The thickness of the insulation for the ceiling of a cold attic: which is better. Ceiling insulation in a house with a cold roof: we correctly choose materials and technologies Installing insulation directly on the ceiling

- This is the area in the room that is responsible for the preservation of heat. After all, heat rises, and if the ceiling is defective and there are no obstacles in its path, then it slips out. Insulation of the attic space is possible, and now we will look at how to insulate the ceiling from the attic side in various ways.

Attic insulation in the private sector will be required in the following cases:

1. The house is being prepared for construction and the ceiling consists of beams only.
2. A residential building, but the ceiling needs to be insulated, as it allows cold into the premises.
3. In the attic, the temperature is much lower than in the living room, and so that the heat of an unheated room does not go outside, it is insulated.

When insulating the ceiling, the following materials are used:

Let's consider each material separately.

Ceiling insulation methods

Polyurethane foam is a non-combustible insulation material, neutral for insects and microorganisms, has good soundproofing and waterproofing properties, tolerates temperature changes perfectly, with no cold bridges.

The material is sprayed under high pressure. So, it gets into all the cracks, enveloping all the protruding elements. The layer of such material is 100–120 mm.

The process of insulating an attic in a private house is simple, the main thing is to figure out what kind of material for insulation is most acceptable in your case.

Video

You can learn more about how to insulate the ceiling from the attic side by watching the video:

Scheme

The schemes proposed by us will help you to insulate the ceiling with high quality:

It will not be warm in a private house even with triple-glazed windows and thick walls if the heated air escapes through the attic floors. You can eliminate heat loss by installing ceiling insulation for a cold attic.

Properties of materials that retain heat

To choose a suitable insulation for the ceiling inside the house, you need to take into account the material from which the building is made, and pay attention to the following parameters:

• fire safety. Ceiling insulation must be non-flammable;
• elasticity. Due to this property, the shape is not lost during operation;
• environmental friendliness and safety during operation. The components that make up the insulation for the ceiling of the house must be absolutely harmless;
• duration of service life;
• vapor permeability. The laid thermal insulation layers should not create obstacles to the natural movement of air.

The compositions used to preserve internal heat must have increased strength due to the effects of constant temperature changes.

Choice Basics

Before you make a choice and understand which insulation is best for the ceiling, you need to designate the installation location.

The layer of material laid from the inside should not be too wide, otherwise the ceiling height will noticeably decrease. The ceiling insulation of a wooden house should not weigh down the attic floors. And if there is no vapor barrier level, then mold fungus will grow on the floors over time.

Almost any ceiling insulation in a private house is suitable for concrete floors. This is explained by the fact that concrete is considered a universal coating, and is combined with any insulation that has low thermal conductivity.

Insulation thickness

What thickness of the insulation should be on the ceiling depends on the composition chosen, and on what effect the owner of the house wants to achieve by insulating a cold roof.

So, insulation for the ceiling in a wooden house must meet certain requirements. Special compositions for the construction of wooden attic floors are selected to a certain weight, and stacked in layers of a certain thickness.

Consider what layer of insulation is needed on the ceiling, using mineral wool as an example. When choosing, the climate zone and the material from which the house is built are taken into account.

If the heat-insulating layer is laid out in mats, then its thickness will be less compared to heat-insulating plates.

In the harsh climate of the northern regions, the thickness of the layer of mineral wool pressed into mats will be 206 mm. For the climatic conditions of the middle lane, 165 mm of the heat-insulating layer is sufficient.

If you insulate the ceiling with foam, then you will need sheets from 4 to 5 cm in thickness.

A layer of heat insulating layer, such as expanded clay, is typically 12 to 16 cm thick.

Varieties of heat insulators

Among the most common types of ceiling insulation:

• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• sawdust;
• expanded clay;
• foil material;
• ecowool;
• expanded polystyrene and others.

Let's discuss some types of heat-insulating compositions in more detail.

Bulk

Bulk insulation for the ceiling remarkably closes all existing gaps and cracks in the ceilings of a cold attic. Bulk varieties include:

• polystyrene chips;
• expanded clay. We will talk about this variety separately;
• granulated foam glass;
• ecowool;
• perlite;
• vermiculite;
• loose penoizol.

Among the listed heat-insulating compositions, foam polystyrene chips and penoizol are usually preferred. These are durable, non-combustible compositions that retain heat well in residential premises.

Roll insulation

Among the roll insulation for the ceiling, mineral wool and ecowool are popular.

Ecowool is laid using water or dry. If water is added, the attic must be perfectly ventilated to avoid rotting and mold. In the wet version, the thermal insulation is laid with the help of special equipment under pressure.

One of the advantages of ecowool is its environmental friendliness, and the possibility of laying without a waterproofing layer. Usually a layer of ecowool is laid from 20 to 40 cm thick.

Mineral wool, as thermal insulation, is one of the best options. Mineral wool is not combustible, resistant to various microorganisms, with low sound transmission and thermal conductivity. When laying mineral wool, a polyethylene film is necessarily laid.

When choosing which insulation is better to insulate the ceiling of a cold attic, basalt wool is usually preferred. The basalt variety of mineral wool has increased strength, which means a long service life, and does not cake during operation.

Sawdust

Sawdust is widely used as a ceiling insulation for a cold attic. This is a budget option for thermal insulation, suitable for wooden and concrete floors of a cold attic.

When laying sawdust, it is necessary to take care of the waterproofing layer. First, all floors are carefully smeared with clay. A layer of sawdust mixed with cement and water is poured on top. The thickness of the heat-insulating layer is 20 cm.
If dry sawdust is used, then slag is used as waterproofing, which is poured over the sawdust.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay, as a ceiling insulation, is used more often than other bulk heat-insulating compounds. Expanded clay has such advantages as:

1. fireproof;
2. resistant to temperature changes;
3. has a long service life;
4. low cost;
5. has excellent thermal and sound insulation properties.

Before laying expanded clay, a polyethylene film is first laid. Expanded clay granules absorb water well, therefore, to protect against moisture, a cement screed is mounted on top of the heat-insulating layer. Such structures are usually performed on concrete floors.

Non-combustible insulation

When choosing a thermal insulation option for a cold attic ceiling, fire safety is important. Among the non-combustible insulation for walls and ceilings, the following materials are leading:

• mineral wool;
• expanded clay;
• foam glass;
• perlite.

When choosing which non-combustible insulation for the ceiling of a wooden house is better, you need to build on the following characteristics:

• even if the material ignites, the phenomenon will not last more than 10 seconds. This means that ignition is possible, but combustion is excluded;
• during a fire, the temperature of the heat-insulating composition will not exceed 50 degrees;
• even with a possible fire, the loss of moisture from the total weight of the heat-insulating layer will not exceed 50%.

In addition to the non-combustible compounds listed above, they produce liquid varieties of non-combustible heat insulators for a cold attic, consisting of synthetic components. The most common among liquid varieties is polyurethane in liquid form. Such material is sealed and reliable, and absolutely safe to use.

Loose insulation

When choosing bulk insulation for the ceiling, you can focus on such types as:

• expanded clay;
• vermiculite;
• basalt wool.

The listed heat-insulating compositions have the following advantages:

1. affordable price;
2. resistance to various microorganisms;
3. good thermal insulation properties;
4. fireproof.

Among the shortcomings can be called different degrees of environmental safety. So, expanded clay at too high temperatures can release toxic substances. As for basalt wool, the material has an absolutely safe composition.

Loose heat-insulating compositions require the preparation of a place for laying. It is necessary to mount a stable formwork.

Foil insulation

You can perform insulation of the ceiling with foil insulation, among the advantages of which are the following indicators:

1. more than 95% of heat is reflected;
2. has a remarkable waterproofing property, retaining moisture;
3. does not dry out from high temperatures;
4. does not freeze in cold weather;
5. used as an additional soundproofing layer;
6. environmentally friendly and safe to use;
7. long service life;
8. prevents moisture from accumulating on the attic ceiling.

A good foil insulation for the ceiling inside is foam foam, produced by foaming. Other foil materials include:

• foam type polyethylene;
• folgoizolone;
• basalt wool metallized with foil;
• foil foam.

A variety of heat insulators with foil for interiors traps heat, preventing it from escaping to the outside.

Spray applied insulation

Polynor ceiling heaters are considered seamless materials applied by spraying. For laying the heat-insulating composition, a mounting gun is used, on which a special plastic nozzle is put on.

When applying the composition, it is easy to adjust the required thickness of the heat-insulating layer. The composition can be used as a heat-insulating layer for buildings made of any material, both for internal and external works.

The application of the layer does not require the installation of a frame and the presence of additional devices. It serves for a long time, and is safe in the process of application and further use.

TechnoNIKOL

TechnoNIKOL ceiling insulation is considered a type of stone wool. The heat-insulating material is produced on the basis of basalt components and has a fibrous structure.

Bath heater

When choosing which insulation is best for the ceiling of the bath, you should consider such points as:

• combustibility;
• environmental friendliness. When heated, the heater for the ceiling of the bath should not emit toxic substances;
• resistance to moisture and temperature extremes.

Materials that meet the listed characteristics include sawdust with clay, mineral wool, fiberglass wool.
It is better to choose a heater on the ceiling for a bath made of foil materials. This is a basalt fiber that allows steam to pass through and does not allow moisture to pass through.

Basalt wool will not rot during operation, is resistant to microorganisms, and does not deform. Which insulation for the bath ceiling to choose depends on what effect is expected from the heat-insulating layer. So, foil materials are able to create the effect of a thermos in the bath. And if you combine foil insulation with foamed polyethylene, you can get maximum heat savings.

Foreword. In order to keep warm in a private house, it is necessary to carry out a set of works on thermal insulation of all structures. Measures for thermal insulation of the ceiling from the side of the attic can be performed in several ways, it all depends on the type of ceiling slabs. The ceiling insulation technology involves two options - outside and inside the room, we will consider the thermal insulation of the ceiling from the attic side and show a video on this topic.

About 15% of heat loss occurs precisely through the ceiling, so it is necessary to insulate the ceiling from the attic side for the winter with high quality. But, before starting work, it is necessary to correctly select the heat-insulating material and familiarize yourself with the technology of work. This article will focus on events in a private house, while self-insulation of the ceiling of the apartment is performed in a similar way.

Ways to insulate the ceiling in a private house

When choosing between insulating the ceiling from the outside or from the inside of the room, several factors are taken into account. The insulation of the ceiling in the apartment is carried out from the side of the warm room, since the insulation from the outside affects the common house area. In apartment buildings, the installation of insulation increases the sound insulation of the interfloor floors of the apartment.

In a private house, the method of carrying out work is not limited by anything. The most correct option for thermal insulation of the ceiling is to carry out work outside, i.e. from the side of a cold attic in a private house. In this case, the entire floor structure is protected from freezing, which increases its service life. In addition, the insulation of floors from the side of the attic does not reduce the height of the room in the house.

Carrying out work from the attic does not require effort when fixing the insulation on the ceiling from below. In addition, no additional finishing of the premises is required. When choosing a heater for this method, the strength of the material is not important, as is the thermal conductivity. Mineral wool mats with low density are best suited for these purposes for warming horizontal surfaces.

How to insulate the ceiling from the attic

Consider how to insulate the ceiling from the side of the attic with your own hands. To begin with, the attic space is cleared of debris, the insulation must be laid on a clean and even base. Next, calculate the required amount of thermal insulation material. If you chose basalt wool to protect this structure, then a layer of rolled hydro-vapor barrier is laid from the side of the warm room.

The heat insulator is placed between the lags and covered with a wind and moisture protective film, which will prevent the insulation from getting wet. The presence of a rough flooring from the floorboards will allow you to freely walk around the attic and store various rubbish in this room. Next, we will study the advantages and disadvantages of each material in order to make the right choice of insulation to protect attic floors in a private house.

The choice of material for thermal insulation of the ceiling

Ecowool is a loose heat-insulating material, consisting of 80% recycled cellulose and 20% flame retardants and antiseptics (minerals and boric acid). Ecowool retains heat well, the thermal conductivity coefficient is about 0.041 watts per meter per degree Celsius. Thanks to the application technology in the attic, a solid coating is created without "cold bridges" in the ceilings.

mineral wool. To the class of mineral wool, builders include: stone wool, fiber from slag and fiberglass. Fiberglass consists of fibers up to 50 mm long and up to 15 microns thick. Glass wool mats and rolls are resilient and durable. Work with this material should be extremely careful, because. glass threads can dig into the skin, injure mucous membranes, hitting the eyes or lungs. Mineral wool should be protected with vapor barrier films.

Extruded polystyrene foam. The advantages of Technoplex thermal insulation in resistance to moisture and the absence of shrinkage during operation, unlike P-75 mineral wool or glass wool. The material does not lose the characteristics declared by the manufacturer even at 100% humidity, and the absence of formaldehyde in the composition of the insulation guarantees environmental safety for humans. At the same time, the material is quite durable and lightweight.

Foamed polyethylene. The thermal conductivity of Penofol is difficult to compare with traditional, for example, mineral heat insulators, since foil Penofol is a combined material. Insulation with Penofol helps to reduce heat loss in the room due to foamed polyethylene, and the metallized layer can reflect up to 97% of infrared radiation. At the same time, the material is available at a price.

Video. Ceiling insulation from the attic

The ceiling and roof account for, depending on local conditions and the design of the house, 15-40% of its heat loss. Builders for the insulation of ceilings, ceilings and roofs count the extra charge, because. the work is laborious and often it has to be done on weight. However, do-it-yourself ceiling insulation is quite possible without having a building qualification: the technology is not complicated and in most cases does not require special equipment. To help those who decide to warm themselves from above on their own, this article is intended.

The general scheme of ceiling insulation with modern materials is not very complicated in appearance, on the left in the figure: a vapor barrier (vapor barrier) does not allow moisture vapor from the inside to the insulation that can ruin it. The waterproofing membrane does not let liquid moisture into it, incl. and condensate in the attic, but releases water vapor to the outside, which nevertheless penetrates to the insulation. In negligible amounts, but, accumulating, it is able to nullify the insulation and spoil the structure of the building.

However, behind the external simplicity is a long evolution of insulation technology and many subtle nuances, without knowledge of which the work may be in vain. That's why will be considered next:

• Physics and features of insulation technology from above.
• Properties of modern insulating materials and additional coatings for them: roofing films, hydro- and vapor barriers; how to choose the right materials for insulation.
• The possibility of using traditional cheap insulators and heaters: clay, expanded clay, sawdust, etc.
• Schemes and methods of ceiling insulation: from the side of the attic, from the inside of the rooms; also from the inside from the side of the roof - for houses without an attic (eg summer houses and temporary houses) or with an attic.
• How to insulate the ceiling in a house with a cold roof and concrete floors.
• Ways to insulate the ceiling in utility rooms; primarily in the garage and bath.

Cold and warm roofs

A cold roof is called without the so-called. roofing cake: a multi-layer insulating building structure between the counter-lattice under the roofing and the inner lining along the rafters. The device of the roofing pie belongs to another topic - roof insulation, but then we will have to get to know it. Firstly, for non-attic buildings and attics. Secondly, in a private house, the insulation of the ceiling from the side of the attic and the roof are inextricably linked technologically and constructively, as can be seen on the right in the upper figure. Thermal insulation of the ceiling from the attic, along with the roof from the inside, provides the following advantages:

1. 2 layers of insulation 100 mm each, separated by an extensive thermal buffer in the form of an attic, are equivalent to 1 layer of the same material 270-280 mm;
2. From paragraph 1, savings in the cost of insulation up to 40%, and the total, taking into account the greater consumption of the film, by 10-15%, which allows the use of more efficient insulation materials;
3. By insulating the ceiling from the outside and the roof from the inside at the same time, you can get by with inter-beam insulation (see below), which is technologically simpler and more accessible to an unprepared amateur;
4. "Two-stage" insulation of the top of the building will allow in the future, if necessary, to additionally insulate the rooms from the inside separately without the risk of dampness of the room.

About mineral wool

Warming with mineral wool in the Russian Federation breaks all records of popularity: The material is inexpensive and easy to work with. This is explained primarily by large reserves of readily available raw materials and production technology that has been developed for many decades. The disposal of blast-furnace slag in the USSR had to be taken care of even during the industrial leap of the first five-year plans, and for a breakthrough into space, thermal protection of return capsules based on fibers from remelted heat-resistant rocks was developed. So the “modern” methods of producing slag wool and stone (especially basalt) wool are actually not so new.

Professionals especially like mineral wool: it does not need expensive special equipment, but there is a wide range of special fasteners and accessories for sale. As a result, the ceiling area up to 20-25 square meters. m, it is possible to insulate in less than 1 work shift, or even in 2-3 hours, this is who knows how. How it looks technologically, you can see in the video below.

Video: an example of ceiling insulation with mineral wool

After reading the following, you may have a question: where is the membrane between the insulation and the ceiling? It is quite possible that in this case it is not needed if the attic with the roof is already insulated; Why same hosts spread superfluous. More Attention should be paid to the following precautions when working with mineral wool:

• Established electrical wiring rolled into a bay and hanging on the wall.
• Judging by the fact that a temporary light bulb is used for working lighting, the room is completely de-energized, and its wiring is disconnected in the nearest junction box or on the inlet panel - this is absolutely correct and absolutely necessary.
• The master puts on a full set of personal protective equipment (PPE): special overalls, gloves, goggles, a respirator. For an amateur master, this is an important point, because. rather expensive PPE will have to be used once.

Here it is already clear that mineral wool is not without drawbacks: it is an allergen and carcinogen of group 3, i.e. suitable for residential premises, but it is necessary to work with it using PPE. In addition, which all manufacturers and sellers, without exception, are prudently silent about, under the influence of even negligible amounts of moisture vapor and its own weight, mineral wool gives irreversible shrinkage, as a result of which its thermal conductivity drops by 50% in 3 years: air gaps in the insulation are the same thermal bridges , like metal lintels, only based on microconvection. The gaps between the plates in 5% of the area of ​​the insulated surface increase heat loss by 30-35%

From this follows another unpleasant circumstance: the simplicity of working with mineral wool is apparent. When cutting boards / rolls to size, it is necessary to give an overlap (usually 20-40 mm) so that the boards fit tightly into the openings without sticking out, as on the right in the figure, but also so that cracks do not go from shrinkage in the future. Perhaps this is only on the basis of experience, because. material properties vary significantly from batch to batch.

Finally, the thermal conductivity of a completely new mineral wool significantly depends on its moisture content - in the direction of deterioration. An increase in air humidity in a room insulated with mineral wool from 60% to 85% leads to an increase in heat loss by 10-12%. Therefore, in the further presentation, focusing on mineral wool as the most popular insulation, we will give, where possible, recommendations for replacing it with something better.

Note: look also at the mounting jig (circled in green on the left in the figure). If you use a propylene linen cord instead of fishing line, then the jig can be left constant. Then special fasteners are not needed and, when mounted on a ceiling and surfaces with a negative slope, sagging of the middle and corners of the plates will be excluded.

Physics and technology of insulation

As you know, the critical factor for insulation is the dew point., the temperature at which this absolute, in g / cu. m of air, the content of water vapor in it corresponds to 100% relative humidity and condensation occurs. The dew point in residential premises is unacceptable: excessively humid air is detrimental to health, and for asthmatics and heart patients it can be a fatal circumstance.

For building structures, the dew point is no more useful: from periodic saturation with moisture, concrete and brick crumble, wood becomes moldy and rots, because. the resource of its antiseptic impregnation is not unlimited. Since it is impossible to drive the dew point out forever, it remains to let it “walk” on the insulation, ensuring its isolation from moisture vapor and ventilation. The easiest way to implement such a scheme of insulation is when installing a heater from the outside, pos. 1a in fig.

Ways to “fight” with the dew point during insulation

Sometimes it is technically impossible to insulate from the outside. Or additional insulation is required to the existing one. Analogue - in the old days, in especially severe frosts, they wore 2 fur coats: naked with fur inside, and on top of it - with fur outside. In this case, i.e. when insulating from the inside, its scheme is developed so that the condensate in the insulation migrates to the cold surface, and there it flows into the collection and is removed or evaporates to the outside, pos. 1b. In this case, the most insulating material is needed that does not lose its insulating properties when moistened. Such exist, see below.

Features of ceiling insulation

Features of ceiling insulation, firstly, is that it is impossible to organize a condensate drain. Even if the ceiling is sloping, does the water flow along the walls? Drained walls in construction are known, but their complexity and cost are such that it only remains to be mentioned here. Secondly, the warm (exuding water vapor) and cold sides of the ceiling in a low-rise building can also change places in the cold season, due to solar heating. Therefore, the ceiling insulation technology is primarily focused on ensuring that there is no condensate in the insulation. And if it has already formed, then you need to give it the opportunity to evaporate outward as quickly as possible, i.e. to the cold side.

cold overlap

On the ceiling of a material that conducts heat well, e.g. concrete, when insulated from the outside with loose material, 3 air gaps a, b and c, pos. 2a. Gap a, between the vapor barrier (vapor barrier) and the insulation layer - safety, in case of heavy condensation, which is possible on a cold surface. Gap a is necessarily ventilated, technically it is difficult to fulfill it, therefore it is desirable to insulate ceilings on concrete ceilings from the inside with massive, i.e. impervious to moisture, insulation. One of the practically important cases of this kind is considered below. Gap b is accumulating, it creates a partial pressure of water vapor, which ensures their diffusion through a semipermeable membrane that allows gases to pass through but retains liquid moisture. Gap c is the main working one, it is also ventilated, but, since it is located closer to the outside, it is easier to ensure its “ventilation”, for example, in the form of a slot around the perimeter.

Note: if there is a technical possibility and the ability to make the gap also ventilated, this will only benefit the insulation.

Warm overlay

"Warm", i.e. a ceiling that does not conduct heat well, creates a rather high barrier on the way of heat from the inside to the outside, shifting the dew point up into the insulation layer, if you look at pos. 2b. This makes it possible to do without gap a, which in turn simplifies the insulation of the wooden ceiling from the outside. Suddenly, the condensate at the border of the vapor barrier and the base will nevertheless fall out, then in a small amount, it will immediately be absorbed into the tree, and then, without bringing the humidity in the room to a critical level, it will slowly evaporate. Residents will most likely not notice this - wood keeps its mechanical and thermal parameters in a wide range of humidity.

Therefore, it is preferable to insulate the wooden ceiling from the attic, pos. 3: the base is covered with an inexpensive film vapor barrier (see below), a conventional waterproofing film without metallization will also go to the membrane. It is only necessary to arrange an air gap between the insulation and the membrane; its role has been discussed above.

Aweigh

The requirements for the vapor barrier are tightened if it is possible for water vapor to enter from free space, because. in this case, the intensity of their "attack" is unlimited. Then a vapor barrier is needed from a foil film, pos. 4, because no plastic is an absolute barrier to water vapor. Gap a between the vapor barrier and the insulation is also necessary, but now it is easier to provide it structurally. Press the vapor barrier against the insulation, as in pos. 5 is undesirable in all respects, even if the vapor barrier with the substrate, see below: both the work is superfluous and the insulation is worse.

Materials for insulation

Modern successes in building insulation technology are largely due to advances in the field of separating films (membranes). The “good old” roofing material and glassine with their counterparts still find application, but when working for yourself, the last thing you should save on films. And in view of the quality with durability, and in view of the fact that, having spent a little “above” on insulating membranes, you can save more on insulation. Therefore, we will start with membranes.

Barriers and membranes

As is clear from the previous one, separating coatings used in building insulation are divided into vapor barriers, or vapor barriers, which cut off liquids with their vapors, and waterproofing (membranes), which retain only the liquid phase. Vapor barriers, in turn, are divided into film, foil and foil with a capillary substrate (the so-called foil isols), and membranes are divided into single-layer film, microperforated film with double-sided vapor transmission, and the so-called. superdiffusion membranes that allow vapor to pass only in one direction.

Vapor barriers

Film vapor barriers are effective only polypropylene with a thickness of 60 microns. Polyethylene of any thickness, by virtue of its very nanostructure, is vapor permeable, no matter what anyone claims to the contrary. PVC under the influence of changes in temperature and humidity soon becomes brittle and cracks.

The basis of the foil vapor barrier can also be polyethylene, because. gases do not pass a layer of foil on it. On high-quality material of this class, the edge of the foil is felt at the edge of the tape, and it can be picked up by the corner with a sharp knife, i.e. foil is thick enough. Foil insulators with a substrate also have a layer of fibrous material (most often synthetic winterizer) on the back, i.e. the side facing the heater. If condensate falls out, it quickly goes through the capillaries of the substrate to the edges of the coating, so the foil insulation with the substrate must be mounted with lapels, like waterproofing the floor, going into the ventilation gap around the perimeter.

Note: in insulation structures on foil insulations with a substrate, the “insurance” gap “a” (see above) is not required.

membranes

Simple film membranes are common waterproofing, incl. and polyethylene. For insulation of ceilings, they are suitable only in heated rooms, because. in addition to vapors, liquids are also passed in a noticeable amount. When insulating from the attic, it is desirable to use microperforated films. Most often they are produced in 3-layer with reinforcement, on the left in the figure; are also used as coatings for greenhouses and greenhouses. To insulate the ceiling in them, it is good that the reinforcing mesh does not allow the film to sag much and ensures a stable gap height b.

Superdiffusion membranes are commercially available as roofing films, in the center in fig. Their outer side is smooth, metallized, designed for resistance to atmospheric precipitation. Vapors pass through it to the outside; the outer side is either marked, or it is outside and in a roll. The wind strength of the underlay films is provided by through reinforcement: for high-quality membranes, it is easily felt from the inside, and the film looks as if quilted, on the right in Fig.

Heaters

Materials for the actual insulation are divided into:

• Monolithic, or massive - dense, waterproof. The dew point can wander in them as you like without compromising the quality of insulation.
• Loose, fibrous and porous - are produced in the form of plates (mats) or rolls. The cheapest and most technologically advanced in comparison with the quality of insulation. They are hygroscopic, the properties of the material deteriorate from moisture, often irreversibly, so measures are needed to protect the insulation from moisture and its ventilation.
• Bulk / sprayed - an insulating layer is formed on the spot; high-quality insulation requires special equipment.

Monolithic

From monolithic heaters, foamed polystyrene is suitable for independent work. The attic and ceiling under a cold roof must be insulated with extruded polystyrene foam - EPS. For insulation, EPPS is produced with grooved boards, which eliminates the formation of air thermal bridges; therefore, foam insulation schemes are very simple and inexpensive due to the low cost of membranes, see for example. in fig. XPS does not shrink, is not hygroscopic. It is durable, able to work as part of load-bearing structures, its insulating qualities are the highest, and outdoor durability, according to the latest data, is up to 100 years or more.

Ordinary granular foam plastic can begin to crumble from strong fluctuations in external conditions in just a winter, but it is cheap, easy to process and mount on any surface with water-based tile adhesive or PVA. Its layer of 30 mm is equivalent to 100 mm of mineral wool, so it is advisable to insulate heated rooms with low ceilings from the inside with foam.

Foam and XPS boards do not bend, so they can only be mounted on open surfaces; to insulate the EPS roof, you will have to disassemble the roof. However, a more serious drawback is its flammability and the release of a huge amount of highly toxic gases when ignited. If a fire in a room insulated with expanded polystyrene from the inside occurred at night, when everyone is sleeping, then the residents are actually doomed: it is possible to evacuate people under such circumstances only in some cases. Therefore, it is possible to use expanded polystyrene for internal insulation only in limited quantities and when it is impossible in any other way; see one of these options below.

Fibrous/porous

The main advantage of loose insulation is high labor productivity with them without the use of special equipment, which is why professional individuals are so committed to them, for whom time is money. Mineral wool and sheet / slab polyurethane foam (neoprene) are suitable for independent work from "rukhlyakov". Mineral wool was analyzed in detail earlier, and neoprene for warming large areas is too expensive, although it is not afraid of moisture and is comparable in durability to EPPS.

Sprayed and bulk

In terms of the combination of operational qualities, EPPS is almost as good as sprayed foam insulation. When frozen, they look like polystyrene, but are made on a formaldehyde-carbamide basis, so they burn poorly and emit little, not very toxic smoke. The mass forming penoizol can be fed into hard-to-reach cavities, and kraft paper or glassine is enough from the separators, so long as the foaming mass does not stick out through the cracks. However, penoizols themselves are not cheap, and are sprayed using expensive installations. To work with a foam insulation station, serious professional training is required, therefore, equipment for spraying foam insulation is not rented.

You can work with cellulose insulation or ecowool on your own: using a blowing machine for it does not require vocational training, so they are widely sold and rented, from transported vehicles to small ones like a backpack or suitcase. Ecowool as a heater is relatively little known in the Russian Federation, but compared to mineral wool, it is simply a miracle:

• In terms of thermal conductivity, 0.037-0.042 W / (m * K) is approximately equal to mineral wool; an ecowool thickness of 100 mm is equivalent to a wall of 3 solid red bricks. This makes it possible to get by with inter-beam insulation, see below.
• Up to a humidity of 20%, the heat-insulating properties of ecowool do not fall; on drying after limiting moisture, they are completely restored.
• Sorption moisture absorption for 72 hours in an atmosphere with 100% humidity - 16%.
• Does not shrink, does not puff.
• Chemically neutral, non-corrosive.
• Due to the presence of 12% antiseptic (boric acid) and 7% flame retardant (borax) in the composition, it is slightly flammable and almost does not emit smoke in an extremely hot flame, see left in Fig. below.

• Unattractive to rodents: glass wool is eaten, but ecowool is not touched. After 5 years of application in a house where mice are teeming, their moves in ecowool are not detected.
• Application is possible dry by hand on open horizontal surfaces, with moistening with a blower into hard-to-reach cavities (in the center and on the right in the figure), with moistening and the addition of 5-15% glue on vertical surfaces and with a negative slope, both manually and by spraying .
• High labor productivity when spraying moistened (which the pros should also pay attention to): the floor, walls, ceiling and roof (!) of a house with an attic area in terms of 120 sq. m are "blown out" for 1 work shift.

Note, for your reference: ecowool goes on sale under the names Cellulose Insulation, EKOFIBER AB, EKOREMA, EKOVILLA, EXCEL, ISODAN, SELLUVILLA, TERMEX. The world leader in production and application is Finland.

The most serious advantage of ecowool is that it is hypoallergenic and hypocarcinogenic., i.e. does not show any of these properties. The raw material for the production of ecowool is waste paper, but who, where and when, has something inflamed or itched from old newspapers? Is that in the brains of the content of the articles. But for the preparation of ecowool, the paper carrier, together with the content, is ground into a homogeneous gray mass.

Ecowool has three disadvantages:

1. Firstly, the cost per unit of its mass is about 30% higher than that of mineral wool. However, if we take into account the difference in the cost of PPE for mineral wool and the rental of a manual "blower", then the high cost remains approx. fifteen%. Let's also discard the cost of membranes (kraft paper on the warm side is enough for ecowool) - the cost of insulation is almost equal. And if you manually insulate the ceiling from the attic, then ecowool will cost less.
2. Secondly, ecowool must be prepared before use. The initial mass is sold compressed by 2.5-3.5 times, it needs to be fluffed up in some container, add, if necessary, water and glue. This is already bad for the pros; time is money, and blow molding machines that prepare the mass themselves are very expensive. But for an amateur and one-time work, this drawback is not particularly significant.
3. Thirdly, moistened ecowool must be applied in any way at temperatures above 23 degrees and air humidity up to 65-70% so that it can dry. This already seriously hinders its use: until the thunder breaks out, the peasant will not cross himself. In the summer, who thinks about warming? And the chills and bills for heating went - you can only apply it dry, far from everywhere and not always.

Note: if you have some ecowool left from work, keep in mind that this is an excellent material for papier-mâché crafts.

Expanded clay and foam crumb

Traditional expanded clay (on the left in the figure), the advantages and disadvantages of which are known, can also be replaced by a slightly more expensive, but better material - foam glass crumb or simply foam crumb, right there. Foam crumb is lighter than expanded clay, so it can be poured onto a weak base: fragile flooring, into drywall pockets (see below), etc. Its heat-insulating properties are higher, allergenic and carcinogenic were not found. An example of a two-stage ceiling insulation with expanded clay and mineral wool is shown in fig. below. The film membrane (bilaterally permeable, not roofing) provides vapor exchange between the insulation stages, which is necessary to avoid condensation in the mineral wool. If expanded clay is replaced with foam crumb, and mineral wool with ecowool, then polyethylene 120 microns thick will be enough instead of a membrane. In this case, the mounting jig is not needed, and the insulation from the inside can be used to the full height of the ceiling beams.

Sawdust and shavings

Waste wood processing is also a traditional heater. How to insulate the attic with shavings, see the video below. Ceiling insulation with sawdust is more attractive, first, because of their poor flammability. Secondly, at the nearest sawmill, they can offer you sawdust for free in any quantity, and even deliver it at your own expense.

Video: insulation with sawdust ceiling and floor in the attic

However, the availability of sawdust is the other side of the coin, they have a very big drawback: they can “oppose”, ferment. In this case, CH3OH vapors are released. Yes, yes, that same wood (methyl) alcohol, from which unlucky drunks, into whose throats with a voluptuous gurgling everything that is not water, it would seem, go blind and die. Therefore, sawmillers are happy to get rid of sawdust: according to modern sanitary requirements, sawdust from under the sawmill must be removed continuously and immediately sent for disposal.

Meanwhile, getting rid of both disadvantages of wood waste is not so difficult and expensive. Approximately in the same way that ecowool is made safe. Proper insulation with woodworking waste is carried out as follows:

• Work is carried out in the summer in the very heat and dryness;
• In advance, in 2 separate containers (necessarily separate), strong solutions of boric acid and borax are prepared;
• Insulation is poured in layers of 3-5 cm;
• Each layer is abundantly sprayed with one and the other solutions alternately with the help of a stucco brush or a homemade sprinkler;
• The next layer is poured and sprayed after the previous one has completely dried.

As for sawdust, a reliable guarantee against their fermentation, even in a damp attic, is also provided by backfilling on a base of slab and clay, see below. To describe why, here, unfortunately, there is no way; the point is the unique properties of clay and the outer layers of coniferous wood. Insulation of this type is known in houses more than 100 years old. But, once again, unfortunately, it is difficult to find oily clay in nature, it is a valuable mineral raw material, and on sale it is not cheap.

How to insulate the ceiling?

From the attic

The main ways to insulate the ceiling from the outside, i.e. from the attic, shown in fig. It is preferable, of course, to get by with inter-beam insulation. In this case, please note that with a sufficiently massive ceiling roll-up, you need to make the lapels of the vapor barrier on the ceiling beams or encircle them entirely with vapor protection. The vapor barrier can then be film. If the ceiling is hemmed thin, then the jumps in its thermal resistance at the locations of the beams can be harmful. Then the foil vapor barrier is fixed from the inside between the beams and the ceiling sheathing.

With full insulation, i.e. up to the calculated power of the heater, the scheme on the right will be more laborious, but also more efficient, acc. sections of rice: the inter-beam layer is laid in rolls or slabs, and the over-beam layer is made of square mats apart, i.e. with offset seams.

Note: See also the section in Fig. bottom right. This is the same slab insulation with clay, suitable for all types of insulation without the use of synthetic membranes.

From within

No attic

In the private economy, in addition to the additional insulation described above, from the inside, most often it is necessary to insulate non-attic buildings "on the go", in the middle of the cold season. For example, they started to build, built a utility block or a temporary hut for a while, and then it turned out that they would have to spend the winter in it. Or the chickens have stopped laying, the pig has become sad for something and is emaciated before our eyes. There's nothing you can do about it, you'll have to insulate the roof.

A typical design of a warm roof is shown on the left in fig. Insulation lapels down are necessary to avoid freezing of corners. This system has 2 nodes, A and B (ventilated ridge and counter-rail, or counter-bar), which seem to be impossible to complete without dismantling the roof. However, the “bypass” scheme of node A is shown in Fig. top right. Here it is taken into account that, firstly, in light buildings from individual developers, as a rule, there is no ridge beam, and the ridge "beam" is made by knocking down 2 boards in an L-shaped manner. Ventilation holes are drilled 2-3 per span between the rafters. If the entire roof is only roofing material, then there is nothing to do so that the rain does not drip through the ventilation, you need to climb up and install some kind of ridge run with a gap, at least from bent galvanized strips.

How to deal with node B is shown at the bottom right. It uses the fact that in a small samostroy the crossbar (bearing structure) of the roof is not beamed. The role of the longitudinal beams of the crossbar cut into the rafter legs is laid on the boards of the lathing under the roof, and the spans between the rafters are free from top to bottom. In Fig., presumably, everything is clear: the roofing membrane will have to be applied in pieces, and the necessary power of the insulation is obtained, if necessary, with the help of backing bars.

In an apartment building

Self-insulating ceilings in an apartment building is possible only from the inside. Firstly, tenants do not have the right to work on the roof or in the common attic; Secondly, why do we pay contributions for overhaul? The roof is cold - you need to demand its insulation from the operator; does not want - all legal rights are on the side of the tenants.

Nevertheless, while there is fuss and trials, you can do something with your own hands to insulate the ceiling in the apartment. A typical scheme for insulating the ceiling from the inside on concrete is shown on the left in fig. Its main drawback is not at all expensive, subject to corrosion and far from always as effective as manufacturers say, special metal profiles for insulation with thermal seals-thermal washers. Not the same as thermal washers for mounting polycarbonate! Both can be replaced with a wooden crate. And not special materials for the thermal gap along the perimeter and the complexity of working with them.

The main thing is that 0.4-0.5 m is subtracted from the height of the room. This does not add habitability in modern apartments in any way, but what about Khrushchev houses with 2.5 m ceilings that are most in need of insulation?

But here, too, there is an acceptable way out. Let us take into account, firstly, that in stone houses heat escapes through the ceiling, mainly in the corners. Whoever has not seen how the ceilings in single-family apartments get moldy and moldy, take my word for it. Secondly, block and monolithic houses are very resistant to fires. It is possible to achieve an extensive fire in them only by a well-thought-out malicious influence. Therefore, it is possible to use granulated foam in a small amount.

The scheme for insulating a concrete ceiling, worked out back in Brezhnevka, when drywall appeared on sale, is given on the right in fig. From the height of the ceiling in this way, only approx. 5 cm. It is quite difficult to fill the pockets of the corners along it, therefore this technology did not really take root even then: the corners are sheathed first on the short sides of the room and filled with insulation from the sides. Then the corners of the long sides are sheathed and the insulation is poured into the gaps between the laths of the crate. Styrofoam and horizontal filing are mounted last.

And now let's remember once again about ecowool. Will it be difficult to blow it into your pockets? At least through temporary technological hatches? The question is rhetorical.

Special cases

Attic

Attic insulation is actually the same special topic as roof insulation. Here it is appropriate to mention it again in connection with ecowool. See what is on the left in the figure, filled with red. In private houses, it is either impossible to climb into this attic without dismantling the roof, or it is impossible to work there. And you can blow out with ecowool instead of the recommended roll insulation without much difficulty.

Garage and bath

Garage roofs are often mounted on steel I-beams or channels. Reliable, the price doesn’t really bite, but what to do with such thermal bridges if you need to insulate? The diagram of the garage ceiling insulation on steel beams is given on the left in fig. Its peculiarity is that the insulation boards are laid in at least 2 layers apart horizontally and vertically. In this way, when insulating with mineral wool, it is possible to reduce heat loss to acceptable levels. If you use ecowool, then the cavities between the beams and between the sewing and the beams are simply blown out with it. Folgoizol is then not needed, enough kraft paper from the inside along the ceiling filing.

With a bath, things are simpler: the features of its design, without which a bath is not a bath, and the thermal / humidity mode of operation make it possible to develop a universal scheme for warming the ceiling of a bath, which is shown in Fig. on right. Feature: if the insulation is mineral wool, then it is certainly basalt, the other will not pull thermal loads and periodic dampening. If you insulate the bath with ecowool, then the peculiarity is that you need to cook the mass with the addition of glue.

The ceiling is the area in the room that is responsible for the preservation of heat. After all, heat rises, and if the ceiling is defective and there are no obstacles in its path, then it slips out. Insulation of the attic space is possible, and now we will look at how to insulate the ceiling from the attic side in various ways.

The need for insulation

Attic insulation in the private sector will be required in the following cases:

1. The house is being prepared for construction and the ceiling consists of beams only.
2. A residential building, but the ceiling needs to be insulated, as it allows cold into the premises.
3. In the attic, the temperature is much lower than in the living room, and so that the heat of an unheated room does not go outside, it is insulated.

Types of heaters

When insulating the ceiling, the following materials are used:

• Sawdust.
• Expanded clay.
• Clay.
• Reeds.
• Seaweed.
• Ecowool.
• Penoplex.
• Minvata.
• Polyurethane foam (foam).

Let's consider each material separately.

Ceiling insulation methods

What are the principles of attic insulation? It's no secret that the best insulation is air. In the current thermal insulation materials there is air, which is enclosed in a form in different ways.

Since the experience of the last century, the air that is locked in the attic has been an excellent insulating "material" as it changes with seasons or weather conditions.

The floor of the attic was insulated with a natural bulk substance. And all this helped to keep the temperature inside the heated room up to + 25 ° C. The positive thing is that these materials do not get damp in the attic due to regular ventilation.

Sawdust

Smear the cracks in the wooden floor with watery clay, pour sand on top, but if the clay cracks in some place, then sand gets into the cavity and the integrity of the coating will not change. Further, the main layer is sawdust (thickness can be either 15–20 cm or 25–30 cm). Sawdust is a combustible material, in order to protect it from fire, a layer of waste slag is poured on top. Boards are laid on top of the slag, for the convenience of walking on the floor.

To protect the sawdust from pests (mice), fill in a layer of slaked lime, mixed with carbonite.

The floor must be protected from excessive moisture. To do this, lay a waterproofing film on the wood floor with the possibility of steam passing from the edge of the living space, or cover the floor with clay, mix sawdust and cement (10: 1, where 10 parts of sawdust, 1 part of cement) and then add 1.5 parts of water . Pour the resulting mixture on the floor of the attic or between the beams of the subfloor. This work is best done in the spring, so that the cement with sawdust dries well in the summer. After drying, the sawdust does not break through, but crunch a little underfoot.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is a heavy substance, it is used to insulate ceilings from concrete floors, because there is a possibility that a wooden ceiling may collapse under the weight of this insulation.

Insulation of the ceiling from the side of the attic begins with a vapor barrier film. It is necessary to cover it with an overlap, and glue the joints with adhesive tape. The overlap on the walls will be up to 50 cm. The wooden rafters and the chimney are pasted over with the same film.

The next step is to place the mixed clay. Further, on top - expanded clay.

In order for the heat-insulating material to be durable, you need to take small and large expanded clay (the fine fraction will perfectly fill the voids, then the backfill will become homogeneous). In cold climates, expanded clay should be laid in a layer of at least 500 mm.

A sand-cement screed is laid on top of the expanded clay in a layer of 50 mm. The solution is quite thick. After drying, such an attic is used as a boiler room. It is fireproof and environmentally friendly.

Clay

Clay in its pure form is not used as a heater, because for the effective operation of thermal insulation, such a layer must be at least 50 cm. For this reason, clay is mixed with straw or sawdust.

Initially, a vapor barrier film is laid on the floor, impermeable to moisture (at that time, a sawdust-clay solution is being prepared). Then add 5 buckets of clay (1 bucket approximately 10 liters) to a barrel with a large capacity.

Clay, being in water, should be almost all dissolved. Pour part of the mixture into the concrete mixer little by little and throw in the sawdust. When mixing the whole consistency, gradually add water.

The solution should be neither thick nor liquid. It must be applied to the ceiling with a layer of 20 cm. The entire surface is leveled and left to dry completely (if cracks occur, they are again smeared with clay).

reeds

A good option would be to insulate the attic in a wooden house with reed mats. Such mats are interconnected by wire or twine, stacked on top of the floors. It is better if they are laid in two layers, so that the cold will not be passed into the premises of the house.

Seaweed

Algae is a natural insulating material. You can buy them in coastal regions at affordable prices by ordering home delivery. Seaweed will not get rodents, they are anti-allergenic, do not burn or smoke.

Due to the fact that the algae is not afraid of moisture, it is not vapor barrier. Ladders are laid on the floor from it, in a layer of 20 cm, and boards are equipped on top.

Ecowool

Cellulose wool (ecowool) is an excellent natural substance that ensures the preservation of heat. Fireproof due to treatment with boric acid. It perfectly absorbs moisture, for this reason it is not necessary to lay a vapor barrier film. Cellulose wool is laid on both wooden and concrete floors.

With the help of a blowing machine, ecowool is blown into the cracks. The layer, in such a heater, comes out saturated and whole, with an air "prisoner" inside.

A layer of ecowool of 25 cm is sufficient, but in most cases the thermal insulation layer of the attic floor is 40–50 cm. When applying ecowool, at the end of work, water can be sprayed to increase the formation of a solid layer.

Penoplex

Penoplex is polystyrene foam with excellent strength properties. It is used when warming the concrete floor, before the concrete floor is poured. Such material is not used for wooden floors, because it will not “breathe”, as a result of which fungi and mold will appear on the tree.

Before laying, the attic floor is leveled, after which the vapor barrier material is laid. Next, the plates are laid out with a run, and the surface is fixed with dowels with a cap. Fill the joints with mounting foam, and when it dries, fill it with a sand-cement screed in a layer of 5 cm.

mineral wool

The most popular insulation material is mineral wool. It is available in rolls and in rigid boards.

A vapor barrier material is laid between the wooden beams (since mineral wool is incompatible with moisture). The film is spread with an overlap, gluing the joints with adhesive tape.

From the side of the walls, an allowance of 150-250 mm is made. After that, rolls of cotton wool are placed in a thickness of 200–250 mm. The rolls should enter the space with little effort, cut with a margin of 20 mm (greater than the distance of the beams). Then the mineral wool is covered with wooden boards (with a gap between the board and the wool of 3 mm).

If the floor is concrete, then the concrete floors are leveled, then a vapor barrier film is covered, and tiled mineral wool is laid on top of it. Then the flooring is equipped with wood, plywood or other materials.

Do not screed on mineral wool, as concrete has poor vapor permeability, because of this, the main rules of thermal insulation will be violated.

Polyurethane foam (foam)

Polyurethane foam is a non-combustible insulation material, neutral for insects and microorganisms, has good soundproofing and waterproofing properties, tolerates temperature changes perfectly, with no cold bridges.

The material is sprayed under high pressure. So, it gets into all the cracks, enveloping all the protruding elements. The layer of such material is 100–120 mm.

The process of insulating an attic in a private house is simple, the main thing is to figure out what kind of material for insulation is most acceptable in your case.

Video

You can learn more about how to insulate the ceiling from the attic side by watching the video:

Scheme

The schemes proposed by us will help you to insulate the ceiling with high quality:

www.stroitelstvosovety.ru

How and what is better to insulate the ceiling in a private house

In order to keep the heat in the room, it is necessary to carry out thermal insulation measures. 15% of all heat loss occurs through the ceiling. Before you carry out the insulation of your ceiling in a private house with your own hands, you need to correctly select the material and familiarize yourself with the technology of work. Activities can be performed in several ways, it all depends on the type of insulated ceiling.

Ways to perform work

The ceiling insulation technology assumes the existence of only two installation options:

• outside the premises;
• from inside the room.

When choosing between them, several factors are taken into account. The article is about holding events in a private house, it is worth remembering that the insulation in the apartment is carried out according to the same principle, but the work can only be done from below, since the insulation from above affects the upper apartment or attic - the common house area.

Outside ceiling insulation scheme

Most often, in apartment buildings, insulation is required to increase the sound insulation of interfloor ceilings or thermal insulation of the ceiling of the last floor.

In a private house, the choice of method is limited only by the decision of the owner of the house. Carrying out measures for interfloor ceilings (as sound insulation) is not required, they carry out thermal protection of the ceiling of the last floor in the presence of an unheated attic. It is worth noting that a competent option is the thermal insulation of the ceiling from the outside, from the side of cold air. This has the following advantages:

The phased process of insulating the ceiling with mineral wool

• in addition to the room, the floor structure is insulated, which increases its service life;
• ceiling insulation from the attic side does not reduce the height of the upper floor;
• the work does not require serious efforts (when fixing the insulation from below, you must constantly keep your head up and use a ladder or other means of access);
• with different methods of thermal insulation measures, the location of the dew point (condensation point) changes, when warmed from the side of warm air, it gets into the thickness of the floor pie, which can cause problems in the future;
• the method does not affect the interior decoration of the premises, if in the future it is necessary to replace the insulation, the work can be done quickly and without additional financial costs.

If necessary, the ceiling can be insulated from the inside.

Insulation from the attic

Thermal protection from the side of cold air is best carried out with materials that have a high density and rigidity. An attic is a space in which it is necessary to provide access for the passage of a person. If compressible, fragile material is laid on top of the attic floor, it may crumple, deform or collapse and cease to perform its functions. When choosing a heater for this method, strength is as important as thermal conductivity.

The scheme of insulation of the ceiling in the attic

Before you insulate the ceiling in a private house, you need to familiarize yourself with the order of work:

1. The attic space is cleared of debris and dirt. The insulation must lie on a clean and even base.
2. The space is measured, the required amount of thermal insulation material is calculated.
3. Depending on the material chosen, a vapor barrier layer is provided. It must be laid on the side of warm air relative to the heat insulator. Not all materials need vapor barrier, if the insulation is resistant to moisture and has a low moisture absorption coefficient, no additional measures are required.
4. Laying is carried out in two ways, the choice between which depends on the strength of the purchased material. If thermal protection is carried out with a high-strength insulation, it can be laid under a cement-sand screed. To increase the reliability of the structure, the screed is taken with a thickness of at least 2 cm and is additionally reinforced with wire reinforcement with a diameter of 3-4 mm. If the strength of the heat insulator is not high enough, installation is carried out between the lags. The presence of a wooden frame allows you to remove the load on the floor of the room from the insulation and transfer it through the bars to the ceiling.
5. After installation of the heat-insulating layer, waterproofing is provided. It will prevent the insulation from getting wet from the outside. Water in the attic can appear during roof leaks or liquid spills, waterproofing in case of unforeseen situations protects the heat-insulating layer from loss of performance. The simplest material for waterproofing is polyethylene film.
6. The next step is the installation of the floor pie.

Warming from the inside

Before you insulate the ceiling, choose a fairly light material. In contrast to the installation of thermal protection from the outside, the insulation of the ceiling from the inside does not require the use of durable heat insulators. In this case, they try to choose the insulation that will hold securely on a horizontal surface. The smaller all the layers, the easier it is to mount it.

An example of correct and incorrect installation of insulation

To understand how to properly insulate the ceiling in this case, you need to familiarize yourself with the order of work:

1. As with the previous method, first the surface is cleaned of dirt and dust. Calculate the required amount of material.
2. Next, the installation of a wooden or metal frame is required. If during installation from the outside it can be laid without additional bars or boards, then when installing from below, it is better to ensure reliable fastening. The ceiling structure is subsequently attached to the frame. As frame elements, wooden boards or bars or an aluminum ceiling profile are used.
3. The insulation is placed between the guides. Mounting can be glued to the ceiling or using fasteners to the frame. Both of these options are often used together.
4. The final stage is the installation of the ceiling.

Materials for insulation

The choice of thermal insulation layer depends on the method of insulation and the financial capabilities of the owner of the house. To answer the question, what is the best way to insulate the ceiling, you need to distribute the materials that can be used for each case.

For the top method use:

• rigid mineral wool boards (for more details, see the article “Insulation of your ceiling in a private house with mineral wool”);
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• polystyrene of high strength grades, placed between the lags or under a reinforced screed;
• polyurethane foam (only between the lags);
• sawdust;
• expanded clay.

The last two options are suitable for those who care about the environmental component of construction. Expanded clay and sawdust are an inexpensive and natural option for thermal insulation.

When insulating the ceiling from the side of the room, you can use:

• Styrofoam;
• mineral wool in mats;
• polyurethane foam.

These materials are lightweight and are fixed without problems. Before you properly insulate the ceiling, you need to prepare.

Study the advantages and disadvantages of each material and make the right choice. A careful approach will allow you to perform insulation for many years.

domzastroika.ru

We insulate the ceiling in a house with a cold roof

Ceiling insulation in a house with a cold roof

Builders often charge a lot of money for work on roof insulation. This is motivated by the fact that these are labor-intensive works that are carried out on weight. To save money, you can do the insulation of the mansard roof of a wooden house yourself. Special qualifications are not needed here, special equipment is not required. And it doesn’t matter if your roof is made of ondulin, metal tile or slate, gable or broken structure. However, modern insulating materials and proven cold roof insulation technology have many nuances that you need to know.

It is not difficult to make the roof warm, and the premises of a private wooden house suitable for year-round use. The main thing is to create good conditions for maintaining heat inside the attic. How to insulate the roof, what materials to use, we will consider in this article. Insulation issues can be addressed both during the construction of the house, and after, by reconstructing the upper floor.

Features of a cold roof

In accordance with the laws of physics and convection processes, warm air masses rise to the top. In the presence of a cold roof of a wooden house, all the heat will go outside. Such heat losses make it necessary to additionally heat the premises in the house, spending electricity or fuel. Therefore, high-quality insulation of ceiling slabs is the most important task for maintaining heat, rational use of heat carriers and creating a microclimate in the house.

Attic roof insulation

Cold refers to the construction of a gable or broken roof, which does not have a multilayer structure. In such inexpensive and simple roofs, there is no waterproofing, vapor barrier and thermal insulation.

cold roof insulation

The design scheme of a gable cold roof is very simple - as a rule, a floor of boards is laid on the beams of a wooden floor, and the roof is made of slate or metal tiles, without any insulators. In order to properly insulate a cold roof, you need to know what requirements apply to the design of the ceiling of the upper floor and attic floors. And also you should choose the right insulation material.

Scheme of gable roof rafters

Requirements for roofing

When starting to insulate a roof made of ondulin, slate or metal tiles, broken or hip, you should know what building codes and rules exist for the floors of a private wooden house. In order not to violate the basic parameters that the attic design must meet, the thermal insulation of the ceiling and the insulation of the mansard roof from the inside should be carried out taking into account the basic requirements. For attic floors and ceilings, this is strength and compliance with fire safety standards.

roofing cake

The strength of the attic floors must correspond to the nature of the under-roof space. If an attic is arranged in the attic, then the ceilings must withstand the weight of the floors, furniture and people in it. Floor beams must not sag, and the allowable load cannot exceed 100 kg per square meter.

Load on the gable roof truss system

The second basic requirement - fire safety is especially important for a wooden house. All structural elements must be treated with special flame retardants.

Gable roof truss system

Types of heat-insulating materials

In order to qualitatively insulate the construction of a wooden ceiling and the entire roof made of metal tiles, a variety of heat insulators are used.

Types of heaters

Main types:

• polystyrene and foam plastic;
• mineral wool;
• ecowool;
• glass wool;
• foamed polyurethane;

Each of the listed heaters has its pros and cons. The choice of insulation for the ceiling and for metal tiles depends on various factors. Therefore, you should familiarize yourself with each type of heat insulator in more detail in order to understand the better it is to insulate the ceiling floors and the entire upper floor.

Insulation of a mansard roof made of metal tiles

Budget options for insulation

In addition to the listed thermal insulation materials, there are inexpensive, bulk heaters. Such materials also carry out the insulation of the mansard roof. Bulk heat insulators include:

• sawdust and shavings;
• expanded clay;
• slag;
• ecowool.

To prevent the crumb of insulation from waking up through the cracks of the wooden floor, you can lay a plastic film.

Ecowool insulation

But remember at the same time that there will be no vapor barrier, since polyethylene does not allow moisture to pass through, which can condense in the room of the upper floor. Backfill insulation requires calculations of the strength of the floors. It is necessary to make sure that the beams can withstand a considerable weight of bulk insulator, as well as slate or metal tiles.

Ceiling insulation from the outside with expanded clay

Another economical option for ceiling insulation is the installation of corrugated cardboard. Sheets of material are fastened with self-tapping screws or building brackets to the attic floor. Joints and seams are sealed with polyurethane foam. Electrical wiring is retracted into corrugated channels, protecting wooden structures from fire.

Roof insulation with corrugated cardboard

General scheme of ceiling insulation

Roof and ceiling structures are the most vulnerable elements to heat loss in a home. They account for from 15 to 40 percent of the total heat transfer of the house, regardless of the roofing material - metal tiles or slate. In addition, to create a comfortable climate in the house, a vapor barrier must be made to protect the insulation from evaporation, as well as waterproofing of the ceiling and attic floor.

Scheme of vapor barrier, waterproofing and roof insulation

It is recommended to carry out the insulation of a wooden house in a complex way, arranging the thermal insulation of the roof from the inside and the ceiling at the same time. This will save insulating material, since two ten-centimeter layers of heat insulator with an air gap in the attic space replace a layer of the same insulation with a thickness of 25-30 cm. Thus, about forty percent of thermal insulation is saved. External insulation of the ceiling with simultaneous thermal insulation of the roof from the side of the attic will give a good effect and will avoid dampness of the lower rooms. Such thermal insulation can be carried out without dismantling the roof of metal tiles and the ceiling of the upper floor.

Reflective roof insulation

Features of ceiling insulation

They consist in the fact that when installing thermal insulation, there is no way to organize the removal of condensate, which is formed due to the temperature difference between the attic and lower rooms. In addition, depending on the season, there is a change of warm and cold sides. Therefore, when installing thermal insulation of a wooden ceiling, it is necessary to provide for the complete absence of condensate on the insulation.

Scheme of ceiling insulation in a wooden house

You can prevent the formation of condensate by laying a special vapor barrier - a film material that allows moisture to pass through in one direction.

It should be laid in such a way that there is a gap between the insulation material and the film.

It should be noted that when insulating the ceiling, the correct use of the separating film is of great importance. Below we will consider their varieties.

Ceiling insulation

Membranes and release film materials

Modern technologies allow the use of more and more diverse materials that allow water, steam and other substances to pass or repel. Years of proven glassine, roofing material and tar, used on slate roofs or metal roofs, fade into the background and are rarely used. Technological membrane-type insulating films are much lighter, more convenient to use and, importantly, perform their function more purposefully and efficiently. In addition, they are reliable, strong and durable, and their thickness is much less. The correct scheme of their application is important.

Super diffusion membrane for pitched roofs

Enlarged insulating materials can be divided into two groups.

1) Vapor barrier. For this purpose, so-called vapor barriers are used - thin-layer materials that do not allow evaporation to pass through. In turn, they can be:

• film;
• foil;
• foiled with a capillary substrate (folgoizol).

The vapor barrier protects the roof insulation

2) Waterproofing. It is carried out with materials that do not allow moisture and any liquids to pass through, called membranes. Are divided into:

• simple film with one layer;
• microperforated with steam penetration in both directions;
• superdiffusion, with vapor permeation in one direction.

Roof waterproofing

Vapor barrier is best arranged using polypropylene film materials, the thickness of which is from 55 microns. Polyethylene films are not suitable for evaporation protection, because they let air through regardless of their thickness, due to their structural features.

The PVC film is sensitive to temperature changes and changes in humidity, it can perform its role poorly over time, and even crack.

For a foil vapor barrier, polyethylene can be used as a base, since the foil prevents the penetration of vapors.

Fastening the foil vapor barrier

Waterproofing can be done with a simple polyethylene film.

But polyethylene is suitable only in heated houses with slate or metal roofing.

When insulating the ceiling of a cold roof, a film with microperforation and a three-layer reinforced coating is needed. The reinforcing layer will not allow the film to sag and will provide a ventilation gap.

cold roof ceiling insulation

Thus, having studied the properties of insulating materials and the features of their use, we can conclude that waterproofing and thermal insulation of the cold ceiling of the house on our own is a completely feasible task.

Proper insulation of the attic and attic ceiling

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How to insulate the ceiling and attic floor

• The better to insulate the ceiling
• Insulation of concrete floors
• Conclusion

In a heated private house, a large amount of heat will escape through the roof, if measures are not taken and the ceiling of the upper floor is not properly insulated. The physics of the process is known: heated and lighter air is displaced into the upper zone of the room, bordering the cold attic, where it gives off heat to the uninsulated floor. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to arrange a barrier in the form of a layer of thermal insulation on the path of the heat flow. This material will just discuss how to properly insulate the ceiling or attic floor with your own hands and the better to isolate this horizontal structure.

The better to insulate the ceiling

When choosing insulation for a ceiling located under a cold roof, regulatory fire requirements should be taken into account. The fact is that for all types of floors these requirements are quite stringent, which makes it impossible to use combustible materials for thermal insulation. In short and in simple words, the insulation layer should not reduce the standard fire resistance of the structure. That is, combustible materials cannot be used to insulate ceilings under a cold attic, hemmed to wooden beams, as well as interfloor wooden floors and the same ceilings above the basement.

For reference. Wooden floor beams and other supporting structures, in accordance with the requirements of regulatory documents, must be impregnated with a special fire-fighting compound, and the gaps between them must be filled with non-combustible materials.

Accordingly, the answer to the frequently asked question, is it possible to insulate the ceiling with foam from the inside along wooden beams, is quite clear - it is impossible. This also applies to the use of extruded polystyrene foam and foam. It turns out that the list of heaters suitable for thermal insulation of wooden structures is quite limited:

• non-combustible basalt (stone) wool, sold in slabs and rolls;
• bulk fire-resistant heaters - expanded clay, perlite;
• traditional folk material - sawdust mixed with clay.

Note. Not bad resists open fire and a coating of polyurethane foam applied by spraying. But the resistance time is limited, with prolonged exposure, the insulation changes its structure and collapses.

Mineral wool, made on the basis of fiberglass, is not suitable, as it can withstand temperatures not exceeding 200 ° C. The same applies to the actively advertised ecowool. Although it does not burn, ecowool cannot serve as both a ceiling insulation and a fire barrier. Judging by the degree of popularity among homeowners, the best option for insulation in this case is basalt mineral wool. Other listed materials in comparison with it have too high thermal conductivity.

Of course, you can violate fire safety requirements and insulate your private house with anything, no sanctions are provided for this. But it should be remembered that as a result of such actions, the risk of a rapid collapse of the ceilings during a fire increases, which leads to very negative consequences.

Another thing is the insulation of concrete floors, which themselves have a high degree of fire resistance. Here it is possible to use any polymeric heaters - polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and foam plastic. At the same time, it is strongly recommended to insulate the ceiling not from the inside, but from the outside, such a solution will be the most correct in all respects.

Wood floor insulation

As a rule, the ceiling under a cold roof is insulated from the side of the attic. To do this, the first step is to hem the ceilings from below, so that mineral wool or expanded clay can be safely laid between the beams. The filing will serve as a support for it, which means it must be designed for the appropriate load. This is especially true of expanded clay or clay with sawdust, whose weight is quite significant.

The second important stage is the laying of a vapor barrier layer. It is well known that mineral wool absorbs moisture well, so do-it-yourself attic floor insulation should include a protective film layer and an air gap for ventilation. Due to this, water vapor from the living quarters will not get inside the insulation, and those that condense on the vapor barrier will disappear through the air gap. The general scheme of laying the heat-insulating layer on the ceiling under the roof is shown in the figure:

Film sheets should be laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm, after which the joint is carefully glued with construction tape. The organization of the air opening is carried out by arranging an internal crate made of bars up to 50 mm wide, to which the finishing coating of the ceilings is nailed. From the side of the roof, the insulation is covered with a diffusion membrane, which protects against wind and water drops, but allows steam to pass through.

Advice. Vapor barrier can be equipped using thin foil insulation - isolon or penofol. Then the canvases are laid end-to-end, and the seams are sealed with a special aluminum tape.

Moisture that is formed in the thickness of the material due to the occurrence of the dew point will be removed by ventilation from the attic, so that the thermal insulation will work correctly and for a long time. It should be noted that often the height of the beams is not enough to lay a heater of the calculated thickness between them. That is why the diagram below with suspended ceilings shows the laying of mineral wool in 2 layers: one between the beams, the other on top of them. Expanded clay is simply poured into the openings on top of the vapor barrier.

Note. In the same way, the attic ceiling is insulated, that is, its horizontal part. The composition of the heat-insulating "pie" is the same as for the ceiling, the thickness of the insulation is the same as on the walls of the attic.

Installation of ceiling insulation can also be done in the reverse order - from below, from the side of the room. There is not much difference, only the work is not so convenient to perform, and even the vapor barrier must be done with a release on the walls of 15-20 cm, otherwise moisture can penetrate along the edges of the “pie”. This is especially true in wet areas such as bathrooms. More on this topic is described in the video:

As for the insulation of interfloor wooden floors, it often does not make sense to perform it. It appears only if you plan to isolate the second floor from the first and heat them separately in order to save money.

In such a situation, the insulation between floors will have to be protected from vapors on both sides, as shown in the diagram:

Insulation of concrete floors

It is best to insulate the concrete ceiling of the upper floor from the outside, but it is convenient to do this during the construction process. After all, on top of the insulation it is necessary to lay a roofing covering that protects the house from precipitation. The sequence of work is as follows:

• cleaning and leveling the concrete surface;
• organization of inclined surfaces for water drainage using a monolithic screed;
• laying waterproofing with a release at the edges;
• laying insulation in 1 or 2 layers;
• installation of a cement-sand screed up to 5 cm thick;
• spreading and sealing roofing.

The "pie" of the correct insulation of the concrete ceiling from the outside is shown in the diagram:

If the roofing is already available, then it is not advisable to open it to organize thermal insulation; instead, you can insulate the ceiling from the inside. The easiest way for this purpose is to take expanded polystyrene or penoplex, which do not have to be protected from moisture. Material slabs are attached to the concrete surface in 2 ways:

• first, wooden logs are installed, a heater is inserted between them, and the gaps are sealed with foam;
• foam boards are attached directly to the ceiling by means of dowels in the form of umbrellas.

Advice. When installing a log or fastening polystyrene foam, be careful when drilling holes so that the dowel does not fall into the void.

When there are lags, it is convenient to mount any topcoat. At the same time, the installation of insulation on dowels is practiced when installing stretch ceilings. When mineral wool is used as an insulator, then the organization of a vapor barrier and an air gap is mandatory, so here you can’t do without a log and a counter-lattice.

The concrete ceiling above the unheated basement also needs to be insulated, since in this situation a lot of heat will escape through the floors of the first floor. There are 2 options here: insulate the basement ceiling or the floors on the ground floor.

The choice often falls on the second option, since it is more convenient to isolate the floors of the first floor. There are also two ways of thermal insulation: on the logs and under the screed, both of them are reflected in the diagrams:

Conclusion

The issue of insulation of ceilings and attic floors is not easy and requires a thorough approach. Particular attention should be paid to the installation of hydro and vapor barrier, since the service life of the insulation depends on the tightness of these layers. Also, do not save on its thickness, otherwise you will spend a lot of time and effort, and the result will remain far from expected.