Any household plot it is quite difficult to imagine without such a type of building as a cellar. It greatly aids in the storage of many foodstuffs by providing optimum temperature and humidity.
At the same time, not everyone knows how to properly build a cellar on the site so that it correctly performs all the functions that are assigned to it. It is not very difficult to build this structure, given all aspects and features of this process.
In order to dig a detached cellar, on a plot or in a garden, it is best to use environmentally friendly, natural materials. They will not be toxic to the products stored in the facility.
If this is not terrible for preservation, then this factor can serve very unfavorably for vegetables and fruits in open boxes. They are able to absorb certain odors, as well as some substances. Experts also do not recommend using metal when building a cellar. It can serve as a conductor of cold, which violates the optimal temperature for storing food in the winter season.
In order to build a cellar with your own hands, you will need the following materials:
- To build walls, you will need either brick or foam blocks. If possible, you can use concrete plates.
- The floor is filled with cement mortar. For neg, the cement itself, sand, water, crushed stone and reinforcement are used directly.
- Either ready-made concrete slabs are used as the basis for floors, or they are poured. For it, you will need the appropriate wooden formwork, reinforcement and concrete itself.
- As you can use, geomembrane, and roofing material attached to the walls with mastic.
- For the roof, you will need both the appropriate wood (bars and boards) and roofing material.
- inside the cellar can be equipped with two plastic pipes.
- For openings in the form of a hatch and a door, they are most often used different types lumber, or buy finished products.
- As interior decoration walls, experts recommend using either plaster mixes, or else wooden planks. They can sheathe both the walls themselves and the ceiling.
The internal structure of the cellar is equipped with the appropriate elements - shelves, racks, drawers, etc. For their manufacture, wood is most often used. In certain cases, the structure is made of metal, after which it is sheathed with boards.
It is worth being prepared for the fact that all wooden elements will need to be handled accordingly. For this, various antiseptics are used that protect the material from various microorganisms, mold, decay, etc.
Pit preparation and foundation pouring
The bottom of the pit itself should be compacted and dotted with sand and gravel. This is necessary so that the structure itself does not sag. The drainage pad should be about 30 centimeters thick. Sand occupies 20 centimeters, while gravel must be laid on top of it. This material should be tamped very hard on top so that it penetrates deep inside. (About drainage on the site)
Reinforcement should be laid on top of the sand and gravel layer. It is best to use rods with a diameter of about 8 millimeters. They can be connected to each other, both with wire, and connected using welding equipment. From above, the resulting layer must be poured with concrete. To prepare it, it is not necessary to use any special formula - sand and cement should be diluted in a ratio of 3 to 1. This part of the cellar should harden for about one week, after which you can start laying the walls.
Near the foundation, you can dig a few tens of centimeters across the structure. This space will make it easier to build a cellar. After completion of work, it should be filled with soil.
Waterproofing device
In fact, just digging a cellar is not enough, as other types of work must also be paid attention to. First of all, it concerns waterproofing and foundation. As for the isolation from water that is in the ground or can penetrate into it, special materials are used for this, which do not allow the liquid to come into contact with both the floor and the walls of the structure.
The cheapest and most common waterproofing material that is used to equip the cellar is rolled roofing material. Stick it in several layers going to opposite sides from each other. For good adhesion, a material such as tar is used. If this is done qualitatively, the underground part of the cellar (or rather, its floor) will be well protected from water leakage.
Instead of roofing material, you can use a modern material for waterproofing - a geomembrane
Since the walls are also exposed to liquids, they, like the bottom of the cellar, should be covered with waterproofing. But it is worth starting this work after the erection of the walls. It is worth remembering that the roofing material is necessary in this case to bend a little on them. Walls are covered from above due to the fact that these places are quite vulnerable, often being directly at ground level.
cellar wall construction
How to make walls correctly, many people, when building cellars, do not know. This is due to the fact that a wide variety of materials are used for this part of the structure, which implies certain differences in the implementation of the entire process. Most often, either concrete, or brick, or foam blocks are used for walls.
For those who are interested in the question of how to build a concrete cellar, there is a fairly simple answer. First of all, it is worth building a reinforcing cage. For it, two vertical rows of 10 mm reinforcement are used, interconnected by wire in a three-dimensional structure. On both sides around it, it is necessary to build a wooden formwork. 
When it is created, you can start pouring this limited volume with pre-prepared concrete. In order to avoid any voids in it, you need to use a special construction vibrator.
It is worth noting how far the elements of the wooden formwork of the walls should be from each other. A width of 10 centimeters is sufficient. Such a layer allows you to create a good microclimate in the food storage room itself.
Concrete walls should take about 2-3 weeks to gain strength. Only after that you can remove the wooden formwork and proceed to further work.
If a cellar near a private house is built using bricks, then cement of the M200 brand should be purchased for the solution. It is best to equip two layers of walls. They only need to use solid brick. When the walls are built, do not forget about the waterproofing layer.
To do this, you can use a special substance that is coated outer side from the foundation to the very top. Ruberoid should be glued on top of it. Better to do just that, spending more money than later, in just a couple of years, to redo the entire structure due to leaks, the formation of mold and fungus.
The outer side of the walls can be additionally lined with clay. It is a rather dense material that can retain liquid. Only 10 cm layer protects the cellar well from negative impact ground water.
Arrangement of the entrance
There are quite a few different entrances that can be used for a cellar. Most simple option is an ordinary hatch with a manhole. Most often, they resort to this method of organizing an entrance in cases where there is a limited space, or as a result of the fact that the depth of the structure is very large.
It is worth noting that from the hatch cover to the ceiling directly interior must be at least 1 meter. Often, two types of coverings are equipped: one is external, the second is internal between the manhole and the cellar. To descend to the basement, use the usual stairs for basements.
More complete is the entrance, equipped wide door coming out to the surface. Behind it is a gentle staircase that allows you to gradually descend into the underground storage. Such an entrance to the cellar from the street can be appropriately ennobled, making it quite attractive and interesting.
It is worth remembering that the door must also be lined with waterproofing material from the inside. It is best if there is a vestibule behind it - a room into which air can enter outdoor temperature, without getting directly into the room where the products are stored. In this case, the underground part of the structure will be quite large, but more convenient and functional. In addition, in this case, you can make a full-fledged staircase of concrete or bricks with an inclination angle of about 45 degrees.
Roof installation
Before you make a cellar in a private house or on the street, you should think about how all its elements will look like. First of all, this concerns those parts of the structure that will be visible to all people, that is, the exterior itself. You can cover the cellar in various ways, each of which has advantages and disadvantages. It can have the form of a single-pitched or double-pitched roof. From above, it can be covered with turf or soil, thereby additionally creating thermal insulation for the room.
To equip the roof for the foundation is quite easy. Initially, the beams should be laid, after which the floor itself in the form of boards should come directly to them. You have to put it on top truss system. It needs to be covered with a roof. For it, a waterproof material should be used. In this case, the cellar will look like a small house. If you cover it with natural elements (soil, stones, landscape decorations), then it can dissolve quite easily in this setting. 
Can be done without a visible roof. For this, a slab is used. It should be laid in such a way that the flat side is at the bottom. It must be covered with plaster, and then whitewashed with lime. From above, the structure is closed with roofing material. A straw-clay mixture is laid on top of it, on which the soil is poured along with the turf. It is best if you cover everything with grass on top.
Do not forget that in the roof it is worth providing a place for two pipes. Their diameter should be 100 millimeters. One hole should go outside directly from the cellar ceiling itself. Another pipe should be placed so that it does not reach the floor by 30 centimeters.
An excavated cellar, separate from the building, is not only functional room but also quite stylish and beautiful element yard, which should not only be properly equipped, but also ennobled quite well.
Video: Basic principles of laying a cellar
Conclusion
Before you make a cellar on the street (in a private house), you need to carefully prepare. This includes buying necessary materials, creation of an appropriate plan, approximate scheduling of work. In this case, you can be ready for all the nuances of the construction itself, carrying it out as quickly and correctly as possible.
Built cellar in full compliance with all recommendations experienced craftsmen, will be long time function properly, extending the shelf life of food in the garden.
A cellar is a place where you can store almost any food. The main advantage of this building, when compared with a conventional pantry, is obvious - in it you can keep salted or fresh vegetables and fruits, and a variety of preservation. All year round in the cellar, the temperature does not exceed 7 ° C, and this is almost the temperature of the refrigerator.
There are several types of cellars. The simplest is earthen. You can also build a cellar in the garage. There are also such cellars as ground, with a cellar, a blocked cellar, etc.
For this you will need: water, clay and chopped straw. Knead the solution until a plastic and viscous state.
Apply the solution in several layers, each time waiting for the complete drying of the previous layer. After that, you can sheathe the walls with a slab board.
You can also lay out the walls of the old brick, or simply fill them with concrete.
For better storage vegetables and various products contributes to the earthen floor of the cellar. The base of the pit is a well-compacted rubble, filled with bitumen on top. Next up is the adobe floor. A good option is a cement screed. 
For a more convenient cellar, you will have to build steps. Initially, it is necessary to dig the future staircase, and in place of the steps, thoroughly tamp the ground. Next, you need to make plywood formwork on the side surfaces of the steps above horizontal plane. Next, fill cement mortar step plates. The steps must be lined with bricks, and the treads of the slabs must be laid out of stone.
Roof and cellar door construction
DIY construction the cellar implies the protection of its upper part. You can build a standard one above the cellar, larger than the cellar itself by 50 cm on each side.
Such measures will help prevent water from flowing into the cellar during rain. Be sure to insulate the door with several layers of foam rubber, and then cover it with dermantine on top.
This is quite an important process. All waterproofing materials can be divided into two types: non-pressure and anti-pressure. The second type of materials is used if groundwater reaches the floor level from the side of water pressure. The first type of materials is used if the groundwater level does not reach the floor.
For better protection from water, use a drainage layer during construction., as a rule, are connected to a special well located next to the cellar. Drainage is alternated in layers with soil, and when laying the layers, it must be rammed.
To reduce groundwater, build - i.e. a special container with a certain slope for water drainage.
If the cellar is protected from groundwater, then waterproofing can be done with heated bitumen. Before covering the walls with bitumen, be sure to treat them with cement mortar. Bitumen waterproofing is usually applied in two layers. During the drying of the bitumen, the walls are usually sprinkled with sand.
Proper storage is the key to successful food storage. In the cellar, the hood can be of two types.
The first option is natural ventilation. It is carried out using two pipes: exhaust and supply. This hood is based on the temperature difference between the room and the street, because of this, continuous air circulation occurs.
Typically, the exhaust pipe is mounted near the ceiling, and its end is half a meter higher than the level of the cellar. That. heated air comes out. And at the bottom of the cellar, a supply pipe is installed 10 cm above the floor line. She needs to be protected metal mesh from pests and insects.
The second type of ventilation is forced. It is created using special fans. The device is the same as in the first case. This ventilation needed in summer period, because there is no air exchange due to the increase in outside temperature.
Observing all technological conditions, you will build a high-quality and reliable cellar that will delight you for decades.
Cellars and undergrounds are best suited for storing crops. But the underground can not be made in every house, but you can make a cellar even in a site with a high level of groundwater. It is important to know where and how.
Choosing a place for the cellar
The optimal place for a cellar is on a natural or man-made hill. If there are no drops on the site, you need to find the “driest” site with a low groundwater location. You can determine by the vegetation - where it is the smallest, there is water far away.
Ideally, if you have a geological study of the site (ordered when planning a house). There, with sufficient accuracy, the occurrence of aquifers is indicated. If there is no such study, approximate level groundwater can be determined by the depth at which the water mirror is located in the wells.
Most the best place where you can make a cellar - on a natural hill
Another option is to drill a well at a depth of about 2.5 meters in the proposed location. If there is no water in it, you can make a cellar, buried 2 meters or a little more. It is necessary to drill either in the spring, after the snow melts, or in the autumn after heavy rains. At this time, the highest level of groundwater and surprises in the form of flooding, then you will not have to be afraid.
Based on the results of the research, they are determined with the type of cellar:
- If the groundwater level is below 1.5 meters from the surface, a deep cellar can be made.
- If the water is at the level of 80 cm, you can make it semi-submerged.
- The ground cellar is rather a vegetable store. It requires a lot of work and is rarely done in the private sector.
There is another type of cellar - an underground, which is arranged under the house, if the house has a sufficiently high base (1.5 meters and above). Then they dig a small pit about 2 * 2 meters in size, deepening no more than a meter. At the bottom, with entry to the walls of the pit, waterproofing is laid, gravel (10-15 cm) is poured, and a plank floor is laid. If the water is already close, it is better to pour a concrete slab using standard technology.
The walls are laid out with bricks or a log house is made of impregnated timber, they are well insulated from the outside. The cover of the cellar under the house is made below the floor level, also insulated. A slightly larger cover is arranged in the floor. This completed the construction of the subfloor. This type of cellar makes sense only in a house of permanent residence - it will always have a positive temperature. In houses of seasonal residence without heating in winter, it will freeze, so it makes no sense to cost such a cellar in the country.
materials
The choice of material for the cellar also depends on the level of groundwater. In a dry place, you can build with whatever you want - any material suitable for this purpose: impregnated wood, brick, concrete, building blocks.
If the water is close to the surface, it is necessary that the material is not afraid of moisture, has a low hygroscopicity (preferably close to zero) or has the ability to significantly reduce it. But these requirements are met, in general, only concrete and metal. Concrete is preferable - it is definitely not afraid of getting wet, it does not absorb water very much, although it can conduct it through capillaries. Concrete is good for what it is various ways, allowing to make it practically impervious to water in any form:
- Additives are additives that give concrete certain properties. Including there are additives that make it practically non-conductive and non-absorbent.
- Hygroscopicity can be reduced by vibrating concrete during laying (there are special vibrators for concrete). Due to the compaction of the structure, its density becomes much higher, hygroscopicity decreases.
- Impregnation treatment deep penetration. For concrete, cement-based compositions are used, which include polymers. Polymers block the capillaries through which water seeps through. Double treatment allows 6-8 cuts to reduce the amount of moisture seeping through the concrete.
- Rubber paint. It is used for swimming pools, but in extreme cases it can help keep moisture out of the cellar.
All these tools in a complex, or one or two to choose from, will help make the cellar dry, even in areas with a high level of groundwater.
You can also build a cellar on high groundwater from metal. brew right size sealed box, spacers are welded to the bottom and walls. This metal box is treated from the outside with an anti-corrosion compound (several times) and buried in the ground. If the seams are done well, water will not seep through, but there is another problem - with a lot of water, this box can be pushed to the surface. To prevent this from happening, spacers are welded, but they help only up to a certain pressure created by water. It may well happen that such a cellar “floats up”.
The metal cellar will not leak, but it can “float”
When building a cellar with a high level of groundwater, it is still acceptable ceramic brick. But over time, it crumbles from water, although there is an opportunity to significantly reduce its hygroscopicity - process it several times with the same deep penetration impregnation. And yet the brick high water- only an extreme option.
How to make a concrete cellar with mobile formwork
The standard technology for building a concrete cellar has been described many times. She is not very good, because it is necessary a large number of material for the formwork device, and digging a pit is not happy - it must be much larger than the dimensions of the cellar in order to be able to install this formwork. There is a more rational technology - with a concrete knife and phased pouring of the walls. This tactic is used in the construction of wells, but can be used to build a cellar.
Pour the knife
It all starts with filling the knife. His profile is shown in the picture. In the figure, it is drawn round - under the well, but it is better to make the cellar rectangular. This concrete knife is poured right on the spot. So, we dig a small pit around the perimeter of the future cellar. In cross section, the pit should be triangular, with a bevel directed inside the perimeter (as in the photo above).
We knit a reinforcement frame of the same shape. AT this case was used fiberglass reinforcement It's cheaper and easier to deliver. Steel will be used for the ceiling and floor.
When making the frame, we leave the reinforcement outlets 15-20 cm long, directed upwards - the next reinforcement belt will be tied to them. The frame is installed in a finished pit, covered with a film. This is necessary so that the walls of the knife are smooth and pass the ground well.
We make concrete in a concrete mixer - the small volumes required for one pour do not allow ordering at the factory. We make concrete grade M 250 (1 part of M 500 cement requires 1.9 parts of sand and 3.1 parts of crushed stone, water - 0.75). To increase the strength, polypropylene fiber is added, and Penetron-Admix (an additive for greater strength) is dissolved in water.
Concrete is made of low flow, as it will be processed by a vibrator. The sides were filled in stages, immediately processing with a submersible vibrator.
Making walls
Next, the concrete was covered with a film, periodically moistened. While he was setting, they were collecting formwork. The edged board 40 * 150 * 6000 mm was passed by a planer, the formwork panels of four boards were knocked down. In height, they turned out to be about 80 cm. When assembling, the boards were fitted tightly so that the mortar would flow out less.
We waited until the concrete gained its design strength (more than a month has passed since the pouring). To make a cellar using this technology, the knife must be durable. The frame of the next row was tied to the reinforcement outlets left earlier. At the same time, we also leave issues of the order of 15-20 cm for the "binding" of the next belt.
To increase the rigidity of the frame, the corners are reinforced with a metal bar bent in the form of the letter “L” (side length 40 cm).
We put formwork panels. So that they do not fall apart when pouring concrete, they are fastened inside and outside with corners. Inside, 4 corners are placed (on self-tapping screws), outside - 2 each. The distance between the two shields is fixed with the help of studs (they are visible in the photo below).
So that the walls of the cellar were smooth and water did not leave the concrete, the inner surface of the formwork was sheathed with polyethylene. The surface of the first standing concrete must be cleaned of dust that has accumulated. We do it with a washer. high pressure(available on the farm). Next, we install the formwork, pour concrete, process it with a vibrator.
We cover the poured concrete with polyethylene, periodically water it. Formwork can be removed after two or three days. After a few more days, you can begin to lower the walls. To do this, we take out the soil inside the perimeter. We dig evenly so that the walls sit without distortions.
For the first time, the walls sagged by about 60 cm. This is the height of the wall pour (about 20 cm of the formwork overlaps the previous fill.
Further, according to the “knurled” technology - we tie the reinforcement, reinforce the corners, put the formwork. Only this time, in order to make it more convenient to place the shields, inside, about 15 cm below the edge, pieces of boards are stuffed. They rest on the inner shield.
Then the outer shields are installed. They "hang" on the lower studs threaded through both shields. The top studs fix the required wall width. Shields are tightened in the corners with metal corners.
Studs on which the shield "hangs"
Next - pouring, vibrating, covering, waiting. After a week and a half, you can continue to deepen. We do this until the walls are of the design height. In this case, it took 4 fills of 60 cm each. The total height turned out to be 2.4 m. They buried it so that the upper cut was slightly below the ground level.
Those bottles that are put on the reinforcement are necessary so that the film covering the concrete does not tear. The idea turned out to be very useful.
On the earthen floor was spread out. It will compensate for uneven loads. It also serves as a "rug - then a lot of work on your knees.
Stopper
Connected frame for the "stopper" of the knife
To install it, we drill holes in the knife, into which we drive reinforcing bars. We tie the connected frame to them, leaving the outlets of the reinforcement for connection with the reinforcement of the floor.
We put the formwork, fill the “stopper” with concrete.
Former knife turned into an "anchor"
Concrete cellar floor
After the concrete has set, we disassemble the formwork, it's time to make the floor. First, the base is made. Sand was poured onto the geotextile (about 10 cm), leveled with a shovel, then with a rake, then with a roller. Two buckets of cement were scattered over the entire surface, mixed with a rake with a top layer of sand, and again compacted with a roller. Spilled from a watering can with water with a dissolved Penetron-Admix additive, tamped manual tamper. After tamping, sand is not crushed underfoot.
This operation was repeated two more times. Upper layer turns out flush with the edge of the stopper. Let the preparation under the stove dry. After drying, the crust is very durable.
The base was washed and dried. They laid the finished stack of 6 mm wire in 10 mm increments. The grid was connected with the releases of the reinforcement from the knife. She was put on pieces of boards, which were removed as they were poured.
From two strings stretched from corner to corner, beacons were made for pouring concrete - overall height plates 10 cm.
Overlapping and ventilation
We disassemble one formwork shield, nail the docks, stepping back from the upper edge of the wall 40 mm - this is exactly the thickness of the boards. In one corner we install a meter pipe, fasten it with one clamp, in the opposite we put a three-meter pipe on three clamps.
Three formwork panels fit perfectly on the attached boards. We disassemble the rest, cut it so that there is a hatch for the entrance. The gaps between the boards are closed mounting foam, after polymerization, the excess is cut flush with the boards.
Below, from the cellar, spacers are installed. At the top they are fixed with corners, at the bottom, trimmings are laid under the boards so as not to push through the not fully matured concrete.
From above, the boards and the wall are washed with a high pressure washer and dried. Covered with a layer of roofing material, which was attached to the boards with staples made of construction stapler. The entrance to the cellar is 1*1 meter in size, its edges are limited by formwork boards.
Next, formwork is installed around the perimeter. We fasten the boards, tighten in the corners long nails. Then we wrap it with roofing felt, install spacers that rest on driven stakes. Powerful struts are needed - the weight will press a lot.
We also make three reinforcing beams - two lower bars 16 mm, two upper 14 mm, they are interconnected by an 8 mm bar. Two beams were tied, ready to be laid in place, connecting them with the releases of reinforcement from the walls. The third was assembled on the spot - its rods pass through the finished beams.
After 12 mm reinforcement, we knit a mesh with a step of 20 cm. We tie the bars to the outlets from the wall. Some difficulties arose while traversing ventilation pipes. I had to bend the armature. The bars that ended near the entrance were bent 15-20 cm up. The reinforcing cage for the entrance will then be attached to them.
In order to conduct electricity to the cellar, two holes were drilled, the wires in the corrugated pipe were passed through them. Next, they filled everything with concrete.
A few days later, when he seized, a formwork was installed over the entrance. First, the inner box, then the reinforcement frame, then the outer one. Also filled with concrete.
After the concrete gained design strength (28 days from pouring), the wall half a meter down and the floor slab were sheathed with insulation - EPS (extruded polystyrene foam). He was "planted" on bituminous mastic - along with waterproofing.
The props inside are left for two months. Then almost everything was removed, leaving only a couple, just in case. The first crop appeared in the cellar.
Now you know how to make a concrete cellar with a phased pouring of the walls. It took a lot of time, but the costs turned out to be stretched over time.
Cellar in a country house made of bricks (under)
For the construction of a brick cellar, our country cottage area 100% suitable - groundwater is below 3 meters, the soils are dense, non-porous, so they dug a pit 2.5 meters deep. The dimensions of the cellar are 2.2 * 3.5 m, the pit, respectively, is slightly larger. The entrance to the cellar will be from viewing hole, and a utility block will be installed over the entire “complex” ( metal container). To save a used brick is taken.
The floor was done as the old people advised: rubble was poured into the bottom in layers and broken brick, all this was sprinkled with clay and rammed. They leveled the floor, pouring sand, it was also tamped down, after wetting it. Then they began to lay the walls in half a brick. The soil is non-porous, so there is no need to worry about the fact that the walls will be squeezed out.
The gap remaining between the brick and the wall of the pit was filled with clay, which was also well rammed - protection from the top water, which will look for where to leak.
The walls were driven out a little above ground level, they were laid edged board. They laid it tightly - this will be the formwork for the cellar floor slab. From below, the boards were supported with spacers, and a film was laid on top - so that the concrete would not seep into the existing cracks. We put up the sides of the boards, limiting the future slab. The boards in the corners were fastened with corner ties.
In the future ceiling, in opposite corners of the cellar, two plastic pipes. It - ventilation system. The slab will be insulated - 5 cm of EPS (extruded polystyrene foam) will be laid.
On top of the insulation made of reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm, a mesh is connected with a step of 20 cm. The mesh rests on pieces of brick. It is raised above the EPS by 4 cm, the total thickness of the plate is about 10 cm.
Concrete was ordered at the factory - there is an entrance to the dacha. When poured, they bayoneted well.
While the concrete is "ripening", the walls of the inspection pit and the steps into it are laid out.
After removing the formwork, it will be possible to put a metal hozblok on top.
The basement under the house is not the best place for long-term storage of blanks. The temperature there is elevated, and closer to spring, the vegetables in it will flake. Therefore, sooner or later, novice homeowners have a reasonable question: “How to make a freestanding cellar with your own hands?”
Types of cellars
In fact, the cellar is a fairly deep hole in the ground with a reinforced ceiling and walls.
The degree of deepening of such a storage can be different:
- deep buried: are completely underground to the entire height of the cellar; it is not difficult to maintain a comfortable temperature for vegetables and preservation at any time in such rooms - a layer of soil reliably protects them from heat and cold;
- riding (ground) cellars: they can be erected on any type of site, but most often such structures are used when groundwater is located close to each other, when it is not possible to deepen the cellar too much; to protect such structures from heat and cold, they are thermally insulated by backfilling with soil (bunding);
- semi-embedded: something between a top and deep storage; its lower part is buried in the soil, and the upper one is located above the ground.
When choosing the type of cellar, it is necessary to focus on the depth of groundwater. They should not rise higher than 50-60 cm from the bottom of the cellar.
It is not easy to determine the level of groundwater on your own, without the help of specialists. You can focus on neighboring areas. Go around the neighbors and ask them what types of cellars are used in this area. More accurate measurements can be made by drilling test wells. Before measuring the water level, the finished well should stand for 1-2 days.
According to the location, all underground storage facilities can be divided into 2 types:
1 Freestanding
2 Wall-mounted: in order to save free space, it is allowed to attach a cellar to the walls of sheds, garages and other outbuildings; cellars can also be located inside such premises; but in order to avoid excessive heating of the air, it is not recommended to attach a cellar to heated rooms.
Location selection
The safety of products and the durability of the building itself largely depend on the place chosen for construction.
Do not build a cellar on:
- in an open area lit by the sun - it is better to choose a place in the shade
- near large trees, which with their roots can damage the structure
For the building, the most elevated place is selected. In this case, the probability of flooding groundwater when they rise in the spring, it decreases. Plus, sewage rain or melt water will not accumulate on such a site.
The vegetable store is located on an elevated site.
To avoid the collapse of buildings, the cellar pit should be located no closer than 0.5 m from the foundation of buildings.
When building a vegetable store under an unheated room, you will not only save space on the site, but also ensure ease of use - you no longer have to clear the snow every time you go for food supplies.
The walls and the roof of the building will create additional protection from cold winds and scorching heat.
During construction ground cellar the exit is located on the shady side. If this is not possible, more thorough thermal insulation of the vestibule and front door will be required.
Construction of a deep cellar
The construction of any kind of underground storage should be carried out not in the spring, when groundwater rises too close to the surface, but towards the end of summer, in August. All work must be carried out in dry weather. When it rains, the pit must be covered with a film.
1 After choosing the location of the storage, they begin to dig a pit. The depth of a full-fledged cellar should be 2-2.5 m.
2 When preparing the pit, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the floor, as well as the height of the bedding (cushion) of crushed stone, which serves as protection against moisture. The thickness of such a layer is 25-30 cm.
3 The optimal size of a vegetable store is 8-12 square meters. m. For a small family, 4-5 square meters are enough. m. 0.5-1 m is added to the estimated length and width for equipping walls, waterproofing and arranging a clay castle.
4 Digging the pit is done manually - the excavator can damage the edges of the pit, and the thermal insulation of the storage will be broken. The earth is removed in layers, carefully leveling the edges.
5 With loose soil, it is better to make a pit with a slope (between the floor and the top, the difference in each direction should be 30-50 cm). In this case, the earth will crumble less.
6 In the corners, it is better to immediately hammer the supports from the channel. Floor beams will be laid on it in the future.
7 Part of the earth will be needed to fill the top of the cellar, so do not carry the soil too far.
8 After reaching the desired depth, the pit should stand for some time - you need to make sure that it will not be filled groundwater. If the water has slightly seeped into the pit, the places of its penetration are sealed with clay. With severe flooding, further construction, unfortunately, will be impossible.
He hopes that it will be possible to pump out water from the heated cellar annually in the spring, it is not worth it. You will only wash out the channels, constantly expanding them, and every year more and more water will come. If the excavated pit began to flood, it is better to fill it with earth and build a ground cellar.
Preparing a clay castle
The best floors in the cellar are adobe. Our ancestors also knew about the peculiarity of clay to retain moisture and not let it into the room.
Until today clay castle is one of the best options protection of the foundation even during the construction of residential buildings. By the way, leaks in the basements of buildings erected back in the 18th-19th centuries appear only after the laying of new modern communications and the destruction of adobe surfaces.
A clay castle is called a layer of clay 20-25 cm thick, laid along the contour of the building with the capture of the perimeter of the walls. The ideal option may be a combination of modern and traditional methods of protection.
First, rolled bituminous material (for example, roofing felt), glued with heated bitumen, is laid on the floors, they are poured with cement, and a clay castle is built on top.
Sufficient clay must first be soaked with water for several days. With an excess of sand, 10-20% lime is added to it. It is better to ram the clay in the formwork, filling it in small layers. To compact it, they trample it with their feet, turning it over with a shovel from time to time.
If a natural layer of clay is found at the bottom of the pit prepared for the cellar, it must be dug up with a shovel, capturing a section slightly wider than the intended walls. Then the floors are well washed with their feet, dug up again with a shovel and trampled down.
The walls are also insulated with a clay castle. For this, the space between the brick or concrete wall filled with carefully compacted clay. The thickness of such a lock is from 25 cm. It is more convenient to fill the space with clay as the walls are erected.
It is rammed with a piece of log or a special rammer in the form of a flat heavy base and a handle attached to it.
The usual sand bedding (pillow), which absorbs water well, is undesirable with adobe floors. It is better to replace it with a layer of rubble spilled with bitumen, which is covered with compacted clay on top.
Ventilation
Regardless of the type of cellar, it must be provided with ventilation. After all, in addition to moisture coming through the capillaries from the soil, vegetables and fruits stored indoors will release water during breathing.
There are two ventilation ducts in the cellar. The first exhaust is located above the ceiling itself with an output to the outside to a height of 10-15 cm (see photo). The end of the pipe, located outdoors, should rise above the ground by 0.5 m.
When above the cellar outbuildings(garage, barn, etc.) the exhaust duct is displayed on the roof of the building above the ridge. The pipe should rise above it by 0.5 m.
The second supply channel, which serves to supply fresh air, is equipped at a distance of 20-25 cm from the floor. Supply and exhaust pipes are mounted only on opposite walls. Their minimum length is 2.5-3 m. In order for the circulation of air masses to be uniform, the diameter of the channels must be the same.
They are laid already in the process of building walls. To do this, special holes are provided in masonry or concrete, into which pipes are inserted. From above, the channels are equipped with visors that protect against precipitation and penetration of rodents.
Too big like small diameter unwanted. In the first case, the room will be too cold, in the second - small size channel will not provide sufficient air exchange. Ideally, pipes should not have any bends. Any extensions and contractions are not allowed.
The size of the pipes is calculated depending on the dimensions of the room. For every 1 m2 of a cellar with a standard 2-meter depth, 26 cm2 of the channel section should be provided. If the storage depth is large, the diameter of the pipes is increased proportionally.
So that the water vapor coming out does not freeze, the channels are insulated at the exit points with soil. You can put on a casing from the outside, lined with heat-insulating material.
In large vegetable stores it is equipped forced ventilation. In the simplest systems, an electric fan of low power is installed in the hood for this. In more complex versions, it is installed both in the supply and exhaust channels.
AT winter period supply openings must be carefully closed with a cloth.
wall decoration
The most popular materials for their finishing are concrete, brick or concrete blocks. A formwork is prepared for pouring concrete, into which a reinforcing cage is built. All concrete works must be done within one day.
Otherwise, cold bridges will form at the joints, through which heat will escape. Such joints are also dangerous due to an excess of surface stress - the wall will turn out to be fragile.
When erecting brick walls laying is carried out in one brick. As a solution, a clay-sand or cement mixture is used. Outside, the walls are waterproofed with a double layer of bitumen and roofing material. The remaining space between the soil and the wall is covered with earth and compacted.
You can finish the walls with asbestos-cement slabs. Wood is undesirable. Its service life in a wet room will be short. If this is necessary, you can use the method that our ancestors used. Stakes are hammered into the corners of the walls, into which boards or slabs cut to length and dried for 1-2 years are laid.
Cellar ceiling
For the manufacture of floors, you can use concrete, wood, or a combination of both. Fixing a plank ceiling and laying insulation between the wooden beams is much more convenient and easier.
In this case:
1 Roofing material is laid over the walls.
2 Then, at a distance of 0.5 m from each other, logs or beams from a bar 150x100 mm, pre-treated with an antiseptic, are laid.
4 Wooden flooring is covered with a layer of waterproofing. As it can be used thick polyethylene. The film is spread in such a way that it is on the ground.
5 Now we lay the reinforcement in the form of a lattice, prepare the formwork and fill it with concrete 4-5 cm thick.
6 After the concrete has completely dried (it is necessary to wait at least a week), a double insulated, tightly fitted cover is attached to the hatch. A brick is laid out along its perimeter or concrete is poured.
7 When used as a floor, concrete slabs are laid on metal beams. The seams between the plates are sealed with cement mortar; then such an overlap is poured with bitumen. Roofing material is spread over it, and then a layer of insulation.
8 It is undesirable to use mineral wool as a heater - in a humid room over time it will clump and completely lose its thermal insulation properties. The best option- Styrofoam. The joints between its sheets are glued with sealant or adhesive tape.
9 If the underground storage is built free-standing, for protection from the sun in summer and snow in winter time above the cellar, it is better to provide a small building with a gable roof (cellar). Its door is equipped on the north side. Such a room can be used as a place to store gardening equipment.
For reliable thermal protection, the walls of the cellar are buried in the ground by 60-70 cm, and outside they make a blind area of clay and rubble.
Ceiling insulation
To provide optimum temperature In the room, the ceiling must be thermally insulated.
To do this, a lattice structure (crate) of timber is attached to the beams, between which foam plastic or any other is laid. thermal insulation material that does not absorb moisture.
To secure it, it is sheathed with boards or fiberboard, which are screwed to the bars.
1 Earthen backfill (bunding) must reliably retain cold in summer and heat in winter. Her optimum thickness- 35-45 cm.
2 Before bunding, the ceiling is covered with a 5-cm layer of clay-straw mixture. A thick film of polyethylene or roofing material is laid on top of it.
3 Earth, especially at the top of the floor, may settle over time. In order not to have to do additional bunding, a special fence must be provided to protect against soil sliding along the slopes.
4 To strengthen the embankment, it must be immediately covered with turf or sown with low-growing grass, for example, lawn. The intertwined roots of plants will not allow the earth to slide down.
Like any other building, a riding cellar can be made visually attractive by finishing it to your liking. The design of the site will only benefit from this.
The main stages of the construction of a cellar without wall embankment
Riding cellars with full bunding take up too much space on the site. Last years land owners found another solution. Instead of embankment, they began to build cellars with double walls.
Outwardly, they look like ordinary buildings. However, due to the massive walls laid with insulation, a comfortable temperature for vegetables is maintained in such a storehouse.
Earth with the help of bunding insulates only one or gable roof such a vegetable store. The thickness of the layer of soil to be filled up is up to half a meter. Just as in the previous case, a vestibule is provided in such a storehouse.
The door leading to the vault is carefully insulated.
The construction of the cellar consists not only in the construction of walls and ceilings, it is also well-arranged ventilation, high-quality waterproofing and interior layout. If it is wrong to make an entrance or save on usable area, it will be inconvenient to use the cellar, and it is too difficult to redo it. Therefore, before you build a cellar with your own hands, you should think through everything to the smallest detail.
The standard cellar is a rectangular room with a low ceiling. To enter, equip a hatch with a movable ladder or concrete steps. The first option is cheaper, but not very convenient, since it is quite difficult to descend into the cellar along the rungs, and even with a load. Concrete or brick steps are much more reliable, and making them is not at all difficult.
Already at the design stage, you should think about materials for ceilings. The width of the cellar directly depends on this. Some use ready-made concrete slabs as a floor, others themselves pour and reinforce them directly above the cellar, others use multi-layer floors made of timber, layers of waterproofing, boards and insulation.
The main parameters of the cellar
- The width of the pit should not exceed 4 m, taking into account the thickness of the masonry walls and the outer layer of waterproofing.
- The length of the cellar depends on the needs of the owner, usually it is 4 m.
- The height of the ceilings should be within 1.8-2 m. With good insulation, you don’t need to dig deep, two meters is enough to ensure that the room does not freeze in winter and does not heat up in summer.
In order to save a little when arranging the stairs, when digging a pit, you need to leave a section 1 m wide and remove the earth under a slope, forming steps with a shovel. But this option is only suitable for dense solid soil, otherwise, under the weight of the brick, the soil will begin to settle and the staircase will collapse.
Another important point- wall cladding. Most often they are made of brick or concrete, pouring mortar between the walls of the pit and the formwork. Both methods are quite within the power of a novice master, the main thing is to think through everything in advance. For brickwork need brick and mortar, for monolithic wall it is necessary to prepare material for formwork and spacers.
Video - Cellar. Theory and drawings
When all the details are thought out, the materials are prepared, you can get to work. On the selected site, a layer of turf is removed and markings are made using pegs, taking into account extra space for waterproofing.
In the process of work you will need:
- bayonet and pick-up shovel;
- roulette;
- building level;
- crushed stone;
- ruberoid;
- bituminous mastic;
- concrete solution M 100;
- tamper.
Step 1. Digging a pit
According to the markup, they begin to dig a hole. At the location of the future staircase, steps are immediately formed, choosing the soil under a slope. The steps should be 1.5 times wider than in the project, because the thickness of the riser is added to the tread. If the stairs to the cellar will be mounted separately, the pit is dug evenly around the entire perimeter. When the depth of the pit reaches 2 meters, the walls and base are leveled, lumps of soil are removed and the foundation is started.
Step 2. Filling the base
Small crushed stone is poured at the bottom of the pit with a layer of 3 cm, it is leveled and the base is compacted with a rammer. A solution is prepared: 3 parts of sand are taken for 4 parts of crushed stone and 1 part of M400 cement is added. The thickness of the concrete layer must be at least 6 cm.
Step 3. Waterproofing the floor
When the concrete dries, make markings for the walls of the cellar and lay 2 layers of roofing material on the floor, smearing them bituminous mastic. The edges of the roofing material should extend beyond the perimeter of the marking by 10 cm; strips of material overlap, shifting the seams of the upper layer by several centimeters.
Building brick walls
Step 1. Laying the first rows
To lay out the walls of the cellar, it is not necessary to have the skills of a bricklayer. All irregularities and masonry defects will be hidden under a layer of plaster. Brick can be taken second-hand, the main thing is that it be red burnt. white brick and cinder block is not recommended for these purposes.
The first row is laid out according to the markings on a sand-cement mortar. The second row goes in a checkerboard pattern with dressing of seams. Excess solution is immediately removed with a trowel, every three rows are checked building level. A space of about 50 cm wide is left between the masonry and the walls of the pit.
Step 2. Arranging the ventilation holes
No more than 5 rows can be laid out at a time, otherwise the solution will not withstand the load and the walls will “float”. It takes 8-10 hours to harden the masonry. In the 3rd or 4th row from the floor, a hole is made for the ventilation pipe between the bricks. The second hole should be left in the opposite corner of the cellar at a height of 1.6-1.7 m from the floor. The dimensions of the ventilation openings depend on the diameter of the pipe, usually these are square niches 25x25 cm.
Step 3. Installation of mortgages for fastening shelves
To fix the shelves in the masonry, they are embedded metal corners or profile pipes with thick walls. They must go out outer wall approximately 10-15 cm, and on the inside correspond to the width of the shelves. The distance between the corners is about 70 cm horizontally and about the same vertically. This method is quite convenient and reliable, besides it saves money on the manufacture of individual racks.
Step 4. External waterproofing
When the walls are fully laid out, ventilation pipes are inserted and fixed into the holes, brought up and temporarily fixed with wire to the top row. The walls outside are coated with liquid bitumen and roofing material is fixed. It is laid with an overlap of 10 cm, the joints are covered with bitumen and pressed firmly. After that, the space between the walls of the pit and the masonry is filled with clay and compacted every half a meter, not reaching the top about 40 cm.
concrete walls
Driven into the walls of the pit along the entire perimeter metal rods, leaving 15 cm outside. From boards, chipboard or plywood, knock down shields according to the size of the walls, upholster them with polyethylene and install them close to the reinforcement. Strengthen the formwork wooden beam and pour concrete. It is advisable to fill the entire wall at once, then the surface will be the most durable. After a day, the formwork is removed and the wall is allowed to dry well.
Floor installation
If for overlappings are used reinforced concrete slabs, the installation method is quite simple. The trench along the perimeter of the cellar is filled with stone, reinforced with a lattice of rods and poured with concrete. The slabs are laid after the concrete has hardened; they must completely cover the pit and foundation around the cellar. The joints between the plates are sealed with a thick mortar.
In the absence of plates, you can do monolithic ceiling differently, using bars, steel channel, beams or pipes.
Step 1. Laying beams
In the last two rows of masonry on opposite walls, holes are left for floor beams, the length of which should be 1 m longer than the width of the cellar. wooden beams with a section of 150x150 mm, they are impregnated with used engine oil and dried. Then they are wrapped with roofing material, which is fixed with stapler staples.
Pipes or channel do not need such processing. The prepared beams are laid on the walls, leaving an opening for entry, and then the trench and the edges of the beams are poured with concrete. The protruding edges of the ventilation pipes are covered so that the solution does not get inside.
Step 2. Cover device
From below, the beams are sheathed with boards 25 mm thick, and from above they are covered with roofing material. Expanded clay is poured between the beams or 2-3 layers are laid mineral wool, close all plastic wrap, then again with roofing material, coat the joints with mastic. Soil or clay is poured on top.
If the beams are metal, a chain-link mesh with small cells can be fixed between them, reinforcement and metal trimmings can be laid on it, a removable plywood or chipboard shield upholstered with film can be installed from below. The shield is supported with a bar 100x100 mm in several places so that the structure can withstand the weight concrete mortar. They fill everything with concrete and stand for several days, then remove the shield, remove the excess mortar that has leaked along the edges, and let the slab stand well.
Video - We build a cellar on our own
Internal work
The next step is the installation of the stairs. If a base of soil was left, a brick is laid on top, placing it on an edge vertically and flat on the tread. Side walls also lined with bricks, all gaps and joints are rubbed with mortar. You can replace the brick with a reinforcing cage and pour concrete steps, you can also install a light metal staircase.
Next, they put in order the walls, floor and ceiling. If the laying of the walls turned out to be even and neat, it is enough to cover the surface with two layers of lime. Uneven masonry is pre-plastered with a cement-sand mortar, and then treated with lime. Additional wall covering is not required, although various options finishes. The ceiling is checked for the absence of cracks and gaps, if necessary, the joints are sealed along the walls and also whitewashed.
Roofing material is covered on the floor cement screed 3-4 cm thick. In some cases, plank floors are mounted on top of the screed or linoleum is covered, but this is completely optional. At the end, shelves are fixed or racks are placed from boards treated with an antiseptic. Shelving should fit everything you need so that nothing stands on the floor. This will provide good preservation vegetables and make cleaning easier. It is impossible to block the space in front of the ventilation openings with racks and drawers, otherwise the air exchange will be disturbed and condensation will appear in the cellar.
The door to the cellar is made of durable boards 3 cm thick and additionally insulated from the inside. In cold regions, where frosts reach 30 degrees, it is recommended to install another door - at the bottom of the stairs. From above, the floors must also be carefully insulated with a layer of soil, sawdust, clay and other improvised materials. Ventilation pipes should be closed with special caps with a protective mesh against insects.
Video - How to build a cellar with your own hands
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