Insulation of the chimney in the ceiling of the bath. Chimney outlet through the roof. Where is the best place to run pipes?

Checked by expert: Pavel Vorobyov
Updated: 05/28/2018

must be arranged in accordance with all the rules, since the safety of the whole house depends on its reliability. Chimneys can be made of brick, metal or ceramic, therefore, when they pass through wooden floor different materials and technologies are used.

Chimney pipes are divided into different kinds according to their location - root, wall and mounted.

The main chimney pipes are located separately, but next to the stove, and are connected with her with the help of a sleeve. Such structures are convenient in that chimneys from several furnaces can be connected to them.
Wall chimneys are most often built into the main wall, but sometimes they are allowed along the wall.
Mounted chimney pipes are built on top of the furnace structure.

Accordingly, on which pipe is arranged in your furnace, its passage through the ceiling will also depend. Most often, a mounted pipe is arranged for furnaces.

Metal pipe

As mentioned above, the passage can be lined different materials, but the main condition remains the same - they must be heat-resistant.

From metal pipes to date the most popular steels are those made according to the “sandwich” type. They are made of two metal cylinders of larger and smaller diameters, inserted one into the other, and the distance between them is filled with non-combustible mineral wool, which plays the role of both a heater and an insulator.

The first thing to do is to purchase a ready-made or make your own through pipe (otherwise it can be called a box - because of the characteristic cubic shape). It is made of galvanized iron, based on the diameter of the pipe and the thickness of the wooden floor. The hole diameter should be slightly larger than the pipe diameter.

Further, the pipe must be properly prepared for installation, since thin metal will not be able to reliably isolate the heated chimney from combustible materials. For this, an insulating material made of basalt fiber with a foil surface is used. It is glued to the inner surfaces of the pipe and to the parts that will come into contact with the wooden floor.
The next step is to prepare the floor for the installation of the pipe. To do this, you need to take measurements from pipe with already glued insulating material. Then a place is marked and drawn on the ceiling, which must be cut out with a jigsaw. Fits into the cover mineral wool.

Next comes the installation of the prepared pipe.

A special metal panel(usually made of stainless steel), which has a circle cut out in the middle, which must match the diameter of the hole in the pipe. A chimney is passed through it.

The final stage of the passage of the pipe is the design of the chimney on the floor of the second floor or in the attic. This can be done with sheet metal or a special panel, also with cut out round hole for the pipe in the middle.
It is necessary to calculate the location of the pipe in such a way that the joint of its two parts is not located directly in the branch pipe, which is installed in the ceiling. The joint must be located either in the lower room or above the ceiling.

Another option for pipe insulation can be mineral wool, asbestos and heat-resistant drywall. The work process takes place in the same sequence as with a metal pipe, only using other materials.

In the ceiling is arranged square hole, which will have from the edges to the outer surface of the pipe 20-25 cm.
A high box is made of heat-resistant drywall, which will close the ceiling from the pipe.
Further, from the side of the ceiling, a steel sheet is fixed to the hole, with a round hole in the middle.
A chimney is installed through a hole in the sheet.
In the interfloor ceiling around the pipe, mineral wool is laid and fixed along the entire perimeter, for the entire thickness of the ceiling.
In some cases, expanded clay is poured on top of the mineral wool or instead of it.

brick pipes

More labor-intensive work awaits those who arrange a brick pipe, since they will not only have to make decorations in the ceiling, but also lay out the pipe itself in a special way.

Brick is purchased for chimneys High Quality, as the structure is tested by temperatures and soot deposits. When laying this section of the furnace, the seams must be completely filled with mortar, voids must not be allowed. From this, as well as from the arrangement of the passage through the ceiling, the fire safety of the house depends. In addition, voids eventually lead to the formation of through cracks, which significantly reduce traction.

Masonry located in the area where the pipe passes through the roof or interfloor overlap called otter and fluff. The section of the chimney that connects the cutting and the furnace is called the neck, and a valve is installed on it. The height of this section should be three or more rows.

fluff

Fluff is called the expansion of the chimney on the way to the ceiling, interfloor and attic. It provides essential protection of the floors from the heat coming from the stove itself and the chimney.

This element of the furnace structure must be at least one brick thick and insulated with asbestos sheet or building felt, which is impregnated with clay mortar.

When erecting a stove and arranging fluff, you should know that any brick structure necessarily shrinks. Therefore, after laying the furnace, it is necessary to give it time to shrink, and only after that proceed with the fluff device. If the furnace has given a sufficiently large shrinkage, then the fluff should be placed with a small margin from below.

Interfloor or attic floor, in the place where the pipe passes, it is filled with non-combustible materials, such as expanded clay, and a concrete plinth is placed on top.

Sometimes fluff is arranged from concrete slab or a box that is filled with expanded clay, sand or medium-sized pebbles.

In order to build a reinforced concrete fluff, a wooden formwork is made around the pipe, so that the poured structure has a thickness of one brick and a height of 5-7 centimeters. The formwork is attached to the chimney, and the reliability of fastening can be ensured with the help of fittings embedded in the masonry pipe or thick wire.
The formwork box is processed from the inside clay mortar so that the concrete does not stick to the wooden walls when it hardens. Inside, a reinforcing mesh is necessarily arranged, rigidly connected to the brickwork of the pipe. Reinforcement must be completely hidden by mortar during pouring.
The solution is prepared from cement, crushed stone or broken brick and sand, mix well and pour into the formwork.
When the formwork box is filled to the top, the concrete on the surface is leveled. The wooden box is removed after the concrete has completely solidified, and then the fluff on the finished slab is finished with bricks.

Perform raspunka and brickwork. This diagram shows a fluff in two sizes, having a channel of 13 × 13 and 13 × 26 centimeters. It is laid out in order:

For smaller the neck of the pipe is laid out of four bricks, the larger one - out of five.
In the second row, each side of the first option consists of four whole and four halves of bricks, and the second option of five whole, two halves and two quarters. At the same time, the bricks are shifted in outside from the center.
The next row of a smaller pipe consists of six whole and six ¾ parts of bricks, and a large pipe is laid out of eight whole and four halves. The bricks also move in outside one fourth of a brick.
The fourth row of fluffing of the smaller pipe consists of twelve bricks, and the large one of fourteen bricks with an outward shift.
The fifth and sixth, as well as the fourth row, are laid out of twelve and fourteen bricks, but without shifting to the side.
The seventh row is laid out, like the first of four and five bricks.
Next, the riser is laid in the same way as the seventh row, only each whole brick must overlap the seam between the bricks of the previous row.

Otter

The otter is the extended part of the head of the pipe that rises above the roof; it is arranged in the form of a small ledge. It is laid out to protect the chimney from precipitation and moisture, which can penetrate into the cracks at the junction of the roof and the pipe head.

An otter, as well as a fluff, can be arranged in two ways - laid out of brick during the construction of a pipe, or poured out of concrete.

When brickwork it is done in order as follows:

The first row of the otter is laid on the pipe riser coming out of the roof, and it consists of six and a half bricks (they are shown on the diagram on the left side of the riser). Bricks are shifted outward by ¼.
On the second row, the masonry is made exactly along the first row and also consists of six and a half bricks.
The third row is laid according to the pattern of the first row of the otter.
The fourth row is laid out without shifting the bricks, i.e. the size returns to the size of the riser.
On the fifth row, the riser is returned to the laying of five bricks, which are laid out along the channel opening.
The sixth row repeats the fifth.
The seventh row is again laid with a shift outward at a distance equal to ¼ brick.
The eighth row is placed according to the size of the seventh, following the scheme.
The ninth consists of seven bricks laid evenly along the outer row of the eighth.
The tenth row is laid without deviating from the scheme.

Video advice - simple installation of a chimney through a wooden floor

The work of laying out the chimney pipe is not as simple as it seems at first glance, and the importance of its high-quality implementation is very important. Therefore, it is better to entrust this operation experienced stove-maker who has folded more than one pipe in his practice and can easily cope with such work.

How to bring the pipe in the bath through the ceiling? This issue is faced by many owners of houses and baths equipped with stoves. When installing a chimney in a bath, important point is the passage of the pipe through the ceiling. If the building is made of wood, then the correct cutting of the chimney becomes paramount to ensure fire safety. Only careful observance of all established norms guarantees a long and trouble-free service of your property.

Exit the chimney through the ceiling

Before you make a pipe in the bath through the ceiling, we recommend that you read the following recommendations.

Safety regulations

When installing a chimney in a bathhouse through the ceiling, it is necessary to follow the recommendations Sanitary Norms and Regulations 41 - 01 - 2003. According to paragraph 6.6.22, it is necessary to provide a distance of 130 mm in the case of a brick pipe passing through the chimney ceiling to protect the wood. But given that in most cases metal pipes are used in baths, you need to focus on the following standards:

It is necessary to maintain a distance greater than 380 mm from flammable objects protected by insulation;
The minimum distance to flammable objects without insulation must be more than 500 mm.

AT this case these distances must be ensured before the pipeline comes into contact with the tree.

Ideally, these distances would not be closed at all, but this option will contribute to increased heat loss, which is economically unprofitable. Therefore, the specified volume is closed with non-combustible materials.

The maximum length of the pipe passing through the ceiling in the bath should not exceed 1000 mm. The chimney cannot be fixed on the roof in a rigid way, because when the temperature changes, the pipe may change slightly in size, which can lead to deformation of the ceiling.

In the bath, pipes of a special design, called "sandwich", are often used. They are two pipes. different diameter, one of which is inside the other. The space between them is filled with a layer of insulation. Not many people know that the outer part of such a structure has almost the same temperature as inner part chimney.

Need to know! The main purpose of such a device is to provide normal traction, and not at all to improve fire-fighting properties.

Often the owners, in order to accelerate the heating of the bath, allow the stove to overheat. If the temperatures of the outer part of the pipe exceed the allowable values of 400 ºС, then this threatens to fail the outer part of the sandwich, which will lead to a fire hazard. Therefore, in no case should the distance between the pipe and surrounding objects be reduced.

The distance to combustible structures in the case of brick or concrete pipes must be at least 13 cm. For ceramic pipes not equipped with insulation, the corresponding distance will be more than 25 cm, for pipes with insulation - 13 cm.

It is advisable to lay these parameters at the design stage of the bath, since the step when installing floor beams is usually not large. If it is 60 cm, then it will be possible to use only insulated pipes.

The diameter of the outlet part of the pipe is often 11.5 - 12 cm. If a 10 cm thick insulation is used in a sandwich, then we get a diameter of the outer part of 31.5 - 32 cm. Add the distance recommended for insulated structures of 13 cm on each side, we get a width of 57, 5 cm. That is, this design fits perfectly into the existing distance between the beams of 60 cm.

Now let's see what distance between the beams should be when using an uninsulated chimney. If the inner diameter is 11.5 mm, then we add to it the distance required by safety rules on all sides of 25 cm, we get 61.5 cm. The result obtained does not fit into the existing distance between the beams. Moreover, the diameter of the pipe can be even larger, and then the discrepancy between the size of the chimney and the pitch of the beams becomes even more noticeable.

Advice! In the instructions for stoves, manufacturers usually indicate the minimum distance required for the chimney to pass through a ceiling made of various materials. When constructing a chimney, use these values.

fire protection

So, what is the best insulating material to use for thermal protection, constructing a chimney passage through the ceiling with your own hands?

Mineral wool. It retains its properties up to 300 º C. Higher temperatures (up to 1000 º C) can withstand rigid mineral wool PZH - 175. The disadvantage is the release of formaldehyde, which can be harmful to health. Also insufficiently resistant to water;
Expanded clay. Tolerates wetness well. The disadvantage is the need to build additional tanks for its placement;
Basalt cardboard. Environmentally friendly. A 5 mm thick sheet can withstand temperatures up to 900 ºС;
Asbestos. Works great for fire retardation, but still emits harmful substances. Therefore, if it is used for a chimney, it is necessary to isolate the room from it using metal sheets;
Minerite. Able to withstand heating up to 600 ºС, without being destroyed by water and being an absolutely environmentally friendly material.

Basalt cardboard in action. Excellent fire protection.

Some experts still use sand or clay for thermal insulation, but this method is gradually becoming a thing of the past.

There are several other ways to reduce the risk of fire.

Construction on the chimney of the water jacket. This will require a remote tank. It will also be necessary to bring cold water. But the emerging hot water can be used in the shower or for heating. On the other hand, temperatures above the water jacket will decrease significantly, which will reduce the likelihood of pipe burnout;
It is possible to place a water tank above the stove, which will also protect the chimney from excessive heating. But with this method, you will have to constantly ensure that the water in the tank does not boil and pour cold water in time;
Lay stones on the pipe. You will need support to redistribute their mass.

Using all these methods, it is possible to achieve a decrease in temperature in the installed passage, which will significantly increase fire safety.

To increase the fire safety in the bath, you can use materials such as glass-magnesium sheets and fire-resistant drywall sheets. They are used by closing the ceilings themselves and the openings in them through which the chimney passes. Only Premium class sheets marked "NG" are suitable as fire protection. If there is no such marking, then such products cannot be used for fire protection.

Overhead crossing construction

Consider how to make a chimney in the bath through the ceiling. This can be done in two ways.

Use ready-made cutting;
Mount the pass-through node with your own hands.

Application of ready cutting

In order to fully protect the roof elements from the effects of high temperatures that occur when combustion products pass through the chimney, and at the same time fix the pipe in the required position, the so-called ceiling cutting is used.

To build a chimney passage through the ceiling, it is necessary to purchase a chimney pass-through ceiling unit in hardware store. It is a box made of mineralite or metal connected to a stainless steel plate. In the center of the structure there is a hole in which the sandwich is placed. Such a device performs, among other things, also a decorative function. A plate attached to it closes the ceiling opening, giving it a more aesthetic appearance. In addition, a heater rests on this plate, which fills the space between the floor elements and the pipe.

They are of two types:

- with insulation, looking like two plates in combination with an insulated pipe;

- without insulation, which is a box made of metal, which is to be filled insulating materials with his own hands and a hole designed for installing pipes.

Sections come in different shapes. Sometimes they look like metal cylinder, in this case, the plate significantly exceeds it in size. If such a device is used and the ceiling opening has square shape, it is still necessary to comply with all the listed parameters required to ensure the fire safety of the structure. At the same time, it is necessary to strengthen the protection wooden structures baths with strips of metal.

Installation of the finished adapter

Cut a hole in the ceiling dimensions cutting;
If necessary, carry out insulation;
Install the chimney pass-through assembly into the ceiling;
Bring the pipe to the ceiling, while its length should be 100-150 mm less than the height;
Attach the pipe section located on top of the roof;
Seal all joints that have arisen during the passage of the chimney through the wooden floor.

Installing an adapter made by hand

It is possible to carry out a chimney through the ceiling in the bath without factory nodes.

Consider how to make a ceiling passage node with your own hands. This will require:

- chimney pipe;

- the material chosen for thermal insulation of the pipe passage through the ceiling of the bath;

- metal plates.

The pipe in the bath through the ceiling and roof is installed following the recommendations described below.

Cut a hole in the ceiling that exceeds the size of the pipe by 13-18 mm;
One edge of the pipe is brought into the hole made;
From inside the room, a plate is superimposed on the ceiling;
The chimney passage through the ceiling is insulated. Optimal is the manufacture of thermal insulation ceiling through node from minerite.
The space remaining between the ceiling and the plate must also be filled with a layer of insulation.
The plate is attached with self-tapping screws.

When considering how to install a pipe in a bath through the ceiling, be sure to pay attention to such an important factor as the choice suitable place for the passage of the ceiling for the chimney.

The main function of the adapter is fire protection

It can be installed either directly on the ridge, while providing good traction and no accumulation of precipitation; or next to the skate.

Attention! Never install a chimney where the roof slopes meet.

Do-it-yourself chimney cutting will take a little longer than purchased from a store, but it will help save money that is so necessary during construction.

When installing the cutting in the ceiling - roofing, craftsmen often face such difficulty as the need to make the chimney in the bath through the ceiling strictly vertically, while placing it in the center of the passage. To do this, we can recommend using a plumb line. It is lifted up and lowered into the center of the chimney. This point is marked on the ceiling and used as an appropriate mark before making the passage of the pipe through the ceiling of the bath.

Rules for passing through the ceiling

Before you run the chimney through a wooden floor, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules for installing a do-it-yourself ceiling pass-through assembly for a chimney.

At the outlet of the furnace, only metal pipe with thick walls without thermal insulation. This is due to the fact that in this place the temperatures reach such values that mineral materials cannot withstand.
The pipe in the bath through the ceiling and roof is surrounded by insulating material.

In places where the pipe is held in the bath through the ceiling, joints are not allowed at the intersection of the ceilings. They are possible either below or above them;
The horizontal section should not exceed 1m;
The maximum number of knees during the passage of the chimney in the bath through the ceiling is three;
The passage of the pipe through the ceiling in the bath is not allowed to be fixed in a rigid way.

Joint insulation

When constructing a pipe cutting on the bath ceiling, they use sealants that ensure the strength of the joints and withstand high temperatures.

The clamps used in the construction must be made of the same material as the chimney itself.

Careful processing of the passage of the pipe through the roof is very important. Otherwise, the following consequences are possible:

- the penetration of moisture into the chimney can lead to a gradual destruction of the structure, which will result in the penetration of smoke between the roof and the ceiling, and therefore increase the risk of fire;

- liquid constantly accumulating inside the chimney can lead to the formation of fungus and rust;

- violation of tightness can lead to an increase in heat loss;

- Water ingress into the roof can lead to rotting of the truss structure.

For additional protection from water ingress, special "aprons" are used. They are different: made of metal and due to this they are rigidly adjacent to the roof; pre-built into the sheet used to cover the roof; flexible, made of plastic materials - rubber or silicone. The size of these aprons must be chosen, taking into account the diameter of the chimney pipe.

Therefore, the sealing of all joints is the final, but at the same time an extremely important point in bringing the chimney out.

Installation of a chimney in a sandwich pipe bath is the most best option metal chimney. This small and compact structure is almost indispensable in conditions where, in the original plan, there is no smoke exhaust device in the dwelling.

It is not difficult to implement this installation idea. All that is needed is to fasten the main parts and auxiliary elements in the correct sequence.

At the same time, some nuances must also be taken into account. this device. Without them, it is impossible to correctly complete a solid and sealed structure. And the structure looks like this:

Sandwich - structures formed from three layers got their name from the easy suggestion of a famous resident of England. Chimneys in a bath with this name are no exception.

Distinctive feature of these pipes lies in the fact that between the metal circuit on the outside and the same circuit in the middle they have insulating layer. Usually it is made of basalt materials.

Additional elements for installation:

a pipe equipped with a revision;
brackets and other parts:

This kit helps to ensure the proper functioning of the flue system.

Sandwich chimney in the bath has a number of advantages.

The contour inside the sandwich pipe well tolerates heating to high temperatures and the influence of condensate.
Design features create obstacles for the penetration of water on the insulation.
The desired thrust limit is created, and the gases are rarefied.

The contour inside these materials, and this option, as you know, has high anti-corrosion properties. Setting the goal of savings, the outer contour is often made of less resistant galvanized material.

Thus, the consumer faces the problem of choosing a material: to prefer a long-serving stainless steel or an option that allows you to save some money.

IMPORTANT! The material for the sandwich pipe inside is selected taking into account its ability to withstand high temperatures. And the product for the outer contour must be made of a rigid material, otherwise its configuration cannot remain unchanged.

Also during installation are used:

Brackets on the wall to hold the building.
Revision, consisting of a window for cleaning, this also includes a stand.
Adapter kit.
Tees.
Knees that make it possible to change the direction of the structure by 45 degrees or at a right angle.
Clamps for fastening separate parts.
unloading platform. It allows you to accurately calculate the mass of the structure and remove the load from its base.
, rosette and comfrey.

Installation and assembly

Installation of a sandwich chimney in a bath is the most simple view network laying for the removal of combustion products. Small, lightweight building elements can be easily assembled using auxiliary elements.

Before building such a structure, the following requirements should be considered:

The most suitable length from the stove to the fungus on the roof is 5 meters.

The pipe is placed vertically, without making ledges. The deviation from the vertical is allowed at thirty degrees, and the maximum deviation to the side is one meter.

Provided that the distance from the roof to the head of the structure exceeds one and a half meters, it is necessary to install a stretch in order to fix it.

If combustible materials are laid on the roof, then a grid must be installed at the end of the smoke exhaust structure - a spark arrester, the cells of such a device should be 0.5x0.5 cm. On a flat type roof, the chimney above its level is raised above one meter.

The horizontal part of the chimney must not exceed a distance of more than one meter.

The places where the elements are joined must be left in sight. They must not be left inside the roof slab.

Such a chimney in the bath is very easy to assemble, this is done according to the principle of the designer. One end of one part is “sit down” in the next part:

To do this, the volume of each element from one edge is slightly larger than the reciprocal volume on its other side. Clamps increase the reliability of such connections.

Correct installation systems in the bath is not possible without the correct assembly of the structure. It should begin with fixing to the sandwich pipe of the bath oven.

Such work involves the use of a starting cone. One end of it is "sit" on the furnace pipe, and the other is connected to the direct section of the structure.

Often the chimney in the bath room is simple design, consisting of a pipe going from the stove to the street. They pass through the roof and ceiling with a small number of turns and accessories.

Output through the ceiling

Installation of the chimney in the bath through the ceiling is performed as follows. To exit to ceiling covering arrange a special assembly that creates reliable fasteners and high fire safety:

Despite the fact that such a pipe is a two-layer structure with non-flammable thermal insulation in the middle, to increase the level of safety in the ceiling opening for the chimney, a hole is made for mounting a small branch pipe, which is 15-20 cm larger in diameter than the diameter of the chimney.

From the bottom, such a hole is closed steel sheet. The part that ends up in the attic is filled with non-combustible material. For this you can take:

basalt wool;
sand;
expanded clay.

The insulation prevents the formation a large number condensate in a sandwich, which is added benefit.

How you can do it yourself is described below.

For insulation, you will need two rectangular pieces of galvanized steel, which are rolled into a cylindrical shape.
Wrap the bottom tube insulation material. A larger pipe is put on top and connected by rolling.
A collar cut from a sheet of iron should have a width of 20 cm; in length, it must be equal to the length of the coated part of the pipe. The chimney is fastened to them from above and below.
Manufactured pipes are connected according to the scheme.

This simple installation scheme for sandwich structures can be used both during the first construction of the smoke wire constructor, and when replacing its parts when it burns out over time.

Sandwich technology is quite simple in terms of its design and practically does not require special skills.

How to make a hat on your own

To protect the sandwich chimney, it is necessary to equip the exit paths with a special cap. This will help to avoid changing the kiln system in the coming years.

Video: we make a weather vane + cap + chimney with our own hands

In addition, in our time, the material for such a design is not difficult to find. Focusing on the drawings, which are given as an example of work, you can quickly and easily complete all the steps by analogy on your own.

Sequence at work

The cap can have different shapes, among which the most common are bent, cone-shaped and flat round, square or rectangular surfaces.

To install the cap rectangular shape Please refer to the diagram below.

Stainless steel metal sheet (galvanization, copper and zinc alloys with metal can be used).

Tools for work.
Gloves.
Flygarka.

In order to make a cap yourself for the first time, it is better to first practice on cardboard paper. Having built one or two such blanks, you will clearly understand the manufacturing process.

Video: Do-it-yourself cap

In addition, on their basis, you can make drawings on the front side of the metal sheet, circling the cardboard along the contour. It is also necessary to draw on it all the lines that will be used for bends.

In the center of the pattern on a galvanized sheet, drill a narrow hole with a diameter of 3-4 mm. The excess is trimmed with scissors for metal.

With the help of a sheet bender, it is necessary to gradually bend all the parts in such a way that it turns out desired shape.

If this device is not available, you can do this with the help of improvised tools. At the same time, try not to leave dents on the cap.

An edge 1 cm wide is bent inward at an angle of 45 degrees. In order not to get discrepancies in the corners, you need to start with them, gradually moving towards the middle.

Now it's worth checking for evenness. To do this, you need to install an even thin stick under the center of the resulting figure and stick it into a bowl with the ground. When assembled correctly, there will be no overbalance in any direction.

After all the main corners are cleaned, processed, brought together and aligned, you need to fix the cap on the base. For this, the products are connected using a special construction adhesive.

From above, you can additionally decorate it with a weather vane that will spin and show the direction of the wind. In order not to miss anything, use the attached video tutorial "How to make a hat with your own hands."

Final actions

At this stage, the chimney is attached to an adjustable apron and the chimney structure is built up to required dimensions.

Installation of a chimney in a sandwich pipe bath will be performed correctly if the ratio of its diameter, height and volume is correctly calculated. In this case, the type of stove and its power are also important. The possibility of traction and how well it will function directly depend on these factors.

Chimneys in a Russian bath classical type, must be built fireproof, not contain many turns and bends. All your actions must be subordinated to the recommendations of professionals, and a warm heart bath room will work very smoothly long time.

If there are “ambiguities” in the calculations, then you should seek the advice of professionals. The money spent on this is fully compensated by an excellently functioning smoke-exhausting sandwich device, and therefore your good health.

Entries

In a private house or in a bath with furnace heating there is always an increased risk of fire due to the close proximity of the heat source to combustible materials. Therefore, the installation of stoves and fireplaces and, in particular, internal chimneys provides for compliance with fire safety rules established in SNiP. Most dangerous area furnace heating system in the house is the place where the chimney pipe passes through the ceiling, ceiling and truss system roofs. Since the chimney pipe becomes very hot when smoke and gases pass through it, if combustible materials are close, they can ignite and cause a fire. You can avoid a dangerous situation by observing the requirements for the installation of the chimney and using special ceiling-through units.

The ceiling-through unit is a protective box that is installed in a provided or specially cut hole in the ceiling and roofing cake. Inside the box there is a hole through which the chimney pipe is brought out. The main task of the protective ceiling-through unit is to isolate the chimney, preventing it from coming into contact with combustibles. roofing materials or heat them to dangerous values.

Ceiling ducts can be purchased from ready-made or make it yourself in accordance with SNiP and fire safety standards. Finished goods- the best option, because their design already provides opportunities for thermal insulation of the chimney. For installation, it is enough to choose a box that matches the size and geometry of the chimney.

Important! Before installation in the ceiling, the node must be isolated heat-insulating material. Basalt mineral wool and foil screens are best suited for this purpose, which withstand high temperatures and are characterized by low thermal conductivity.

Regulatory requirements and fire safety rules

The exact requirements and figures governing the rules for installing a chimney and its passage through the roof-rafter system are contained in SNiP 41-01-2003, namely, in section 6.6. Key condition, which determine the safety of the chimney pipe wire through the roof - the maximum heating temperature of the surrounding structures and materials should not exceed 50 ° C.

Whatever the size of the bath and whatever it is heated, for the safety and comfort of people using the bath, it is important to properly equip the smoke exhaust system. Bath chimney has a simple design, but during its construction it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the materials used, the heating unit and structural elements buildings.

The furnace or boiler is an important part bath complex, which can be located directly in the steam room or output to the boiler room.

A thermal appliance heats rooms, heats water and generates steam. A working heat generator, when burning fuel, releases a lot of toxic substances in addition to heat. Smoke in the room is not just uncomfortable, the smoke, combined with the usual temperature and humidity for a steam room, can be deadly.

In order to be comfortable and safe in the bath, it is necessary reliable system smoke removal.

The correct chimney removes the products of combustion and supports the combustion of fuel in the furnace or boiler. In this case, the smoke exhaust structure for furnaces and boilers can be internal or external. The external chimney is diverted away from the heating unit, passes through the wall and lines up vertically. Internal - from the heat generating device immediately goes up and is brought out through the ceiling and roof.

Both chimneys have a similar design:

starting node connecting the branch pipe of the thermal unit with the chimney;
chimney;
passage elements to ensure fire safety when the pipe crosses the structural elements of the building;
shaft or outer casing, creating a barrier between chimney and the external environment;
chimney top - an umbrella, a deflector or a smoke exhauster to improve draft and protect the pipe from clogging.

Note! If the smoke exhaust system has corners, it is necessary to equip revision nodes at the turning points - tees with a drip and a window.

An external chimney is mounted much easier, but is used only in small spaces, since its interior takes up little space. The internal chimney, although it eats up a significant part usable space, is better suited for a bath, as it is an additional source of heat, which means it allows you to use fuel more efficiently.

Types of chimneys

Smoke exhaust structures, both external and internal, can be made of various materials and their combinations:

Note! Steel sandwich pipes are lightweight and do not require foundation equipment. However, a sandwich that combines an outer steel casing with an inner ceramic pipe, much heavier and a chimney from such sections without a foundation is not built.