bath

Regulations to be observed

Purpose and types of foundation

Bath with your own hands. Bath foundation

Choosing the type of bath foundation

Bath foundation

Bath plinth

Flat slate plinth device

The foundation for the stove in the bath

Types and devices of foundations for a bath by technology

Types of soil soils and technologies for installing foundations on them

Fire safety rules for the construction of a bath

The main types of foundations for the construction of a bath structure

Innovative technologies in the construction of a bath

The secrets of the old masters for the construction of the bath base

Types of plinth

How to build a plinth

Creation of waterproofing

Warming process

Alternative ways to build a plinth

plinth trim