Types of cast-iron heating radiators characteristics. Dimensions of cast-iron heating radiators: center distance, height and width of the cast-iron radiator section. Copper radiators

Cast iron radiators have been popular for decades. And, despite the high competition, new materials and developments, the share of their sales is quite high. And all because they have no competitors in terms of reliability and durability. No other heating device will last half a century or more in our district heating networks, with our heat transfer fluids. Therefore, they are often placed in apartments of high-rise buildings. And this is despite the heavy weight and the need to lift this weight to the floor.

But not only in apartments they put cast iron. Much more often he is preferred in individual heating:

  • in open networks, due to high resistance to corrosion;
  • in systems with natural circulation due to low hydraulic resistance (large channel diameter);
  • when installed with solid fuel boilers, they smooth out temperature differences due to large thermal inertia.

So the area of ​​\u200b\u200buse is quite wide, and they have practically no competitors in private heating.

Styles, sizes, varieties

When choosing the type of heater, aesthetic considerations play an important role. It is understandable: every day in front of our eyes. And if the appearance is annoying, then what kind of rest and good mood can we talk about. So let's start with the look.

old sample

Most of us remember the old batteries, the appearance of which is far from perfect. Today there are some. Despite the unattractive appearance, they have very good characteristics, and in a modern interpretation, with a slightly reduced intersection distance, they do not look so bad. Moreover, today everyone is trying to hide heating devices behind a screen, in a niche or a box. In this case, it is generally not clear what role the appearance plays: it is still not visible.

MS-140 and MS-90 - difference in section depth

And the cost of one section of this type is the lowest: Russian-made from 270 to 350 rubles. Those brought from other countries cost more, but they differ in size - the standards are different, some manufacturers have higher heat transfer. For Belarusian cast-iron radiators, the price per section is from 300 rubles, for Lugansk from 410 rubles.

The name of the cast-iron radiators of the old type is uncomplicated - “MC”, and then through the dash there are numbers that indicate the depth of the section (first) and the center distance (second). For example, it means that the depth of the section is 140 mm, the center distance (also called inter-nipple) is 500 mm. Another example: MS-110 300. Depth 110 mm, center distance 300 mm.

By these figures, you can at least approximately understand whether the modification is right for you or not. Depth determines whether the radiator will fit under the window sill or stick out. Only to the value itself you need to add another 30-50 mm to the distance from the rear wall of the heater to the wall. In total, it turns out that the MS-140 will close the window sill protruding by at least 18-20 cm.

The center distance determines how far apart the inlet and outlet pipes should be. With a lower connection, this parameter can only suggest the approximate height of the section. Why not accurate? Because with a center distance of 500 mm it can be 552 mm and 585 mm, and in cases with retro-style radiators and more than 600 mm. The difference may not be very big, but sometimes significant: the height to the windowsill may not be enough.

Technical characteristics of MS-140 radiators (click on the picture to enlarge)

New generation

But not everyone wants to install screens on radiators. Some interiors allow aluminum and bimetal models to fit well. For this reason, many set themselves new items. Today there are models made of cast iron, which from afar cannot be distinguished from aluminum ones. They have the same modern look, flat front panel, flat surface. Some are covered with factory enamel, others have to be painted on their own.

A few years ago, such new generation cast iron radiators were supplied only from European countries: Italy, the Czech Republic, Turkey, and of course from China. Today there are also Belarusian, Russian, and Ukrainian versions.

Unfortunately, the quality of coverage among Europeans remains better, but the price is also much higher. If we talk about new Russian-made cast-iron heating radiators, then they are 100-150 rubles more expensive than the "old" form. Compared to them, the price of "Europeans" is many times higher. But you need to take into account the features:


The difference is in all respects and very tangible. So the choice is not easy.

Designer radiators in retro style

These heaters will fit far from any interior. Most likely, you need to choose a model together with the designer: they are definitely not hidden, but used as an element of decor. Pig-iron radiators "Retro" are stylized as products of past centuries, on the surface there are different patterns and bas-reliefs, protrusions from above and below. Often such "antique" batteries have legs designed in the same style.

If we talk about manufacturers, then there are already products from Russia. The RetroStyle, Exemet campaigns specialize in the release of this particular group. They have a wide range of models in different designs. And they themselves paint, tint and polish their products to suit your interior (not for free, of course).

There are a fairly large number of batteries in this style:

  • german Guratec,
  • Czech Viadrus;
  • Turkish Demir Dokum;
  • Spanish Roca;
  • English Rococo;
  • Polish F

The size range is quite wide: center distance from 300 mm to 900 mm, section width from 40 mm to 81 mm, depth from 100 mm to 235 mm. A wide variety of patterns, styles and shapes.

As you can see, there are more different types and designs of cast-iron radiators than aluminum and bimetallic ones combined. There's definitely plenty to choose from here.

Types and methods of installation

Most cast iron radiators are sectional models. This means that you can choose any heat output depending on the heat loss of the room. Its build-up occurs section by section. How much is needed, so much is collected in one battery.

There is another type - these are solid-cast radiators. They have a very high reliability: leaks are possible only in the event of the destruction of cast iron, and this can happen after several decades. But this type is rare: mainly designer models are cast in this way, in the style of "retro" or non-standard height - from a meter and above.

How are cast-iron radiators assembled / disassembled

The sections are interconnected by nipples, the tightness of the joints is ensured by gaskets made of heat-resistant rubber. The nipples are threaded on the right and left, the same thread is on the inner surface of the vertical collectors (upper and lower). They are twisted and untwisted using a special mounting key.

The mounting key for radiators is a rod with a flattened one end. The second often has a ring into which the lever is inserted. The lever is usually needed when disassembling old radiators: they boil, overgrow and it is often very difficult to break the thread from its place. A crowbar or bar is inserted into this ring, which serves as a lever.

The key is inserted into the manifold to the desired depth (pre-try on the outside). The end of the blade rests against the groove in the nipple. Then, turning the key and the nipple in the right direction, the section is unscrewed or twisted. In this case, you need to turn a couple of turns alternately in the upper, then in the lower manifold. You need to be especially careful with cast iron: it is fragile and excessive force can cause the section to burst. Therefore, no distortions: they turned a little at the top, moved down, then up again, etc.

In the case of cast iron, leaks occur more often at the joints: over time, the gaskets lose their elasticity. But for collapsible models, this is not scary: you need to unwind the nipples, change the gaskets and assemble everything again. It's not such a complicated operation. The duration of trouble-free operation depends on the quality of the nipples and gaskets. So when choosing these "minor" details, pay close attention.

Installation methods

Cast iron batteries are either hung on the wall or placed on legs. Everything is clear with the legs: they come with a radiator (retro models) or are ordered separately (with other models). But with the installation on the wall there is one point: the cast-iron battery has a serious weight. Therefore, it can only be mounted on a main wall. In principle, installation on partitions is also possible, but then a reinforcement system must be provided that can withstand this weight.

You can hang on special brackets, pins, or hooks. Two are placed on top, one on the bottom. The main weight falls on the upper holders. The bottom serves to give direction. Mounting method of holders - any available. The main thing is to be strong and reliable.

Which cast iron radiators are better

Difficult question. Each person has their own requirements and evaluation criteria. It is worth looking at them.

If the main thing for you is quality, and the price is secondary, you should choose from the range of European manufacturers. The Czech campaign Viadrus deserved very good reviews. They know how to work with cast iron: they make boilers and radiators. There are no problems with the quality of casting or painting: all technologies have been worked out and tested over the years of operation.

German campaigns are traditionally good. Germany has very strict regulations regarding the construction industry and building materials. And if a product has been tested at home, then its quality is guaranteed.

All of the above does not mean that others are worse. You need to carefully read the information provided by developers and sellers, compare and evaluate, look for consumer reviews and expert opinions.

If you want good quality, but the budget is not so wide, pay attention to the Belarusian cast-iron batteries of the Minsk Plant. There are also standard MS-140s and their restylings. Yes, they are not painted, but primed. But you yourself can paint them to match the walls (use heat-resistant paint).

Russian-made radiators also showed themselves well. There are basically four factories:

  • radiator price Nizhny Tagil,
  • OJSC "Santekhlit" in the Bryansk region,
  • Descartes LLC in Novosibirsk,
  • Cheboksary Aggregate Plant.

But geographic location also plays a role. What is closer, then, most likely, will be your choice.

There are good quality Chinese cast iron radiators on the market. It is important to choose well-known brands that have been supplying products for years. No "new, but very good" and so on. Only those that already have a name and whose products are already known. Yes, they are not the cheapest. But it has long been known how many times you have to pay for cheap things. Good reviews have "Chinese" Sti "Nova" and "Breeze",. With Conner, by the way, it is not clear whether these are Italian radiators, Russian or Chinese: the office is in Italy, the radiators are developed and exported by a company from St. Petersburg, and the factory is located in China. This is not an easy situation. However, the reviews are positive.

If you decide to install cast-iron radiators, then we can please you: there are practically no cases of quick failure of radiators due to poor quality.

There is a casting defect: microfistulas, which, in theory, should be rejected at the stage of checking the section at the plant. But after installing any radiator, before connecting it to the system, it is pressure tested (testing at elevated pressure), so it is at this stage that a marriage is detected, which usually changes without talking. The percentage of marriage is about 0.5-1% (this is among the “verified” Chinese, among ours and Europeans, marriage is extremely rare in the network). In all other cases, possible malfunctions are leaking gaskets or loose nipples.

Complete destruction of cast-iron batteries is possible only with strong water hammer. But here the point is not in quality, but in correctly selected parameters or an emergency. The second possible variant of the gap is the defrost of the system. But these cases are the exception rather than the rule. For the entire practice of plumbing, this is one or two cases. So cast iron is the most reliable option.

Results

The choice of cast iron radiators is much wider than aluminum and bimetal combined. There, if something changes, then only the shape of the air ducts and ribs, everything else is standard. From cast iron, there are batteries so different that you just wonder. So you can forget about the old "harmonica".

Radiators at the factory are made up of several structural elements that are connected by nipples. The joints of the structure are subject to sealing, rubber or paronite gaskets. Component parts are cast by the manufacturer from cast iron. Connections filled with hot liquid differ in cross-sectional shape: round and elliptical.

According to the number of channels of one section, there are:

  • single-channel;
  • two-channel.

Dimensions of cast iron radiators

  1. Width

The width of the radiator depends on how many sections it has. When choosing the required width, the parameters of the building to be heated (its volume, the width of the supporting structures, the presence of windows) are taken into account.

  1. Height

They vary from 35 centimeters to 150 centimeters.

  1. Depth

Determines how organically you can fit the radiator into the design of the room. The depth can be from 0.5 to 1.4 meters or more.

How is a cast iron radiator installed?


If you opted for a radiator of a modern model, then most likely it comes with special strong legs with which it is placed on the floor. But most models do not have such legs. In this case, get reliable brackets (they can hold even the heaviest batteries) and hang the radiator on them. Make sure there is a small gap between the wall and the battery.


They don't need deep purified water

Hot water supplied to the batteries of residential buildings is not of high quality. It has a high alkali content. And passing through the pipeline, it washes away sand particles from the walls of the pipes. As a result, a chemically aggressive liquid with a high content of mechanical impurities flows through the batteries. Solid particles in it, like emery, begin to wipe the walls of a battery made, for example, of steel. But for cast iron this is not a problem. Its walls are protected by a thin layer of natural protection, so the chemical elements do not produce any effect on it. Even when the heating season comes to an end and the batteries are dehydrated, its walls will not rust from the inside. In addition, the walls of cast iron batteries are much thicker.

Ability to withstand maximum pressure

The operating pressure of cast-iron radiators is greater than that of any other (more than 0.9 MPa). Different manufacturers can find models with the required working pressure. They are not susceptible to water hammer.

High service life

It is known that in some houses of St. Petersburg you can still find cast iron batteries cast more than a hundred years ago! And this is not surprising. If you properly maintain cast-iron radiators (namely, change gaskets in time, flush them), then they will easily serve you for 50 years, or even more.

Democratic value

Compared to new developments in the field of radiators, cast iron is many times cheaper. Especially when it comes to replacing the entire heating system in the room, the cost savings in this case will be quite significant.

Disadvantages of cast iron batteries, turning mainly into advantages


Long heating time

Yes, cast iron takes longer to heat up than aluminum or steel. Its thick walls require a certain time to warm up. But look at it from the other side, because it cools somewhat more slowly. The heating season in Russia is short, and when it is still cold, rainy May outside, the heating of houses suddenly stops. And in such a situation, your apartment will remain warm for a certain time, while houses equipped with other types of batteries will cool down in an instant.

Low heat transfer to the room

People who prefer aluminum or bimetallic batteries claim that the heat transfer of cast iron batteries, with the same dimensions and water consumption, is much lower than that of the first. But let's look at the principle of heating, because it also affects how the room heats up. In aluminum and bimetallic batteries, only the core is heated, and, accordingly, the air passing through it. While cast iron batteries heat up the shroud itself by emitting heat radiation. This means that the heat rays heat up all the objects in the room. Then, heating can be carried out already from the objects themselves.

Big weight

Naturally, the wide walls of the radiator (which, by the way, provide durability and good heat retention) cannot weigh as lightly as thin cast iron ones. But this problem should only concern the installer. During operation, a large mass of batteries is more a plus than a minus.

High coolant costs

It is not surprising that an average of half a liter more water is required in the cast-iron section of the radiator than in aluminum, because their overall dimensions also differ. Aluminum batteries are on average a third smaller.

Not aesthetics

Of course, cast-iron radiators, originally from the USSR, did not shine with beauty. Perhaps that is why they have always tried to hide and block all sorts of interior items that take away heat. But those times have passed. Today, domestic radiators are produced in a neat flat case that will easily fit into any interior and will not be striking. And what can we say about foreign manufacturers. Factories from Germany, England, France and China produce cast iron batteries in any style your heart desires. And painted, and with drawings, and with airbrushing, and with rhinestone decor - any option for your order. Such a work of art will cost more, but aesthetically it will bring great pleasure.

Various models of cast iron radiators


In Soviet times, when there were no alternatives, a lot of models of cast-iron radiators were produced, most of which, at this time, are no longer produced: MS-140 (the only model that has survived to this day), NM-140, Minsk-110, NM- 150, R-90, RKSH.

Of the modern models, we note the MS-110, produced from the Santehlit plant. With its excellent heat dissipation performance, it is very compact, only 11 centimeters deep. Thanks to this, it can be placed even under the narrowest window sill.

Also, the Cheboksary development stands out - the model has one, two or three channels, depending on the modification. A distinctive feature is a completely flat surface that looks stylish and allows for more convenient cleaning.

The plant in Minsk is famous for its designer radiators. About 10 different models are produced, for example: 2K60P, 2K60PP, 2KP100-90-500, 2K60P-300.

Foreign models, of course, are more expensive, but their outer and inner parts are flatter, therefore, the heat transfer of such batteries is higher. The Chinese company Konner is noted for its invariably good quality products, their models “Hit”, “Modern” and “Fort” are deservedly very popular.

Among European manufacturers, the Czech plant Viadrus is famous for its elegant and reliable batteries, the Turkish organization DemirDöküm and the Spanish company Roca also make them. The cost of such radiators, decorated with a cast iron pattern, is several times higher than domestic ones.

After getting acquainted with the main technical characteristics and the model range of cast-iron radiators from various manufacturers, you can imagine the general outlines of this topic.

The conclusion from the above is simple: there is no need to change a reliable and proven cast-iron radiator for newfangled models with thin walls and the same short service life. After all, he is able not only to heat the house with high quality, but also to become an unusual element of the interior.

Advantages of domestic cast-iron radiators


  • High working pressure (despite the fact that 6 atmospheres are enough for full heating of the apartment, it can withstand 9 atmospheres)
  • Water temperature up to 150 degrees
  • Optimal length of one section for placement, only 93 millimeters
  • The height of each section can be selected depending on individual wishes from 38 centimeters to 58 centimeters
  • Lightweight body. The mass of one section is only 7.1 kg, and for certain models it can even reach 5.7 kg

The volume of water, you can also choose the one that is needed for heating the room. It can be 1.45 liters for the M-140 model, or 11 liters for the M-140-300-1 model

Before we analyzed the technical characteristics of domestic radiators, we were talking about radiators in a general sense. Now, it is possible to objectively evaluate and compare Russian-made radiators with radiators from foreign manufacturers.


Konner radiators are manufactured in China. Their cost is many times lower than Italian and German ones. Pay attention to the fact that the release of these radiators is directly directed only to Russia and the CIS countries. In Europe and America, these radiators are not widely used, they are practically not used.

In order for a product to have regular customers, it is necessary to take into account only one simple aspect: it is necessary to improve the quality. And in order to improve the quality, you need to minimize all possible shortcomings. It was this simple formula that foreign manufacturers understood. Having removed everything superfluous from Soviet models, they left the main functionality.

What were the shortcomings, and how did you manage to get rid of them? The Europeans noticed that the batteries wore out a lot on the inside. To prevent this from happening, they doused this surface with a specially designed protective film, which helped to significantly reduce the effect of the aggressive coolant medium. The second disadvantage was that the cast-iron radiators. Because of their size, they hardly fit in the small apartments of the Russians. The solution turned out to be simple - to reduce the radiators, while their power was not affected in any way.

The cost of cast-iron radiators - in this respect, domestic batteries have no competitors. With not so big differences, imported radiators will cost you 2 or even 3 times more, especially against the backdrop of the current economic situation.

Cost of cast iron radiators


For a clear example, let's take radiators with approximately the same characteristics. One section of the Russian-made M-140 radiator will cost you 340 rubles,
while a section of the Turkish radiator will already cost Nostalgia 500-180 more than 2 thousand rubles, and the Czech Viadrus Termo 500/95 will make you pay 425 rubles for one section.

Summing up, we note that the choice of a cast-iron heating radiator is an individual matter for everyone, depending on the needs and possibilities. Today, the high competition of radiator manufacturers allows the consumer to choose from thousands of models: flat, rounded, with thread, decorative molding, pattern, and many others. Modern models of cast iron radiators can be much more durable, stronger, more reliable and give off more heat than analogues from other materials. The Russian manufacturer, among other things, boasts a low price.

The heating system is a large, warm "heart" of the house and a complex engineering structure that does not tolerate approximation and requires competent engineering miscalculation. After all, all this is not just radiators and pipes, but a serious issue of the microclimate in the house, aesthetics and energy saving.

Not all radiators on the market today are suitable for installation in an apartment with a central heating system, so the choice should be approached with all responsibility. To understand how to choose the right heating radiators, let's look at their main types.

Most often, heating radiators made of the following materials are presented in stores and markets:

  1. Cast iron.
  2. Steel (tubular and panel).
  3. Aluminum.
  4. Anodized.
  5. Bimetallic.
  6. Copper.
  7. Plastic.

So, which one to choose for an apartment, let's try to figure this issue out together!

Cast iron radiators

They can be called one of the most "ancient" heating devices, which have not lost their relevance even now.

Due to the peculiarities of cast iron, today these batteries are very popular in our country. Due to the thick walls, they are not afraid of water hammer and are able to withstand a pressure of 25-30 atmospheres. Cast iron radiators are able to function not only in an autonomous heating system, but also in central communication. This material is not subject to corrosion, which makes batteries popular in our country, because, as you know, the heat carrier is often not clean in our country. Another advantage of cast iron batteries is their ability to retain heat for a long time, even after turning off the heating system.

The disadvantages of cast iron batteries include heavy weight, which greatly complicates the installation process. It is impossible to install these radiators alone.

In addition, cast iron has low thermal conductivity, which is why efficiency is achieved only at a stable temperature of 70 0 C. For a private house or autonomous heating, this can become overhead, but for an apartment solution with the normal functioning of the central heating system, this is a good option.

In Soviet times, cast-iron sizes were produced in standard sizes. To increase the heating of the apartment, it was necessary to build up the system, which did not always have a positive effect on the aesthetic appearance. Today, on the modern market, there are many options for cast-iron radiators from domestic and foreign manufacturers of different capacities. Therefore, you can pick up small batteries that fit perfectly into the overall concept of the interior. Previously, cast-iron batteries were attached to the wall with brackets. Today, you can choose beautiful floor-mounted radiators that have an elegant look.

Modern cast iron batteries do not need additional processing and painting. They are already sold ready for installation, and there is no need to paint them every year. Care for them is minimal: due to the smooth surface, dust practically does not settle on them.

The variety of colors and styles of cast iron radiators today helps not only to harmoniously fit them into a classic or retro style, but also to make radiators a separate decorative element.

Advantages of cast iron radiators:

  • Corrosion resistance.
  • Stylish appearance.
  • Unpretentiousness to the purity of the carrier.
  • Affordable price.
  • Keep warm for a long time.
  • Can function in the central and autonomous heating system.

Disadvantages:

  • Heavy weight.
  • Difficulty of installation.
  • Takes a long time to reach the desired temperature.

We conclude: for apartments with central heating, the choice of cast-iron radiators is optimal. They will last at least 15-20 years and will effectively give off heat.

Features of mounting cast iron batteries

Given the large weight of cast iron batteries, installation is a rather laborious and difficult process. If you decide to independently install cast-iron radiators, then the following factors must be considered:

Installation is best done in the summer, when the central heating system is turned off.
Determine a place to install the future battery. The best place would be the area under the window. This will ensure the normal circulation of cold and hot air throughout the room.

Mark the fastenings and the location of the structure on the wall. Use a spirit level to check if the line is level. If the battery is tilted unevenly, air pockets may form during operation.

Before the installation process, adjust the nipples. This is especially true for devices of domestic manufacturers. To do this, you need to unwind the battery, adjust the nipples and assemble everything back. In order to avoid distortion of the nipples, the battery must be disassembled on a radiator workbench using special keys. At the same time, we make one turn on each side to avoid skew. Having unscrewed the nipples, remove the sections. After adjusting the nipples, we assemble back strictly in the reverse order. It is necessary to test whether the battery will leak. We make a "pressure". Only now you can start installation.

In concrete and brick walls, cast-iron batteries are attached to the wall using special brackets. This will be enough to keep the battery from tilting under the pressure of the water. A standard size radiator must be secured to the wall with at least four posts. When attaching cast iron batteries to a wooden wall, you need to play it safe and create an additional floor support. The distance from the wall should be - 5 cm, from the floor - 10 cm. Having driven the supports into the wall, install the battery on them immediately on all the brackets.

The installation process depends on the type of fasteners. Typically, batteries are supplied with four holes located at the corners of the structure. Two openings are used to connect the direct and return lines, the rest are closed with air vent valves and plugs.
Connect the battery to the water supply only after checking the level of the horizontal position of the structure.
Connect the open ends of the pipes by gas welding to ensure a reliable, tight and durable connection.
At the end of all work, check the tightness of the entire structure by turning on the water.

Steel radiators

Steel batteries represent the best value for money. They are able to withstand a sufficiently large load and water hammer of the heating system. And due to the high level of thermal conductivity, steel batteries heat up quickly. For autonomous heating or heating a private house, this option is quite practical.

Speaking of steel radiators, it should be mentioned that they are of two types: panel and tubular.

Panel steel batteries

Panel radiators are a structure of two steel sheets connected by welding. Some models are equipped with convection elements to create a vertical direction of heated air. This allows you to create a kind of thermal barrier for the cold stream coming from the window.

To ensure strength and durability, the structure is painted only after complete assembly. When buying, be sure to carefully study the coating, as this affects further operation. Corrosion may occur in poorly painted areas. Panel radiators are designed for the normal pressure generated in the central heating system. The length can vary from 40 cm to 3 meters, and the height - from 20 to 90 cm. The size must be calculated based on the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.

The connection to the coolant can be from below or from the side, so when choosing, you need to take into account the location of the heating circuit piping.

Pros:

  • a light weight;
  • ease of installation;
  • fast heating, which saves on utilities;
  • attractive appearance;
  • compact size.

Minuses:

  • vulnerability to powerful water hammers of the central heating system. If the choice when arranging the heating system at home still falls on panel steel batteries, it is necessary to protect the structure and install a gearbox that will smooth out pressure drops in the network.
  • Susceptibility to corrosion.
  • Short service life. As a rule, the inner surface of steel panels does not have an anti-corrosion coating, and the coolant is not always clean. As a result, already after 7-10 years, the inner layer of the battery can be destroyed.

Tubular steel batteries

Unlike panel batteries, tubular radiators are a structure consisting of several sections, fastened together by welding. Depending on the area of ​​the room and the heating effect, it is necessary to calculate the power of the finished module and choose the optimal size. The small thickness of the pipes from 1.5 to 2 mm warns to be careful and try to use such structures only for low-rise buildings with closed systems.

Normal operation of tubular steel batteries is possible at a pressure of 8-10 atmospheres. If the central heating system “sins” with pressure jumps, then it would be advisable to install a reducer to smooth out the voltage.

Due to the small thickness of the walls, the coolant quickly heats up the steel structure. Today, the market offers a huge selection of tubular steel batteries in a variety of design solutions. They are installed not only traditionally at the window or wall, but even in the center of the room. Some designs are made in the form of a bench, the footboard of which is a heating device. It is advisable to install such a battery in the corridor. During the day, it will be comfortable to wear shoes on it, and at night it will be possible to place shoes on a chair to dry.

Pros:

  • Rapid heating. Due to the thin walls (1.5 mm), the heating of the batteries occurs in a matter of minutes, which allows you to save on utilities (in the event that a meter is installed in the apartment). However, this plus can also turn into a minus. Thin walls are subject to mechanical destruction of the "dirty" water supplied by the central heating system.
  • Higher resistance to mechanical damage compared to panel batteries.
  • Large selection of styles. Given the rich selection of colors, such radiators are easy to choose for almost any interior of the apartment. There will be no need to spend effort and money on additional decoration in the form of screens.

Minuses:

  • Vulnerability to powerful water hammer of the central heating system. However, almost all devices connected by welding are guilty of this drawback. During a powerful pressure drop, the structure may begin to collapse at the junctions.

Summing up, it should be said that tubular steel batteries are far from the best option for an apartment. Installation in a house with independent heating will lead to unnecessary costs due to rapid cooling. And installation in an apartment with central heating can cause emergency situations.

Features of mounting steel radiators

Steel batteries are quite easy to install, but it is better not to remove the packaging film until the end of the installation work. This will keep a clean look and not disturb the outer coating of the panel. The distance to the floor and wall is different for each model, so carefully study the installation diagram in the instructions.

Depending on the type of construction, we select the mount. We will attach the hinged radiator to the wall using brackets and dowels. The floor structure is installed on the floor on conventional racks and traditionally connected to the heating pipe.

Steel radiators are easily integrated into the heating system and, depending on the model, have a different type of connection: side, bottom, top. The distance between the wall and the rear panel of the steel radiator must be at least 25 mm, otherwise, the heat transfer of the device will be significantly reduced.

Modern models have a locking system against accidental “dismantling”, therefore, before installing the device, it is necessary to pull up the mounting grip and fix it in this position. We begin the installation with the lower fasteners, and after that we put on the upper ones. If you have done everything correctly, the top fastener will automatically snap into place, securely fixing the radiator to the wall.

aluminum batteries

Despite their beautiful appearance, aluminum radiators are not the best choice for heating an apartment with a central system. In apartments with an autonomous heating system, this choice of batteries is very popular. Along with a stylish appearance, they are distinguished by reliability and a fairly long service life - 20-25 years.

The material for creation is aluminum with the addition of silicon alloys, which gives the batteries a special strength. In industry, as a rule, silumin and duralumin are used to improve technical properties. In addition, the addition of silicon alloys can reduce the cost of the original product.

The design of aluminum batteries is quite simple: each section consists of two horizontal channels of large diameter and one vertical one with a smaller diameter. Several ribs depart from the vertical channel, which "take" thermal energy from hot water and "give" it to the air.

Designed for a pressure of 15 atmospheres, they are very vulnerable to air locks and water hammer. The connection of individual sections is carried out using the threaded coupling method, which allows you to quickly install the battery.

The tightness of aluminum radiators is achieved through the casting method. Each section is cast in a separate mold, after which it is combined into one common structure.

Aluminum radiators of various shapes and sizes are presented on the market, which allows you to choose the best option for the finished design of the apartment. Depending on the area of ​​​​the room and the heating effect, the size of the aluminum battery is also selected.

Batteries produced using injection molding technology have a higher margin of safety against pressure drops. The working pressure in them reaches 16 atmospheres, but during testing, the manufacturer tests radiators with a pressure of 25 atmospheres, which sometimes allows the batteries to withstand sudden surges. The smooth surface of cast panels provides higher heat dissipation.

Another method of manufacturing aluminum batteries is extrusion. This significantly reduces the cost of the product, but in terms of technical characteristics it is inferior to cast batteries. Recycled aluminum is used as the main raw material here, which over time leads to brittleness and corrosion. Therefore, when choosing radiators, it is necessary to focus not only on the material, but also to clarify the production method. Batteries produced using extrusion technology cannot be extended. They go on sale already in a standard size.

Aluminum radiators have a fairly low weight, which greatly simplifies their installation, which can be done independently. Due to the high heat dissipation of aluminum, the batteries heat up very quickly. This allows you to control the flow rate and manually control the system, creating a comfortable room temperature.

Pros:

  • Corrosion resistance.
  • Stylish appearance.
  • Light weight (3-4 times lighter than cast iron).
  • Variety of colors.
  • High heat dissipation.
  • Variety of sizes.
  • Possibility to add sections during operation (only applicable for the casting method).

Minuses:

  • Sensitivity to pressure drops.
  • Dependence on water quality. With contaminated water with a high pH, ​​the structure can quickly fail.

Features of mounting aluminum batteries

When installing aluminum batteries, one should, first of all, focus on the technical properties of the material. If during the installation of cast-iron batteries the main feature was a lot of weight, then the opposite is true here. Aluminum batteries are light and fragile, so installation should be carried out very carefully without removing the packaging.

The surface of an aluminum radiator can be damaged during installation even from a slight blow with a tool. Aluminum batteries are already on sale complete with brackets, which can be easily attached to the wall with dowels.

To create the most efficient heat transfer, you should be guided by the following parameters during installation:

  • The distance between the window and the heating panel should not exceed 10 cm.
  • The distance to the wall is 3-6 cm.
  • The distance from the panel to the floor should be within 5-6 cm.

A shut-off valve is installed on both sides of the radiator for temperature control and for emergencies.

After completing the installation and before connecting to the heating system, it is necessary to “pressurize” the device. To do this, call a representative of the relevant service or buy a crimping machine.

Anode radiators

In fact, these are also aluminum batteries. Only the raw material (aluminum) undergoes more severe cleaning with anodic oxidation of the surface. This improves resistance to corrosion and the chemical attack of dirty water.

Anode batteries are produced using casting technology, which provides them with tightness and resistance to water hammer. They are able to withstand pressure of 20-25 atmospheres. Due to the fact that the individual sections are assembled using threaded couplings and hermetic seals, the battery can be disassembled and supplemented.

Due to the perfectly smooth surface of the inside of the radiators, maximum heat transfer and more efficient circulation of hot water inside the structure is achieved. Externally, anode radiators are also pleasing to the eye. Their smooth shape and smooth surface are safer than the angular design of cast iron batteries.

The only drawback of anode structures, perhaps, is their high cost compared to aluminum radiators.

Pros:

  • High heat dissipation.
  • A variety of sizes and the possibility of adding sections during operation.
  • Withstand high pressure (20-25 atmospheres).
  • Corrosion resistance.
  • Stylish appearance.

Minuses:

  • High price.

Anode aluminum batteries are great for apartments with both central and autonomous heating systems. If financial possibilities allow, then such radiators will last a very long time, delighting with their practicality, functionality and excellent appearance.

Installation of anode batteries is carried out in the same way as the installation of aluminum radiators (see above).

Bimetal radiators

These batteries demonstrate the best value for money. They are able to withstand sufficiently excessive pressure, and are not too demanding on the coolant. This is what determines their current popularity in the construction market, which is second only to cast iron batteries.

The name of the radiators already indicates that they are assembled from two materials. The outer part is made of aluminum, and the inner layer is made of high quality copper alloy or steel. This combination of materials allows us to solve two problems at once: to improve heat transfer and increase corrosion resistance. The enamel coating in any color scheme gives the batteries a beautiful appearance.

The bimetallic radiator is available in two versions:

  1. Absolutely bimetallic apparatus, which is characterized by increased strength and resistance to pressure drops in the network. Their service life is at least 25 years, which fully justifies the high price. In such a device, the core is made in the form of pipes through which water flows without contact with the body itself.
  2. Semi-bimetallic is a design, the internal channels of which are simply reinforced with plates of another metal.

The design of bimetallic radiators consists of several sections, which are interconnected using a threaded coupling. If desired, you can always buy more sections and build up.

Bimetal radiators will be the best choice for apartments with a central heating system due to their high resistance to high pressure of 35-40 atmospheres. They are not afraid of sudden changes in operating conditions.

Pros:

  • They heat up quickly and give off heat easily.
  • Corrosion resistance.
  • Stylish appearance.
  • Large selection of sizes.
  • Possibility to deliver sections during operation.
  • Withstand strong water hammer.
  • Light weight and easy installation.

Minuses:

  • High price.

Such radiators should be purchased only in specialized stores, subject to familiarization with the documentation. Outwardly, they cannot be distinguished from aluminum batteries, but the difference in price will be very noticeable.

Bimetal radiators are a great option for apartments with any type of heating. The high price is offset by a long service life.

Features of mounting bimetallic radiators

The basic rule for the installation of bimetallic radiators is that the installation is carried out in a package. Do not remove the film until all work is completed. The fact is that the outer surface of the radiators is quite fragile and can be damaged by the impact of a tool.

Do not clean the parts to be joined with a file or emery, in order to avoid water leakage in the future.

In order for the bimetallic radiator to work properly and efficiently, the following distance requirements must be followed during installation:

  • The distance from the wall to the device is 3-5 cm. If you install it closer to the wall, the natural air circulation will be disturbed, which will significantly reduce the efficiency of the device.
  • The distance from the floor is no more than 10 cm. If you install it lower, this will not only reduce the efficiency of heat transfer, but also make it difficult to maintain the radiator in the future.

Start the installation by attaching the brackets to the wall, having previously marked out. Each radiator must be equipped with an air release valve. This will help prevent air pockets in the future. Use a torque wrench to securely tighten the valve.

Video. Do-it-yourself installation of bimetallic radiators

Copper radiators

Perhaps the only significant drawback of this type of radiators is their high price. Otherwise, they are distinguished by high technical properties, have a magnificent appearance and will last at least 25-30 years with proper care.

Copper batteries level the resistance of the coolant, increasing its efficiency. High efficiency is due to high thermal conductivity. Compared to the popular cast iron - 4 times more.

Pros:

  • Corrosion resistance.
  • Withstand high pressure in pipes (30-36 atmospheres).
  • High heat dissipation.

Minuses:

  • High price.

Features of mounting copper radiators

  • The ideal material for pipes to which the radiator is soldered is copper. This will provide a seal and prolong battery life. When combined with other types of metal, corrosion can form over time. This also applies to the choice of fittings.
  • Before installing a copper battery, it is necessary to install a filter designed to purify water. Otherwise, during operation, the inside of the device may become rough, which will provoke the deposition of salts.
  • All structural elements are connected by soldering.
  • On the brackets with which copper pipes are attached to the wall, it is necessary to install rubber pads, which will help protect the surface of the pipes from deformation and corrosion.

Video. How to install heating radiators

How do the features and nuances of the central heating system affect the service life of radiators?

Before you start choosing a radiator for your apartment, you should take into account some of the nuances of the central heating system. Of course, central heating has more advantages than disadvantages. No need to bother with the selection and installation of boilers, installation of a chimney. The cost of utilities is easily controlled by installing a meter. But there are also disadvantages that affect the choice of batteries.

  • The composition of the carrier always contains aggressive substances that adversely affect the material of pipes and batteries. Most often, it is corrosion that causes a destructive effect on the inner layer of radiators, reducing the service life. As a preventive measure, some utilities add lignosulfonate powder to water tanks, which does not have the best effect on the service life of radiators.
  • In the water that goes through the pipes for heating, fine sand, clay, and lime are often present. Gradually, this small debris wipes the metal from the inside. If the inner layer is rough, it will shorten the service life much faster.
  • One of the enemies of heating radiators in apartments is pressure drops, the so-called water hammer. This, of course, negatively affects the condition of the batteries. Air locks created by the unstable operation of the central line gradually lead to cracking and rupture of the metal. But many modern radiators are equipped with protective valves that allow you to regulate the pressure in the pipes and thus deal with pressure instability.
  • The instability of the temperature of the heating system has the greatest effect on the internal part of the battery. Cast iron tends to expand when heated and shrink when the temperature drops, which leads to cracking of the inner layer. Therefore, it is these batteries that are most vulnerable to temperature changes.

Therefore, when choosing a radiator for heating an apartment, be guided by these points and take into account the operation of the highway and local housing and communal services.

Calculator for calculating the number of sections of heating radiators

How to choose the right radiators for an apartment?

Choosing a radiator for an apartment is a crucial step. Not all types of heating systems on the market today are suitable. Some appliances are not capable of withstanding the stress and water hammer that is common in our utilities. Here it is important to consider not only the material, but also the maximum load of the radiator.

In addition, for the efficient operation of the heater and its maximum heat transfer, it is necessary to correctly calculate the number of sections.

When choosing a radiator for an apartment, the following factors must be considered:

  • The total area of ​​the apartment. Based on this parameter, it is necessary to select the power of the radiator.
  • Maximum pressure in the heating system. Each device has its own load limit.
  • The material and the maximum temperature that the radiator can withstand. Radiator power. This will be a fundamental factor, based on which it is necessary to calculate the number of sections and the total length of the device.
  • General design and style of batteries.

When choosing batteries for your apartment, you do not need to be overly prudent. A low price can cause cold in the room, and the service life of inexpensive radiators does not exceed 5-6 years.

In the event of an accident in the central heating system, cheap batteries can quickly fail due to water hammer.

At the end of the article, we offer you a very detailed lecture on choosing radiators for an apartment.

Video: How to choose heating radiators

Content

Cast iron is a classic material for the manufacture of heating appliances. It was from it that the first radiators of the pre-revolutionary era were made, some of which continue to function properly today. For a long time, cast-iron radiators had no alternative in the USSR - steel convector batteries began to be actively installed in the central heating system only from the 70s. Cast iron batteries are made by casting. Improvement in technology has improved the quality of the surface and a modern mass-produced heating device looks no worse than popular batteries made of other materials. But the most aesthetic is the appearance of cast iron products made using art casting technology - such batteries can become the highlight of the room. Consider the technical characteristics of cast-iron heating radiators and their features.

Retro Cast Iron Batteries

Types of cast iron radiators and their design features

When choosing cast iron radiators, first of all, pay attention to their dimensions. If we are talking about the reconstruction of the system, then the heating device must fit the existing pipeline in terms of the distance between the connection holes. It should be installed under the window sill in compliance with the requirements regarding the gaps between the radiator and the window sill, on the one hand, and the floor, on the other - it is important to ensure efficient circulation of heated air. Its heat transfer depends on the dimensions and correct installation of a cast iron battery.


Construction of cast iron radiators

Cast iron heating radiators from different manufacturers differ in the following parameters:

  • center distance (spacing between the centers of the holes for connecting the pipeline) - from 220 to 900 mm;
  • depth - from 85 to 200 mm;
  • width - from 45 to 108 mm;
  • height - from 330 to 954 mm.

To a certain extent, the dimensions of the heating device depend on the style in which it is made. The usual "harmonica" is produced in Russia and the Republic of Belarus according to certain standards, which differ slightly from each other. Designer models from domestic and foreign manufacturers seriously differ in height and in the presence of legs. In this case, the standard center distance is observed.

Please note: unlike standard ones, designer radiators cannot always be extended with additional sections. Manufacturers of designer radiators can also offer bottom connection models.

low radiators. This category includes heating appliances with a height of 330 mm to 400 mm. The center distance for such models is 300 or 350 mm. Representatives of low cast iron radiators are the standard "accordions" MS-140M, as well as designer BOLTON 220, Viadrus Hellas 270.


A variety of sizes and shapes of cast iron radiators

Medium radiators. The height of such heating devices is from 400 mm to 660 mm, the center distance is 500 mm, regardless of the model. Standard "accordions" MS-140, SM-110, MS-90, MS-85 are on sale. The marking indicates the depth of the section, while the width of the section can be 108 mm (for a manufacturer from Belarus) or 93 mm (for Russian manufacturers). Medium-sized designer radiators include DERBY M 500 and Modern 500 cast-iron heating appliances.

Tall radiators. These are models with a height of 660 mm, while the maximum height is 980 mm, including legs. Designer heating devices in retro style are usually high. Height restrictions are associated with the fragility and heavy weight of cast iron. In addition, the higher the section, the more heat energy is required to heat it up.

Note! Manufacturers of stylized radiators in the list of technical specifications may not indicate the depth of the product if the shape of the model is not linear.

The technical characteristics of the heating device depend on the dimensions. The size and number of sections determine the capacity of the battery. At the same time, it makes no sense to increase the “accordion” with additional links by more than 30%, since at the same time its heat capacity increases. As a result, heat transfer will not increase, but will decrease, since the coolant will not be able to provide high-quality heating of the entire radiator.


Cast iron radiators 7-section

Main advantages

The advantages of a cast-iron radiator traditionally include:

  • Corrosion resistance. A feature of cast iron is resistance to oxygen, due to which such heaters can be operated as part of open heating systems, as well as operate in the mode of regular filling and draining of the coolant. Steel radiators quickly rust from the inside after the system is empty and fail after 2–3 years of operation in a “torn” mode.
  • Undemanding to the level of acidity of the coolant. Cast iron batteries are not afraid of acidic or alkaline environments, suitable for systems filled with antifreeze.
  • Resistant to high temperatures. Batteries withstand heating of the coolant up to 150 ° C. Such technical characteristics make the heating device suitable for gravity systems with a solid fuel boiler, where it is difficult to regulate the heating of the liquid.
  • Fairly large interior. As a result, flushing is not required very often.
  • heat storage properties. Thick-walled cast iron radiators have an important property - they retain heat for a long time. After turning off the heating, the radiator will cool down gradually, and after an hour, the thermal radiation will be approximately 30% of what it was at the time the boiler was stopped. The ability to store heat in cast iron heaters is several times higher than that of other materials, making them the preferred choice for stand-alone systems with solid fuel boilers that require fuel loading more than once a day.
  • Durability. The wall thickness of cast iron batteries contributes to long-term operation, subject to high quality material and optimal operating conditions. There are examples of the successful operation of radiators made a hundred years ago, and examples with Soviet batteries that begin to “crumble” after 20–30 years of operation. Manufacturers estimate the service life of their products at 10-30 years, but in fact it can be much longer.

Pig-iron radiator Demir Dokum (Turkey)

Main cons

Cast iron radiators are not without serious drawbacks, which include:

  • Big weight. The thick walls and dimensions of cast-iron heating radiators complicate transportation, especially if heating devices need to be lifted to the upper floors of a multi-storey building without an elevator. It is problematic to install batteries alone, especially if they are not installed on the floor, but are attached to the wall.
  • Form features. Due to the sectional nature of the cast-iron battery, the surface area is relatively small when compared with other types of heating appliances. The main part of the heat is transferred by radiation, convection is practically absent, which slows down the heating of the room.
  • Appearance. Serial radiators of the old type can hardly be called aesthetically attractive, in addition, batteries may require painting with a special paint for radiators. It is important to remove the previous decorative layer so that the heat transfer of the battery does not decrease. If, for aesthetics, the battery is covered with a decorative screen, this also leads to a decrease in heat transfer.
  • Thermal inertia. The same property is both a minus and a plus. Cast iron radiators cool down slowly, which may be required in some cases, but at the same time cast iron batteries heat up very slowly when the heating is turned on. Due to thermal inertia, such heating devices cannot be used in a system with flexible room temperature control. This means that they are not suitable for cost-effective independent heating systems.
  • Brittleness of the material. Cast iron may not withstand a point impact with a heavy object, it may be damaged if it is dropped on concrete or stone. Microcracks during operation expand under the influence of high temperatures, as a result of which the battery may leak. In the same way, cast iron is destroyed by sudden temperature changes.
  • Tendency to overgrow. The rough inner surface promotes the accumulation of deposits. Since the internal section is quite large, the battery will not completely clog for a long time, but its heat transfer will decrease. It is recommended to flush the heating devices of the autonomous system every few years.
  • Large internal volume. The more coolant is required to fill the system, the higher the energy consumption for heating it.

Cast iron radiator MS-140M

The disadvantages of cast iron radiators often include a relatively low peak pressure compared to bimetallic heating devices. Cast iron batteries withstand a pressure surge of up to 15 atm., While bimetallic - up to 40 atm. However, in the central heating system, the pressure does not rise above 15 atmospheres, thanks to which numerous cast iron batteries have been working perfectly for decades. And in an autonomous system, the pressure is much lower than in the central one.

Brands and cost of cast iron batteries

When choosing heating devices made of cast iron, they take into account the technical characteristics of the models, their aesthetic design. To calculate the required number of sections, you need to divide the calculated power of the heating device for a particular room by the power of one section (indicated by the manufacturer).


Cast iron radiators DEMRAD RETRO

In Russia, cast-iron radiators from the following manufacturers are popular:

  • Minsk Plant of Heating Equipment (Republic of Belarus). Produces radiators of the MS series. This is an analogue of Soviet batteries with a slightly improved design.
  • "Santekhlit" (Russia). It also produces low-cost batteries of the MC series, made of gray cast iron. Some improvements have improved the technical parameters compared to the classic model.
  • Viadrus (Czech Republic). Offers small size radiators with an original modern design. Batteries require painting.
  • Demrad (Turkey). The product line includes heating devices of various heights with a modern design, which are suitable for replacing old standard radiators.
  • Demir dokum (Turkey). It specializes in the production of batteries in retro style, with legs. Products are characterized by high heat transfer.
  • Konner (China). Designer radiators created by Russian specialists and intended for the domestic market. Differ in attractive appearance, a variety of styles, high heat dissipation.

Cast iron radiator Viadrus Kalor

When planning to buy a cast-iron battery, please note that designer models are solid-cast - in this case, the seller indicates the cost of the product. Also in stores, including online, batteries of 7 or 10 sections can be presented with a price tag for a one-piece radiator. In other cases, the price of one section is indicated. On average, one section of a cast-iron battery costs from 400 to 600 rubles, depending on the size and manufacturer.

Not every battery is suitable for installation in apartment buildings, because frequent pressure surges in the system and the use of water as a coolant affect the performance of radiators. Some metals, when exposed to water and air, corrode and oxidize. The cast-iron radiator remains tested.

Characteristics of cast iron radiators

  • The material used is corrosion resistant.
  • Due to the resistance of cast iron to physical influences, batteries are used with any type of coolant. Its maximum temperature can be 150 degrees. A distinctive feature is oxidation resistance, because cast iron does not react when in contact with water, even if the acid-base balance reaches 9-10 Ph.
  • It perfectly accumulates heat, which increases its heat transfer when compared with other materials. Cast iron batteries retain heat for a long time after the coolant supply is turned off.
  • Durability of heating devices up to 30 years. With proper installation and care, air conditioning equipment lives longer than the allotted time.
  • Thick walls are the reason why cast iron radiators live a long life.
  • The number of sections can be varied to achieve the desired level of heating.
  • If one section is damaged, replace only it, and not the entire battery.

The design of modern heating appliances is different from the usual old "accordions" that are in some apartments. Popular devices created using artistic casting, made in retro style.

Suitable for three types of connection.

  • Lower. With this connection, the pipes are connected to the lower outlets on both sides. The downside of the bottom connection is low circulation.
  • Side. This connection method provides for maximum circulation of the coolant, since the pipes are connected to the extreme section in the lower and upper outlets of one side.
  • Upper. The pipes are connected to the top outlets of the end sections. The circulation with this connection is much higher than with the lower one.

Cast iron radiators are cast from an alloy of homogeneous mass, intended for use in heating systems of apartment buildings. Sections are made separately and connected using engineered gaskets and nipples for tightness.

The power of the heater declared in the technical specifications almost always differs from the actual one. This is due to the testing of the radiator in laboratory conditions that differ from real ones.

The heated coolant enters the radiator compartments through the pipes of the heating system and heats the air in the room, giving off heat.

Types of cast iron radiators

  • Single-channel. In the design of radiators of this type, each section has a channel through which the liquid coolant circulates. Climatic devices of this type are easy to clean, so they are installed in medical institutions.
  • Dual channel. In one section of heating devices of this type there are 2 channels, which increases heat transfer.
  • Three-channel. The heat transfer indicators are higher compared to other types, while their weight and depth are much greater than those of their counterparts.

In two- and three-channel heating radiators, fins are used, which increase heat transfer. Sections are stylized in different styles, from retro to futuristic. Sometimes a metal casing is used to hide the battery.

Two-channel heating radiators are popular, as they are compact and have good heat dissipation.

Cast iron heating radiators are divided according to the installation method:

  • Wall. Mounted on the walls with reinforced brackets, this type of mounting is a classic.
  • Floor.Batteries are supplied with four legs. They are part of the end sections, so they are difficult to break off. These do not need additional fasteners, which will save the wall. In addition, not all walls can withstand cast iron. It is more convenient to clean up behind them, since the distance from the wall can be much greater than that of the classic types of fasteners.

In height, on average, the dimensions range from 35 to 150 cm. The length depends only on your preferences, because the number of sections can be different, and the width directly depends on the number of channels.

Disadvantages of cast iron radiators

  • The weight. This is the main disadvantage for a cast iron product, and radiators are no exception. Because of the weight, and not because of aesthetics, the production of batteries on "legs" began, because not every wall is able to withstand the considerable weight of cast iron.
  • Thermos effect. Listed as pluses and minuses. Cold radiators take a long time to warm up. When the heating is turned off, cast iron, due to the same property, remains warm for a long period of time and continues to give off heat.
  • Water hammer. Some models of cast iron heaters do not withstand hydraulic shocks. The strikes occur in apartment buildings connected to a centralized heating system. This is solved by installing a pressure regulator.
  • Pollution. Cast iron batteries are very dusty, and the design does not always allow for a complete and high-quality cleaning.
  • Appearance. Externally, cast-iron devices are attractive, however, it is worth paying extra for beauty. Products made of this metal are sold unpainted, so the appearance does not cause sympathy.

Ways out of this situation:

Paint the battery yourself. A painted battery can look unaesthetic if layers of paint are applied unevenly.

Install a grate above the air conditioner. With the help of metal covers, you can “hide” the battery from prying eyes, however, such linings reduce the quality of heat transfer, and the room becomes cooler.

Order a cast-iron radiator made in the style of an artistic ebb. Batteries molded in various styles do not need to be painted. Such a radiator is not suitable for all interiors.

Calculation of sections of cast iron radiators

Before purchasing a cast-iron unit, calculations will be required that will more accurately determine the required number of sections. The example uses the following data:

1. The amount of heat generated by one section is 145 watts (the average figure is taken, the exact data is in the product data sheet).
2. The calculation is made for a room with normal insulation, one street wall and one window. According to SNiP, the amount of heat required to heat it is 100 watts.
3. Room dimensions - 4 x 3 meters.

Calculation

1. The area of ​​the room is determined. It is equal to 12 m2.
2. The area and the amount of heat that is needed to heat one square meter of the room are multiplied. According to SNiP, the room from the example requires 100 watts / m2. After performing this action, 1200 watts are obtained.
3. The amount of heat required for the room must be divided by the heat output of one part of the battery. Then, round the result up.
4. It turns out the number of sections required for installation. For the room indicated in the example, a radiator is installed, consisting of 9 sections.

The calculation is focused on rooms whose height does not exceed 3 meters.

Since each room is unique, there are coefficients that allow you to more accurately calculate:

To accurately measure the amount of heat per square meter, you need to divide the height of the ceilings by a factor equal to 3. For a room with a ceiling of 2.5 m, it will be 0.83.

For calculations, the average temperature of the heat carriers, which is 70 degrees, is used. With an increase in this indicator, 15% must be subtracted from the final number every 10 degrees, with a decrease in temperature, the opposite action must be performed.

If the room has not one, but 2 or 3 street walls, then it is worth multiplying the amount of heat for 1 m2 by a factor of 1.75. After that, the number of sections must be divided by the number of windows and radiators should be installed under each of them. This will ensure uniform heating of the entire room.

If the room has additional heat-insulating layers, as well as if double-glazed windows are installed, the amount of heat for 1 m2 is allowed to be divided by 0.8.

For houses located in regions with extremely low temperatures, the amount of heat for 1 m2 is doubled.

Before installing a cast-iron radiator, you need to disassemble it into sections, check the fastening of the nipples, then assemble it. You need to mount, taking into account the weight of the battery and the material of the wall in the room. The minimum set of tools is a grinder, a puncher, an adjustable wrench, a building level and a die.

1. If the wall is brick or concrete, fasteners are selected that are designed for the weight of the radiator with coolant. According to SNiP, it is recommended to use 3 or more brackets.

2. Do not hang cast iron radiators on walls made of wood or drywall as they may not be able to withstand the load. In this case, you can install the radiator on a floor stand or legs. It is attached to the wall only to maintain it in an upright position.

After installing the radiator, it is connected to the central heating using connecting bushings and a drive. Threaded connections are recommended to be sealed.

Cast iron radiators need to be periodically tinted with paint that can withstand the heating temperature without changing color.


Connection to the heating system:

1. Diagonal. Used when connecting multi-section units. The supply pipe is connected at the top on one side, and the return pipe is connected at the bottom on the other.

2. Lower. Used when pipes are hidden in the floor of a room or behind skirting boards. This is an aesthetic way to connect. The supply and return pipes are located at the bottom.

3. Lateral. The supply pipe is connected to the top futorka, the return pipe - to the bottom. Lateral connection is characterized by the highest heat transfer. In case of poor heating in multi-section heaters, it is recommended to install an extension of the coolant flow.

4. Consistent. The coolant moves under the pressure of the heating structure. Mayevsky taps are used to remove air. The disadvantage is the need to remove the batteries and turn off the heaters during repairs.

5. Parallel. The connection is created through a pipeline connected to the supply riser. The coolant leaves through a pipe connected to the return.


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