Replacement of assemblies on heating risers. Central heating riser: characteristics, installation requirements, material selection options and shutdown procedure. Stage #3

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Plumbing issues should always be approached as responsibly as possible, because improper installation threatens to turn into constant heat loss and leaks. However, the right approach will allow you to painlessly replace it in an apartment building, country or other residential premises.

Material selection

If we consider the most popular material, it turns out that nothing is used more often than reinforced polypropylene and metal-plastic pipes.

What is the rationale for this choice?

Replacing the heating riser in the apartment is done quickly, since it is not necessary to weld the pipes one to the other.
Pipes made of these materials are easy to bend, so they can be easily built into any corners and rooms.
The components are relatively light in weight, so there is no problem of transportation even to the highest floors.

From all sides, the selected materials look almost ideal, but they do not respond well to changes in pressure in the pipes. So, if it jumps sharply from the standard 5 atmospheres to 10, then the pipes may not withstand, which will lead to a small flood and call a mechanic in an emergency.

In addition, these materials do not withstand the coldest seasons, when you have to heat the batteries as much as possible. Plastic can start to crack and leak, so the best option is to install galvanized pipes.

What you need to start working with galvanized materials

First of all, galvanized pipes DU20 are purchased in the right quantity. In addition, a mandatory element of all work will be a welding machine, without which it is impossible to repair risers in an apartment building.

Gas welding can greatly facilitate the work, especially if the installation conditions are difficult. If you have a welding machine, you should purchase long and short threads. Shutoff valves and a radiator will be attached to them.

In addition, you will need:

three locknuts on the radiator;
three drives, which will go one at a time to the jumper and eyeliners;
two cast iron or brass tees;
two clutches;
three valves for pipe DU20.

The latter are needed to control the heat in the room, since they can block or limit the flow of water into the battery. In addition, only ball valves should be purchased, as they are the most convenient to use. See also: "How to turn off the heating in the apartment - options and methods".

Replacing heating risers in an apartment, when carried out manually, requires a die with a holder and an impeller with a cutting steel circle. So it will be possible to prepare threaded pipes right on the job site.

Beginning of work

The first question arises: how to turn off the water flow in the heating riser?

The answer to the question will be the design of bottling water in a residential building, which can be:

top;
bottom.

In the first case, you will need to turn off the water, both in the attic and in the basement. With the lower bottling, the risers are connected in pairs, so you will have to find an adjacent riser with the right one. To do this, you will have to go into the apartment from above and see the location of the jumper (read: "").

After shutting off the water, you will need to remove the plugs and drain the water. In addition, during the heating period, this operation cannot be performed if it is impossible to go to the apartment on the floor above, since it will be impossible to resume the heating cycle. The reason is simple: air will accumulate in the radiator, which cannot be released without access to the battery.

Removing the old riser

The easiest way to remove the old riser is by cutting their eyeliner with a turbine. After that, twist the locknuts and unscrew the remnants of the liner from the radiator.

In order to determine the place of cutting the riser, several facts should be taken into account:

with good relations with neighbors on the floors, you can come to their apartments and remove part of the pipe in the concrete gap, since usually all leaks occur in this area;
for the convenience of work, it is better to cut the pipe above the floor and below the ceiling, as this will leave more room for maneuver. In addition, this will facilitate the subsequent replacement of tubes if necessary.

Correct thread setting

Threading pipes may seem like a common task to an experienced specialist, but the process may be unfamiliar to a novice master locksmith.

So what do you need to pay close attention to?

Using a file or impeller, it is necessary to chamfer, after which an entry for the die will be made.
A die with a holder with a long side is put on the tube. This operation is necessary for the perpendicular entry of the die onto the pipe.
Short threads are applied to the riser, not exceeding five threads. The thread is applied strictly clockwise.
When the plate enters the edge of the tube, it is worth pressing the holder as powerfully as possible with all your might.
After cutting the first thread, it is required to hold the riser with a gas wrench. The maximum force is applied so that the rotational moment of the die can be compensated, otherwise it will be possible to strip the threads of the riser one floor above or below.
If a convector is mounted for welding, then it will not be necessary to hold the structure, since it is impossible to pull out such a riser.
It is necessary to cut a long thread on the connection to the radiator and on the bend in the jumper.
During the cutting process, a piece of the tube must be fixed with a vise in order not to destroy the structure of the already carved thread.

Riser assembly

It is necessary to assemble the riser in a strict algorithm to avoid unnecessary problems during operation. In addition, sequential execution of instructions will reduce build time and allow more attention to be paid to system testing (read also: "").

Pipes cut in the required places and having threads on both sides will need to be passed through the floors, after which they are connected by threaded couplings on the riser. As a winding, it is better to use sanitary flax with paint or silicone sealant. In addition, the replacement of the heating riser in the apartment can be carried out using a polymer thread.
The second option will be cheaper, but given that the work is done for a long time, it is better to use flax with a sealant, since the first guarantees tightness, and the second is able to level the effects of burnout and decay.
Next, you need to screw the tees onto the thread. It is worth observing a distance of 50 cm between the internal threads in order not to later mount the liner tightly. The latter looks ugly, in addition, it provides a distortion of the locknut, as a result of which a large amount of water and heat will go out.
Valves are screwed into the tees.
In the valves that cut off the radiator, it is necessary to screw in long spurs (pipes with a short thread on one side and a long one on the other). A lock nut and a radiator plug are installed on them until they stop.
It is worth mounting the jumper in the same way as the drive, namely, it is important to screw the long thread with the lock nut screwed to the end into the tee. Further, the short thread, which is combined with the thread of the valve, is wound up and screwed into the latter, but the long thread must be turned out of the tee by the length of the short analogue. The last step is to rewind and tighten the locknut.
After all the manipulations, you can proceed to connecting the radiator. It is hung on brackets so that the axes of the eyeliners coincide with the axes of the thread for the plugs (read: ""). After that, it is necessary to fit the plugs, previously wound up, into it. The same should be repeated with locknuts.

Starting the heating riser

Regardless of how many heating risers there are in the apartment, the operation to launch them always remains the same:

first, the design is tested under pressure;
then water is launched into the batteries and the riser is checked for leaks (in more detail: "").

To perform a pressure test of a structure, it is worth finding an assistant. In addition, you can take a photo of all the joints in advance, since the slightest changes will be difficult to notice at first glance, but in comparison with the initial design, it will not be difficult to find flaws (read also: "").

So, the pressure test is carried out according to the following algorithm:

A valve opens on the jumper, and its two analogues on the way to the radiator overlap. This allows you to remove the load from some threads, while at the same time fully testing the rest.
Plugs are screwed in or vents located in the basement are blocked.
A valve opens slightly on the replaced riser.
It is important to remember that if screw valves are installed, then it is necessary to open only the one that is mounted with an arrow from the filling to the dwellings. You will have to open it this way because if you do it differently, you can pull out the valve.
After the water ceases to actively circulate in the area of the ajar valve, it can be assumed that the pressure has stabilized. Both valves can then be fully opened.
Next, you need to return to the apartment and slowly open the remaining two valves to avoid the consequences of water hammer. After filling the radiator with water, it is worth inspecting all joints for water leaks.

Having completed the pressure procedures, it will be necessary to bleed air from the radiator and here, as in the previous case, you will need to perform a certain sequence of actions:

If the house has a lower bottling, then in the apartment on the floor above, the Mayevsky tap, located on the jumper between the risers, should be opened. After waiting for the current of water, you should not immediately turn off the activity, since the air may not come out immediately and remain in the water in bubbles, so it’s worth waiting a bit.
If the riser began to warm up, then we can safely say that the operation to turn it on is completed.
In the presence of an upper pouring of water, you can not take any steps at all, since the air should automatically squeeze out into a tank located in the attic. However, you can climb to the roof and release it through a special hole - an air vent. See also: "".

How to replace the heating riser in the apartment, see an example in the video:

What if the air cannot be expelled?

Unfortunately, a non-standard situation can happen and the usually working methods will be powerless. This may be due to the lack of neighbors from above or the unusual design of the house, but you should always be prepared for the fact that the resumption of heat supply to the apartment is not always possible immediately.

Experienced craftsmen use the distillation of the riser for discharge, as in most cases this allows the circulation to be restored. Manipulations are carried out either over the plugs or over the valves.

To do this, on one riser it is necessary to open the valve, and on the second riser - a vent. In this case, the air will leave the battery along with the water. If there is no result, you should perform the same steps, but in the opposite direction.

It is worth noting that this technique is especially effective if aluminum or bimetallic radiators are used in the house, since they do not trap air, unlike cast-iron counterparts, which sin by creating traffic jams, so there can be much more problems with them.

Replacing the riser in the house is not an easy task, but it is quite feasible even without special knowledge. It will be very important to use high-quality materials, because otherwise even the hand of the master will not be able to protect the heating system from leaks and heat losses (read also: ""). On the other hand, novice craftsmen should not buy the most expensive machinery and equipment, as there is a high risk of reworking the communications system, and this will lead to unnecessary financial losses.

The distribution of the heat carrier in multi-storey buildings occurs with the help of vertical pipes. They pass through all floors of the house, and radiators and batteries are connected to them. Therefore, it is necessary to consider the characteristic features that heating risers have: shutdown, replacement, thermal insulation.

Purpose of heating risers

Piping with risers is an outdated scheme. However, given the large number of old-style buildings, it is quite laborious and expensive to upgrade heating for them. Most often, it is necessary to replace the heating risers in an apartment building with more modern ones made of polymer materials or install additional thermal insulation and make repairs.

The performance of this heating element depends on the geometric dimensions and material of manufacture. The main diameter of the heating riser must be equal to the same size of the connected pipes. Otherwise, a pressure drop will occur, due to which the heat balance throughout the house will change, and the noise level will increase.

In order for the replacement of the heating riser in the apartment to be as professional as possible, you need to know its main functional purposes:

Heat carrier distribution by consumers. At the entrance of each apartment building there can be from 4 to 8 risers. In some cases, in one apartment their number reaches 4;
Depending on the heat supply scheme, the riser can perform hot coolant delivery functions and at the same time transportation of cooled. This is typical for a one-pipe system. In a two-pipe system, at least 2 such elements are required;
Hydraulic load balancing. Despite the inevitable bending of the heating riser, it must still distribute the pressure evenly over its entire height.

But the consumer is more concerned about domestic issues than operational ones. How to turn off the heating riser and what needs to be done for this? Such a question arises with the possible replacement or repair of batteries, radiators and heat supply pipes in an apartment. To solve this problem, you first need to decide on the adaptation of new components to an already installed heating riser.

It is impossible to connect a warm water floor to central heating through a riser. This will unbalance the entire system.

Installation of a heating riser

The transfer of a heating riser or its replacement is a complex procedure in terms of labor intensity and design. It is best to carry out these activities not during the heating season, when the system is not functioning. But this is not always possible.

To replace the heating riser in the apartment, you will need to solve two issues:

Issue a permit.
Choose the right components and installation scheme for a new vertical pipeline.

Only after that you can change the heating riser. In winter, this issue must be agreed not only with the management company, but also with the residents of the house, through whose apartments the heat supply riser passes.

It is impossible to mount the circulation pump on the heating riser. This will lead to a change in water pressure and, as a result, a violation of the thermal regime of the heat supply at home.

How to turn off the riser from heating

The legal shutdown of the heating riser during the heating season is a big problem when repairing or installing new radiator pipes. The difficulty lies in the fact that the coolant flow completely stops in this circuit.

It is necessary to perform a similar procedure when carrying out repairs and installing new components of the heating system. Turning off the heating risers in winter is not done immediately. To do this, you must write an application to the management company, agree on a date and time. Otherwise, the following problems are possible if the heating riser is closed without these actions:

The lack of heat supply throughout the heating circuit will lead to a decrease in the temperature in the apartments of other residents.
Failure to comply with the normalized degree of air heating in residential premises will completely fall on the person who arbitrarily turned off the riser. When filing claims, he will have to pay moral and material compensation;
When the heating riser is turned off during the heating season to install new components without permits, it is possible to temporarily shut off the heat supply in the apartment by representatives of the management company.

How to correctly turn off the heating risers in winter? First, the reason for initiating this action must be stated along with the application. It may consist in replacing already installed heating components with new ones, but with the same parameters. To shut off the heating riser in connection with the modernization of the system, you must perform the following actions:

Obtain Technical Conditions (TU) from the management company. This document indicates the technical parameters of the new components, as well as the piping layout.
After the fulfillment of the technical specifications, all the necessary components are purchased, including for the replacement of the heating riser.
Agreed time of shutdown of heat supply. The installation can be carried out both by the residents of the apartment themselves, and by employees. After checking by representatives of the management company, the heating system starts up again.

Often, for a new scheme, it is necessary to transfer the heating riser. In practice, this procedure will be extremely problematic. In contrast to turning off the heating riser during the heating season, in addition to permission from residents and management companies, redevelopment of heat supply in all apartments along this circuit will be required. It will be impossible to do this, since for this it is necessary that in each apartment not only the heating riser be turned off in winter, but also the configuration and location of heating devices should be changed.

If the shutdown time of the heating riser is short, you can negotiate with a local plumber. He will do it without unnecessary red tape for a moderate fee.

Rules for installing a new heating riser

Before turning off the heating riser to install a new design or replace batteries, you should find out the rules and recommendations for its installation. They are described in detail in SNiP 3.05.01-85.

Each heating riser in an apartment building was installed in accordance with these standards. Therefore, it must be replaced with a similar design with the same technical and operational parameters:

The inner diameter of the pipe should not differ from the previously installed one;
The value of the maximum possible bending of the heating riser cannot exceed 2 mm per 1 r.m. its length;
To pass pipes through interfloor ceilings, it is necessary to install special sleeves. They should be flush with the ceiling, and be 30 mm higher than the finished floor.

So when replacing a heating riser in an apartment, you must observe the minimum distance from its outer surface to the wall. If this condition is not met, additional heat losses are possible, since the structure is most often located near the outer wall of the building. This distance directly depends on the diameter of the heating riser.

If there is a partial replacement of the heating riser in one apartment, the endings of the pipeline must go to neighboring rooms located above and below. Otherwise, the conditions of SNiP 3.05.01-84 will not be met, which will cause the representatives of the management company to reject the project.

When installing a bend in a heat supply riser, it is forbidden to make pipe connections that, after installation, will be in the interfloor ceiling.

The choice of material for the manufacture of the heating riser

In the vast majority of cases, heating risers in an apartment building are made of steel pipes. After several decades of operation, their condition will be unsatisfactory. If the apartment is replacing pipes with new ones, you must also install a riser made of quality materials.

However, there may be difficulties in doing so. The technical characteristics of the new pipe material must comply with the requirements. You can learn about them from the technical specifications from the management company, or by consulting with their representatives by phone. Most often they are as follows:

Compliance of pipes with the temperature regime of heating. Those. the new design must withstand the maximum possible thermal impact without the occurrence of emergencies;
System pressure. For centralized heating, it can be from 3 to 6 atm. But you need to remember that hydraulic shocks can periodically occur (when the system is filled). Therefore, a margin of 25-30% must be added to the normalized pressure value. That is why it is impossible to install a circulation pump on a heating riser;
Ensuring proper thermal insulation of the pipe. This should be done only if it passes through a non-residential premises, where exposure to negative temperatures is possible. For this, thermal insulation of heating risers is done.

These requirements are met by several classes of pipe materials. The easiest way is to install the same steel. But most often the choice is stopped on polypropylene models.

For the arrangement of the heating riser, it is best to choose a high strength polypropylene pipe - PN25. It is designed for high pressure ratings. The problem may lie in the temperature regime of the heating. If the upper limit exceeds + 90 ° С, the installation of polypropylene is not possible. Then the only option is steel pipes.

In no case should metal-plastic lines be installed. Despite the good performance of thermal insulation, heating risers from them will be extremely unreliable. This is due to periodic pressure drops in the system. Gaps most often occur in connecting nodes, which are made from clamp fittings.

After turning off the heating riser, before its first start, it is necessary to make a pressure test. Only then can the coolant be supplied to the circuit.

Rules for connecting radiators to the riser

Replacing the riser is most often associated with a general modernization of the heating system. At the same time, not only new pipes are installed, but also radiators and batteries. It is important to choose the right scheme for their connection with the heat supply system.

First you need to complete the radiator so that it can effectively perform its functions. Its harness should include the following components:

Shut-off valves. With its help, you can completely limit the flow of coolant into the battery for its repair or replacement;
thermostat. Necessary to reduce the heat flux in order to reduce the surface temperature;
Mayevsky crane. Device for removing air pockets.

In addition to the possible thermal insulation of the heating risers, the wiring diagram of the supply lines is taken into account. For a single-pipe system, a bypass is mandatory. This is a piece of pipe connecting the inlet and outlet pipes of the radiator. The bypass diameter must be one size smaller than that of the heating riser. In this case, it is possible to avoid the occurrence of a zone of low pressure in the system.

Experts recommend using the same pipes to connect the drain to the battery. This is necessary to normalize the operation parameters of the entire system, and it will also greatly facilitate the laboriousness of installation. As an additional measure, pressure and temperature sensors can be installed. Thus, the quality of the heat supply service can be monitored.

To prevent premature clogging of the battery, it is recommended to install a strainer. It is mounted on the supply pipe in front of the thermostat.

Neighbors blocked the heating riser - what to do?

Despite the fact that heating repairs are best done outside the heating season, some do not adhere to this rule. What to do if the neighbors blocked the heating riser and one of the heat supply circuits is not functioning?

There are many recommendations for resolving this issue - from a general censure to calling the police. As a result, this will lead to the desired result - the air temperature in the rooms will be normal. However, these methods are not correct. If there is a suspicion that the neighbors blocked the heating riser, you need to perform the following actions:

Call the Management Company and make sure that the house is not currently undergoing repair or maintenance work.
No need to run around the apartments and look for the reason for the shutdown. You should call the representatives of the management company to resolve this issue. It was with her that an agreement was concluded for the supply of heat to the apartment.
After the culprit has been found, he can be threatened with a fine for unbalancing the heating system. This item is mandatory in the heat supply contract.

Only in this way can the heating work be resumed. All the rest require too much unnecessary effort, and will also lead to loss of time and nerve cells. Everyone must fulfill their contractual obligations. This primarily concerns the management company.

In the video you can see the features of replacing the heating riser:

How do you replace heating risers in an apartment building with your own hands? We will look at the main points of this rather complex work and the problems that can be encountered at its various stages: from dropping the risers to starting them.

Material selection

During the construction and overhaul of apartment buildings, risers.

How justified is this choice of material?

The installation itself is greatly simplified. It is performed without the use of welding in the shortest possible time.
Pipes are easily bent by hand: you can make a bypass or bend on the spot.
Pipes and fittings are light: lifting the necessary materials to the fifth floor will not take you much effort.

It would seem that everything speaks in favor of modern materials. It wasn't there.

Attention: if you want to create a minimum of problems for yourself in the future, use only and exclusively galvanized water and gas pipes for the installation of risers and connections to the valves.

Why? After all, the normal mode of operation of the heating system with a margin fits into the parameters declared for the same polypropylene?

You see, no one canceled the human factor. As soon as the locksmith forgets to close the inlet valves during the density tests of the heating main, the pressure in the risers will turn out to be not 4-5 atmospheres, but 10-12.

It is enough to open the house valves when starting the heating quickly - and the result will be a water hammer, in which a short-term pressure surge is possible and even up to 15-20 kgf / cm2.

What about annual temperature tests? Remember those few days in the spring when the batteries are hot? Working in the limit mode reduces the resource of plastics, and very much.

In the photo - a very dubious implementation of the replacement of the riser section. Putting plastic in a central heating system up to shut-off valves is not a good idea.

So, the choice is made. To replace the heating risers, we need a galvanized pipe DU20; we will make connections to heating devices with it. What will be required besides a few meters of pipe?

The answer depends on whether you have welding and related skills at your disposal. Please note: you need to be able to weld sealed seams, and with a mirror.

By the way, gas welding in problematic conditions is somewhat easier to work with.

If there is welding, welds are needed - long and short threads, to which radiators and valves will be attached.
In addition, you will need three locknuts for each radiator; three drives - one for the eyeliners and the jumper; three valves DU20.

The valves will be in different positions or block the flow of water through the jumper, directing the entire volume of water to the heater; or, conversely, limit the permeability of the battery when the jumper is fully open.

Useful: valves are only and exclusively modern ball valves. It is better to completely forget about the existence of screw valves.
As an option, a choke or a thermal head can be installed on one of the connections.

When assembling by hand, you will have to arm yourself with a die with a holder and an impeller with a cutting wheel for steel. All straight pipe sections with threads will be fabricated on site.
In addition, you will need the entire set of parts listed above; two tees (cast iron or brass) and two couplings. Threading, of course, will have to be done in a vise.

Getting Started

Riser reset

How to turn off the heating riser?

In houses with a lower filling, the risers are connected in pairs. You will have to find out which particular riser you are interested in is connected with. The easiest way to do this is to go up to the apartment on the top floor and look at the location of the jumper.

Top filling means you have to turn off one valve each in the basement and in the attic.

How to find the right valves? Focus on the entrances - in the basement flights of stairs are always visible. After the desired entrance is found, calculating the position of the valve you need is a simple matter.

Both valves are closed; then the plugs are unscrewed or the vents are opened. Wait until the water drains to make sure that the valves are fully functional. It is done.

If drain valves are installed instead of plugs, both reset and start-up will be easier.

Important: turning off the riser during the heating season is only permissible if you have access to the upper apartment. If it is non-residential, you simply cannot start heating by bleeding air.

Dismantling the old riser

The easiest way to disconnect heaters is to cut the connection to them with a turbine. Then the lock nuts are given, after which the cut of the eyeliner is unscrewed from the radiator plug.

Where to cut the riser itself?

The choice of location is influenced by two factors:

Your relations with neighbors from above and below. It makes sense to change heating risers through ceilings: as experience shows, corrosion destroys the pipe most quickly inside the concrete.
Convenience of further work. You need to cut the pipe in the place where you can cut threads on it or weld the finished one. Preferably not too close to the floor and wall.

Threading

An experienced welder, I think, does not need to suggest a procedure; but threading by hand may well be unusual for the reader.

What to pay attention to?

A chamfer is removed from the pipe with a file or impeller - an entry is made for a die.
The holder with a die is put on the pipe with a long side. This is necessary so that the die enters the pipe strictly perpendicular to its axis.
Short threads are cut on the riser - no more than five threads.
When the die comes to the edge of the pipe, you need to press the holder with the maximum effort available to you.
The riser itself, after the first thread is cut, must be adhered to with a gas wrench. The force is applied in such a direction as to compensate for the torque from the die. Otherwise, the situation is quite real when you tear off the thread from the radiator up or down the riser.

Nuance: the exception is convectors installed for welding. You will not tear off the pipe welded to the convector; the riser when cutting the thread does not need to be held.

Long threads are cut on the connections to the radiator (radiator plugs and locknuts will have to be driven along them) and on the drive in the jumper. When cutting, a piece of pipe is fixed in a vice - so as not to jam or deform already cut threads.

Assembly

Pipes cut in place with short threads cut on both sides are passed through the ceilings and connected with the threads on the riser by couplings. Winding - sanitary flax with paint or silicone sealant; polymeric thread (for example, Tangit Unilok) also gives excellent results.

In the second case, the cost of winding is much higher; however, for one-time work, you can also go broke on packaging.

Then tees are screwed onto the threads. The distance between the internal threads oriented towards the heater should be exactly 50 centimeters along their axes: otherwise you will have to mount the liner tightly.

In addition to the fact that if the locknuts are skewed, it will be difficult to seal, the inclined eyeliner looks simply sloppy.

The next ones are screwed into the valve tees - with male-female threads or female-female threads with short branch pipes.

Long drives are screwed into the valves that cut off the radiator - pipes with a short thread at one end and a long one at the other. On them, you can immediately drive the lock nut all the way (with the flat side to the radiator) and the radiator plug.

The jumper is mounted in the same way as any squeegee: a long thread with a lock nut screwed up to the stop is screwed into the tee; then the short thread, combined with the thread of the valve, is wound up and screwed into it, while the long thread is turned out of the tee by the length of the short one; then the lock nut is wound up and clamped.

The radiator is connected last. It is hung on brackets so that the axes of the threads for the plugs coincide with the axes of the connections. Then pre-rolled corks are driven into it; after them, the operation is repeated with locknuts.

If you have welding at your disposal, you can get by with a minimum number of threads.

Riser start

We have already, in general, completed the replacement of the heating riser in the apartment. There was a mere trifle left: to test the assembled structure under pressure and start the riser, resuming circulation in it.

Let's start with tests.

At this stage, it is desirable to have an assistant who, in the event of a leak, will be able to inform you about this by mobile phone or in the simplest way - by knocking on the riser.

Open the valve on the jumper and close both valves leading to the radiator. This will limit the number of threads under pressure during the test run.
We screw in the plugs or close the vents in the basement.
We slightly open the valve on the riser we replaced.

Important: if screw valves are installed on the risers, the valve that is installed with the arrow in the direction from the filling to the apartments opens. The instruction is connected with the device of this type of shut-off valves: by opening the opposite valve, you will most likely tear the valve off the stem.

As soon as the water stops making noise in the ajar valve, the pressure in the risers and bottling can be considered equalized. Both valves on double risers (in the case of top filling - in the basement and in the attic) open completely.
Then - a visual inspection: returning to the apartment, we open the valve on the liner (also slowly, allowing the radiator to fill with water without water hammer) and carefully examine all the threads for leaks.

Now it remains only to bleed the air, resuming circulation.

How to do it?

In houses with a lower bottling in an apartment on the top floor, a Mayevsky tap opens on a jumper between the risers. When water comes out of the tap, do not rush to leave: air bubbles can linger in the radiators and end up near the air vent with some delay.
Definitely, only the heating of the riser speaks of renewed circulation.

The air vent can be installed in the lintel under the ceiling and in the radiator. The main thing is that there are no pockets for air above it.

Top filling does not require any active actions from you: the air lock will be forced out into the expansion tank in the attic.
However, if its volume is small, it is better not to be lazy and open the air vent at the top of the tank.

A special case

What can be done if for some reason (absence of residents of the upper floor, etc.) it was not possible to bleed the air?

Not always, but in most cases, circulation can be resumed by overtaking the riser for discharge. Experienced locksmiths often do this with plugs; much easier, more convenient and safer, however, when vents are installed instead - ball or screw valves.

The algorithm of actions is simple: a valve opens on one riser, and a relief valve on the second. Most of the air is carried out at the water front. If the circulation has not resumed, you can repeat the distillation of the riser in the opposite direction.

The method always turns out to be effective if as . Aluminum and bimetallic radiators, thanks to narrow internal channels, are also usually bypassed without problems; and here

Replacing heating risers in an apartment building is a rather difficult task, but quite doable. Of course, you can always seek help from specialists, but this will cause additional financial costs. In this article, we will analyze in detail all the main stages of carrying out all the necessary installation work.

Choosing the Right Material

To install the riser of the heating system, they usually use either plastic, let's look at their features:

Plastic

To date, the use of plastic pipelines has become widespread due to several undeniable advantages:

Ease of do-it-yourself installation work. Connections are mainly made using a special pipe soldering iron.

Flexibility. Polypropylene products can bend, which allows you to bypass various obstacles without the use of additional fittings.
A light weight. This greatly simplifies the transportation and lifting of pipes to the upper floors of apartment buildings.
Relatively low price. Plastic is always cheaper than metal.
No corrosive processes.

But before choosing polypropylene, it should be understood that its strength characteristics strictly comply with the standard operating standards of the heating system and are not designed for such critical conditions as:

Pressure surges in the heating main from 4-5 to 10-12 atmospheres. Usually this happens only because of the negligence of the mechanics on duty at the boiler room, but, unfortunately, with constant regularity.
Water hammer. Formed at the time of a sharp start of the heating system after the summer break.
critical temperatures. They can be observed during the annual spring testing of the heating main.

Tip: if you still decide to use plastic pipes, then opt for reinforced models that can withstand much higher temperatures.

metal

In this case, everything is exactly the opposite. Steel products are more expensive, heavier and do not have the flexibility of plastic. But on the other hand, they withstand any possible temperatures of the supplied coolant and high internal pressure. So, if you want to have confidence in the stable operation of your heating system, then it is better to choose the installation of a metal pipeline.

An ideal option in terms of practicality and reliability would be to use a galvanized pipe DU-20, which, among other things, is protected from the occurrence of corrosive processes.

Required accessories

To successfully complete the installation work, you will need certain tools and some additional materials. At the same time, their final list directly depends on the chosen method of connecting pipeline elements: welding or threading.

Tip: choose only modern ball valves, as they are significantly superior in reliability to outdated screw models.

Installation progress

Replacing the heating riser in the apartment begins with the discharge of water:

Stage number 1: dumping the riser

How to turn off the heating riser? First of all, in order to avoid serious fines, it is necessary to obtain the appropriate permission from the housing office or other governing structure.

If you already have the necessary documents in hand, then, depending on the type of spill, you should proceed according to one of two scenarios:

Stage number 2: dismantling

The instruction to remove the old pipeline looks simple:

We cut with the help of the "grinder" the supply to the heating radiators.
We unscrew the remaining segment of the eyeliner from the radiator plug.

But here the question arises, where is the best place to cut?

This should be guided by two factors:

Efficiency. The fact is that pipes undergo the greatest corrosion inside concrete floors. Thus, if you want to achieve the maximum result, protecting yourself from possible accidents in the future, then it would be more correct to break through the floor and ceiling in order to replace those sections of the pipeline that are located in their arrays.
But here your relationship with your neighbors plays an important role, because without their participation, or at least permission, you will not succeed.

Convenience. In this case, the place of cutting should be chosen so that it would be comfortable for you to subsequently thread or weld on the remaining segment. It is desirable that it is not too close to the floor or ceiling.

Stage number 3: threading

In the case of using a welding machine, everything depends on the skills of the welder, and this process does not need a detailed description.

But if you use threaded connections, then it will be very useful for you to familiarize yourself with the steps necessary to complete:

We remove the chamfer from the pipe with a file or grinder, having previously fixed it in a vice or in another no less reliable way. This will allow the die or klupp to freely enter it.

Strictly perpendicular we put a holder with a die or a klupp on the pipe.

In the process of creation, we hold it with a gas key to prevent the formation of a gap above or below the riser.

At the moment the tool enters the edge of the pipe, press it as tightly as possible.
The cutting is carried out clockwise, but we apply efforts directed in the opposite direction to the key.
On the riser itself, we cut short threads, not exceeding five threads, but already on the supply lines to the radiators - long ones.

Stage number 4: assembly

After all threaded connections are prepared for further operation, proceed to assembly:

We pass the pipe blanks through the ceilings and connect them with couplings to the edges of the common line.
We carry out winding with sanitary flax, which guarantees tightness, and silicone sealant, which prevents premature rotting and fading of flax.

Tip: An alternative to linen and silicone is a polymer thread.
Although it costs more, it gives a more reliable and high-quality result.

Next, we mount the tees. It should be borne in mind that the distance between the internal threads was at least half a meter, otherwise the liner will have to be tightened.

We screw valves into the tees.
We install long branch pipes in the valves, in which a short thread is cut on one side, and a long thread on the other.
We mount the lock nut on the resulting spurs so that its flat side is turned towards the battery, as well as the radiator plug.
Install the jumper in the same way.
We hang the radiator on the brackets. At the same time, we make sure that the axial lines of the threaded connections for the plugs completely coincide with the axial lines of the threaded connections of the liners.

Tip: Use a spirit level when installing a radiator.
This tool will allow you to achieve the perfect horizontal.

We twist the plugs and locknuts, finishing the assembly.

It should be remembered that the presence of a welding machine significantly reduces the number of threaded connections required.

Stage number 5: system start

After assembly, it is necessary to test and put the riser into operation.

Trial:

We open the valve on the jumper, and close it on the radiator in order to limit the number of connections that fall under the first test.
We close the vents in the basement.
Slightly open the valve on the installed riser.
After the liquid stops making noise in the ajar faucet, we open the water supply to the system completely.
Returning to the apartment, smoothly slowly open the radiator taps, carefully examining the structure for leaks.

Tip: It is advisable to have an assistant during the trial run who will be able to notice the leaking place while you are in the basement or in the attic.
Then you can shut down the system in time, avoiding flooding.

The way air is bled depends again on the type of spill:

At the bottom, you need to open the Mayevsky tap in the upper apartment and wait until all the air comes out.

At the top, the air plug is forced out into the expansion tank, located in the attic, on its own.

Conclusion

Replacing the riser in the apartment is quite feasible on its own. To do this, the main thing is to have a desire and follow the instructions in this article exactly. Additional materials are provided on the video. Be careful and you will succeed!

Does it make sense to connect a new battery to a dilapidated and clogged riser? I think it's better to replace it too.

Material selection

During the construction and overhaul of apartment buildings, heating risers are often mounted from reinforced polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes.

How justified is this choice of material?

The installation itself is greatly simplified. It is performed without the use of welding in the shortest possible time.
Pipes are easily bent by hand: you can make a bypass or bend on the spot.
Pipes and fittings are light: lifting the necessary materials to the fifth floor will not take you much effort.

It would seem that everything speaks in favor of modern materials. It wasn't there.

Attention: if you want to create a minimum of problems for yourself in the future, use only and exclusively galvanized water and gas pipes for the installation of risers and connections to the valves.

Why? After all, the normal mode of operation of the heating system with a margin fits into the parameters declared for the same polypropylene?

You see, no one canceled the human factor. As soon as the locksmith forgets to close the inlet valves during the density tests of the heating main, the pressure in the risers will not be 4-5 atmospheres, but 10-12.

It is enough to open the house valves when starting the heating quickly - and the result will be a water hammer, in which a short-term pressure surge is possible and even up to 15-20 kgf / cm2.

What about annual temperature tests? Remember those few days in the spring when the batteries are hot? Working in the limit mode reduces the resource of plastics, and very much.

In the photo - a very dubious implementation of the replacement of the riser section. Putting plastic in the central heating system up to the shut-off valves is not a good idea.

So, the choice is made. To replace the heating risers, we need a galvanized pipe DU20; we will make connections to heating devices with it. What will be required besides a few meters of pipe?

The answer depends on whether you have welding and related skills at your disposal. Please note: you need to be able to weld sealed seams, and with a mirror.

By the way, gas welding in problematic conditions is somewhat easier to work with.

If there is welding, welds are needed - long and short threads, to which radiators and valves will be attached.
In addition, you will need three locknuts for each radiator; three rounds - one for the connections and the jumper; three valves DU20.

Useful: valves - only and exclusively modern ball valves. It is better to completely forget about the existence of screw valves.
As an option, a choke or a thermal head can be installed on one of the connections.

Exceptionally reliable, comfortable and hassle-free design.

When assembling by hand, you will have to arm yourself with a die with a holder and an impeller with a cutting wheel for steel. All straight pipe sections with threads will be fabricated on site.
In addition, you will need the entire set of parts listed above; two tees (cast iron or brass) and two couplings. Threading, of course, will have to be done in a vise.

Getting Started

Riser reset

How to turn off the heating riser?

Top filling means you have to turn off one valve each in the basement and in the attic.

Both valves are closed; then the plugs are unscrewed or the vents are opened. Wait until the water drains to make sure that the valves are fully functional. It is done.

If drain valves are installed instead of plugs, both reset and start-up will be easier.

Important: turning off the riser during the heating season is only permissible if you have access to the upper apartment. If it is non-residential, you simply cannot start heating by bleeding air.

Dismantling the old riser

The easiest way to disconnect heaters is to cut the connection to them with an impeller. Then the lock nuts are given, after which the cut of the eyeliner is unscrewed from the radiator plug.

Where to cut the riser itself?

The choice of location is influenced by two factors:

Your relations with neighbors from above and below. It makes sense to change heating risers through ceilings: as experience shows, corrosion destroys the pipe most quickly inside the concrete.
Convenience of further work. You need to cut the pipe in the place where you can cut threads on it or weld the finished one. Preferably - not too close to the floor and wall.

It is convenient with a grinder to cut off the riser, and to chamfer before threading.

Threading

An experienced welder, I think, does not need to suggest a procedure; but threading by hand may well be unusual for the reader.

What to pay attention to?

A chamfer is removed from the pipe with a file or impeller - an entry is made for a die.
The holder with a die is put on the pipe with a long side. This is necessary so that the die enters the pipe strictly perpendicular to its axis.
Short threads are cut on the riser - no more than five threads.
When the die comes to the edge of the pipe, you need to press the holder with the maximum effort available to you.
The riser itself, after the first thread is cut, must be adhered to with a gas wrench. The force is applied in such a direction as to compensate for the torque from the die. Otherwise, the situation is quite real when you tear off the thread from the radiator up or down the riser.

Threads are cut clockwise. The force applied to the key is directed in the opposite direction.

Nuance: the exception is convectors installed for welding. You will not tear off the pipe welded to the convector; the riser when cutting the thread does not need to be held.

Assembly

In the second case, the cost of winding is much higher; however, for one-time work, you can also go broke on packaging.

Linen provides tightness; silicone protects it from rotting and fading.

In addition to the fact that if the locknuts are skewed, it will be difficult to seal, the inclined eyeliner looks simply sloppy.

The next ones are screwed into the valve tees - with male-female threads or female-female threads with short branch pipes.

If you have welding at your disposal, you can get by with a minimum number of threads.

Riser start

Let's start with tests.

At this stage, it is desirable to have an assistant who, in the event of a leak, will be able to inform you about this by mobile phone or in the simplest way - by knocking on the riser.

Open the valve on the jumper and close both valves leading to the radiator. This will limit the number of threads under pressure during the test run.
We screw in the plugs or close the vents in the basement.
We slightly open the valve on the riser we replaced.

Important: if screw valves are installed on the risers, the valve that is installed with the arrow in the direction from the filling to the apartments opens. The instruction is connected with the device of this type of shut-off valves: by opening the opposite valve, you will most likely tear the valve off the stem.

As soon as the water stops making noise in the ajar valve, the pressure in the risers and bottling can be considered equalized. Both valves on double risers (in the case of top filling - in the basement and in the attic) open completely.
Then - a visual inspection: returning to the apartment, we open the valve on the liner (also slowly, allowing the radiator to fill with water without water hammer) and carefully examine all the threads for leaks.

Now it remains only to bleed the air, resuming circulation.

How to do it?

In houses with a lower bottling in an apartment on the top floor, a Mayevsky tap opens on a jumper between the risers. When water comes out of the tap, do not rush to leave: air bubbles can linger in the radiators and end up near the air vent with some delay.
Definitely, only the heating of the riser speaks of renewed circulation.

The air vent can be installed in the lintel under the ceiling and in the radiator. The main thing is that there are no pockets for air above it.

Top filling does not require any active actions from you: the air lock will be forced out into the expansion tank in the attic.
However, if its volume is small, it is better not to be too lazy and open the air vent at the top of the tank.

A special case

What can be done if for some reason (absence of residents of the upper floor, etc.) it was not possible to bleed the air?

The method always turns out to be effective if convectors are installed as heating devices in the house. Aluminum and bimetallic radiators, thanks to narrow internal channels, are also usually bypassed without problems; but cast-iron radiators often delay air congestion.

From the convector, all the air will fly out at the front of the water flow.

Conclusion

Want to know more about replacing risers? A video is waiting for you at the end of the article. Video tutorials are often more informative than the most detailed written story. Good luck with the repair!