Proper insulation of the concrete ceiling in the apartment. Wall insulation in the apartment: the fight against a cold wall Is it necessary to insulate the ceiling on the top floor

Many are concerned about the question: "How and with what to insulate the ceiling in a residential area?". And not just to insulate, but to make sure that the insulation is "in combination" and a decorative material - and there are many such options. Our article will discuss how to choose the best option for thermal insulation material, and how to properly insulate the ceiling in a particular room.

Ceiling in the apartment

Insulation of ceilings in an apartment may be needed only in one case - if it is located on the top floor. And it doesn’t even make much difference whether there is an attic in the house or not. Even if there is, it still does not heat up. Unless, in this case, the likelihood of your ceiling getting wet is reduced if the roof is leaking.

But it also happens that after a good downpour or melting snow, the ceiling in your apartment is wet. And where there is dampness, there it is cold - and such a nuisance, alas, is not uncommon, especially in old houses.

And if this still happened, you should not despair. Simply, before you insulate the ceiling in the apartment, you need to perform a series of manipulations. Of course, you need to get rid of it first, and our site has detailed articles on this topic. But if it didn’t come to that, then the main thing that needs to be done is to block moisture.
To do this, you will need a waterproofing repair compound such as Aquastop, Kalmastop, Gidroizol. These are penetrating soils that can not only block incoming moisture, but also displace existing moisture from the thickness of the concrete.

These compositions are effective even in cases where there are cracks in the plates (see), open up to three millimeters. At the same time, the treated structure does not have to be dry. If there is a seam on the ceiling formed by the joint of the plates, and it is large enough, you will need a seam composition, which, when crystallized, forms an insurmountable barrier for water.

Advice! After processing the seams and corner joints of the ceiling, they can be reinforced by gluing self-adhesive fiberglass insulating tape around their perimeter.

After finishing the processing of the joints, you can begin to apply waterproofing primer over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling. We insulate the ceiling after the coating layer dries. If you made waterproofing using the technology that we described above, now your ceiling is not afraid of anything.

You can decorate it in any way convenient for you. But you still need to mount the insulation, and this requires a frame. If the height of the room is quite low, and you don’t want to take away 12-15 cm from it, you should consider options for frameless insulation.

Heat-insulating plaster

And here is the first idea for you, how to insulate the ceiling on the top floor. One of frameless options insulation, and not only the ceiling, but also the walls, is warm plaster.

What is it:

These are dry mixes composed of porous fillers and plasticizing additives. Astringent base mixtures used for internal works, is all the same gypsum.
Different types of heat-insulating plasters differ from each other only by the type of filler. Depending on the manufacturer, the filler can be: granulated expanded clay, expanded polystyrene, foamed glass or silicon, vermiculite or perlite expanded sand.
In cheaper options, sawdust is used, but for an apartment this is not the most the best option. We will not expand on the properties of each type of warm plaster. Let's just say that they all have good adhesion to various surfaces, resistant to moisture and mold, and have a low coefficient of thermal conductivity.

For residential premises, it is best to use plasters with fillers of natural origin. They are applied to the wall without prior alignment, in one layer. It does not require the installation of a reinforcing mesh. Some of the thermal insulation plasters do not even require finishing.
For example: mixtures of foam glass. They are so plastic that they even allow you to make a relief on the surface of the ceiling or wall, or to form decorative elements that look like stucco molding. Such plaster itself, due to the coarse-grained filler, creates a coating with an interesting texture.
Naturally, this material is the most expensive compared to other warm compositions. On the other hand, the coefficient of thermal conductivity of plaster based on foam glass is 30-40% lower compared to that of mineral wool.

By the way, it can also participate in foam glass. There are aluminum acoustic panels with foam glass coating.

They are very light, rigid, have excellent sound insulation. The panels have various formats, and can be used not only for suspended ceilings, but also for wall cladding.

Cork agglomerate

How and how to insulate the ceiling in order to do without leveling and mounting the frame, and even better - without finishing? We offer another, environmentally friendly option for ceiling insulation.

This is the lining of its surface with cork agglomerate. The cork is absolutely not afraid of moisture, it is very light, it can be mounted both on glue and on the crate. The installation method will depend on which coating you prefer: rolled, or in the form of plates.
This material is made from the bark of a certain type of oak called cork. White agglomerate is used as decorative coatings for walls and ceilings.
It is obtained by molding and pressing granules in an organic binder: gelatin, coal-stone pitch, resins. Polymers are not used in the production of cork coatings.

A huge advantage of this material is its varied texture and colors, the possibility of staining, drawing, or stencil images. The cork coating perfectly hides small irregularities and defects in the ceiling, therefore it does not require preliminary leveling of the surface.
The only condition for gluing the cork coating is cement base. That is, if there was a plaster screed on the ceiling before, it will have to be removed. From figures and elements cut out of cork different color, you can create applications, panels, and whole paintings on the ceiling.
We are talking about the ceiling, because it is he who is the topic of our conversation. Naturally, everything we talk about is also relevant for other surfaces. For floor and wall finishing cork flooring used even more often.
By the way, flooring made of cork, intended for mounting on glue, can also be used for the ceiling. It is glued either to the base ceiling or to the surface plate insulation as shown in the photo below.

And if you need to finish and insulate the whole apartment - why is the ceiling worse than the floor or walls? Often, cork is used in the design of the entire room.

Cork is hypoallergenic, so cork flooring is ideal for children's rooms and bedrooms. Such a room will not only be warm, but also perfectly isolated from noise. Why don't you decorate your apartment the same way?

Needless to say, all materials mounted on the frame are good when it is necessary to insulate the ceiling. And this is not only cork or solid wood, but also any sheet and modular options: drywall, MDF panels, even plastic - because insulation can be placed inside the structure.

Eco panels and foam tiles

How can you insulate the ceiling in order to create a design worthy of decorating the interior of the living room? Continuing the theme of decorative materials, which are an excellent insulation, one cannot but say about eco-panels. It's relative new material, which has a three-dimensional surface, for which it received the status of 3D.

The three-dimensional surface of volumetric panels is perceived differently, depending on the lighting. Using an eco-panel for facing the ceiling, you can insulate the ceiling and get chic design. Just look at this diversity! Shown here are the options that already have finishing, and those that can be painted.
Eco-panels are produced from natural raw materials of plant origin: loose cellulose, chopped bamboo, reed, straw, or the same cork. The binder is organic resins. Thereby given material referred to with the prefix "eco".
These panels are mounted on glue - everything is very simple. To prevent the ceilings in all rooms from looking the same, you can use panels with different texture, or you can use your own version of insulation in each room.

It is also possible to use small-format, glue-mounted and polystyrene foam or fiberglass tiles to get a beautiful and insulated ceiling. The latter, however, is more often installed on the frame, according to the system cassette ceilings. But, in such a design, additional insulation can be laid.

We insulate the ceiling in a private house

Speaking about the insulation of the ceiling in a private house, it should be noted that it may be needed in two cases. The first - if the house has a basement, or ground floor. The second is the attic ceiling, or attic floor.

If area basement corresponds to the total area of \u200b\u200bthe house, it is more convenient to insulate from the side of the upper premises - that is, in the process of installing the floor of the first floor. Unless, of course, the design of the floor allows.

If the floor is concrete

It is carried out simultaneously with their installation. All the nuances of this technology are detailed in one of the articles on our website.

We will consider the option when used in a brick or block house reinforced concrete slabs overlap. So, smooth and smooth surface slabs, is an ideal base for tiling, laying parquet, or laminate.

In this case, it is unlikely that anyone would think of making insulation from this side. Therefore, it is better if the insulation is laid on the ceiling during the finishing of the basement.

First, the ceiling over the entire area is processed waterproofing impregnation- it will not allow condensation to collect. Then, depending on the choice decorative coating, an aluminum frame or a wooden crate is mounted.

Can be used as a heater board materials: Styrofoam, different kinds mineral wool, expanded polystyrene foam. Roll insulation, in this case are not very convenient to use.
There is practically no need to cut the plates. The main thing is to choose their size so that the width matches the profile pitch, or is one or two centimeters wider. Then the insulation will sit tightly in the cells, and will not fall out during the installation process. As a fixative for insulation, facade dowels with a wide cap are used.
Fastening the insulation to the ceiling can also be done with an adhesive method. Then, as a waterproofing layer, not roll material, and the absorbent primer of deep penetration.
Letting the ceiling dry after applying the impregnating waterproofing, mount the frame and, applying glue to desired area, press the insulation plate to it. To complete this process, there is special kind glue.

When the installation of the insulation is completed, a plastic film or foil is glued on top of it. it vapor barrier layer. If you buy a more expensive and modern insulation, the front side of which already comes with a foil lining from the factory, you will only have to lay the plates with foil inside the room.

Here, in fact, the process of insulating the ceiling is completed. Next, mounted on the frame decorative surface: panels made of plastic or MDF, drywall, lining, etc.

If the insulation boards are mounted without a frame, then a fine-mesh fiberglass mesh is fixed on top of them, and plaster is applied. Most often, the same ones are used for insulation warm plasters mentioned at the beginning of the article. But this is on the facade. And in the case of the ceiling, you can use at least liquid wallpaper, at least decorative putty.

Ceiling in the basement and attic floors

To insulate the basement, it is quite possible to use another method: covering the surface of the ceiling, and indeed the entire room, with liquid polyurethane foam. But for this you will have to turn to specialists, because you will need special equipment, which does not make sense to buy to perform one-time work.

However, if the basement is residential, you can apply the same types of insulation that were mentioned above. In such cases, suspended ceilings are most often installed, since it is in them that lighting and ventilation.

When the house has two or three floors, it will be necessary to insulate the ceiling only on the last one. If there is an attic on top of it, the easiest way is to insulate the floor from the side of this room. There you can use all types of insulation, even polymer.
The most convenient, and even cheaper, will be the use of bulk insulation: expanded clay, vermiculite, expanded polystyrene granules or penofol. Ordinary sawdust is also often used for this purpose, although it must be remembered that sawdust is highly flammable, as, indeed, foam.

To fill the insulation, on the floor surface, previously covered with roofing material, they mount wooden logs. Logs must be pre-treated with an antiseptic. Loose insulation, especially if a combustible option is used, it is better to fill it with liquid cement mortar.
Expanded clay or vermiculite can not be poured. But, if the floor is done in the attic, which will be used as residential attic, these types of insulation are not only filled with a solution, a reinforcing steel mesh is also embedded in it.

After the concrete has set, a self-leveling floor is made on the floor surface. It turns out a solid and even base on which you can lay any floor covering.

Conclusion

Another scenario is also possible. In a house that does not have an attic, the roof slopes serve as the ceiling. This, in fact, also applies to the attic ceiling. Then the insulation is installed between the rafters. You may not need to make a crate - it all depends on the design of the roof.

The technology for the production of work here may not differ from that used to insulate the basement ceiling. When the inner surfaces of the walls and roof slopes are so well insulated, there is no need to insulate and overlap. Especially if attic floor Heated like every other room in the house.

We hope that we have helped you figure out how to insulate the ceiling. For clarity, we suggest watching the video in this article.

Do you often have to turn on the heaters because the room does not keep warm? Does moisture collect on the walls in cold but not rainy weather? Are there dark spots and mold on the walls? Is it cold in the house in winter and hot in summer? The floor is so cold that even the carpets do not save? With all this, unfortunately, residents of uninsulated apartments on the top floor are familiar. However, do not despair, all of the above problems are solved. You just need to know how to insulate an apartment on the top floor, which will be discussed in this article.

To solve this problem, you need to approach it comprehensively: insulate walls, ceiling, floor, windows, doors, use radiators more rationally central heating.

Introductory information

Each material has its own thermal conductivity - the ability to conduct heat. The lower the value of this parameter, the worse the material conducts heat and, therefore, its thermal insulation qualities are higher. Another important parameter is the resistance to heat transfer (material thickness (m) / thermal conductivity). The thicker the material, the better its thermal insulation qualities.

In October 2003, new norms for the thermal resistance of enclosing structures (walls, ceilings, windows, etc.) came into force in Russia. The majority of residential buildings built before the adoption of existing standards do not meet the new, tougher requirements.

Table number 1.

Thermal conductivity of walls, required thickness

Note. In the table, for ease of calculation, a random value of R (heat transfer resistance) is taken, close to the average normalized value for the walls of residential buildings in Moscow and the Moscow region.

Reinforced concrete, concrete, brick are excellent materials in terms of their bearing capacity, however, in order to meet modern standards for heat transfer resistance, they must be 5.7, 5.25 and 2.1 meters thick, respectively. Hardly anyone met panel house with a wall thickness of 5 meters, or Khrushchev with 2.1-meter walls. Materials with better thermal insulation properties have less bearing capacity, which does not allow their use in the construction of multi-storey buildings. Excellent insulation materials, such as mineral wool or polystyrene foam, are generally not structural materials, therefore, even following common sense, of which it is impossible to build a house.

In order to meet the standards for resistance to heat transfer of building envelopes, developers are forced to build multi-layer houses, where one layer is load-bearing and the other is heat-insulating. And the residents of old houses, in turn, should use modern heaters to minimize heat loss. Insulation of the premises will make them cozy and comfortable, and will also remove the need for additional heating devices.

Table number 2.

The main types of insulation, their characteristics

Characteristics\Material	Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS)	Styrofoam	Fiberglass	Mineral wool
Thermal conductivity coefficient, W/(m*K)	0,033	0,035	0,039	0,04
Water absorption, % by volume, averaged	Not	5	10	7,5
Strength	Excellent mechanical strength	Relative strength	brittle fibers; shrinks with time and moisture	Shrinks when wet
Flammability group	G1–G4	G2–G4	Non-flammable	Non-flammable
Mounting	Ease of installation	Ease of installation		Required individual means protection
Service life, years	50	up to 20	up to 25	Up to 35
Price, rub. m 3	3500–7000	1500–2500	1000–2000	2000–3500
Required thickness at R = 3, mm	99	105	117	120

Despite the high cost, the most widely used EPS. It is used in outdoor and internal insulation apartments, houses, attics and basements, ceilings, foundations, roofs, garages and so on.

Wall insulation

Walls, in view large area and contact with external environment(outside), contribute to the loss of 20-30% of all heat. The "weak" places of the walls, through which the greatest heat losses occur, are the seams between outer walls, between outer wall and ceiling (floor, ceiling), corners of the premises. It is obvious that the residents were especially unlucky corner apartments on the first and last floors, where heat loss is most significant. However, residents of apartments on the middle floors in the middle of the building are not protected from significant heat losses either. It happens that the outer walls have hidden defects(through cracks, depressurization of seams, insufficient thickness heat-insulating material etc.).

To avoid heat loss through the walls, you can only insulate them. The best option- This is the external insulation of the walls. With this warming outer wall will cease to "heat the street", but, on the contrary, will accumulate heat. In addition, it will be protected from strong wind, rain, temperature changes (will not freeze in winter and heat up in summer). It will also save usable space in the apartment. Internal wall insulation will be effective only if layered masonry, otherwise the temperature in the room will rise by only a couple of degrees, and condensation will most likely form on the wall or insulation. With internal insulation, you will also have to transfer electrical wiring due to freezing of the walls.

Ceiling insulation

Losses through the ceiling are most significant for residents of apartments on the top floors. Nobody canceled the laws of physics: heavy cold air goes down, and light warm air rises up and goes out.

Weak points: the seam between the wall and the floor, the corners of the room, as well as floor defects. As a rule, these places are cold bridges.

Usually in winter, heat loss through the ceiling of an apartment on the top floor is up to 20–30%. If there is a technical floor above the apartment, then the heat loss is usually less than if the ceiling of the apartment on the last floor is also the roof of the house.

It is better to insulate the ceiling in an apartment on the top floor from the outside. This can be done independently. If there is a technical floor above the apartment, then it is necessary to insulate that section of the floor of the technical floor, under which the premises of the apartment are located. If there is no additional floor and the ceiling of the apartment is part of the roof, then the roof can be insulated from the outside. Insulate the ceiling and inside the apartments. For this, as a rule, heat-insulating plates of EPPS or ordinary polystyrene foam (polystyrene) are used.

Floor insulation

No matter how the physical law works, stating that hot air rises, the floors on the upper floors apartment buildings still cold. Of course, not the same as on the first floors, but still it’s impossible to stand on the floor barefoot - it’s cold.

Insulating the floor is easier than walls or ceilings. For insulation, a variety of heaters are used: from expanded clay and wood chips to glass wool and polystyrene foam. In order to save usable space and ease of installation for floor insulation, XPS is often used.

It is not necessary to consider the "warm floor" system for apartments on the top floor, and sometimes it is impossible. So, water heated floor in the premises high-rise building with centralized heating is prohibited, and electric is characterized by increased energy consumption, and its use as the main heating system is impossible in houses built more than 10-15 years ago.

Central heating

Often, to insulate an apartment on the top floor, it is enough to fully use the resources of central heating. The main task is for everyone possible ways improve the heat dissipation of the radiator. Here are some helpful tips:

If all or part of the battery is cold, you need to bleed the air by slightly opening the air valve.
In order for warm air to heat the room, and not the walls of the house, you need to put protective screen with a foil surface (popularly - a reflector) on the wall behind the battery.
Heated air should circulate freely, so you should not move furniture close to the battery, cover it with a curtain or curtains.
The decorative screen mounted on the battery must be removed. This will increase heat transfer by up to 20%.

If these measures did not have the desired effect, and old-style batteries are installed in the apartment, you need to install new radiators that have a higher heat transfer. For example, the heat transfer of one section bimetallic radiators is 140-210 W, while the same indicators of sections cast iron radiators do not exceed 60 watts.

Heat loss through door leaf despite its relatively small area, can be impressive - about 10%. Also a large number of heat is spent on heating cold air coming from outside (drafts). The cause of drafts can be worn seals, gaps between the box and the walls. In this case, the door leaf must be upholstered, the seals must be replaced, the gaps must be filled mounting foam.

Table number 3.

Thermal conductivity of common materials used in the production of entrance doors.

Table number 4.

Thermal conductivity of common materials used for upholstery of entrance doors.

Average heat loss, for example, through a door leaf made of solid pine, 2x0.7x0.03 m in size (HxWxT) will be 70 kWh. But it is enough to insulate it with 2 cm of foam rubber, as heat losses will drop to 28 kWh. If you add another 2 cm of batting, then the heat loss will be 14.5 kWh. Already counting your savings in money? We will help. efficiency, for example electric heaters is no more than 90%, that is, to obtain 1 kW of heat, you need to spend 1.1 kW of electricity. 1 kWh of electricity costs an average of 3.2 rubles. for the central part of Russia. To obtain 1 kW of heat, respectively, you will need to pay about 3.5 rubles. We consider the savings: (70 - 14.5) * 3.5 \u003d 194.25 rubles. Approximately the same amount will cost 55.5 kWh of heat obtained using an electric heater.

Windows are one of the main sources of heat loss, especially when it comes to old window frames that let cold air into the room (popularly - a draft, but scientifically - infiltration). In this case, heat loss can be up to 35%. If condensation, ice often appears on the windows, drafts are felt, then they must be insulated.

It is most reliable to install a plastic double-glazed window. If this is not possible, you need to insulate window frame, sashes, glass, window sills and slopes with their own hands. Looking through the window for possible cracks, gaps and cracks, you should not rely only on visual inspection, you need to “read” the windows with a wet hand, paying special attention to the slopes, window sills, gaps between the sashes and the frame, between the sashes and glass.

Windows are insulated as follows: all cracks are filled with mounting foam; along the perimeter of the wings, a sealant is glued to the places adjacent to the frame; along the perimeter of the fit of the glass to the frame is applied silicone sealant; and a heat-reflecting film is glued onto the glass itself. All this will reduce heat loss by 20-25% through the windows.

Outcome

Competent complex insulation is the key to warm and cozy room without mold and wet spots on the walls, drafts and noise, a cold floor that you cannot step on without a pair of socks and slippers. It is also a significant savings in electricity, biofuel gas and other means used for heating. "My home is my castle" - that's what every owner will say warm home, who followed all the above tips and thereby achieved best results in the insulation of the apartment on the top floor.

Foreword. If you have set yourself the task of creating warmth and comfort in the apartment, then you should think about how and with what to insulate the ceiling on the top floor of the house. It is for apartments on the upper floors that this issue is relevant. In the article, we will analyze the methods of thermal insulation of this design, and also show a video instruction on how to insulate the ceiling in an apartment from the inside on the top floor on your own.

Ceilings in apartments on the last floors of apartment buildings are the place of the greatest heat loss. Up to 50% of the heat from the room can escape through the ceilings, especially if the attic is poorly insulated management company. Therefore, with the approach of cold weather, the question is how to insulate the ceiling and floor in the apartment, which thermal insulation material choose for these purposes, for residents of apartment buildings becomes especially relevant.

Do I need to insulate the ceiling in the apartment from the inside

If you do not make high-quality thermal insulation of the room, then the heat will leave the living room through the ceiling slabs. There are many ways to do all the work efficiently and inexpensively. Today on construction market There is a wide variety of thermal insulation materials. Consider in the article the materials and methods that are often used for this.

It is quite simple to carry out thermal insulation of the ceiling in the apartment from the inside. The main thing is to accurately calculate the amount required material, calculate the thickness of the thermal insulation on the calculator. It doesn’t matter what material your ceiling is finished with - plasterboard, clapboard or painted water-based paint. All these materials can be finished with heat-insulating materials.

How to insulate the ceiling in the apartment from the inside

For warming various designs today they use foam, polystyrene, mineral wool and the most inexpensive option- foil penofol. Styrofoam boards most convenient option for ceiling mounting, but remember that Styrofoam emits harmful substances, so it is more suitable for warming the facade of the house. Extruded polystyrene boards are denser and more durable.

Insulation with expanded polystyrene

Styrofoam or foam slabs are attached to the ceiling with polystyrene foam glue, and for reliability they are fixed with fungal dowels. Next on slab thermal insulation a paint mesh is glued, and the entire surface of the ceiling is puttied and painted. The mesh is glued to the surface of the foam so that it is completely covered with a putty layer. After the surface is covered with finishing putty.

Once finishing putty dry, the entire surface is primed and painted. Now you are already a little familiar with the question of how to insulate the ceiling in an apartment from the inside on the top floor with foam. If in your apartment the ceiling height is sufficient for mounting the frame, then you can use glass wool or mineral wool to insulate the ceiling in the apartment from the inside on your own.

Warming with basalt wool

In the case of choosing mineral wool boards to protect the structure, do not forget that the basalt material absorbs moisture from warm air and must be protected by a vapor barrier on the side warm room. Vapor barrier film used for warming any surfaces with mineral wool, for example, ceiling insulation in a bath. After laying the insulation on the frame, a lining or drywall is attached.

Sequencing:

1. We close up cracks in the ceiling and apply liquid waterproofing;
2. We mount the frame on the ceiling with a step less than the width of the mineral wool slabs;
3. Stacking basalt insulation between frame guides;
4. We close the entire structure with a heater with rolled waterproofing;
5. We sheathe the ceiling with plasterboard, or order a stretch ceiling.

How to insulate the ceiling in an apartment inexpensively

If you do not want to mount the frame on the ceiling or this does not allow you to make a low ceiling in the room, then you can insulate the structure in another way. For this, penofol or decorative plates from foam. Both of these materials are very easy to glue to the ceiling, anyone can handle this task. At the same time, penofol and decorative plates do not hide the space in the room.

Before starting work, apartment owners should determine exactly which method of ceiling insulation suits them best and which heat-insulating material will be appropriate. Otherwise, through ceiling heat will continue to leave the living quarters. By tradition, we have posted a video instruction on this topic and you can learn more about the technology of doing work on your own.

Video. Insulation of the ceiling in the apartment on the top floor

Frosts are rapidly approaching, and the temperature in many apartments is far from the most comfortable. We are forced to put on warm clothes, buy heaters, sleep under several blankets, which causes discomfort. What to do if it's cold in the apartment? It is quite possible to solve this problem on your own.

What to do if the apartment is cold

Cold batteries in the apartment: what to do?

High-quality radiators are the key to warmth and comfort in the house. If the radiators are many years old and the apartment is cold in winter, it may be worth replacing them. But before you run for an expensive purchase, do a survey: sometimes the batteries do not heat up due to air locks or because of the negligence of utilities. Where to complain if it's cold in the apartment, we told.

Many modern models radiators are manufactured with , so you can set the right temperature. High-quality heaters can serve faithfully for decades, therefore, having spent only one time, you will forget about cold batteries in the house for a long time.

There are several types of radiators:

Cast iron - the most classic version, which has been used for heating for over a hundred years. Cast iron batteries durable, resistant to corrosion and have high heat dissipation. They are not afraid of hard, low-quality water and pressure drops. The disadvantages of cast iron radiators include bulkiness and unaesthetic appearance. Nonetheless, modern design of these batteries with monograms and original coloring will fit well into the interior of the classical style.
Aluminum - durable, lightweight and elegant heaters. Ease of installation optimal price and high heat dissipation make aluminum batteries perfect choice for many. However this species radiators are prone to corrosion with a high alkali content in the water.
Steel radiators are often used for heating private houses and offices. They have excellent heat dissipation and corrosion resistance. Their disadvantage lies in the sensitivity to water hammer - sudden pressure drops in the pipe.
Bimetallic the radiator, in simple terms, consists of a steel core and an outer aluminum layer. This design is optimal for city apartments: the steel pipeline is not subject to corrosion, and aluminum, which has good thermal conductivity, perfectly supplies heat to the room. However, all these advantages are overshadowed by the high cost of the product.
Copper batteries provide efficient space heating due to their thermal conductivity - it is much higher than that of aluminum and even more so than that of steel and cast iron. That's just the price copper radiators, as well as bimetallic ones, will not please everyone.

The choice of a radiator depends not only on your tastes and financial condition, but also on compatibility with your heating system. Therefore, before buying, you should determine whether the characteristics of the heater correspond (pressure, allowable temperature, heat transfer, etc.) indicators of the heating system.

One of the problems in a private house is heat leakage through the ceiling. If in apartment building above warm apartment, then in our case overhead only cold attic or even just a street. How to insulate the ceiling from the inside in a private house, if for some reason it is not possible to do this from the attic?

Material selection

Let's start with the structure of the insulation. It will be multi-layered; we have to follow in sequence:

External vapor barrier insulation;
Crate for filling with heat-insulating material;
actual thermal insulation;
Internal vapor barrier;
Finally, the ceiling must be hemmed with any finishing material.

vapor barrier

As a vapor barrier, glassine is most often used - inexpensive material with acceptable consumer properties. However, if you need additional insurance against leaks - the best choice there will be good old plastic wrap. It is absolutely impervious to water and has a service life of at least fifty years.

Vapor barrier sheets are laid with an overlap. If the ceiling is sloping (for example, in the attic), the film is laid in rows from the bottom up so that condensate cannot flow under the lower sheets. It is better to additionally glue the inner layer of the vapor barrier with adhesive tape. This will ensure absolute tightness.

Why are all these measures necessary? The worst enemy of mineral and ecowool insulation is condensate. Wet mineral wool greatly reduces the thermal insulation qualities. And indoor humidity in winter is always much higher than outdoors (see).

Please note: if we insulate from below reinforced concrete floor, upper layer vapor barrier is not needed. Between moisture-impermeable concrete and thermal insulation, there is simply nowhere for water to come from.

heat insulating material

Most often, two materials are used as insulation.:

Styrofoam. It's styrofoam. The slabs it is sold with are large enough; the recommended thickness for a temperate climate is 5 centimeters, for Siberia and Far East — 10.

The main advantage is that this insulation is non-hygroscopic, it does not dampen. If so, with any fluctuations in humidity, the quality of the thermal insulation of the ceiling will not change (see).

Mineral wool (glass wool, ecowool, basalt wool and other variations on the same theme). The material is noticeably cheaper than polystyrene with the same degree of thermal insulation provided.

In addition, it is considered more environmentally friendly: mineral fiber does not emit anything into the atmosphere, and heated debates about the properties of polystyrene foam do not subside. possible harm for good health .

The debate about which material is better can also be endless. On any construction portal you can meet convinced adherents of both methods of insulation; Therefore, we will not impose a certain position on the reader.

Let's just say that the foam to a lesser extent changes properties over time, not only in humid environment: mineral wool caking over time. Even if perfect vapor barrier is provided.

If you choose expanded polystyrene plates as thermal insulation, the inner layer of vapor barrier is also useless. It is enough just to glue the seams between the plates with a wide adhesive tape (see).

Sometimes the foam is simply put on glue. From below it is covered with a layer decorative plaster- and the ceiling is ready.

crate

Two types of lathing are used: wooden and galvanized profile.

Wooden one is a little cheaper and a little easier to install. But the galvanized profile is not deformed by fluctuations in temperature and humidity, is not affected by the fungus and does not serve as food for insects.

Nuance: when it comes to insulating the ceiling from the inside wooden house- you can safely make a crate from a bar or slats. Really, what's the point of doing suspended ceiling stronger and more durable than walls and overlays? Of course, it is worth treating the material for the crate with an antiseptic.

Binder

Here everything is in your hands. Most fast way hem the ceiling Wall panels from PVC. In addition, they are easy to wash.

However, drywall will give flat surface without seams; can be built and rack ceiling, and suspended tiled ... The choice of material is solely a matter of personal preference and the budget allocated for repairs.

Basic operations

As an example, consider the insulation of the ceiling from the inside in a private house for the case when overhead there are beams with a plank ceiling hemmed to them. The climate is temperate; we will warm up mineral wool 50 mm thick.

Armed with a stapler, we attach to the ceiling polyethylene film. It will completely stop the flow of moisture to the boards from the room and extend the life of our ceiling. An overlap of a dozen centimeters is required.
We fill the crate. Hemming the ceiling will become PVC panels; a thin mounting rail is sufficient for them. But let's not forget about the thickness of the thermal insulation and take a bar 50x50.

We will fill it across the future panels with a step of 60 centimeters: in this case, the panels will not sag, and the mineral wool will not have to be cut in width. Most of rolls are exactly the same size.

We fill the gaps between the bars with mineral wool. It is better to wear textile gloves and protect your eyes and nose: cotton wool fibers are volatile.

Again armed with a stapler, we hem the crate from below with a second layer of polyethylene. Additionally, we glue the joints of the canvases with adhesive tape: the greater the tightness we provide, the longer the insulation will retain its properties.
Finally, final stage: we hem the wall panels from below. We will not focus on how this is done: installation methods have already been described hundreds of times.

Hem panels to wooden crate is more than an easy task.

Conclusion

Our goal is achieved: the room is insulated from the inside. Winter is not to be feared. The downside was that we lost about six centimeters of ceiling height. Unfortunately, the victim was inevitable... Good luck with the repair!