How to choose the thickness of a brick wall? Laminated masonry Three-layer masonry with and without gap

Brick is the most common material for the construction of load-bearing walls. It is successfully used both in high-rise industrial construction and in private low-rise buildings. The only drawback of a brick is its low thermal insulation qualities. To solve this problem, it is additional insulation walls. Brickwork with insulation inside makes it possible to build warm house at minimal cost time and finance.

Cons of masonry without insulation

More recently, the issue of thermal insulation of brick buildings was solved in a simple way- increase in wall thickness. Yes, for middle lane the usual wall thickness was 3-3.5 bricks, and in the northern regions it could reach 1-1.5 m. This is due to the high coefficient of thermal conductivity of the brick, which causes large heat losses.

This thickness was a necessary measure in the absence of effective and inexpensive thermal insulation materials. Another factor contributing to the use of "thick wall" technology in the Soviet era was the relative cheapness of bricks. This made it possible to simplify the masonry technology by refusing to use heat-insulating materials.

However, in recent times such an approach becomes too wasteful from a financial point of view: in addition to the cost of a brick, the cost of arranging reinforced foundations increases.

Another problem that can be encountered when laying brickwork without thermal insulation is the displacement of the dew point inside the premises.

In construction, the dew point is the point inside or outside the street walls of a building where the cooled vapor contained in the air begins to condense. The transformation of steam into dew occurs upon contact warm air with cold surfaces.

The most preferred option is to find the dew point outside the building, in which case the condensed moisture will simply evaporate under the influence of wind and sun. It is much worse if the dew point is shifted inside the premises. Dampness, which forms on the inner surfaces of the walls, negatively affects the microclimate in the house, becoming a source of high humidity and causes mold and mildew.

Not insulated walls in winter frosts are cooled to their entire thickness, as a result, steam condensation occurs on their internal surfaces.

In areas where during the cold season are installed sub-zero temperatures, the technology of laying bricks with insulation is the only acceptable one.

Three-layer masonry

One type of insulated wall is a three-layer brickwork. Its structure looks like this:

Inner wall made of bricks, cinder blocks, aerated concrete, etc. Carries out the bearing function for interfloor overlappings and a roof of the building.
. The insulation is placed in the internal cavities-wells between the outer and inner walls. Protects the inner wall from freezing during the cold season.
Exterior wall with brick cladding. Performs decorative functions, giving the facade additional aesthetics.

On the image:

No. 1 - interior decoration.

No. 2 - the bearing wall of the building.

No. 3 - insulation between brickwork.

№4 - ventilation gap between internal insulation and facing wall.

No. 5 - external wall with brick lining.

No. 6 - internal reinforcement connecting the inner and outer wall.

Brickwork with insulation inside, like other building technologies, has its pros and cons. To her positive qualities should include:

Smaller masonry volume, which reduces estimated cost by saving on the amount of building material.
Less weight of the building, which makes it possible to use lighter and more inexpensive foundations.
High thermal insulation performance, allowing you to keep warm in winter time.
Improved sound insulation. The thermal insulation layer can significantly reduce the noise level, which is especially important if the building is located on a central street with heavy traffic.
External walls lined with decorative bricks do not need additional decorative finishing.

Among the disadvantages of multilayer walls, you can specify:

Greater labor intensity associated with insulation, compared with brickwork in 3 - 3.5 bricks.
Three-layer walls do not allow periodic replacement of insulation, while its service life is always shorter than the service life of brick walls.

The choice of insulation

As heat-insulating material may apply a wide range of heaters that meet the recommendations of SNiP.

Firstly, the thermal conductivity of the material must be such as to ensure the protection of the interior at the maximum negative values typical for this region.

You can get acquainted with the heat-insulating performance of the insulation in the instructions from the manufacturer on its packaging or in the tables specifications SNiP. By comparing these figures with the winter minimum temperatures, you can calculate the required thickness of the insulation layer.

Secondly, the insulation must have sufficient vapor permeability. Otherwise, moisture will accumulate inside it, which will lead to the loss of thermal insulation qualities.

And thirdly, internal insulation must be fire resistant. Due to its incombustibility, it will not only not support combustion, but will also create a fire-retardant layer inside the masonry.

Mineral wool

A large family of heaters based on mineral fibers have excellent heat-saving characteristics. They are made by whipping molten minerals in a centrifuge: glass, basalt, slag, etc. Low heat transfer in this case achieved due to the high porosity of the material - air layers do not allow cold to penetrate through the mineral wool.

Absolutely not combustible, but very afraid of dampness. When wet, it almost completely loses its heat-saving properties, therefore, when laying it, it is necessary to take care of an effective waterproofing device.

Styrofoam

Foamed - another heat-insulating material often used in three-layer masonry.

It is produced by saturating liquid polystyrene with air, which, after solidification, takes the form of porous round granules. To fill wells in the wall, it can be used in the form of sheets or as bulk material. It is much less afraid of damp than mineral wool, but unlike it, it is flammable, so walls insulated with polystyrene foam should be protected from open fire. Even if the fire does not damage the brickwork, it will burn out and melt the Styrofoam inside it. To replace the insulation, you will have to carry out time-consuming and expensive work to dismantle the facing part of the wall.

Bulk insulation

In private construction, sometimes three-layer masonry is made with backfill internal wells various mineral aggregates: slag, expanded clay, etc. This technique is somewhat cheaper and easier than laying a mini-slab or expanded polystyrene sheets, but its effectiveness is much lower. This is due to the lower thermal protection of slag and expanded clay.

The slag is very hygroscopic - it tends to absorb and retain moisture, which can cause an increase in its thermal conductivity and premature destruction of the adjacent layers of brick.

Masonry of three-layer walls

Wall laying with insulation is carried out in several stages.

Interior wall masonry. It is produced using the same technologies as the laying of a conventional load-bearing wall made of solid brick or building blocks. Depending on the minimum winter temperatures, it can be 1 or 1.5 bricks thick.
Exterior wall masonry with cladding. It is carried out in such a way that between it and the inner wall there is a gap necessary for laying or filling the insulation - a well. Between themselves, 2 walls can be connected either by ties of anchor bolts and reinforcement, or by brick dressing, carried out at certain intervals.
is needed to protect the insulation from moisture, since it is impossible to completely prevent the flow of moisture through the brick.
Filling the wells with filling insulation is carried out when the walls reach a height of 0.8 - 1 m. Sheet and roll insulation fastened to the inner wall with mushroom dowels with a wide plastic cap, after which it is closed with external facing masonry.

For the construction of a waterproofing layer, it is not recommended to use "deaf" materials, such as roofing material. This eliminates the possibility of free gas exchange between external environment and the interior of the house. In outer wall every 0.5 - 1 m, ventilation products should be left - vertical seams between the bricks not filled with mortar.

Three-layer brickwork allows you to solve many problems that arise during the operation of housing in the winter. The process of building such walls is shown in the video below..

wall construction technology

Brick scheme.

1. Masonry starts from the corners of the building. Using the building level, you need to make sure that all the bricks that lie first in the row of each of the walls are perpendicular to each other.
2. Nails must be hammered into the seams between the second and first (in height) and a cord attached to them, which will indicate the level of the first row. The distance between the brick and the cord during laying should be 2 mm.
3. Taking this cord as a guide, you can start laying the first row. It is necessary that on the outside of the wall there is a bonding plane of all bricks. From the inside of the brickwork of the first row, the building material must be positioned so that the spoon part is directed into the room. In the end it looks like this: inner part the walls are laid out in half a brick, and the outer part - in one piece.
4. After laying the first row, the second row is laid out in reverse order. Now the bonding part looks inward, and the spoon part looks outward. As a result, we get a mirror image of the laid out first row: the inside of the wall is laid in brick, and the outside - in half a brick.
5. The building material is placed on the laid mortar at a small distance from each other. When the next brick is laid, the mortar should move back a little. The solution must be evenly and correctly distributed. To do this, you need to slightly move the material back and forth along the plane.
6. After that, it must be moved in the direction of the previously laid material. The bonding plane of the building material should capture part of the mortar and move it into the seam between the located bricks. Due to this action, you can get a high-quality and beautiful vertical seam.
7. Then the material must be pressed in a vertical direction - this is how it is aligned with other bricks. For better adhesion to the mortar on the upper plane of the brick, you need to hit the mortar with the back of the trowel. After that, excess mortar is removed from the surface of the brick.
8. Such laying receives the necessary strength due to the mismatch of vertical seams, as well as due to the fact that they overlap with a continuous surface of bricks. During laying, it is necessary to carefully control the width of the seam. If the joint size increases, this may indicate that there is a deviation from the desired direction of the brickwork or from the vertical of the masonry.

masonry corner brick mix

The solution can be used the same as for other laying methods. The cooking recipe depends on the quality of the building material used. During work, protective measures must be taken: wear gloves, protect your eyes, etc. The construction of walls of this type will require a lot of time and effort. The solution is best prepared in small portions. Do not forget to wet the building material before laying with water (otherwise it will pull it out of the solution). To do this, you can use a bucket of water.

A wall built using this scheme will stand for a very long time. It makes sense to build it if you are not limited in the amount of building material needed or if you are building a house in areas where the strength of the building is a necessity. Such masonry significantly reduces the risk of delamination of the wall material. If the construction of a "fortress" is not included in your plans, then you can use other effective methods brick laying. In any case, when starting to create a building project, it is better to adhere to the brick laying scheme that experts advise.

Masonry corner of 1.5 bricks

When building brick walls Special attention should be given correct masonry corners of the future building. It is the corners that serve as the basis for the construction of brick walls. And it doesn't matter if you build brick bath, garage or cottage - mistakes made when laying out corners can lead to a violation of the geometry of the walls, their strength and stability.

At the beginning of construction, orders are established in the corners along the plumb line. As a rule, during the construction of brick walls, the laying of corners is ahead of the laying of walls by 3-4 rows.

In the article How to make brick walls for a bath, some useful tips on laying out corners have already been given, and in the publication of the Brickwork Dressing System, you can find not only patterns for dressing seams at intersections and junctions, but also patterns for correct dressing when erecting masonry wall corners in 1 ,5 and 2 bricks.

Let's look at a few more schemes for laying the corners of brick walls of different thicknesses.

To perform dressing of masonry seams in the corners, not only full-sized bricks are used, but also halves and quarters of bricks, as well as three-fours the size of ½ bricks. The symbol for bricks of various sizes is shown in the figure below:

Laying a corner in 1 brick The simplest is the laying of corners when building walls with a thickness of 1 brick (250 mm). The layout of the corners in 1 brick with a single-row dressing is shown below:

With multi-row dressing, laying corners in 1 brick will look like this:

As you can see, the schemes are quite simple and you can easily lay out the poke and spoon rows yourself with your own hands without involving a team of qualified masons.

Masonry corner of 1.5 bricks

When building walls of 1.5 bricks (380 mm), the layout of the corners will be somewhat more complicated.

How to make corners of 1.5 bricks with single-row dressing is shown in the figure below:

Masonry corners in 1.5 bricks with multi-row dressing:

Corner masonry in 2 bricks

If it is necessary to perform laying in 2 bricks (510 mm), the corners are laid out as shown in the figures below.

Masonry corners in 2 bricks with single-row dressing:

Masonry corners with multi-row dressing:

Now you know how to dress up brickwork in the corners when building walls in 1, 1.5 and 2 bricks.

Good afternoon.

Region: Kirov region, Kirov.

Expert advice is required. I am planning to build a house, a foundation ( monolithic slab, 300 mm high) is poured in August. According to the project, a house from gas silicate block D 500, thickness 400 mm + vent. gap + 120 mm facing ceramic brick. According to the project, the foundation was: reinforced concrete monolithic piles (diameter 350 mm, depth 2500 mm) with a binding of a monolithic reinforced concrete grillage.

Geological surveys on the site did not, the level ground water high (GWL is high not only on my site, the neighbors have the same story, who have cellars or cellars in the house, everyone has water in the cellars and cellars). The soil on the site is the following pie: a fertile layer, 70-80 cm sand with a small presence of clay, then comes dense clay (I don’t know how smart it is called).

When they began to make the foundation, they made two test wells 2.5 m deep at different corners of the perimeter of the house, at a distance of 2-3 m from the foundation boundary. In one well, as soon as they were drilled, water began to flow from the very bottom. In another, approximately at a distance of 60 - 80 cm from the surface of the earth, a liquid mass of sand and mud from the wall of the pit began to flow into the well, more than half of the well was filled in 30 minutes. The builders contacted the designer, consulted and decided to make a monolithic slab.

The composition of the slab is as follows: 22 - 25 cm sand, spilled and compacted, then technical film, as a waterproofing, and so that cement milk does not run away when pouring concrete, then 50 mm polyspan insulation, then two rows of reinforcement with a cell of 20 x 20 cm, concrete grade M 250, volume 40.5 cubic meters. Concrete was poured within 3 - 4 hours using a concrete pump, compacted with a deep vibrator. The reinforcement in the foundation is as follows: d 14 mm - 666 kg, d 12 mm - 569 kg, d 10 mm - 1108 kg, d 8 mm - was used to connect two rows of reinforcement. Initially, the reinforcement was purchased for the foundation, which was in the project. When it became clear that it was necessary to make a plate, which had already been purchased, then I bought it in addition with a diameter of 10 mm. 14 and 12 fittings were placed in the bottom row, 12 and 10 in the top row.

The size foundation slab 9500 x 13780, thickness 300. The house according to the project is one-story, with attic floor and built-in garage. The total area of the house is 150 sq.m, of which the garage is 33.4 sq.m.

- this foundation is able to withstand the house, if instead of gas silicate blocks, the bearing walls of the house will be of the following composition: ordinary hollow silicate stone SKRPu ("Kirov Brick Plant", website: http://kz43.ru), M 150 size 250 * 120 * 138 , in 1.5 bricks (masonry thickness 380 mm) + 100 mm insulation (in two rows of 50 mm foam, polystyrene or polystyrene) + 120 mm facing ceramic brick?
- for the city of Kirov (Kirov region), masonry for heat saving will be enough: 380 mm hollow silicate stone 250 * 120 * 138 (1.5 bricks) + 100 mm insulation (in two rows of 50 mm foam, polyspan or foam plastic) + 120 mm facing ceramic bricks? Is it better to put insulation in two layers of 50 mm or in one row of 100 mm?
- in the wall indicated by the composition, where will the dew point be? It may be that the dew point will be in the middle of the foam, polystyrene or polystyrene, and what negative consequences in this case will be for the insulation and the wall? Would it not be superfluous if, in the facing masonry, left unfilled vertical seams (as ventilation gaps) between the bricks, in the lower and upper parts of the facade walls?
- I read your answers to earlier questions asked, what kind of ventilation should be in the house so that there is no dampness in the rooms on two floors? What diameter and what to make ventilation ducts? What other measures need to be taken on the 1st floor and on the attic to prevent dampness and mold in the premises?
- will it be necessary to do heating in the garage, because the wall between the garage and the house is not insulated, will the wall freeze if there is no heating in the garage? If the wall between the garage and the house is made of solid one-and-a-half bricks (it is stronger than hollow silicate stone, the fastener holds better), will the wall freeze through?
- if the very first row of bricks is placed 6-7 cm above the foundation, and then the cladding will be laid on it (in order to hide 50 mm of the upper part of the foundation insulation, well, to slightly increase the total area of the house), as a result, load-bearing walls will expand slightly in width when the floor slabs are laid between the 1st and 2nd floors, the width and length of the slabs will be enough to cover the first floor, will there be no gap?
- according to the data provided, you can calculate how much materials are needed for the construction of the indicated house: facing bricks (red, white, chocolate); silicate stone ordinary hollow SKRPu M 150 size 250 * 120 * 138 (in 1.5 bricks, masonry thickness 380 mm); insulation (in two rows of 50 mm or one row of 100 mm).

We continue our traditional series of articles from Yuri Voedilo (professional builder-repairman). Yuri writes:

Recently, heating prices have been rising tremendously, so many people pay great attention to external wall insulation. Therefore, I decided to pay attention to this topic. This article will focus on the insulation of external walls. brick house facing brick. Next, we will talk about the tricks of laying the brick itself and the need loose insulation. Also, in the article we will give examples of laying out the arch.

The house lined with ceramic bricks has a very pleasant and tidy appearance. But only on condition that the brick is laid correctly, that is, the seams must be even and clean, and the brick itself is not stained with mortar and does not have cracks.

Stage 1. Mortar for laying facing bricks

To work, we need the following tools:

Construction trowel;
Building level;
Thread or fishing line
Twig 8-12 mm (square section);
Bulgarian with a circle on concrete;
Cement, sand;
Polyfoam in loose form.

First, let's prepare the solution. All by standard scheme one part cement grade 400 and three parts sand, preferably not river sand, since the solution on river sand sets very quickly. But if you don’t have any other sand, then add a plasticizer to the solution, you can buy it at any hardware store. The density of the mortar should be such that it can be easily picked up with a trowel and applied to the brick. More and more often, different types of pigments (special dyes) are added to the mortar on which the bricklaying will be carried out. That's why a little advice: before buying a brick, consider the combination of the color of the brick with the color of the seam itself. In our case, the client wanted classic color seam, that is, gray.

Stage 2. Laying ceramic (facing) bricks

There is a lot of information on the Internet about how a brick is laid, so I think it’s not worth writing about the basic principles. But there is not so much about the features of laying ceramic bricks, because. high-quality insulation brick houses require special attention.

Work will begin with laying out the corners. Masonry from facing brick only need to be waterproofed. To do this, use roofing material or thick polyethylene film. In our case, the waterproofing was built into the foundation itself, so we started laying the masonry directly on top of the foundation. Stepping back from the main wall 4-5 centimeters, we will produce masonry. We retreat these 4-5 cm for the air gap, I will explain why later. It is necessary to lay ceramics in the same way as ordinary bricks, but only under a metal twig with a section of 8 by 8 or 10 by 10, 12 by 12 millimeters.

And the way it is done: a metal twig lies directly on the masonry itself along the front edge of the brick, and a solution is applied near it. In such a way that the thickness of the applied solution near the twig itself should not be higher than the twig itself. And on the back side, the solution was ten millimeters higher. This effect is easy to achieve if the mortar is cut along a twig with a construction trowel, while holding the trowel at an angle.

A vertical seam is applied in the same way, only the twig is placed vertically to the end side of the brick (poke). The twig itself will not stand, so you have to hold it while applying the solution.

Note: after about 2-3 hours of work, you need to wipe the seams with a small brush. At the same time, if there are holes or scuffs in the seams, then be sure to cover them! Otherwise, when the temperature drops +/- degrees, water will get there and, when frozen, it will tear the seam, and after a while the brick itself. All drops of the solution from the wall must also be wiped with a rag, as it will be much harder to wipe after drying. By the way, after a while, white spots may appear on the wall. This is the salt that was in the sand. There is nothing terrible here, it is easily wiped with a rag, well, or you need to wait until the rain washes it off.

Laying facing bricks is a painstaking process that requires accuracy. Therefore, be patient.

Stage 3. Making a frame for a brick arch

In order to lay out an arch from a brick, we first need to make a frame under it. We don't need beauty here. The main thing is strength and even bending. We take a USB sheet 10 mm thick and cut out two half-moon strips with a width of at least 6 centimeters using a jigsaw. The length and bend of the crescents is individual for each window.

Next, these crescents need to be twisted together, as shown in the photo below. We use old bars for this, their thickness can be different, but the width is the same from 10 to 12 centimeters. And the length is equal to the height of our windows.

We insert the bars between two crescents and twist them with self-tapping screws 45 mm long, after which the frame is ready for use.

Stage 4. Making an arch

Having installed the frame on the place where the arched window will be, we begin to overlay the frame with a brick on top.

Only now we will lay the brick not horizontally, but vertically with the bond side on the face of the masonry. But since the length of the brick is 25 cm, and the width of our masonry is 17 cm (brick width 12.5 cm + air gap 4-5 cm), then the brick will have to be cut to length. For cutting bricks, we will use a grinder with a diamond wheel for concrete.

The adjoining bricks of the main wall will also need to be cut at an angle. The arch should be in relation to the main wall along the plane at the same level or protrude outward by 2-4 cm, here it is a matter of the client's taste. After a day, three arch frame can be safely disassembled. The arch is ready.

Stage 5. Insulation of the brick walls of the house with foam plastic from the outside

We will still fill the air gap that we left between the main wall and the ceramic brick. This is an integral part of lining the house with facing bricks with insulation. The next question is: what should be the insulation between the brick wall and the facing brick? To do this, we decided to use loose foam, which is sold in bags. Why exactly him, and not sheet foam?

Here's why. The first advantage: if the walls of the building were not even for some reason, then the loose foam plastic will not react during backfilling. But with the sheet will have to suffer. The second advantage: mice can get into the foam sheet and make a lot of moves and holes for themselves. In loose foam, it is impossible to make moves, since mice do not have the opportunity to climb on it. Raking with their paws, they sharpen like a truck in the mud, staying in place.

Before filling the foam into the wall, you need to close the gaps around the perimeter of windows and doors with mineral wool or sheet foam. Moreover, the latter is better, since when puttying the slopes on the foam, it will be easier to apply the putty.

Note: in order to insulate the walls of a brick house without excesses outside in windy weather, I do not advise you to fill up the foam. All the foam will scatter around your yard at best, and at worst even sweep your neighbors.

Attention! We received a review that with such insulation during the year, the foam filled up in this way can sag at three meters of the height of the house about 60-70 cm. There was an experience of dismantling such walls. As experience shows, the insulation of voids gives a small effect. In this material, the photo showed that they had the opportunity to attach ordinary foam to the walls, even with glue-foam. And then lay the masonry. The difference in the price of materials is not significant.
This can be corrected by blowing perlite into the voids formed in the upper part of the masonry.

Yuri, the author of the article replies: To provide for shrinkage, we rammed the foam crumb through each meter of height. In addition, for backfilling in two or three years, it is enough to remove the hemming and make topping up. And yet, the difference in price is not significant, but there are two but ... 1. In such foam, mice start up three times less often and not for long, since it is not convenient for them to make moves there and they simply fall down. 2. When using sheet foam, a more or less even surface is needed, for bulk it is useless.

o-builder.com

Brick wall insulation options

If we are talking about brick walls, then there are a lot of options for their insulation, but all of them can be divided into three groups based on location:

Internal location. Insulation is mounted on the wall inside the room.
Insulation of walls between brickwork. Thermal insulation material is placed between the layers of bricks.
External or facade insulation. There are options here: wet, when the insulation is mounted on the wall and covered with plaster, and dry, when hinged facade structures are used.

Let's take a quick look at these options.

Internal layout

This is the most inefficient and even harmful method, since it cuts off the supporting structures from heating, which leads to a number of problems. negative consequences. The only justification for this method of insulation brick wall from within is the impossibility of other options.

Here is a list of disadvantages of the internal location of the insulation:

External walls that are the main load-bearing structures buildings are cut off from the heating system, as a result of which they freeze completely, which leads to premature wear and aging of materials;
Brickwork has a limited resource of freeze-thaw cycles, and once outside the heated zone, it develops this resource much faster;
The internal location shifts the dew point, which leads to condensation directly on the surface of the wall or in the thickness of the insulation, as a result - fungus, mold, corrosion and other troubles;
The useful internal volume of the premises is reduced;
It becomes difficult to hang furniture and other accessories on the walls.

This is far from full list, but it is quite enough to verify the failure of this method of insulation. Of course, it is more convenient and comfortable to work indoors, the price of work is falling, but this is a weak excuse for violating building axioms.

Advice!
Of course, insulate the wall high-rise building at high altitude with your own hands is not easy, but it is better to spend money once on professional installers than to suffer for years later.

Interlayer arrangement

This is enough effective method location of insulation.

However, there are some points to be noted here:

It is possible to carry out such insulation only at the construction stage, since otherwise it will be too expensive and unreasonably time-consuming;
All work must be carried out just perfectly, since you will not have the opportunity to dismantle and redo it;
Repair or replacement of insulation is very difficult, if not impossible.

If this list does not scare you, then move on. How to choose a heater for brickwork? There are several options here: bulk materials, solid boards and mineral wool.

The first method is the cheapest, but also the most inefficient. In addition, it is quite laborious, as it requires well masonry and other nuances. There is also a danger of dampness of the bulk insulation and the loss of its thermal insulation qualities.

When choosing plate insulation, you should be guided by the following principles: the material must have low hygroscopicity, and it is better to be hydrophobic, and it must also keep its shape well. And, of course, have a long service life.

Several materials fit these requirements: polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, foam glass, dense basalt wool.

It is also worth mentioning one more rule: the insulation is located as close as possible to the outer layer. That is, you build a wall using ceramic building bricks or double silicate brick M 150, insulate it with a layer of thermal insulation in accordance with the rules for installing a particular material, and then lay out the facing layer of masonry in half a brick. This instruction is the most correct.

Important!
When using mineral wool, it is advised to leave a small gap of 1 - 2 centimeters between the insulation and the brick facing layer.
This will allow moisture to be removed from the insulation according to the same principle as in a ventilated facade.

Of all the materials listed, extruded polystyrene foam is the most suitable, since this material:

not afraid of moisture
does not absorb it
strong enough to compress
not afraid of pests
biological or electrochemical corrosion,
has a long shelf life.

External insulation

Facade insulation seems to be the most acceptable.

Firstly, it can be produced both during the construction process and on the old wall.
Secondly, this is a fairly simple procedure that does not require special skills and abilities.
Thirdly, the external location of thermal insulation is most acceptable from the point of view of thermal physics, since it does not shift the dew point inside the structure.

Finally, you always have access to the thermal insulation layer, and you can replace it or make any local repairs.

At facade insulation There are two main methods: wet and dry. The first involves the location of the insulation under the layer facade plaster or putty, which is applied wet.

The second method involves the use of hinged facade structures, such as siding, blockhouse or a ventilated facade of a classic design.

Each of these methods has disadvantages and advantages, but in general, the wet method is more popular, as it is easier to perform and cheaper. On the other hand, a ventilated facade is more durable and allows any local repair by replacing one panel or insulation board.

Conclusion

The main factor in wall insulation is the location of the insulation. The internal does not seem acceptable, but the intra-wall allows you to preserve the external aesthetics and tectonics of the brickwork, which is important for many connoisseurs. In the presented video in this article you will find Additional information on this topic.

klademkirpich.ru

Masonry with insulation: types, advantages and disadvantages

The technological process for the construction of a brick building with insulating material inside is classified according to the place where the insulation is attached. Lightweight well technique includes two independent designs, inside fastened with small horizontal brick bridges or Styrofoam. Brick laying with insulation offers the following advantages:

The thickness of the insulation does not exceed the thickness of the structure.
The material inside is non-flammable.
Outside, the masonry looks like a brick wall, which allows you to decorate the structure.
Can be built at any time.

Despite all the advantages, double-layer walls have a number of disadvantages:

require a large amount of work;
it is necessary to constantly monitor the condition of the insulation inside;
thermal uniformity at a low level;
bridges keep cold;
difficult to repair.

With a three-layer construction, a facing brick can be a vapor barrier.

Another option for using an insulating element in the brickwork process is a three-layer construction. In this case, panels that retain heat are used. The insulation is attached through the use of anchors. Devices are pre-fixed in the wall. When using this technology, a vapor barrier is required to prevent condensation. It can be made from facing bricks or decorative stone is used.

It is dangerous to insulate walls in three layers, because such structures are subject to rapid deformation.

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What material is used to insulate the house?

Thermal insulation during construction brick structures can be carried out using different materials. The following are most commonly used:

mineral wool;
expanded polystyrene;
glass wool.

Sometimes slag is used for external walls, which is poured into the cavity between the walls. Such insulation for brickwork is better in that it improves the strength of the structure. When choosing how to insulate a building, it is necessary to pay attention to such qualities:

Styrofoam can be used when it is important not to overload the foundation.

Resistant to deformation. The thermal insulation product must not change in size or structure under the influence of weather conditions. This is especially true if the front part is insulated.
Moisture resistance. Masonry with insulation inside should be carried out with materials that do not absorb moisture. In this regard, it is better to use fiberglass.
Do not overload the foundation. The "brick-styrofoam-brick" technique is especially effective.
Do not require complex design and installation work. Insulation with polystyrene foam is simple and fast.

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How to calculate the thickness of insulation for brickwork?

Wall insulation in 2 bricks must be carried out with exact calculation quantities necessary materials. To minimize unnecessary costs and make one and a half bricks warmer, it is necessary to accurately calculate the thickness of the insulation. Each building material that is used to build exterior walls has its own characteristics. The main requirements on the basis of which the material for insulation is selected are presented in the table:

Penoplex is a material that insulates the house according to the same principle as polystyrene foam.

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Preparatory activities

For work, you can buy penoplex.

Before installing the insulation between the block and the brick, preparations must be made. After purchasing and calculating the material, it is important to collect the following tools and consumables:

brick;
masonry mix;
mesh for reinforcement;
material for thermal insulation (concrete, crushed stone);
insulation (polystyrene, foam plastic);
plaster for facing with bricks;
trowel;
putty knife;
plumb;
building level;
solution container;
anchor.

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Construction stages

Insulated masonry walls in one brick with a front fragment finish is the best way to improve the characteristics of the base material and keep the house warm. The algorithm of actions depends on the chosen construction technology. Layered masonry using effective insulation involves the implementation of several stages of work:

The three-layer design begins with the calculation of the corners.
After that, the anchors are fixed.
A heater is installed.
The vapor barrier is installed.
The facing brick is laid out.

If it is planned to complete the insulation work after the construction of brick walls, the front material is not laid out. Typically, this tactic is chosen for the less costly foam method. Then Finishing work finish after fixing the material. With sequential execution of the stages and the presence quality material can not only save heat, but also improve the strength characteristics of the structure.

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Types of masonry walls with insulation inside

There are two types of brick walls with insulation inside. The first method is the so-called lightweight well masonry, consisting of two independent brick walls.

To increase the strength of the structure, they are interconnected by horizontal brick bridges. And the formed hollow wells inside them are filled with heat-insulating material.

The second method involves the construction of a three-layer wall structure. In this case, the brick wall is lined with tiled heat-insulating material, on top of which the third layer is laid out - facing brick. However, due to the fact that cases of destruction of buildings erected using this technology have become more frequent, since 2008 its use in Russia has been prohibited.

A technological technique using a lightweight well type makes it possible not only to increase the thermal inertia of a brick wall, but also to significantly reduce the construction estimate.

When conducting low-rise construction, it will be enough to do wall partition 1.5 bricks to achieve the required bearing strength. And the heat resistance of the building is ensured by the insulation of the walls.

Using a combination of brickwork with insulation allows you to achieve:

significant savings in building materials;
reducing the load on the foundation;
cost reduction compared to traditional brickwork;
reducing heat loss by almost half.

Wall construction technology with insulation inside

Well lightweight brickwork is not a new invention. It rather belongs to the undeservedly forgotten building technologies. Due to its cost-effectiveness and high energy saving, it has recently gained quite a lot of popularity.

In order to increase the stability of load-bearing walls with this type of construction, hollow wells are constructed in them by the method of filling bonded bricks from the outer and inner layers of masonry. Such wells are made in the form of a transverse wall, the thickness of which is ½ brick and with a distance between them of 2-4 bricks. The resulting voids are filled with lightweight concrete, slag, expanded clay or other heat-insulating material.

Necessary tools and materials:

brick;
masonry mortar;
mesh for reinforcement;
heat-insulating material (expanded clay, concrete, crushed stone, sand);
polystyrene (optional);
plaster mixture for exterior decoration;
trowel;
plumb;
putty knife.

To perform well masonry, you must:

Work should begin at the corner of the inner and outer walls.
During the process, the angles and locations of the vertical internal partitions laid out with pokes.
Longitudinal walls should be laid out in a row of spoons.
The laying of the transverse walls of the wells is carried out by poking.
Ligation of the transverse wall with the longitudinal one is carried out through a row in height.
After 4-5 rows of walls are laid out, insulation is poured into the well. In this case, you can use such insulating material as sand, crushed stone, expanded clay. It is laid between the walls in layers of 10-15 cm, while ramming is good. Every 30-50 cm inside the well, the insulation is poured with a solution. To prevent it from settling, horizontal jumpers are made every 30-60 cm. In some cases, it makes sense to use external and internal walls lay wells with foam panels. This will prevent wetting of the insulation. For this, foam with a thickness of 30 to 50 mm is suitable.
The wall installation is being completed brick partitions solid masonry in three or four rows with the obligatory laying of a reinforcing mesh in the last row.

Some types of masonry outer side houses must be plastered. This also applies to the well method. The use of heat-resistant plaster will further strengthen the structure, insulate the building and prevent moisture from entering the heat-insulating material.

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Technology of insulation and wall cladding

The brick cladding technique with insulation is quite complicated and includes several main steps:

Below we will get acquainted with the main nuances of work at each of these stages.

Selection and preparation of materials

Before starting work on wall insulation and its further finishing, it is necessary to determine the type of insulation. Currently, there are quite a few heat-insulating materials, however, for the purposes voiced, the following heat insulators are most often used:

mineral mats are an environmentally friendly and durable material that is absolutely fireproof. The disadvantage of mats is high level moisture absorption and relatively high cost. In addition, keep in mind that the fibers of mineral mats, if they get on the skin, mucous membranes or in the respiratory tract, cause irritation, therefore, when working with this material, it is necessary to use personal protective equipment;

polystyrene foam - is a lightweight material that has a much lower level of moisture absorption than mineral wool and at the same time is cheaper. However, keep in mind that Styrofoam is less durable, moreover, it supports the combustion process and is toxic in case of fire;
extruded polystyrene foam - is a type of conventional polystyrene, but it is more durable and durable, as well as zero moisture absorption, therefore, in terms of performance, it is also excellent for a wall under a facing brick. The disadvantage, in addition to toxicity and fire hazard, is the high cost.

The thickness of insulation for walls made of brick or other materials depends on the climate in your area. If the temperature in winter often drops below 25 degrees Celsius, a 150 mm thick insulation should be used. If you live in a warmer climate, 100 mm thick insulation is enough.

As you can see, all materials have their own advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, everyone must decide for himself which better insulation use.

In addition to the insulation, it is necessary to prepare other materials. You will need:

antiseptic primer for wall treatment (if the walls are wooden, you will need a protective impregnation for wood;
vapor barrier film;
dowel umbrellas;
flexible connections (anchors that allow not only to fix the insulation, but also to connect the load-bearing wall with the facing);

Wall preparation

The next step is to prepare the walls. To do this, you need to do the following with your own hands:

start work by dismantling all existing attachments. These can be antennas, all kinds of visors, ebbs, window sills and other details that will interfere with the insulation and decoration of the facade;
if the facade has peeling and crumbling areas, they must be removed. To do this, you can use a chisel and a cloth;
if the house is wooden, log or timber, it is necessary to insulate the intervention gaps. To do this, you can use the tow, mounting foam, latex sealant or other suitable thermal insulation;
after that, the walls must be treated with a protective deep-penetrating composition or impregnation for wood. Instructions for use of the compositions are always available on the packaging.

If the house is newly built, you can start warming and cladding after completion. interior decoration, i.e. after the walls are dry. Otherwise, the wall material will absorb moisture, which will lead to a number of negative consequences, such as wetting of the insulation, mold, etc.

This completes the work on the preparation of the facade.

wall insulation

The next step is the installation of insulation. I must say that the insulation is often mounted on flexible connections in the process of erecting a facing wall. However, it is more convenient to first “grab” the plates with dowels, and then build a wall and establish flexible connections.

Regardless of what type of insulation you will use for thermal insulation of walls, the instructions for its installation look like this:

First of all, you need to waterproof the blind area. To do this, you can smear it bituminous mastic and then glue roofing material to it. The latter should overlap by about 10 cm, and the joints should also be smeared with bituminous mastic.
I must say that instead of roofing felt, you can use other rolled waterproofing materials, however, roofing material is the most budgetary solution;
now you need to fix the insulation on the wall. To do this, use special dowels, which are popularly called umbrellas or fungi. Installation of insulation should start from the corner, and perform it in rows.

During the installation process, make sure that there are no gaps between the insulation plates, as well as between the insulation and the waterproofed blind area.

To fix the thermal insulation, simply press it against the wall and drill holes for the dowels through the slabs. After that, insert umbrellas into the holes and hammer expansion nails into them.

To begin with, in order to simply “grab” the thermal insulation, a pair of dowels per plate is enough;

now fix it on the heater vapor barrier membrane, placing it overlapping. To attach the film, also use dowels umbrellas.
If you line the walls with clinker facing bricks, then vapor barrier can be omitted, since this material has an almost zero moisture absorption coefficient.

People are often interested in the forums - do I need a heater between gas silicate and brick? Despite the fact that gas silicate itself has a low thermal conductivity, additional insulation will make housing even more comfortable and energy-saving.

It should be noted that according to this scheme, insulation is installed only on monolithic, brick and wooden walls. If the walls are made of aerated concrete, the work is carried out somewhat differently:

first of all, you need to mark the location of flexible connections, taking into account the fact that they should be laid in horizontal seams between bricks. Therefore, from the foundation, count the height of the brick.
Anchors should be located in increments of about 50 centimeters, both vertically and horizontally;
now you need to drill holes in the diameter and length of the tips (sleeves) of flexible connections;

after that, it is necessary to screw the tips of the anchors into the holes using a special key. In this case, the sleeves must be completely immersed in aerated concrete;
further, a heater should be pricked onto the protruding flexible connections. Install it so that there are no gaps between the plates;
after that, fix the vapor barrier membrane on top of the insulation, which is also pricked on the anchor;
at the end of the work, fix the insulation and vapor barrier film clamps that are put on the anchor and snap into place, thus pressing the vapor and heat insulation against the wall.

Vapor barrier in aerated concrete house it is necessary to install not only between the block and the brick, but also from the inside, i.e. from the side of the room.

After installing the insulation, you can start laying bricks.

The nuances of laying a facing wall

First of all, I note that the facing wall is heavy enough, so it must be built on the foundation. If the foundation of the house was not originally designed for the construction of a facing wall, an additional strip shallow foundation must be made around the perimeter of the house.

On our portal you can find detailed information about how it's done. The only thing to keep in mind is that there should be a space of several centimeters between the insulation and the facing wall.

Before laying bricks, it is necessary to waterproof the foundation. To do this, lay several layers of roofing material on top of it. Further work carried out in the following sequence:

work begins with laying the first row. In this case, beacons and a building level are necessarily used, ensuring an even arrangement of the row;
if flexible connections were not installed in advance, a hole is drilled in the wall above the first row of bricks to the required depth and an anchor is driven into it. After that, a limiter is put on the anchor, which additionally holds the thermal insulation;

the end of the flexible connection is laid between the bricks to a depth of about 10 cm. To do this, a solution is laid directly on it;
in the second row, blowouts are performed. To do this, every two bricks leave a vertical seam that is not filled with mortar;

according to this principle, the entire facing wall is erected, taking into account the fact that flexible connections should be located in increments of 50 cm vertically and horizontally. In addition, they are installed around the perimeter of window and door openings;
in the top row of bricks, i.e. under the overhangs, airflows are carried out according to the scheme described above. This is necessary to ensure ventilation of the space between the wall and the insulation.

Here, in fact, is all the information on how the walls are insulated under the facing brick. The only thing, in the end, I note that the cladding process itself is quite complicated, requiring high qualifications from the bricklayer, so it’s better to entrust this stage work for specialists. True, the price of this service is also not small - on average, it starts from 800 rubles per square meter.

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Features of brick walls

In modern realities, a ceramic wall hollow brick 60 cm does not retain heat enough. Only increased masonry, which creates an additional load on the foundation, or the use of insulation create the conditions for meeting modern building codes and help improve the performance of the building.

According to Russian building codes, for the Moscow region, the required wall thickness of ceramic hollow bricks should be one and a half meters. Applying 10 cm of expanded polystyrene outside, we get a 35 cm thick masonry that meets the requirements.

The walls are made of hollow or solid bricks. When laying, various solutions are used. And the masonry structure can be both solid and with an air pocket (well). Hence the different requirements for wall thickness and insulation. Insulation of brick walls requires the calculation of the heat-insulating layer in terms of thickness and method of placement, taking into account all factors.

How to properly insulate a brick house? For solid masonry - it is recommended to insulate from the side of the street. The thickness and type of thermal insulation depends on the characteristics of the building envelope, climate zone and the required heat resistance of the pie wall. If the masonry is well, insulation can be done inside, between bricks or external insulation. The presence of heat-insulating material in the layer reduces the heat loss of the building, but there is a risk of moisture accumulation.

The material for insulation and the thickness are selected based on the dew point and taking into account the vapor permeability of the layers of the finished wall structure.

Algorithm of actions for warming a brick house

The instructions for insulating a brick structure are as follows:

Choose the appropriate insulation that is present in your area.
Pick up finishing material to which you want to close the thermal insulation.
Choose a facade system where the previously selected insulation and finish are used.
Determine the required value of heat transfer resistance of enclosing structures in your area. To do this, you need to know the number of degree-days in your area. For example, for Moscow, the thermal resistance coefficient of a wall is at least 3.2 m2 × ° С / W.
Next, use the calculator for calculating insulation (for example, smartcalc.ru), where you enter the layers future wall. By the way, the calculator for many regions already contains data on the required heat resistance coefficient and degree-day, you just need to select the city of construction.
If the wall is not warm enough according to the calculator, then either increase the thickness of the insulation, or replace it with another one with a better thermal conductivity. If the building is just being built, then it is possible to replace the masonry mortar with a warm one, which will also give an increase in heat resistance.
When the wall turned out to be warm according to the calculator, that is, not less than the required heat resistance coefficient, then a check is made for the vapor permeability of the layers.
If the vapor permeability of the layers satisfies the requirement to increase the vapor permeability of the layers from the room towards the street, then proceed to work.

An example of a brick wall with insulation from the outside, see at the end of the article

Heaters suitable for a brick house

When choosing the best insulation, you need to consider the characteristics of each material. Thermal conductivity predetermines desired thickness layer. Durability, performance, naturalness are also important. Some of the materials can insulate a brick house from the outside, while others are used inside. The following popular types are used.

Sprayed (polyurethane foam, ecowool).

Polyurethane foam initially - liquid components that are applied to vertical surface for maximum thermal insulation. Before insulating a brick house from the outside, a frame is constructed into which it is poured and trimmed with cladding. And also fill the cavities in the walls with polyurethane foam.
Ecowool (cellulose wadding) — a product of processing of secondary paper raw materials. Being harmless to humans, resistant to microbes and fungi, not flammable, impregnated with flame retardants (substances that prevent ignition).

Plate heaters

Stone wool, expanded polystyrene foam, slab foam glass are also insulated with extruded polystyrene foam. Basalt fiber slabs are a fire-resistant insulation that reduces heating costs.

Foam glass - insulation with a cellular structure. Produced in the form of plates and blocks. And also does not burn, it is environmentally safe, it is not affected by fungi, bacteria. Learn more about this material by reading our article.

Insulation of a brick house with foam plastic is a reduced thermal conductivity of the walls, easy installation and relatively low cost. Disadvantages - combustibility with the release of harmful substances, brittleness.

Insulation of the house with foam plastic - effective heat retention, strength, resistance to moisture penetration inside. Extruded polystyrene foam (which is also penoplex) is used to insulate buildings, increasing thermal resistance. The material does not crumble and is resistant to biological contamination. Most often used in the basement area.

Rolled (glass wool, linen insulation).

It is inexpensive and easy to insulate a house with glass wool, it perfectly insulates. For mounting on the wall, a crate is made, then cotton wool is installed. The house lined with cotton wool is covered with a windproof material and then with a finishing material.

Linen insulation (mats) usually does not contain artificial additives, is treated with fire-fighting substances, is environmentally friendly and safe.

Jellied and filling (penoizol, expanded clay, vermiculite, perlite).

Expanded clay is a material with a thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.10 - 0.18 W / (m K), applicable for intra-wall insulation. The walls are erected to a certain height with a gap between them, where expanded clay is poured, after which the construction continues. Similarly, perlite (mountain volcanic rock), vermiculite (a mineral with a layered structure) is used. Penoizol is a type of foam that is pumped liquid into the cavity of structures.

Building decoration

Having chosen a heater, you need to consider the possibility of using one or another finish, behind which it will be hidden. Finish options are as follows:

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Before starting brick construction, you need to decide on the type of masonry and what kind of type will be used for construction. Considering big choice bricks and various masonry methods, this question can confuse a novice builder.

What you should pay attention to when choosing the type of masonry and brick

When choosing the type of masonry, factors such as:

(this is primarily affected by the number of storeys of the building).

Climate. In addition to the necessary strength, the walls must also provide acceptable thermal insulation.

aesthetic component. Single-brick masonry looks much more elegant than one-and-a-half or double brick masonry.

As for the thickness of the wall, it can vary from 12 to 64 cm:

laying in half a brick (its thickness is 12 cm);
in 1 brick (25 cm);
1.5 bricks (38 cm);
2.0 bricks (51 cm);
2.5 bricks (64 cm).

With regard to load-bearing walls, it is worth noting that in a temperate climate, a thickness of 2.0 - 2.5 bricks is usually used. Since the brick itself conducts heat well, after construction it is recommended to additionally insulate it with, for example, mineral wool.

In terms of strength, in most cases a wall thickness of 38 cm is sufficient.

The thickness of the external load-bearing brick walls usually ranges from 51 cm (2 bricks) to 64 cm (2.5 bricks). In multi-storey construction, it is allowed to reduce the thickness of the load-bearing outer walls in height. If at the level of the 1st floor the thickness of the wall is 2.5 bricks, then starting from the 5th - 6th floor its thickness decreases to 2.0 bricks. The increase in thermal conductivity is compensated by a larger layer of thermal insulation.

At low-rise construction it is not recommended to arrange load-bearing walls with a thickness of less than 2.0 bricks. During the construction of private one-story outbuildings saving material and money comes to the fore, so the thickness of the load-bearing outer walls can be reduced to 1.5 bricks or less.

With regard to internal load-bearing walls and partitions, the following recommendations exist:

for load-bearing walls inside the house, as a rule, masonry is used with a thickness of at least 1 brick (25 cm);
in addition to internal load-bearing walls, partitions are also distinguished - they do not experience loads from load-bearing elements, the main purpose of such structures is simply to divide the room into separate zones. In this case, a laying of 0.5 bricks (12 cm) is used. As a result, the wall is not rigid enough, in order to eliminate this drawback, it is reinforced with ordinary wire, placing it in mortar joints.

For partitions, gas or foam concrete is often used to save money.

Brick thickness, which brick should be chosen for construction

In modern brick construction, single, one-and-a-half and double bricks are distinguished. The dimensions of a single ordinary brick are 250x12x65 mm, it was put into use in the 1st half of the last century (in 1925 this standard size was fixed in normative documentation). A little later, one and a half and double bricks began to be used, their size is 250x120x88 and 250x120x138. From a cost point of view, it is much more efficient to use double or one and a half bricks for exterior walls.

For example, when laying 2.5 bricks, the best option would be to use double bricks for laying a wall of 2.0 bricks and facing bricks for laying the remaining 0.5 bricks. If an ordinary single brick is used for the same volume of construction, then the costs will be 25 - 35% higher.

Another important factor influencing the choice of brick type is its thermal conductivity. According to this parameter, the brick loses to many building materials, for example, wood.

The thermal conductivity of an ordinary solid brick is about 0.6 - 0.7 W / m ° C, this figure can be reduced by 2.5 - 3 times through the use of hollow bricks. In this case, the brick conducts heat much worse, but at the same time its strength decreases. Therefore, the use of hollow bricks for load-bearing walls is not possible in all cases.

Economically justified thickness of the outer wall of bricks

It is considered economically inexpedient to build walls with a thickness of more than 38 cm from solid bricks. In order to keep warm in the house use various ways insulation.

Quite often (especially in low-rise construction), lightweight masonry is used (like a well). With this method of construction, 2 brick walls of 0.5 bricks are built at a short distance from each other. The air gap between them plays the role of an excellent heat insulator, because air does not conduct heat well. Rigidity similar design provided by diaphragms that unite the walls.

With this method of construction, the walls are necessarily joined by diaphragms.

The resulting cavity between the walls can be filled with foam concrete, expanded clay and other heat insulating materials.

If such constructive solution combined with external and internal wall insulation, then brick building becomes economically viable.

When choosing the thickness of brick walls, it should be remembered that this material has excellent strength properties, but has a large inertia. This means that brick is best suited for the construction of residential buildings, only slight daily temperature fluctuations will be observed during the day. If it is planned to build from brick country house, in which periodic residence is planned in the winter, it will warm up slowly.